Hi folks,
Occasionally I find the PRE/ATT fails to work. Sometimes the PREamp
works, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes the ATTinuator is louder than
normal mode.
I should have a replacement relay coming with my KPA upgrade - but I ask
could it be something else?
This is only a problem on
I am building a KX1 and I am installing the inductors. L9 according to the
instructions is suppose to be a micro size inductor. Instead the one
included in my kit is a mini size. It is the right value. Any body know of
any reason I should not use it. Why was it changed? Accident or
Hi Don,
Had the same concern.
No fear, I checked with Elecraft and Lisa informed me that was the
correct inductor as they can not get the mini style any longer.
I carefully bent the leads on mine to allow it to fit and still be
low profile, works fine business!
Good luck with the KX1,
Tom,
I hooked up the dummy load and the 0-20 watt meter.
3.5 MHz 12.5 watts out, 2.7 amps
7 MHz 14 watts out, 4.3 amps
10 MHz 10 watts out, 2.4 amps
14 MHz 8 watts out,2.3 amps
18 MHz 9 watts out 1.8 amps
21 MHz 9 watts out,1.8 amps
24 MHz 6 watts out,1.5 amps
Any ideas on keeping the paddle screw tight?
Mine seems to work loose easily, Locktite or similar
would work but I want to remove it.
The paddle on the KX-1 works loose because the thumbscrew strikes the edge of
the circuit board before the paddle body is pulled up tight against the
I am not certain what you mean by the phrase the RF watt meter built
into the rig reads correct on 80 and 40, but does not reflect
the lower
power output on the higher bands, its still pegged. What do
you mean
by pegged?
The watt meter in the rig indicates 10 plus watts out
even
If the problem is that the screw end is contacting the board, there is
yet another way to correct it - put a #6 washer permanently on the
thumbscrew before screwing it into the paddle body. I use a light
spring lockwasher on mine. I would not suggest using an internal tooth
lockwasher
Brett,
All that sounds like you have a significant amount of reactance
connected to the K2s antenna jack. If you have an antenna analyzer,
remove the coax from the K2 and check the entire load that your dummy
load, wattmeter and coax combination is presenting to the K2.
Since you have a
If you go to the Elecraft Web Site and click on Builder Resources,
the top left item in Builder Alerts addresses this subject.
73, Ken K3IU
At 06:35 AM 3/21/2007, Curron HILL wrote:
I am building a KX1 and I am installing the inductors. L9 according
to the instructions is suppose to be a
I don't have this problem with my KX1, but if I ever develop it,
I suspect that the first thing I'll try is a nylon or fiber washer
under the thumbscrew. This is a reasonable attempt at a non-marking
lockwasher... and the next thing is to try an extra thin flat
washer (made from shim stock) plus
Bugs did, indeed work with the dots being made with one's
thumb..but, they did, indeed, also work the 'other way around'- at a
small price!!
I have here an ARRL Handbook in which the
Vibroplex ad statesEvery Vibroplex key has 3/16 contacts and is
available for left-hand operation.
At lunch I did some more tests.
I made a dummy load using 4 200 ohm 2 watt resistors, measured
the resistance at 50 ohms, and plugged that right into the watt meter.
The other end of the wattmeter plugged into the K2 antenna jack
using adaptors.
I did the tx setup per the book, and now have at
You should have gotten this sheet in your kit:
http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/Builder%20Alert%20Installing%20Small%20Chokes%2
0Rev%20B.pdf
It describes the inductor issue and how to install the slightly larger ones.
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL
Brett,
In TUNE, the power control loop is not as tight in the firmware portion
of the loop as compared with normal keying. The reason for that is to
allow those using a manual tuner with their K2 to be able to adjust it
without the power jumping quickly all over the place.
I am glad to
Don,
Ok, but why always on the low side and not the hi side
of error?
2 to 3 watts out of 10 is 20% which is not that good,
and why only at the higher frequencies?
On 10 meters, it might say 12 watts out but only give 8
actual watts
I want to know why it rolls off at the higher frequencies,
Can anyone describe how the power output control actually works?
I traced the circuit to the bank 1 part, I have no idea what bank 1 is.
The cpu seems to have some control over the power output, looking
at the output power sense circuit to display output power
on the bar graph and as a digital
Brett,
The power output is totally controlled by the microprocessor.
The power knob (think of it as 'power requested') setting is known to
the microprocessor (full stop of thought here).
When the transmitter is tuned or keyed, the output is measured by the RF
detector (or wattmeter if
Hi,
I don't suppose Bretts problem could be as simple as having 1 turn too
many on the LP filter toroids? I fixed a K2 for a chap who had done that,
and the higher band outputs especially, were rotten. It is a common
problem for new kit builders to add an extra turn when winding toroids
I ordered the KPA100 kit on Thursday March 8 and it arrived 2 days later on
Saturday. I worked on it a couple of hours each night during last week, and put
it in an EC2 enclosure this Sunday afternoon. The parts were all there (thanks
Marina!), the assembly went very smoothly, and all tests
I've read that Davis Bury Flex is very good (low loss) coax. I have
Cable X-Perts RG-8 (50 feet of it) as my feedline right now. Is it
worth my time and $ making a change to Davis Bury Flex or something
similar?
Jeff
K6ATT
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J S wrote:
I've read that Davis Bury Flex is very good (low loss) coax. I have
Cable X-Perts RG-8 (50 feet of it) as my feedline right now. Is it
worth my time and $ making a change to Davis Bury Flex or something
similar?
Jeff:
You might ask yourself how much the loss differential would be
Jeff,
My own 'rule of thumb' is that 2 dB less loss in your coax is worth it,
1 dB is not worth the money or trouble.
You will have to figure the relative loss for your highest band of
operation, your cable length, and your SWR on the line. All of those
factors should be considered.
In
I saw a note on this list about a smaller tilt stand. I've got a recent K2
with the standard bail on it. Does this 1.5 tilt stand replace the standard
bail and is lower?
My bail measures neither 3 or 1.5 at the bail and something less than 3
at the front of the K2 so I'm confused.
73
jim
Jim,
How about half height tilt stand rather than getting hung up on
specific dimensions. It will lower the K2 to about 1/2 the height of
the standard tilt bail. I have not measured it, so I can't give you the
precise dimensions.
73,
Don W3FPR
Jim Miller wrote:
I saw a note on this list
Hi Jeff:
I've read that Davis Bury Flex is very good (low loss) coax. I have
Cable X-Perts RG-8 (50 feet of it) as my feedline right now. Is it
worth my time and $ making a change to Davis Bury Flex or something
similar?
Personal opinion follows... take it for what little it may be worth...
good enuf!
thanks, Don!
another thing for my next Elecraft order!
73
jim ab3cv
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Jim,
I was saying that the standard one is too high for me. Then I was told that
there is a 1.5 stand available on the Elecraft Web site. Just go the their
ordering page and look at the K2 accesories. I already ordered one.
73,
Tom KG3V
Quoting Jim Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED]:
I saw a note on
Hi all,
Since I posted its arrival I thought I'd follow it up with this
announcement that another K2 is alive and well. I had no issues with
the build except those of my own doing... i.e. not interpreting the
instructions correctly. We just process things a bit
I am interested in purchasing the XG2 test osc/swr cal.
My question...Can the XG2 be utlized on non Elecraft
transceivers, or is it only useful on K1, or K2 etc...?
I would like to try it out on my Ten-Tec QRP rig
and SST.
Dennis Vavra, AD5LY
___
Jeff,
For a 50 ft. run, if your existing coax is in good shape and fairly new, I
wouldn't bother replacing it now, at least for HF work. When it does need
replacing, the Davis Buryflex is mighty good stuff. I recently replaced a 10
year old 50 ft. section of RG-213 with Buryflex, as some of
Hello, all...
Much thanks for previous assistance.
Running spectogram on #5759 yields the following indications:
- stop band for CW filters around 30-40 dB
- using a 440 side tone, all CW filter bandwidths show a series of higher
frequency humps [less attenuation] with the following
It's useful on any rig covering 80, 40 or 20 meters, Dennis.
Its 50 uV output is what many manufacturers use as a reference input level
for an S-9 signal, although there's no real consistency between various
rigs. That 50 uV number came about simply because receiver manufacturers
needed
I ran the spectrogram software during the filter
alignment tonight, very interesting stuff.
I don't think it improved my filters any that I can tell.
I tried different center frequencies, and just cant decide
what I like on receive.
I went from 600 to 1100 Hz and cant decide what works best
This retiree, while he awaits some future K3 kit -
picked up a used IC-703Plus QRP rig. Has any
K2 qrp'ers - worked hams with IC-703's. Do they
perform OK, and did they seem reliable for CW or
and SSB? Sorry for the bandwidth - but when K3
hits the counter, I'll be in line.
Fred N3CSY
Robert,
Please send me some information about how you have things set up. What
you are observing is common if the soundcard input is being overloaded.
Are you using the line input to the soundcard? Or are you using the mic
input? What takeoff point are you using from the K2? Is the slider
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