Re: Stus-List NEW OWNER OF POP'AYE, 41 FT C C, SHOAL DRAFT WTIH CENTERBOARD
If you have a furler and it extends beyond the foot of the mast (it probably will not if you are keel stepped), take a length of a 2x3 or 2x4 (depending on the mast), stick it in to the mast foot and use it to support the furler drum. You don't want it to dangle on its foil (or be the first one to hit the wall). Another thought - you want the mast to be as high over the cockpit as reasonable - you will be moving around there a lot. And try clearing the mess of the shrouds and other rigging off the deck. One more - one way of securing the mast down on the deck is to use the tie-down straps (the ratchet type). You can buy a bunch of them at low cost in any automotive store (and they are red (or other bright colour) so you won't be tripping over them that easily). Marek (in Ottawa) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rebel Heart -
There is a *lot* more to the story of Rebel Heart. You can find out all about it in the usual places. Long Story Short is the wife has issues, they never should have left Mexico, and having NO communications might have been the best thing for them. As for ham radio, it is very nice to have for a medical issue, but if your boat is sinking fast the SSB won't help much and I wouldn't rely on a SPOT or sat-phone to replace an EPIRB. 73 de N3HGB M/M Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Pennie via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2014 7:27 PM To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rebel Heart - Really not a pi___ng match - honest. I just can't stress enough how valuable and helpful the ham community can be. Please, if you venture offshore, take the time to learn and pursue a license. I am not bashing the sat phone - I had one on board when cruising. It just wouldn't be my go-to. Ok, yes, I would grab it because it is quick and might work. I'd do that while the SSB was warming up. John On May 11, 2014, at 7:07 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: No argument here. I don't want to get into a p___ing match with anyone. I'm too busy. Whatever you say. I have an HF receiver on board, and have listened and learned. Wal you wrote: I'm sorry, have to jump in here. With a sat phone, assuming it works, you may get some operator on the phone. With a SSB, assuming you took the time to learn it, you will probably get half the ham community on the other end. That is a group that will go above and beyond. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List NEW OWNER OF POP'AYE, 41 FT C C, SHOAL DRAFT WTIH CENTERBOARD
Jack: You’ll make much, much better time staying outside once you reach Florida. Especially from the Treasure Coast on south, there are endless drawbridges. As a longtime East Coast of Florida sailor, I’ve never understood the attraction of motoring down the ICW. As long as you stay inside during major fronts, you won’t have any problems on the outside. With a crew of five, you should eat up 150 miles a day easy sailing/motoring in the ocean as opposed to maybe 50 on the inside. As the Gulfstream gets closer to shore, say West Palm, stay in about 40 or 50 feet of water to avoid the northbound current. Avoid the smaller inlets; they’re treacherous. You want to use the same ports as the big ships. Prevailing winds are east/southeast with occasional souths. On a normal day, beating or motorsailing into the wind is not a problem along the coast. Also, I don’t know what your air draft is, but I suspect it is substantial. Sixty-five feet is the max for fixed bridges on the ICW, and there are a couple of 55-footers, including one close to downtown Miami. Your five-foot draft should make it through most of the Intracoastal in Florida, although that might not be the case in Georgia and some points north, according to accounts I’ve read. With a 5-foot draft, you should at least think about cutting the corner by picking up the Yacht Channel at Marathon and going 45 miles across Florida Bay as opposed to a couple of hundred miles to Key West and back. Hawk’s Channel on the Atlantic side is the safe way to go in the Keys with a big boat, but it’s difficult to sail at night due to all of the coral reefs. Your draft will work on the Intracoastal (Gulf side) in the Keys at least as far as Marathon, as long as you accept the possibility of a soft grounding in random spots where shoaling has happened. (Buy a Towboat US card.) Gulf side has many more anchorages and tiki bars, big pluses in my book. Sounds like a fun trip. Good luck. Jack Brennan Former CC 25 Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30 Tierra Verde, Fl. From: Jack McCall via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2014 9:18 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List NEW OWNER OF POP'AYE, 41 FT C C,SHOAL DRAFT WTIH CENTERBOARD Hello, My name is Jack McCall and I just purchased POP'AYE a C C 41 with shoal draft keel and centerboard. The boat is currently on its cradle at Gregory's Marina, Detroit, Michigan. Next week I will fly up to Detroit and with my five man crew we plan to sail the boat down to Venice, Florida where I currently live. We plan to cross Lake Erie and take the Erie Canal to the Hudson river. Sail down the Hudson River out New York Harbor and then down the East Coast to Norfolk, VA where we will enter the ICW (Inter-Coastal-Waterway) which we will follow all the way to South Florida. Next will be outside down to Key West and then around and up the West Coast of Florida to her new dock in Venice, Florida. Has anyone out there made this trip in a C C ??? I can use all the advice and tips anyone might offer. Experience with laying the mast down and securing it on deck for the transit of the Erie Canal is our first challenge. There are several marinas at both ends of the canal which have jib cranes to assist in the take down and stand up but I could use some advice as to the type of stands we should make to carry the mast on deck. Any advice as to retuning the rig when we stand it back up would be appreciated. I cannot find any tuning specifications and/or tips for the C C 41. I have acquired several cruising guides for the ICW but first had knowledge is always the best. Plan to be in the water by May 15 and then off to Florida by May 19. I will try to post some reports as our trip progresses. Aye for now, Jack McCall ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List NEW OWNER OF POP'AYE, 41 FT C C, SHOAL DRAFT WTIH CENTERBOARD
I have not done this trip in a CC, but I have gone the other direction in another type of boat. Sad to say, but you can make much better time down the ICW to Florida with the mast down ☹ Tons and tons of drawbridges. If you make it as far as Annapolis rig-down we certainly have good rigging shops that have seen CC 41s before. I wouldn’t try to get around Cape Hatteras against the Gulf Stream myself, but you can save a lot of bridges, shallows, and S turns by going out at Cape Fear and going coastal the rest of the way. Also note you can go out the Saint Lawrence River and leave the mast up, but it is a longer trip. (can you tell I am not an ICW fan for sailboats? It is Boston Whaler heaven, but between low bridges and shallow water you can do a lot better outside in nice weather) Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack Brennan via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 10:00 AM To: Jack McCall; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List NEW OWNER OF POP'AYE, 41 FT C C, SHOAL DRAFT WTIH CENTERBOARD Jack: You’ll make much, much better time staying outside once you reach Florida. Especially from the Treasure Coast on south, there are endless drawbridges. As a longtime East Coast of Florida sailor, I’ve never understood the attraction of motoring down the ICW. As long as you stay inside during major fronts, you won’t have any problems on the outside. With a crew of five, you should eat up 150 miles a day easy sailing/motoring in the ocean as opposed to maybe 50 on the inside. As the Gulfstream gets closer to shore, say West Palm, stay in about 40 or 50 feet of water to avoid the northbound current. Avoid the smaller inlets; they’re treacherous. You want to use the same ports as the big ships. Prevailing winds are east/southeast with occasional souths. On a normal day, beating or motorsailing into the wind is not a problem along the coast. Also, I don’t know what your air draft is, but I suspect it is substantial. Sixty-five feet is the max for fixed bridges on the ICW, and there are a couple of 55-footers, including one close to downtown Miami. Your five-foot draft should make it through most of the Intracoastal in Florida, although that might not be the case in Georgia and some points north, according to accounts I’ve read. With a 5-foot draft, you should at least think about cutting the corner by picking up the Yacht Channel at Marathon and going 45 miles across Florida Bay as opposed to a couple of hundred miles to Key West and back. Hawk’s Channel on the Atlantic side is the safe way to go in the Keys with a big boat, but it’s difficult to sail at night due to all of the coral reefs. Your draft will work on the Intracoastal (Gulf side) in the Keys at least as far as Marathon, as long as you accept the possibility of a soft grounding in random spots where shoaling has happened. (Buy a Towboat US card.) Gulf side has many more anchorages and tiki bars, big pluses in my book. Sounds like a fun trip. Good luck. Jack Brennan Former CC 25 Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30 Tierra Verde, Fl. From: Jack McCall via CnC-Listmailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2014 9:18 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List NEW OWNER OF POP'AYE, 41 FT C C,SHOAL DRAFT WTIH CENTERBOARD Hello, My name is Jack McCall and I just purchased POP'AYE a C C 41 with shoal draft keel and centerboard. The boat is currently on its cradle at Gregory's Marina, Detroit, Michigan. Next week I will fly up to Detroit and with my five man crew we plan to sail the boat down to Venice, Florida where I currently live. We plan to cross Lake Erie and take the Erie Canal to the Hudson river. Sail down the Hudson River out New York Harbor and then down the East Coast to Norfolk, VA where we will enter the ICW (Inter-Coastal-Waterway) which we will follow all the way to South Florida. Next will be outside down to Key West and then around and up the West Coast of Florida to her new dock in Venice, Florida. Has anyone out there made this trip in a C C ??? I can use all the advice and tips anyone might offer. Experience with laying the mast down and securing it on deck for the transit of the Erie Canal is our first challenge. There are several marinas at both ends of the canal which have jib cranes to assist in the take down and stand up but I could use some advice as to the type of stands we should make to carry the mast on deck. Any advice as to retuning the rig when we stand it back up would be appreciated. I cannot find any tuning specifications and/or tips for the C C 41. I have acquired several cruising guides for the ICW but first had knowledge is always the best. Plan to be in the water by May 15 and then off to Florida by May 19. I will try to post some reports as our trip progresses. Aye for now, Jack McCall
Stus-List Fw: POP'AYE, 41 FT C C, DETROIT TO FLORIDA
I don't think it went to the list -Original Message- From: Don Siddall Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 9:48 AM To: Marek Dziedzic Subject: POP'AYE, 41 FT C C, DETROIT TO FLORIDA The tie down straps are really good. You want to ratchet them up tight. Remember you will go under a low bridge about 1-2 hours after leaving Oswego. The marina can advise. You do want to get under it intact. Also lash a 2x4 to the top of the mast so it extends a foot, or so, past the nav light. When someone grabs the end of your mast as it is coming toward them or it hits the wall you will find it easier to later remove the 2x4 than replace the nav light. Make sure you have BIG fenders and use boards to protect them as you go up and down the walls. Some of the walls have exposed rock. When you buy supplies remember to stock up. Although there are food stores along the way they are well off the path and assuming you will be in transit for many hours of the day given the longer daylight of summer. You may not find them open when you need them. If you are trying to move quickly, Oswego, Waterford, New York City (Sheep's Head Bay), Annapolis, Norfolk, Elizabeth City... will be the major supply locations. Skipper Bob's book gives advice. Cheers Don ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Replacing the toilet and holding tank in a 1980 CC 30 Mk 1
Before I break a sweat, thought I should check in with the group. I know the holding tank is behind the teak wall or vanity but I was curious as to how much had to be removed before gaining access to the tank. If it all needs to be removed, is there anyone out there who can supply photos, nuggets of wisdom, step by step instructions, tips or tricks to getting things apart with minimal destruction? I know several have done this job on their boats, and replaced the metal holding tank with a plastic one. (I lost the names of tank suppliers). I am looking at installing one of the new Jabsco toilets. After resetting the hard drive on my computer I lost the link to the archives and my links to suppliers, so I have not checked there yet. From Peter, in Penetanguishene...running out of Febreze. Peter Delean CC 30 Mk1 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain
Mark, A bit of a chain primer might shed some light on this. Many boaters think chain is just chain. However, chain isn't just chain. Chain is designated by both size and type. Size can even be US or metric. There are several different types of chain. Chain can be designated BBB, proof coil, G3, G4, G34, S4, HT (high test), transport, AlloyGr80, AlloyGr100 and other types. Some of these types are just different names for the same chain. Each chain type has different dimensions, even for the same size. Different grades have different strengths. For instance, 5/16 G4 is stronger than 3/8 BBB. Also, windlass gypsies are made for certain size and type of chains. They don't like other chains. Commonly, anchor chain is usually BBB, G34 or G4. High end boats may use S4. So, you may have a chain different than what you think. Go here: http://www.1st-chainsupply.com/index_chain.htm On the left you will see a link called Reference then a second link called Chain Data. Selecting one of the chains may help you identify which chain you have and then help you select a shackle. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, May 12, 2014 at 12:52 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Needed to replace the chain and shackles on my anchor - the existing shackles needed to be cut off with a cut-off blade (totally corroded). Bought 16' of 5/16 galv chain to add to connect the 27lb Kingston plow anchor and the ~250ft of 5/8 rode. But I was surprised to find that I couldn't fit the U of a 3/8 shackle (or even a 5/16) through the 5/16 chain. Everything I read said I should bump up the shackle one size from the chain to maintain working strength - but given I couldn't fit the ends of the U through the chain links I had to use 2 shackles on the anchor --- one with the pin through the anchor and a second shackle reversed with the pin through the chain link. Is that normal? I tried chain a 2 different locations with same results Mark -- There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Autohelm ST50 Wind instrument
Has anyone on the list got a surplus working Autohelm or Raymarine ST 50 or 60 Wind instrument available? Mine croaked. Grrr!!! I only need the readout. Thanks:) Rich Knowles INDIGO LF38 Halifax, NS. On May 12, 2014, at 21:59, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Mark, Sounds like you are building a hurricane proof anchoring system? 5/8 nylon is hard to get onto cleats smaller than 10. Just sayin. Following Chapman's, I tried 5/8 docklines and found I could never get them over my 6 and even 8 cleats. I use 1/2 nylon three strand twisted for lunch hook and 1/2 stretchy double braid for tougher situations. 36' and 11000#. Gave more than 200' of 5/8 nylon docklines to my brother-in-law for his clamboats. If you are committed to your present system, you should check out Wichard for amazingly strong schackles in small sizes. Their SS is the strongest. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 1:52:33 PM Subject: Stus-List Shackles and chain Needed to replace the chain and shackles on my anchor - the existing shackles needed to be cut off with a cut-off blade (totally corroded). Bought 16' of 5/16 galv chain to add to connect the 27lb Kingston plow anchor and the ~250ft of 5/8 rode. But I was surprised to find that I couldn't fit the U of a 3/8 shackle (or even a 5/16) through the 5/16 chain. Everything I read said I should bump up the shackle one size from the chain to maintain working strength - but given I couldn't fit the ends of the U through the chain links I had to use 2 shackles on the anchor --- one with the pin through the anchor and a second shackle reversed with the pin through the chain link. Is that normal? I tried chain a 2 different locations with same results Mark -- There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain
Considering I use 1/4 HT chain and 1/2 nylon for Shift, I have to agree. 3/8 nylon would be appropriate to give enough stretch with strength. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 12 May 2014 17:59, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Mark, Sounds like you are building a hurricane proof anchoring system? 5/8 nylon is hard to get onto cleats smaller than 10. Just sayin. Following Chapman's, I tried 5/8 docklines and found I could never get them over my 6 and even 8 cleats. I use 1/2 nylon three strand twisted for lunch hook and 1/2 stretchy double braid for tougher situations. 36' and 11000#. Gave more than 200' of 5/8 nylon docklines to my brother-in-law for his clamboats. If you are committed to your present system, you should check out Wichard for amazingly strong schackles in small sizes. Their SS is the strongest. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ -- *From: *CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com *To: *CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent: *Monday, May 12, 2014 1:52:33 PM *Subject: *Stus-List Shackles and chain Needed to replace the chain and shackles on my anchor - the existing shackles needed to be cut off with a cut-off blade (totally corroded). Bought 16' of 5/16 galv chain to add to connect the 27lb Kingston plow anchor and the ~250ft of 5/8 rode. But I was surprised to find that I couldn't fit the U of a 3/8 shackle (or even a 5/16) through the 5/16 chain. Everything I read said I should bump up the shackle one size from the chain to maintain working strength - but given I couldn't fit the ends of the U through the chain links I had to use 2 shackles on the anchor --- one with the pin through the anchor and a second shackle reversed with the pin through the chain link. Is that normal? I tried chain a 2 different locations with same results Mark -- There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
