As is often the case, connecting directly to the battery for the negative
lead is misunderstood. In today's world, it depends. The Battery
Monitoring System (BMS) is a big deal in most of today's vehicles. To
function properly, we should NOT CONNECT to the battery's negative terminal.
That
On 8/24/2020 8:17 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
Side bonus, was that the 12VDC ground plane was so good afterwards, that
I have been able to take out a lot of the home run grounds from a bunch
of lights, et al... ofsetting weight gain by some bit.
Important fundamental concept, Clay, that I learned
Yup When I did my alternator and battery upgrade (including a
complete replacement of the power/ground cables with much heavier
cable), for my stereo install, I discovered that very thing even in
a TRUCK with a frame.
I mapped out and installed massive ground continuity cables from
"Had to disconnect main battery terminals to reboot the computer to get
home." 440 in my old Ford Ranger just cancelled the cruise control if
it was engaged. Just like Windoze Jim!
Glad your house has survived ... really hoping for Bob's.
73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe
On 8/24/2020 9:03 AM, Mike Short wrote:
RFI on audio, agreed. Noise on DC, not so much. Routing is the most
important factor for DC power. It is hard to get enough turns on the
proper size wire to make a difference.
Yes, routing is important. But what you're missing is that a major issue
is
Yes, and this should definitely be twisted pair, contrary to what's on a
highly regarded mobile site. Also, radio equipment in vehicles should
NOT by bonded to the frame/chassis/vehicle metal.
OTOH, coax return for HF mobile antennas SHOULD be bonded to vehicle
metal, because that's what
I highly recommend you run a power lead to the battery (ideally) or the
main power bus in the car interior rather than tap off the limited
accessory socket. Keep well under the fuse rating that feeds the
accessory plug if you go that route.
Steve WM6P
On 8/24/2020 11:56 AM, Ted Edwards W3TB wrote:
My thanks to everybody.
It is rather overwhelming for just a Sunday afternoon of portable
operation in remote counties powered by the car.
I will really want to keep simple in those terms.
In that contest, I'd simply use smaller gauge twisted
My thanks to everybody.
It is rather overwhelming for just a Sunday afternoon of portable operation
in remote counties powered by the car.
I will really want to keep simple in those terms.
Reading through all this several times. Thanks to all who contributed.
On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 11:26 AM
Of course it applies. Mother nature does not pay attention to what we
CALL things. It is quite common for DC and mains power to carry AF and
RF currents. That's how most noise is radiated -- as a common mode
signal on cables connected to equipment that includes noise sources.
BTW -- as
RFI on audio, agreed. Noise on DC, not so much. Routing is the most
important factor for DC power. It is hard to get enough turns on the proper
size wire to make a difference.
On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 10:24 AM Jim Brown
wrote:
> On 8/24/2020 8:11 AM, Mike Short wrote:
> > Twisting the wires
On 8/24/2020 8:11 AM, Mike Short wrote:
Twisting the wires doesn’t do anything.
Au contraire! Twisting provides an excellent rejection of of crosstalk,
including RFI. Have you not noticed that CAT5/6/7 cables are four
tightly twisted pairs, each with a slightly different twist ratio, all
Twisting the wires doesn’t do anything.
On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 09:28 Clay Autery wrote:
> IF it were me, I would run two NEW, 10GA or better high strand count
>
> wires (twisted by hand or drill) from the battery to the cabin with
>
> appropriate fuses in BOTH POS and NEG lines, and the
IF it were me, I would run two NEW, 10GA or better high strand count
wires (twisted by hand or drill) from the battery to the cabin with
appropriate fuses in BOTH POS and NEG lines, and the Anderson PP
connector on the end.
Ideally, I would also put a SPST switch in the POS (my pref), or a DPST
Go to K0BG.com and read everything. His site is probably the best resource
on the internet for mobile operations.
Mike
On Sun, Aug 23, 2020 at 3:17 PM Rick NK7I wrote:
> Not only is the accessory circuit shared with others, it is often loaded
> with noises from the electronics in the vehicle.
Not only is the accessory circuit shared with others, it is often loaded
with noises from the electronics in the vehicle. They can harm both
your RX and TX signals.
It takes a little time to run #12 ROMEX (with 40 or 50 A mobile,
self-resetting circuit breakers at the battery to protect the
In the circuit just before the K3.
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On
Behalf Of Ed K1EP
Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2020 11:32 AM
To: Ted Edwards W3TB
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 going expeditionary
You could do that. I wouldn't advise it for other
You could do that. I wouldn't advise it for other reasons. Why don't you
measure the current at different power levels when on a power supply? There
is a current display on the radio. The cigarette plug is not directly
connected to the battery. There is likely to be poor connections resulting
in
I am planning to put my K3 in the car for the upcoming Tennessee QSO Party
so that I can go rover/expeditionary.
With that comes a question: Powering from that accessory socket which
appears limited to 15 amps instead of the 20 amps that the K3 wants at full
power, do I understand right that
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