Lee I had exactly the same problem at FD this year. Before I illuminate the
problem a little background. We were running 2A with additional GOTA and VHF
stations. Last year the very noisy old 6KW generator puked a piston so it
was time to retire it. We wanted a new generator that could be carried
* On 2012 25 Jun 14:43 -0500, Fred Townsend wrote:
Conclusion: A little acoustical noise from the generator is a good thing.
Heh! I was actually proposing the idea of an EU2000 or another quiet
generator before next year's outing. Our current model is plenty loud
and we've used batteries
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
And if one uses silver based solder?
Nope I don't and won't until I need to resupply; which will be quite a while
from now.
Rick wa6nhc
Tiny iPhone keypad, sorry for typos
On Jun 24, 2012, at 4:21 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:
Does
Sounds like you need to get an extended gas cap and tank for your EU2000 --
I have a 6-gallon boat tank hooked up to mine and it will run at full power
output for well over 24 hours. With that setup you would fill it with gas
at the start of the contest and just turn it off when you were done.
Every one should have one of these or another brand in their toolbox:
http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-Receptacle-Improper-Indicator/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=pd_cp_hi_0
Aside from monitoring that AC is present it is a check that all the wiring and
extensions were wired correctly.
73,
Bob
K2TK ex
As far as I know Teflon is a good insulator, capable of high
temperatures and pressures. If you say teflon wire, you give it the
false interpretation of being a conductor., like the guy that said
solder was a poor conductor, really?
I did volt drop tests , I have professional crimp sets and
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Adrian
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 2:41 PM
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
As far as I know Teflon is a good insulator, capable of high temperatures
and pressures. If you say teflon wire, you give
Apparently, based on the input here, I'm doing it all wrong by crimp and
solder. But since I started that, I've not had a failure (back when Molex
was king). Most times the actual connection is secured from motion (not
vibration) while the tails are allowed to move, if needed. Yes, I use the
Hook a DMM up to the power pole connectors on the rig and do the
load/no-load test to double chack the K3 numbers. Check the load/no-
load voltage at the power supply as well.
On 6/24/2012 12:06 AM, Lee Buller wrote:
Well, the PS is a switcher...Astron ss-30.
The voltage on the rig shows
I have had similar problems which ended up being poor connections from the
power supply, where crimped connections, like on the power poles are not
making good contact. Now I solder all DC connections from power supply, if
possible. Also, these poor connections lower the power/amps making it
Recently, I built a new power cable...a shorter cable with automotive spade
fuses. The Radio Shack Spade Fuse Holders are defective. Would not seat the
fuse properly. Thus, the connection malfunctioned. I will be replacing those
soon.
Lee - K0WA
From:
Glad you found it Lee!
Many problems similar to this are caused by a bad crimp job on the
Anderson connectors. I would encourage everyone to get the more
expensive crimp tools with the right dies for the various amperage
connectors used.
Soldering is fine too but not needed if the cable is
Active 3605, V4 Passive 3606
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of W0MU Mike Fatchett
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 12:35 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
Glad you found
I am not a fan of Powerpole connectors, but use them for compatibility to
other ham gear. I think they're better than Molex (as an example) but they
are not mechanically secure enough (no locking tab) without adding an
external piece (I tape the crap out of the attached connectors).
For high
Absolutely. I bought a power cable from West Mountain and one of the leads (the
red one) just fell out of the crimp connector. So much for trusting the
professional.
I do all of my crimps now and do not solder any. I use the best crimp tool.
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 24, 2012, at 11:34 AM, W0MU
A properly done crimp is better electrically than solder. For one thing, solder
is not a very good conductor. A proper crimp is actually a weld joining the
wire to the terminal.
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 24, 2012, at 1:13 PM, Rick Bates happymooseph...@gmail.com wrote:
I am not a fan of
Does anyone have actual measurements to indicate that one is *significantly*
better than the other?
Solder may not be as good a conductor as copper, but we're talking about a
fraction of a millimeter of solder covering the entire mating surface of the
cable and connector through which the current
What does the maritime industry use? Anyone work at Boeing who can tell
me why they (I think) crimp instead of solder? I thought I remembered
that it's because crimps are stronger over the long-term under
vibration. I could be making it all up.
I'm just curious if there's a reason or if people
You've hit on why the auto industry uses crimp also (probably because of cost
as much as anything too). When a wire is soldered, a bit of the solder tins up
the wire strands and vibration or flexing can quickly cause the wire to break
and negate the reason we use stranded wire in the first
Crimps are good if they are properly done with proper sized terminals
and proper crimping tools for that type and size of terminal - there is
no one size fits all crimping tool, and I believe there lies the
problem with amateurs using crimped terminals - buying the proper
crimping tool for
I agree about the inexpensive crimping tools...possibly not about prohibitively
expensive. A small array of adequate crimping tools can cost several hundred
dollars which I don't think is too much when you consider the money spent on
just one high end transceiver. I think those flat plate
And if one uses silver based solder?
Nope I don't and won't until I need to resupply; which will be quite a while
from now.
Rick wa6nhc
Tiny iPhone keypad, sorry for typos
On Jun 24, 2012, at 4:21 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:
Does anyone have actual measurements to indicate
I have been told, sometimes by reliable sources, that proper crimping
actually pressure welds the contact to the copper wire. Soldering on
the other hand heats the copper to around 750F and it then cools fairly
fast which hardens it. Then, under vibration, it fatigues and breaks.
I've heard
Is the power supply voltage dropping too low(below the threshold)?
John N1JM
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-just-goes-off-tp7558040p7558041.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
Loose connection in the supply line will do that. It only takes a momentary
open to shut the K3 down until the POWER button is reset.
Do you have a fuse in the supply line? Fuses often fail that way. Even
running within their spec, they get warm in use. A defective fuse may open
circuit from the
Any chance that the adjustable current limit (if you have that) on your
power supply is set a bit too low?
73, Dale WA8SRA
On 6/23/2012 10:16 PM, Lee Buller wrote:
This has not happened to me before
Running some FD here on CW for about an hour in an AC room
PA 35C FP 31C
The rig just
Well, the PS is a switcher...Astron ss-30.
The voltage on the rig shows about 12.8 on Xmit with about 18.75 amps Nothing
is hot. Wires. Connectors. Rig. PS. I am a little perturbed at the voltage
drop on the ps. I would thing it would not drop that far, but I am not sure
how
accurate
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