It's like the word 'specialist' over here. Every tradesman's vehicle it
seems to me, claims that it's owner is a 'specialist'. John Smith,
Drainage Specialist for example- maybe he's specialising because he's
incapable of doing anything else ! :-)
73 Stephen G4SJP
On 29/05/2009 04:10, David
The most economical and most effective lightning protection is to simply
disconnect *ALL* cables (preferably outside the shack) and disconnect *ALL*
equipment power cords from the wall when lightning is in the vicinity. I
also have a whole house surge suppressor on my power service and use quick
Gentlemen,
How accurate is the built-in watt meter indicator in the K3???
I'm asking because when I've used a supposed;y accurate Bird 43 while
measuring the K3's various
outputs on the various HF bands there seems to be a slight discrepitancy
between what the K3 is
showing and what's
On Wed, 27 May 2009 21:19:20 -0400
Jerome S xyzzy@gmail.com wrote:
Hello all just loving the new K3, All is well except one thing. I
don't seem to have any way to mute the built in speaker. When I plug
in phones either in the front or rear the speaker does not mute. I
have set
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Jim:
You might be interested in my K3 output power comparison using lab grade
power measurement equipment.
http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/k3_power_setting_accuracy.htm
Jack K8ZOA
JIM DAVIS wrote:
Gentlemen,
How accurate is the built-in watt meter indicator in the K3???
I'm asking
Hello,
Stormy wx on the East Coast all week. We had around 3/4 of an inch during
the rain event over night and expecting storms this afternoon. Since it is
the XYL's birthday this weekend and she is at work now I am going to get out
onto the Appalachian Trail with in an hour. I have to pack
Jim, you said supposedly accurate. A Bird wattmeter is accurate only if
it's been properly calibrated and handled carefully - especially the
slugs. Bumps and bangs can easily ruin the calibration (That's why all
Birds used in critical applications carry calibration stickers showing when
it was
OK, I know some of you will chuckle at my question, so be gentle.
Please tell an old timer Ham (33 yrs) what the terms SOURCE and SINK
mean.
Thanks es 73,
Tom, N5GE
K3 #806, K3 #1055
XV144, XV432
W1 and other small kits.
http://www.n5ge.com
Ron,
And to add, it's not important to most hams because a few watts isn't even
noticed on the S meter. I run mine at 95 watts.
Phil
Philip LaMarche
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
www.instantgourmetspices.com
www.w9dvm.com
800-395-7795 pin 02
727-944-3226
FAX 727-937-8834
NASFT 30210
K3
K2 Group,
Would someone advise whether my Astron RS-20M power supply will handle a
K2/100 with some basic SSB/DSP accessories?
Thanks,
Stu, K2QDE
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Help:
Source = the device outputs current
Sinks = the device pulls the current to ground.
Generally these terms are used with digital logic. To oversimplify, if
the logic gate is in the high state, it has a positive voltage. If a
load, such as a resistor or relay is connected to the logic gate
Jack Smith wrote:
Source = the device outputs current
Sinks = the device pulls the current to ground.
In practical terms, you can connect a 12v dc relay to a source terminal of the
KRC2 and
ground the other side of it.
To use a sink terminal, connect +12v dc to one terminal of the relay and
Tom;
The answers given are very accurate. Now let me give you one that will
help you remember. If you go to the kitchen sink and turn on the
faucet, water will come out of the SOURCE. It then runs into the basin
and drains down the SINK.
Two engineering degrees, 30 years of engineering
Vic K2VCO wrote:
Jack Smith wrote:
Source = the device outputs current
Sinks = the device pulls the current to ground.
In practical terms, you can connect a 12v dc relay to a source terminal of
the KRC2 and
ground the other side of it.
To use a sink terminal, connect +12v dc to one
Hi All,
Over the years I've seen Bird Wattmeters for sale at dozens
of hamfests, as well as over the internet. Typically these
are very pricey, and require all sorts of accessories. I
have no doubt that this is, more or less, the standard
when it comes to wattmeters. However, my question
JIM DAVIS wrote:
On Wed, 27 May 2009 21:19:20 -0400
Jerome S xyzzy@gmail.com wrote:
Hello all just loving the new K3, All is well except one thing. I
don't seem to have any way to mute the built in speaker. When I plug
in phones either in the front or rear the speaker does not
K2 Group,
Would someone advise whether my Astron RS-20M power supply will handle a
K2/100 with some basic SSB/DSP accessories?
Thanks,
Stu, K2QDE
Runs mine just fine with room to spare in the supply capacity.
Since you brought up the question of power
Iain MacDonnell - N6ML wrote:
Vic K2VCO wrote:
Jack Smith wrote:
Source = the device outputs current
Sinks = the device pulls the current to ground.
In practical terms, you can connect a 12v dc relay to a source
terminal of the KRC2 and ground the other side of it.
To use a sink
The Bird 43 watt meter is one of the few genuine antiques that are still
available for use by amateur radio operators. I am not sure but I would not be
surprised if the 43 comes from being designed in 1943. I know they are
advertised in my 1964 ARRL Handbook and have not changed in
Hello all just loving the new K3, All is well except one thing. I
don't seem to have any way to mute the built in speaker. When I plug
in phones either in the front or rear the speaker does not mute. I
have set the SPKR+PH to no and SPKRS to 2
This could be a problem on the DSP
Hi List
I am wondering how to correct the power output on 6 meters.
The K3 claims 120 watts and the Bird wattmeter into a 50 ohm load
shows 90 watts. Also with the Bird showing 50 watts, the K3 shows
68 watts. Any suggestions?
Bob
G'day,
| When using the amp on continuous duty modes like FSK or FM, the plates
| will run a nice red-orange color. This is perfectly normal, and not a
| sign of problems.
And apparently necessary to keep them de-gassed. The gettering material
needs the heat.
Regards,
Mike VP8NO
On Fri, 29 May 2009 11:17:51 -0500, Radio Amateur N5GE n...@n5ge.com
wrote:
OK, I know some of you will chuckle at my question, so be gentle.
Please tell an old timer Ham (33 yrs) what the terms SOURCE and SINK
mean.
Thanks es 73,
Tom, N5GE
K3 #806, K3 #1055
XV144, XV432
W1 and other small
I agree entirely Jim. Don't remember the last time I had an amp that required
EXT ALC let alone didn't warn against using it. But this manufacturer strongly
recommends it and cautions against not using it. I guess I am a believer in
follow the manufacturer's recommendation.at least while
Don,
Thank you for your advice. I never pass up a post that has your signature
because I know I will learn something. I appreciate your sharing your knowledge
with your fellow amateurs. I have been in touch with the factory...actually
they have been in touch with me. They don't miss much.
Hi List
I found the reason for lower than expected power output
on 6 meters. It was caused by a antenna relay that had considerable
loss on 6. Now have the 100 watt rated output. Should have thought
of the cause before the post. Thanks to all that replied!
Matt/W6NIA notes, off-list, that the driver in the KRC2 has protection
that makes the diode unnecessary ... but, personally, I'd still include
it anyway - it's just good practice...
~Iain / N6ML
mzil...@verizon.net wrote:
I cannot post to the group from this account right now, so feel
Ah yes, specialization: where you learn more more about less less till
you know everything about nothing.
73, Fred
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Help:
Just to let you know, I have decided at this point to stick with my
already owned, but unbuilt, XV144 - why:
I want 2M SSB as a semi-serious contest rig - XV144 has 0.8dB noise
verses 2db for K144XV
The additional power output of the XV144 will mean more use barefoot
without my PA
And the
I agree with Iain on this. The TPIC6595 drivers in the KRC2 _do_ have
diode protection built in. Still, it is an excellent idea to have
diodes across the relays, next to the relays themselves. This is how
my own relay box is designed.
And yes, we Elecraft folks do use our own products,
So, if I understand it correctly, I jumped the gun and ordered the 100
degree 4-40 x 3/16 Flat Head Phillips SS black machine screws from Fastener
Express based on info posted here, when, in fact, Wayne is saying now that
they should be 82 degree countersinks?
I'd suppose this is now the final
So, if I understand it correctly, I jumped the gun and ordered the 100
degree 4-40 x 3/16 Flat Head Phillips SS black machine screws from
Fastener
Express based on info posted here, when, in fact, Wayne is saying now that
they should be 82 degree countersinks?
Sounds like you and I ordered
-Original Message- From: Bill W4ZV (via Nabble) Sent: May 29, 2009
6:58 AM To: Len, K3LJ Subject: Re: Elecraft OT - Lightning Protection The
most economical and most effective lightning protection is to simply disconnect
*ALL* cables (preferably outside the shack) and disconnect
Radio Amateur N5GE wrote:
To make sure I have understood correctly. Am I correct in saying each
of the control wires going to the switch box should be connected to
the SOURCE and the ground connected to the SINK?
Thanks again,
Tom, N5GE
K3 #806, K3 #1055
XV144, XV432
W1 and other small
Bill, Thanks you for your reply to my question. I agree with you the the
disconnection outside the shack is a good idea. There have been a wide
variety of answers to this question and after researching this question
myself I was curious as to which most hams were doing. I have received many
Have a month old K3/100-F assembled by Elecraft for sale.
Radio is much more than I need for my use and more complex than
I desire to learn at my age (80). Only options are the 100 watt module,
a 400 Hz CW filter and an Elecraft MH2 mike. Contact me directly if
interested.
Reduced to
On Fri, 29 May 2009 19:11:04 +, Howard K2HK wrote:
perhaps this a case of suspenders and a belt.
Nothing wrong with that if you use the K3 power control to reduce
drive to the right level for your amp and operating conditions. My
Ten Tec amps (three different models) all hit rated power
Richard King K5NA located a supplier of 15-pin VGA-style Y connectors
with all 15 pins connected right near his place in TX. These are useful
in K3 installations when you want to connect several different
destination items to the ACC connector on the back of the K3 without
building a complex,
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