Sitting on mine on my way to Maine. Just had a delightful sail under spinnaker
all the way up Buzzards Bay. I was asked to write an article for sail magazine
on my ideal cruising boat; I ended up describing the C&C 40 almost to a tee.
(Before I bought this one.)
The short answer is, I love the b
Was looking to see if anyone in the list had any experience (good or
bad) with this particular boat model.
The engine access looks like it is a bit of a challenge. Similar to LF38.
The stairs into the cabin are fairly steep and it is a long way down.
Anyhow, any feedback is appreciated.
--
Don
I'm a big fan of the Pardey's Storm Tactics. I went back and reread the
chapters on heaving to now, and it looks like I did the maneuver right
(from running, round quickly to wind, to minimize time you're beam on to
the seas; pages 56-57), but probably had too much foresail up.
They have a Q&A at
Maybe I'm careless but i wouldn't hesitate to go up with those 2 shrouds
missing. If you wanted minimize the risk do one at a time and go up on the
side opposite of the remaining shroud.
I have always chalked that bend in the rod up to the fact that those
shrouds have to make a more acute interfa
Dave,
That definitely looks like a ball and socket that is not aligned properly. I
would remove the tension from both shrouds, then clean and lubricate both ball
and socket joints. Some 220 sandpaper would work. There may be some corrosion
between the stainless ball and the socket. Lubri
Here's another pic that show the un-straightness of the lead into the sockets
of the lower intermediate shrouds.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5rt7uwrhyervfn9/20150814_161547.jpg?dl=0
It's definitely not just that it's not tight - those shrouds actually have a
fair bit of tension on them.
I'm hopi
Really need a picture. Can you post one on a server? I had similar on my 34+,
fine line between perfectly fine and a problem. Is there a good local rigger to
talk to?
John
Sent from my iPad
> On Aug 14, 2015, at 6:09 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Something's up wit
I've often single-handed and consider heaving-to an essential tool. On my boat
I can reef the main while hove-to. If the wind is already strong it can take a
bit of tweaking to balance the sails.
One lister seemed to indicate that he can heave-to with foresail alone, this I
don't understand si
Something's up with the ball and socket. They should be perfectly
straight. The bend is very slight that should not be a problem. It'll
straighten right up once you free up the joint and put some tension on it.
Should be fine with loosening them up. Just to be on safe side you might
want
<< They both appear to take a very slight bend in the last 4" or so. No
kink or anything, Â just a slight bend. Is this right, or is there a
potential problem with the toggles in the mast?>>
I dont have rod rigging, but I do know wire, and that is not good.
It looks like it is not very tight,
My 35 Mk 1 heaves to quite well. I made lunch that way once. Joe
Coquina
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 14, 2015, at 13:26, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hi Dave,
>
> You are correct, there's no additional purchase on the outhaul (There should
> be)and the 2 additional sh
No sure what types of boat you're looking for but if you are looking for small
boats, You should check out Key West Community Sailing Center
(http://keywestsailingcenter.com/). We were there two years ago. They have a
fleet of Odays and some other small boats including Hobie Cats. The membership
Looks like mine.
I wouldn't hesitate to disconnect them. Count the turns and have
anti-seeze available during reassembly.
Josh
On Aug 14, 2015 2:42 PM, "davepulaski via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Here's my next ultra-paranoid new owner question:
>
> So, looking up at my rig from the deck at where the
Here's my next ultra-paranoid new owner question:
So, looking up at my rig from the deck at where the lower intermediate shrouds
enter the attachment point to the mast, they do not appear to make a perfectly
straight lead right into the socket.
They both appear to take a very slight bend in th
I've straightened lifeline stanchions by placing a short lengh of 1/2" or 3/4"
pipe in a vise. I then put the stanchion over that pipe and gently bend it
straight.
The little support tubes are easier and I think I placed them between two wood
scraps in a vise and bent them straight using a shor
Hi Dave,
You are correct, there's no additional purchase on the outhaul (There
should be)and the 2 additional sheaves are for reefing.
--> First - outhaul. ?There is a length of SS wire with a thimble at
either end that runs over the middle sheave at the aft end of the boom and
is just coile
Sounds like you have the reefing and outhaul figured out and would be the same
as mine. Not sure what the light line to masthead is – don’t have a topping
lift on mine (1990 34+ hull 15). Cheers
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of davepulaski
via CnC-List
Sent:
We are looking to charter a boat out of the Miami/Keys area October 10-13.
Any recommendations on who to contact/who to avoid? Trying not to break
the bank!
--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Fred and Andy,
I have only attempted to hove to once with the LF38 and I did not pay much
attention since I was more interested in lunch at the time.
On my 29mk1, I played around quite a bit. I found that I could get the 29 to
properly heave to with many tweaks but mostly by rolling in t
Fred's right. Larry Pardey describes it as a slick that helps mitigate the
waves breaking over the boat. His Storm Tactics is an excellent read.
Bear in mind that heaving to isn't just for storms or reefing. if we want
to have a nice sit down dinner, even in light airs, we will heave to. And
remind
Shark stuff is on my todo list. I have the same happen all the time. I made
it a point to shut off pressure domestic water while motoring.
But my setup is a bit unusual and not per recommendation of Seaward,
manufacturer of my hot water tank. Although it works very well.
I have conver
Works with copper, pex, and the old grey PB (qest, polybutyl) pipe.
Josh
On Aug 14, 2015 9:35 AM, "Josh Muckley" wrote:
> If I had to pick, I would use flair-it fittings. I found one installed
> from the previous owner and it was a pleasure to disconnect and reconnect.
> They are also very cost
Paul — from Sail Online:
> When a sailboat is set in a heave to position, she slows down considerably
> and keeps moving forward at about 1 to 2 kts, but with a significant amount
> of drift. The drift creates some turbulence on the water, and that
> disturbance decreases significantly the sea
If I had to pick, I would use flair-it fittings. I found one installed
from the previous owner and it was a pleasure to disconnect and reconnect.
They are also very cost effective and lightweight.
http://mobilehomepartsstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=CF
Josh Muckley
S/
shark bite connectors and pex tubing have worked extremely well in my house
for the last 8 years...not a single leak problem and I have well over 100
sharkbite connections in the system...pex should be great for potable water
on a boat too
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret'
yes I have the st 60 pack wind, speed and depth all tied together by
seatalk...the old system seems very simple but the algorithms used to
resolve the input vectors seem to give good numbers considering that
calibrating boat speed readings to be accurate on both tacks goes...I have
checked my winds
As I understand it, if your trying to heave to and your moving forward then
your either in a current or actually forereaching.
-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL
> On Aug 14, 2015, at 12:32 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> My understanding is that w
Gary,
I have a 3GM30F and Section 4.2 of the GM Series Service Manual says the fresh
water enters the cooling tube cover through a hole drilled at one end of the
cooling tube, circulates around the ~24 raw water tubes inside the cooling
tube, then exits through a hole at the other end of the
now that I'm missing one paddle on my speed transducer, true wind speed is
skewed rather dramatically depending on whether I am going to weather or
running because of how it in interpolates the direction you're going with the
wind speed. You will be happy you went with the speed transducer
Sounds like you have the reefing rigured out. There is a convention for
the first reef on the right and the second reef on the left. Only thing is
to tie the reef line to the boom with a bowline on a bite
I don't know how long your outhaul cable is but mine doesn't come out the
forward end of th
So my new-to-me 34+ is now in the water and I'm working on getting everything
sorted out. I'm at a bit of disadvantage since the boat was out of the water
with the rig down when I bought her, so I've never actually seen her rigged
and rig is considerably different than my previous 28'er.
My q
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