Only my personal views of course. I've used both since their each started and
have the paid-for versions of them (the free HRD is not the same as the
paid-for version).
4K3 can read/write the KX3 memories and their internal little labels. HRD can't
control the KX3 memories directly, BUT it
Just my personal opinion with experience of both
There is not much difference between the paid version and the latest free
version of HRD,
Both compliment each other and work together - W4K3 works with HRD, so I would
go with
the latest free version of HRD and ALSO the W4K3. They do overlap
Is there a mod required to use the KX3 outside ham bands?
Jack
W4GRJ
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This
Jack,
Contact support, they can send you a firmware mod.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/13/2016 8:01 AM, Jack Satterfield wrote:
Is there a mod required to use the KX3 outside ham bands?
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Steve,
If you are set to data submode AFSK A or FSK D you should not have REV
on - those submodes are normally LSB.
Hold the ALT button to change from REV to Normal.
That is a per-band setting.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/12/2016 7:35 PM, Stephen Shearer wrote:
OK, Trying to use KX3/PX3 with FSK D
Long time user of HRD and after the growing pains of new owners it has
settled down and for me, the major kinks have been ironed out.
I do however, use both HRD and Win4K3.
I don't run the HRD main program, but allow Win4K3 to launch and control
DM780, HRDlog, WSJT-X and JT-AlertX.
They all play
Thought I had it correct. One issue when comparing the onboard Codex to the
outboard M-Audio Delta 44.
I am running two versions of MMTTY at the same time.
AXETTY set up for main receiver and using left MMTTY channel.
Second MMTTY set up for second receiver and right channel in MMTTY
Line out on
I am using the last free version available - it is perfect for my needs:
RIG CONTROL. The rest of the stuff is all fluff to me - unused.
I run both my K3 and TS480 from the screen by chasing the mouse. There
are a couple of buttons that do not indicate as they should, and I would
buy the new
Are there keyboard shortcuts on either of these programs. Can you update the
elecraft firmware and software from either of these programs?
Thanks much.
On Feb 13, 2016, at 6:13 AM, John Kramer wrote:
> Just my personal opinion with experience of both
>
> There is not much
Hi,
You can define the function keys F1 to F8 to be any macro for the radio that
you wish. Macros can contain any combination of K3, KPA500, KAT500 and P3
commands.
73
-Original Message-
From: Larry McCreary
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 9:46 AM
To: John Kramer
Cc:
How do I set up FLDIGI Mac to decode the main and sub receivers in different
Windows?
Ray
W8LYJ
Sent from my
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I'm using the K3 Terminal and FSK D mode for the RTTY contest and am doing
"okay" but have the following questions:
1. My ALC indicator shows 6 or 7 bars, more than I would like. Is there any
way to adjust the output in FSK D mode?
2. In the K3 Terminal, is there any way to have an incrementing
Paul,
The ALC bars is not relevant when using FSK D (or PSK D), that is only
for soundcard driven data modes.
K3 Terminal is there for convenience, and while is does the job, it was
not intended to be a "logger", so no serial number incrementing is possible.
For FSK D, take a look at MMTTY
Thanks Don
On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 10:22 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Paul,
>
> The ALC bars is not relevant when using FSK D (or PSK D), that is only for
> soundcard driven data modes.
>
> K3 Terminal is there for convenience, and while is does the job, it was
> not intended
Larry,
To answer one of your questions, the ONLY program that can update the
K3/K3S/KX3 firmware is the (free) Elecraft utility program.
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
On 13 Feb 2016 16:46, Larry McCreary wrote:
Are there keyboard shortcuts on either of these
Larry,
The Elecraft firmware can only be updated by using the appropriate
specific Utilities - K3 Utility, P3 Utility, KPA500 Utility, KX3
Utility, PX3 Utility, KXPA100 Utility, etc.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/13/2016 9:46 AM, Larry McCreary wrote:
Are there keyboard shortcuts on either of these
K3/100-F, s/n 2513, purchased in 2009, has been my backup since 2013.
Accessories include
KAT3-F tuner
KDVR3 - DVR
KXV3 - second receiver
2.7KkHz filter in both receivers
KXV3 - transverter interface
2011 updates at the factory:
New finals
K3DSP upgrade
K3 Synth stiffener
VFO tuning noise
On 2/11/16 3:13 PM, Bill Frantz wrote:
(4) If you are breaking things, such as #8 copper wire, cover them
with blankets to minimize the danger of having them snap through the air.
(5) Keep everyone far enough away so flying wire won't hit them, or
keep them in a closed vehicle.
Those are
FOR SALE: K3/100 Serial Number 8236, Factory assembled/installed, from
non-smoking home with no pets.
100 watt transceiver, internal automatic antenna tuner with 2nd antenna
jack, RX antenna IF Out and Xverter interface, high performance
subreceiver, high stability reference oscillator,
I get great reports from a Koss SB/45 headset. $25 delivered from
Amazon. I also have a $10 Logitech gaming headset that gets excellent
reports but it is not quite as comfortable and the Koss. Or my 50 year
old Shure 444.
You do not need to spend $200 for a mic to get great sounding audio
>
> p.s. I think it's cheaper and better to just purchase harddrawn copper or
> copperweld wire. YMMV
>
It’s hard to disagree with this. I can just see myself with a 100’ of wire
tied to my mailbox on one end, pulling the other end down the street on the
bumper of my car — wait .. there
Hello Elecraft subscribers,
I've been a ham for quite some time as a Technician class using
2-meter. I'm retired now with more time for my hobbies.
I'll be taking my General class exam soon and moving on to HF.
I've built many Heath kits in the day, so the Elecraft kits are striking
Based on your current operation and your present listing of equipment,
I'd suggest the K3S-100. You have a tuner so no internal ATU unless you
want the internal automatic convenience. You have a good mike, I use
one of those myself. As to filters, the standard filter is most
adequate and
Copper is ductile, not elastic. So pulling it will cause it to stretch but
when it breaks it does not return to its original length releasing a lot of
energy. It will simply separate at the point of failure, as others noted.
Even so, I am careful any time I'm applying a lot of pressure to
Hi All,
If cost is a problem then the amplifier is one accessory which is easy to
add later! When building my two K3 radios, I always first built a 10 Watt
unit and got it working before adding the amplifier.One of the nice
features of the K3 / K3S is the ability to add modules later.
Tom,
I just finished building my second K3S for my Beach House. The instructions
in the K3S assembly manual are excellent and very gratifying once you have
built it. Just take your time. I only dedicated 3 hours each day to make
sure I did not make any mistakes.
I would go simple to start with.
I'm just tossing this in as a thought.
Wire is cheap, and you can find stuff that is pretty much invisible. If
you can get the antenna outside the attic, that'd be a really good move.
You can keep the existing attic antenna while experimenting with what
you can hide outside.
73 --
Clay,
Congratulations on the license!
I suggest DXLabs suite instead, its *free*, great support (the only one
that comes close to Elecraft in support, maybe even better) and does a
great job of interfacing with my K3, with great dxcc and other award
tracking.
http://www.dxlabsuite.com/
Hi guys, I have just received the P3 TX Mon (easy to install and get working).
I also have an LP-100A which is in series right next to the monitoring head of
the P3 monitor. The KPA500 and the KAT500 both indicate an SWR of between 1
and 1.2 and the LP100A indicates an SWR of 1.05 into my
All true Ron, but remember that copper is only the main element in the alloy at
hand.
The one time you take something in safety for granted is the one time it turns
on you. It waits...
73,
Rick nhc
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 13, 2016, at 9:47 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>
Tom, we've all been there. I recently went through the same process you are
and it's very typical.
Your questions start with >>> and the answers follow.
>>>I'll be taking my General class exam soon and moving on to HF.
CONTRATULATIONS!!!
>>>I've built many Heath kits in the day, so the Elecraft
I'm dialing around and hear what sounds like RTTY. My K3S is showing the
text being received with ease.
Problem: I can't get anything intelligible to show in my software. I'm using
FLDIGI under unix (raspberry pi running debian..rocks).
How do I figure out what mode is being used? Is there a way
Are you using Data A or Data D?
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3s-Operator-frustrations-tp7614024p7614025.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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I'm not sure what that means.
I'm in Data mode on the K3S, the display correctly shows the text,
FLDIGI is in RTTY 45 and the water fall is bracketed over the received
signals..
Apparently there's a contest underway.
Jerry Moore
CDXA, INDEXA, SKCC, Fists
AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324
Hi.
I'm not sure how perfect the wound inductors need to be when
assembling the K1 filter board.
Here's mine:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2mjyTRatLHGNXZwVFZXc0FISFU
Do these look good enough? I did L9 first, and I feel like L10 is
better. Also, I did not notice at the time that L9 is
I recently built a PX3 and was going through some of the learning process.
I was changing FixTrack and FixMode settings and I am not sure what I did,
but in either FixTrack setting, the signals seemed to converge from both
directions to the cursor, and when they did, I was tuned to a CW signal.
> I'm in Data mode on the K3S, the display correctly shows the text,
> FLDIGI is in RTTY 45 and the water fall is bracketed over the received
> signals..
Which DATA sub-mode? If you are using the K3's internal decoder for
RTTY, it's probably AFSK A. AFSK A is a *lower sideband* mode while
Ray,
I don’t think it will. I think cocoaModem will allow two receivers, but I don’t
know about Fldigi.
Best place to ask, though, is on the linuxham Yahoo Group.
73,
Joel - W4JBB
> On Feb 13, 2016, at 8:59 AM, Gmail wrote:
>
> How do I set up FLDIGI Mac to decode the
Jerry,
I highly recommend referring to this page for assistance in identifying
what you see in the waterfall display as well as what you hear from your
speaker.
http://www.w1hkj.com/modes/index.htm
Good luck with your new learning experience!
73, Tony K4QE
On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 1:09 PM,
Here's something that may be of interest to solder-minded K2 owners pondering
filtering options. I've built and installed a KAF2 kit with several component
changes to make it a little wider in bandwidth, so as to be more useful in
general CW operating, scanning the bands and contests rather
Once again Yahoo and mailman between them have conspired to mess up my link!
Let's see if I can make it come out right this time:
http://www.qsl.net/ve3sma/ModifiedKAF2.pdf
73,Steve VE3SMA
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Tom,
Your HF operating aspirations will tell you which options will be best
for your K3S.
Since you will be a newcomer to HF, I would suggest you start with the
basic 100 watt K3S until you discover what you really want and develop
your HF operating style.
With your antenna situation, I would
On 16-02-12 03:04 PM, Aaron Scott wrote:
Just wondering. I operate my K2 from a 7 amp hour battery that is recharged
by a solar panel. Is there a way to set up a system like that using the
KBT2 internal battery from Elecraft?
The solar panel I am using is just a 2.5 watt 167 MAh amorphous solar
Mark,
Those inductors should work fine. The important thing is to count the
turns correctly. Each time the wire passes through the center of the
core, that is one turn - in other words, a straight wire through the
core is 1 turn, a full wrap around the core is 2 turns.
The advantage of
I realize your questions were about the K3s, but have you considered
the KX3? Since cost is an important consideration for you (isn't for
all of us?):
KX3-K = $949.95
MH3 = $59.95
KXFL3 = $149.95 (optional)
KXAT3 = $199.95 (optional)
total = $1009.90 ($1359.80)
to add 100w:
KXPA-100-K $749.95
I posted my K3 / 100 for sale on QRZ
https://forums.qrz.com/index.php?threads/elecraft-k3-100.511487/
Options installed and that come with the radio
- Elecraft MH2 microphone
- KAT3 Internal Tuner
- KPA3 100 Watt internal PA
- KXV3 RX Ant. I/O, Transverter, IF Output
- 2.7kHz 5 pole filter
-
Tom,
Great job with the new release for Win4K3 Suite 1.790!
I just tested my function key macros I used in N1MM+ to control key
commands. Now, no matter which Win4K3 Suite window is in control, I can
use all the same Function Keys.
There is a recent update of the Elecraft programming manual.
Thank you everyone!!
I received many replies on what to purchase, what options, used, new, etc..
I have a lot to go through now, I'm very glad you all took the time to give
me so many ideas!
I wasn't expecting such a great response, hams are the best!
-Tom
On 2/11/2016 9:49 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> You don't see it unless there's significant tension on it. My 80/40 fan
> dipoles are up 140 ft and are fed with RG11. The tensioning weight is
> about 95#. I must trim it every 2-3 years.
Does anyone use the strong-link / weak link system that is common
I also want to thank Tom for the new release; I just upgraded to 64 bit Win7,
and all sorts of mischief ensued. Tom helped sort out driver problems with
Com0Com, and with the new Win4K3 I'm back remoting my station. Great support
and excellent software.
73, Chuck, N8CL
Yep. I do, but then like you I've worked on many shipboard systems.
Also I'm old enough not to consider it a thrill to go out in a mid-winter
storm to restore my wire!
73 Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
On 2/11/2016 9:49 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> You don't see it unless there's
I built this tuner years ago but never used it since the internal tuner did
all I needed for my KX1 (and ditto for the KX3).
Like new $125 shipped in the 48.
73,
Erik K7TV
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On Sat,2/13/2016 8:30 AM, Ken wrote:
p.s. I think it's cheaper and better to just purchase harddrawn copper
or copperweld wire. YMMV
It's certainly good to see that you guys who have never done it know so
much about how it's done.
And copperweld is a VERY BAD idea.
73, Jim K9YC
On Sat,2/13/2016 3:43 PM, Phil Kane wrote:
Does anyone use the strong-link / weak link system that is common in
shipboard wire antenna installations? This prevents the antenna wire
breaking in the event of severe storms.
Most of us with wires in trees use a weight and pulley system. Those who
I have been having trouble in the wpx rtty test, my k3 has been having
issues with mmtty keying the rig. I have the in/out lines on k3 going
to in/out on sound card as they should, and the ptt-key set to drt-rts.
The problem is, part of the time the mic setting is set to abt 3-4 with
5 bars
Don't know how to price this; open to offers.
Comes with software cd and USB cable.
73,
Erik K7TV
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On 2/10/2016 1:08 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:
> A long time ago, I visited the transmitter room at the top of One
> Shell Plaza in Houston. There were nine 100 kW FM transmitters on the
> same antenna. The RF plumbing was something to behold, with big stubs
> like that all over the place.
That's
I just built a new K1 and had some problems with the output power. To make
a long story short I
ended up having to lower the values of R5 and R11... This brought the
power levels up on
the 40 M band from 1.5 to 6.5 Watts and on the 20 M band from 0.5 to 5.5
Watts. Figured all was well now
I have not tried to run fldigi with the two receivers on my Mac,
but I think you will need to make two folders with separate
copies of the program and launch them separately. There may be
issues with the hidden files used to keep the program settings.
(Giving them different names may help with
I just built a new K1 and had some problems with the output power. To make
a long story short I
ended up having to lower the values of R5 and R11... This brought the
power levels up on
the 40 M band from 1.5 to 6.5 Watts and on the 20 M band from 0.5 to 5.5
Watts.
Figured all was well
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