If you use the high temp blob method, try using larger diameter solder. I use
the largest diameter Radio Shack stuff. Works better. More fun!
73, N4YM, George
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FWIW I touch a 35 watt iron (dating back to the sixties) to the wire, no solder
blob. the enamel disappears in a blink of an eye, vaporized. I use a small
hemostat on the wire to stop its progress up the wire.
72, Fred kt5x
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The RLC AS-120B has been sold
W0EB
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Help:
I did the mod recently on my K2/100 serial 5545. It made a big
difference and now the sidetone is much more relaxing to listen to. I
didn't enjoy txing on the K2 before this. This is what I did :
1 - Remove L1 and C33
2 - Solder a 2.2uF in place of L1
3 - Cut a small piece of holed circuit
Both attenuators have now been sold
W0EB
Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscripti catapultas habebunt.
(When catapults are outlawed, only outlaws will have catapults!)
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Don,
Many thanks for the response. I just wanted to double check on that. I guess
what
threw me was the previous step to remove the anodized coating.
Locate the two machined standoffs on the pedestal, labeled S in
Figure 29. Lay the sanding block across the top surfaces of both
standoffs.
I finished building the basic K2 on Wednesday night. I had just finished
aligning the receiver and transmitter, still had the cover off, when I
heard an Italian station calling CQ around 7010 KHz, so I gave him a
call. He didn't respond, but F3NB came back to me! I was running 10
watts into my
have for sale 3 Parallax BASIC Stamp-1 modules, 3 carrier boards and 2
serial display boards (1 used, 1 brand new), 1 25 pin serial programming
cable. The documentation can be downloaded from Parallax's website. (Doc's
included in the new BPI-216 serial display package) some application notes
Yes, Fred, but you still have to tin the wire. I guess you save on solder
and get less fumes which is a consideration.
David
G3UNA
- Original Message -
From: Trail Fox [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2007 1:48 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Tinning
I have wound hundreds of toroids and have an IMHO to submit...The flame
method is the poorest, most time wasting, most dangerous procedure...Since we
need to strip the enamel up to as close to the core as possible, the flame will
inevitably damage the first and last few turns by scorching both
hi im selling my k2 sno 04930 working to elecraft spec
my 3rd k2 i build
ssb fitted offers around £470 inc postage uk or euroland
shipping extra i need to fund trip to vk land contact me
off list thanks chris g0wfh
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Jerry, wa2dkg wrote:
The blob method requires only one step and should be done with high
heat...I used to use an old fashioned unregulated 40 watt iron for
this...Today I use a Hakko 808...There is no need to first scrape the
wire...The object is to burn the enamel off, and the heat of the iron
Have been having WAY too much fun with this. Kids and everyone enjoyed it.
http://www.philtulga.com/morse.html
--
David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982
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BASIC Stamp modules have been sold.
W0EB
Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscripti catapultas habebunt.
(When catapults are outlawed, only outlaws will have catapults!)
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Hello Don and Ron:
I got my new power module in the mail today and it went right in without a
hitch. Alignment at that point went very smooth. I used a DL-1 to measure
voltage and then chart it out to 20 watts. My LP-100 is waiting to be built.
:-) I figured 22 volts was about 20 watts and
I have seen very little talk about the EQP this weekend. Will there be some
activity? Is it that everyone is just hunched over their soldering irons
getting their radios ready?
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I can tell you that everyone on the Elecraft staff with a ham license
will be on the air :)
I'm hoping there will be a strong turnout! The rules have been
simplified further this year, and everyone (with or without an Elecraft
rig) is invited to participate.
For rules, go to our home page,
WA2KDG wrote:
The blob method requires only one step and should be done with high
heat...I used to use an old fashioned unregulated 40 watt iron for
this...Today I use a Hakko 808...There is no need to first scrape the
wire...The object is to burn the enamel off, and the heat of the iron
If you are interested in collecting some Europeans on 40m during the EQP,
7040 kHz plus minus is usually well occupied by Eu RTTY, Letter stations, an
ITU beacon and sometimes SSB. I would suggest 7020 kHz to 7032 kHz to be a
better bet.
73,
Geoff
GM4ESD
- Original Message -
From:
Great. I will be on 40 and 20 CW only. I haven't gotten around to installing
the 80M option on my KX1 #666. I am sure it will be a devil of a time to get
it done tonight in time for tomorrow and I don't want to take a chance in
having the radio disassembled. I am too busy fixing Bill Gates'
Hi folks
I have a problem with the initial testing of the amp.
The initial tune up gives me a hi cur then a 0.1- 1.0 and I cant control
the watt reading.
I tune C1 and did get a 1.0 but I don't get a 5.0w when commanded.
I went on and the amp seems to be oscillating at abt 18 watts on the
I played a bit with this mod this evening. I can duplicate the results, but
I'd like to understand a bit more about this circuit.
What is the purpose of RP5 pins 7/8 and pins 9/10? This grounds the audio
signal via 940 ohms of resistance. Is this just to provide a DC bias for the
electrolytic
Darrell Bellerive wrote:
I played a bit with this mod this evening. I can duplicate the
results, but
I'd like to understand a bit more about this circuit.
What is the purpose of RP5 pins 7/8 and pins 9/10? This grounds the
audio
signal via 940 ohms of resistance. Is this just to provide a DC
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