Yes, most small, naturally aspirated diesels like ours have their max HP
near their maximum rated RPM, assuming air, fuel and other factors are as
designed. They may be capable of higher output beyond the rated max RPM,
but only for a short time, as most marine and industrial engines are tuned
for
Will:
I am not familiar with the A/C unit you are considering but if it is a
removable unit (when you are sailing) you will also need a place to store it
onboard. A built-in unit will eliminate this need too. I would also think
that a water-cooled A/ C would be smaller in volume. I am a
When I look at my engine's manual, it gives a graph of horsepower to RPM.
The way I see it, the 2 are more or less directly related. If you are
unable to reach max RPM then you are by default also unable to reach max
horsepower.
Alternator output current is also a function of RPM. Lower RPM =
Thank you for the wisdom. And pics. No mat with epoxy?
Love me those Frers 33s. Looked at a few before Hideaway. Tried to make an
offer on one near home and couldn’t get through to owner. C’est la vie.
Jon
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this
I have been toying with the idea of configuring a hatch-mounted “portable” AC
unit for the dock only — small enough to remove when heading out. I’m
interested in following your project. What kind of hatch is on your 41?
(Atkins & Hoyle?). I have a friend with a 41 and will pass along your
Will,
Most, if not all, the negative comments are directed at the CruisAir
portable units. You're talking about the Coleman Roughneck AC unit.
That's got quite a bit more BTU cooling than the small CruisAir portables.
Give it a shot. Let us know how it works.
Just make sure you've got
An installed marine AC is sooo much better than the portable hatch units.
When I bought Touche' in 1999 it had a water cooled box air conditioner in
the hanging locker. I quickly replaced it with a Mermaid 16 KBTU AC/heat
unit. That worked well until the water intake got plugged and the poorly
Still looking for help with our actual need: opening the space where our
v-berth hatch is!
Regarding comments, the roughneck unit is designed for harsh use, is marine
grade, 13,500 btu and ratings over 4.2 so I’m surprised folks think it is a
disaster already!
The unsaid background is this:
These bilge cleaner pad work well. Make sure there’s fresh water in the bilge
and periodically stir up the water to oxygenate.
The microbes will consume the oil leaving just fresh water that can be pumped
overboard.
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=2724413
Chuck Gilchrest
Sent from
I like to help new C'ers but it would really help if you would sign off with
your name, boat name, boat model, and homeport, so we can provide the best
advice, specific to your boat and location.
Not sure how to remove hinges from a foredeck hatch. I have one of those
hatchtop AC units, but
Two other points to consider, even if the new ratio allows you maintain
your cruising speed within a safe engine RPM:
1. You will be able to go slower while in gear at idle, which might be an
advantage. My speed at idle is a bit over 2 knots, which is a bit fast for
negotiating tight spaces, so I
Agreed. You’re not going to very happy with that option. Also, odds are it’s
not going to handling’s the marine environment well either.
Though more expensive, you’re going to best off installing a 16000 BTU (or
possibly a couple of unit) marine AC
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Captain
Love the List! Thank you.
Jon
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The other thing you might not to hear is those are not very good air
conditioners.
I would think about making a redneck AC with a window unit in the companionway.
Vastly cheaper and easier to store too.
Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Will Gerstmyer via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday,
A shop vac might come in handy also. Any oil/water collected can be poured
through an oil absorbent pad.
Dennis C.
On Thu, Jan 2, 2020 at 10:30 AM Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> A roll of paper towels and a bottle of Simple Green should to the trick
> unless you
Bob
Joy and I are of mixed minds here. I say none because we will be 1/3 of our
time at marinas, and she wants lots so our compromise is that we will air
condition the V-berth. If it does more, great, but not counting on it.
So I think we’re covered.
I spent 13 years in VA so I appreciate how
Will, you may not want to hear this, but unless you are located in Canada, the
small hatch mounted A/C will not be adequate to cool your C 40. I have a
Landfall 38 with onboard 16,000 Btu A/C and some extremely hot days In
Baltimore MD it works very hard. Before you make any more investment
Olivier,
Let me add a little info regarding the engine/gear/prop question.
Assuming a 19% higher gear ratio, if you can run the engine at 19%
higher RPM you will have identical performance of the prop/hull, as the
prop RPM will be the same. That means the power demanded by the prop is
Hi all, I’m new. Joy and I have a 1986 CNC 41.
We have bought a rooftop A/C unit that would fit over our V-berth hatch. My
problem is I can’t figure out how to either remove the hatch lid, or remove the
glass in the hatch lid in order to create the needed opening.
The hinges I thought I could
A roll of paper towels and a bottle of Simple Green should to the trick unless
you have a pool of oil, then two rolls will be better. Just did some of that
stuff.
Gary
30-1
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Bev Parslow via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2020 10:54 AM
To:
I have never heard of a bilge pump being damaged by any cleaner, but in
the interest of not pumping oil overboard I usually clean out all the
oil I can with rags before doing the bilge pump thing.
Joe
Coquina
On 1/2/2020 10:54 AM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List wrote:
Need to clean out an oily
Need to clean out an oily bilge. Can I use a normal degreaser, or will that
mess up the bilge pump? Any thoughts?___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support
By all means test it with your old prop. Too many RPMs is not harmful, going
the other way is for diesels. A good prop shop will be able to suggest the next
thing to try once you have the RPM info in hand.
In general a slower turning prop that is bigger/more pitch is a more pleasant
experience
Thank you for the comments!
I see that my understanding was basically correct. The shaft RPM will be
lower than before, and using a larger prop or a prop with greater pitch
would counter this difference.
I'll update you later if I end up using the transmission with a different
gear ratio. I
Hi Jon
This link shows core replacement on our former J27 "Nut Case". Similar
construction.
http://www.hoytsailing.com/J27Web/Projects/recore/recore.htm
We did not use the top skin since it was cracked and since the entire area was
to be repainted anyway. As others have said if you can
I had very good results with Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) about 18
years ago. I no longer own the boat but sailed it twice over the summer.
The 12 × 18 areas of rot are still solid. It won't help if the core has rotted
away entirely, but if you test it and there is still balsa
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