Steve,
If you are seeing an oscillation of the power output level, you might try
reducing the ALC loop gain.
One can increase the value of R98 on the RF Board to decrease the gain
through the K2 power determining ALC loop. If the value is increased too
much, the power output on 10 meters will
Bird makes (or made?) a model 4410 wattmeter that will do what you want.
It looks identically to a model 43, except it has a single knob range switch
on it. The ranges depend on the slug in use. Mine has a 1 KW max.
2-30 Mhz slug, which yield ranges from 0-1 watt to 0-1000 watts with
a 1 and 3
I am trying to use my K2 to drive a little HFPacker amp I built. The
amp needs 2-2.5W input, but I am having trouble setting the K2 output.
For requested levels around 2W, I get 1.5-1.7W as measured by both
internal and external wattmeters and a simple RF voltage probe. This is
into both a
Steve,
Remove the KAT2 and the external wattmeter and try the following experiment.
Compare the output variation possible from the K2 when driving a 50 ohm
dummy load with the K2 output developed when driving the amplifier. If you
obtain the same results, blame the K2, but if you find different
How about a version for all of us not in the USA that are not encumbered by
FCC regulations?
Take the K2's 10 watt PEP or 15 Watt CW output and generate somewhere in the
neighborhood of 400 watts PEP or CW. Perhaps a KPA400 would solve the FCC
problem. And of course we would need a matching
The HFPacker amp has a 3dB pad on the input so you might need to take
that into account. I use mine with a KAT100 on the output and an
internal KAT2. I disconnected the Vrfdet on the KAT100 cable as it has
the amp in the gain loop, and the K2 software only knows about the
KPA100. With the
In previous comments here on the reflector, Wayne said that the new amps
will develop several hundred watts output when driven by a K2 at 10 watts or
so and:
...will accept band change data from most popular transceivers, as well as
computers, or via complete manual controls on the front panel.
One of the problems with putting pictures of your K2 out on the Web is that
everybody gets a shot at finding your mistakes.
Roger, OE6MSF, points out that it appears that I may have installed C111 on
the RF board backwards. C111 looks like a filter cap between line 8T and
ground. Since 8T isn't
Recently there has been discussion about the phenom we know as Christine.
Well, the rest of the team is just as exceptional. I placed an order Wednesday
night for a KPA100 and a KIO2. On Thursday I received an email from Pam
Anderson asking me if I wanted to cancel the KIO2 because the
Craig,
C111 is an electrolytic capacitor, and if subjected to reverse voltage it
can overheat and rupture. Since it only has voltage on it during transmit
periods, it may take some time, but yes, change it before it explodes on
you.
True the 8T signal is not used for any of the options, but it
Yes, but with all those features and SO2R, and the capability of 1 or 2 KW,
the price will be high. I'd love to see a 400 watt or so integrated amp for
the basic K2 with no frills. A KPA400 option rather than a KPA100. A separate
box would be okay, like some have done with the KPA100 in an EC2
Sounds like *someone* hasn't gone through that formative experience in
electronics installing an electrolytic cap backwards and turning
on the juice. It can be very entertaining, if a bit smelly, at times!
73 de Alex nS6y
On Feb 4, 2006, at 2:24 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Craig,
C111 is
Don,
I took your advice and reduced the number of variables. With the KAT2
removed and no amp I found that I do get output in the 2-3W range:
Requested K2 Reading V^2/R
1.0 0.6 0.82
1.5 1.0 1.04
2.0
Something like that just might just get me to sell my 200W Yaesu FT-1000MP
Mark V. I love my K2 but I use the FT-1000 when I need more power. A 400
watt K2 would do it all. Have you ever looked inside an FT-1000 or other
similar radio. I wouldn't know where to begin to repair one. It's
Does it cover 6M?
N2TK, Tony
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 1:05 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject:RE: [Elecraft] Re: New Amplifiers ...
In previous comments here
Hi I have just got to the stage of testing my K2.when I switch on I hear
the relays clicking but the display does not show anything it is blank
the leds light the display.Has anyone had this problem ? I am going to
take it apart and re solder the pins of the display as they were very
short and
Well, I run my K2 at 5 watts on PSK31, and make a contact or two everytime
I get on. Its not as easy as it use to be and I end up calling CQ alot. Only
a few times have I not made contacts.
The bands are not as good as they were, and all contacts I have to work at.
My problem is once I make
I recall building a transmitter many years ago using a good old 807, anyway
I put one of the caps the wrong way round on the HT side and when the
transmitter was fired up it was like one of those party poppers going off!
Never did find the aluminum can that was part of it! Lots of nice oily paper
Chris,
If you see nothing on the display, check to be certain you soldered pin 1 of
the U1 socket. If you missed it (and several other folks have made that
error) it is a bit tricky to solder since the LCD is now in place, but you
can cut away a bit of the plastic from the socket and solder the
If you have a capacitance tester, it'd be a good idea to check and see if
the capacitor is still a capacitor. Obviously it didn't short, but it might
now be open which could cause odd problems down the road if you use that
circuit because if the cap is open the circuit is no longer properly
Another thing to look for and it took me months to find it, R15 R16 was
not soldered.
Roland in Californ-i-a
- Original Message -
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: chris [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 5:35 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft]
First off, I didn't mean to imply that Elecraft shouldn't continue on their
path to the big amplifiers that they are building. Sorry if anyone had that
impression. My hope was that a lower priced, lower power version would also
become available.
I can't help but wonder if some of the
Darrell Bellerive wrote:
Therefore a KPA400
option looks like the most practical option.
I think the main problem would be commercial. Although 400 watts would
make a noticeable difference, most hams who are in the market for an
amplifier want at least 800w.
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
Let's see:
K2 + KPA400 vs. K2 + KPA100 + 800 watt amplifier.
What would be the $/watt?
You're right 800 watts is a very nice power level, but there have been a few
transceivers that have featured 200 to 400 watts output like the Yaesu
FTdx-400 or some versions of the FT-1000. Niche market to
I just finished SN 5319 a few days ago and all is working perfectly except that
the output power fluctuates. The radio is stock with no options. It will not
fluctuate while the radio is transmitting a solid carrier, but as soon as you
unkey and start sending a carrier again, the power will drop
I have just completed (I think) Phase II construction of my K2, and I am
getting ready to power up and calibrate.
Unfortunately, I failed a resistance check. Page 59 of the manual says
that the resistance from U6 pin 8 to ground should be 100 ohms. I get
about 37 ohms.
At first I
After posting my plea for help, I went to the archives (should have done
that first! Duh!) and discovered that someone else experience the exact
same problem a couple years back. Not surprisingly, my error turned out
to be exactly the same as his. I need to use the reflector a little
more
Cathy,
Before desoldering the thermistor board, check all other places the 8B
voltage line appears carefully for solder splashes (U8, C103, C175, RFC16,
Q19 drain, U6 pin 8, etc - check the schematic for the questionable places).
Sometimes it is possible to examine the solder side of the
Howdy Folks,
The power finally came back on here at Buxton Lookout Ranch. The snow
has been falling in the quiet of a camping lantern lit evening. Sam (the
cat) has been bugging me for more food than usual but that's OK he needs
it. West Oregon Electric Cooperative informed me that we
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