IIRC, at least on my 36 XL, the toe rail bolts also hold the deck to the hull
at the hull-deck joint.
I had an old water leak from a collision 15 years ago repaired this past
summer. The leak was at about 6 ft aft of the bow on the starboard side. The
fix was to undo the toe rail and bolts
Don't do it. Don't rebed it. Don't cut it.
I use pieces of cotton oil lamp wick to wick the water over the side.
Minimizes the puddle and minimizes the streaks down the topsides.
Try that first and see if it works for you. Won't completely eliminate the
issue but should reduce it quite a bit.
Christian,
Water pooling on the side decks is an issue, along with the black streaks that
seem to radiate from the toe rail. I have seen others use small pieces of
sponge or cotton rope to let the water wick over the side. I would certainly
try this before cutting into the toe rail. Give
Good call. I considered that but the location of the chock is so close to
the bottom and the contour is from the bottom. I don't know exactly how
much it is tapered but its not extreme.
Josh
On Feb 10, 2018 3:20 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Josh,
>
>
>
>
Hello everybody,
I am going to rebed my deck hardware. When I do I'm thinking of rebedding
the toe rail. Has anybody cut drain points into it so the water drains out.
I was even thinking of cutting 1/8" plastic strips and in a couple of
places "Lifting up" the toe rail to create a path for the
If you have a tapered mast on a 37R, or 37 XL it only seems to taper above
the upper spreader. Offshore Spar built those masts. I'm not sure if the
37+ mast was tapered at all, and I don't know who built those masts.
Ken H.
On 10 February 2018 at 16:19, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
Mark, you want cast and 3/8". The first time mine were done the 'expert' used
1/4 which I did not know until I had both crack after just 3 years. He did not
polish or bevel the edges either and did a lot of damage to the opening.
When we re did them I got the windows made at SOUTHSHORE as
Josh,
Did you say the mast is pulled? Can you trace the curvature at the step end? If
the mast extrusion is tapered, this won’t work.
Marek
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2018 19:20
To: C List
The only thing can add (after doing 10 windows) is that the surface need to be
flat and smooth, install and seal out of direct sunlight, minimum 3/16 gap for
sealing, slight bevel on both sides of plexi ( more on tape side) outside just
enough to remove sharp edge, and when sealing push sealant
To clean and kill any mold on wood in the boat I’ve always used a 50/50 water
and vinegar mix. Has worked well for me.
Cheers
James.
C 35 Mk1
- Original Message -
From: David Castor via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Castor
On 5/19/18 my 1st mate Steve will be away. This is the Herring Bay to
Bloody Point race on the Chesapeake Bay - across the bay and back. This is
an Herrington Harbour Sailing Association club race (HHSA). HHSA requires
two on an individual boat.
I am looking for a commitment for at least 1 to
In Good Old Boat, Don Casey recommends cleaning interior teak using a
mixture of liquid laundry soap, bleach and water. 1 cup of soap and bleach
per gallon of water, but stronger if necessary. I've done this on some of
my boat's interior. You have to let the solution soak for 15 to 30
minutes,
All the posts about exterior teak have got me thinking about redoing my cabin
teak.
(I am fortunate that my 1995 36 C XL/kcb has no exterior teak!)
My interior teak, however, is extensive and never varnished although I did
'oil' it once or twice in the 20+ years of ownership.
Some of it has
If you don't have a fancy contour guage or tool, use a length of solder.
Dennis C.
On Feb 9, 2018 7:28 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List"
wrote:
Or use a contour gauge and trace the shape. Then cut it to shape
On Fri, Feb 9, 2018 at 9:18 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List
Neat trick!
In my case I actually have access to the bottom of the mast to get the
contour.
Josh
On Sat, Feb 10, 2018, 9:24 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> A carpenters trick is to;
>
> - place the teak against the mast
> - gauge the widest gap between the
A carpenters trick is to;
- place the teak against the mast
- gauge the widest gap between the teak and the mast (outer edge)
- wrap tape around a pencil same amount as gap (This will give you the widest
point)
- hold teak against mast, and trace the pencil (with tape) along the mast
starting
I store my whisker pole vertically on the mast and have never felt the need for
a chock for the bottom end. The weight of the pole, slight spring of the
sections, plus the curvature of the mast base keeps it quite securely in place.
Dave
> On Feb 10, 2018, at 1:17 AM, Tom Buscaglia via
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