Kieth,
A dipole cut for 40 meters will provide a high feedpoint impedance on 20 -
and the L network used in the Elecraft tuners do not do high impedances very
well.
Of course, all that does depend on your feedline length as well as the
flattop length - the feedline will act as an impedance
I intend to join the IARU HF contest in the QRP category (i.e. 5 watts output).
I have got a RG58 going to my inverted V antenna. The coax is about 45
meters in length (roughly 135 feet).
How much power should I request from my K2 to get 5 watts output from the
antenna?
73!
de TA2RX
Craig,
Thanks for the info. I checked out the Elecraft baluns you
mention and will order one up. This sounds like a reasonable
size setup for the times when I can get up a center pole to
support the antenna. Is there a preferred height for the apex
or do I just go as high as I can?
I do
With some trepidation I finally plugged #1467 in for the Part 1
Alignment and Test. Happily I can report all her tests were FB. So
the somewhat strange resistance readings I had were in fact just fine.
On to Part 2...
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Vin,
At 06:10 06-07-06 -0400, you wrote:
[Aligning a KX1]
So I took a metallic screwdriver and
electrical taped the entire shaft except for the tip. Despite the
insulation, the metal in influencing the alignment, of course, so I am
trying to align slightly, pull away and see what happens. If
OK
I managed to whittle a plastic tuning wand to the correct shape in order to
adjust the 2 tuning capacitors for 20M and the 1 for 40M.
The situation I mentioned about touching the board and having the signal
come way, way up is only happening when I transmit my K1-4 into the DL1 in
the shack.
Thanks for the info. I checked out the Elecraft baluns you
mention and will order one up. This sounds like a reasonable
size setup for the times when I can get up a center pole to
support the antenna. Is there a preferred height for the apex
or do I just go as high as I can?
I do have
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Kieth,
A dipole cut for 40 meters will provide a high feedpoint impedance on 20 -
and the L network used in the Elecraft tuners do not do high impedances very
well.
I find the T1 does very well with a very high impedance. I end feed
1/2 wave wire connected right to the
On Jul 6, 2006, at 1:37 AM, Bekir Kemal Ataman wrote:
I intend to join the IARU HF contest in the QRP category (i.e. 5
watts output).
I have got a RG58 going to my inverted V antenna. The coax is about 45
meters in length (roughly 135 feet).
How much power should I request from my K2 to
Vin,
Congratulations on completing your KX1 your fun is just beginning. Your
audio will naturally be higher on 40M, at least mine is. Low audio output is
a common subject on this net for the KX1. I suspect your unit is fine.
Sensitive earphones are a necessity with the KX1, check your
I have a full stack of XVs and just migrated to a K2 for IF. Each of
the XVs has a crystal oven. I notice in the stock config for K2, the
LO power jumper at JP9 is 1-2. (All other jumpers are set as
recommended for K2 IF with 0dBm drive and split paths.) Following the
schematic it seems
Bekir:
The technical answer to your question is as follows. The loss of your
coax depends on the SWR and frequency. 45 meters of CQ125 (a high
quality version of RG-58) at 14 MHz with an SWR of 2:1 has an
idealized loss of 2.7 dB. If you request 9.5 Watts on your K2, you
would get close to 5
Raj,
The full set of oscillator and oven power jumper options is on page 74 of
the transverter manual. If you are using the oven and want the best
stability, I would believe you would want the oscillator and oven on all the
time (even when the K2 is off), and for that, the jumper is placed on 4
Cal,
First check the voltage on the collectors of Q2 and Q3 during transmit - you
should find close to 8 volts.
It sounds to me like you are not getting an adequate audio signal into the
balanced modulator (U4 on the KSB2 board).
Without some tool to observe the audio signal, that may be a
Don,
Right now my feedline length is 0. I have not built the antenna
yet. I work about 20 mins from HRO and hope to swing over
there at lunch. I have seen ladder line there before.
It sounds like the 22 feet per side is a common length that
works for people. I will start with that. It
You should request 5w, as the rules call for 5w from the transmitter, not
the antenna.
Good luck. Hope to hear you and work you.
73, Bob N6WG/qrp
- Original Message -
From: Bekir Kemal Ataman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 1:37 AM
Subject:
Keith, KB3ILS wrote:
It sounds like the 22 feet per side is a common length that
works for people. I will start with that. It also sounds like I
should test different feedline lengths as well to get the best
setup.
--
Another approach many use to get
Kieth,
This is a portable field antenna for me, and I have made the feedline from a
pair of twisted #22 teflon insulated wires. Some years back, someone on
QRP-L did some tests on various feedlines, and this turned out to have good
loss characteristics, and it is flexible and lightweight which
That's FB Raj, it's exactly what JP9 is provided to do (See the left column
on page 19 of the Transverter Owner's Manual.)
It's also described in Appendix C, Jumper and DIP switch settings. If you
have an older manual, you can get the new manual from the Elecraft web site.
Ron AC7AC
I find the T1 does very well with a very high impedance. I end feed
1/2 wave wire connected right to the T1 with a counterpoise and it
matches right up! I ran a test and the T1 can match a 4700 ohm resistor.
So it's not bad with high resistance.
73 Karl
Rick,
Like everything else It all depends...
In your particular case, it depends on how the elements are oriented - and
that includes the counterpoise. It also depends on the proximity of ground
and other objects. Is the counterpoise in the air, or is it laying on the
ground?
That is the
Raj, N2RD wrote:
Thanks to all who have responded. I have to read the manual more thoroughly
before asking the net!
I think I will go with JP9 4-5 to power the ovens all the time.
BTW, I really like the integration between the K2 and XV transverters. I
use DX4WIN logging software and
Hi folks,
I have resolved the signals getting loud when I touch the board mystery
with help, but there is still something amiss. Upon further testing, the
receiver appears to be profoundly deaf. It does hear some signals on 40, and
even some on 20, but not nearly as well as it should. However, I
One more little tidbit...
I see about 34.7 mA drain with no LED's on, and about 37 or so with the LED
(Display) on. Slightly higher than the manual (32mA approx with LED's on).
Vin Cortina KR2F
K1-4 s/n:1977
KX1 s/n:1476
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Vin,
My audio pot exhibits the same effect as yours, most of the gain happens in
the last 30 degrees of control motion. I do not get a pop at the end.
If your signals are effected by the RF Gain control I would start searching
for the problem at the front end with L1 and L2, also checking that
Some additional data.
Voltages at U4, U5 and U6 check out OK. However, the base voltages at Q7
and Q9 are out of spec.
Base at Q7 should be about .7V, but is about .37V and base at Q9 should be
about .3V but is about .15V.
I am continuing my troubleshooting, but welcome any and all advice.
Do you have the KXAT1 antenna tuner installed?
If not, is the required jumper in place across pins 1 and 3 of J7 (page 41,
right column, last step of the manual). That's the three-pin connector
*closest* to the antenna jack. If so is it making contact with the pins?
Without that jumper, the
Vin,
The voltage at the base of Q7 should be at or very near zero during receive.
The 0.7 volts is what is expected during transmit.
Try grounding the base of Q7 and see if the receiver comes more alive. If
it does, you must chase down the source of the voltage on the base - first
check pin 7
help
how do i receive the msgs on the relector from fellow k2 owners
tks ve7jh
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hi i just got a new k2 to build sno4930 oh boy let the fun start my 3rd k2
chris g0wfh
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Wow! I received seven responses to my query. All very informative.
Bottomline: I need to use output power at the transmitter not at the antenna.
This reflector (and all the people who make it up) is magnificient. Thank
you all so much.
73!
de TA2RX
--
Bekir
I have a K1 which I aquired assembled. It works fine and I updated it and
installed some options and the latest firmware. My problem is that it has no
identity. It came with no serial number and my efforts to obtain one from the
person I aquired it from fell on deaf ears. Does anyone have a
Hi Ken,
It's not K1 # 1889.
Glad to do my part.
73 Greg
Tennessee QSO Party - September 10
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/tqp/rules/tqp06_rules.html
-Original Message-
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 indentity
I have a K1 which I aquired assembled. It works fine
original serial #.--
Would someone be so kind as to take some measurements of the KAT100-1 Antenna
Tuner:
The horizontal distance between the center of the Antenna 1 SO239 connector
(J5) and the center of the Antenna 2 SO239 connector (J6).
The horizontal distance, parallel to the back panel, from the center of
Ken,
I don't know how complete the records at Elecraft are now with all the
selling and buying of transceivers, but if you know who the original
purchaser was and the approximate date it was purchased, perhaps the kind
folks at Elecraft sales can help you. If you do discover the serial number,
Would anyone know the manufacturer and model number of the relays used in the
KAT100-1?
I would like to find the maximum contact voltage rating and contact spacing.
Darrell VA7TO K2#5093
--
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada
KLT1C12DC12 made by Hasco
Michael
N2ZDB
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Thanks for all the quick replies.
The data is at http://www.hascorelays.com/electro_klt_series.asp.
The dielectric strength between open contacts is specified at 750VAC
(50/60Hz). Guessing that the dielectric is air and air has a breakdown
voltage of about 3KV/mm that equates to a contact
Ken,
You might want to go here - you might get lucky:
http://www.zerobeat.net/qrp/k2data.html
It's an Elecraft Owner's Database maintained by Thom LaCosta.
Maybe the previous owner/builder posted the serial number there.
73 de Larry W2LJ
--
Larry W2LJ
QRP - When you care to send the very
Hi everyone,
Maybe I just need to get a good nights rest, but in the instructions for XG1
assembly, it says to install C6 with the shorter flat side toward the C6
label. But the silkscreen shape is opposite to that. Which do I believe?
Thanks in advance.
Vin Cortina KR2F
K1-4 s/n:1977
KX1
Vin,
The narrow end of the blue bodied trimmer on my XG1 is near the label for
C6.
In general, follow the instructions rather than the diagrams - I believe
this trimmer was changed sometime in the life of the XG1, and the older
white bodied trimmer may have best been placed the other way around.
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