Re: Stus-List Post question on CnC discussion list

[tom via CnC-List]

Dave & Antoine,
What it seems like is that there should be some upward angle but better at
the mast fitting.
So it seems that I'm best checking at the mast to see if there is an angle
at the fitting or not. My spreaders are pictured in the link below trying
to show the bend in them.
Would hammering them back to shape cause damage or is this a pro job only?

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dx8rxhya2dyummc/AACODZtg41WU01YI-AxHtfAIa?dl=0

Thanks,
Tom


On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 5:49 PM, David Kaseler  wrote:

> Tom.
> I'm no rigger but I too have a C 33-1. Also, ours is not the original
> mast so things are different and I do suggest you discuss this issue with a
> professional rigger. I believe the spreader should be angled up as you see
> on yours. The trick is to direct the load evenly from the shroud so there
> is no tendency for the spreader tip to move up or down or for it to buckle
> under load, and there is a lot of load. The reason the end needs to angled
> up is because the angle of the shroud above the spreader is smaller than
> that below the spreader.
> Dave.
> SLY C 33-1
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 15, 2017, at 11:30 AM, tom via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Stu,
> Can the following be posted on the CnC List?
>
> Mast, Turnbuckles and Spreader for C 33-1
> Hi Everyone,
> Having my mast down this season for rigging check and LED lights and
> wiring replacement the rod seems to be original as well as the turnbuckles
> and I have been advised to replace and not just re-head. While this is
> under consideration awaiting estimate, the spreaders come in to question.
> Showing a bit of looseness and shake (that might have been somewhat
> lessened by tightening the holding screws) when removed showed some bending
> and slight malformation of the spreader housing where it attaches to the
> mast fitting. What is questionable is there is a noticeable angle (10
> degrees or so) at the edge of both  spreaders where they attach to the mast
> fitting that would give the spreaders an upward bias.
> My question: is this angle along the length of the spreader supposed to be
> there or is the spreader supposed to be straight? If it is supposed to be
> straight is reforming ok to do or do they need replacement?
> Thanks much. Any help is appreciated, ,
> Tom Oryniak
> *Carry On* C 33-1
> Raritan Bay NJ
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Post question on CnC discussion list; now C 33-1 spreaders

[tom via CnC-List]

Rodney,
Nice pic of the rigging. Somewhat surprised though that you mention all
original never reheaded. I thought the norm was to do this by now.
My spreader pic is linked below, trying to show the angle.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dx8rxhya2dyummc/AACODZtg41WU01YI-AxHtfAIa?dl=0

With the 2 tangs that are just below the mast for the lower shrouds...does
the upper tang hold the forward shroud and the lower one the aft? Mine are
apart and I was wondering which.
Thanks for helping,
Tom


On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 6:49 PM, Rodney Randow via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tom,
>
> My 33-1 spreaders are straight (no bend along length). If they are upward
> biased from mast perpendicular I do not remember from the last time I
> restepped the mast. Since the outboard spreader end fits into the rod's
> "dogbone" (spreader bend) fitting, I go with whatever the factory angle was
> -- original factory rigging and I know the rod was not reheaded. A previous
> reheading would increase the "upward angle" of the spreader -- probably not
> a good thing.
>
> Here is a link to a photo of my spreaders taken from the dock looking up.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/bxkg43xlih5hj78/C%26C33-1%20spreaders.JPG?dl=0
>
> Rod Randow
> C 33-1
>
>
> On 04/15/2017 02:30 PM, tom via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Stu,
> Can the following be posted on the CnC List?
>
> Mast, Turnbuckles and Spreader for C 33-1
> Hi Everyone,
> Having my mast down this season for rigging check and LED lights and
> wiring replacement the rod seems to be original as well as the turnbuckles
> and I have been advised to replace and not just re-head. While this is
> under consideration awaiting estimate, the spreaders come in to question.
> Showing a bit of looseness and shake (that might have been somewhat
> lessened by tightening the holding screws) when removed showed some bending
> and slight malformation of the spreader housing where it attaches to the
> mast fitting. What is questionable is there is a noticeable angle (10
> degrees or so) at the edge of both  spreaders where they attach to the mast
> fitting that would give the spreaders an upward bias.
> My question: is this angle along the length of the spreader supposed to be
> there or is the spreader supposed to be straight? If it is supposed to be
> straight is reforming ok to do or do they need replacement?
> Thanks much. Any help is appreciated, ,
> Tom Oryniak
> *Carry On* C 33-1
> Raritan Bay NJ
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
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>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Post question on CnC discussion list; now C 33-1 spreaders

[Rodney Randow via CnC-List]

Tom,

My 33-1 spreaders are straight (no bend along length). If they are 
upward biased from mast perpendicular I do not remember from the last 
time I restepped the mast. Since the outboard spreader end fits into the 
rod's "dogbone" (spreader bend) fitting, I go with whatever the factory 
angle was -- original factory rigging and I know the rod was not 
reheaded. A previous reheading would increase the "upward angle" of the 
spreader -- probably not a good thing.


Here is a link to a photo of my spreaders taken from the dock looking up.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bxkg43xlih5hj78/C%26C33-1%20spreaders.JPG?dl=0

Rod Randow
C 33-1


On 04/15/2017 02:30 PM, tom via CnC-List wrote:

Stu,
Can the following be posted on the CnC List?

Mast, Turnbuckles and Spreader for C 33-1
Hi Everyone,
Having my mast down this season for rigging check and LED lights and 
wiring replacement the rod seems to be original as well as the 
turnbuckles and I have been advised to replace and not just re-head. 
While this is under consideration awaiting estimate, the spreaders 
come in to question. Showing a bit of looseness and shake (that might 
have been somewhat lessened by tightening the holding screws) when 
removed showed some bending and slight malformation of the spreader 
housing where it attaches to the mast fitting. What is questionable is 
there is a noticeable angle (10 degrees or so) at the edge of both  
spreaders where they attach to the mast fitting that would give the 
spreaders an upward bias.
My question: is this angle along the length of the spreader supposed 
to be there or is the spreader supposed to be straight? If it is 
supposed to be straight is reforming ok to do or do they need replacement?

Thanks much. Any help is appreciated, ,
Tom Oryniak
/Carry On/ C 33-1
Raritan Bay NJ


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Re: Stus-List Post question on CnC discussion list

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Tom.
I'm no rigger but I too have a C 33-1. Also, ours is not the original mast so 
things are different and I do suggest you discuss this issue with a 
professional rigger. I believe the spreader should be angled up as you see on 
yours. The trick is to direct the load evenly from the shroud so there is no 
tendency for the spreader tip to move up or down or for it to buckle under 
load, and there is a lot of load. The reason the end needs to angled up is 
because the angle of the shroud above the spreader is smaller than that below 
the spreader. 
Dave.
SLY C 33-1

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 15, 2017, at 11:30 AM, tom via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Stu,
> Can the following be posted on the CnC List?
> 
> Mast, Turnbuckles and Spreader for C 33-1
> Hi Everyone,
> Having my mast down this season for rigging check and LED lights and wiring 
> replacement the rod seems to be original as well as the turnbuckles and I 
> have been advised to replace and not just re-head. While this is under 
> consideration awaiting estimate, the spreaders come in to question. Showing a 
> bit of looseness and shake (that might have been somewhat lessened by 
> tightening the holding screws) when removed showed some bending and slight 
> malformation of the spreader housing where it attaches to the mast fitting. 
> What is questionable is there is a noticeable angle (10 degrees or so) at the 
> edge of both  spreaders where they attach to the mast fitting that would give 
> the spreaders an upward bias. 
> My question: is this angle along the length of the spreader supposed to be 
> there or is the spreader supposed to be straight? If it is supposed to be 
> straight is reforming ok to do or do they need replacement?
> Thanks much. Any help is appreciated, ,
> Tom Oryniak
> Carry On C 33-1
> Raritan Bay NJ
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Post question on CnC discussion list

[Antoine Rose via CnC-List]

Hi Tom,
Yes, the spreader should be upward biased and 10 degrees is the correct angle. 
That is to ensure the angle formed between the spreader and the shroud are the 
same above and below the spreader.
Now, this angle is usually obtained through the fitting on the mast. I’m 
unclear from your post if you’re saying the spreader itself is bent, which is 
less desirable.

Antoine
C 30 Cousin
And now Alubat OVNI 36 too (recent acquisition)

> Le 15 avr. 2017 à 14:30, tom via CnC-List  a écrit :
> 
> Stu,
> Can the following be posted on the CnC List?
> 
> Mast, Turnbuckles and Spreader for C 33-1
> Hi Everyone,
> Having my mast down this season for rigging check and LED lights and wiring 
> replacement the rod seems to be original as well as the turnbuckles and I 
> have been advised to replace and not just re-head. While this is under 
> consideration awaiting estimate, the spreaders come in to question. Showing a 
> bit of looseness and shake (that might have been somewhat lessened by 
> tightening the holding screws) when removed showed some bending and slight 
> malformation of the spreader housing where it attaches to the mast fitting. 
> What is questionable is there is a noticeable angle (10 degrees or so) at the 
> edge of both  spreaders where they attach to the mast fitting that would give 
> the spreaders an upward bias. 
> My question: is this angle along the length of the spreader supposed to be 
> there or is the spreader supposed to be straight? If it is supposed to be 
> straight is reforming ok to do or do they need replacement?
> Thanks much. Any help is appreciated, ,
> Tom Oryniak
> Carry On C 33-1
> Raritan Bay NJ
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List Post question on CnC discussion list

[tom via CnC-List]

Stu,
Can the following be posted on the CnC List?

Mast, Turnbuckles and Spreader for C 33-1
Hi Everyone,
Having my mast down this season for rigging check and LED lights and wiring
replacement the rod seems to be original as well as the turnbuckles and I
have been advised to replace and not just re-head. While this is under
consideration awaiting estimate, the spreaders come in to question. Showing
a bit of looseness and shake (that might have been somewhat lessened by
tightening the holding screws) when removed showed some bending and slight
malformation of the spreader housing where it attaches to the mast fitting.
What is questionable is there is a noticeable angle (10 degrees or so) at
the edge of both  spreaders where they attach to the mast fitting that
would give the spreaders an upward bias.
My question: is this angle along the length of the spreader supposed to be
there or is the spreader supposed to be straight? If it is supposed to be
straight is reforming ok to do or do they need replacement?
Thanks much. Any help is appreciated, ,
Tom Oryniak
*Carry On* C 33-1
Raritan Bay NJ
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Stus-List Fwd: The C 27 - Contemporary Good Looks with Sharp, Crisp Lines

[Don Harben via CnC-List]

> From: "Practical Sailor" 
> Date: April 15, 2017 at 9:02:02 AM EDT
> To: sailadventu...@rogers.com
> Subject: The C 27 - Contemporary Good Looks with Sharp, Crisp Lines
> Reply-To: customer_serv...@belvoir.com
> 
> 
> 
> Subscribe now and save
> 
> The C 27 - Reviewed
>   
> Excerpted from Practical Sailor's ebook, Entry-Level Cruiser-Racers, Volume 1 
> 
> The C 27 followed quickly on the heels of the successful C 35. The design 
> is attributed to 1970, with the first boats coming off the line in 1971. The 
> boat evolved through three subsequent editions - the Mark II, III and IV (the 
> latter are hulls #915-#975, according to an owner) - with the latter 
> finishing in 1982. But the hull was essentially the same and not to be 
> confused with the MORC-influenced 27-footer that followed about 1984, with an 
> outboard rudder. That boat lasted until 1987. 
> 
> The C 27 is a good example of what made the company successful - 
> contemporary good looks with sharp, crisp lines that still appeal today. The 
> sheerline is handsome. Below the waterline, the swept back appendages are 
> dated but that's of little consequence to most owners. In the Mark I version, 
> the partially balanced spade rudder is angled aft, with a good portion of it 
> protruding behind the transom. In one of his reviews for Sailing magazine, 
> designer Robert described the C 27's rudder as a "scimitar" shape that was 
> "long in the chord and shallow." In 1974, the rudder was redesigned with a 
> "constant chord length and much greater depth and less sweep angle." 
> 
> The keel, too, was redesigned in 1974 though both are swept aft like an 
> inverted shark's fin. The new keel was given 2-1/2" more depth and the 
> maximum thickness moved forward to delay stalling. Hydrodynamic 
> considerations aside, the worst that can be said of the 27's keel is that it 
> takes extra care in blocking when the boat is hauled and set down on jack 
> stands (or "poppets" as they are called here in Rhode Island). Without a flat 
> run on the bottom of the keel, the boat wants to rock forward. 
> 
> The rig is a masthead sloop with a P or mainsail luff length of 28' 6" and an 
> E or foot length of 10' 6"; interestingly, this gives an aspect ratio of .36, 
> nearly identical to the .35 ratio of the Tartan 4100 reviewed last month. In 
> response to the September article on skinny masts with single lower shrouds, 
> the owner of a 1974 model wrote, "My 1974 C 27 has double lowers with a 
> tree trunk of a mast, which I know will support any headsail in any 
> condition, probably even if I drove the boat full steam into an immovable 
> object." Not so the earliest models. 
> 
> The owner of a 1977 model wrote to say that the Mark I and II models had 
> shorter rigs and more ballast. The change occurred in 1974, along with 
> several others, some of which we've already noted. 
> 
> Length overall was first given as 27' 4"; for later "marks" it is listed as 
> 27' 11". Waterline length started at 22' 2", increasing to 22' 11". The bow 
> overhang is attractive, but more than is found on most boats nowadays. 
> Remember that waterline length directly affects speed. 
> 
> Displacement, too, changed over the years, between 5,180 pounds, 5,500 pounds 
> and 5,800 pounds. (The owner of hull #54 says that boats before #250 were 
> 1,000 pounds heavier.) Depending on which waterline dimension you use, the 
> displacement/ length ratio (D/L) ranges from 211 to 237. The sail/area 
> displacement ratio (SA/D) is between 17.3 and 19.4. With moderate 
> displacement and a generous sail plan, the C 27 is fleet. PHRF ratings for 
> the Mark I average around 200 seconds per mile, dropping to about 190 for the 
> Mark II and 175 for the Mark III. 
> 
> From the C & C 27 review. To read the complete review of this popular 
> sailboat, in addition to thirteen other entry-level cruisers, purchase and 
> download the ebook Entry-Level Cruiser-Racers, Volume One from Practical 
> Sailor. For a list of the boats reviewed, and details on Volume One of this 
> series, click here.
> 
> Buy Now
> 
> 
> 
> You are currently subscribed to Practical Sailor as: 
> sailadventu...@rogers.com.
> Send this e-newsletter to a friend: Click here
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Re: Stus-List Need Advice

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

The Allen screws in the cutlass bearing are set screws.  You don't grease
the cutlass bearing.

>From the Max-Prop owner's manual:  To grease the Max-prop, remove the
forward most set screw from the spinner using a #3 metric Allen wrench.
Screw in a zerc tower, attach your grease gun and fill the propeller with
grease until the grease starts to come out between the hub and the
spinner.  Replace the set screw and remove the set screw from the more aft
hole.  Reinstall the zerc tower, attach your grease gun and fill the
propeller with grease until the grease starts to come out between the
blades and the spinner,  Remove the zerc tower and reinsert the set screw
into the propeller.  Do not leave the zerc tower in the propeller.

With each pump of the grease gun, rotate the propeller forward to reverse
to allow the grease to work through the propeller.  The company recommends
Lubriplate 130AA grease.

*DO NOT USE TEFLON GREASE, AS IT WILL WASH OUT VERY QUICKLY.*
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 7:47 AM, Larry via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I hope this is not a stupid question
>
> I am 4 years new to sailing. I own a 1986 38-ft CnC.
>
> I decided to paint the bottom of my boat, change the zincs and lube the
> maxi prop myself this year. I noticed that the cutlass bearing has four
> allens screws that look exactly like the screws in the maxi prop. I was
> wondering does the cutlass get greased. The zerk fitting will screw right
> in the cutlass housing. A friend that has over 40 years sailing experience
> did not know. He said give it a try. I am not sure that is the best
> approach. So am turning to cnc-list. Any and all advice is welcome.
>
> Thanks
>
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>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Need Advice

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Larry,

No need to lubricate the cutless bearing.   They are water lubricated.  
The allen screws are what help to hold it in place.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 4/15/2017 10:47 AM, Larry via CnC-List wrote:


I hope this is not a stupid question

I am 4 years new to sailing. I own a 1986 38-ft CnC.

I decided to paint the bottom of my boat, change the zincs and lube 
the maxi prop myself this year. I noticed that the cutlass bearing has 
four allens screws that look exactly like the screws in the maxi prop. 
I was wondering does the cutlass get greased. The zerk fitting will 
screw right in the cutlass housing. A friend that has over 40 years 
sailing experience did not know. He said give it a try. I am not sure 
that is the best approach. So am turning to cnc-list. Any and all 
advice is welcome.


Thanks



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Stus-List Need Advice

[Larry via CnC-List]

I hope this is not a stupid question

I am 4 years new to sailing. I own a 1986 38-ft CnC. 

I decided to paint the bottom of my boat, change the zincs and lube the maxi 
prop myself this year. I noticed that the cutlass bearing has four allens 
screws that look exactly like the screws in the maxi prop. I was wondering does 
the cutlass get greased. The zerk fitting will screw right in the cutlass 
housing. A friend that has over 40 years sailing experience did not know. He 
said give it a try. I am not sure that is the best approach. So am turning to 
cnc-list. Any and all advice is welcome.

Thanks

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Stus-List Practical Sailor write-up

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

For anyone who’s interested, Practical Sailor just issued an article on the C 
27.


Matthew L. Wolford 
638 West Sixth Street 
Erie, PA 16507 
(814) 459-9600 (Office) 
(814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
(814) 392-5599 (Cell) 

The information contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is intended 
for the personal and confidential use of the designated recipient(s). This 
communication may be an attorney-client communication, attorney work product, 
or otherwise privileged, confidential, or protected from disclosure under 
applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized agent, 
you are hereby notified that you have received this communication in error, and 
that any review, dissemination, distribution, copying of, use of, or reliance 
upon this communication is prohibited. If you believe this communication was 
sent to you in error, do not read it. Please reply to the sender that you 
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Stus-List Mast Re-Wire -- Need Advice

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Hi Pete,


I am in the process of doing this right now on Windstar , and so far it is
easier than I expected.


I am:

-replacing my RG58 with RG 213.

-removing the existing multiconductor cabling and replacing with single
conductor wire.  Existing cable was getting pretty battered by the exit,
jacket takes up space, and conductors were bare copper not tinned.  (BTW,
not an issue here on Lake ON after 30 years)

-replacing OE nav lights with Marinebeam LED

-probably will leave out the cabling for the spreader lights.  Neither I
nor the PO used them.

-may run a length of compact coax for a masthead FM antenna.   Just 'cuz.

- I will add a wind instrument, probably next season and will have to
revisit at least part of this at that time


On the 33-ii the wires are run  inside a plastic raceway that mates with a
flange extruded into the inside of the mast.This both complicates and
simplifies things.   Does the 30-2 not have some sort of integral
raceway/conduit for wiring?   The rats' next you describe suggests sounds
like an "improvement" by a prior owner.


I am finding it easier to simply re-do, and fish an entire cable bundle
rather than try to fish one cable at a time.   This solves the stiff coax
challenge and prevent jams snags and frustration.   For that coax, I will
try to exit at my upper spreader slot, and loop down to the antenna.
Failing that I will drill a hole below the antenna and neatly dress the
cable.


Sequence of steps is key  I have spent more time pondering than doing,
and the pondering is time well spent.


Dave



*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *kelly
petew via CnC-List
*Sent:* Monday, April 10, 2017 5:02 PM
*To:* cnc-list
*Cc:* kelly petew
*Subject:*




Hello Listers,

First, some background --

Earlier this year, I had the mast extracted from *Siren Song*, my 30-2.
The rigger has completed his work, replacing the rod rigging and fittings,
and rebuilding my Harken furler.

Also, I just finished painting the mast and spreaders with a one-part paint.



Now, I want to rewire the mast.  Preparatory to the extraction, I labeled
the wires, marked fittings and blocks, and took MANY pics on my tablet.

I have removed the old VHF cabling, but I was unsuccessful in replacing it
with LMR-400 [.405" dia.].  For other 30-2 owners, I found [*the hard way*]
that it was too stiff and too big to fit.  I could only get it about 40%
down the mast before it became hopelessly stucked.  Therefore, I have
removed it, and re-ordered original type of cabling [rg-8x, .25"
diameter].

I was hoping to get the enhance performance from the lmr cabling, but it
won't happen, unfortunately.  I will replace the vhf antenna.



Now, I'm planning to replace electrical wires as well as light fixtures.

In doing a preliminary inspection, I found a "*rat's nest*" of wiring just
below the mast's exit hole, which lines up with the underside of the deck
when the mast is in the boat.  It looks as though excess wiring was simply
pushed DOWN into the mast, and over time sagged further down [but still
beyond arm's length from mast's bottom].



Any "*tips and tricks*", including the best tools to use for re-wiring the
electricals will be greatly appreciated, i.e., extracting the old stuff and
installing the new.



Fair Winds,



Pete W.

Siren Song

'91 C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.
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Re: Stus-List racing a C 24 (Doug Ellmore

[Dave S via CnC-List]

> "The C 24 came with a little 2 burner Coleman style propane stove. I
> don't plan to cook much on her.  But, I would like a good approach to heat
> water for freezer bag food and beverages"
>
>


> Keep the coleman stove, and use it on the dock or in the cockpit if you
> are cooking.  Can use it below if needed.   We had a propane coleman stove
> in our 22' boat years ago, we cruised a lot, and this was a great approach,
> particularly because it was designed to be used in a breeze (lid,
> windguards) .  We had a portable BBQ also, and used both a small refillable
> tank and disposable cylinders when needed  For a small boat with out
> sniffers, solenoids, etc, this was a great and safe application of the KISS
> principle.   (also, you really don't need the cooking heat, grease and
> humidity below decks in a boat that size on a rainy humid day... dock or
> picnic table is better.)  Writing this, it occurs to me that a
> naptha-fuelled coleman stove might be even better for this use.
>
> Get two really good stainless steel vacuum bottles (thermoses) for hot
> water.   I built a rack in Windstar (C 33-2) for two identical Nissan
> bottles, and these things are great.  (not all are equal and you'd be
> amazed how much better some are than others, despite appearing to be very
> similar.) They keep the water scalding hot for over 24hrs, and using two
> has obvious advantages.  MUCH safer than managing a kettle or stove under
> way, and my kids can safely make instant noodles while bashing to windward.
>
> Keep a small, light electric kettle aboard.   This is to fill the
> thermoses pre-departure with a minimum of fuss, but also a simple way
> prepare instant food without firing up the stove, as well as for boiling
> water for dishwashing etc ashore should you wish.
>
> Check out the Aeropress for coffee. ;-)  I also use a French press, and
> one of my two thermoses is usually used for coffee.
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
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Stus-List d...@ellmore.net

[Dave S via CnC-List]

"The C 24 came with a little 2 burner Coleman style propane stove. I
don't plan to cook much on her.  But, I would like a good approach to heat
water for freezer bag food and beverages"

Keep the coleman stove, and use it on the dock or in the cockpit if you are
cooking.  Can use it below if needed.   We had a propane coleman stove in
our 22' boat years ago, we cruised a lot, and this was a great approach,
particularly because it was designed to be used in a breeze (lid,
windguards) .  We had a portable BBQ also, and used both a small refillable
tank and disposable cylinders when needed  For a small boat with out
sniffers, solenoids, etc, this was a great and safe application of the KISS
principle.   (also, you really don't need the cooking heat, grease and
humidity below decks in a boat that size on a rainy humid day... dock or
picnic table is better.)  Writing this, it occurs to me that a
naptha-fuelled coleman stove might be even better for this use.

Get two really good stainless steel vacuum bottles (thermoses) for hot
water.   I built a rack in Windstar (C 33-2) for two identical Nissan
bottles, and these things are great.  (not all are equal and you'd be
amazed how much better some are than others, despite appearing to be very
similar.) They keep the water scalding hot for over 24hrs, and using two
has obvious advantages.  MUCH safer than managing a kettle or stove under
way, and my kids can safely make instant noodles while bashing to windward.

Keep a small, light electric kettle aboard.   This is to fill the thermoses
pre-departure with a minimum of fuss, but also a simple way prepare instant
food without firing up the stove, as well as for boiling water for
dishwashing etc ashore should you wish.

Check out the Aeropress for coffee. ;-)  I also use a French press, and one
of my two thermoses is usually used for coffee.


Dave
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Stus-List Instrument Displays turning dark

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

FYI.  A couple of years ago a guy who had circumnavigated mentioned to 
me that his B instrument displays were turning dark.   My old Nexus-2 
displays were doing the same.  I actually swapped displays around 
because the most important multifunction for me is the one over the 
companionway.


I discovered that if the back-light was on I could see them during the 
day.  That worked for the one at the nav station, so I put the darkest 
display there.  The one at the helm I just disconnected.


My gut feeling, after observation, was that constant UV was corrupting 
the polarizing coating.


After a couple of years, I have noticed that the display is again clear 
in the nav station.  I also put those little plastic covers over the 
displays over the companionway.  Perhaps the polarizing coating can heal 
itself.  I dunno... still watching and learning. I left the covers off 
because I was always moving, but my performance cruiser seems to have 
become a performance dock condo.  It's all her fault.


Anyway, right now I think it's a good idea to keep the covers on.

I don't know why they put polarizing coatings on the instruments.  We 
all wear polarizing sunglasses.  In combination, you end up twisting 
your head around just to read the display.


Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com
facebook.com/wally.stellablue
facebook.com/svstellablue t


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Stus-List Signet Marine Electronics Components - www.BoatList.org

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Hi all,

 

If anyone is looking for Signet Marine electronics components please check out: 
http://theboatlist.org/awpcp/5-2/21/signet-marine-electronics-components/harvard/ma/usa/electronics-navigation-radar.
  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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