Hi Iran,
I changed the subject line to reflect that this
thread is continuing as a general troubleshooting
exercise with your K2.
The NE602 product detector has a balanced
output circuit and unless you use a differential
scope probe (or do the CH1 - CH2 trick with
your single-ended probes) you
Hi guys,
I've got a k2/100 giving me fits! After about 30 minutes of qso time, output
shuts down completely on 20 and 30 meters. After a period of time (15 minutes
to a couple hours) it will come back on and then run happily for as long as I
want. For instance, november sweepstakes it shut
Gary,
Sounds like you've got a thermal intermittent issue in the K2. I'd
examine the toroids' soldering to be
sure the enamel's been completely removed. Reflow all with a good hot
iron - sometimes a solder
connection can look okay, but still be bad (or worse, intermittent ).
Alan
Alan D.
My reason for troubleshooting is there is NO SOUND. I can hear the sidetone
when I turn it on. I cannot hear the 7000hz tone.
1. My reference oscillator output is 0.511.a little low.
2. VCO output is okay.
3. BFO output is okay.
4. Mixer, I.F. amplifier, Crystal filter = 0.00
Ron,
Is this a newly built K2 that has not worked before, or has it once
worked and has now failed?
The DC voltage chart listings for the Control Board are for the
condition that the Front Panel is removed. If you have the Front Panel
plugged in, the U2 voltages will be quited different.
I
Hello,
Last night I was working on an older K2 S/N 02XX. I was going to install a
SSB module and a RS232 adapter that I bought from a forum member. I
installed the SSB with no problems. When I installed the RS232 adapter and
turned it on, I got an error message (080) I think), I quickly
Hi John:
Now, as I was reviewing solder joints, etc., I noted that one of the
solder pads for C4 was touching the outer can tab of L1.
My question:
Is this a solder bridge, or is there supposed to be a connection
between C4 pad and outer (ground) tab of L1?
I looked on N0SS's PCB pix and I
I SHOULD be embarrassed by my mistakes...but, I figure, I am learning
more electronics in the last few months than I ever did in my early
years. So, I really don't mind sharing them with the group. Hope
the group doesn't mind.
Here's the latest news:
Yes, as noted before I found errors
John:
Don't use the pictures for this, use the schematic. There you'll
see that one end of C4 is grounded, as is the can of L1.
best wishes,
dave belsley, w1euy
On Jun 7, 2006, at 9:05 PM, John Wiener wrote:
I SHOULD be embarrassed by my mistakes...but, I figure, I am
learning more
email
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 troubleshooting
I SHOULD be embarrassed by my mistakes...but, I figure, I am learning
more electronics in the last few months than I ever did in my early
years. So, I really don't mind sharing them with the group. Hope
the group doesn't mind.
Here's the latest
Hi everyone!
I am diligently trying to solve transmitter probs on a nearly
finished K2.
I would like to list here the aberrant readings so that someone much
brighter than I might see the source of the problem.
If this is an inappropriate use of the group, please let me know and
I will
John,
The PA Transistor Test values will vary depending on your particular DMM -
some will show forward voltage while others will show ohms. Your .55
reading on the base to emitter with the probes either way would indicate
something to be concerned about - but since you are testing in-circuit,
Hi everyone,
Hope Memorial Day is fun (and meaningful) for all.
I am rechecking T4. Leads 1 2 are Green hookup wire in 2 turns on
the binocular core, leads 3 4 are white in 3 turns.
I think I have wound it correctly...it looks the same as the diagrams
in Figures 6-28 and 6-29.
Just to
John,
Yes, you have it correct. Each pass of the wire through both holes is one
turn.
Note for the near future - when you put in the 'links', these bare wires go
only through one hole of the binocular core.
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original Message-
Hope Memorial Day is fun (and meaningful) for
Good Day,
I have completed the assembly of the control board, front panel, and initial rf
board
and assembled same. On power up the background illuminates and some clicking
occurs but
nothing else. I have disassembled and rechecked component locations and
retouched the
solder connections
to
ensure you have contact with the circuit board.
Bob
WB6KWT
- Original Message -
From: Scott Cashel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2004 9:55 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Troubleshooting
Good Day,
I have completed the assembly of the control board
,
etc.) to give further informative advice (at this point we can only guess
based on the limited information available).
73,
Don W3FPR
- Original Message -
From: Scott Cashel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2004 12:55 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2
Scott,
Check that you have soldered pin 1 of the LCD driver U1 on the K2 front
panel board. I and others have missed this joint. Rather difficult to rectify
afterwards, though can be done.
Bob, G3VVT
K2 #4168
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- Original Message -
From: Bob Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2004 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Troubleshooting
Scott,
If you aren't seeing anything on LCD display, go back and check the
soldering on the display
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