Can anyone tell me where I can find the rules for the SS
for this weekend?
Paul, KD3JF
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Rules should be available on the ARRL website since it is an ARRL sponsored
event.
Yup, here it is:
http://www.arrl.org/contests/rules/2006/novss.html
Fun event, one of my favorites every year. Unfortunately I've usually got
something else going on the weekend of the CW event, but I put in
I bought one a few weeks ago but preaching duties at church kept me from
having any free time to look at it. Our new pastor has arrived so I can
return to non-preaching status which puts some free time back into my
life.
Time for that AF mini module!
Last night I put it together. The entire
--- Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Have you any thoughts about what might be causing
Don's K2/100 to behave
when he switches the display from RF to ALC?
Yes, that is quite unexpected ! David, M0DHO, brought
this peculiarity to my attention and I noticed the
same
Direct keying is perfect. I don't know any reason
to even consider optical coupling. Good luck.
73, Joe, aa4nn
- Original Message -
From: Håkan Olsson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 1:37 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW keying
Thanks
The only reason to use optical coupling is to isolate the computer ground
from the K2 chassis (or use a fast relay to do the same thing).
If connecting the keyline from the computer to the K2 introduces additional
noise during receive, add the optical coupling.
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original
The KBT2 manual says 14.0V +/- 0.2V is needed to charge the battery. Does that
mean something like an Astron putting out 13.8V is enough or is that too close
to the edge? I seem to recall someone saying it was not enough ideally but
can't find the note now...or maybe I'm remembering incorrectly!
Mike,
The 'float voltage' that must be applied to an SLA battery terminals should
be 13.8 volts to maintain a full charge on the battery. The K2 has a series
diode in the power supply line for reverse polarity protection - that diode
drops about .2 volts.
What that means is: to obtain 13.8
Does anyone know what/who this is? It is making a mess of the QRP calling
frequency..
Jack, AE6GC
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They're quite audible in N.W. Oregon this A.M. too.
These letter stations turn up from time to time all over the spectrum.
I've yet to hear a plausible explanation.
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: LETTER F ON 7.39 WITH LETTER M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Does anyone know
Here is some info on these beacons:
http://dxworld.com/markers.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Letter_beacon
http://www.arrl.org/news/stories/2006/07/05/102/?nc=1
--
Jason Milldrum, NT7S
--
Station NT7S http://www.recursiv.com/
QRPedia
Craig,
CW Sweepstakes is my favorite contests and one of the few that I make a full
bore effort to compete in. I'll be running both my K2/100s at the 100W
level in a SO2R (single operator, 2 radio) configuration. I use the old DOS
based TRlog contesting software which essentially lets both rigs
I have been wondering if this filter is the same design as the KAF2 without
the clock. I have often wished I could use my KAF2 with other rigs. Having
an outboard filter works well to clean up the harsh sidetones of many rigs.
Like the K1. I have been using a SCAF outboard filter but maybe the
They're Russian military stations. I don't know what they are used for,
but they show up at various places at various times.
Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
They're quite audible in N.W. Oregon this A.M. too.
These letter stations turn up from time to time all over the
I bought a set of Altec Lansing Powered Audio stereo speakers at Wal Mart
last week and am fairly pleased with the sound quality and volume. And
although maybe not perfect, they are an improvement over the internal K2 spkr.
They were about $17.oo, as I recall. They have a tone control,
Sounds like an Elecraft design glitch! Why would
one want to adjust their DC 13.8VDC Astron, to make
up for it? Circuit needs a mod.
Fred
N3CSY
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Before I bought the AF mini-module, I compared the schematic to the K2
AF. Nope, not the same. The mini-module has the benefit of more
controls and a built-in AF amp. Listening to them, I think the KAF2
rings more in the narrow position than the mini-module does but it's
been a while since I
Yes, Bob, W7AVK sent along this link:
http://www.cvni.net/radio/nsnl/nsnl032/nsnl32mx.html
That info has never been confirmed as far as I know and they've been around
for half a century according to some reports.
Of course, the simple explanation is probably the right explanation: a
Craig,
Hoping to play the full period.
Planning on operating QRP with K2 #3311 (KAT2), 4
element SteppIr @ about 50', 1/4 wave vertical on 80M,
sloper on 40M and will give 160 a try as well. 40 is
my weak band antenna-wise... If time allows I may get
a really scrunched up 80M half square in the
Fred,
Not a design glitch IMHO - there is no way that Elecraft can redesign the
float voltage for an SLA battery!! plus:
I for one would not eliminate the series protective diode, so unless someone
comes up with a protective diode with zero voltage drop, we just have to
deal with those two
I will also be on full-time in SS CW, class A (100 W). Like Bob I use two
K2/100's SO2R, also using N6TR's software.
Antennas are a dipole and 1/4 wave vertical on 80m, dipole + 2 el yagi on 40 at
100', two 4 el yagis on 20m at 100' and 50', two 6 el yagis on 15m at 70'/35',
and a 6 el 10m
Thanks, Don Tom, for your help. Now I'll scout around the web for the Astron
schematic and try to find that pot.
I'm still debating whether to build a K1 to bring along to places with me or to
build a fully kitted K2 QRP cover (ant. tuner and battery). The K2 cover is
cheaper, the K1 building
Elecrafters,
While reading the thread re: charging batteries I saw the note re: adjusting
the Astron.
It occured to me that I could bump the ouput up from 13.8 to the legal
limit for my KX1. The goal of course is more power out!
Is this a bad idea? I say bad because I know that many
Fred, N3CSY wrote:
Sounds like an Elecraft design glitch! Why would one want to adjust
their DC 13.8VDC Astron, to make up for it? Circuit needs a mod.
==
The diode in series with the power input to a radio is good design
technique. Without that protection, if you accidentally connect
I want to apologize to the list for cluttering up the discussion in late
August.
Our school district moved to a new mail system which I found cumbersome
and so started forwarding the mail from there to a personal account. I
did not know that their system would not delete mail that was
On Thursday 02 November 2006 09:55, Don Wilhelm wrote:
There is an intenal pot in the Astron to adjust the output voltage, so it
may be a simple matter to increase the Astron voltage - locating the correct
pot may be more of a challenge, be certain you adjust the proper pot.
I have an
On Nov 2, 2006, at 12:00 PM, Jack Regan wrote:
Elecrafters,
While reading the thread re: charging batteries I saw the note re:
adjusting
the Astron.
It occured to me that I could bump the ouput up from 13.8 to the
legal
limit for my KX1. The goal of course is more power out!
Is
Unless you're going to double your power, it's hardly worth the effort from
a technical point of view. Doubling the power raises you signal by what is
considered by communications specialists to be a just barely discernable
change in an on-air signal. (Yes, I know that is the definition of one
Jack,
The specification for the KX1 power is 7 to 14 volts with a recommendation
of 8 volts minimum.
So yes, you CAN increase the power supply voltage safely, but ask if it is
really worth it. A typical KX1 will develop about 4 watts with a 14 volt
power source, and 3.5 to 3.8 watts with 12 to
Don et al:
I've never tried this, but I've been wondering if any protection would
be given the K2 if there were a reverse-biased diode running from the
+13.8V input to ground. Put a 5 amp fuse in the positive line between
the diode and the power socket and it should immediately blow if the
Mike,
BAMA has Astron schematics, see if your supply is in the list there
http://bama.sbc.edu/astron.htm
The K2 will provide full band coverage as well as SSB, and double the power,
but it weighs more - the decision will have to be based on your wnats and
desires.
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original
G'day,
I have now done the resistor mod to no effect and will probably revert
'cos I don't like how I had to add the 1K0 in series with the base of Q1.
Driving the K2/100 into a dummy load and just using the bar led display I
see the following:
Set requested power to 30W. Mode SSB. SSbA =
I pulled the KAT-2 out of my K2 because it looks like I've managed to blow
the diodes out for the 2nd time. How hard is it to remove it? What could I
possibly screw up? Take the top cover off, pull the 2 cables, take the nuts
of the 2 bnc connectors and remove the ground lug. I mean what could
It's not as elegant as having an automatic circuit handle the issue, but one
way to reduce the amount of ALC and associated overshoot on 40 is to
reduce the audio to the rig. Switch in the audio attenuator at the MENU or
otherwise reduce the audio to the mic jack until you are getting just one
bar
G'day,
I haven't found any difference switching about from RF to ALC and back to
my overshoot problem. Neither any effect by sneaking up on the requested
power from a previously lower setting or down from a higher setting.
Regards,
Mike VP8NO
| Have you any thoughts about what might be
John,
While that method is used in many instances, remember that 'the transistors
will always protect the fuse!'
I have seen (and created myself G) instances where that parallel diode
will open as soon as it sees a large current impulse due to the reversed
polarity (and before the fuse reacts)
Jerry,
The most likely answer is: You inadvertently changed the menu parameter for
the sidetone source.
Enter the menu and scroll to 'ST L' - hold EDIT to edit the parameter, and
then tap the DISPLAY button to toggle the sidetone source. Stop when you
hear the sidetone and exit the menu.
I
G'day,
| It's not as elegant as having an automatic circuit handle the issue, but
one
| way to reduce the amount of ALC and associated overshoot on 40 is to
| reduce the audio to the rig. Switch in the audio attenuator at the MENU
or
| otherwise reduce the audio to the mic jack until you are
Hello,
The Polar Bear web site has been updated with the latest operating
information. I sign two new Polar Bear up to the list.
I will be trying to make my 700 QSO from the Appalachian trail. I will make
a solo hike up to Pulpit Rock just out side of Hamburg, PA. I will be using
my K1 at 5
I couldn't get thru to the BAMA site but found the schematics at
http://www.repeater-builder.com/astron/astron-index.html
I have the RS-35M, and wasn't aware of the 13.8 volts needed for full
charge, so I'll be \inside the Astron this weekend. (looks like R 104 on the
RS-35M)
Thanks for the
Ron AC7AC wrote:
That info has never been confirmed as far as I know and they've been around
for half a century according to some reports.
Of course, the simple explanation is probably the right explanation: a
propagation beacon that tells various stations which frequencies to use at a
given
In a message dated 11/2/06 11:50:28 AM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Sounds like an Elecraft design glitch!
It's not. It's actually a very good design.
Why would
one want to adjust their DC 13.8VDC Astron, to make
up for it?
Because it's what is needed.
Circuit
Doing a small expedition to North Dakota for cw sweepstakes.
K2/100 to 88ft doublet and KJ7U screwdriver.
Callsign will be K0NDX.
73, John AF9T
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I want to make sure I'm following this. I
need to see 13.8 volts immediately after the protective diode. Is that
correct?
Thanks
Tom
WB2QDG
K2 1103
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006
Doing a small expedition to North Dakota for cw sweepstakes.
Good deal - we need lots of ND stations! Thanks, John!!
... Craig AC0DS
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Take a look at the charging specifications from the datasheet:
http://www.powerfactorinc.com/Batteries/ps-1229.htm
It appears that the 100 - 200 mv drop across the shockey diode is
acceptable. This lowers the 13.8 volt output from the power supply to 13.6
to 13.7 volts. The float voltage can
Tom,
Correct - That is usually the goal - BUT, if one wants to get 'picky' about
the real voltage required, that will depend on the temperature, state of
charge in the battery, the particular battery characteristics, and a whole
lot of other variables, specified or not.
So, the 13.8 volts can be
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