Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Mike

The main sail that was on Alianna when I purchased was fitted with a
Dutchman flaking system.  It worked OK but occasionally it would get caught
up in the topping lift at the head of the sail preventing lowering of the
main sail but when it worked, it good...the sail cover required two extra
slits with zippers.  When I got my new main sail the sail maker (Brad at
Doyle) asked me if I really wanted him to put holes and grommets in my new
sail for that Dutchman system, he sort of talked me out of doing that and I
did not much like the stack pack either.  I ended up with a loose foot 2+2
batten main sail and took all the rigging for the Dutchman system off the
boat.  I did not install lazy jacks and I don't want them now, so I guess I
would say I have a conventional main sail setup.  When I take the main sail
down, mostly I do it alone using my autopilot to steer and I usually head
into a protected cove and glide upwind and once the sail is all the way
down I quickly gather it up and secure it at somewhere near midpoint on the
boom with only 1 sail tie, then when at anchor or back on my mooring I
flake the sail properly and put the cover on...hardly ever pack it up
completely before that when underway unless I have a reliable crew like
Robert to steer the boat...I expect most of us would do it that way so even
when sailing single handed I use the main most of the time, in fact I
prefer to use the main sail alone as opposed to using the genoa alone, a
little less speed but I am not racing and the boat is more comfortable and
tacking upwind is a breeze with only the main sail to deal with, less lines
in the cockpit too...I think Robert came to appreciate that type of sailing
a little more this past summer so now you will likely see the mainsail on
Azura than in past years.

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Thu, Dec 10, 2015 at 9:53 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was looking at the Doyle Stack Pack information on their web site.  It
> indicates that an existing sail can be converted to a stack pack sail.
>
>
>
> Persistence came with lazy jacks (since removed but still available for
> reinstallation). Also have an older UK Tape Drive main as well as an almost
> new Quantum main.  This past season we used the older main for deliveries,
> everyday sailing and Wednesday racing and kept the new main for regattas
> etc …  Had noted a friend with aFrers 33 has a Doyle Stack Pack for
> deliveries and casual sailing and it has good enough sail shape for limited
> racing as well.  Have been considering a stack pack main at some time for
> cruising.
>
>
>
> Has anyone here converted an existing sail to a stack pack?  Any thoughts
> on feasibility of converting an older UK Tape Drive to stack pack?  Any
> ideas on cost and if at the end of life for that sail the stack pack
> components can be used on another sail?
>
>
>
> I know that the previous season we found the lazy jacks a pain that were
> always in the way and that last season with just two of us flaking the main
> was a major PITA esp when entering a narrow channel or looking to anchor.
>
>
>
> Thoughts?
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 33
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
> Formerly
>
> Nut Case 1987 J27
>
> Full Tilt 2 1979 Hinterhoeller Niagara 26
>
> Monkey Bear 1974 Paceship P23
>
> Full Tilt 1970s McVay Minuette
>
> Blue Horizon No. 1 1981 C 36 (family boat)
>
> High Hopes 1979 Spirit 28 (family boat)
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack? - Now Dutchman

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I have a dutchman system on my new boat, so was looking at this yesterday.
There is no absolute limit on roach or requirement for a topping lift
(there is a need for a line between mast head and boom end, so maybe that's
semantics).  With the Tides Marine track and dutchman, the main disappears
in seconds!

http://www.doylesails.com/downloads/DutchmanOwnersManual.pdf

Tim


On Fri, Dec 11, 2015 at 10:11 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I guess I need a bit of education from the list.
>
>
>
> The boats that I have been on that have a Dutchman flaking system (which
> is only 1 or 2) have all had the top of the vertical (monofilament?) lines
> that the sail slides down attached to the topping lift.  I thought this was
> the norm. Dwight’s post implies that this isn’t true.
>
>
>
> I’d considered putting a Dutchman system on Imzadi since I’m now mostly a
> cruiser, and dousing seems easy and slick without the hassles you end up
> with when you have lazy jacks and sail battens. I view the downsides of the
> Dutchman system to be the additional cost of making the sail, the fact that
> you need a topping lift (which is a PITA and seems to be tangled in the
> backstay every time you tack in light air), and you have a main with
> reduced roach (maybe that should be “you can’t maximize the roach”) because
> of the need for the leech to be under the topping lift.
>
>
>
> Just what IS the normal arrangement for a Dutchman?
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *dwight
> veinot via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, December 11, 2015 8:32 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> The main sail that was on Alianna when I purchased was fitted with a
> Dutchman flaking system.  It worked OK but occasionally it would get caught
> up in the topping lift at the head of the sail
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List depth transducer replacement

[svpegasus38]

I have drilled many a large hole that way. Works great. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Eric Frank via CnC-List Date: Thu, Dec 10, 
2015 12:20To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Eric Frank;Subject:Stus-List depth 
transducer replacement
A question about removing a depth transducer to install the new one.  Based on 
earlier input from the list, I have used a 2 inch hole saw from the top. 
Fortunately the diameter of the old transducer is just shy of 2 in and the new 
one requires a 2 in hole. So the body of the old transducer just fits inside 
the hole saw, keeping it lined up with little drag (not cutting much of the 
plastic body of the transducer).  When the inside top of the hole saw reached 
the top of the transducer, I then cut off the top half of the transducer so I 
could proceed drilling down.  Now the hole saw just touches the hull, but the 
inside top of the hole saw hits the top of the transducer, so I will need to 
saw off the next section of the transducer to proceed further.  With my tools, 
not so easy to saw off the transducer just above the hull. Question: what about 
drilling down thru the transducer with a regular drill bit, using the pilot 
hole made by the drill bit in the hole saw, and then, using that hole as a 
guide, use the hole saw to proceed up from the outside of the hull.  This would 
avoid cutting thru more of the transducer (a pain), and the pilot hole should 
guide the hole saw. Sound OK, or better to continue from the top?Thanks as 
always for your input.Eric FrankCat's PawC 35 Mk IIMattapoisett, 
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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole "uphaul" ??

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I like to differentiate two very different animals: 
The Topping Lift" goes to the boom end. The "Spinnaker Pole Lift" controls the 
Pole end while there is an uphaul and downhaul on the spin pole car on the 
mast, I prefer to name the mast control lines, "spin pole car uphaul and 
downhaul". 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Russ & Melody via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Russ & Melody"  
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 9:38:01 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole 


Do you mean the top'n' lift? :) 


At 02:25 PM 10/12/2015, you wrote: 


Do you mean the spinnaker pole lift? 


From: "Pamela & David via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Pamela & David"  
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 5:07:55 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Spinnaker pole 

Hello 

Does anyone know the length of rope for the UPHAUL on a C? 

I have a tracer string inplace on a recent purchase boat and are looking for a 
quick job to replace 

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Auto pilot clamp, threaded rod.

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Brian,

Welcome aboard the cnc-list.

Is it possible the rod is only threaded on the exposed ends allowing it to be 
pressed out?

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Fry 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2015 3:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Fry
Subject: Stus-List Fwd: Auto pilot clamp, threaded rod.


Hello, my name is Brian. I recently bought La Neige, a 1993 37/40xl.
I am in the Chesapeake.

http://i.imgur.com/5faMwZ9.jpg

The link is to a picture of my C 37/40 auto pilot clamp, where it attaches to 
the rudder shaft. The threaded rod has no bolt head to unscrew the rod.
Has anyone dealt with this issue? I need to drop my rudder, and this is not 
allowing that to happen.
.
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Auto pilot clamp, threaded rod.

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I've removed my rudder arm and it looked nothing like that.  It looks like
you are looking at the back side.  The 4 bolts accessible from the front
are all you need to remove.

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yZU1hczd0QlNEOWc/edit

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA/edit

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yQWIyanRiTzBKRlk/edit

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Dec 11, 2015 6:23 PM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hello, my name is Brian. I recently bought La Neige, a 1993 37/40xl.
> I am in the Chesapeake.
>
> http://i.imgur.com/5faMwZ9.jpg
>
> The link is to a picture of my C 37/40 auto pilot clamp, where it
> attaches to the rudder shaft. The threaded rod has no bolt head to unscrew
> the rod.
> Has anyone dealt with this issue? I need to drop my rudder, and this is
> not allowing that to happen.
> .
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Stus-List Rudder bearing 37/40

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

The image link below is of my rudder bearing. It looks to me like it has
dropped down. Being new to me I dont know what it is supposed to look like.
Is the lower ring supposed to be exposed? Or should it be up in the tube?

http://imgur.com/oy4FKng
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Stus-List Fwd: Auto pilot clamp, threaded rod.

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Hello, my name is Brian. I recently bought La Neige, a 1993 37/40xl.
I am in the Chesapeake.

http://i.imgur.com/5faMwZ9.jpg

The link is to a picture of my C 37/40 auto pilot clamp, where it
attaches to the rudder shaft. The threaded rod has no bolt head to unscrew
the rod.
Has anyone dealt with this issue? I need to drop my rudder, and this is not
allowing that to happen.
.
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Stus-List Small head sail - cheap!

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

A marina neighbor gave me a small head sail to sell.  It seems to be in
pretty decent condition.

It's a hank on crosscut Dacron.  Dimensions are:

Luff  32' 10"
Leech  28' 9"
Foot  12' 3"
LP 10' 6"

Cloth weight is medium to on the heavy side.  If critical, I can get my
sail maker to determine exact weight.

Price is $125 plus shipping.  I may be willing to ship to Canada but I
dread the paperwork.  :)

Any interested listers can contact me off list at captbuy at yahoo.com

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing 37/40

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Lower ring is just an acetyl bushing/spacer.  After cleaning and roughing
up the chipped out area I would use your favorite faring putty/thickened
epoxy to fill.

Welcome to the list.

We all kinda like to know where you're from so we have sign offs similar to
the following.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Dec 11, 2015 6:23 PM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> The image link below is of my rudder bearing. It looks to me like it has
> dropped down. Being new to me I dont know what it is supposed to look like.
> Is the lower ring supposed to be exposed? Or should it be up in the tube?
>
> http://imgur.com/oy4FKng
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Auto pilot clamp, threaded rod.

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hello Brian,

I see you found your way onto the C List.  Welcome.

Can you thread a nut onto the threaded rod?  In other words, are the
threads in good enough condition to allow yo to thread a nut onto the end
of the rod that is sticking out?

If so, can you get two nuts on there at the same time?  If you can (you may
have to grind one thinner to allow the second one to thread on) get some
RED LocTite and put both nuts on there, holding the inner one in place with
a wrench while you tighten the second down on top of it.  Let the LocTite
set then use the wrench on the inner nut to remove the threaded rod.

Ken H.

S/V Salazar
C 37 XL

On 11 December 2015 at 21:31, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> What's on the other end of the screw?
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Fri, Dec 11, 2015 at 6:22 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello, my name is Brian. I recently bought La Neige, a 1993 37/40xl.
>> I am in the Chesapeake.
>>
>> http://i.imgur.com/5faMwZ9.jpg
>>
>> The link is to a picture of my C 37/40 auto pilot clamp, where it
>> attaches to the rudder shaft. The threaded rod has no bolt head to unscrew
>> the rod.
>> Has anyone dealt with this issue? I need to drop my rudder, and this is
>> not allowing that to happen.
>> .
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Auto pilot clamp, threaded rod.

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Brian,

I looked at your picture again and realized that it appears the four bolts
have already been removed.  Did the arm come off and now only the back
remains?  I'm thinking more and more that vice-grips are in your future.

Josh
On Dec 11, 2015 6:23 PM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hello, my name is Brian. I recently bought La Neige, a 1993 37/40xl.
> I am in the Chesapeake.
>
> http://i.imgur.com/5faMwZ9.jpg
>
> The link is to a picture of my C 37/40 auto pilot clamp, where it
> attaches to the rudder shaft. The threaded rod has no bolt head to unscrew
> the rod.
> Has anyone dealt with this issue? I need to drop my rudder, and this is
> not allowing that to happen.
> .
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole "uphaul" ??

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck,

Maybe I should have used  in the response. Email message can be 
difficult to express subtleties, but I probably should have warned 
you about clarifying sailing terms here. My approval rating has been 
about 50/50 so far. 


The topping lift was never just for the main boom. It was in general 
use for any spar lift at the lower portion of a sail, main, stays'l 
or spinnaker. Club footed jib excepted of course and upper spars 
having other cute names, such as peak halyard.


Anyhow, these days it seems we're all correct. Most of us foredeck 
guys from the 70s & 80s would know the smallest wire & snap shackle 
is the top'n' lift, or later on to become the "pole lift".


And as you say, when a foredeck mate yells at the pit for uphaul, he 
really wants the inboard end of the spinnaker pole raised. It is 
remarkable how long it can take for this simple request to be 
acknowledged sometimes.  :)


But don't be too hard on newbies. If their source of info is the 
Internet they get advice from Wiki such as this:



From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
This article is about the spar. For floating barriers to control 
access to harbours and rivers, see 
boom 
(navigational barrier).
For other uses, see 
Boom.
 In sailing, a boom is a 
spar (pole), 
along the 
foot 
(bottom edge) of a fore 
and aft rigged 
sail,[1] 
that...   (good so far, but..)


The topping lift (more rarely known as an uphaul) is a 
line which 
applies upward force on a 
boom on a 
sailboat.


A topping lift may also refer to a line on the front of the mast 
used to rig the spinnaker pole. It is used to trim the pole to the 
proper height when hoisting the 
spinnaker.


Hoo boy. Where do we go from here?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1




At 02:27 PM 11/12/2015, you wrote:

I like to differentiate two very different animals:
The Topping Lift" goes to the boom end.  The "Spinnaker Pole Lift" 
controls the Pole end while there is an uphaul and downhaul on the 
spin pole car on the mast, I prefer to name the mast control lines, 
"spin pole car uphaul and downhaul".


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


--
From: "Russ & Melody via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Russ & Melody" 
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 9:38:01 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole


Do you mean the top'n' lift? :)


At 02:25 PM 10/12/2015, you wrote:
Do you mean the spinnaker pole lift?


--
From: "Pamela & David via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Pamela & David" 
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 5:07:55 PM
Subject: Stus-List Spinnaker pole

Hello

Does anyone know the length of rope for the UPHAUL on a C?

I have a tracer string inplace on a recent purchase boat and are 
looking for a quick job to replace


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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Auto pilot clamp, threaded rod.

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

What's on the other end of the screw?
Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Dec 11, 2015 at 6:22 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello, my name is Brian. I recently bought La Neige, a 1993 37/40xl.
> I am in the Chesapeake.
>
> http://i.imgur.com/5faMwZ9.jpg
>
> The link is to a picture of my C 37/40 auto pilot clamp, where it
> attaches to the rudder shaft. The threaded rod has no bolt head to unscrew
> the rod.
> Has anyone dealt with this issue? I need to drop my rudder, and this is
> not allowing that to happen.
> .
>
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack? - Now Dutchman

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I guess I need a bit of education from the list.

 

The boats that I have been on that have a Dutchman flaking system (which is 
only 1 or 2) have all had the top of the vertical (monofilament?) lines that 
the sail slides down attached to the topping lift.  I thought this was the 
norm. Dwight’s post implies that this isn’t true.

 

I’d considered putting a Dutchman system on Imzadi since I’m now mostly a 
cruiser, and dousing seems easy and slick without the hassles you end up with 
when you have lazy jacks and sail battens. I view the downsides of the Dutchman 
system to be the additional cost of making the sail, the fact that you need a 
topping lift (which is a PITA and seems to be tangled in the backstay every 
time you tack in light air), and you have a main with reduced roach (maybe that 
should be “you can’t maximize the roach”) because of the need for the leech to 
be under the topping lift.

 

Just what IS the normal arrangement for a Dutchman?

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2015 8:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?

 

Mike

The main sail that was on Alianna when I purchased was fitted with a Dutchman 
flaking system.  It worked OK but occasionally it would get caught up in the 
topping lift at the head of the sail 




Dwight Veinot

C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

d.ve...@bellaliant.net  

 

 

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Re: Stus-List depth transducer replacement

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

Frank  - How about knocking the old sensor out and spending two minutes
enlarging the hole with a coarse half-round file?  (could use a die grinder
if air nearby,  or a bit from one on a cordless drill, or a drum sander ona
cordless drill, etc)
Am I missing something?

Dave








Message: 12
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2015 08:19:11 -0800 (PST)
From: svpegasu...@gmail.com <svpegasu...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List depth transducer replacement
Message-ID: <000f4242.2eb1832d2f8da...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"







I have drilled many a large hole that way. Works great.?
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Eric Frank via CnC-List Date: Thu, Dec
10, 2015 12:20To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Eric Frank;Subject:Stus-List
depth transducer replacement
A question about removing a depth transducer to install the new one.  Based
on earlier input from the list, I have used a 2 inch hole saw from the top.
Fortunately the diameter of the old transducer is just shy of 2 in and the
new one requires a 2 in hole. So the body of the old transducer just fits
inside the hole saw, keeping it lined up with little drag (not cutting much
of the plastic body of the transducer).  When the inside top of the hole
saw reached the top of the transducer, I then cut off the top half of the
transducer so I could proceed drilling down.  Now the hole saw just touches
the hull, but the inside top of the hole saw hits the top of the
transducer, so I will need to saw off the next section of the transducer to
proceed further.  With my tools, not so easy to saw off the transducer just
above the hull. Question: what about drilling down thru the transducer with
a regular drill bit, using the pilot hole made by the drill bit in the hole
saw, and then, using that hole as a guide, use the hole saw to proceed up
from the outside of the hull.  This would avoid cutting thru more of the
transducer (a pain), and the pilot hole should guide the hole saw. Sound
OK, or better to continue from the top?Thanks as always for your input.Eric
FrankCat's PawC 35 Mk IIMattapoisett,
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