Me too!
Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660
> On Jan 15, 2018, at 6:54 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2018 02:44:33 +
> From: Josh Muckley
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re:
Joel,
Why not butyl tape? (I am not questioning; just asking). In fact, I put some
butyl tape there. I wrapped it around the cables in a cone shape, completely
dealing the hole. Then I put the pedestal guard over it. It is not leaking for
3 years.
Marek
Sent from
Agree.
Touche' has different but functionally equivalent pedestal guard. I just
lifted up the guard, sealed the hole in the deck with clear LifeSeal and
replaced the guard. Creates a bit of an issue if you need to pull new or
remove old cables but not a dealbreaker. Just have to lift the
Hey guys I fixed the subject line
I too have a Max-Prop and am fond of it though I have little experience
with alternatives. I service mine every year by replacing the zinc and
greasing it per the manufacturer's instructions.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mon, Jan 15,
I would use something like lifeseal rather than butyl.
Joel
On Mon, Jan 15, 2018 at 9:30 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hi Josh,
>
> Here's a link to the exterior view of the pedestal guard feet.
>
Curious...how often do you service your maxprop?Jim schwartz 38lfSEA
YA!washington nc
Original message From: Chuck S via CnC-List
Date: 1/15/18 9:23 PM (GMT-05:00) To:
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck S , Ted Drossos
Hi Josh,
Here's a link to the exterior view of the pedestal guard feet.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0
You can see the tape which is currently keeping out most of the water. I
suspect the remaining water is getting in between the foot and the teak
I noticed 15 years ago that every sailboat in every boatyard that races has a
folding or feathering prop. Half of the cruisers have em too. I enjoy my two
blade MaxProp. I followed the dealer's advice and set it up myself to his
specs. The second year I made an adjustment to get a higher
Hi Ted,
While it is true the original poster did not like their J Prop at all, they
did not state why except to say they lost 2 knots over the fixed prop they
had replaced. That indicates to me they did not know how to properly
adjust the pitch of their prop, which is odd, as it is so simple to
Hi Bill,
Years ago I read in a Sailing Anarchy thread there was a C named Fastrack
at the RCYC (i.e. Royal Canadian Yacht Club in Toronto, Ontario). I always
assumed that was just a typo as the C 37R Fastrack I was aware of was
based out of the RVYC (Royal
Vancouver Yacht Club).
There are (or
Bruce,
Are you saying that the wires come through the pedestal guard tube? And
exit through the deck via the gaurd tube foot? A picture might help.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mon, Jan 15, 2018, 5:02 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
Hello all,
We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and we are replacing the stern and v berth mattress
foam and fabric. I have noticed a very small leak which is coming from the
starboard pedestal guard foot, where the bolts and wires penetrate the cockpit
floor. We have stopped the vast majority of the
Josh,
Depends on the material used (i.e., Snap-on vs. Harbor Freight).
Assuming the extension is made from a quality alloy steel such as 4130,
the shear stress at 350 ft-lb would be about 32 ksi (help stamp out
metric in my lifetime). This assumes the extension diameter is 7/8 so
that they
"Anybody wanna venture what the typical torque limits are on a 3/4 drive
extension?"
I don't know that for sure but the micrometer adjustable torque wrench I
borrow from the Heavy Equipment Mechanics is 3/4" drive and it goes a lot
higher than 600lbs. torque.
Ken H.
On Monday, 15 January 2018,
I thought about that too Bill, but a 3/4 output drive is going to be
limited to the given socket and quality there of. That's why I assume the
input is always smaller than the output (1/2 to 3/4) or (3/4 to 1).
Anybody wanna venture what the typical torque limits are on a 3/4 drive
extension?
Could it be that manufacturer of multiplier fears that the extension will not
be of sufficient quality/strength to transfer the torque developed by
multiplier?
Bill Walker
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with
Josh,
I agree with your assessment of why they recommend against extensions.
I used to use a 4:1 multiplier to torque fuse bolts on bomb bodies (650
foot-lb). It is a true challenge to support the multiplier without an
extension. With an extension, I strongly agree with using a support.
Thanks Rick,
Sounds like a similar concern to having the extension shaft come out of
alignment.
Still a tough choice between the lesser of two evils. No reaction bar,
down in the hole to avoid drive extensions. Or use extensions to get the
assembly out of the hole and allow using a reaction
This is the best explanation I could find.
Do not use output drive extensions. Increased deflections,
caused by the added length could force the socket off the
nut, or break the extension or socket.
Some other sites state to use a single or double sided reaction bar if you have
to use
Josh,
A quick Google search for "using extension with torque multiplier" shows
the most common use of "extension" as an extension of the handle of a
torque wrench, not an extension between the multiplier and socket.
Most of the hits were how to calculate the added torque from extending the
Yeah Johh, my thinking is that that is the biggest concern anytime an
extension or adapter is being used. The further off axis the head of the
wrench the more inaccurate the torque being applied. A more purposeful
statement to that effect in the multiplier instructions would have been
nice.
On the 27- mik III I just make sure the extension stays vertical. Not dealing
with that much torque.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 15, 2018, at 10:44 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
> wrote:
Hopefully, I'm visualizing the situation correctly. The
Dennis, I'm totally in agreement with your thinking and think you are
envisioning it correctly but I just wanted to check with the collective
wisdom. I wish the multiplier had expounded on their "do not use
extensions" warning.
Josh
On Jan 15, 2018 9:44 AM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"
Hopefully, I'm visualizing the situation correctly. The configuration I
see is the socket on the nut, an extension of X inches held by a bushing
several inches above the socket, then the multiplier on top of the
extension.
I just don't see a difference for the multiplier if the extension is held
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