What about rebuilding it? Smiths clear penetrating epoxy and wood filler
can yield some pretty amazing results. Coat the whole thing in epoxy for a
final coat.
In the off season you can mix up a big batch an let it soak in real long.
Like a couple days long. Then let it cure even longer.
Josh
The tiller on my 27-V is on its last legsI'm going to replace it this
winter and want to know the best place to order a new one from. It's design
splits toward the aft end to hug the rudder and I don't see anything like it on
stock shops. So custom is going to be the order of the day. How ab
Bob,
seacocks
I'm keeping my boat 2 1/2 hrs from home and closing seacocks more than I used
to. I'm trying to develop better habits closing up the boat prior to leaving
for the week. Got any tips or maybe a checklist?
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
- Ori
Had another amazing weekend again on the Magothy River. The 20 to 30 knot
Northwest wind blew the the water out of the Chesapeake Bay to cause an
abnormal low tide, yet we still had enough water to leave the slip and return
to pick up/drop off passengers each day. Sweet!
Great sailing wind late
I tried to stay out of this one, but the Irish whiskey has taken over.
Atomic four engines are safe if properly maintained. Those of you who
claim otherwise are just blowing smoke.
Those of you who are under the impression that a diesel upgrade saving you
.5 gallons per hour will pay off in a li
ow
>> missing. I am thinking of filling the hole. Does anyone know what this
>> hole actually is and is there any reason why it should not be filled?
>>
>
>
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le actually is and is there any reason why it should not be filled?
>
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Joel, it sounds like we have the same heater and I think we have the same
engine (3GMF) - I get very hot water in half an hour of engine running or
less. It is too hot to wash dishes in without adding cold so you can
actually put your hands in - however hot that is (and my cold water is cold
- fro
If you are getting hot water from the cold water tap, the chances are that the
hot water is "spilling" from the heater through the input hose.
Marek
Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
Jake,
Probably the same one. Guess I'll be flushing mine out. The drain has a
hose thread on it so I can prob
Jake,
Probably the same one. Guess I'll be flushing mine out. The drain has a
hose thread on it so I can probably back flush it. You may not want to
know what comes out. Even on mine the cold water gets heated when the
engine is running.
Joel
On Tuesday, July 8, 2014, Bill Bina via CnC-List
I once troubleshot a home boiler with
an integral domestic hot water coil. The water coming out of the
taps never got more than warm. Turned out there was a "balance
pipe" between the cold water input to the boiler and the domestic
hot water output. In the middle
Joel,
Not sure what heater I have. It’s old, round, and white with a black top. It
gets scalding hot after 20-30 of running time. My problem is that I get hot
water out of both the hot and cold faucets. Something isn’t plumbed right, I
think.
Jake
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list
Burt,
Both blades are usually attached by a single large pin (Martec for example).
You should see maybe an 1/8" of play between the blades. Martec rebuilds
them by drilling the hole out for the next larger pin size. It lasts quite
a while. Mine is over ten years old and still going strong.
Bill you are absolutely correct. As a rule of thumb, one should always
avoid drinking the water out of a water heater. Domestic, marine, RV, or
otherwise. That is a strong argument for a thermal mixing valve and a temp
seting of +160°.
The anodes can also be made out of aluminum, thought to caus
Josh, had a great sail to and from Solomons this weekend and completely forgot
to get in touch with you. We delayed our departure until after Arthur had
passed so we only had a day there. Last time I was there we sailed the
Solomon's race so didn't get much time then either.
Chris Price
Padel
Water from a hot water heater is not considered 'potable'. It should not
be used for cooking or drinking.
The reason is this. The danger zone for most bacteria is 40 degrees F to
140 degrees F. There are several harmful bacteria that can live in your
water heater, including legionella, if the
Small diesel engines under light load have less “waste” heat than a similar HP
gas engine. A diesel engine also wants to be 170F to 180F to run well.
Pulling waste heat off to heat domestic water when motoring for a short time or
under light load (calm conditions, under hull speed) may increase
It takes about an hour of running to bring the tanks (5 US gallons) up to
the same water temp as the engine's water temp.
Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald, export manager
Fitzgerald Forwarding Co. Inc. FMC license no:1966F
260 Oatland Island Road, Savannah, GA 31410 USA
Tel. no: 912 898.1069 - Fax no
~1/2 hrish
On Jul 8, 2014 5:33 PM, "Petar Horvatic via CnC-List"
wrote:
> After how many hours of engine runtime is your hot water at 170F?
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 08, 2014 5:30 PM
> *To
After how many hours of engine runtime is your hot water at 170F?
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 5:30 PM
To: C&C List; Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question
+1 to Jacks comment
+1 to Jacks comments. The difficulty with flushing is that the cold water
inlet and the drain line are shared. I replumbed my heater with a 3-way
valve so that when I want to flush I shift the valve and now the cold water
goes IN the hot water outlet and OUT the drain at the cold water inlet tap.
The hot water produced via the engine heat ex-changer in my 39 exits the
faucet at slightly less that the operating temperature of the engine. If
the engine water temp reads 180F the hot water at the faucet is usually
about 170F.
Jack Fitzgerald
C&C 39 TM
HONEY - US12788
Best regards,
Jack Fitzg
All,
I've got a Raritan heater. When I run my Yanmar 30GM the hot water out of
the tap is certainly cooler than I would get from my home water heater.
When used to make instant coffee the coffee can be drunk right away
without cooling.
How hot should the water get?
Do I need to flush the water
FWIW I grew up on gas powered fishing boats. The biggest problem we had
was the ignition system - a problem largely solved with electronic
ignition. We always lifted a hatch to smell for gas and occasionally ran
the blower. We never had a problem.
That being said, I'm happy to have my Yanmar 30
Having gone through two A4 rebuilds and then a replacement of A4 with DIY
rebuild of westerbeake 4-108, I can say that I do feel safer with diesel
under my cockpit, only because I don't have to look for leaks as often. I
was comfortable with gasoline because I was aware of what is going on in my
e
fascinating link, thanks.
But there's a much bigger denominator - 12.5 million boats registered
http://www.nmma.org/news.aspx?id=18028
Basic math says we keep making boats, so the water's going to get crowded
unless we increase the sinking rate
Nate
"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
I'm forwarding this earlier thread with link to stats from USGC on boat
accidents. Interesting info there, especially Rick picking out the 1 out of
86 fires occurring in a sailboat.
-Original Message-
From: Rick Brass
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 1:31 PM
To: 'Peter Fell' ; cnc-li
Same here with our 39 TM back in the day. I still have the old shaft with
it's prop mark as well as the old Martec prop on the wall in our bout house
to remind just how nice it is to now own a Max Prop
Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY - US12788
C&C 39 TM
Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald, export manager
Fitzger
On a C&C 39 (A4, Martec folding prop) back in the late 70's we would mark the
shaft coupling with lines indicating when the prop blades were vertical. For a
long offshore race like Transpac we would send one of the crew over the side to
put a rubber band or two around the blades to keep them cl
Sounds correct--I just was defining a plane differently than you.
For example, if there was a piece of paper clutched by the blades, the paper
would be held in an approximate
vertical plane when folded to minimize drag.
Martec's instructions 1) keep the lower blade from falling down and 2) proj
Have original B&G instruments on 1986 35-3. Digital wind speed indicator,
cockpit display not working, but can get reading from Hornet 4 Sailing Monitor
cabin instrument. So masthead transmission of signal would seem to be OK. Does
anyone have a discarded yet functioning one of these cockpit dis
My prop is folding, not feathering. On a non-geared folder If you have the
blades on a vertical plane, the lower blade will hang down from gravity /
add additional drag. On horizontal plane they fold together completely
(Looks like a seaweed) and minimize drag. If it's a geared folder, they
will
my experience many switches dont activate until to late with
gasoline...only safe items human nose &high quality gasoline fume
detector...not detector that sniffs propane ,smoke,co2 but gas only..
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This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
Email a
electric bilge pump not best way to get rid of gasoline spill but 5 miles
from shore full crew &hot muffler with fuel dripping on it ...only drown
whole area possible..whale 25 portable pump pumping from lake was great
help..enough water in boat to above floor boards auto pumps kept us from
event
That doesn't sound right.the key should not allow the prop to move on the
shaft.is the end nut on tight.is it a geared foding prop
_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: July 8, 2014 11:39 AM
To: 'Josh Muckley'; 'C&C List'
I think it's easier to replace the pin, and judging from the angle of mine
it has deflected a lot of stuff. If it saves you from even one episode of
floating line jammed in between the rudder and hull...it's worth it.
Here's a shot from last year's haulout, before the pressure wash so the OP
can s
I fitted a new 13” x 11” 2 blade flexofold to my C&C 26 this winter.
Went for my first sail this season (late launch - ‘nother story!)
I think I have more power in forward and reverse with the flexofold than I had
with the 3 blade fixed.
I don’t really notice any prop walk problems; there is sl
A minor point and probably not significant regarding speed thru the water but I
think you want to line the blades up to be in a vertical plane as opposed to
horizontal plane.
In the vertical plane, they present virtually no cross sectional area to the
boat direction, whereas in the horizontal
That just got me even more excited to get her in the water. She just looks
fast. I sanded the bottom well but did not remove all the old paint so I
think it is pretty clean but certainly not burnished. Next year I think I
will really go through the boat below the waterline and make sure the bottom
Hi Skip,
I just put-on an old school Martec folder and I love it. Combined with a
clean bottom (But old sails) and a few tweaks the boat just flies. I was
out in 15-22 true wind breeze last week and detroyed my old 7.0 knots
record with a whopping 8.3 (GPS Calibrated) knots sailing close hauled
Thanks. I was wondering about that. There seems to be some play and I don't
know enough about them to assess it. The play seems to be at the connection
to the shaft, not where the blades hinge to the base of the prop. In other
words the whole prop will move a little on the shaft.
From: Josh Mu
I would stick with what you have. Just remember that you have to throttle
up pretty far to get the blade to open and start moving the boat
backwards. If it is problematic for the remainder of this season you can
change it out during the next haul-out.
You should give the one you have a good insp
http://www.suncorstainless.com/quick-attachtrade
You can download the catalog from Suncor in case Defender doesn't stock
the exact part or parts you need.
I used this swageless system when I re-did my lifelines. They are very
easy to use, and very secure for lifeline use. I would not use them
What wire is used for lifelines? 7 x 19? Type 316?
Is it possible to find fittings that match the old latches from a previous
swaged installation?
Cheers!
Alex
Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
+1 (416) 203-9858 Office
+1 (416) 529-0070 Mobile
www.airsensing.com
Skip, that conversation happens just about every time someone asks about an A4!
LOLKeep us posted on your progress! DannyLolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, MA
-- Original Message --
From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List
To: "'jtsails'" , , "'Della Barba,
Joe'"
Subject: Re: Stus-Li
I just switched from a fixed 2 blade and went to a wide blade folding and am
very happy. It is up to a knot faster sailing but some them, the market
specifically tend to have very poor reverse performance to stay the least.
You certainly can buy my old fixed at a good price if you want it
Some Morse cables have a 4 inch throw while others may only have a 3 inch
throw.I found that the gear shifter for the A4 on the C&C 27 that I owned
several years ago required a cable with a 4 inch throw.I also played around
with adjusting the plates inside the gear box to achieve better forward,
ne
Understanding I may be opening up a new forum for debate but I have read
quite a few posts about the folding clamshell props. I have one on my boat.
I have no experience with them. It is sitting on the hard and this is my
last chance to replace it before I launch (hopefully) next weekend. I will
no
Appreciate the support and agree… MAN diesel does stink…. Forgot about that.
Really didn’t mean to poke everyone into a big argument.
I am delighted that I have the famous A-4 under my decks that I can develop a
relationship with but honestly, if this hull had a running diesel in it I woul
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