Re: Stus-List Re-Patriating Canadian born C’s

2019-04-16 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hi Bill,

If a product is brought over for commercial purposes only the GST is required. 
The person importing the product will fill out the appropriate customs form, I 
cannot remember the number off hand, but the importer requires a business 
number, they are essentially acting as a broker.

My current C is my third boat brought into Canada, two were by road, my C 
by water. The boat is like a used car. The government is going to collect tax 
on it. What I did to make life easier. I purchased the boat (Maine USA), took 
the bill of sale to my local DMV (New Brunswick), Paid the HST and registered 
the boat with New Brunswick. Went back to Maine and readied the boat for 
sailing to New Brunswick. When I arrived in Canada, I called CANPASS to declare 
my arrival into Canada. Normally they will meet you at the dock, but in my case 
they cleared me into Canada via phone call. It is a lot easier when the boat is 
Canadian registered and you are the only one on board.

The most you should pay tax wise is HST on your bill of sale.

Cheers,

Tom

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2019 3:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-Patriating Canadian born C’s


Just spoke with the prospective purchaser, and he says he has heard it is 
cheaper if it is trucked into Canada instead of floated in. Something to do 
with it  being a commercial import with a lower tax rate, instead of personal.

That just seems nutz.

Of course, all the tariffs and such are in such a state of flux right now, 
Probably tough to get the same answer twice from the same person.

So simple to just scoot right through the Welland Canal.



Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2019 9:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-Patriating Canadian born C’s



Thanks for the replies –

This would be being delivered by water to Ontario



Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Wright 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2019 3:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-Patriating Canadian born C’s



Here in BC, there is a 12% PST on boats, unless purchased from a GST registrant 
(dealer), in which case it is 7% PST. Paying GST at the border will qualify you 
for the lower 7% rate, see below. In any case, it seems doubtful that there 
would be any concession for re-patriating a boat to BC based on these 
ridiculous tax laws. About the only way to reduce tax that I've ready about is 
to list items not normally attached to the boat separately, with item values, 
on a bill of sale. This means dinghy, outboard, BBQ, etc.



From:

https://www2.gov.bc.ca/assets/gov/taxes/sales-taxes/publications/pst-108-boats.pdf



"If you bring a boat into BC from outside Canada, you must pay PST at the rate 
of 7% on the

taxable value of the boat. The taxable value is the value of the boat as 
determined under the

Excise Tax Act (Canada). The Canada Border Services Agency may collect the PST 
due

when you bring the boat into Canada. If not, you must self-assess the PST due 
(see Paying

PST below)."



On Mon, Apr 15, 2019 at 12:48 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

You will have to pay the GST (at the border (or before) or they won’t let you 
through). If you have HST in your province, you will pay that. If you don’t 
have HST, then you will have to pay PST. You better pay it promptly; provinces 
are notorious for being slow, but they WILL find you (they came after me after 
3 years from crossing the border with a gentle proposal to pay a hefty fine, 
but I had the documents showing that the tax was paid).



Marek

Ottawa, ON



From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2019 20:09

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Russ & Melody

Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-Patriating Canadian born C’s



Hi Bill,

When I brought Sweet into Canada from the Seattle area there was GST @ 7% to 
pay but no import duty.

The GST is applicable to almost everything once a person's little exemption 
limit is reached.

The import duty was waived due to NAFTA being in place and that year (2003) the 
C head office was in the USA.

Cheers, Russ
ex- Sweet, 35 mk-1



At 10:14 AM 4/14/2019, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 boundary="=_NextPart_000_154E_01D4F2C4.06F3F4B0"
Content-language: en-us

It seems I remember some discussion years ago about the Tax consequences of a 
C being reduced when a Canadian Made  C was returned from USA to Canada,
Does anyone know if the GST or whatever the taxes there are affected or reduced?


Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA


Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

2019-04-09 Thread T power via CnC-List
Contact Zephyerwerks, that guy can fix you up if it is fixable.

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, April 9, 2019 6:38 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

FYI as I recall the Gaurhaure snach blocks are only about $100 and have a 
lifetime warranty.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Apr 9, 2019, 5:15 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
With all due respect, the stainless straps on the side were only slightly bent 
and remain plenty strong.  The pin, on the other hand, may be structurally 
compromised.  This is why I asked for information (not a lecture).  I’m not 
going to buy a $500 (or so) block when it can be repaired with a $15 (or so) 
pin.

From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2019 4:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question


“Fixing” bent snatch blocks???  Really??  Bending it back into shape?  Finding 
replacement pins for 30 year old blocks that are twisted and falling apart?  
You need to consider metal fatigue and once stainless steel is bent without 
applying heat, it is severely compromised.

I’m as cheap as the next sailor (well maybe not the Canadian ones…) but once a 
piece of critical hardware gives up and gets bent out of shape, it finds its 
way into the scrap heap and gets replaced because I don’t depend on damaged 
hardware to get me home safely..  Maybe because I love my children and my wife 
and want to see them again.   Just for the record, if the snatch block lets go 
under load and kills someone or severely injures a crew member, I hope you have 
enough liability insurance because it will not be something you can pin on a 
company that has been out of business since 1989.

If you have a single piece of electronic gadgetry or cookware on your boat that 
costs more than a snatch block and have limited financial resources, I suggest 
you sell them and buy the new hardware that you need.  And yes, I am well aware 
that new snatch blocks are expensive..it’s for good reason!

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 9, 2019 2:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@verizon.net>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question



Lay it under my keel, I will take a look at it. I can probably beat it back 
into shape. Might cost you a beer or two, tho.

I used to repair Merle’s Merrimans, and now of course I own them.



Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA[animated_favicon1]



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2019 1:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question



Listers:



I have an old Merriman snatch block in need of repair.  It was under load 
last season and not properly closed, which caused it to open and bend the 
stainless straps (on the sides) and the pin holding it together.  I believe I 
can bend the stainless straps back more or less into alignment.  However, the 
pin is bent and in need of replacement.  The pin used by Merriman for this 
block is stainless, 2 1/2 inches long (I’m guessing 5/16 diameter) with a head 
on one end and internal threads on the other.  It is held together by a machine 
screw that screws into the threaded end.  I suppose I could use a stainless 
bolt, but that would not be very elegant.  Any ideas?





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Re: Stus-List Mast Wire Question

2019-03-11 Thread T power via CnC-List
That is interesting. I have a 30 MKI and there is no "Ground" or bonding wire 
up the mast. I'm under the impression the mast will bond with the step. On my 
mast step there is a provision for a bolt that connects to my bonding set up.

Could it be for something like SSB?


Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Steven A. Demore 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 12:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steven A. Demore
Subject: Stus-List Mast Wire Question


I have the mast of my C 30 MK1 down for rebuild right now.  Just replaced the 
wiring and found a cable I’m not sure about.  It is a heavy gauge stranded 
single conductor wire, maybe 1/8 or 3/16, with a thick red insulation on it.  
If I had to guess, a heavy ground wire.  There is about 20 feet of cable coiled 
at the base of the mast and it goes all the way to the top of the mast, where 
it just sticks out 6 or 12 inches.

Did these boats have lightning rods or something originally?  Is there 
something that a big ground wire would do that a 45 foot hunk of aluminum 
wouldn’t do?  I’m afraid to ask this one, as it is probably a religious 
argument, but should the mast (or a lightning rod??) be grounded to a keel bolt 
or something?  If there is supposed to be a lightning rod, does anybody have a 
picture of one and how it is mounted?



Thanks,
Steve



SV Doin’ It Right
1973 C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD


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Re: Stus-List Fresh water flush...

2019-02-12 Thread T power via CnC-List
I'm doing this now to my 30 MKI. I plan to isolate the tank in the v berth and 
use it for the electric flush.

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of David via CnC-List 

Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2019 2:31 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List Fresh water flush...

Adding a third water tank.   Thought I would plumb in fresh water flush with 
backflow protection from third tank to conventional head.  Anybody try that?

>From my Android

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Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

2019-01-19 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hi Bruce,

I was thinking of using a Samsung tablet also. Do you happen to sail offshore, 
If so are you still able to run a Nav program in real time when out of range of 
cell and wifi?

Cheers,

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bruce Whitmore via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2019 9:43 AM
To: Rick Brass via CnC-List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

Hello all,

I am going to mildly disagree with the statements about tablets having to be 
cellular capable.  I have an old (2014) Samsung Galaxy 10.1 tablet that is wifi 
only, and it has GPS capability that I have used on my boat.

So while that statement might be right for other makes and models, it is not 
correct for my tablet.

Kindest Regards,

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net



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Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

2019-01-19 Thread T power via CnC-List
I was just going to ask the question if I could use a Samsung tablet, they are 
half the price of the i pads. The tablet is going to be a backup. Basically I 
want to plan my route off ship. Be able to transfer the route to my chart 
plotter either Bluetooth, I also like the idea of having the tablet mirror the 
chart plotter while under way.

Cheers.

Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Rick Brass via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2019 12:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation


As has been pointed out before, you do not need to actually activate the 
cellular service on the tablet, it just needs to be cellular capable. That’s 
because the cellular capable units have an internal GPS, which the WiFi only 
units do not. Now, if you have a WiFi network on your boat and it can transmit 
data from your GPS, then you don’t even need cellular capability.



I use an old Gen3 IPad with the cell service not activated. I carry it with 
when I do boat deliveries. It is the only chart plotter on those rare occasions 
when I sail my 25. It was the defacto chart plotter for the schooner that I was 
captain of, and was the original chart plotter on the 83 foot tour boat I work 
on.



But have you thought about buying another brand of tablet? My IPad was a gift, 
so I’ve used it for the past 10 or 11 years. But I was in process of getting a 
Samsung Galaxy tablet (on the recommendation of my son in law, who is an IT 
guy) when I was given the IPad. The Samsung tablet is waterproof and shock 
proof… and well less than half the cost of a new IPad.



Rick Brass

Washington, NC







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil E. 
Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2019 11:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Neil E. Andersen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation



Tom,



The provider decision should be based on who has the best coverage for the 
areas that you sail in.  I’m on the Chesapeake Bay (Eastern Shore) and AT 
coverage is really bad unless and until you get in range of the Western Shore.

Neil

Neil Andersen
1982 C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com<mailto:neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com>

n...@sjyachts.com<mailto:n...@sjyachts.com>





From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of T power via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2019 7:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: T power mailto:sv_invic...@outlook.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Tablet for navigation



Hi,

I would like to use an ipad mini 2 with the navionics app to plan and use for 
nav purposes on my boat, this will back up my chart plotter and paper charts.



I read that to use the Navionics app on the water to purchase an ipad that has 
cellular capability.



So I'm looking at Best buy and see ipads with 4G AT, Verizon, etc...



So my Question is; Does it matter what provider is noted because I'm only using 
the cellular for the Navionics app?



Thanks for any help.



Cheers,



Tom



Tom Power

Invictus

C 30 MK1

Fredericton, NB
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Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

2019-01-15 Thread T power via CnC-List
Dan that open cpn setup looks really cool, I may try it out when the time 
comes, Lol I so new to side electronic that I just learned through you guys 
that I could go the Android route.

I primarily want it to do route planning while on land, be able to send it to 
my chartplotter, so I think I need one with an SD and usb slot.

Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2019 7:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

I recently got an Acer 9.6 tablet for $160 CAD for travel, and eventually to 
use with Navionics or similar. I used it for a month in Costa Rica (where I 
tethered it to the data on my cell phone - 30 days/2Gb data for $20!) for email 
and GPS with google maps (we rented a car for 2 weeks) and it worked great. I 
bought this unit because it has two USB ports and a micro SD slot - I added 
another 64Gb storage, and I also used one of the USB ports to charge my cell 
phone via a micro USB to USB adapter, which also allows me to plug in an SD 
card reader for photo downloads. Not the most powerful tablet, but I like 
having the extra ports, so I only need to carry one USB wall charger to charge 
two devices.

I haven't tried Navonics yet, but may try Open Plotter first...

On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 10:37 AM Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Tom,

As noted the Apple products have the GPS chip tied to the cell system - thus 
requiring you buy a more expensive cellular enabled unit.


Another option is Android tablets.  For $160 cdn you can get an Acer 8" screen 
Android tablet at Costco, or $230 for a 9.6" screen Samsung - neither has cell 
capacity but both should have the GPS capacity you're looking for.  Cheaper 
than the iPad.  Of course there are other Android options that rival the iPad 
costs - some even with built in waterproofing.


I use a couple older tablets for my navigation - download maps and info with 
WiFi when I'm at home.  They do come with one challenge that I've noticed - 
harder to find good cases for some of these tablets because they don't have the 
sales numbers of Apple.


Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2019-01-14 9:23 p.m., T power via CnC-List wrote:
Awesome, thanks, much appreciated

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf 
of Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2019 9:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

To add to Joel’s comment, the iPad must be cellular capable (not all of them 
are).  Joel is correct that you need not activate the cell plan.

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2019 7:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Joel Aronson<mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

Tom

No. You don’t need to activate the cell plan. The GPS antenna is shared with 
the cell antenna in the iPad.

On Mon, Jan 14, 2019 at 7:51 PM T power via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi,
I would like to use an ipad mini 2 with the navionics app to plan and use for 
nav purposes on my boat, this will back up my chart plotter and paper charts.

I read that to use the Navionics app on the water to purchase an ipad that has 
cellular capability.

So I'm looking at Best buy and see ipads with 4G AT, Verizon, etc...

So my Question is; Does it matter what provider is noted because I'm only using 
the cellular for the Navionics app?

Thanks for any help.

Cheers,

Tom

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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--
Joel
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

2019-01-14 Thread T power via CnC-List
Awesome, thanks, much appreciated

Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2019 9:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

To add to Joel’s comment, the iPad must be cellular capable (not all of them 
are).  Joel is correct that you need not activate the cell plan.

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2019 7:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Joel Aronson<mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

Tom

No. You don’t need to activate the cell plan. The GPS antenna is shared with 
the cell antenna in the iPad.

On Mon, Jan 14, 2019 at 7:51 PM T power via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi,
I would like to use an ipad mini 2 with the navionics app to plan and use for 
nav purposes on my boat, this will back up my chart plotter and paper charts.

I read that to use the Navionics app on the water to purchase an ipad that has 
cellular capability.

So I'm looking at Best buy and see ipads with 4G AT, Verizon, etc...

So my Question is; Does it matter what provider is noted because I'm only using 
the cellular for the Navionics app?

Thanks for any help.

Cheers,

Tom

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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--
Joel
301 541 8551


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Stus-List Tablet for navigation

2019-01-14 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hi,
I would like to use an ipad mini 2 with the navionics app to plan and use for 
nav purposes on my boat, this will back up my chart plotter and paper charts.

I read that to use the Navionics app on the water to purchase an ipad that has 
cellular capability.

So I'm looking at Best buy and see ipads with 4G AT, Verizon, etc...

So my Question is; Does it matter what provider is noted because I'm only using 
the cellular for the Navionics app?

Thanks for any help.

Cheers,

Tom

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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Re: Stus-List Propane hose

2019-01-10 Thread T power via CnC-List

Hi Bob and Fred, Thanks for the info, I never even thought about condensation 
in the locker. I have a 10 LB steel tank, I'm thinking this will be a problem, 
may have to switch to Aluminum.

Thanks for the info on the solenoid, I'm going to look for one. Great tip.

Cheers,

Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Robert Boyer via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2019 12:46 PM
To: Frederick G Street
Cc: Robert Boyer; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propane hose

Yes, I forgot that it was also a requirement.  Marinetics is the name of the 
solenoid manufacturer that uses aluminum and stainless steel for construction.  
It costs more than Trident but well worth it in my opinion.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com<http://dainyrays.blogspot.com>
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com<mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>
Annapolis, MD
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)

On Jan 10, 2019, at 9:47 AM, Frederick G Street 
mailto:f...@postaudio.net>> wrote:

Bob — actually, using two separate hoses is a requirement; it’s not safe to 
have any “taps” or tees outside of the propane locker, so all hoses must split 
after the solenoid in the locker and be continuous runs to the end point.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jan 9, 2019, at 10:15 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Personally, I would use two separate hoses for the devices, both led from the 
solenoid.  The Trident solenoid is cheap and rusts quickly—I prefer the made by 
(I can’t think of the name right now) but it is made of aluminum and stainless 
steel.  There is a lot of condensation that is created in a propane locker—this 
enables the heavy rusting.

I also really like the propane controls with the sensor(s) and alarms.  If you 
need more info, contact me off-list.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com<http://dainyrays.blogspot.com/>
email: dainyr...@icloud.com<mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>

On Jan 9, 2019, at 1:22 PM, T power via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Everyone, I have a propane question. I'm installing a Dickinson 
Mediterranean stove with oven and a Dickinson P9000 propane heater.

The hose needed for the stove is 12 feet, the hose needed for the heater is 21 
feet.

My question is will I have enough flow (volume) if I use 1/4 id hose verses 3/8 
id hose. The regulator I plan to use is a two stage Trident P/N 1220-1411.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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Re: Stus-List Propane hose

2019-01-10 Thread T power via CnC-List
Awesome, thanks for the info Eric, much appreciated.

Cheers.

Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of sender via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2019 4:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sender
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propane hose

The size of gas piping is based on an allowable pressure drop.  The regulator 
should be adjusted to deliver at 11" of water column (approx 0.4psi).  For 
propane appliances the allowable drop is 1".  The Canadian residential gas code 
I have has 3/8 copper tubing, this would be about 5/16 ID, so you'll have to 
extrapolate.  10' length allows 49 000 BTUs, 20' allows 34 000 BTUs and 30' 
allows 27 000 BTUs.

In other words, 2 separate 1/4" hoses manifolding at the regulator will work 
fine.

Eric

On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 2:05 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Good answer i agree quarter inch id should provide enough fuel to operate both 
simultaneously unless the outside temp is minus 10 or below
On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 4:56 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Tom — I had hoses made up when I added my Dickinson fireplace years ago; I’m 
pretty sure everything was 1/4” ID with 3/8” flare fittings.  I’ve got the 
usual three-burner range with over in the galley, in addition to the fireplace; 
no issues using them simultaneously.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jan 9, 2019, at 2:24 PM, T power via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Thanks josh and Doug for you thoughts. The issue I'm running into, it is 
extremely hard to find 3/8" id hose in the proper length. I'm in the process of 
building the propane locker, my plan is to have vapor tight fittings for the 
hose and wiring for the solenoid, the hoses will be complete from the tank to 
the appliance.

I can basically get any length I want in 1/4" id with 3/8" Female Flare 
fittings, I'm just not sure there will be enough volume for the appliance.

 I ordered a hose for the stove, I thought it was 3/8" id but turned out to be 
1/4" id with 3/8" Female Flare fittings on each end.

I guess if the hose does not supply enough volume I can order "custom made" 
hoses (very pricey) and swap them out. Any holes drilled will be the same 
diameter due to the size of the fittings, just a bit of a PITA,


Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of svrebeccaleah via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, January 9, 2019 4:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: svrebeccaleah
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propane hose

Hi Tom,
This from West Marine.

Supply Hoses<https://www.westmarine.com/lpg-hose-fittings>

To carry the gas from the regulator to the stove or heater, use LPG supply hose 
of the correct length. Note that while these hoses are only carrying 0.5 psi, 
they have a 350 psi working pressure rating, so they are dramatically stronger 
than they have to be. Each supply hose should run continuously from inside the 
propane tank enclosure to the appliance: this is not a case where you can chain 
a bunch of fittings together because you ended up a little short on hose. Use a 
Vapor-Tight Straight-Thru fitting where the hose exits your propane locker. 
Supply hoses connect to the propane appliance using a 3/8" female flare swivel 
and connect to the solenoid with a 3/8" male NPT adapter.

Doug Mountjoy
Sv Rebecca Leah
LH39
Port Orchard YC wa.

 Original message 
From: T power via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 1/9/19 10:22 (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: T power mailto:sv_invic...@outlook.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Propane hose

Hi Everyone, I have a propane question. I'm installing a Dickinson 
Mediterranean stove with oven and a Dickinson P9000 propane heater.

The hose needed for the stove is 12 feet, the hose needed for the heater is 21 
feet.

My question is will I have enough flow (volume) if I use 1/4 id hose verses 3/8 
id hose. The regulator I plan to use is a two stage Trident P/N 1220-1411.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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Re: Stus-List Propane hose

2019-01-09 Thread T power via CnC-List
Fred,

Thanks so much for the insight, much appreciated. I feel pretty competent now.

Cheers

Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Frederick G Street 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 9, 2019 4:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propane hose

Tom — I had hoses made up when I added my Dickinson fireplace years ago; I’m 
pretty sure everything was 1/4” ID with 3/8” flare fittings.  I’ve got the 
usual three-burner range with over in the galley, in addition to the fireplace; 
no issues using them simultaneously.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jan 9, 2019, at 2:24 PM, T power via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Thanks josh and Doug for you thoughts. The issue I'm running into, it is 
extremely hard to find 3/8" id hose in the proper length. I'm in the process of 
building the propane locker, my plan is to have vapor tight fittings for the 
hose and wiring for the solenoid, the hoses will be complete from the tank to 
the appliance.

I can basically get any length I want in 1/4" id with 3/8" Female Flare 
fittings, I'm just not sure there will be enough volume for the appliance.

 I ordered a hose for the stove, I thought it was 3/8" id but turned out to be 
1/4" id with 3/8" Female Flare fittings on each end.

I guess if the hose does not supply enough volume I can order "custom made" 
hoses (very pricey) and swap them out. Any holes drilled will be the same 
diameter due to the size of the fittings, just a bit of a PITA,


Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of svrebeccaleah via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, January 9, 2019 4:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: svrebeccaleah
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propane hose

Hi Tom,
This from West Marine.

Supply Hoses<https://www.westmarine.com/lpg-hose-fittings>

To carry the gas from the regulator to the stove or heater, use LPG supply hose 
of the correct length. Note that while these hoses are only carrying 0.5 psi, 
they have a 350 psi working pressure rating, so they are dramatically stronger 
than they have to be. Each supply hose should run continuously from inside the 
propane tank enclosure to the appliance: this is not a case where you can chain 
a bunch of fittings together because you ended up a little short on hose. Use a 
Vapor-Tight Straight-Thru fitting where the hose exits your propane locker. 
Supply hoses connect to the propane appliance using a 3/8" female flare swivel 
and connect to the solenoid with a 3/8" male NPT adapter.

Doug Mountjoy
Sv Rebecca Leah
LH39
Port Orchard YC wa.

 Original message 
From: T power via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 1/9/19 10:22 (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: T power mailto:sv_invic...@outlook.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Propane hose

Hi Everyone, I have a propane question. I'm installing a Dickinson 
Mediterranean stove with oven and a Dickinson P9000 propane heater.

The hose needed for the stove is 12 feet, the hose needed for the heater is 21 
feet.

My question is will I have enough flow (volume) if I use 1/4 id hose verses 3/8 
id hose. The regulator I plan to use is a two stage Trident P/N 1220-1411.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



Re: Stus-List Propane hose

2019-01-09 Thread T power via CnC-List
Thanks josh and Doug for you thoughts. The issue I'm running into, it is 
extremely hard to find 3/8" id hose in the proper length. I'm in the process of 
building the propane locker, my plan is to have vapor tight fittings for the 
hose and wiring for the solenoid, the hoses will be complete from the tank to 
the appliance.

I can basically get any length I want in 1/4" id with 3/8" Female Flare 
fittings, I'm just not sure there will be enough volume for the appliance.

 I ordered a hose for the stove, I thought it was 3/8" id but turned out to be 
1/4" id with 3/8" Female Flare fittings on each end.

I guess if the hose does not supply enough volume I can order "custom made" 
hoses (very pricey) and swap them out. Any holes drilled will be the same 
diameter due to the size of the fittings, just a bit of a PITA,


Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of svrebeccaleah via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 9, 2019 4:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svrebeccaleah
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propane hose

Hi Tom,
This from West Marine.

Supply Hoses<https://www.westmarine.com/lpg-hose-fittings>

To carry the gas from the regulator to the stove or heater, use LPG supply hose 
of the correct length. Note that while these hoses are only carrying 0.5 psi, 
they have a 350 psi working pressure rating, so they are dramatically stronger 
than they have to be. Each supply hose should run continuously from inside the 
propane tank enclosure to the appliance: this is not a case where you can chain 
a bunch of fittings together because you ended up a little short on hose. Use a 
Vapor-Tight Straight-Thru fitting where the hose exits your propane locker. 
Supply hoses connect to the propane appliance using a 3/8" female flare swivel 
and connect to the solenoid with a 3/8" male NPT adapter.

Doug Mountjoy
Sv Rebecca Leah
LH39
Port Orchard YC wa.

 Original message 
From: T power via CnC-List 
Date: 1/9/19 10:22 (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power 
Subject: Stus-List Propane hose

Hi Everyone, I have a propane question. I'm installing a Dickinson 
Mediterranean stove with oven and a Dickinson P9000 propane heater.

The hose needed for the stove is 12 feet, the hose needed for the heater is 21 
feet.

My question is will I have enough flow (volume) if I use 1/4 id hose verses 3/8 
id hose. The regulator I plan to use is a two stage Trident P/N 1220-1411.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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Stus-List Propane hose

2019-01-09 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hi Everyone, I have a propane question. I'm installing a Dickinson 
Mediterranean stove with oven and a Dickinson P9000 propane heater.

The hose needed for the stove is 12 feet, the hose needed for the heater is 21 
feet.

My question is will I have enough flow (volume) if I use 1/4 id hose verses 3/8 
id hose. The regulator I plan to use is a two stage Trident P/N 1220-1411.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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Re: Stus-List Teak treads refinishing

2018-12-29 Thread T power via CnC-List
I did mine three years ago, here's what I did;

  *   scraped down to bare wood, two coats of epoxy (special clear).
  *Two coats of Ephanias gloss varnish.
  *   Taped off the stairs except where I wanted the treads, applied one coat 
of gloss varnish, sprinkled coarse salt. once dry I washed away the salt, 
leaving behind a clear skid pattern,
  *   Two more coats of gloss, followed by three coats of Pettit Sea Gold satin
  *   Plywood back (next to engine has three coats of epoxy primer and three 
coats of two part polyurethane whit paint

Stairs are still looking good and grippy when needed.

Cheers,

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Rod Stright via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2018 5:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rod Stright
Subject: Stus-List Teak treads refinishing


Has anyone refinished the teak stair treads going down to the main cabin from 
the companionway, if so what did you use and how well did it stand up to all 
the traffic.

Thanks

Rod

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Mugs

2018-12-12 Thread T power via CnC-List
I would be interested in two of them. Shipping to 04491 how can i pay.

Get Outlook for Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2018 3:05:43 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe; Robert Gallagher
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Mugs

Sure – how much to 21666?



Joe Della Barba
DCSI
410-966-7255



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
Gallagher via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2018 1:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Gallagher
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Mugs

I have 10 new old stock original C coffee mugs and a license plate frame 
boxed up and ready to be shipped.  They had been going to a list member in 
Canada but shipping proved to be too expensive.  Any interest?

Rob
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Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the keel!

2018-11-14 Thread T power via CnC-List
Wow, If I had the cash, it would be a great addition to our Veterans sailing 
camp, beautiful boat.

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2018 4:14 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the 
keel!

or the Diesel!  Maybe the guys in Detroit?

On Tue, Nov 13, 2018 at 1:53 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-35-mark/6725242249.html





Poor boat needs a new owner :(







Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C 35 MK I





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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Shackle for Genoa Sheets?

2018-11-07 Thread T power via CnC-List
I use a soft shackle, works awesome, no worry about chafe.

Cheers.

Get Outlook for Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, November 7, 2018 4:56:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-List Shackle for Genoa Sheets?

Listers,

Does anyone use a shackle for their genoa sheets instead of a knot? If so, how 
big? What type? What kind of breaking strength?

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log








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Re: Stus-List 29 Mk1 Rudder Repair

2018-11-02 Thread T power via CnC-List
Check out Andy from boatworks today on youtube. He explains in detail while 
pouring a new rudder.

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Paul via CnC-List 

Sent: Friday, November 2, 2018 9:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul
Subject: Stus-List 29 Mk1 Rudder Repair

Hi all,
Have dropped my rudder for crack repair on top and leading edge due to water 
ingress, and bushing replacement.
I have construction drawings that show the inner mild steel plate and gussets 
connecting to the stock.
Am wondering what weight of pourable foam to use. Based on what I have been 
reading it can range from 8-16 lbs.
Does anyone have experience doing this before and any recommendations on foam 
brand or weight?

Thanks

Paul D. Saxton
C 29 Mk 1 #658
Boomerang

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Re: Stus-List Update to "How long owned a C"

2018-10-05 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hi,

Thanks for doing the spreadsheet, really cool. If it is not too late could you 
please add the following;

1973 C 30 MK1
Invictus
Hull #150
FYC Fredericton NB
owned for two years, I have 3 years of sailing experience.

Cheers.

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Tom Sancton via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, October 5, 2018 4:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Sancton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Update to "How long owned a C"

Please add

1984. 35-3. #82.  Morning Light
DYC.   Dartmouth, NS
Tom Sancton
Owned 6 years, sailed 42
sancton@gmail.com

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 4, 2018, at 8:06 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>
> This is an update to the spread sheet (attached) from the replies to Jack's 
> request, in which I have added emails addresses.
>
> Please let me know by email, if you want to make corrections to the list.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Don Kern
> Fireball - 12708
> 1974 C 35 Mk2
> Bristol, RI 02809
>
> 
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>
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

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Re: Stus-List C 30 - Cowl vent flexible part

2018-09-24 Thread T power via CnC-List
That's an awesome idea!!

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jeffrey Nelson via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2018 6:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeffrey Nelson
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30 - Cowl vent flexible part

I made mine out of 4" white sewar pipe because my crew kept punting them 
overboard.  Oddly enough, since I've
replaced them, I have only had to replace 1 of the vents since (2 years 
now)...whereas when I was purchasing the rather expensive
vents, it was 2 or 3 a year.

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C 30
   Armdale Y.C.


On Sep 22, 2018, at 3:33 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Where did you get the flexible cowl only?  I only found the whole item and not 
the lost part.  I lost the two at the stern as well.

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL





On Thursday, September 13, 2018, 10:28:23 AM CDT, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



And, like Gary said, that cowl vent gets in the way.  Mine popped off and went 
overboard in some chaotic moment in a race this year, and I had to get a 
replacement.  Plus I’m always worried those anchor hangers are going to tear a 
sail, but so far so good.



Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO





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Re: Stus-List 30' mk1 cradle dimensions

2018-08-30 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hi Steve,

I made a cradle for my '73 C 30 MKI. I'm planning to pick it up this weekend 
to add a couple of extra stands. I can take some measurements for you. what are 
you exactly looking for?

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Steve Guiney via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2018 8:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Guiney
Subject: Stus-List 30' mk1 cradle dimensions

Does anyone have cradle dimensions for a 30' mk1 cradle?
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Re: Stus-List Lost my prop on 1978 C 30 mark 1, need some help replacing it.

2018-08-07 Thread T power via CnC-List
My 1973 cc30 mk1 has a 7/8" shaft. My engine is a gas atomic 4 . prop is r/h 
rotation 11.5 x 8 x 7/8" 2 blade folding prop. Gori props can size you up 
pretty quick. Good luck

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From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jeremy Cox via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2018 6:59:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Cox
Subject: Stus-List Lost my prop on 1978 C 30 mark 1, need some help replacing 
it.

Hi, I have a 2QM15 Yanmar and the prop came off when I hit a log yesterday.

Can anyone tell me what prop diameter I should be looking for as well as the 
pitch and shaft size?

or where I could find that info?

thanks
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Re: Stus-List Fun Sailing Videos

2018-07-25 Thread T power via CnC-List
My favs are;

Sailing Uma
Coast Life
Bums on a boat
Another Adventure
Adventure Adrift

They keep me sane during the winter months.

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From: CnC-List  on behalf of James Bibb via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 5:05:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: James Bibb
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fun Sailing Videos

Im with you!

Janes Bibb
C 34-36r Darwin’s Folly

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 25, 2018, at 12:03 PM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Am I the only one who sits up late on week nights sailing vicariously through 
others' YouTube  videos? (while usually knocking back a few cold ones)

My favorites are:

  *   S/V Delos - explores cultures of the world aboard a 53' Amel Super Miramu 
2000 with 6 aboard
  *   Abandon Comfort - young couple casting off in pursuit of minimalism
  *   Another Adventure - Key West minimalist sailor, series is in it's infancy
  *   Sailing LaVagabond - couple sailing the world aboard 45' new Otremer 
catamaran donated by the manufacturer
  *   Sailing Zingaro - minimalist couple DIY fix-it
  *   More daily...

Of course we sail every Thursday and at least every other weekend, so there's 
that. More cruising soon.

Anyone else?

--
Tim Rutherford
C 36 KCB Chamamé
DIYC Tampa, FL
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Re: Stus-List Roll pin size

2018-06-02 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hi Mike,


Thanks for the info and tip on getting them out, I'm definitely going to try 
pressing them out.


Cheers


Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of T power via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 8:44:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power
Subject: Stus-List Roll pin size


Hi everyone, I need to replace a foil on my elderly harken furler. They are 
joined with roll pins, which will need to be drilled out. Anyone have any idea 
what size they would be. Thanks for any help


Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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Stus-List Roll pin size

2018-06-01 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hi everyone, I need to replace a foil on my elderly harken furler. They are 
joined with roll pins, which will need to be drilled out. Anyone have any idea 
what size they would be. Thanks for any help


Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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Re: Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts

2018-05-18 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hi Matthew,


I would be interested in the jib feeder.


Cheers,


Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2018 12:08:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts

All:

So far I have about three or four requests for mostly screws from my old 
roller furler.  I will review the e-mail notes sometime next week, compare 
requests against what I have, and let you know if I think I can help.  That 
said, I reiterate that I no longer have the headstay foil.  It was cut up and 
recycled.  I now wish that I had saved the cut pieces until after I sent my 
initial e-mail, but I incorrectly assumed that the old foil pieces would have 
little value and not worth the time to deconstruct.  My bad – sorry.

 Matt

From: Garry Cross via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2018 10:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Garry Cross
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts

Mathew I have Series 1. The foil connectors have roll pins. If yours is the 
same, I need one as I broke one removing the mast.

Thanks.

- Forwarded message --
From: "Matthew L. Wolford" >
To: >
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Tue, 15 May 2018 13:42:09 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts
Listers:

Due to the inability to replace a broken torque tube, I am upgrading
from a Harken original roller furler (1980s vintage MK 1, but not called
that), Unit 2, to the newer Harken model.  The new one is nearly finished,
and I cut up/recycled the old foils.  Before I recycle the rest of the old
parts, does anyone have an interest in them (aside from the broken torque
tube)?  Please advise if you do.  Thanks.

Matt Wolford
C 42 Custom


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Re: Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts

2018-05-16 Thread T power via CnC-List
I'm missing the jib feeder on my Fuler, I would be interested in that for sure


Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 2:42:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts

Listers:

Due to the inability to replace a broken torque tube, I am upgrading
from a Harken original roller furler (1980s vintage MK 1, but not called
that), Unit 2, to the newer Harken model.  The new one is nearly finished,
and I cut up/recycled the old foils.  Before I recycle the rest of the old
parts, does anyone have an interest in them (aside from the broken torque
tube)?  Please advise if you do.  Thanks.

Matt Wolford
C 42 Custom


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Re: Stus-List C 30 Mast weight

2018-03-13 Thread T power via CnC-List
I have a 1 1/2 ton chin hoist that easily lifts my C 30 mast. I had two other 
people help me move the mast so I would approximate the mast to be maybe 300 
lbs.


Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of gerald field via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2018 2:28:33 PM
To: C List
Cc: gerald field
Subject: Stus-List C 30 Mast weight

Does anyone have a idea of the approximate weight of the mast on a C 30. I am 
going to buy a chain hoist that i will mount on a frame for moving my mast from 
its winter stands onto a mast dolly at the club and i want to make sure i get a 
appropriately sized one.
Gerald Field
C 30 Vagabond
Midland Bay Sailing Club
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Stus-List Plumbing help

2018-01-26 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hello everyone:
I have a bit of an issue on my 1973 C 30 Mark 1. my forward water tank 
underneath the v-berth has two small pieces of copper pipe protruding from the 
tank, originally it had a hose attached to it that would lead to the pump and 
the faucets. I would like to change out the hose to PEX tubing, but I cannot 
figure out what size pex fitting to use. I have tried 3/8 15mm 1/2 inch with no 
success. Has anyone ever tried this or have any suggestions on what to do.
Any help is greatly appreciate it.

Cheers
Tom

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Re: Stus-List New lines and hayalards

2018-01-13 Thread T power via CnC-List
wow, thanks for all the responses, this gives me a pretty clear direction on 
replacing my sheets and haylards.


Cheers.


Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Gary Nylander via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2018 6:18:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List New lines and hayalards


I have the same boat – with spinnaker gear. I put three line locks on each side 
of the companionway (over where the panel is on the inside) to handle the lines 
I ran back.



I left the outhaul on the boom and the Cunningham on the mast.



On the port side, I have (outside in) the spinnaker halyard, two genoa 
halyards, and the Garhauer solid vang (fourth lock). The Spin halyard is 11mm 
VPC in solid green with a little red fleck.

The two genoa halyards are both white, one has red and blue flecks and other 
green. Both should be 10mm VPC, but one is old and probably Sta-Set X. The vang 
is all white (non high tech something maybe 8mm)



On the starboard side (outside in) is black Sta-Set 3/8 for the pole downhaul.

Next in is Blue 3/8 Sta-Set for pole lift.

Most inside is 3/8 T-900 (old stuff) for the main halyard. Rather stiff, but 
still works. It is white with a fleck (can’t remember it is off the boat right 
now under snow?)



I would think about putting the most used Genoa halyard on the starboard side 
because one person could be handling the genoa while someone else could be on 
the spinnaker – lots of elbows in a small area.







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of T power via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2018 6:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power <sv_invic...@outlook.com>
Subject: Stus-List New lines and hayalards



Hello everyone,



I'm thinking of replacing all of the sheets and halyards on Invictus, hoping 
for some insight.



Dennis of Touche posted a note about color designation that I thought was 
interesting but I forgot to copy it.



Looking for recommendations of size type and color of lines and halyards for a 
cruising sailboat that may enter a fun club race once in a while.



Thanks for any help,



Cheers.



Tom Power

Invictus

C 30 MK1

Fredericton, NB
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Stus-List New lines and hayalards

2018-01-11 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hello everyone,


I'm thinking of replacing all of the sheets and halyards on Invictus, hoping 
for some insight.


Dennis of Touche posted a note about color designation that I thought was 
interesting but I forgot to copy it.


Looking for recommendations of size type and color of lines and halyards for a 
cruising sailboat that may enter a fun club race once in a while.


Thanks for any help,


Cheers.


Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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Re: Stus-List Wrapping LifeSling with Sunbrella

2018-01-05 Thread T power via CnC-List
Im going to do the same thing. Check out sailrites video series. They show this 
step by step.

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From: CnC-List  on behalf of Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, January 5, 2018 2:57:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Stus-List Wrapping LifeSling with Sunbrella

All,

Its 20 degrees F in Annapolis.  I'm looking for indoor projects.  One is to 
wrap the LifeSling bag in Sunbrella before the bag disintegrates.

Any advice on an adhesive?

--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location

2017-12-30 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hi Steve,


My bilge pump exit is upper starboard side of the transom, I'm sure it is 
original as the boat only had one previous owner before me.


Cheers



Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Steven A. Demore 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2017 1:39:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steven A. Demore
Subject: Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location


Question for the C 30 MK1 owners.  Where does your bilge pump drain?  I 
picked up mu project boat last winter and they had the hose from the bilge pump 
connected to the vent fitting for the head holding tank.  I am putting the head 
back together and will need that vent, but I can’t figure out where the bilge 
pump would connected to a thruhull.



Thanks,

Steve



SV Doin’ It Right
1973 C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD


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Re: Stus-List Holiday wishes

2017-12-22 Thread T power via CnC-List
Merry Christmas and thanks helping this newbi with refitting my boat. This 
group is awesome.

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From: CnC-List  on behalf of bushmark4--- via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2017 10:39:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bushma...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holiday wishes

I second, ...or third... the notion!  We, here in the middle  (Ohio Valley) get 
what's left of the warm air that passes through Dennis' area and the leftover 
snow from Fred's region...making our winters just plain uglythat's why 
everyone wants to go visit Dennis!

Merry Christmas to all and a to all a short  winter!

Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 596; on the hard till spring!

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
To: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Sent: Thu, Dec 21, 2017 6:23 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holiday wishes

And the same from up here on “da frozen tundra”…   :^)

Best wishes for a great holiday season, and an even better 2018 sailing season.

And a special thanks to our benefactor Stu, who has kept this list going for 
all these years; remember him in your gift-giving this season.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Dec 21, 2017, at 4:28 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:

>From down here on "de bayou" we wish all a safe and happy holiday season.

Joyeaux Noel!

Let it sneaux!

Dennis C.
touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List new haylards

2017-12-10 Thread T power via CnC-List
Wow, thanks for all the insight on my halyard question, I really appreciate the 
help.

Being new to sailing, I think it would be very easy for me to pick an inferior 
product with drastic effects in unsavory weather, so again, thanks.


Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Nauset Beach via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2017 7:37:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nauset Beach
Subject: Re: Stus-List new haylards


A consideration:  If you have self tailing winches, the 8 mm may not hold in 
the winch and you have to hand tail.  A single person trying to grind the winch 
and tailing at the same time can be a challenge.



I have self tailing Barient 24’s for halyard winches and the 8 mm will not stay 
in the “jaws” of the self tailer.  They are adjusted as small as they can go.  
May just be my winches…



Brian



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2017 3:28 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List new haylards



With cover, 8mm would be my thought.  To go smaller, I'd consider stripped 
Dyneema.  Maybe 1/4 inch.



Dennis C.



On Sun, Dec 10, 2017 at 1:52 PM, Jim via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Dennis

Thanks for the info and pictures. Your set up looks like what I'm trying to 
achieve.

When you say a small diameter high tech halyard should work, what diameter 
where you thinking?  I purchased 8mm VPC (but have not tried it).

I'm reluctant to go much smaller as it may be hard to hold / pull on.

Thanks again  for the pictures, I am going to take a closer look at my end to 
see what is possible.

Cheers, James

ps: my 35-1 is s/n 75 so very close to yours.
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Stus-List new haylards

2017-12-10 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hi Everyone,


I'm looking to replace my foresail and headsail halyard on my C 30 MKI, my 
foresail is a combination of wire and rope. The boat is used by new sailor for 
cruising.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Cheers


Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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Re: Stus-List Serial number

2017-10-24 Thread T power via CnC-List
Cool information, I gotta check mine out.

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jack Fitzgerald via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2017 10:48 AM
To: C
Cc: Jack Fitzgerald
Subject: Re: Stus-List Serial number

The H is for July. The boat was built in July of 1984 as a 1985 model.

We are now shipping new yachts and small boats from the USA with the last 3 
digits as 718. Built in 2017 as 2018 model year boats.

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY - C 39TM
US12788

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you


On Tue, Oct 24, 2017 at 9:39 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Last 3 digits of the HIN.  April 85

Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of steve dewar via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2017 9:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: steve dewar >
Subject: Stus-List Serial number

I just purchased a C 35 mkiii. The previous owner states it’s a 1985, but 
looking at the original paperwork, it could be a 1984. How do you tell by 
looking at the HIN #?
The number is ZCC 35154H485. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Thanks

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List fittings for water tank

2017-10-24 Thread T power via CnC-List
Thanks for the insight. I beleve they were ment for hose to slip over and 
clamp, that was orginally the setup. I,m going to see if i can order something.

I never heard of any expanding tool, that would also be another option.

Is there any issue using brass pex fittings in my boat?

Cheers.

Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/ghei36>


From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Ronald B. Frerker 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2017 1:05:52 AM
To: Danny Haughey via CnC-List
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker
Subject: Re: Stus-List fittings for water tank

Isn't there a tool you can rent that expands the pex which then has memory and 
returns to original size?  Seems I saw that on This Old House.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL


On Monday, October 23, 2017, 8:32:50 PM CDT, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hit send too soon.   Maybe you could get a pex by barb fitting and go with a 
short piece of hose from tank to the adapter then go pet from there.  I know, 
not ideal but could get you what you want...



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

 Original message 
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date: 10/23/17 9:24 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List fittings for water tank

You should be able to find a compression fitting that would work.  Plumbing 
pipe size is  the inside diameter.   Compression fittings go by outside 
diameter.  What is the tank made of?  The tubing sticking out may be meant for 
hose too go over and clamp





Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

---- Original message 
From: T power via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date: 10/23/17 5:08 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power <sv_invic...@outlook.com>
Subject: Stus-List fittings for water tank

Hi Everyone,

I have a question that I'm struggling with. I have a 1973 C 30 MKI, there is 
a water tank under the vee berth and under the starboard settee.

Both tanks have two small tubes protruding out about 2 inches. From I can see 
they look like copper tubing, I'm wanting to change the tubing over to 1/2 inch 
pex pipe. I ordered pex reducer fittings (3/8 to 1/2) to go over the copper 
tubing. When the fittings arrived the 3/8 size was too small and the 1/2 inch 
size was too big.

Not sure what to do. Anyone have any ideas on how to tackle this problem. 
Ultimately I would like to change everything to 1/2 inch pex. I looked at the 
tank and I think I would destroy it if I tried to take the copper fittings out.

Cheers,

Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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--  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!
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All contributions are greatly appreciated!


Stus-List fittings for water tank

2017-10-23 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hi Everyone,

I have a question that I'm struggling with. I have a 1973 C 30 MKI, there is 
a water tank under the vee berth and under the starboard settee.

Both tanks have two small tubes protruding out about 2 inches. From I can see 
they look like copper tubing, I'm wanting to change the tubing over to 1/2 inch 
pex pipe. I ordered pex reducer fittings (3/8 to 1/2) to go over the copper 
tubing. When the fittings arrived the 3/8 size was too small and the 1/2 inch 
size was too big.

Not sure what to do. Anyone have any ideas on how to tackle this problem. 
Ultimately I would like to change everything to 1/2 inch pex. I looked at the 
tank and I think I would destroy it if I tried to take the copper fittings out.

Cheers,

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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Re: Stus-List Garhauer Story...

2017-09-21 Thread T power via CnC-List
Really cool history.

Get Outlook for Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of John Irvin via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 12:25:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Irvin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garhauer Story...

Thanks for posting this.

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 18, 2017, at 10:47 AM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:

So I have been volunteering at the Marion-Bermuda Race for the past 10 years or 
so and the booth that is located right across from ours is Garhauer.  I would 
see folks manning the booth but was usually too busy to think much more of it 
as we were busy fielding our own visitors.

Well this past Sunday I find myself talking with a gentleman at our booth that 
was from Garhauer and it was Guido!  We had a nice conversation about how the 
company started and I thought you might appreciate the great story he conveyed.

They started the company in 1971 and the name Garhauer is a compilation of the 
first half of Guido’s last name and the last half of Bill’s (the other founder) 
last name.
Bill was in tooling and Guido in engineering at another non-marine company when 
they started talking about starting their own company.  Not knowing what 
product line to manufacture they started to look around at opportunities.  Bill 
owned a sailboat and they looked critically at its hardware and the market.

So…they amble over to MacGregor yachts and in the middle of a parking lot full 
of boats on trailers they were approached by a gentleman who asked if they 
needed help.  They asked to speak with Roger MacGregor.  Well that gentleman 
was Roger MacGregor!   After talking about why they were there, Roger invited 
them back to his office.

Roger showed them the mast cradle used when the mast was stepped for trailering 
(it was inserted into the gudgeons) and asked them for an estimate.  They gave 
him one on the spot and Roger ordered 200 units right there.   That started 
them on their path to become a vendor of most of the boat manufactures in the 
Costa Mesa area for years to come.

Whereas in the past manufacturers was their primary customer and the retail 
customer a small piece.  Presently the inverse, not surprisingly, is now true.

Guido is a very nice man and I was sure to enthusiastically convey all your C & 
C accolades of his great customer service and products.





Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
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Re: Stus-List horn

2017-09-20 Thread T power via CnC-List
That may be the better option,

Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 8:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List horn

Not a funny question. A horn handy to your reach could save you from a nasty 
situation.

I have a single drink holder by SnapIt on my steering pedestal guard that I 
keep a canister horn.

Dennis C.
Touché

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 20, 2017, at 6:39 PM, T power via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

So here is a funny question from a new sailor, anyone have a suggestion on 
placement of a fixed horn on a C 30 MKI. I was a power boater before and it 
was always on deck.
Do sailboats even have horns or do you rely of the canister horns.
Cheers.

Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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Stus-List horn

2017-09-20 Thread T power via CnC-List
So here is a funny question from a new sailor, anyone have a suggestion on 
placement of a fixed horn on a C 30 MKI. I was a power boater before and it 
was always on deck.
Do sailboats even have horns or do you rely of the canister horns.
Cheers.

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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Re: Stus-List Cradle measurements

2017-09-16 Thread T power via CnC-List
Thanks for the tips Marek, lots of sound advice.
Cheers.

Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/ghei36>


From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Marek Dziedzic via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2017 10:31:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cradle measurements

Tom,

In all cradles I saw, the three (or two, if the boat is smaller) side supports 
are in line - on the side of the cradle. You adjust for the hull’s curvature by 
lengthening the support.

If you don’t have the detail measurements, allow for at least 30-50 cm of 
adjustment. If you are following what others are using for the supports, a 1.5” 
threaded bolt would be fine.

When you fabricate the vertical supports, go long; it is much easier to cut off 
the top 5 or 10 cm than to add 1.

Keep in mind that the support bolt has to be held by some reasonable length of 
the vertical support.

I bet we have a cradle for your boat in our Club, but finding it and measuring 
is all but impossible (it would be one of about 500 cradles in the storage).

Good luck

Marek


From: CnC-List 
<cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of T power via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 6:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: T power
Subject: Stus-List Cradle measurments

Hello,

I have a C 30 that will require a cradle in a couple of weeks. I have made 
the base and the keel rest. I'm struggling with the length of the stands and 
wondering if I could get some insight.

My cradle is 14' long by 77" wide, I have a 10" wide "C" channel keel bed that 
is 62 1/2" long. The keel bed is 69" from the front of the cradle and 37" from 
the rear of the cradle. I would like to put 8 stands plus a bow roller.

Here is what I'm thinking for the stands:

front two will be 1' 8" from center line
Front aft two will be 2'7" from center line, in line with the front of the keel 
plate
Rear two will be 3'2" from center line, in line with the rear of the keel plate
Last two will be 2'4" from center line.

I would appreciate any help, this will be a first for me having my boat craned 
onto a cradle and I'm queasy just thinking about it.

Cheers

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1 (Hull 501)
Fredericton, NB
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Re: Stus-List Cradle measurments

2017-09-16 Thread T power via CnC-List
It would be really cool to be able to do that, unfortunately where I live there 
are no facilities, the residents here rent the crane and haul all boats in one 
day, not sure how I'm going to like this 

Would you happen to know the approximate length of your stands from the base to 
the top of the pads. I'm going off a C 27 MK IV cradle, the stands are 
averaging 27 3/4 inches which seems short.

Cheers,

Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 11:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cradle measurments

When we made mine, we hung the boat in a travelift for a couple days while the 
fabricator built the cradle around the boat.

From: T power via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 6:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: T power<mailto:sv_invic...@outlook.com>
Subject: Stus-List Cradle measurments

Hello,

I have a C 30 that will require a cradle in a couple of weeks. I have made 
the base and the keel rest. I'm struggling with the length of the stands and 
wondering if I could get some insight.

My cradle is 14' long by 77" wide, I have a 10" wide "C" channel keel bed that 
is 62 1/2" long. The keel bed is 69" from the front of the cradle and 37" from 
the rear of the cradle. I would like to put 8 stands plus a bow roller.

Here is what I'm thinking for the stands:

front two will be 1' 8" from center line
Front aft two will be 2'7" from center line, in line with the front of the keel 
plate
Rear two will be 3'2" from center line, in line with the rear of the keel plate
Last two will be 2'4" from center line.

I would appreciate any help, this will be a first for me having my boat craned 
onto a cradle and I'm queasy just thinking about it.

Cheers

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1 (Hull 501)
Fredericton, NB


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


Stus-List Cradle measurments

2017-09-15 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hello,

I have a C 30 that will require a cradle in a couple of weeks. I have made 
the base and the keel rest. I'm struggling with the length of the stands and 
wondering if I could get some insight.

My cradle is 14' long by 77" wide, I have a 10" wide "C" channel keel bed that 
is 62 1/2" long. The keel bed is 69" from the front of the cradle and 37" from 
the rear of the cradle. I would like to put 8 stands plus a bow roller.

Here is what I'm thinking for the stands:

front two will be 1' 8" from center line
Front aft two will be 2'7" from center line, in line with the front of the keel 
plate
Rear two will be 3'2" from center line, in line with the rear of the keel plate
Last two will be 2'4" from center line.

I would appreciate any help, this will be a first for me having my boat craned 
onto a cradle and I'm queasy just thinking about it.

Cheers

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1 (Hull 501)
Fredericton, NB
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit

2017-09-08 Thread T power via CnC-List
Mine was attached to the cockpit with screws and silicone, it was a mess. I'm 
thinking of sealing the screws with 4200 with butyl tape between the teak and 
fiberglass.

Would 4200 be adequate or is there a better product that could be used.

Cheers

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Danny Haughey via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, September 8, 2017 5:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Re: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit

I put everything back with butyl tape.  You do have to seal the penetrations of 
the screws.



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

 Original message 
From: Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
Date: 9/7/17 6:55 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bev Parslow 
Subject: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit

Just taken some teak off a vertical surface. Varnished them and they look 
great. Do I need to use a caulking to attach them back? Can I just screw them 
back?
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Re: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit

2017-09-07 Thread T power via CnC-List
Im about to do the same thing. Would butyl tape work?

Get Outlook for Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Franklin Schenk via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2017 9:04:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Franklin Schenk; Bev Parslow
Subject: Re: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit










Good question.  I always put some caulking to prevent any moisture from seeping 
through the screw holes.

Frank


On Thursday, September 7, 2017 5:56 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Just taken some teak off a vertical surface. Varnished them and they look 
great. Do I need to use a caulking to attach them back? Can I just screw them 
back?
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Re: Stus-List Closed the deal

2017-09-02 Thread T power via CnC-List
Congrats, lots of fond memories ahead


Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of schiller via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, September 1, 2017 10:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schiller
Subject: Stus-List Closed the deal

We are the proud new owners of a 1983 C 35, Mark III (ZCC35028M83H).  Closed 
the deal on it and took position this afternoon.  We will move it up from 
Muskegon to White Lake tomorrow, back home to Crosswinds Marina in Whitehall.

We'll have about 4 weeks to familiarize ourselves with her before time to haul 
and store for the winter.  I still need to pick up the cradle and winter cover 
before the end of the month.

If any of the C 35, Mark I owners are interested in a winter cover, please 
let me know.  I had Whitelake Canvas make me a cover last year and now I have 
no Mark I to cover.  This cover goes to the toe rail and is fitted to go around 
the stanchions and shrouds.  I have a picture or two of it if interested.  Make 
me an offer.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35, Mark III, Hull #28
"Grace"
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Re: Stus-List macerator switch

2017-05-10 Thread T power via CnC-List
Thanks Kevin for the information, sounds like a better setup than what is on my 
boat now. I also agree that inland rivers and water ways are not for dumping. 
I'm not sure how often mine will be used, which is also a concern. Is there a 
possibility of them seizing up if they are not used for a season?


Cheers,


Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: Kevin Driscoll <kevindrisc...@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 9, 2017 7:52:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power
Subject: Re: Stus-List macerator switch

On our 1989 C 30-2, our macerator switch is on the vertical face of the 
molded in "vanity" in our head, just below the shower sump drain switch. It 
very much seems like the right place for it since it is close to the Y valve 
and head discharge/tank discharge thru-hull. It is a waterproof switch because 
of the shower of course. I can definitely hear the macerator in the head as it 
is mounted in the cockpit locker on the other side of the bulkhead.

Of course ours very rarely gets used as it is illegal to dump within 3 miles 
off the coast (in US and CAN.) I am pretty sure the Straits and inland rivers 
do not qualify as 3 miles offshore, but I could be mistaken.

KD

On Tue, May 9, 2017 at 4:03 AM T power via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Thanks Jim for the help. I found out quickly that changing the pump is not on 
my list of fun things to do . Would you recommend a momentary or SPST.


Cheers,


Tom Power

Invictus

C 30 MK1

Fredericton, NB



Sent from Outlook<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>

From: CnC-List 
<cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Jim Watts via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, May 9, 2017 12:13:36 AM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List macerator switch

I have the switch close to the pump so I can hear what's going on. Last pump 
made all sorts of strange noises just before it defenestrated itself. I also 
carry a brand new pump because I have been burned before and it's not fun at 
the best of times.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 8 May 2017 at 16:46, David Blair via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I put a waterproof switch at the helm near the control panel – advantage is 
being in a spot where it is easy to pump while underway – which is a 
requirement in our waters. It is momentary type too – avoids accidently leaving 
it running.  Also makes it easy to see the pump is operating, when the tank is 
empty, etc  Cheers

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of T power via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2017 2:53 PM
To: Indigo via CnC-List
Cc: T power
Subject: Stus-List macerator switch


I currently have a maceration pump that has a momentary switch located next to 
it under the sink. I believe this was installed by the previous owner. I would 
like some opinions on the best place to install the new switch. Is it common to 
have the CB on the distribution panel handle this operation or is it better to 
have a separate switch near the head. I'm thinking near the head, but I could 
be wrong. There is no shower so I think water will not be a concern.

Thanks.



Tom

C 30 MK1

Invictus


Sent from Outlook<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>

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--
Kevin Driscoll

Associate
Vallaster Corl Architects, Inc.
Direct: 503 875 3493

Main: 503.228.0311
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Re: Stus-List the foam monster that ate the v-berth

2017-05-09 Thread T power via CnC-List
I also have the original 1973 cushions that need replacing. I like the idea of 
the memory foam option. Is there any problem with the cushion holding moisture 
from humidity. I plan to put something under the cushion like dri-deck tiles.


Cheers,


Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of schiller via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, May 8, 2017 7:51:44 PM
To: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
Cc: schiller
Subject: Re: Stus-List the foam monster that ate the v-berth

+1 on the Tuffted topper.  We have one for the V-berth but are now spending 
more nights in the main because there is more space and that is where the TV is 
(I know, rough life).  We do have a matress pad to add to the new cushions for 
the main.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
Waiting for spring to bottom pain in White Lake, Michigan


On 5/8/2017 5:55 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote:
If you don't want to go to the trouble that Joe did, but don't like sleeping on 
the crack in the V-berth, try a Tufted Topper Pillow-Top Pad.  
www.tuftedtopper.com.  I bought one ten years ago, 
and it's as comfortable as it was when I bought it.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, May 8, 2017 at 1:31 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I had finally had enough of the 1980 era fabric on 1973 era foam v-berth 
cushions and decided to make something better. I ordered a 6 inch thick king 
sized memory foam mattress and an electric carving knife from Amazon, drew an 
outline of the cushions, and started cutting.
So far so good :)
I crammed and stuffed it into the car, drove down to the dock, and now had to 
carry this huge thing in wind gusting to 30 onto the boat and get it aboard 
without getting launched off the dock. Well that was hard enough, but the next 
step was not totally thought through. The companionway and the passage past the 
head to the v-berth are not really up to king sized mattress moving. After what 
felt like a huge fight with an angry giant octopus, I finally got it up there. 
It is very comfortable too, but what a freaking pain!

Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




--
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



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Re: Stus-List macerator switch

2017-05-09 Thread T power via CnC-List
Thanks Jim for the help. I found out quickly that changing the pump is not on 
my list of fun things to do . Would you recommend a momentary or SPST.


Cheers,


Tom Power

Invictus

C 30 MK1

Fredericton, NB



Sent from Outlook<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Jim Watts via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 9, 2017 12:13:36 AM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List macerator switch

I have the switch close to the pump so I can hear what's going on. Last pump 
made all sorts of strange noises just before it defenestrated itself. I also 
carry a brand new pump because I have been burned before and it's not fun at 
the best of times.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 8 May 2017 at 16:46, David Blair via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I put a waterproof switch at the helm near the control panel – advantage is 
being in a spot where it is easy to pump while underway – which is a 
requirement in our waters. It is momentary type too – avoids accidently leaving 
it running.  Also makes it easy to see the pump is operating, when the tank is 
empty, etc  Cheers

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of T power via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2017 2:53 PM
To: Indigo via CnC-List
Cc: T power
Subject: Stus-List macerator switch


I currently have a maceration pump that has a momentary switch located next to 
it under the sink. I believe this was installed by the previous owner. I would 
like some opinions on the best place to install the new switch. Is it common to 
have the CB on the distribution panel handle this operation or is it better to 
have a separate switch near the head. I'm thinking near the head, but I could 
be wrong. There is no shower so I think water will not be a concern.

Thanks.



Tom

C 30 MK1

Invictus


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Stus-List macerator switch

2017-05-08 Thread T power via CnC-List
I currently have a maceration pump that has a momentary switch located next to 
it under the sink. I believe this was installed by the previous owner. I would 
like some opinions on the best place to install the new switch. Is it common to 
have the CB on the distribution panel handle this operation or is it better to 
have a separate switch near the head. I'm thinking near the head, but I could 
be wrong. There is no shower so I think water will not be a concern.

Thanks.


Tom

C 30 MK1

Invictus


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Re: Stus-List AIS and MMSI as well as marine radio use in Canada

2017-04-09 Thread T power via CnC-List
My boat has a registered AIS and MMSI. Easy to do online I did not require any 
license, nor do I have one.

Cheers.

Tom


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From: CnC-List  on behalf of Andrew Burton via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, April 9, 2017 8:06:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS and MMSI as well as marine radio use in Canada

I've never been asked by either government.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Apr 9, 2017, at 18:12, Glenn Gambel via CnC-List 
> wrote:

 If a boat crosses from the United States in to Canada and stops at a Canadian 
port, must the vessel (sailboat) have a ships station license from the FCC?  I 
believe the answer is yes.  Also, if the vessel has AIS and MMSI, I believe 
that is necessary to have a ship station license and have the MMSI issued by 
the FCC so that it meets the international treaty requirements.

I thought someone out there would know if I am correct or incorrect.

Also where I might find the correct forms on the FCC website, if they are 
needed.

Thanks in advance
Glenn Gambel
C 36
Wind N Spirits
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Re: Stus-List Transducer help

2017-04-08 Thread T power via CnC-List
Wow, Thanks for all the reply's and the welcome. Thanks Fred for the great 
explanation. I think the best option will be to purchase a new gauge pack. I'll 
let everyone know how it goes.



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From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, April 7, 2017 10:46:27 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Transducer help

My limited experience with the actual electronics of instrument packages is my 
DataMarine Offshore Link.  All the instruments feed into a head unit and the 
head unit outputs to display units.  The head also outputs/inputs 2 different 
NMEA 0183 channels.  Excuse my ignorance but isn't this more or less normal?  
With an 0183 data stream you can input that to just about anything you want.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Apr 7, 2017 3:08 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
Chuck — that might work for the paddlewheel, but the impedances will be all 
wrong for the depth and wind transducers, and you’ll also have two sources for 
the depth transducer (Signet instrument and ITC-5) fighting each other.  Also, 
the Signet wind transducer is a different transducer from the Raymarine; the 
thing is wired a bit differently, so the results might be a bit erratic, to say 
the least.  You can’t really parallel or “Y” something like a depth transducer 
to two different destinations, as it’s not made for that.  You can have either 
the display head run the depth or the ITC-5 run it; not both.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 7, 2017, at 1:19 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Fred,
Would he be able to run the Signet Transducers through a Raymarine ITC-5 Analog 
transducer converter?  I thought that most analog transducers were rebranded 
Airmar units but does that only apply to more recent transducers and not to the 
older Signet units?  At some point I was hoping to upgrade the analog 
Datamarine Speed and Depth units on Half Magic (1983 LF 35) to chat with my 
ES75 MFD via an I70S and ITC-5, but it is sounding as if my analog transducers 
may not be able to accomplish this even with the ITC-5.  Same issues as Tom but 
with Datamarine rather than Signet.
Cheers,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram, MA


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Re: Stus-List Second bilge pump

2017-04-08 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hi Gary,

The current bilge pump is a rule 800 with a float switch, I'm away from the 
boat but it is pretty much in the middle of bilge access area


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From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Gary Nylander via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Friday, April 7, 2017 2:15:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List Second bilge pump

What kind of bilge pump do you have now? And where is it? My 30-1 had an 
original equipment Whale Gusher hand pump with a 1 ½ inch hose going to the 
mast area of the bilge and the exit hose exiting out of the port side just 
under the rub rail in the area near the winch. I added an electric pump in the 
lowest part of the bilge with the hose running back to be next to the other one.

Gary
1980 - #593

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of T power via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 7, 2017 12:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power <sv_invic...@outlook.com>
Subject: Stus-List Second bilge pump


Hello everyone,

I own a 1973 C 30 MKI which I'm looking for some advise. I currently have one 
bilge pump, I would like to install a second pump, looking for advice on size 
to install.

Thanks,

Tom


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Stus-List Transducer help

2017-04-07 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hi all,


First off, I'm really new to sailing so there is a steep learning curve for me.

I own a C 30 MKI that currently has a depth, speed, and wind gauges, they are 
round, I think they are made by signet?? I have a new Raymarine eS128 Chart 
plotter that I would like to install. I have no idea what transducers to 
install, deadrise, etc. I would like to end up using the original gauges, and 
also have speed, depth, and wind on the chart plotter.


Any help would be very much appreciated.


Cheers,

Tom


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Stus-List Second bilge pump

2017-04-07 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hello everyone,

I own a 1973 C 30 MKI which I'm looking for some advise. I currently have one 
bilge pump, I would like to install a second pump, looking for advice on size 
to install.

Thanks,

Tom


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Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation?

2017-03-02 Thread T power via CnC-List
Any thoughts on this process.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNz16sRdpFY=3=PLLD81Ey5nuIoof2Y9lL-sDWeorU3g7fpZ

[https://i.ytimg.com/vi/mNz16sRdpFY/hqdefault.jpg]

INTEGRITY FINISHING INC, Boat teak 
restoration
www.youtube.com
SEATTLE WASHINGTON PAINTING COMPANY, INTEGRITY FINISHING, INC. "NEAT, CLEAN & 
COMPLETE SINCE 1986" Your full service painting contractor. BOAT TEAK REPAIR





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From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bill Bina - gmail 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 2, 2017 11:13:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail
Subject: Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation?


Putting anything on top of Cetol sort of defeats its main advantage. Cetol 
breathes, which is beneficial to the wood, and maintenance is easy because a 
quick scrub with plain water and a 3M kitchen scrubby is all the prep work 
usually required to add a fresh coat or two when needed. The slight softness is 
a PLUS. If you top coat it, you lose all of that.and may as well just do labor 
intensive varnish without the Cetol.

Bill Bina

On 3/2/2017 9:46 AM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List wrote:
Our boatyard manager (graduate of Great Lakes School of Wooden Boatbuilding) 
told me Cetol should be coated with at least 2 coats of Captain's Varnish (or 
similar?).  Says Cetol finish by itself is too soft for his liking.  Has worked 
great for me...


Chuck Saur

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Re: Stus-List caulk question and West 6-10 to the rescue

2017-03-01 Thread T power via CnC-List
my apologies for the newbi question, can the West 6-10 be used to fill areas 
where the wet balsa core is scrapped out. I'm rebedding some hardware and 
repairing a few soft spots.

Thanks


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From: CnC-List  on behalf of Steve Thomas via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, March 1, 2017 10:08:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List caulk question and West 6-10 to the rescue

Joe,
   I am in the middle of essentially the same project on my 36, but elected 
to replace the original vent with one of the original style, which can be 
closed. The only markings on the original were a stylized "T", and "Made in 
Sweden". An internet search did not reveal the original manufacturer, bit I did 
find a discussion that indicated a Beckson "Vent-O-Mate" would fit. I ordered 
the version with the plastic cover from West Marine and used the original 
stainless cover. The vent was an exact replacement for the original, down to 
the mounting holes. I am hoping that the closure feature will allow less water 
entry from big splashes than is the case with the solar vent on my 27.

The original sealant appeared to be disulphide caulking which was in good 
condition, but the hole liner extension was not water tight, and I intend to 
fill the deck to headliner gap in the same way that you have done, at the other 
listers' suggestions. I don't have the "good" butyl described by others, so I 
have not made a decision on the sealant yet.

Steve Thomas
C 1980
Merritt Island, FL

C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 "Della Barba wrote:
Thanks everyone. The initial epoxy job turned out great. I ran a heater in the 
head since it was only 50 or so on the boat and it set up fine. Any water 
getting in there will have no more access to the core. I next need to get the 
hole positions set and fill them with epoxy. Butyl tape does seem the best way 
to seal this to the deck too.

Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 08:56
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List caulk question and West 6-10 to the rescue


yes agreed, I can't believe I left that part out!  LOL  thats why it took me so 
much time on the hatches, well that and removing the effing silicone!  I hate 
that stuff!

On 2/28/2017 8:41 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
Joe

I would suggest overdrilling and filling with thickened epoxy and then 
redrilling.  Whatever you use for sealant is not there to protect your deck as 
much as to keep the cabin dry.  The epoxy is to protect the core.

My $0.02

Mike
Persistence

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2017 5:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Re: Stus-List caulk question and West 6-10 to the rescue


I would suggest butyl and thru-bolting

On 2/27/2017 4:15 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
may I suggest butyl tape and mounting screws?

Marek

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2017 14:54
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba
Subject: Stus-List caulk question and West 6-10 to the rescue

Questions - the new vent does not fit into a deck plate, it is designed to
mount directly to the deck. They suggest using silicone caulk. I already
have 4200, would that work? Also I my experience, something with that much
flat surface against the deck is going to be very well glued on by the
caulk. I doubt it will ever come loose unless I run a blade under it, so do
I need to bother with the mounting screws into the deck?

Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com

Coquina
C 35 MK I



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Re: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step

2017-02-12 Thread T power via CnC-List
I never thought about that, seems like a simple solution.


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From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2017 8:45:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step

I just had a sheet metal shop weld some aluminum angle together to roughly 
duplicate the one on my 35-1.  Probably similar to what C did originally.  
You can see pics here:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsb3phTUV4S3lkQ00

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Feb 11, 2017 6:24 AM, "T power via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi, I own a C 30 MKI that has a badly eroded aluminum mast step, is there a 
place where I can get a replacement.

Thanks for any help.

Cheers,

Tom

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Re: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step

2017-02-11 Thread T power via CnC-List
Thanks, I'll give them a try.


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From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2017 11:41:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step

Try South Shore Yachts.

http://southshoreyachts.com/

From: T power via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2017 8:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: T power<mailto:sv_invic...@outlook.com>
Subject: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step




Hi, I own a C 30 MKI that has a badly eroded aluminum mast step, is there a 
place where I can get a replacement.

Thanks for any help.

Cheers,

Tom

Sent from Outlook<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>


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Stus-List Deteriorated mast step

2017-02-11 Thread T power via CnC-List

Hi, I own a C 30 MKI that has a badly eroded aluminum mast step, is there a 
place where I can get a replacement.

Thanks for any help.

Cheers,

Tom

Sent from Outlook
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