I gave up running my K3 through a RigRunner for just that
reason. I put in a short lead directly to the battery bank APP
junction strip and things got a lot better. They got even better
with a N8XJK Boost Regulator between the K3 and the junction.
(Tested with 100W into a dummy load.)
73
It would be nice to have test point type jacks on the back of the K3 to
test the voltage drop from the PS through the APP's entering the K3.
This would check the accuracy of the K3 volt-meter as well. I don't
remember what it looks like in the vicinity of the APP's.
The next best thing we
Hi Ron,
I bought the unit from a ham, who finds pleasure and has the equipment to
calibrate. And he did it to the unit and the sensors. This is all
documented and well done. So I could measure my wspr output of 500 uW
were I reached the 1 Mio km per Watt goal.
But I had the troubles described
I have an older K3 with a sub receiver that I am thinking of upgrading.
This is a second radio that I use at my beach house. If I rarely use the sub
receiver, can I just upgrade the main receiver board with one KSYN3A
synthesizer or do I need to purchase two KSYN3A synthesizers?
Irwin Darack
Silly me,
I was just told, that I even have a newer version PMA3
http://www.foxdelta.com/products/pm3.htm
It is sometimes a pain getting older.
73 de Hajo
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Forgot to mention: the RR runs everything else that needs 14v.
On Mon, Oct 26, 2015 at 5:08 PM, Jim Miller wrote:
> I was having too much drop with RR as well. I switched to a 1ft line
> directly to my Samlex 1235M which has been jacked to 14.4v no load. It only
> moves a few
You don't happen to have anything else in line between the power supply
and the K3 do you? I've found those DC distribution panels sold by
certain companies are contributors to significant voltage drop. Your
statement " With the radio connected directly to the PS. I am now
seeing 14.1 VDC
I just checked my radio. Receive shows 13.7 volts. At 100 watts CW key
down transmit it shows 13.3 volts. The current indicated on the power
supply is 18 amps. Power leads are about 2 ft in length being #10
stranded with connectors crimped and soldered at both ends. Also a #10
AWG ground
Thanks Jim.
I used the Kenwood TS-480 when the rig was in the shop, and the audio was
better, fewer pops and hiss, and the Noise Reduction was noticeably better
on the Kenwood 480.
Jim
W6AIM
.
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Hajo:
A power meter based on the AD8307, such as the PM2 uses, can be very
accurate and sensitive but requires calibration. The AD3807 takes RF in and
produces a dc output proportional to the logarithm of the input signal
amplitude.
I have a homebrew version based on a design by W7ZOI that
Well my take.ANYTHING between the power source and radio has
resistance, regardless of how small. Resistance with any amount of
current equals voltage drop. Thus E = IR Where E is the voltage drop,
I is the current and R is the resistance.
I'm not sure what some of those thing are nor
Hi all,
I'm shopping for a very compact (10" or less in width) wireless keyboard to use
with my PX3. Obviously it'll be no-frills, no numeric keypad, etc. The Logitech
360 works great but takes up too much space, IMHO.
The PX3's keyboard feature has been in test for awhile. Can anyone
Wayne with my P3 I use a Flexible roll-up usb keyboard don't remember the brand
off hand.
Fred. N0AZZ
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 26, 2015, at 7:25 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm shopping for a very compact (10" or less in width) wireless keyboard to
> use
Don wrote:
> When it has found a tuning solution, it will display the resulting SWR.
> Tap any button to exit the TUNE process.
It's worth noting that the K1 continues transmitting after the tuning is
complete, until the TUNE process is manually exited.
> ...if you have done a TUNE on all
On Mon,10/26/2015 12:37 PM, Bob McGraw - K4TAX wrote:
In fact, anything in line between the power supply and radio can
contribute to this. Even fuses, switches, power connectors and such.
Any connection that is loose or terminal that is loose will be a
voltage drop point. They just add up.
I was having too much drop with RR as well. I switched to a 1ft line
directly to my Samlex 1235M which has been jacked to 14.4v no load. It only
moves a few mV when loaded to 20A.
IIRC, the cable is now AWG12.
jim ab3cv
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Elecraft
Unless you want to remove the sub receiver, you will need two new synths.
73 Bill AE6JV
On 10/26/15 at 2:55 PM, idar...@gmail.com (KD3TB) wrote:
> I have an older K3 with a sub receiver that I am thinking of upgrading.
> This is a second radio that I use at my beach house. If I rarely use the
Perhaps it's vanity, but I like running my rig off solar power
and batteries. Since I also take the rig out in the field
somewhat frequently, battery power avoids noisy generators.
(Besides, I own the panels and batteries, but don't own a generator.)
In any case, floating batteries requires a
This discussion has got me confused.
If a power supply fails, it is pretty easy to fault find.
If you use the correct size cable for the length you require, then it WILL work.
Discussions on APP and test points seem to me to be a little pedantic as apart
from from a power supply failure I have
If voltage is being checked via the K3 display, I believe there is a series
diode before the internal metering that adds a 0.6V drop in TX?
73, Mike AC5P
On Monday, October 26, 2015 5:08 PM, Bill Frantz
wrote:
Perhaps it's vanity, but I like running my
I am using the same SamLex supply with the K3s Elecraft power cord that came
with the kit. At 100 Watts key down I can just see the voltmeter move maybe
the width of the needle. The readout on the radio does not dim.
Earl, K4KAY
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft
You need two. The K3 cannot handle one of each in the same receiver.
73, Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of KD3TB
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 2:56 PM
To: 'Elecraft Reflector'
Subject: [Elecraft] KSYN3A synthesizer
Dick,
If the main interest is the drop in voltage, the 12V jack will work
fine, no matter how many diodes are in series with it.
So you get 10 volts during RX and 9 volts during TX, that is a 1 volt
drop (OK, that is extreme, but hopefully makes the point).
If you are instead looking for the
Seems to me the display on VFO B is accurate enough for this purpose.
Now to make sure of the accuracy along with voltage drop, measure the
voltage at the power supply terminals. I would expect the voltage at
the power supply terminals and the VFO B display in receive mode to be
identical,
Thanks for all of the great advice. I have made several changes and
here are the results.
I wired my radio directly to the PS with AGW 10 probably about four
feet. Thus removing the radio from the automatic battery switch over
and then from the rigrunner.
I now have the following voltages
Some may recall I had a issue with my KAT500 not connecting to the computer
therefore not allowing me to use the KAT Utility. After checking com ports and
ever purchasing a new KXUSB cable from Elecraft, I sent the unit off to the
mother ship for a look-see. Turns out we lost transistors Q1
I use a Bluetooth version with my Samsung Galaxy 5 phone, and I like it but
I'm not a touch typist. It was only $13 on Amazon. I would call it
lightweight; some might call it flimsy.
73, Jim N7US
-Original Message-
I used several different keyboards, including two from Logitech, but
On 10/26/2015 05:57 PM, Fred Smith wrote:
Wayne with my P3 I use a Flexible roll-up usb keyboard don't remember the brand
off hand.
Fred. N0AZZ
I also have a no-name flexible roll-up keyboard that works fine with the
PX3 but I don't like it. I find I have to hit the key precisely in the
I used several different keyboards, including two from Logitech, but prefer the
slim wireless from Anker. I'm a touch typist and don't need a numeric keypad
for hamming, but I do want full size keys and full spacing. This is the best
I've found:
Nice.
Wayne
On Oct 26, 2015, at 6:39 PM, Marc Veeneman wrote:
> I used several different keyboards, including two from Logitech, but prefer
> the slim wireless from Anker. I'm a touch typist and don't need a numeric
> keypad for hamming, but I do want full size keys and
Hello,
Thanks for your suggestions. It seems that the owners of the W2 use it for
higher power settings than qrpp. So it is natural that nobody could answer
my questions.
So I will continue to use my Pm2 http://www.foxdelta.com/products/pm2.htm .
But in a private discussion I was pointed to a
Folks,
I am not sure if I have some sort of issues or not. My K3 shows 13.7VDC
on RX. When I TX that reading drops to 10.9VDC. Is that a normal drop?
I do not believe this is a K3 issue, but I was wondering if others see
that much drop before I dig into my 12VDC supply system.
Thanks
If the wire gauge is OK and the supply regulation
is not at fault, give some attention to the
connectors at each end of the cable, too. A drop
of 2.8 Volts points to some sort of issue.
73, Phil W7OX
On 10/26/15 9:02 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
On Mon,10/26/2015 8:48 AM, Rich wrote:
My K3 shows
On Mon,10/26/2015 8:48 AM, Rich wrote:
My K3 shows 13.7VDC on RX. When I TX that reading drops to 10.9VDC. Is
that a normal drop?
It's not good. Two possible reasons -- poor regulation of the power
supply and IR drop in the power cable.
How long is the power cable between the K3 and power
Rich,
Yes, that is abnormal.
Either your power supply is sagging or there is too much voltage drop in
the power cable.
To figure out which it is, measure the power supply voltage at its
terminals during transmit. If it is staying "right up there" as it
should, then the problem is in the
That's still too much. Last time I measured my K3, the drop was 0.6 V
on TX at 100W. Cartridge type [AGC] fuses and the holders are common
culprits. I've replaced all of my fuses with the automotive fuses with
the blade type contacts. They present a large contact area, are very
tight, and
Jack, (and others on the list)
Thanks for the pointers. I was unable to get the rs-232 to the
computer working. I have not tried the Aux-bus to the K3 yet. I think
I will contact elecraft service and see if I can send it back for a
look-see by them. I can not tell what it has for
Built and operate the Elecraft K1 transceiver S/N 1112. It has always
functioned perfectly in the past, QRPDXCC etc. I had not used the K1 for
sometime and recently tried to fire it up. The unit includes the KAT1 ATU.
Have been trying to follow the KAT1 operating Instruction Assembly and
Thanks to all. I have check my PS and it does not fluctuate even a
tenth of a volt on TX.With the radio connected directly to the PS.
I am now seeing 14.1 VDC and 12.0 VDC on TX. So I need to look closer
at the wire gauge and connectors. That is still about 2VDC drop.
Thanks for the
That's way more drop than I experience with a 4S1P LiFePO4. Things to
check:
Length and gauge of wire [remember to double the length when calculating
resistance, it's a round trip for the electrons].
Poor regulation in the power supply or depleted battery or battery at
the end of useful
Are there easy step by step instructions on how to setup the K3s for
running on Reverse Beacon?
This will be my first introduction into digi modes.
Thanks in advance,
N1BBR
--
bw...@fastmail.net
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Guess I'm more empirically than theoretically oriented, but my first act
would be to touch and feel the cable and connectors after allowing the K3 to
draw full current for a minute or two. Even 2 volts at 10 amps is 20 watts.
That's enough to cause heating you should feel very quickly if it's
Hi Rich:
A couple of more things. First do the math. Assuming 20 amps of transmit
current (that's my rig @100 watts output) with a 2 volt drop is 40 watts of
lost energy (not my rig). That also happens to be the power rating of my
soldering iron. To point, something is likely to be getting warm.
Hi,
That is routinely tested by ARRL. From the K3/100 review in January 2009
QST:
Receive-transmit turnaround time (tx delay): SSB, 12 ms; FM, 9 ms. Unit is
Not specified. suitable for use on AMTOR.
So it's probably the user.
AB2TC - Knut
David Cutter wrote
> Sorry for the thread drift, but,
Dick,
First make certain the ATU menu parameter is set to "tun".
Then hold both the buttons in the upper right of the front panel
together to initiate a TUNE.
If the KAT1 already has a tuning solution in place, the process will go
quickly and you may have to listen closely to hear relays
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