I bought the cheaper crimping tool together with the 15 and 30 Amp APP
connector set.
It does *not* give a satisfactory crimp - the wires can (and do) pul out of the
connector..
I now solder the wires into the contacts.
The more expensive crimp tool, that presumably does a better job is
beyond
I bought a PWRCrimp from West Mountain Radio, which cost about $50. It works
fine. There may be others.
However I had already made the decision to use Anderson Power Pole
connectors for the various 12V equipment I have, and this was a decision I
made after using APP connectors for a while. I
I have a rather LARGE supply of canned worms.
They are perishable and therefore I opened one of them...
It would seem that the fish are bitting today!
Happy Fool's Day everyone!
73, Damon
Eric - WA6HHQ wrote:
Lets rest this thread (and related ones) for now. If not, it could
easily take
Has anyone out there changed the Backlight LED's.
I was wondering if blue would be a possibility.
When it was time for me to install the LCD, I forgot to re-read the
errata...
Since it is now to far recessed into the panel, I would like to de-solder it
and start over.
This would be a good time
The most comprehensive writeup I've seen is here:
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/Roofing_Filters.htm
I'd agree that you probably don't want to order 200, 250, 400 and 500.
However two of these four makes sense for some buyers, including me.
If you configure the radio correctly, roofing filters are
Hi Franki,
As of my knowledge therre is no european dealer fpr
Anderson PP. I order mine in the US and do not crimp them but solder
them.
In this way you can use them again if you have to and i do like
the solder more as crimping.
There is a lot of discussion whatever is
better: solder,
CPC in UK
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search2/browse.jsp?N=59+401+411Ntk=gensearch_003Ntt=CN03817Ntx=_requestid=661602
but their site is down at present.
I ordered my crimp from Quicksilver radio in US
http://www.qsradio.com/Powerpoles.htm
they have a lot of PP stuff and give a very good
Dick Dievendorff wrote:
If you're interested in CW or data modes (RTTY, PSK, etc), then you'll
perhaps want to invest in one or more narrower filters, perhaps one or two
of 200, 250, 400, 500 Hz. If it's only one narrower filter, I'd suggest
either the 400 or 500 Hz filter. I think of
DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
The K3 Appl Notes indicates that mode was incorporated around Jan 20
or S/N 211 +/- . Mine is #295 and I took receipt on Jan 30 and I
believe it took 7 days to get here.
Mine is S/N 222 and when I installed some filters the other day I checked
and it did not appear
Tom says in him mail.
he got the values the wrong way around, the SMD resistors in situ on
the board are 100K
the end result should be approx 33K = therefore you add 47K resistors
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think
we're not. In
Thanks guys for a lot of answers and good advice directly to me and on the
reflector. Much appreciated.
I know what to do now regarding the APP power cable.
BTW regarding APP in EU:
http://www.wimo.de sells APP and the crimp tool (go shop radio acc's
power supply acc's).
73 de Franki
Dave Martin-2 wrote:
Nope, I believe the only other sensor is the one in the front panel,
to keep track of the master oscillator temperature. I imagine they
determined that the 10 watt PA had adequate dissipation through the
bottom cover and wouldn't get hot enough to need to be
Jim Miller wrote:
Are there separate error codes for self test from those listed in the Owners
manual - Appendix E Troubleshooting -Error codes with the problem
defined and the troubleshooting steps?
As I understand it, the Elecraft message is built up incrementally as
the early
-Original Message-
I bought the cheaper crimping tool together with the 15 and 30 Amp APP
connector set.
It does *not* give a satisfactory crimp - the wires can (and do) pul out
of the connector..
I now solder the wires into the contacts.
The more expensive crimp tool, that presumably
Originally R41 and R42 (47k) parallel to 100k makes 32k.
New advice says R41 and R42 paralleled with 47k (gives 23k).
Which is right?
SMD application replace R41 and R42 with 33k.
Benny OH9NB
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Post to:
Hi everyone:
I have Thunderbird check for the magic characters K3 in the subject.
When they are found, those emails are put into a separate folder. Not
owning a K3, that makes it easier for me to quickly scan through topics
that probably aren't of interest to me. Some folks don't bother to
I don't know why I didn't think of this myself!
https://www.google.com/accounts/ServiceLogin?service=mailpassive=truerm=falsecontinue=https%3A%2F%2Fmail.google.com%2Fmail%2F%3Fnsr%3D1%26ui%3Dhtml%26zy%3Dlltmpl=defaultltmplcache=2
de Dog RK2Q
___
Get the PwrCrimp from West Mountain Radio. It is $50, but it will be the
only crimper you'll probably ever need for APPs. I bought one three years
ago, and it has worked great for close to 200 APP crimps for me.
Phil - AD5X
Whats the recommended tool for this. I'm going to buy a tool once
Just think, you could place an order in Aug 2008, make it look like it
was placed May 2007 and have a 9 month wait for delivery LOL!
If you ask me, this tool is for Fools!!!
- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -
- K3 Wave 3, er, um, Wave 1 :-) -
-Original Message-
I don't know why I
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-
Hash: SHA1
I agree John.
The list moderators have asked, on several occasions, for people to put
the model of elecraft product in the subject line. It was suggested that
doing this would allow people to use the filtering capabilities of their
mail clients to
I balked at first at the $50 price tag for the Anderson crimper. But
finally I gave in and bought one. Good move on my part! The Anderson
crimping tool is ratcheted, and accomodates all sizes of connectors. It
applies just the right amount of pressure, and at the right places, to make
a
I think Dick has put together an excellent summary regarding the available
filters. I sure don't see much to contradict based on my experience.
I would mention one thing, however, and i'm curious if others are
experiencing the same anomoly. I opted for both the 400 hz and the 200 hz
filters
I acquired the 250 Hz filter primarily because a very good RTTY specialist
friend (W0YK) recommended it for contest RTTY. I haven't used it much. But
I haven't often used the 250 Hz bandwidth on any radio. My other radios had
uncompensated high filter loss with very narrow filters and I got
Howdy Dave:
I bought the more expensive Anderson PowerPole (APP) crimper and it works
beautifullymakes a great crimp and the wire(s) will not pull out.
I changed my entire station over to APP's along with my mobile FM rigs and
am glad that I didI also use RigRunners at my 3 operating
-Original Message-
...RigRunners at my 3 operating positions ... makes hosing up the
various pieces of gear a simple process.
I know it's just a typo. I know Joe meant hooking, but I can't
resist. It's just so funny as written LOL!
- Keith N1AS -
- K2
This device works ok with WIN-XP but is reported as incompatible with VISTA
Home premium. Has anyone else noted this problem ?
73Bryan GM3AKF
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Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the
I use Vista Home Premium all the time with my Elecraft KUSB. I got the
device driver for it from Microsoft Windows Update when I first plugged the
KUSB into the computer.
Dick, K6KR
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bryan
Sent: Tuesday,
At 06:41 AM 4/1/2008, Phil Debbie Salas wrote:
Get the PwrCrimp from West Mountain Radio.YES.
--
After reading the ad copy about gooey black tape on your 12 v connections;
and avoid having a hi amp 12vdc short fire. I WAS SOLD ON
What am I missing here? Why isn't Elecraft assembling the connectors
to the wire as a part of their process? Is there some reason to NOT
assemble them prior to shipment? We all know how a loose connector
can cause mysterious symptoms down the road.
I use powerpoles here, and I think I
Nope...no typo Keitheverybody knows when you connect something up to
something else it is called hosing up (grin).
It is a technical term I learned in Tech School (grin).
73, Joe W2KJ
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Hosing gear (APP crimp tool)
-Original
-Original Message-
What am I missing here? Why isn't Elecraft assembling the connectors to
the wire as a part of their process?
Kit vs. Factory built. Kits are, well, kits.
- Keith N1AS -
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Elecraft mailing list
There was once an issue as to whether special tools were required to assemble a
K3. It was also described as requiring no soldering. I believe the cable
should be supplied ready assembled. Don't forget those folks outside the US
who pay a lot for US tools, plus shipping plus import tax plus
They are probably not providing assembled for the same reason that they
don't provide it with the K2/100... it's a kit. It is NOT necessary to
buy the expensive crimping tool. There are instructions contained in
each KIT describing how the connectors can be assembled without using a
crimp.
I recently received my first Elecraft kit a K1.
I don't see any postings relating to this rig.
Every posting seems to be about the new K3 and sometimes the K2.
Someone must be still interested in the K1 out there.
Are there any comments on this radio . for instance; how was it to build,
I can vouch that there is no reason to order both the 400 and 250 filters.
When I first ordered my K3 on the phone, whomever I spoke with (and I can't
remember) convinced me that these two would be the best combination for CW
operation.
In reality, there is very little difference between the
I also noted the splatter problem - as well as the poor operators who are
unable to listen properly (a station in Singapore) vs the good ones (an
Italian) who can.
I think the reason for this close in rejection problem might be the shape
factor of the DSP. In my case, it was not spatter as we
For goodness sake, what's the big deal with the power pole connectors?
Every ham should have a soldering iron and just use it. There's no need to use
any kind of crimp tool for this. I've soldered mine and they work fine. I can't
understand why there's been so much thread on something so
And those customers can always buy a premade cable- for example,
QSRadio has a 5' cable for $7.00 with ring terminals, 10' for $10.00.
73, doug
From: Tom Childers, N5GE [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2008 11:05:42 -0500
On Tue, 01 Apr 2008 10:55:02 -0400, you wrote:
Some of
Bud,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I recently received my first Elecraft kit a K1.
[...] how was it to build,
is it fun to use, does it have a decent receiver, etc, etc.
Please tell me something about your experience with your K1.
Congrats on the new kit you'll love building and operating
On Tue, 01 Apr 2008 10:55:02 -0400, you wrote:
Some of Elecraft's customers are faced with having to spend $50 for a
tool to use only one time? Why?
Jerry W4UK
Most kit builders have a soldering iron, so they certainly don't have to crimp
the PP connectors.
In your post you say, Some of
problem. You probably can make a decent connection without a special
tool--it's just harder to do.
I would suggest that if someone does not have a precision APP crimp tool
that they simply solder the pins, despite the fact that in the long run,
cable flexing and vibration will eventually
David and All,
Well, some folks want everything! Maybe a voltmeter and an oscilloscope
should come with every kit as well! Or perhaps a magnifying visor and
tweezers should be included when SMD parts are involved.
I'm being facetious--sorry! But I think you are overreacting to the
It's a judgment call, Julian. I had not noticed any issues either even
though I use a wide bandwidth filter to scan the CW bands: exactly the
situation the mod was designed for.
The mod delays activation of the AGC by relatively strong signals within the
first I.F. (roofing filter) passband that
While the impact on a receiver might cause clicks to be heard, that's a
failing of the receiver, not the transmitter.
The real issue about the CW keying waveform is the production of sidebands
around the CW signal at the transmitter. All amplitude-modulated signals,
which CW is one type, have
Sporadic E (Es) season is just around the corner.
Doug
W6JD
6 meters for the time being,
but Jim assures me that things should start happening on that band pretty
soon. So, now is the time to get ready. In the meantime, I plan to put
this thing up in the air a little bit, and see what I
I said that because I observed several guys on the reflector this
morning discussing buying the $50 tool. Apparently they never needed
it before, but felt that it is justified for the K3 assembly. Those
guys will probably never need it after the K3 assembly.
I will solder mine, but I remember
The tool recommended by Elecraft in the assembly instructions for their
power supply cable kit is the West Mountain Radio PWRCrimp Powerpole Crimp
tool with a #02 die (www.westmountainradio.com/PWRcrimp.htm).
I don't have any personal experience with it. I solder my terminals onto the
leads. It
This has been an interesting discussion on SSB filters and DSP. I think the
consensus is that you need to have a tighter roofing filter for SSB other than
the 2.7 or 2.8 filter for serious contesting.
Sidenote: I think there seems to be more people on SSB contesting now that
before and some
Jerry wrote:
Some of Elecraft's customers are faced with having to spend $50 for a
tool to use only one time? Why?
-
They aren't. Soldering the APP connectors is recommended and does a superb
job.
Ron AC7AC
___
Most kit builders have a soldering iron, so they certainly
don't have to crimp
the PP connectors.
In your post you say, Some of Elecraft's customers are
faced with having to
spend $50 for a tool to use only one time? Why?, although
they have a choice to
do it either way. Why do you say that?
Keith N1AS wrote:
They should be crimped but the crimper is $50 or something like that. The
can be soldered but everyone agrees that is not the preferred attachment
method.
-
Not so, Keith. Wayne and many others (including myself for what it's worth)
That's why soldering
is typically not used in concealed wiring in buildings, aircraft and
other
sensitive locations.
Interesting point, Ron. Don't think I've ever seen that mentioned
before.
Logical, when you think about it.
Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG
- Original Message -
From: Ron D'Eau
Hello Bud!
The K1 has been around for a while so there's not as many questions being
asked as there are about the K3.
The K1 is a great little radio! It's designed for small size and low current
drain. Still I really like the receiver, especially the continuously
adjustable I.F. filter that is
http://www.powerwerx.com/adapter-extension-cables/
Order cables already made up, order crimper's, order power supply
cables, order APP to OEM cables.
Spend the money, or solder it.
Enjoy
Dave Wilburn
K4DGW
K2/100 - S/N 5982
What do you feel when you kill a terroist? Recoil.
Dave
Or just buy a pre-fab power cable already if you can't handle making your
own:
http://www.westmountainradio.com/rigrunner/ps_cbl_6.htm (for one example).
On Tue, Apr 01, 2008 at 10:25:50AM -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
Jerry wrote:
Some of Elecraft's customers are faced with having to
Yes, the K1 is a very sweet rig. The audio is especially nice, although
you'll have some popping on loud signals.
I enjoyed mine. Sold it to upgrade to the K2. I've been planning to
buy another K1 one of these days.
- Keith N1AS -
___
Elecraft
FYI, you can input the original settings easily enough, but having a reset
method would be quicker. Perhaps there is one that someone can fill us in
on.
I have played with mine to get it to where it does what I want, and that is
the beauty, to me, of the noise filter. I have other radios with
The power cable kit is included as a convenience for those who don't have an
APP-equipped power cable handy.
It's not part of the K3 kit, nor does it require any special tools (other
than a soldering iron) to assemble correctly.
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi.
I am new to the group. I just ordered a K3 last night. I wonder how long I
will have to wait for it.
I currently run an Orion II, so I will be interested in comparing.
I have been considering an IC-7700, but the more I read about the K3, the more
interested I got. The QST review pushed
Someone previously wrote: Some of Elecraft's customers are faced with
having to spend $50 for a tool to use only one time? Why?, although they
have a choice to do it either way. Why do you say that? Elecraft does not
require them to use a crimp tool.
I purchased the cheapo crimper years ago
While we're on the subject of APP connectors, let me point out the one issue
that comes up more often than another - intermittent connections when
plugged in and an tendency for the connectors not to stay mated.
It's always been associated with improperly assembled connectors.
After putting
Whups, Bud. I mixed up a K1 and KX1. I was talking about the KX1.
Time for another cuppa coffee and get my brain back in gear.
I don't have a K1, but there are a LOT of K1 owners on the list who will be
happy to offer suggestions and talk about their experiences.
One friend of mine put a K1
Repeating what I've posted here previously, the first thing to get firmly in
mind about the K3 crystal filters is what their purpose is. They are not
used to determine the bandwidth you are using on any mode. (Yes, you need
the 2.7 or 2.8 for transmit on CW, RTTY and SSB. The AM and FM filters
There have been a few postings over the last two days
complaining of ssb splatter on receive with the K3 during
the WPXSSB contest. I operated during that contest with my
TS-850's and found generally that the bands were extremely
crowded, and there were definitely some stations with broad
On 3/31/2008 11:02 PM, Dave G. wrote:
The more expensive crimp tool, that presumably does a better job is
beyond my price range considering the few times I would use it...
I hesitated a while before I bought the expensive proper crimp tool,
figuring that I would only use it a few times, and
The question I have is What is the effective shape factor of the K3
DSP?
DSP filters usually are so-called Finite Impulse Response (FIR). FIR
filters for a given complexity (length) have a nearly constant
transition region width going from the passband to the stopband. For
this reason,
The K1 is easy to build (although I had to use a binocular magnifier to read
the micro printing on some parts with my 70 year old eyes!) Really nice
kit.
The receiver is super decent! First time you fire it up it sounds like it
will be deaf. Almost NO internally generated noise. The
Dave,
I wonder if the problem had anything to do with the AGC SLP? Mine was at 10.
Very strong signals seemed to cause some high pitch distortion. I changed it
to 12. It seemed to help. I hear some have gone to 15. But I thought that
was flat topping the AGC too much.
N2TK, Tony
-Original
I see no point at all in buying a
1.8kHz filter for SSB , it is just not necessary. If there is
a signal 2kHz away inside the 2.7 but outside the
1.8 and 100dB above noise you are going to have problems with
their IMDs anyway.
Few people will benefit from narrow SSB filters, but no point
So for the DSP:
BW60 = BW6 + 300Hz (approx)
Sounds like good numbers to me. Thanks for the answer!
Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, AZ
- Original Message -
From: Lyle Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 7:10 PM
Subject:
Hi Bud,
I think that you will really enjoy both building and using your K1. I have
a 4-band K1 (40, 30, 20, 15) and I actually use it as my main station rig.
(I have a KX-1 for portable operations). It's a great little radio. Not
too hard to build and the learning curve for using all of
In crowded band conditions, narrow filtering is often helpful. In
particular, for SSB contests, a receive bandwidth of 1500-1800Hz is very
effective. For me, 1500Hz (300-1800Hz) works great on the K3. There is no
intelligibility above 1800Hz that is useful in a contest QSO. If you think
Bjork's new video Wanderlust has that name in morse sent just at the
end of the video.
http://video.on.nytimes.com/index.jsp?fr_story=1b7437f415e3c9898200afe28d6c4089255471cd
Media penetration!!
73,
Oliver Johns
W6ODJ
___
Elecraft mailing list
Thanks to all for the comments. (I am using a 2x 400Hz and 2x 250 Hz
Inrad combo in my MP for selectivity at this time, and a wiide
roofing filter)
The subject is very interesting to me since I expect my K3 sometime in
June.
How about this one for the K3:
2.7 standard
2.1 8-pole SSB
Yes, Dave, you can rest assured that there are many present and near-future K3
owners waiting with bated breatrh for this year's sporadic-E season to start.
Where you are in AZ, monitor 50125 kHz for occasional early bird openings
starting around mid-April; the main event gets going around May
Hi, Bud,
The K1 was my first Elecraft kit as well. In fact, it was the first kit I
had built in over 20 years.
The step-by-step instructions are simple, elegant, and effective. I did not
have a single problem putting the kit together and had fun doing it. Tuning
and adjustment were a breeze.
Hi all,
When I first started my engineering education in 1962 I was taught to join
multi strand cable by splicing and soldering the joint and then insulating
with rubber tape and then covering with black sticky tape. This was fine
until aluminium cable turned up and joints could only be made
Hello,
I'm doing the next best thing. I just ordered a 6 Meter transverter (XV-50)
from Elecraft. I'm going to be building a Moxon antenna and turn it with a
TV rotor. It will not be a powerhouse, but should get me in some openings.
Best,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN
- Original Message -
A while back I mentioned here that I was using an Audio patchbay to tidy
up my K3 installation whilst making access to the K3's Input and output
connectors easier than rummaging around at the back of the radio. A few
people asked me for more details on this.
I have decided to start a blog so I
Jerry Flanders wrote:
I said that because I observed several guys on the reflector this
morning discussing buying the $50 tool. Apparently they never needed
it before, but felt that it is justified for the K3 assembly. Those
guys will probably never need it after the K3 assembly.
I
My experience with roofing filters is from using Orion and Orion ii.
On my first transceiver, Orion, I ordered the narrow filters, and found
anything less than about 600 cycles not to be useful.
From a practical point of view, a roof of even 1 kc was more than adequate for
CW, RTTY, and PSK
Hi Ro :-)
For anyone looking at APPs, these sites might help:
Lots of good PP ideas - http://home.comcast.net/~buck0/app.htm
Very good supplier out in the US - http://www.qsradio.com/ - N1GNV is
really good
Good supplier in UK - http://tinyurl.com/2nzu3j - that's my tinyurl,
trust it! (CPC
Hi David:
You wrote:
Yes you can solder the odd ones or twos (ok Ron, yes you solder them
all), but I found I was having to be very careful not to let solder
run up to the contact part.
You fixed that with a good crimp tool. For those who solder the terminals
the way
I have been told throughout my professional career that a crimped joint is
more reliable than a soldered one but I am skeptical. Maybe a perfectly
executed crimp is theoretically better but my own experience shows
otherwise. Cars, industrial installations come to mind. I have witnessed
plenty of
Are there more sporadic E openings on 6 meters closer
to the sunspot cycle maximum?
How bad is a poor Summer for 6m CW SSB, and on
average how often does that happen as compared to a
decent Summer of stateside DX on 6 meters?
[Elecraft] K3 on 6 Meters
Bill W5WVO w5wvo at cybermesa.net
Tue
I've had the same observation Knut.
People in the power and aerospace industries tell me they now avoid soldered
connections in hidden locations because of the danger of an overheated
circuit actually melting the solder, which causes a rapid heating and
failure of connections where they can't be
Why a 1.8 filter?
Well put Ed-W0YK. I am no electrical engineer, ie have no electronics
background, but I do my best to understand. In addition to what
Ed-W0YK mentioned there are at least a few more situations besides
contests for a 1.8 filter on receive for SSB. I have been on the bands
Darwin, Keith wrote:
Just think, you could place an order in Aug 2008, make it look like it
was placed May 2007 and have a 9 month wait for delivery LOL!
My company has been selling a product for some time. Once a guy called
and said that he wanted to buy it for the old price, and he had a
Why a 1.8 kHz filter?
Despite the belief that DSP can accomplish all things, it's not
necessarily true.
After experimenting around with only the 2.8 kHz filter for SSB, I
decided that I didn't like the way the DSP version of the 1.8 kHz
bandwidth sounded; it had a slight ringiness to it. I
Mentioned is a sixth reason to my recent post of additional reasons
besides contesting for a 1.8 filter for SSB. Six Meter sporadic E
signals can be very, very loud and band conditions often change rapidly
so two stations very close to each can appear very suddenly through no
fault of their
My motto is If it ain't broke, fix it til it is (broke). To prove this,
although my k3 speaker did not buzz, I tried the electrical tape fix as
described in someone's previous post; wherein the tape is applied to the bottom
of the top cover at certain places, as shown in the photo in the post.
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
The one caveat about soldering is that if you have an extreme short circuit
that is melting the wires and starting a fire the heat might also melt the
solder causing it to run out of the connector causing another poor, high
resistance connection that can create even
I have read where the first two or three crimps made by a new user using
a high-quality tool may be throw aways.
Why is this and what does the user learn after the initial attempts?
If the instructions are closely followed, can't the first crimp be as
good as any?
73,
Tony W7GO
Tony and all:
There is a bit of skill involved in using even the Anderson crimper.
You must simultaneously squeeze the handles very hard while keeping
the crimping jaw steady. It takes practically everyone two or three
tries to get a feel for it.
73,
Steve Kercel
AA4AK
At 08:59 PM
David Yarnes wrote:
There hasn't been much discussion about using the K3 on 6 meters.
Unfortunately, I may be talking to myself on 6 meters for the time
being, but Jim assures me that things should start happening on that
band pretty soon.
Dave, as others have stated, standby. 6 meters
Just a short note to let everyone know that the Z1 buffer amplifiers
are ready to ship, including the options for internal installation in a K2.
More details at http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/z1_buffer_amp.htm.
The K2 and K3 IF sample bandpass filters are still around mid-April as
One fax machine is worthless.
Two, still pretty much worthless; except you can fax the other guy you
too huh?
10, getting warmer
100, hotter
etc..
Billions of fax machines -- now they are very valuable appliances.
APP's are more popular the more that are used. Elecraft made an
_engineering_
John,
I ordered the 500 hz and 250hz filters The 500
will be great for the casual stuff. When it
gets tough like the 160 mtr contest with signals
30 and 40 db over S9 all over that 250 will be
king. I have 2 TS-850S with inrad 400 hz - they
are ok but I assume that when my K3 arrives I
won't here
I love my K1. Was a kick in the pants to build. I found that using
emery cloth to strip the insulation off the torroids was a help as it
allowed me to get things very clean with out doing the heat strip method
which didn't work too well for me. I've made quite a few contacts using
a fanned
- For RTTY, my default bandwidth is 200Hz plus the Dual-Tone
Filter of additional cascaded 50Hz filters around each tone.
In theory, the bandwidth for 170Hz-shift RTTY should be
250-300Hz, but I've found operationally that 200Hz works
great in my RTTY contesting.
The two 50 Hz filters
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