Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement 35-1

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Like Neil says, removing the tank is not difficult.  Last time I pulled
mine took less than an hour.  I needed to get to the strut bolts.

The concern is the elbow on the fill hose.  If you damage it, replacement
may be difficult.  Gates makes an elbow that can be cut to fit but you may
need a coupling or nipple to make it work.

If your fill hose is original, I STRONGLY suggest you replace it.  It is
well past its useful life.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 8:42 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hervey,
>
> Getting it out was not too difficult,  the tank fits out through the
> lazarette under the starboard seat.  My tank was held in place by two
> galvanized steel straps, corrosion from which caused the leak. Hardest part
> was undoing the fill and vent connections, had to get to them through the
> panel at the aft end of the port quarter berth.
>
> As someone mentioned in a recent post, getting the fill hose back on was a
> pain.  If I recall there's an elbow just off the tank connection, little
> bit of a struggle to make it tight.  I used fabric straps to hold the new
> plastic tank down.  My tank gauge has never worked so I just look through
> the wall of the tank to see the level.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Maybe I am unlucky, but I never had any of these pumps last longer than a 
couple-three times.

Marek

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Persuasion37 via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 9, 2017 21:39
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search

Denis

I use a cheap transfer pump operated by a drill.  Pumps 5 gals in a couple of 
minutes.  No more trying to for fuel through a funnel and no spills.  Can pump 
a jerry can dry, less than a tbsp.  Now you purist hush.  I'm pumping diesel.  
Been doing it for 4 years.

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Sep 8, 2017, at 12:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:

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Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement 35-1

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Hervey,

Getting it out was not too difficult,  the tank fits out through the 
lazarette under the starboard seat.  My tank was held in place by two 
galvanized steel straps, corrosion from which caused the leak. Hardest 
part was undoing the fill and vent connections, had to get to them 
through the panel at the aft end of the port quarter berth.


As someone mentioned in a recent post, getting the fill hose back on was 
a pain.  If I recall there's an elbow just off the tank connection, 
little bit of a struggle to make it tight.  I used fabric straps to hold 
the new plastic tank down.  My tank gauge has never worked so I just 
look through the wall of the tank to see the level.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 9/9/2017 9:28 PM, Hervey Machen via CnC-List wrote:

Neil,
Curious as to how you removed the fuel tank on your 35-1, as I've been 
concerned about our tank, but looks like a daunting task to remove the 
tank.

Hervey Machen
Ciothog 35-1, #115
Solomons MD


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Stus-List Fuel tank replacement 35-1

[Hervey Machen via CnC-List]

Neil,
Curious as to how you removed the fuel tank on your 35-1, as I've been
concerned about our tank, but looks like a daunting task to remove the tank.
Hervey Machen
Ciothog 35-1, #115
Solomons MD
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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Steve, 
  A timely thread.  Until yesterday I was watching it with a ho hum attitude.  
  Yesterday while prepping to move boat to a race venue 10 miles away, a crew 
said, what's the diesel smell?  
  Long and short, didnt move boat, pumped diesel from bilge...pin hole leaks in 
bottom of tank, original aluminum.  So, either fix it now or fix it at 
inopportune time...
Bill Walker 1981 CnC 36
Pentwater, Mu

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, September 9, 2017 robert via CnC-List  
wrote:
Steve:

Appreciate the advice.genuinelyhowever, I am the type of guy 
that tries to get out in front of trouble/problems before they become 
sameI am O.K. managing crisis.I just like to avoid it in the 
first place. My fuel tank is approaching 34 years, probably aluminum, 
however, I do believe it will fail (probably a slow leak around the 
welded joints where the tank sits on top of the wooden platform like 
another C lister here today) . So if this is a possibility, why not 
get out in front when you have the time to plan, shop around and get 
exactly what you want for the price you are willing to pay, and avoid 
the possibility of a fuel leak at the most inopportune time. My slip 
neighbors would not like me pumping diesel fuel from my bilge, which is 
a likely scenario when these things happen during the sailing season.

Yes, the boat is old, however, it is in great condition because I bought 
it that way from the original owner in 2006 and I have maintained it 
that way since. I fellow club member with a 1984 C 32 had his mixing 
elbow crack mid season.when the engine was on, it was spewing salt 
water but more importantly, gases (e.g. CO) He lost a month sailing 
until he got someone to replace it. The following Fall after haulout, I 
replaced my mixing elbow, muffler, exhaust hosesI did the work 
myself and it was not an easy job..old boat but new parts that wear 
out and therefore peace of mind. I put a new anchor light on the mast 
top this Spring but I never anchor..why?because it is there and 
it should work should I decide to overnight anchor.

I understand a small leak won't stop me from boating/sailing, however, I 
don't want to experience a small fuel leak and the smell of diesel in my 
boat if I can avoid it. And I know my tank is clean.I just changed 
my primary and secondary fuel filters and they were very 
clean.hadn't been changed in 8 years.that's how confident I am 
in the fuel in the tank and the cleanliest of the tank.

My brother has a new 33' sailboat and it almost sank this Summer because 
his new boat had a cracked retaining nut on the raw water 
strainer..until it was replaced he had to close the thru hull or the 
boat would fill up with water. his automatic/electric bilge pump 
worked fine until his battery(s) capacity expired. So even a new boat 
can leave you short of peace of mind.

Bottom lineevery year the old boat gets something done to it so I 
can have a stress free sailing season.the fuel tank's time has come 
I thinkthat is my next project and when it is finished, I will feel 
good.

Again, greatly appreciate all the input from the people 
hereinvaluable to me as a boat owner.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2017-09-09 11:40 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
> The whole boat is old. If new is the criterion for peace of mind, then you 
> need a new boat. Not leaking and you are not departing on a world trip, then 
> I wouldn't worry about it. If a leak ever develops it is unlikely to start 
> out big and it won't stop you from getting home.
> What can suddenly stop you is guk in the bottom of the tank getting sucked up 
> in rough weather. Water in the fuel can cause that in a relatively short 
> time. The hole for the fuel sender is big enough to take a look inside. Guk 
> is a bigger problem down south, and a lot of people install dual filter 
> systems as a precaution. One clogs, switch to the other. Also, a screen at 
> the end of the pick up tube is likely to clog if guk in the tank gets shook 
> loose by rough weather. It is not just a southern problem. It happened to a 
> friend of mine who was heading south from Chester NS. Had to get towed into 
> Liverpool. Couldn't sail it in the prevailing weather. Better to get rid of 
> the screen and rely on the primary filter. Your choice what to worry about 
> and where to spend your time and money. Same caveat on free advice applies.
>
> Steve.
>
>  robert via CnC-List  wrote:
> For $200, I would simply forget putting the old tank back in even after
> a good inspection.just the peace of mind is worth $200plus my
> labor which can be obtained for adequate amounts of beer.
>
> Now, can I buy a new fuel tank locally or do I have to order from afar?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2017-09-08 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>> Keep in mind that pitting 

Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Denis

I use a cheap transfer pump operated by a drill.  Pumps 5 gals in a couple of 
minutes.  No more trying to for fuel through a funnel and no spills.  Can pump 
a jerry can dry, less than a tbsp.  Now you purist hush.  I'm pumping diesel.  
Been doing it for 4 years.

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Sep 8, 2017, at 12:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Touche' came with a decent fuel funnel with fine screen in the bottom.  I 
> think it's an old EZ-John funnel.  Used it for years but it is very slow.  
> Not fun holding a 5 gallon diesel can for 10 minutes while the fuel drains so 
> slow.
> 
> I bought one of the Mr. Funnel F3 fuel funnels.  While it passes the diesel 
> much quicker, you're left with a couple ounces of diesel in the funnel.  The 
> design is such that any water would be left in this small residual.
> 
> It's a pain to deal with that couple ounces left in the funnel's sump.  I 
> usually carefully remove the funnel, put the old funnel in the fill fitting 
> and pour it in there.  Now I'm left with two wet funnels.
> 
> I've searched the Internet for a fuel filter funnel that doesn't have the 
> water trapping sump design.  I see Mr. Funnel, Racor and others but they all 
> have the water trapping sump.
> 
> I'm about to mix up a batch of epoxy and fill the sump up to the bottom of 
> the filter screen but that seems like an aggressive solution.  I have a Racor 
> 500 to trap water so I'm not overly concerned about removing water.
> 
> Any slick ideas out there?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Marek,
After fueling, I hold hose vertical so fuel drains.  After waiting about 15
seconds, I coil hose about 8" diameter, wrap in absorbent towel and store
in Ziploc bag.
Ron

On Sep 9, 2017 7:35 AM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Ron,
> What do you do with the wet fuel hose after the transfer. There is always
> some diesel left in it.
>
> Marek
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 140, Issue 42

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Fred

Abrasions on Awlgrip can be a problem.  If you look on their website there's 
information of repairing damage to the surface, but it is a huge undertaking.  
I had a modicum of success with dock abrasions by using a kit from the auto 
parts store I had laying around that was for polishing headlights that have 
become hazy.  Since the abrasion did not get through the clear surface coat, I 
thought I was worth a try.

I skipped the coarser disks and took it easy.  Slowly worked up to the finest 
abrasives, 2000 paper.  Polishing compound to finish it off.  Then a few coats 
of Awlcare. Almost disappeared...at least to everyone but me.

I think this was what I used... 
https://www.amazon.com/advanced-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B074MHQ3P9/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8=1505000712=8-1=3M+Auto+Advanced+Headlight+Restoration+System

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> On Sep 9, 2017, at 2:54 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2017 14:53:45 -0700
> From: Fred Hazzard 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull paint
> Message-ID:
>

Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull paint

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

My Awlgrip 14 yrs old and looks good except for some light dock rash.  I'd
like to polish out these surface blemishes. What should I do or not do?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland,Or

On Sep 9, 2017 9:21 AM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> AwlCare is good stuff.  I use it on Touche's 4 year old Awlcraft 2000
> paint about every 6 months.  It's very easy to apply and polish.  Can do
> entire boat in about 2-3 hours.  Nice shine when done.  Recommended.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 11:06 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> The instructions for maintaining the new paint job are to wash regularly
>> with fresh water, and annually with a product sold by the paint company.
>> (Awlcare?). The guy who did my paint job says the special stuff really
>> isn’t necessary, though it might be a good idea after the paint job is a
>> few years old.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Fuel Tank

[robert via CnC-List]

Steve:

Appreciate the advice.genuinelyhowever, I am the type of guy 
that tries to get out in front of trouble/problems before they become 
sameI am O.K. managing crisis.I just like to avoid it in the 
first place.  My fuel tank is approaching 34 years, probably aluminum, 
however, I do believe it will fail (probably a slow leak around the 
welded joints where the tank sits on top of the wooden platform like 
another C lister here today) .  So if this is a possibility, why not 
get out in front when you have the time to plan, shop around and get 
exactly what you want for the price you are willing to pay, and avoid 
the possibility of a fuel leak at the most inopportune time.   My slip 
neighbors would not like me pumping diesel fuel from my bilge, which is 
a likely scenario when these things happen during the sailing season.


Yes, the boat is old, however, it is in great condition because I bought 
it that way from the original owner in 2006 and I have maintained it 
that way since.  I fellow club member with a 1984 C 32 had his mixing 
elbow crack mid season.when the engine was on, it was spewing salt 
water but more importantly, gases (e.g. CO)   He lost a month sailing 
until he got someone to replace it. The following Fall after haulout, I 
replaced my mixing elbow, muffler, exhaust hosesI did the work 
myself and it was not an easy job..old boat but new parts that wear 
out and therefore peace of mind.  I put a new anchor light on the mast 
top this Spring but I never anchor..why?because it is there and 
it should work should I decide to overnight anchor.


I understand a small leak won't stop me from boating/sailing, however, I 
don't want to experience a small fuel leak and the smell of diesel in my 
boat if I can avoid it.  And I know my tank is clean.I just changed 
my primary and secondary fuel filters and they were very 
clean.hadn't been changed in 8 years.that's how confident I am 
in the fuel in the tank and the cleanliest of the tank.


My brother has a new 33' sailboat and it almost sank this Summer because 
his new boat had a cracked retaining nut on the raw water 
strainer..until it was replaced he had to close the thru hull or the 
boat would fill up with water. his automatic/electric bilge pump 
worked fine until his battery(s) capacity expired.   So even a new boat 
can leave you short of peace of mind.


Bottom lineevery year the old boat gets something done to it so I 
can have a stress free sailing season.the fuel tank's time has come 
I thinkthat is my next project and when it is finished, I will feel 
good.


Again, greatly appreciate all the input from the people 
hereinvaluable to me as a boat owner.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2017-09-09 11:40 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

The whole boat is old. If new is the criterion for peace of mind, then you need 
a new boat. Not leaking and you are not departing on a world trip, then I 
wouldn't worry about it. If a leak ever develops it is unlikely to start out 
big and it won't stop you from getting home.
What can suddenly stop you is guk in the bottom of the tank getting sucked up 
in rough weather. Water in the fuel can cause that in a relatively short time. 
The hole for the fuel sender is big enough to take a look inside. Guk is a 
bigger problem down south, and a lot of people install dual filter systems as a 
precaution. One clogs, switch to the other. Also, a screen at the end of the 
pick up tube is likely to clog if guk in the tank gets shook loose by rough 
weather. It is not just a southern problem. It happened to a friend of mine who 
was heading south from Chester NS. Had to get towed into Liverpool. Couldn't 
sail it in the prevailing weather. Better to get rid of the screen and rely on 
the primary filter. Your choice what to worry about and where to spend your 
time and money. Same caveat on free advice applies.

Steve.

 robert via CnC-List  wrote:
For $200, I would simply forget putting the old tank back in even after
a good inspection.just the peace of mind is worth $200plus my
labor which can be obtained for adequate amounts of beer.

Now, can I buy a new fuel tank locally or do I have to order from afar?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-09-08 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Keep in mind that pitting may be on the inside from water in the
fuel/condensation.

A new plastic tank is under $200.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:00 PM, robert via CnC-List
> wrote:

 That's what it looks likealuminum, rounded corners, welded
 ends.I have yet to actually measure it but I am guessing it it
 approx. 24" wide, maybe 20" deep and 18" height..I think it is
 the original 20 gallon tank that sits on an open wooden frame
 (ends on the wooden ledge(s) ) with most of the bottom

Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Rejex is the only polish I have seen that will get you through a canal or any 
brackish water without getting a mustache. It is nothing short of amazing.
http://www.rejex.com/rejex.html


Regards,
Bill Coleman  C 39

 Original message 
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
Date: 9/9/17  12:20  (GMT-05:00) 
To: CnClist  
Cc: "Dennis C."  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain 

AwlCare is good stuff.  I use it on Touche's 4 year old Awlcraft 2000 paint 
about every 6 months.  It's very easy to apply and polish.  Can do entire boat 
in about 2-3 hours.  Nice shine when done.  Recommended.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 11:06 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 wrote: The instructions for maintaining the new paint 
job are to wash regularly with fresh water, and annually with a product sold by 
the paint company. (Awlcare?). The guy who did my paint job says the special 
stuff really isn’t necessary, though it might be a good idea after the paint 
job is a few years old.  

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Awlgrip

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the awlgrip replies. Helps a lot.

Lisle
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Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Had mine painted red in the mid-eighties and was great looking for twenty or 
more years.  Last couple of years it's been looking kinda dull.  Time to 
repaint after thirty plus years.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


  From: "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List" 
 To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Lisle Kingery, PhD" 
 Sent: Friday, September 8, 2017 5:43 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain
   
Hi all, 

I've come across this interesting 1990 c 30 mark ii but the hull has been 
painted with awlgrip. 
http://www.boats.com/sailing-boats/1990-c-c-fiberglass-30-6259222/#.WbMazdEpCfA

>From what I'm reading about thisnpaint looks good for a couple years but then 
>can be a real PITA and expensive long term. I searched the forum for related 
>posts but didn't find much. Thoughts on whether folks think it's a really bad 
>idea to have this paint on the hull? 
Apparently the broker thinks this is one of the last 30 mark iis of it's era 
made and it has a universal diesel.
Thanks,
Lisle___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

AwlCare is good stuff.  I use it on Touche's 4 year old Awlcraft 2000 paint
about every 6 months.  It's very easy to apply and polish.  Can do entire
boat in about 2-3 hours.  Nice shine when done.  Recommended.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 11:06 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> The instructions for maintaining the new paint job are to wash regularly
> with fresh water, and annually with a product sold by the paint company.
> (Awlcare?). The guy who did my paint job says the special stuff really
> isn’t necessary, though it might be a good idea after the paint job is a
> few years old.
>
>
>
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Lisle;

 

My 41 year old 38 just had her second paint job last fall. The previous one
was over 20 years old, and looking a bit worse for wear - but had gotten
very little maintenance in the 14 years since I bought her.

 

The instructions for maintaining the new paint job are to wash regularly
with fresh water, and annually with a product sold by the paint company.
(Awlcare?). The guy who did my paint job says the special stuff really isn't
necessary, though it might be a good idea after the paint job is a few years
old. 

 

I have to say, that's a lot less maintenance than a wax job on gelcoat every
3 to 6 months.. Or even the annual New Glass refresh I do on my 25.

 

And, unless the photos of the 30 that you posted are quite old, it appears
the boat is VERY shiny and the paint job should last a long time.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47

la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 9, 2017 7:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain

 

I agree with Bruce. My ex C 24 had the hull awlgripped before I bought it.
I had it for 8 years and had no problems. No waxing needed. Just wash every
spring. And looks great. Not to mention that it seals the hull better than
gelcoat. 

 

Marek 

1994 c270 Legato

Ottawa, Ontario 

 

 

 Original message 

From: bwhitmore via CnC-List  > 

Date: 9/8/17 19:57 (GMT-04:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: bwhitmore  > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain 

 

I had a 1977 27 for 16 years that was awgripped before I bought her in 2000.
Looked great, tough as all get out and got compliments right up until the
day I sold her.  Clean it up well and apply Poliglow.  Better than Gelcoat
IMHO.  

 

Bruce Whitmore 

1994 C 37/40+

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Had a similar experience to Gary when I repowered my 38 in 2010.

Had noticed diesel smell, but could not find any leaks in the lines or
fittings. While the engine was out I pulled the old tank to get access for
another project and discovered several pinholes in the bottom of the 20
gallon aluminum tank where it sat on the plywood platform and moisture
collected. I guess I wasn't too surprised or disappointed in finding the
leaks - after all, the old OEM tank had been in place for 35 years.

I replaced the old tank with a 22 gallon monel tank that had come from a gas
powered boat that had been converted to diesel. The tank was cheap and it
fit on the platform. A local machine shop added a fitting to the top of the
tank for about $25, so the whole experience was pretty cheap - probably
under $100. I went to Lowes and bought a small sheet of neoprene (maybe
4"x6"?) gasket material and made some 1" square rubber pads to put between
the new(ish) tank and the wood platform.

And, BTW, both my OEM tank and the monel tank had a threaded collar in the
top for a 1 1/2" pipe fitting. I put in a 90 degree elbow th handle the
transition from horizontal hose to vertical fill.

Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47
Washington, NC

  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 9, 2017 10:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

My 1980 version was 19 gallons and made of aluminum. Last year, it started
weeping - small leak I couldn't find. Pulled it out and found a whole bunch
of tiny pinholes in the bottom where it rested on the plywood.




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Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Our hull is Awlgripped, probably 10 or more years ago. When we washed it
this spring I was asked by several people if we had just had the boat
painted, it still looks that good.

Awlgrip lasts a very long time.

Don't wax it and do not put Poly Glow on it, just clean it now and then.

Ken H.

On Saturday, 9 September 2017, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I agree with Bruce. My ex C 24 had the hull awlgripped before I bought
it.  I had it for 8 years and had no problems. No waxing needed. Just wash
every spring. And looks great. Not to mention that it seals the hull better
than gelcoat.
> Marek
> 1994 c270 Legato
> Ottawa, Ontario
>
>  Original message 
> From: bwhitmore via CnC-List 
> Date: 9/8/17 19:57 (GMT-04:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: bwhitmore 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain
> I had a 1977 27 for 16 years that was awgripped before I bought her in
2000.  Looked great, tough as all get out and got compliments right up
until the day I sold her.  Clean it up well and apply Poliglow.  Better
than Gelcoat IMHO.
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+
> Dodging Irma...
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>  Original message 
> From: "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List" 
> Date: 9/8/17 6:42 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Lisle Kingery, PhD" 
> Subject: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain
> Hi all,
>
> I've come across this interesting 1990 c 30 mark ii but the hull has
been painted with awlgrip.
>
http://www.boats.com/sailing-boats/1990-c-c-fiberglass-30-6259222/#.WbMazdEpCfA
>
> From what I'm reading about thisnpaint looks good for a couple years but
then can be a real PITA and expensive long term. I searched the forum for
related posts but didn't find much. Thoughts on whether folks think it's a
really bad idea to have this paint on the hull?
> Apparently the broker thinks this is one of the last 30 mark iis of it's
era made and it has a universal diesel.
> Thanks,
> Lisle
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

The whole boat is old. If new is the criterion for peace of mind, then you need 
a new boat. Not leaking and you are not departing on a world trip, then I 
wouldn't worry about it. If a leak ever develops it is unlikely to start out 
big and it won't stop you from getting home. 
What can suddenly stop you is guk in the bottom of the tank getting sucked up 
in rough weather. Water in the fuel can cause that in a relatively short time. 
The hole for the fuel sender is big enough to take a look inside. Guk is a 
bigger problem down south, and a lot of people install dual filter systems as a 
precaution. One clogs, switch to the other. Also, a screen at the end of the 
pick up tube is likely to clog if guk in the tank gets shook loose by rough 
weather. It is not just a southern problem. It happened to a friend of mine who 
was heading south from Chester NS. Had to get towed into Liverpool. Couldn't 
sail it in the prevailing weather. Better to get rid of the screen and rely on 
the primary filter. Your choice what to worry about and where to spend your 
time and money. Same caveat on free advice applies. 

Steve. 

 robert via CnC-List  wrote: 
For $200, I would simply forget putting the old tank back in even after 
a good inspection.just the peace of mind is worth $200plus my 
labor which can be obtained for adequate amounts of beer.

Now, can I buy a new fuel tank locally or do I have to order from afar?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-09-08 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
> Keep in mind that pitting may be on the inside from water in the 
> fuel/condensation.
>
> A new plastic tank is under $200.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:00 PM, robert via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
>
> That's what it looks likealuminum, rounded corners, welded
> ends.I have yet to actually measure it but I am guessing it it
> approx. 24" wide, maybe 20" deep and 18" height..I think it is
> the original 20 gallon tank that sits on an open wooden frame
> (ends on the wooden ledge(s) ) with most of the bottom
> exposedthe bottom that is exposed looks fine but it is what I
> can not see that I would like to inspect.it's the welded ends
> on the bottom where the tank fits on the wooden frame that is my
> concern.
>
> The boat was in fresh water for its first 21 years.well
> maintainedsince I have owned it, the fuel tank is in a salt
> water environment but the tank has not been subjected to salt
> water on it.
>
> Empty it, remove it, clean it, inspect it.then make a decision
> about replacing it.  I may have just decided on a plan.
>
> Will keep you informed.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
>
> On 2017-09-08 4:08 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
>
> The standard tanks are aluminum, rounded corners, welded ends.
> It it looks like that, then that is what it is. Otherwise
> there was such a thing as special customer orders. I looked at
> at 35 once that had a cylindrical monel tank. Don't know it it
> was original or not, but it appeared to have been there for a
> while.
>
> Up to you, but I would remove it, clean it really good, and
> inspect it very carefully before making a decision to replace
> it. If salt water has been kept away the condition might
> surprise you.
>
> Advice is worth exactly what you pay for it.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
> C
> Merritt Island, FL
>
>  robert via CnC-List  > wrote:
> I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
> metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure
> what the
> fuel tank was made from?
>
> Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
> inspecting it and possibly replacing it.
>
> Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options? Where
> would I
> obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?
>
> Any and all input greatly appreciated.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our
> members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
> costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our
> members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
> 

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Agreed with Dennis. Be careful when you measure the old tank. Mine had the 
filler tube coming out of the tank on the top but then had a right angle in the 
filler tube which the filler hose fit over. I had a bear of a time finding a 
Moeller tank which fit, because they have the filler tube coming straight out 
of the top and not bent. I ended up with a smaller tank to fit under the 
cockpit sole, because of the difficulty in bending the filler hose (stiff as 
hell with wire inside) from near horizontal to vertical. Moeller has a wide 
selection.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 8, 2017 5:03 PM
To: robert 
Cc: Dennis C. ; CnClist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

 

That was my point.  For $200 it isn't worth putting a decades old tank back in. 
 

 

When I bought Touche', it had a steel tank.  A buddy of mine gave me an almost 
new aluminum tank of the same profile.  I installed it.  After 4 years I 
repowered and put in a plastic tank.  The aluminum tank was showing signs of 
pitting and corrosion after only 4 years.

 

Accurately measure the old tank, the clearance above it and get an idea of 
space around it.  Go to Moeller's site and figure out the best fit.  My guess 
is a 19 gallon Moeller Marine 032519 but make sure.

 

You can find them online easily.  eBay even has them.

 

Dennis C.

 

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:24 PM, robert  > wrote:

For $200, I would simply forget putting the old tank back in even after a good 
inspection.just the peace of mind is worth $200plus my labor which can 
be obtained for adequate amounts of beer.

Now, can I buy a new fuel tank locally or do I have to order from afar?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S. 

On 2017-09-08 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Keep in mind that pitting may be on the inside from water in the 
fuel/condensation. 

 

A new plastic tank is under $200.

 

Dennis C.

 

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:00 PM, robert via CnC-List  > wrote:

That's what it looks likealuminum, rounded corners, welded ends.I have 
yet to actually measure it but I am guessing it it approx. 24" wide, maybe 20" 
deep and 18" height..I think it is the original 20 gallon tank that sits on 
an open wooden frame (ends on the wooden ledge(s) ) with most of the bottom 
exposedthe bottom that is exposed looks fine but it is what I can not see 
that I would like to inspect.it's the welded ends on the bottom where the 
tank fits on the wooden frame that is my concern.

The boat was in fresh water for its first 21 years.well maintainedsince 
I have owned it, the fuel tank is in a salt water environment but the tank has 
not been subjected to salt water on it.

Empty it, remove it, clean it, inspect it.then make a decision about 
replacing it.  I may have just decided on a plan.

Will keep you informed.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.





On 2017-09-08 4:08 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

The standard tanks are aluminum, rounded corners, welded ends. It it looks like 
that, then that is what it is. Otherwise there was such a thing as special 
customer orders. I looked at at 35 once that had a cylindrical monel tank. 
Don't know it it was original or not, but it appeared to have been there for a 
while.

Up to you, but I would remove it, clean it really good, and inspect it very 
carefully before making a decision to replace it. If salt water has been kept 
away the condition might surprise you.

Advice is worth exactly what you pay for it.

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C
Merritt Island, FL

 robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the
fuel tank was made from?

Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
inspecting it and possibly replacing it.

Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I
obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?

Any and all input greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My 1980 version was 19 gallons and made of aluminum. Last year, it started
weeping - small leak I couldn't find. Pulled it out and found a whole bunch
of tiny pinholes in the bottom where it rested on the plywood.

Look for Mueller tanks (Plastic) on Amazon. I did and ended getting mine
from an RV place in New Jersey. Better price but had to pay shipping. It
turned out to be the same cost overall.

Gary

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 8, 2017 10:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Tank

I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is 
metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the 
fuel tank was made from?

Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and inspecting
it and possibly replacing it.

Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I
obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?

Any and all input greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Ron,
What do you do with the wet fuel hose after the transfer. There is always some 
diesel left in it.

Marek
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I agree with Bruce. My ex C 24 had the hull awlgripped before I bought it.  I 
had it for 8 years and had no problems. No waxing needed. Just wash every 
spring. And looks great. Not to mention that it seals the hull better than 
gelcoat.

Marek
1994 c270 Legato
Ottawa, Ontario


 Original message 
From: bwhitmore via CnC-List 
Date: 9/8/17 19:57 (GMT-04:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain

I had a 1977 27 for 16 years that was awgripped before I bought her in 2000.  
Looked great, tough as all get out and got compliments right up until the day I 
sold her.  Clean it up well and apply Poliglow.  Better than Gelcoat IMHO.

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+

Dodging Irma...



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 Original message 
From: "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List" 
Date: 9/8/17 6:42 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Lisle Kingery, PhD" 
Subject: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain

Hi all,

I've come across this interesting 1990 c 30 mark ii but the hull has been 
painted with awlgrip.

http://www.boats.com/sailing-boats/1990-c-c-fiberglass-30-6259222/#.WbMazdEpCfA

>From what I'm reading about thisnpaint looks good for a couple years but then 
>can be a real PITA and expensive long term. I searched the forum for related 
>posts but didn't find much. Thoughts on whether folks think it's a really bad 
>idea to have this paint on the hull?

Apparently the broker thinks this is one of the last 30 mark iis of it's era 
made and it has a universal diesel.

Thanks,

Lisle
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!