Hello All,
Following this thread with much interest. I need a stealth antena and
a doublet may do the job.
Could I feed my K3/100 with ATU into a BL2 right at the antenna
connector, the output of the BL2
to home made ladder line, (2 to 4 inch spacing) to a doublet approx
1/2 wavelength on the
Can anyone point to why the single coil Z match wasn't commercialised rather
than the T match? (Perhaps it's a historical thing and manufacturers just copy
each other, notwithstanding the Johnson Matchbox of course, which is no longer
produced.)
I'm in process of building one to cover 160 to
Don't forget the I.C.E #196 product. This has stopped my COR activity, and
also isolates my MFJ-1026 noise antenna. And this is with the main antenna
starting at the tuner in the shack, and the 2nd receive antenna a floor to
ceiling vertical wire right next to the operating desk.
Wayne WA9VEE
My new, May 09, sn3012, K-3 works just fine. The following is how I would
like to set up vfo A B, and so far I have been unable to do it my way.
Either it is not possible, or I am just missing something in the manual
which at age 70 is more than likely the problem.
1. Set up a 20 meter
Glen,
Yes, you can certainly do that, and it should be quite efficient.
You can bring open wire feeders or ladder line into the shack - the old
timers did that all the time. The greatest problem is making the
conductive path through the wall/window or other part of the structure.
Replacing a
Could I feed my K3/100 with ATU into a BL2 right at the antenna
connector, the output of the BL2
to home made ladder line, (2 to 4 inch spacing) to a doublet approx
1/2 wavelength on the lowest
freq? Is it OK to bring ladder line into the shack?
This might work, but I think you will be
That should be VK5BR Lloyd Butler
http://users.tpg.com.au/users/ldbutler/SingleCoilZMatch.htm
David
G3UNA
d.cut...@ntlworld.com wrote:
Can anyone point to why the single coil Z match wasn't commercialised rather
than the T match? (Perhaps it's a historical thing and manufacturers just
For years I've used a a Z-match tuner I built using very husky
components - big transmitting variables, salvaged 3 diameter silver
plated tank coil and a 9:1 gear reduction drive for the main tuning
cap. It works very well tuning a doublet fed with 450 ohm window line
-- but even with the 9:1
Does anyone know of an interface between the K3 and an Icom 2KL/PW1 amps for
auto band switching?Steve K4AHA
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Post:
Is there any reason why SCAN could not be made to operate on the
current paramters displayed in the VFOs? A lot of times I want to scan
a range without storing it in a memory location. As it is now, in
order to SCAN the current VFO settings you have to go through six
steps:
VM
dial in a memory
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Info:
Is there any way to reduce the LED brightness when LCD Brt is set to
dAY? It seems the LEDs default to an extremely bright state when the
LCD backlight is turned off.
73,
Drew
AF2Z
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Home:
I use the Microham Micro Keyer II to do this.
Bob Serwy - N9RS
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Steve Cornell
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 10:04 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3/Icom
Can anyone point to why the single coil Z match wasn't commercialised rather
than the T match? (Perhaps it's a historical thing and manufacturers just copy
each other, notwithstanding the Johnson Matchbox of course, which is no longer
produced.)
I'm in process of building one to cover 160 to
I count three coils in the single
coil Z Match. Also there is a hard to find two section
variable capacitor. One of the coild has two
taps. This is probably the reason that it has not been
used in commercial matching networks recently.
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
K5EWJ
--- On Wed,
Prior to using the SGC auto-tuner at the end of the coax I used a home
made balanced tuner.
This was simply two 30uH tapped coils ( one for each side of the ladder
line )
And then a variable cap switched in with a DPDT for either step-up or
step-down config.
As mentioned before, putting the
It appears to me that the LCDs have only one brightness, none! Only the back
light has brightness. When set to DAY the back light is off and the contrast
is just from the reflection on the back plane versus opaque for the activated
elements. I didn't know there was a Day setting until your
Cookie,
The LEDs are the ones on the Shift, Width, etc. knobs; they become
extremely bright when LCD Brt (display backlight) is set to dAY
(or off), and there is no way to adjust them because LED Brt is no
longer functional (it just beeps when you spin the vfo). Only when
LCD Brt is set at some
drewko wrote:
Is there any way to reduce the LED brightness when LCD Brt is set to
dAY? It seems the LEDs default to an extremely bright state when the
LCD backlight is turned off.
Interesting. The LED BRT setting seems to be disabled when LCD BRT
is set to dAY. Perhaps that could be fixed
Actually, I sometimes like to use the day settings at night when I
don't necessarily need to be watching at the display-- the LED
brightness is way too bright then. It would be nice to be able to turn
them down also.
Funny thing... as much power is consumed when LCD Brt is set to dAY
(backlight =
Now I see what you are talking about Drew. I never paid attention to these
settings other than LCD Brightness and Back light Brightness. I am not sure
what your reason for turning the back light off might be. If you are operating
in sun light I don't think that you can see the back light on
Is there a recommendation from you all as to which led brightness setting to
use for K1 led backlight? It will be used primarily for hotel and field
portable ops, thanks
Eric WD6DBM
Sent from my iPhone
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In case anyone is wondering, my K3 is running tickety-boo now that the
KIO3 board has been replaced (thanks to Gary Surrency for diagnosis and
the rest of Elecraft service folks who got me the replacement board tout
suite!). And, uh, the 80-meter only decrease in sensitivity was most
Does anyone know of an interface between the K3 and an Icom
2KL/PW1 amps for auto band switching?
Your question has two answers:
For the 2KL a BCD to 1 of 8 decoder can switch the necessary
voltage dividers to create the analog (stepped voltage) band
data signal needed to switch bands
Cookie, I can see the dAY display pretty well with my normal indoor
operating position lighting, but the LEDs at this setting are
irritatingly bright.
Sometimes during the day I have the rig on, just scanning a band or
listening to a SWBC station while I'm doing something else around the
shack;
You have a much more sensitive ammeter than I do Drew. I draw about an amp
with the back light on 4 where I usually keep it, but I can;t see the
difference if I change the setting to DAY. 70 ma at 13.8 V is only about 1
watt. My desk lamp has a 60 watt bulb so you would save more money to
Me either nor do I recycle but those LEDs being on when the display is off
seems rather odd.
No, I'm not a global warmist or anything... far from it.
Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message -
From: drewko drew...@verizon.net
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, July
Eric,
If you are going to be using it in lighted areas and can stand the
increased current drain, go for the brighter option. OTOH, the K1
display without the backlight is fine in lighted areas already, and the
dim backlight is good for dark places, so just take your pick based on
your
I have long been an advocate of the center fed doublet.
I have put them up in numerous state and even in Germany.
Of course I have used different tuners. Folks here in this
write about of all kinds of external tuners.
May I make a radical suggestion? Use the internal K3
antenna tuner! Now I know
I'm using a 66' doublet fed with homebrew ladder line for portable
operations in my yard. I have it flat top up in a tree about 35' up. I
made a small adapter to go from the ANT1 connector from my KAT3 to a
couple of banana sockets. I then bring the ladder line straight into
that adapter.
I
Following this thread with much interest. I need a stealth antena and
a doublet may do the job.
Could I feed my K3/100 with ATU into a BL2 right at the antenna
connector, the output of the BL2
to home made ladder line, (2 to 4 inch spacing) to a doublet approx
1/2 wavelength on the lowest
freq?
Tom (and all others who have commented),
Please pass along the length and type of your feedline when making
statements of the effectiveness and ease of tuning for your antenna.
With a resonant halfwave dipole fed with coax (or any line matched to
the antenna impedance), the feedline length is
Does the K3 knob fit on the K2? Just curious, seems like it'd be an easy
alternative to the Yaesu knobs many of you are using...
Tom W0EA
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Help:
For those who might be a little mystified by this discussion of
feedlines and antennas, I can recommend the series of articles titled
Another Look at Reflections by M. Walter Maxwell (W2DU/W8HKK)
published in QST between 1973 and 1976. The whole series is available
as a single PDF file at
My friend John K7WP is selling his K2/100. I have aligned this radio and
will vouch for it's excellent condition and performance. It includes the
following:
K2
KPA100
KSB2
K160RX
K60XV
KNB2
KDSP2
KAT100-1
At the current prices this is $1810 worth of kits. You get it all for
$1200, assembled.
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