Hi Russ,
Those light blue caps should be marked "u1J100" and if they are, those
are 0.1uf (104) caps. They would be for C58 and C59. I use a lighted,
magnifying lamp here. That is the only way I can read those things ;-)
73,
Dave, W8FGU
On 1/31/2020 11:01:45 AM, "kg7vq01" wrote:
During
Thanks, Don.
The module is working, i hear FT-8 (sigh). Now to the alignment of the
module.
Am 03.11.18 um 15:42 schrieb Don Wilhelm:
Martin,
No re-alignment of the KAT2 wattmeter should be necessary if it was
already correct.
--
73, Martin
Ohne CW ist es nur CB...
Martin,
No re-alignment of the KAT2 wattmeter should be necessary if it was
already correct.
On the base K2, do check the voltage at the left end of R30 to make sure
it is between 1.0 volts and 7.0 volts (1.5 to 6.5 volts is better) at
the low frequency and high frequency ends of your
Don,
Thanks for the info.
--mark/ae0mm
‐‐‐ Original Message ‐‐‐
On Saturday, September 29, 2018 12:19 PM, Don Wilhelm
wrote:
> Mark,
>
> That is not abnormal.
>
> It is normal for the current required for one band to be a bit different
> than for other bands, and yours is not out of
Mark,
That is not abnormal.
It is normal for the current required for one band to be a bit different
than for other bands, and yours is not out of line. Yes, the KAT2 draws
a bit more current than without it - that is true for any option.
Move the CAL CUR setting up to 3.50 Amps.
73,
Don
Don,
I've done the bridge null adjustment several times. The red c55 trimmer
capacitor is very touchy. Using a ceramic screwdriver, I'm able to get the
reading in the 7 to 10 range, but after a few moments, or hours, it will read
30 and sometimes up to 90 at 7100KHz into a dummy load on 5w
Mark,
First, set the CAL CUR in the K2 menu to 3.50 - and also make certain
the power supply voltage as displayed on the K2 display is not dropping
significantly during a TUNE. If it drops more than 1 volt suspect your
power supply or the power cable. A low supply voltage can cause the K2
Bob,
The '--' in the ATU menu means that the KAT2 firmware is not being seen
by the K2 MCU.
Take a good look at the point where the control cable is attached to the
KAT2 control board - look for broken wires.
Do the same for the header that plugs to K2 Control Board P4.
Make certain the
Tim,
When ANT2 is selected, do you hear signals if the feedline is connected
to ANT1? Are they at the same level as when ANT1 is selected?
If the answer is YES to both questions, then the most likely thing is
that relay K18 is not switching. If the signals are reduced when ANT2
is selected,
Aaron,
The KAT2 needs only 2 watts to TUNE - in fact the firmware limits the
power to 2 watts during a TUNE.
What was the SWR reported when you tried to tune the end-fed antenna?
My guess is that the SWR was high.
The most common cause of LO P message is that the K2 PA cannot deliver 2
watts
Mike,
You might try the bridge null a few times and take the average
position. It is quite 'touchy', and yes it may vary a bit from trial to
trial. As noted in the manual, the reading at the null depends on stray
capacitance in the KAT2 - so if you moved anything it will change a bit,
Tyler,
Your results are unusual.
Remove the KAT2. Does the base K2 still work OK? If not, something has
happened in the meantime.
It would seem that you do not have a good path between the K2 and the
antenna (or perhaps a short to ground).
Check the KAT2 carefully for solder bridges.
Hans,
Yes, you may shorten the wire, it is the number of turns that count, not
the wire length.
However, it is usually easier to just spread the turns out until it
tightens up a bit.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/10/2013 5:27 PM, Hans Elfelt Bonnesen wrote:
On the KAT2 a number of toroid cores are
Gil,
When you say you completed your KAT2 build, did you complete all of the
final calibration steps, specifically the bridge null adjustment (p. 16 of
the KAT2 manual) and the power calibration adjustment (p. 17)? I would be
surprised if you could make those adjustments successfully and yet
Got it. Thanks to Doug, W4DAS, Gary Surrency at Elecraft and my trusty
magnifying glass everything is working well.
Chuck
NN7U
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Looks like the replies were directly to you so they don't show on the list.
What turned out to be the trouble?
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Operator error(s). A relay in backwards, and a solder bridge that I cleaned
up too well, removing the trace beneath it. Replaced the solder bridge and
all was well.
_
From: AF6NI [via Elecraft] [mailto:ml-node+s365791n755950...@n2.nabble.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 6:28 PM
To:
I somehow lost two emails to the ether so I can't do a direct reply, but
thanks for the response. Yes, I'm sure it's pin 7 that has the 4.6 volts on
it. Pin 8 has the expected 6 volts, and all the other voltages listed in
the manual check out.
NN7U
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Good morning Don, thanks very much for taking the time to respond. Good to
know the C55 cal is in spec. As for the SWR sorry for the confusion but I am
getting as the book says 1.1 SWR and on some bands 1.5so all is well I
would assume?
Mike
VE3WDM
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Mike,
Yes, 1.5 is quite OK - your original email said 5:1 and that must have
been a typo.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 4/12/2012 5:54 AM, VE3WDM wrote:
Good morning Don, thanks very much for taking the time to respond. Good to
know the C55 cal is in spec. As for the SWR sorry for the confusion but I am
Mike,
The 009 to 010 on the balance is OK.
Under what conditions do you read an SWR of 5:1? Is that after a TUNE
has been completed? Or is that reading the SWR on your antenna with the
ATU menu set to CAL S?
What that statement in the manual is trying to say is that an SWR of 1.2
or even
Ariel,
Check the grounds. What you are saying is that when the chassis ground
is connected to the base K2 your KAT2 is not recognized.
Make certain the ground side of the connectors (KAT2 input coax and
speaker wire) are on the correct side.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/22/2011 7:34 PM, Ariel Jacala
Yup ... I was wrong again, but the trouble is I can't figure out why. I
mean, it's easy to verify the cloverleaf pattern with EZNEC and I have
done so, but I know that I have modeled something similar with an
off-center feed in the past and gotten an end-fire pattern. As soon as
I figure
I've gotten to the point, that before I say anything about a model, I
actually run it and play with it, to make sure I haven't forgotten
something, or remembered something wrong.
As to that particular antenna a center fed half wave antenna is troublesome.
The better version of that if one wants
Sorry to interject, but a fullwave fed at the 25% point has a clover leaf
pattern. It only has the two halfwaves in phase colinear behavior when fed
very near the center. Even fed at 45% it has a significant cloverleaf lobe
and a NULL in the center Easy to verify with any modeling program. 73,
Another simple end fed antenna was described by W2FRH in QST, March 2011, A
Near End-Fed Antenna... . I just returned from a week at the Outer Banks and
used this antenna with my K2 working DX from Europe and South America, plus
several states. No trees near the beach house so it was a sloper
Steve Yates, AA5TB, has a very informative web page on EFHW antennas and how to
build a parallel tuned circuit with a link coupled feed at the radio end to
reduce the 1800 to 5000 ohm impedance to a 50 ohm non-reactive load. He has
examples of both QRP and QRO versions of the circuit. I built
And for those with more money than brains (that would be me) you can
purchase an end fed halfwave antenna from the Emergency Radio Club of
Hawaii for $42. I bought one and it works great with the entire
Elecraft family. Great to have a simple yet efficient portable antenna
that fits into a
Stan, that's not a true half wave radiator on most bands. They suggest a
wire length of 20 or 30 feet, which will be efficient on 12 through 6 meters
where it's at least 1/2 wavelength long, but on the lower frequency bands
it's just a short random length wire with an auto-transformer to assist
Ron, the one I purchased for $42 is for 20 meters and came with a 33
foot radiator. A mathematical half wave at 14 MHz would work out to
32.8 feet. It did not come with a counterpoise nor was one recommended.
It loaded up nicely for me as received. I later tried a short
counterpoise and did
33 feet is a 1/2 wave on 20 meters all right. I was using the figures given in
the homebrew article that suggested a much shorter wire.
Yes, Wayne came up with the 28' radiator with 33'counerpoise as a combination
that the little ATU in the KX1 could handle on all the bands it covers. The KX1
Just speculating -- I bet a half-wavelength wire in inverted-L configuration
fed at the
base with a parallel-tuned circuit would work well. The high-current part of
the vertical
piece would be at the top, there would be plenty of current in the horizontal
part too,
and very little local
Phil,
You might try a 67' length of wire (EFFW antenna). I've used that (and a
32' EFHW) on 20 a lot with my K1 with the KAT1 installed...tunes to
close to 1:1 just fine.
Have fun at Crater Lake. There are some neat places along the rim for
hamming. It's a 2000 mile drive (one way) for me but
I'm not sure I see the advantage. A full wave end fed antenna would
theoretically have the same very high feedpoint impedance, and would
additionally blow most of it's radiated energy at a fairly high angle
off the ends of the antenna instead of broadside at a lower angle. If
you find it
Actually Dave, a full wavelength wire will have a 4 leaf clover
pattern - that is neither broadside to the antenna, nor off the ends.
Check out the pattern for a 1 wavelength long wire in the ARRL Antenna
Book. The maximum radiation is about 28 degrees from the wire - the
radiation from the
I believe you must get into several wavelengths before you get significant
end directivity from a long wire. My reference says that the angle of the
main lobe to the antenna is about 55 degrees when the wire is a wavelength
long, compared to 90 degrees at 1/2 wavelength. It takes a wire more than
Yes, Don ... you are totally correct. For some reason I was thinking
about a full wave antenna fed at the 25% point (I have built such
antennas before), which looks like two colinear half waves fed out of
phase. The current phasing along the antenna would indeed be much
different and give a
Phillip Shepard wrote:
I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a
long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending
on
the 20m frequency. I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer
got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1. I added another foot of wire (now 36'),
and
it
The simple answer to your question is no. An end fed halfwave would
theoretically present a few thousand ohms to your feedline, giving you
an SWR of several tens to one.
Consider this it is likely that the tuner with the greater loss
will more easily give you a match to a difficult
...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Gilbert
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 4:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
The simple answer to your question is no. An end fed halfwave would
theoretically present a few
Phil,
As others have responded, attempting to tune the end of a half-wave wire
is beyond the range of most tuners, including the KAT2.
Your added wire provided a compromise length, because the feedpoint
impedance was reduced.
Because the impedance of the EFHW is high, my favorite tuning
Thanks for all of the great advice. This reflector is a fountain of
knowledge! I checked the 33' antenna/16' counterpoise combination with an
MFJ259B, and it indicated over 25:1 SWR. Extending the antenna to 39' and
adding a second radial of 6' gave an SWR reading of about 11:1 with the
antenna
An EFHW is a very efficient antenna, but the usual tuner needs help. One
way to use the EFHW is to put a toroidal winding at the base of the antenna,
between the tuner and the antenna. Bifilar or trifilar or quadrifilar
windings configured as a tapped winding will reduce the tough impedance to
Ed,
The most common cause is T1 connected incorrectly or having
insufficiently stripped and tinned leads, so check that first.
The HiCur message may indicate a bad or incorrectly oriented diode.
Check all the components in the wattmeter area for good soldering and
correct values T1, D1, D2,
Thanks Don I will start looking into those areas.
73,
Ed ke7hga
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Don
I was using a cable to connect my Dummy load to the tuner. So I decided to
see if maybe the connection could be bad so I connected the tuner directly
to the #1 antenna jack and that was it. Now I have a steady power ready of
3.0 volts.
Thanks again.
73,
Ed ke7hga
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Don,
I just realized that I had done the Bridge null adjustment with R6
installed. So should I remove it and start over?
73,
Ed ke7hga
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Ed,
No, R6 will not influence the bridge null. You are instructed to leave
it out until you check the voltage at U4 pin 1, during receive - it
should be zero - but you can also check that with R6 in. The zero
voltage in receive is the important one to the rest of the K2. If you
do detect
Okay Don thanks again. I did not indicate any voltage during receive. I
think I'm going to wait until I get some sort of watt meter before I
continue. But I'm off to work so that will have to wait until next month.
73,
Ed ke7hga
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Ed,
Do I recall that you have the Elecraft DL1? If so, you have the perfect
item for calibrating the power - in fact, better than most wattmeters.
Just measure the DC voltage at the diode and calculate the power - set
the forward voltage pot so the K2 indicates that same power, and job done.
Thanks Don,
I will give that a try. Should I use the RF probe that I made or just use
the DMM probes?
73,
Ed ke7hga
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Ed,
With the Elecraft DL1, just use the DMM probes.
If you do not have the DL1, connect the RF Probe across the dummy load
(use a Tee adapter if you do not have direct access to the dummy load
terminals) - but keep the power to 5 watts or less to keep from zapping
the diode in the RF probe.
Ed,
I would also recommend doing the power calibration on 40 meters - it is
a good compromise. There \is some variation in the response of the
diodes with respect to frequency, and also, if you are using an
oscilloscope to measure the RF voltage, the bandwidth of the 'scope can
cause some
Don,
When I use the DMM and measure the Voltage across I am only getting 6.0
volts. When I plug that into P=V*V/R I get .72volts. I have also noticed
that when I push TUNE I sometime see a fluctuating power indication and
other times I see 2.4f 0.0r. So what should I be looking at to adjust
Ed,
Not enough information, so I am forced to make assumptions.
Are you using the RF probe to measure the RF voltage across the dummy
load? If so, 6 volts yields 0.72 watts as you stated, but if you have
the Elecraft DL1 and measure 6 volts, the power is 1.49 watts.
Adjust R1 to agree with
Sorry Don,
I was using the DMM leads and not the RF probe to read the voltage on the
DL1 measuring 6 volts.
Thanks again Don,
Ed
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The instructions tell you to insert all of the pins so the connector
will be more difficult to remove (so it will not fall off by itself). I
do not consider that a problem, if you put in only the 4 pins which have
wires attached, the force required to insert the connector (and remove
it) is
Don,
I understand now, thanks.
Ed
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Home:
David,
Just follow the instructions in order and all will be well. You must
flush cut the relay leads after soldering, and that will not be easy if
you mount the capacitors first.
When it comes to the capacitors that fit above the relays, yes, you will
trim the leads before soldering as
Peter,
I forget what the E000 error really means, but those kind of errors come
from the option firmware.
If you have a 'scope with a 10x probe, you can check for oscillation at
the resonator pins (or U1 pins 13 and 14).
Check your cable connections and your soldering for potential problems,
Dan,
That is quite normal.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 1/9/2011 2:58 PM, Dan Grizzard wrote:
Hello all,
I have completed the assembly of my kat2 and am at the testing phase. The
question is: I hear relay clicking when going thru the display settings for
L0-L8, C0-C8, N1 N2, but NOT for
A suggestion from QST I have used with success is to photograph the
parts with a digital camera on it's highest resolution setting and
enlarge them on the computer.
Just be sure not to get too close or your lens may not be able to
focus. If you have a macro setting, that can help too. Don't worry
Dan,
The trimmer pots are OK, use the 150k value.
The capacitors are a different matter, there are two that must fit
between the processor socket and the header to the L/C board. The .001
uF capacitors seem to have become fatter over the years due to
manufacturing changes. Check to see if
Dan,
Not to worry, those options are independent of each other. Do them in
whichever order suits your fancy.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/30/2010 8:28 PM, Dan Grizzard wrote:
I have my K2 up and running nicely now for several months and now want to
build
and install my ssb and automatic tuner
Don,
thank you - everything looks fine. The tuner seems to work.
73! de Werner OE9FWV
Don Wilhelm schrieb am 25 Nov 2010 um 19:59:
Werner,
You have obtained a better than normal adjustment - normally 008 and
above is considered OK. I believe there is a statement to that effect
Werner,
You have obtained a better than normal adjustment - normally 008 and
above is considered OK. I believe there is a statement to that effect
somewhere in the manual.
I would guess that the 2.4 volts is OK. That may change when you finish
the power calibration. Connect R6 (47 ohms
In case anyone in the future has the same question, here is a follow-up for the
archive:
According to Gary at Elecraft error code 202 in the KAT2 submenu is a normal
result code. So all is well.
73,
Paul - N8XMS
__
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Paul,
To the best of my knowledge, E202 would be something that the KAT100
might display, but not the KAT2. Perhaps someone got the firmware
stickers wrong.
I think you should send a note to supp...@elecraft.com.
73,
Don W3FPR
Paul Huff wrote:
My recently installed KAT2 indicates an error
Please note that I also receive this error code on my KAT2 (202).
I have successfully gone through all of the testing steps to ensure that
each inductive and capacitive component is available and can be switched
into and out of the circuit. It is my impression, however, that the tuner
unit
George,
The problem was the thickness of the capacitors. The normal .001 uF
capacitors from the manufacturer got thicker at some point and the new
capacitors were too thick to physically fit on the Control Board between
the U1 socket and the J4 header.
The last KAT2 that I built had 2 extra
I just got through with my KAT2 and had the same issue. Before actually
getting on the phone with Elecraft, tho I temporarily fitted the socket and
header on the board and trial fitted each .001 cap one-by-one to see if any
of them would be thin enough to fit. I did find 4 that just baaarely fit
At 02:55 PM 11/09/09, you wrote:
Not sure what if anything am
missing by not having an autotuner installed in the K2. Any advice? 73,
Curt KB5JO
Curt,
I have the KAT2 in each of my K2's. I usually have them in line.
However, the main reason I have them is because they provide a port
for a
Hi Tom,
You've probably done all of this, but just to run over some of it.
Have you tried putting a dead short to ground on the + pin (3) of U4?
Check the output, it should follow.
Best to confirm this with R6 out of the circuit.
The old LM234 op amps were a bi-polar technology and they would
Tom,
The voltage at U4 pin 3 should be between 3 and 4 volts with 5 watts of
power flowing through the wattmeter section of the KAT2 *and* with the
FWD potentiometer (R1) fully clockwise.
U4 is configured as a unity gain op amp, and the voltage at the output
(pin 1)should be equal to the
As per Gary's suggestion, I removed and rewound T1. I also reflowed all the
joints in the SWR bridge and on U4. With R6 out, I still measure 0.0 V and
with it in I'm still under 3 v. With it in, I read the same 2.4V as before.
While I can't confirm the actual output power exactly, my MFJ tuner
Tom,
With R6 out, and DC voltage on U4 pin 3, but 0 volts on U4 pin 1, you
certainly can suspect that U4 is toast. Unless you have a solder bridge
between U4 pins 2 and 3 *and* no connection between pins 1 and 2 - that
would be 2 failures, and we normally expect only a single failure, so a
Tom,
Yes, you can use the RF probe. It *should* be OK up to a max of 20
watts measuring across a 50 ohm dummy load. The 1N34A diode is rated at
45 volts peak reverse voltage, so if you exceed 30 volts RMS (the RF
Probe reads in RMS volts), you are nearing the limit.
The accuracy of your
Thanks Don - My dummy load showed a 1:1 SWR on 40m with my last radio, but I
have not used an analyzer to look at it. I suspect I'll be close enough
(or at least I hope it is!) I think you are supposed to do the cal at 5
watts so no worries exceeding the power on the probe.
73 Tom
On Fri, Jul
Check the actual power with an external wattmeter - set the power
control to 5 watts and transmit, then tell us if the actual power is
near 5 watts or near the maximum power (12 watts or over).
It is possible that U4 is faulty. Pin 7 is not used - there are 2 op
amps in the LM358 package, so
Phil,
If the SWR after a TUNE is not low enough for your tastes, just try
doing it again, it often finds a better match. There is also the ALT
setting which uses a more refined algorithm, but takes longer.
It may also be that the load is outside the range of the KAT2 on some
bands - while
I was actually referring to the SWR calibration step near the end of
Power Calibration in the build document, which is against the 50 ohm
dummy load.
However, it's really of no concern now, as I re-calibrated today
against a different dummy load using a known accurate SWR meter and
got
Phil,
Yes, it is a tight fit with those many pins, but it will go on, and it
will come off too. Make certain all the pins are started before
applying pressure and apply pressure from both ends of the board.
To remove it, 'wiggle' the ends of the boards alternately so it is
removed straight.
Yes, I have the same experience in my latest KAT2 as well.
Johnny Siu VR2XMC
--- 2009年1月23日 星期五，Phillip Heller phel...@me.com 寫道﹕
寄件人: Phillip Heller phel...@me.com
主題: [Elecraft] KAT2 J8 tolerance?
收件人: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
日期: 2009 1 23 星期五 下午 2:07
Just finished the KAT2 for K2 #6662.
Allan,
Do you actually have power flowing through the KAT2? Power is necessary
to generate voltage at the diodes D1 and D2 cathodes.
If you can temporarily connect an external wattmeter between the KAT2
and the dummy load, see if power is getting through.
Once you determine that there is power
Arthur,
I believe you are on the right track in suspecting the firmware. I
would simply obtain a replacement chip from Elecraft and change it -
that is the only way to be certain unless you have access to a digital
'scope that can record the latching pulses for the latching relays. It
is
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Also, be certain that your RF Probe is a type that provides RMS
readings. Some (those with the diode connected in series with the meter
probe) will indicate peak voltage. At 5 watts, 15.8 volts is the
Surely any simple diode based design is peak reading, whether the
Steve,
Set the menu ATU parameter to CAL P when adjusting R1 for the power
reading. CAL S is the setting used to align the SWR (use a dummy load
which will provide a known SWR such as a 25 ohm or 100 ohm load which
give a 2.0 SWR).
Also, be certain that your RF Probe is a type that
Chris,
Unless you are really careful with your DMM leads and have zeroed your
DMM, *any* reading of .001 volts (or even up to .003) can be considered
zero under normal conditions because it is likely noise being coupled
onto the DMM leads from sources unknown.
So, yes, that is close enough
Don:
Thanks again. Good news. And thanks for the hint I do have the k60xv to
install so this is a big help. I am kind of going by guess and by golly on
what order I install things. I have started with the KAT2 and had planned
to move to the SSB2, but I may do the 160m accessory first.
Chris,
You did not say, but I assume you must have the KAT2 set for CALP mode.
The 0.0r indication shows that there is zero reflected power, which is
correct if you are operating into a good 50 ohm dummy load..
Switch to CALS and you should see an SWR indication of 1.0 to 1.
Simply use the
Hi
Your numbers look normal to me. You may be able to improve the calibration
using a 100 and 25 ohm load. This is how I do the calibration.
First get it into the ball park with the manual calibration method
Then alternate with the 100 and 25 ohm load and adjust C55 to get the same
reverse
ub5_073_oleg wrote:
I'm going to use my K2 with KAT2 internal ATU to operate a
doublet from 80m to 10m including WARC bands without a
balun. Among others, Dave's W8FGU home page inspired me to
try this.
I hope this is not a problem, especially when battery-fed
during portable operation, as
Hi Oleg,
Well, I wish I could take credit for implementing this configuration, but it
was at the urging of Ron, AC7AC and Don, W3FPR who stated that if the
doublet was fairly well balanced, that connecting it directly to the KAT2
should work well and eliminate any losses due to the balun. There
Hello Geoff,
I have a quick question, as I have been using an MFJ tuner to a balanced
feedline on a doublet, and have not built a balun for the K2/KAT2 yet.
Is there a bypass mode for the KAT2 such that I can use an external
tuner? ATU AUTO, of course, causes the KAT2 to go thru a tune
Thanks to all who replied! 10 minutes after emailing, I found the answer in the manual! A bit
fuzzy with the flu here - maybe I should get some rest before I toast something in my K2!!!
geoff - W1OH
Ingo Meyer (DK3RED) wrote:
Hello Geoff,
I have a quick question, as I have been using an
In a recent message, geoff allsup [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote ...
Is there a bypass mode for the KAT2 such that I can use an external
tuner? ATU AUTO, of course, causes the KAT2 to go thru a tune cycle
when pressing the TUNE button on the K2.
Yes, Geoff, you will have met that while building
John,
Yes, the manual is confusing - bottom line is that there should be one
set of standoffs and one set of washers between the two boards - it
matters not which end of the standoff the washers are installed.
To make things easiest, put one set of lockwashers (the first set
installed)
Matt Palmer wrote:
KAT2 is built, however i cant get the 10pin connector to sit on p4 of
the control board, i dont want to force it, (right now i'm pushing
enough to flex the circuit board) is it supposed to sit flush or nott?
I found I had to force this connector on and that it wouldn't
Matt,
It does sit flush when fully seated. You may have one of two problems.
The first thing to check is your soldering of the individual sockets to
the wires. If you allowed solder to wick up into the socket area, you
have plugged the hole for the pin and it will never fit fully on - it
It's a long time since I built my KAT2 but I seem to recall having a
similar issue myself. I don't think it matters that much. To put my
mind at rest I made a 100 ohms load capable of taking a few watts for
a short period and checked that I got a 2:1 reading when transmitting
into that, and 1:1
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