Spend the time to check off all parts against the parts
list. Ensures all is there and aquaints you with many similar
looking screws (so you don't use the wrong ones). I bought a large
Plano plastic parts box (like a fishing tackle box) with many
dividers to place the sorted parts. Some
As Don stated prepare yourself for a new level of transceiver performance,
it does take some getting used to 8)
73,
Fred/N0AZZ
K3 Ser # 6730--KX3 # 5210--K2/100 # 6470-KAT100
P3/SVGA--KAT500--W2
Amps Elecraft KPA500 HF/6m--Alpha's 9500 HF--87A HF--Mirage B-5030-G
300+w--(2) B-5016-G's 165w 2m
If I am not mistaken I think the proper way of tuning the amp is with a
pulser or sending a string of dits at say 60wpm not a solid tone.
Randy
On Fri, Jan 17, 2014 at 11:44 PM, Bob KD7YZ kd...@denstarfarm.us wrote:
Willis 'Cookie' said:
The easy way is to hold the dash on the bug.
unless
I am experiencing poor signal isolation between antenna ports of KAT500.
ANT1: Open
ANT2: Open
ANT3: Antenna connected
On selecting ANT1 or ANT2, I hear signal from ANT3 although signal level is
lower than ANT3.
ANT1: Antenna connected
ANT2: Open
ANT3: Open
On selecting ANT2 or ANT3, I hear
I am sure I am missing something simple here
I can't get the KX3 into transmit using the software for JT65-HF. I can get
the KX3 to transmit using the KX3Util program in PSK RTTY and CW. This time I
have KX3Util not running just JT65-HF. I am decoding and reading JT65 signals
well enough
Ariel,
Do you have the KX3 set to DATA A mode? Do you have 4 to 5 bars
indicated on the ALC meter?
Is the KX3 going into transmit? If you are trying to use PTT from the
Signalink, do you have the KX3 set to use PTT? VOX is also usable, but
you must get enough audio into the KX3 to activate
Hi All,
Last fall I replaced the PA connectors in my K3
with the Elecraft gold plated pin connectors that
they recommend.
Recently I have also acquired the gold replacement
28 and 5 pin connectors for the front panel of my
early K3.
But I have misplaced the PDF instructions that
ARE YOU SERIOUS
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Randy Lake
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 6:56 AM
To: Bob KD7YZ
Cc: K3 List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] How do I generate a Key Down to tune an external
6m
Randy, you are indeed mistaken!!
73
K0PP
On Jan 18, 2014 4:56 AM, Randy Lake randyn1...@gmail.com wrote:
If I am not mistaken I think the proper way of tuning the amp is with a
pulser or sending a string of dits at say 60wpm not a solid tone.
Randy
On Fri, Jan 17, 2014 at 11:44 PM, Bob
On 1/17/2014 23:53, Dick Dievendorff wrote:
My K3 back panel has two 1/4 inch key jacks, one for a paddle, one for a
straight key. I plug a paddle into one, and the keying line from my computer
into the other. I have a vibroplex bug and plan to put a 1/4 inch mono Y
adapter plug into
Yes Randy is correct. The Tube dealers LOVE people who tune up with a
Brick on the Key. Kills your Tubes much faster. Plus you get a much more
accurate tuneup by sending dots than you do with a solid tone. It duplicates
your actual transmissions using dots rather than solid tone.
Its really
John ---
I suggest you send this 'quality' information quickly to RF Concepts and
tell them they better take that brick off of the key to their amps that they
demo at hamfest.
This thread ranks right up there with 'where do you plug a straight key into
a K3?'.
W4BQF
-Original
What the man said was that he was going to plug in a bug. A bug AKA
semi-automatic key does not make a string of dahs, just automatic dots. The
dah position of the finger piece makes dashes manually like a straight key
except that you push it side ways instead of down. A proficient operator
Hello Elecraft Support,
Last fall I replaced the PA connectors in my K3 with the Elecraft gold plated
pin connectors. Went very well.
Recently I have also acquired from Elecraft the gold replacement 28 and 5 pin
connectors for the front panel of my early K3 #371.
But I have misplaced the PDF
Sorry for the duplicate bandwidth.
I sent it to the wrong e-mail address.
N1LQ
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post:
Be sure you have good tools!. Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips Screw Driver
and use it. Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap screwdrivers that you
bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them away, if not keep them
with the punches, that is all they are good for. Buy a static
Hi Keith – Take a look at the measured KAT500 isolation numbers in the “Product
Reviews” section of my website at www.ad5x.com. The isolation varies based on
the ports chosen, and the frequency band. As an example, the isolation on 20
meters has a worst-case value of 36dB between ports 2-3
More advice:
Be sure you're using the correct hardware (especially screws) by
measuring them as suggested in the assembly manual. We get a
significant number of kits returned with chassis or other short
circuits due to long wrong screws being used.
73,
matt W6NIA
On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 08:06:23
Having relatively recently built a K3, P3, KPA500, KX3, and KXPA100 I've
found my little Petzl LED headlamp to be one of handiest things aside
from good tools and a big static mat. It puts light exactly where I'm
looking and makes it easy to check pin alignment and the like without
having to
I recently got a KX3 and have set up my station such that the KX3 can share the
KPA500, KAT500, and several antennas by using a pretty beefy Daiwa 2-position
coax switch. The station is set up just like the diagram on page 147 of KE7X's
KX3 book. This configuration seems to work very well.
Hi, anyone out there successful in punching holes in the 2WIRE firewall for
Remote operation?
The user interface for browser access seems to me to be lacking. Does anyone
have the secret sauce?? The browser interface also wants the application type
from a pull down menu.
What are the two
With all of the recent talk of solar, I've made the move away from my
trusty Astron power supply. But the KPA500 remains...
I did a little searching but couldn't find anything other than a couple
of posts from Oct which looked to be about using an inverter to power
the KPA but nothing with
I'm sure that a lot of us would like to see the results of that
comparison, George.
What we do know is that the Argonaut VI has a higher current demand on
receive, and is missing some bands.
The Argonaut should have a very good receiver, like the Eagle, and
excellent break-in CW; a Ten-Tec
I don't know much about hooking multiple transceivers to the KPA500 (I only
have the K3/KPA500 mix) but it would not surprise me to learn if the problem
might be connected with some status check or something that is expected from
the K3 if the K3 is indeed connected or maybe had been connected.
ditto on the high quality screwdrivers...
And, replace them every now and then because even high-quality will become worn
over the years. You want the flutes to have nice clean sharp edges -- any
rounding at all (which is common on poor quality new screwdrivers) will result
in stripped screw
Also, while we are on the kit-building theme I have a problem with small parts
such as small capacitors. I know this is not a problem with the SMT kits like
the K3 or KX3 and so on but I remember when I did the 80/30 option for my KX1
there were several capacitors and none of my methods would
I have seen that happen with the KPA thought at one time is was associated with
something happening on the AUXBUS - like the KAT not being powered up or
something. I think maybe there was a firmware upgrade for the KPA and/or KAT
that might have fixed it. Are you using the latest firmware?
Phil,
Yes, those capacitors are getting more and more difficult to read. My
solution is a small lighted handheld magnifier. I think it was designed
for reading - look in your local drugstore. As I recall, I found it at
Walmart.
Just plain magnification is not enough - the lighting helps
It's not so much lacking as it is poorly arranged and almost terminally
under-documented.
11000 and 12000 will need to be user-defined. You'll find add a new
user defined application at the bottom of the Firewall/Applications page.
You'll need to define both ports separately, you only need
I think your on the right track with the kat500 being powerex up first. The
other thing that can cause this is if you try to use the kpa500 on 27mhz.
When field testing, I tried it and the kpa500 does a full fault and
requires power down at the rear, then power up to rset. The FW does a nice
job
If you're REALLY serious about using the right tools, and do any service
work on Japanese radios, you might want to buy a set of JIS (Japanese
Industrial Standard) screwdrivers. The cross drive is different from the
Phillips or Frearson (Reed Prince). Compatible screw heads are usually
Hi Carl.
I am a new K3 owner too.
Finished my K3 a month ago (SN7819).
Assembling the kit is fun. As stated before: Take your time.
I used all anti-static and good tools. Used a wrist strap and anti-static
mat.
The mat and my wrist strap were grounded to the house safety earth.
All boards and
Jim, the key question is what version of firmware is in your KPA500. This is
viewable in the menu, under the FIRMWARE selection.
Also, what is your RADIO selection in the KPA when using it with the KX3?
If you do not have the latest firmware, I would advise you to upgrade. There
was a bug fix
Other than this occasional hiccup, yes. If you've got Fred's KX3 book, check
out pages 146-147, especially figure 9.17 - this is exactly how I've got mine
cabled up.
Last night was a good example of why I wanted to have this flexibility. I was
listening on 160 meter CW with the KX3 and heard
Cool - I just checked - 1.33 was available and I have 1.23; am in the process
of upgrading to the latest firmware as I type this. Will keep an eye on the
amp's behavior over the next week or so and also try to document any strange
procedures I've taken that might cause it.
Jim
On Saturday,
You're mistaken. Unless of course, you're using four 6LQ6s to get 1 KW PEP.
On 1/18/2014 4:56 AM, Randy Lake wrote:
If I am not mistaken I think the proper way of tuning the amp is with a
pulser or sending a string of dits at say 60wpm not a solid tone.
Randy
Hi folks
K3 here owned for about 4 years.
Latest firmware.
Last couple of days at power up the PA Temp is unstable.
LCD flicks between 27 and 40 degs C.
TX and RX same reading.
Noticed the rear fans starting and stopping
Reloaded firmware no change.
Before lifting the hood anyone got a pointer
This seems like a kluge to reduce average power. It would work if you are
manually tuning a tube radio with analog meters, where the meters would
integrate the pulsed signal. Sort of.
It is crazy for digital metering, SWR metering, or an autotuner. In those
cases, the instruments are trying to
Yes I have noticed this. No idea what brings it on.
...bill nr4c
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
Jim Bennett w6...@mac.com wrote:
I recently got a KX3 and have set up my station such that the KX3 can share
the KPA500, KAT500, and several antennas by using a pretty beefy Daiwa
It comes from running firmware in the KPA that has a bug that was fixed some
time ago. Upgrade to the latest firmware (V1.33 at present) and it should go
away.
73!
Jack Brindle, W6FB
On Jan 18, 2014, at 2:17 PM, bill conkling n...@widomaker.com wrote:
Yes I have noticed this. No idea what
Everything Ed said; Check.
I used 18 egg, egg cartons to hold parts and cut card stock in
strips, labelled them according to small part then taped them in
the individual egg holders with those parts in the egg socket.
Didn't knock over like cups would have and kept everything separate
till
Well, I’m hat in hand looking for some advice. Thanks in advance.
Configuration: K3, P3, KPA500, KAT500 to a wire. AUX cable used for control.
Symptom: K3/KAT500 loads fine into the wire with amp either off or in standby.
SWR goes high and no power out when amp is online.
Possibly
Absolutely true. Same for Japanese motorcycles which I repair, JIS is
the only screwdriver to use on those screws. As Charlie said, they
are ID'd by the dot on the head.
Gary
KA1J
If you're REALLY serious about using the right tools, and do any
service
work on Japanese radios, you might
Ooh. Well, I hope it wasn’t punishment for “bending” the NAQP rules:
No greater than 100 W. Use of external amplifiers capable of more than 100 W
output is not allowed.
And yes, my KPA is not running while I play in NAQP...
OK, so please send me a copy of the fault table for evaluation. We will
OK Jack.
I believe in having fun in a contest. For me, antenna challenged, that means
running “high” power (500 W). It also means FYI that I use all assistance
available to me such as skimmers, etc. No, I won’t submit as multi op, since
I’m not. No, I won’t submit at all since I elect to
My perception is that the JIS drivers are the best fit for Elecraft
screws. I've never gotten a response from Elecraft about their choice of
drivers.
73, doug
On 18-Jan-14 16:03, Gary Smith wrote:
Absolutely true. Same for Japanese motorcycles which I repair, JIS is
the only screwdriver to
First, I have no connection with either Ten Tec or Elecraft, except being a
customer.
Second, I have 2K3s and 1KX3
Third, I have an ORION ll, OMNI Vll, Eagle, Argo Vl
Fourth, More other radios than the law allows
Fifth, I am an EE, had my own company and did many products with the same
Due to recent experience, I have to wonder about the KAT500???
Do you have a resonant antenna or a high power dummy load you can go to
directly - removing the KAT500 from the antenna circuit? If it works
without the tuner in line - then you have likely eliminated the KPA500
as the problem.
Gary;
I’m sorry my attempt at humor struck you the wrong way. You would be surprised
at how many avid contesters forget that NAQP is one of the few major HF
contests where high power is not allowed. From out this way, high power would
help a lot, especially from the postage stamp sized lots
Hi Phil,
Thanks for the info. I read the product review.
I will try to find better combination of antenna connection to the ANT1/2/3
ports.
Local noise is very strong in my location, sometimes S7 to S9 in worst case. So
bigger antenna picks up more noise. When my 14MHz quad is connected to
Hi everyone!
I recently bought a used K2 with the KSB2 SSB adapter. The builder did a very
clean, professional building job on both the radio and the KSB2 and I can find
nothing wrong with the construction - i.e. no cold solder joints, no shorts, no
solder bridges, all circuit paths are as
Good Evening,
It was sunny and mild for most of the week. The loggers are taking
advantage of it by clear cutting the eastern side of this mountain.
The road is getting a pounding. Both the county and the logging
company have been dumping gravel on the road but it gets pushed down
faster
The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (Sunday, 1/19/14 ) at 1800z on
14.3035 MHz. I will be net control from western Oregon. See you there.
73,
Phil, NS7P
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home:
Thanks Don -- I will go searching for one of those tomorrow.
73, phil, K7PEH
On Jan 18, 2014, at 10:27 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
Phil,
Yes, those capacitors are getting more and more difficult to read. My
solution is a small lighted handheld magnifier. I think it was
This is a very robust design. I built one in 1982 and it is still going.
73, Mike KS0T
On 1/17/2014 2:04 PM, Roger Last wrote:
John ,
you might like to try this link , http://www.warc.org.uk/proj_psu.php .
I built the one mentioned at the start of the article in 1989 and pleased
to say
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list:
On 1/18/2014 8:23 AM, Phil Debbie Salas wrote:
Take a look at the measured KAT500 isolation numbers in the “Product Reviews”
section of my website atwww.ad5x.com. The isolation varies based on the ports
chosen, and the frequency band. As an example, the isolation on 20 meters has
a
57 matches
Mail list logo
