Ebay just ended 17 of my auctions because in my listing language i
state that I accept cash. This has become a big no-no on Ebay, as I've
just found out! To make sure I'm legal, I've changed all my ads, in the
case of ones with bids, this has meant removing the bids, ending the
listing, then
On 28 Feb 2006 at 4:01, G3YIQ wrote:
I've recently completed K2 5336 but only today connected a properly
resonant antenna on 40m. The results surprised me. With the pre-amp on
the receiver suffers from serious overload and intermodulation and
40m - a problem that does not occur with the
Looking for a K2/100 but will consider other variations on the K2 theme.
Reply off list to:
keith.darwin AT goodrich DOT com
kd1e AT adelphia DOT net
73!
- Keith KD1E -
- K1 12-something-something -
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Keith,
It all depends -- any builder, beginner or not can do a fine job of building
a K2 - it is designed so that that will happen. I usually say that there
are 2 requirements for properly building a K2 (or any other Elecraft kit) -
first the builder must be able to do a good job of soldering
Hi
I would say that depends. If a beginner follows the directions and installs
all of the parts correctly the radio has the potential to perform the same
as a radio built by a pro. The difference is the little tricks you learn
after building several in the alignment. A beginner can get the
Darwin, Keith wrote:
Does a K2's performance vary depending on how well it was built? Is
there a difference in performance between one built by a pro, one built
by a beginner who has no problems and one built by a beginner who has
lots of problems and does rework to correct them?
My feeling
However, since the biggest problem that beginners seem to have is
poor soldering, sometimes a beginner's rig may have poor joints
that don't cause problems immediately.
With that in mind, what are the most common soldering problems? Could we
head off errors by discussing them here or beefing
The technical answer is that 'Reliability' is 'Quality' over 'Time'.
R=Q/T, so Quality directly affects Reliability.
Reliability is affected by soldering. Cold soldering (not enough heat or
unclean surfaces) or too much heat. Too much heat can damage components
internally.
One of the most
Hi
The first problem in soldering is the iron itself. Although a K2 can be
built with a simple soldering iron the problem with most of them is they get
too hot to make up for the lack of capacity. These simple irons have
elements that must reach a reasonable temperature and hold that
I think for people new to building and soldering the Elecraft article
on the website is definitely a good one on getting started. Reading
over that carefully is a good avenue to start. Still want to practice
some before you start a K1 or K2? Get a mini module kit and start
there.. that will
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Brown
As far as technique this takes some experience. Building one or two of
the mini kits is a good way to start.
-
What a great idea. I should have thought of that. Time
Hello all!
Well my new firmware arrived and I put it in this morning.
After a quick alignment, it works great. I RTVed the two pots and C9 on
the tuner board and now it's trail ready. My old K1 (#31) works better
than ever! Maybe a four-band board next? While aligning the KAT1, I
played around
Hello:
Does the thermal pad called for when you place Q6 (page 67) come in the
miscellaneous bag? If not, what material can be used to make one?
Thank you very much
Manuel
LU5OM
# 5310
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You
Hi
The thermal pads are usually in the same bag as the serial number tag
Don Brown
- Original Message -
From: Manuel Wilches [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 11:42 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] THERMAL PADS
Hello:
Does the thermal pad
Craig NZ0R asked:
...what are the most common soldering problems? Could we head off errors by
discussing them here or beefing up the material on the Elecraft Web site on
this topic?
-
Based on what I've seen I'd say the most common soldering error is not
soldering. Missing
Don:
I owe you two now! I had the little envelope with the serial number in a
drawer to ensure I wouldn´t loose it and there were my thermal pads.
Thank you very much. I will move on
73
Manuel
LU5OM
- Original Message -
From: Don Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net;
On 2/28/06, Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Brown
As far as technique this takes some experience. Building one or two of
the mini kits is a good way to start.
-
What a great idea. I should have thought of that. Time
Hi Ed and all,
Someone can correct me if necessary, but did the RTV have a vinegar smell
when you used it? Apparently there is a type of silicone that is electrical
friendly that doesn't have the acetic acid smell, while the regular stuff
can corrode electronic devces. Some types of hot melt
Hi
We use silicone rubber to seal the electrical connections in the computer
control systems that my company manufactures. These controllers are used on
sewage treatment plants that have hydrogen sulfide and or chlorine gases
present at times. We include a tube of GE silicone II to seal all of
Hi all
My K2 s/n 5361 is coming together nicely, up to now I've encountered no
problems whatsoever.
I just installed the receiver filter Xtals X7 through X11 and now I've arrived
at the point where these Xtals have to be grounded (page 53, last step).
The manual states that a special grounding
Hi
Yes it is important to ground on both sides. Here is how I do it. First make
sure the crystals are down all the way on the board. Press on the top and
heat the crystals leads to make sure there is no space between the crystal
and the board. Turn the RF board bottom side up. Drop a clipped
Glenn,
Tilt the board at about a 45 degree angle so gravity will help solder flow,
and more importantly, so you can see what you are doing. Use a large flat
area of your soldering tip on the side of the crystals to provide a better
heat path and heat until the crystal case itself melts the
I prefer to pre-tin the crystal cans before installing the crystals. That
way I can concentrate on doing one thing at a time. Like Don, I use about an
800F iron with a flat tip. Once there's a thin area of solder on the can
where I'll want to put the ground wire, it's much easier and faster to
Hi Paul,
Paul Webb wrote:
In case you haven’t noticed the New 30/80m module for the KX1 is
listed on
Elecrafts order page, My credit card as already been used to order
one!
Just got to wait till March 15th before it ships :-(
That's because we're still doing field testing of the unit,
Hi Wayne and All,
Thanks ever so much for the KXB3080, mine is ordered.
Is the AAA battery back for KX1 likely to proceed, gosh the KX1 is a
marvelous rig.
Cheers
Glen, VK1FB
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You must be a
Hi Glen,
We haven't had a chance to work on an AAA battery pack. I think it's
doable; just a small matter of finding sockets that fit.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
On Feb 28, 2006, at 2:23 PM, Glen Torr wrote:
Is the AAA battery back for KX1 likely to proceed, gosh the KX1 is a
marvelous rig.
Cheers
Good deal on the 30/80 module availability. Now that that's done, what are
the prospects for a 17 or 15 meter module for the KX1, either standalone or
as part of the 30 meter module? Either of these bands would be useful for
portable operation.
73
... Craig AC0DS
Hi Glenn,
I was at the same point 2 days ago. It was really not a big deal to
solder this crystals. I made a couple of pictures that you can find here :
http://martinrath.info/wp-gallery2.php?g2_view=core.ShowItemg2_itemId=562
Hi Glenn. Here is the approach I used and it worked fine for me. I held each
xtal in one of those extra hands devices that has several alligator clips on
it. Then I put the ground wire in the other alligator clip and positioned it
so the wire is on the side of the xtal then solder. I did it
Craig asked:
... what are the prospects for a 17 or 15 meter module for the KX1
Not very likely at all, which is unfortunate. 15m is my favorite band.
The clocking rate of the KX1's AD9834 DDS chip is 50 MHz (the maximum rated for
the chip). Typically, the highest usable output frequency
On Feb 28, 2006, at 12:31 PM, Darwin, Keith wrote:
What a great idea. I should have thought of that. Time to place an
order for a mini kit! That will help me answer questions such as
do I
really want to try to build a K2/100 or not.
While the economies of automated manufacturing have
I turned the board on edge and inserted the ground leads through the
board from the back side. I then clamped the end with a pair of
locking jeweler's tweezers and just let the tweezers hang down the
side of the board. This made it easy to solder the lead. I then
trimmed the lead and used a
On Tue, 2006-02-28 at 20:53 -0500, Bill Coleman wrote:
The mini-kits are a good start choice,
although they aren't part of the final unit.
They aren't part of the final unit, but they are useful during
construction and operation of the final unit. I built the N-gen and the
XG1 before starting
Hello all, I am to the point of the first voltage tests on my KPA100 and may
have a problem.
D13 - (90-150), mine is (165.4)
U4 pin 8 should be (-5 - -25) mine is (-28.9)
TP1 is at (0) as per spec.
J3 + lead should be (0) mine is (-38mv)
Are these acceptable before i move on??
Thanks for any
I was reading Jonathan Gottlieb's adventure wiring up an Heil Handi
Mic HM-IC and the 10 watts power out he saw when pressing the PTT.
I've been having some trouble checking in to the local 6m net
(complaints of distortion) when using my MD2 with my K2 and XV50. I
had switched to using a Heil
Last night I sent out a message about my PLL reference oscillator range
test showing the range to be a bit too small; I was starting to track
down the low-audio on new-to-me s/n 3641.
Don W3FPR made several helpful suggestions off-list, none of which
panned out (including checking T7). I played
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