Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards
First of all, thanks to everyone for your input. Much appreciated. I’ve not posted very often, but have lurked for years, and I respect the voices of the familiar. I sail out of Vancouver, British Columbia, and most of the cruising we do is local, in the summer. We have islands right in our back yard (so, my home waters are totally protected), or we will cross Georgia Strait (20-25 nautical miles) to get to the very protected Gulf Islands on the east side of Vancouver Island. Last year we went north up Georgia Strait for 50 or 60 miles to Pender Harbour and crossed to Texada Island and back over 10 days or so. I’ve sailed and raced since I was a teen, and this part of the world, in the summer anyway, is usually pretty “Pacific”. In general, we’re looking for breeze in the summer, not trying to shelter from too much (although that can happen, of course, in which case you hole up for a day or three and conduct scientific experiments on the efficacy of various single malt whiskeys); I bought a North light air gennaker the year we bought the boat, and thank goodness I did, because it’s seen lots of use here in the Pacific SouthWest (as we Canadians refer to it); crossing the Strait is similar to coastal sailing where the C C hull proves again and again it is very sea kindly. I have only used the engine because there is zero wind, hence little or no waves. When there is breeze, we sail! And of course, motoring into most slips is required. What led me to ask about outboards is that every year for the last 5, we have departed on summer vacations and ended up being stranded somewhere with Atomic 4 issues. Spinning around in circles at the whim of the tidal currents in zero wind with wife and kids aboard is not fun. I’ve sat at distant docks twice for several days trying to troubleshoot/ wait for a mechanic. I’m not a mechanic, and it is increasingly hard to find mechanics that are familiar with this older design. I guess I was thinking a 40+ year old engine, even one that is being regularly maintained, has more surprises up its sleeve than I am used to. If it wasn’t for the Moyer web site, I’d be completely in the dark. The issues around its ignition coil alone has mystified better men than me, as the long-as-your-arm threads on the Moyer Marine forum devoted just to this one issue would attest. I think I’m on coil # 5, and have plumbed the depths of 2 qualified mechanics over the years, and the problems just won’t get solved. Three years ago I had to rely on the goodwill of a fellow boater to tow us in after sitting 2 miles off our holiday destination as the sun was setting in zero wind. Two years ago after spending days with a mechanic, the engine died again, and I had to push my C C home using my Avon with a 4 hp kicker. This year… well, notwithstanding tune-ups, mechanic time, etc., running it at the dock weekly, the engine lasted an hour into our first day before announcing it had had enough. Started again later, as it often does, but not quite the reliability I had in mind. We sailed onto our anchorage that afternoon, and the next day sailed off the hook, but I can’t sail into my home slip. I can see why a newly rebuilt engine has appeal, but we’re not wealthy, so spending up to 10 K on a new engine, installed, would be more than the boat is worth, and not something we can afford. The downsides of an outboard as I gather from your collective responses are: 1) cavitation in waves which means not sufficient oomph in a seaway if you have to get anywhere under engine. 2) not pretty 3) not in the original design 4) not cheap (just less expensive than the alternative) 5) can be annoying hanging over the transom raising/lowering the transom mounting bracket 6) might not supply enough electricity to run house lights/VHF/GPS etc needs (true? would this be an issue?) I have to admit, those are a lot of negatives. Food for thought for my wife and I. Again, your thoughts are much appreciated. -Paul ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards
Paul: I hear you and feel you pain. Been there. Just don’t underestimate the cost of the outboard route. Even with a combination of yard/DIY/Ebay I can’t see this being less than a 4k project and will easily top 6k yard alone. That includes removing the A4, removing all the associated systems and filling in some pretty big holes. Beef up the transom, buy an electric start outboard, a decent bracket and engine controls. None of this will add a dime of value to your boat. Electric is interesting but really doesn’t like being away from dockside power for more than a night. That is likely an 8-10k project. as you still need to remove many of the components and upgrade both your charging system and batteries. Repowering with diesel is going to be in the same range… at least At the end of the day, I suspect the choice really comes down to a total rebuild vs. time to sell. Just an opinion. John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards
Paul If the block is OK and you have good compression and this hasn't been done yet, I would get a price to upgrade to electric fuel pump, electronic ignition, rebuild the carb (professionally), Install a good fuel filter / separator and smaller in-line fuel filter downstream from the separator, empty the fuel tank and change ALL fuel lines then refill with fresh treated fuel. All that can be done with the motor in the boat. Take your time and find a good mechanic that has experience with this motor. Can't imagine that would be more than a couple $K. Certainly less than a refit to an outboard. Just about any engine can be made to run reliably. Since the advent of ethanol, fuel has become a persistent problem. Getting rid of the points will remove the potential for a few problems, too. Just a suggestion. Good luck! -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Pennie via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 7:46 AM To: Paul and Darlene Clarke; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards Paul: I hear you and feel you pain. Been there. Just don't underestimate the cost of the outboard route. Even with a combination of yard/DIY/Ebay I can't see this being less than a 4k project and will easily top 6k yard alone. That includes removing the A4, removing all the associated systems and filling in some pretty big holes. Beef up the transom, buy an electric start outboard, a decent bracket and engine controls. None of this will add a dime of value to your boat. Electric is interesting but really doesn't like being away from dockside power for more than a night. That is likely an 8-10k project. as you still need to remove many of the components and upgrade both your charging system and batteries. Repowering with diesel is going to be in the same range. at least At the end of the day, I suspect the choice really comes down to a total rebuild vs. time to sell. Just an opinion. John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards
Paul, you said: The downsides of an outboard as I gather from your collective responses are: 1) cavitation in waves which means not sufficient oomph in a seaway if you have to get anywhere under engine. 2) not pretty 3) not in the original design 4) not cheap (just less expensive than the alternative) 5) can be annoying hanging over the transom raising/lowering the transom mounting bracket 6) might not supply enough electricity to run house lights/VHF/GPS etc. needs (true? would this be an issue?) 1. this may not affect you (you say you motor in calm waters), but it is an issue, even in moderate swells 2. secondary 3. ditto; though you will need to reinforce the transom 4. may not be true, especially, if you can resuscitate your original A4. Some suggestions about the modifications are pretty interesting (and should address most of your problems) 5. this is more than annoyance. Not knowing your age and physical ability, it is hard to say how big an issue it is, but lowering and raising the outboard motor is not a trivial thing to do, especially, if the boat is moving in the waves. Btw. this was one of the primary reasons why we upgraded to a bigger boat with an inboard. 6. almost certainly. Most outboards have big enough alternator to supply power just to run it; there is very little spare left. A bigger alternator would require a bigger engine and suddenly p.5 becomes a big issue. You would have to consider solar (or wind) even just to keep up with your electronics on board (I am not even talking about recharging batteries after a night on the hook). Your answer to p.1 indicates that you have issues with no wind, where you want to motor. My experience is that it makes a tremendous difference if you have an inboard vs. outboard. To me and my wife, the sound of the outboard was annoying enough that we never (really) motored other than out and into the harbour. If we were moving even at 1 kt. the engine was silent (if there was less wind, we would not go out or if we expected wind to die down, we would shorten our day). With the inboard, we have already motored for almost 1 h without any (lasting) effects on our sanity. In your emails, I hear some of the sentiments I had before we changed boats. Our outboard became somewhat unreliable (I think that I eventually traced this down to fuel filters and fuel itself) and it was a really bad feeling – every time we needed to start the motor I could never say if it would start and how long it would last. It takes away from the pleasure of sailing.___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards
Re your coil: if they are failing that often it could well be the result of too much current through the primary. That would also prematurely trash your points. Is there a ballast resistor in the circuit? Rich Rich Knowles IFDS 2014 Worlds Support Chair On Aug 5, 2014, at 3:26, Paul and Darlene Clarke via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: First of all, thanks to everyone for your input. Much appreciated. I’ve not posted very often, but have lurked for years, and I respect the voices of the familiar. I sail out of Vancouver, British Columbia, and most of the cruising we do is local, in the summer. We have islands right in our back yard (so, my home waters are totally protected), or we will cross Georgia Strait (20-25 nautical miles) to get to the very protected Gulf Islands on the east side of Vancouver Island. Last year we went north up Georgia Strait for 50 or 60 miles to Pender Harbour and crossed to Texada Island and back over 10 days or so. I’ve sailed and raced since I was a teen, and this part of the world, in the summer anyway, is usually pretty “Pacific”. In general, we’re looking for breeze in the summer, not trying to shelter from too much (although that can happen, of course, in which case you hole up for a day or three and conduct scientific experiments on the efficacy of various single malt whiskeys); I bought a North light air gennaker the year we bought the boat, and thank goodness I did, because it’s seen lots of use here in the Pacific SouthWest (as we Canadians refer to it); crossing the Strait is similar to coastal sailing where the C C hull proves again and again it is very sea kindly. I have only used the engine because there is zero wind, hence little or no waves. When there is breeze, we sail! And of course, motoring into most slips is required. What led me to ask about outboards is that every year for the last 5, we have departed on summer vacations and ended up being stranded somewhere with Atomic 4 issues. Spinning around in circles at the whim of the tidal currents in zero wind with wife and kids aboard is not fun. I’ve sat at distant docks twice for several days trying to troubleshoot/ wait for a mechanic. I’m not a mechanic, and it is increasingly hard to find mechanics that are familiar with this older design. I guess I was thinking a 40+ year old engine, even one that is being regularly maintained, has more surprises up its sleeve than I am used to. If it wasn’t for the Moyer web site, I’d be completely in the dark. The issues around its ignition coil alone has mystified better men than me, as the long-as-your-arm threads on the Moyer Marine forum devoted just to this one issue would attest. I think I’m on coil # 5, and have plumbed the depths of 2 qualified mechanics over the years, and the problems just won’t get solved. Three years ago I had to rely on the goodwill of a fellow boater to tow us in after sitting 2 miles off our holiday destination as the sun was setting in zero wind. Two years ago after spending days with a mechanic, the engine died again, and I had to push my C C home using my Avon with a 4 hp kicker. This year… well, notwithstanding tune-ups, mechanic time, etc., running it at the dock weekly, the engine lasted an hour into our first day before announcing it had had enough. Started again later, as it often does, but not quite the reliability I had in mind. We sailed onto our anchorage that afternoon, and the next day sailed off the hook, but I can’t sail into my home slip. I can see why a newly rebuilt engine has appeal, but we’re not wealthy, so spending up to 10 K on a new engine, installed, would be more than the boat is worth, and not something we can afford. The downsides of an outboard as I gather from your collective responses are: 1) cavitation in waves which means not sufficient oomph in a seaway if you have to get anywhere under engine. 2) not pretty 3) not in the original design 4) not cheap (just less expensive than the alternative) 5) can be annoying hanging over the transom raising/lowering the transom mounting bracket 6) might not supply enough electricity to run house lights/VHF/GPS etc needs (true? would this be an issue?) I have to admit, those are a lot of negatives. Food for thought for my wife and I. Again, your thoughts are much appreciated. -Paul ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:
Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards
I would add re-wiring the harness and any wires to the coil and engine. Moyer sells a kit for that or you could just buy some marine cable. I was having trouble with my engine stalling and not wanting to re-start for an hour at a time. I really could identify with your stranded situations. It turned out to be a bad wire... You could really be out of this for far less than you think. I know the feeling of just wanting it fixed. I was at that point this year because of poor idling and blamed the A4 being an old technology. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt I had done when I first bought the boat and before I bought the moyer and she run like never before. It does seem like an electrical issue though. Honestly, the Moyer swap would not cost $10,000. The best thing about this old technology is how easy they are to work on. If you take the initiative, remove the engine, then replace all hoses and filters and make sure the tank is clean or replaced while waiting for the new A4, the $ for $ investment would be very close between that and the outboard. I've heard of people using their boom to hoist the engine up onto the dock. I think these things weigh about 300 - 350lbs. Moyer will deliver to the marina and send you a crate to send the old one back. The up side is you gain a huge amount of insights into your boat and engine and you would still be able to salvage September and October!! Or, for far less but you could do the wiring and fuel system with the engine in place and see if it fixes the issue. When the engine does run, does it run well? If so, it isn't the engine, it is some support system, i.e. fuel or electrical, of the engine. In the end you will be a better A4 mechanic than anyone you'll be able to find. You just don't want to throw the baby out with the bath water. the 3 things an engine needs to run is good spark, Fuel and compression. take those one step at a time, check the compression. You can get a cheap compression tester from Harbor freight or the like. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=compression+tester You can check spark the old fashioned way of pulling a spark plug and with the wire attached hold it near the block and crank. This you may have to do again during an episode of not wanting to start. I think you will need to replace the fuel system and clean the tank anyway if you were planning on feeding the out board fuel from the existing on board tank. So this you should probably just do. Again, most of this is parts changing, out with the old in with the new and some peripheral vision during the process will help clean up some questionable issues along the way. The problem with a profession Marine Mechanic that I have seen is, the cutting of corners and tunnel vision. They just want to move on to the next project and call the current one done and don't tend to address adjacent problems while they are in there. I do far better work that anyone I have EVER hired to do work on my boat. I have a very recent, long story about hiring professional that cost me 6 weeks of this season because they were sure they were right and I was wrong. If they had done the job right over the winter and tested their work I'd have been sailing in May... I think you should step back, take a breath, put your frustration aside, roll up you sleeves and re-wire that puppy and re-place all your fuel lines and filters and get that tank clean. How do you get it back running after a non-starting episode? I've heard about floating debris in the tank causing issues, blocking a passage during operation and then floating away after a while of non operation. Or (as in my earlier case) as the systems heat up and expand, a faulty wire losing its, connection due to expansion and cooling and contraction repaired the conduit so it could start again until it warmed and expanded again... Danny -- Original Message -- From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: 'John Pennie' j...@svpaws.net, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 08:03:52 -0400 Paul If the block is OK and you have good compression and this hasn't been done yet, I would get a price to upgrade to electric fuel pump, electronic ignition, rebuild the carb (professionally), Install a good fuel filter / separator and smaller in-line fuel filter downstream from the separator, empty the fuel tank and change ALL fuel lines then refill with fresh treated fuel. All that can be done with the motor in the boat. Take your time and find a good mechanic that has experience with this motor. Can't imagine that would be more than a couple $K. Certainly less than a refit to an outboard. Just about any engine can be made to run reliably. Since the advent of ethanol, fuel has become a persistent problem. Getting rid of the points will remove the potential for a few problems, too. Just a suggestion
Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards
Marek, In your emails, I hear some of the sentiments I had before we changed boats. Our outboard became somewhat unreliable (I think that I eventually traced this down to fuel filters and fuel itself) and it was a really bad feeling #65533; every time we needed to start the motor I could never say if it would start and how long it would last. It takes away from the pleasure of sailing. I had this same feeling with my A4 before this season. Stalling, and not idling properly. I was reluctant to go anywhere and it took my wife's persistance to go out. Every sail was a feeling of oh crap, whats gunna fail this time... It was anything but pleasure... This year is VERY different. That A4 starts so easily and idles so strong at 700 RPMs... Now I'm the one pushing to go out!___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards
1) I am not a fair weather sailor, and I do not find cavitation to be much of a problem, even in bad weather. I have seen many outboard installations that mounted the bracket and the motor too high. Garelick makes a LOT of models, and gives all dimensions including range of travel. Careful planning affects the outcome of any project. Speedy little whizzy props on regular long shaft outboards may have more of an issue with cavitation. My prop rarely comes out of the water, except in very active following seas, and since it is spinning slower, it doesn't cause the motor to rev to to the moon when it does. 2) Practicality can often trump aesthetics. I would rather see an outboard on a sailboat than SeaRay style stainless steel handrails glaring in the sun. I could see aesthetics of an outboard possibly being an issue on a Hinckley B-40, but not on a CC 27. 3) The entire effort to reinforce the transom consists of a 3/4 inch plywood backing plate and fender washers, and a 1 inch thick pad on the exterior made of either starboard or plywood. I changed the original plywood for Starboard so I would never have to worry about deterioration again in my lifetime. The outboard and bracket weighs probably less than half what any inboard weighs, so motion and balance is not adversly affected. She sits on her lines. 4) WHAT outboard you pick makes all the difference. My 4 stroke Yamaha is as reliable as my car. The high thrust option gives me the TYPE of thrust a sailboat needs to be efficient. Small, frantically fast propellers may be fine for speed boats, but displacement hulls want low end grunt, which means a huge, slow spinning prop. No cavitation is just one of the benefits. Fuel efficiancy is another. If you like sailing in light air, you are much better off with the prop OUT OF THE WATER, and not dragging down your forward progress. Tie a small bucket on a rope and toss it overboard while doing 3 or 4 knots, and get an idea of what that underwater anchor is doing to sailing performance. There is a reason why the outboard version of the boat has a lower PHRF rating than the inboard. Oh, yes, the CC 27 was available new with either an inboard or and outboard. Arguments about it being designed only for an inboard are ill informed. My CC 27 came from the factory with an outboard. 5) Raising and lowering. I have a small 4-1 vang with 1/4 inch line, between the outboard and the stern rail. My diminuative wife can easily raise the motor with one hand while drinking a cup of coffee with the other hand. The supposed difficulty of operating the controls has likewise been greatly exaggerated. Modern outboards have the gearshift, throttle and kill switch mounted on the long tiller within easy reach without hanging over the stern to reach them. Being able to use the outboard as a stern thruster or to pivot the boat on it's axis is a nice benefit. I can turn around in a fairway without a series of backing maneuvers. I just turn the outboard to one side, and around I spin. 6) I used to obsess about having enough electricity. Between the outboard and a 20 watt solar panel with a genasun controller (MUST be genasun) and 2 AGM group 27 batteries, I never seem to go below 75% charge no matter what I do. I run a full compliment of VHF, 2 gps/chartplotters, Depth, wind, and often RADAR. It's just not a problem. While the boat is at reast, the solar panel charges that last 5-10% of capacity that no alternator ever charges. I agree that this is probably about a $4k conversion, all in, if you do it yourself. You will have brand new everything. Bill Bina On 8/5/2014 2:26 AM, Paul and Darlene Clarke via CnC-List wrote: First of all, thanks to everyone for your input. Much appreciated. I've not posted very often, but have lurked for years, and I respect the voices of the familiar. I sail out of Vancouver, British Columbia, and most of the cruising we do is local, in the summer. We have islands right in our back yard (so, my home waters are totally protected), or we will cross Georgia Strait (20-25 nautical miles) to get to the very protected Gulf Islands on the east side of Vancouver Island. Last year we went north up Georgia Strait for 50 or 60 miles to Pender Harbour and crossed to Texada Island and back over 10 days or so. I've sailed and raced since I was a teen, and this part of the world, in the summer anyway, is usually pretty Pacific. In general, we're /looking/ for breeze in the summer, not trying to shelter from too much (although that can happen, of course, in which case you hole up for a day or three and conduct scientific experiments on the efficacy of various single malt whiskeys); I bought a North light air gennaker the year we bought the boat, and thank goodness I did, because it's seen lots of use here in the Pacific SouthWest (as we Canadians refer to it); crossing the Strait is similar to coastal sailing where the C C hull proves again and
Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards
This fellow wished he had ANY kind of engine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzydL_cUfU4 Bill Coleman CC 39 Marek, In your emails, I hear some of the sentiments I had before we changed boats. Our outboard became somewhat unreliable (I think that I eventually traced this down to fuel filters and fuel itself) and it was a really bad feeling � every time we needed to start the motor I could never say if it would start and how long it would last. It takes away from the pleasure of sailing. I had this same feeling with my A4 before this season. Stalling, and not idling properly. I was reluctant to go anywhere and it took my wife's persistance to go out. Every sail was a feeling of oh crap, whats gunna fail this time... It was anything but pleasure... This year is VERY different. That A4 starts so easily and idles so strong at 700 RPMs... Now I'm the one pushing to go out! ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards
Here is my two cents. Engine issues will not simply go away by purchasing an outboard. Outboards break down, it's a fact of life. On of the reasons I justified selling my 30MMKI with an A-4 was that the engine was the original, 1972, raw water cooled, soon to die, at the end of the line, it must be, it's old, it's only a matter of time Well, I made fast friends with the new owner, they kept the boat in the same yard and that engine is still running strong. Buying a fancy shmancy boat with a Yanmar (and a monthly payment to the bank) simply gave me more things to learn about. Yes, the Yanmar is reliable. Yes the Yanmar has needed some repairs and maintenance. Burt Stratton has given you some great advice. Most of the things he has mentioned can be done with basic tools and a bit of hand-eye coordination. The coil problem you mentioned leads me to ask one question; Did you buy the coil Moyer recommends? I had coil problems. First I bought a cheap coil from NAPA, then i bought a better coil from NAPA. I eventually purchased the exact coil from Moyer and that was the final coil I purchased. If you are keeping the boat and the engine does not have good compression or you have other reason to believe it's DOA, then, my advice is to seriously consider the Moyer Option. Read the Moyer forums and learn as much about the engine as you can so you can service it yourself and learn to fix it yourself in a pinch. OR, buy an outboard and join some outboard forums so you can service and fix that outboard yourself while stranded out at sea with no wind. You have options; 1. Hang off the stern cursing with bleeding knuckles while dropping tools into the water. 2. Curse with bleeding knuckles down below in the shade practicing to be a carnival contortionist. Rob ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards
I've never owned an A4, but I grew up on gas powered fishing boats. Most of the problems we had (and there were many) were ignition related. Bad coils, points, distributors, wires, fouled plugs. I'd look into the electronic ignition module if compression were good. My 2 cents. Joel On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 10:00 AM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Here is my two cents. Engine issues will not simply go away by purchasing an outboard. Outboards break down, it's a fact of life. On of the reasons I justified selling my 30MMKI with an A-4 was that the engine was the original, 1972, raw water cooled, soon to die, at the end of the line, it must be, it's old, it's only a matter of time Well, I made fast friends with the new owner, they kept the boat in the same yard and that engine is still running strong. Buying a fancy shmancy boat with a Yanmar (and a monthly payment to the bank) simply gave me more things to learn about. Yes, the Yanmar is reliable. Yes the Yanmar has needed some repairs and maintenance. Burt Stratton has given you some great advice. Most of the things he has mentioned can be done with basic tools and a bit of hand-eye coordination. The coil problem you mentioned leads me to ask one question; Did you buy the coil Moyer recommends? I had coil problems. First I bought a cheap coil from NAPA, then i bought a better coil from NAPA. I eventually purchased the exact coil from Moyer and that was the final coil I purchased. If you are keeping the boat and the engine does not have good compression or you have other reason to believe it's DOA, then, my advice is to seriously consider the Moyer Option. Read the Moyer forums and learn as much about the engine as you can so you can service it yourself and learn to fix it yourself in a pinch. OR, buy an outboard and join some outboard forums so you can service and fix that outboard yourself while stranded out at sea with no wind. You have options; 1. Hang off the stern cursing with bleeding knuckles while dropping tools into the water. 2. Curse with bleeding knuckles down below in the shade practicing to be a carnival contortionist. Rob ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards
It’s my understanding that Moyer won’t ship large items like blocks and rebuilt engines to Canada. Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet CC 27 MkIII___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards
Good thing the border is close for most boat owners. -Original Message- From: Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: 2014-08-05 1:58 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards It’s my understanding that Moyer won’t ship large items like blocks and rebuilt engines to Canada. Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet CC 27 MkIII___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
