Re: [Elecraft] Let's Try This Again -- was [K3] ... A 750 Hz, 8-Pole ... Filter?

2010-07-17 Thread David Woolley
At that sort of bandwidth you are going to be clipping a non-trivial 
amount of sideband power.  Are you sure that a brick wall filter would 
be a good idea; I would wave thought it would cause significant dispersion.

Ian White GM3SEK wrote:

 
 However, contesters are always looking for an extra edge, and a true 
 250-270Hz 8-pole filter with a steeper transition from the passband into 
 the stopband would be the next step to try.
 


-- 
David Woolley
Emails are not formal business letters, whatever businesses may want.
RFC1855 says there should be an address here, but, in a world of spam,
that is no longer good advice, as archive address hiding may not work.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on Order

2010-07-17 Thread WILLIS COOKE
Chris, I have two JetStream switching supplies that I have used for four 
years.  
I have not been able to attribute any spurious receiver responses to the supply 
in either my TS-850 or my Elecraft K3.  I have a few continuous carriers that 
seem to be spurious on 10 meters and 6 meters, but they are very weak, less 
than 
S1 and I have never lost a contact that I blame these signals.  I read a lot of 
comments about the power supply generated artifacts, but I have not seen any 
that properly documented a serious problem with any commerically offered 
supply.  One of my JetStreams does have some fan noise that I can hear when my 
air conditioner is not running and my amplifier is turned off.  I would 
categorically say that there is a lot more worry about switching supplies than 
the actual problems warrent.  I am sure that there are many who will not be 
convinced, but I have worked over 200 countries per year for the last four 
years 
while using switching supplies and I have an Astron analog supply sitting on 
the 
shelf that I don't use as well as a Pyramid analog supply that needs repair in 
the closet.  

 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ 





From: Chris Hembree w7...@yahoo.com
To: Tom W8JI w...@w8ji.com; Larry 'Rebar' Rebarchik - N6CCH 
re...@hamilton.com; n...@contesting.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Fri, July 16, 2010 9:08:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 on Order

Very good Point..
What switching supply's are you using?
Thanks
Chris






From: Tom W8JI w...@w8ji.com
To: Chris Hembree w7...@yahoo.com; Larry 'Rebar' Rebarchik - N6CCH 
re...@hamilton.com; n...@contesting.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Fri, July 16, 2010 6:35:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 on Order

 My concern for any Switching supply is the RFI noice that the radio will pick 
up
 from the power supply. Looking at the SEC 1235m, I was reading that it has a
 build in RFI filter. Plus I like the AD5X mod to slow down the fan. And the
 Alinco DM-340 MVT has a knob to change the freq. of the noise that the radio 
is
 picking up.

Any power supply that has a VFO knob built in means they either don't know how 
to get harmonics down to the proper level or don't want to spend a few bucks on 
components, so they took the cheap way out.

I have several switching supplies and can't hear any of them anywhere unless I 
run an antenna right in the room. 


      
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[Elecraft] Switching power supplies...yet another comment

2010-07-17 Thread John Ragle
 This topic goes around every few months, and I hesitated 
(unsuccessfully) to add to it this time around.

  I have several inexpensive 25-amp switching supplies from Radio 
Shack and Pyramid. I also have a couple of linear supplies that are 
built like the battleships of yore, and some gel batteries for portable 
operation.

 I have used these supplies in various combinations on a K2/100, a 
K3/100, and an ICOM 910H. I have never been able to tell the difference 
in noise level between any of these sources. My two rigs sit ~2 to 3 
feet from a computer,and I have occasionally also put a small laptop 
directly in front of the XCVRs. Same comment: no discernible noise from 
the computers...they are impressively shielded with finger-stock, etc. 
Some lines have ferrites on them because that's the way they came from 
the factory.

 I do have a few birdies up and down the bands, but these are 
apparently from external sources and disappear when I disconnect my 
antennas or switch over to my dummy loads. My antennas are fed with good 
quality coax, and I live in the boonies. The nearest above-ground 
utilities are a city block away. I imagine this is a fairly quiet location.

 When I bought my first K2 I was concerned about this question, 
hence the linear supplies. My current take on this question about 
switching power supplies is that it is/was a needless worry. I suppose 
that if one is using open-wire feeders the situation might be different?

John Ragle -- W1ZI
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[Elecraft] K3: Draws high current on XMIT on 30 meters only

2010-07-17 Thread Ted Roycraft
My K3 is having a problem on 30 meters but is fine on all other bands.  
While transmitting into a 50 ohm dummy load and verifying that the SWR 
is better than 1.1:1,  if I set the output power level above 80 watts on 
30 meters, I get a HI CUR message.  When that happens, the K3 
indicates that it is drawing slightly more than 24 amps and the voltage 
as measured by the K3 is 12.6 volts.  This current level is quite a bit 
higher on 30 meters running 80 watts than on any other band running 100 
watts.  Any ideas why the behavior should be so different on 30 meters?  
By the way, I don't have the ATU.  Also, I don't think this just 
happened recently.  I bought the K3 a year ago and it might have been 
this way from day 1 but I'm retired and it takes a while to get around 
to things :-)..

Thanks and 73,
Ted, W2ZK
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[Elecraft] OT: Trade Dual for Single Paddle

2010-07-17 Thread John Huffman
Off Topic

I'd like to trade one of my dual lever paddles - Kent Twin Paddle Key or 
K8RA P-2 Iambic for a comparable single lever paddle key.

Please respond off list to jhohnc at gmail dot com

73 de K1ESE
John
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[Elecraft] OT: Trade Dual for Single Paddle

2010-07-17 Thread John Huffman
Off Topic

I'd like to trade one of my dual lever paddles - Kent Twin Paddle Key or 
K8RA P-2 Iambic for a comparable single lever paddle key.

Please respond off list to hjohnc at gmail dot com

73 de K1ESE
John
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Re: [Elecraft] Let's Try This Again -- was [K3] ... A 750 Hz, 8-Pole ... Filter?

2010-07-17 Thread Ian White GM3SEK
David Woolley wrote:

Ian White GM3SEK wrote:


 However, contesters are always looking for an extra edge, and a true
 250-270Hz 8-pole filter with a steeper transition from the passband into
 the stopband would be the next step to try.

At that sort of bandwidth you are going to be clipping a non-trivial
amount of sideband power.  Are you sure that a brick wall filter would
be a good idea; I would wave thought it would cause significant dispersion.


That theory only applies to the copy of weak RTTY signals against a 
background of noise. But when the main problem is QRM, the best 
*available* copy is obtained by reducing the bandwidth and accepting a 
small reduction in accuracy.

The recommendation for a 250-270Hz filter is based on many years of 
practical experience in heavy contest QRM, starting with different 
combinations of cascaded filters in the FT-1000MP, and then moving on to 
different combinations of roofing filters and DSP in the K3. The 
measurable performance parameters have been certificates and a modest 
amount of silverware.

With off-the-shelf roofing filters in the K3, the quality of RTTY copy 
in extreme QRM was inferior to the FT-1000. The 400Hz filter let in too 
much QRM which was routinely triggering the hardware AGC, while the 
200Hz 5-pole required manual fine tuning for each new caller which made 
it unusable for serious contesting. With the modified 270Hz 5-pole, the 
performance of the two radios is now about the same... so the next 
logical step forward would be a 250-270Hz 8-pole, a gaussian to 6dB 
design with improved roll-off outside the passband.



-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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[Elecraft] K3 - NO SSB RX

2010-07-17 Thread Bruce Meier
Now that this problem has occurred twice it is time to ask if I am alone.

One of my K3s lost all audio on SSB RX.  It still worked fine on CW.  TX was
fine on both modes.  However, if I increased the Width beyond 3.0kc SSB RX
audio came back.  When the Width was decreased below 3.0kc the audio was
again gone.  The problem was not band specific - it occurred on all bands.
This happened last week during the IARU and again about 10 minutes ago.
Last week it occurred while the K3 was powered up and being used.   This
week, when I it was powered on, it came up in this condition.

The fix appears to be a RESET.  (Push NORM - power up - EE INIT) Then I run
the RESTORE CONFIGURATION from the K3 utility program.The K3 is then
back to normal. 

My concern here is two fold.  1. This should not be happening. 2. This issue
could be the beginning of a larger issue that won't be fixable with a RESET.

Has anyone else had this issue?

K3 # 1193
Firmware: 3.97
Filters: 2.7kc, 400hz, 250hz


73,
Bruce - N1LN


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 KAT2 Issues/Questions

2010-07-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Paul,

Good to hear you were successful.
Yes, many amateur grade wattmeters are not accurate at low power.  
Remember that those with analog meters have an accuracy spec based on 
percentage of full scale - that is even true of the much revered Bird 
meters which are speced at 5% of full scale - immediately after 
calibration (many amateur grade meters are speced at 20%)  On a 100 watt 
scale, 5% is 5 watts *anywhere* on the scale!  That fact makes measuring 
a 2 watt signal level problematic.  The meter can read anywhere between 
2 watts (plus or minus) 5 watts and still be correct - the student 
should do the math. :-)

73,
Don W3FPR

Paul Locker wrote:
 Don,

 I followed your steps outlined and it looks good.  The issue could be me 
 trusting my watt meter.  I think it's time I invested in a new watt meter.
 Tomorrow I hope to spend some time testing it on the air.

 Thank you again for your help.

 Paul
 k4pml
   

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

2010-07-17 Thread John Fritze
Ken,

Make sure you have your probe plugged into the correct jack.  Sounds
like what first happened to me, until I turned the rig around (back to
me) I forgot there were 2 jacks.  Probably not the problem, but hey,
you never know.

John
K2QY
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - NO SSB RX

2010-07-17 Thread Terry Posey
I think you are not alone, Bruce.  I have experienced a similar SSB RX audio
loss on several occasions. And there seems to be no recovery other than a
RESTORE CONFIGURATION.  

In my case, I keep my K3 M1 memory loaded with VFO A 50.110 USB and VFO B
50.125 USB, and M2 memory loaded with VFO A 50.100 CW ALT and VFO B 50.110.5
CW ALT. My loss of SSB RX audio seems to occur if I am working CW with the
K3, then press the M1 memory and hurry-press the A/B button before the M1
memory change sequence is completed (the K3's frequency and mode changes
from memory is not instantaneous).  After the K3 settles down, the USB RX
audio is completely dead, but the CW, DATA, AM, FM modes audio still work.
I have also cycled through the bands, and the USB RX audio is dead on each
band.  The USB TX audio seems to work; however, I have not tested for that
extensively.  I have found no way to restore the USB RX audio other than to
RESTORE CONFIGURATION.  This problem would be most inconvenient if it occurs
during a contest or a DXpedition.  Do not leave home without your K3
Utility.

Something for Wayne to ponder over the weekend.

73, Terry K4RX

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Meier
Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2010 8:04 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - NO SSB RX


Now that this problem has occurred twice it is time to ask if I am alone.

One of my K3s lost all audio on SSB RX.  It still worked fine on CW.  TX was
fine on both modes.  However, if I increased the Width beyond 3.0kc SSB RX
audio came back.  When the Width was decreased below 3.0kc the audio was
again gone.  The problem was not band specific - it occurred on all bands.
This happened last week during the IARU and again about 10 minutes ago.
Last week it occurred while the K3 was powered up and being used.   This
week, when I it was powered on, it came up in this condition.

The fix appears to be a RESET.  (Push NORM - power up - EE INIT) Then I run
the RESTORE CONFIGURATION from the K3 utility program.The K3 is then
back to normal. 

My concern here is two fold.  1. This should not be happening. 2. This issue
could be the beginning of a larger issue that won't be fixable with a RESET.

Has anyone else had this issue?

K3 # 1193
Firmware: 3.97
Filters: 2.7kc, 400hz, 250hz


73,
Bruce - N1LN


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Re: [Elecraft] Switching power supplies...yet another comment

2010-07-17 Thread lstavenhagen

My experience is the opposite - I haven't yet used a switching PSU that
_didn't_ cause some kind of nasty noise in my rigs, usually like computer
generated noise. A broadband hash with spikes of hum at various places is
usually what I get. 

I simply threw batteries at the problem - now I exclusively use my 80AH
wheelchair battery for my K2 and K3 with no more troubles. The PSU's either
went in the trash or were sold, and the money was used to buy my battery

73,
LS
W5QD
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-on-Order-tp5299697p5306020.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Switching power supplies...yet another comment

2010-07-17 Thread Douglas Furton
I'll add my two cents about switching power supplies here as well.  I bought an 
HPS-1a PS from Gamma Research.  This is a tiny switching power supply not too 
much larger than a deck of cards, yet it can deliver about 100W voice, and 
maybe 80W slow CW with my K2.  It is marketed as a hybrid PS because it uses 
a great bit of capacitance to smooth out the duty cycle, all fed by a small, 
switching PS.  

In a nutshell, this little switching PS works great.  I use it in my home shack 
sometimes, and when I set up in my backyard (not quite a DXpedition, but 
fun...) and have not noticed any noise.  On the down side, this particular unit 
was a bit expensive.

Anyway, I am a new ham, and originally was convinced by what I read that one 
should avoid switching PSs at all cost.  Perhaps switching PSs are better 
engineered now than in the past.  When my main supply -- all iron, size and 
heat -- gives up the ghost, I'm replacing it with a modern, efficient switcher.

Cheers,

Doug
K8EXB


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Re: [Elecraft] Switching power supplies...yet another comment

2010-07-17 Thread Don Cunningham
In all fairness to the switching supplies, if you are forced to have indoor 
antennas or close to the ground stealth antennas, you might not want to 
consider them.  Of course they will generate noise in those cases.  I have 
decent outdoor antennas and still have to be careful with computer switching 
supplies and their placement in the shack.  I probably have a lifetime 
supply of heavy, Astron linear supplies, but the size and weight of the 
Samlex and other supplies is sure getting tempting!!  That RS-50A is getting 
AWFULLY heavy to move, hi.
73,
Don, WB5HAK 

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Re: [Elecraft] Switching power supplies...yet another comment

2010-07-17 Thread Vic K2VCO
I think a lot has to do with the antenna, and how it's connected to the rig. If 
you are 
using a balanced antenna, properly fed with coax and a balun or two-wire line 
with a 
well-balanced tuner, it's unlikely that you will have a problem. If you have a 
wire stuck 
in the coax connector of your rig, then you almost certainly will. Other setups 
will be in 
between.

A dipole fed with coax with no balun will certainly be vulnerable to picking up 
noise on 
the outside of the shield. Noise currents flowing on the shield will then be 
connected 
directly to the antenna at the feedpoint! If the coax runs near power wiring 
which is 
connected to a switching supply (or computer, etc.) then you are asking for 
trouble.

Having said that, I'm sure some switchers are worse than others. But it's very 
hard to 
make one at consumer prices that doesn't allow some noise to escape.

On 7/17/2010 7:13 AM, lstavenhagen wrote:

 My experience is the opposite - I haven't yet used a switching PSU that
 _didn't_ cause some kind of nasty noise in my rigs, usually like computer
 generated noise. A broadband hash with spikes of hum at various places is
 usually what I get.

 I simply threw batteries at the problem - now I exclusively use my 80AH
 wheelchair battery for my K2 and K3 with no more troubles. The PSU's either
 went in the trash or were sold, and the money was used to buy my battery

 73,
 LS
 W5QD


-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] Switching power supplies...yet another comment

2010-07-17 Thread Jim Brown
On Sat, 17 Jul 2010 08:32:24 -0700, Vic K2VCO wrote:

I think a lot has to do with the antenna, and how it's connected to the rig. 
If you are 
using a balanced antenna, properly fed with coax and a balun or two-wire line 
with a 
well-balanced tuner, it's unlikely that you will have a problem. If you have a 
wire stuck 
in the coax connector of your rig, then you almost certainly will. Other 
setups will be in 
between.

A dipole fed with coax with no balun will certainly be vulnerable to picking 
up noise on 
the outside of the shield. Noise currents flowing on the shield will then be 
connected 
directly to the antenna at the feedpoint! If the coax runs near power wiring 
which is 
connected to a switching supply (or computer, etc.) then you are asking for 
trouble.

Exactly right. What matters is not proximity of the power supply to the rig, 
but the power 
supply to the antennas!  

I have some switchers in my shack and in my house. Most of my antennas are high 
and away from 
those noise sources, but two antennas (160M and 2M) are quite close to the 
shack. I have 
ferrite common mode chokes on ALL of those switchers, and I had to get VERY 
serious with the 
two cheap switchers in my shack that float-charge my batteries to kill the 
noise on 160M and 
2M. They're now quiet, but they didn't come that way. :) 

73, Jim K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - NO SSB RX

2010-07-17 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


Sounds like something is wiping out (or changing) the SSB filter
Offset.  Before restoring the configuration, check the offset
(CONFIG: FLx FRQ) and see if it is correct.  You can also try
resetting just the filter offset (from the radio) and see if
that restores SSB Receive.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

On 7/17/2010 9:15 AM, Terry Posey wrote:
 I think you are not alone, Bruce.  I have experienced a similar SSB RX audio
 loss on several occasions. And there seems to be no recovery other than a
 RESTORE CONFIGURATION.

 In my case, I keep my K3 M1 memory loaded with VFO A 50.110 USB and VFO B
 50.125 USB, and M2 memory loaded with VFO A 50.100 CW ALT and VFO B 50.110.5
 CW ALT. My loss of SSB RX audio seems to occur if I am working CW with the
 K3, then press the M1 memory and hurry-press the A/B button before the M1
 memory change sequence is completed (the K3's frequency and mode changes
 from memory is not instantaneous).  After the K3 settles down, the USB RX
 audio is completely dead, but the CW, DATA, AM, FM modes audio still work.
 I have also cycled through the bands, and the USB RX audio is dead on each
 band.  The USB TX audio seems to work; however, I have not tested for that
 extensively.  I have found no way to restore the USB RX audio other than to
 RESTORE CONFIGURATION.  This problem would be most inconvenient if it occurs
 during a contest or a DXpedition.  Do not leave home without your K3
 Utility.

 Something for Wayne to ponder over the weekend.

 73, Terry K4RX

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Meier
 Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2010 8:04 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - NO SSB RX


 Now that this problem has occurred twice it is time to ask if I am alone.

 One of my K3s lost all audio on SSB RX.  It still worked fine on CW.  TX was
 fine on both modes.  However, if I increased the Width beyond 3.0kc SSB RX
 audio came back.  When the Width was decreased below 3.0kc the audio was
 again gone.  The problem was not band specific - it occurred on all bands.
 This happened last week during the IARU and again about 10 minutes ago.
 Last week it occurred while the K3 was powered up and being used.   This
 week, when I it was powered on, it came up in this condition.

 The fix appears to be a RESET.  (Push NORM - power up - EE INIT) Then I run
 the RESTORE CONFIGURATION from the K3 utility program.The K3 is then
 back to normal.

 My concern here is two fold.  1. This should not be happening. 2. This issue
 could be the beginning of a larger issue that won't be fixable with a RESET.

 Has anyone else had this issue?

 K3 # 1193
 Firmware: 3.97
 Filters: 2.7kc, 400hz, 250hz


 73,
 Bruce - N1LN


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[Elecraft] K2 - KPA100 works but Tpa won't budge from 0 c. ??

2010-07-17 Thread NQ3RP

I've checked out the KPA100, have it operating on the hi Amp power supply and
it works great except for these two items:

 1.  In Fan Menu, going to LoHi setting - the fan doesn't run.  If I go
to the high it kicks in and runs.
  When I first turned on the K2 (back when I was using the normal
12v supply it ran but after 
  awhile it quit.
 2.  In the TPA for the temperature will not change from 0 c. turning
the encoder.

Can't for the life of me figure out what might be causing this.  Is it some
other parameter I have to change before doing these.  Anyone experience
this?


John
NQ3RP
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-KPA100-works-but-Tpa-won-t-budge-from-0-c-tp5306343p5306343.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Repair

2010-07-17 Thread Jack Brabham
  Well, here's a follow up.

A week after the assumed return posting date, I emailed, asking for a 
status update and got a phone call from Elecraft the next day. 
Nothing had happened during that week, apparently the return shipping 
just fell thru a crack and didn't occur (and yes, they are swamped with 
work).

So we got that moving and I received the radio on the 15th.

Still exhibits the same problem it had when I sent it in.

So I'm now 3 and a half months into my K3 ownership and still can't get 
on SSB.  Considering that I bought the radio specifically for SSB 
contesting and sold all my other radios to pay for the K3,  this is not 
making me a happy camper.

I haven't the slightest doubt that what I was told by Elecraft was 100% 
accurate, that the low output problem was confirmed on the bench and 
that an EEINIT had fixed it, and it stayed fixed while at Elecraft. 
   However, as someone who spent 30 years or so troubleshooting complex 
systems, the fact that several previous EEINITs had failed to fix the 
problem would have been a big red flag that I had not yet got to the 
root cause of the issue.

So I emailed Rene and let him know the problem was back.  I expect I'll 
hear from him early next week and we will figure out the next step.

BTW here's a quick summary of the problem in hopes someone on the list 
may have an idea to try.

(1) Low average output on SSB, typically 10 to 15 watts (AVG) according 
to my W2 and confirmed in that it only drives my SB-200 to about 150 
watts when driven by voice.   This occurs with what I take to be normal 
metering indications from the K3, 5 to 7 bars of ALC, a few bars of 
compression and the PO meter hanging around 50 watts with peaks up 
around 100W.

(2) Weird power fluctations in PSK31.   With higher audio frequencies, 
when PSK1 idle tones are transmitted, the power out will start at about 
50 to 60 watts and rise to a nominal 75 watts or so over 15 to 20 
seconds.If I preform this test repeatedly with a few seconds off 
time between tests, the starting PO number gets progressively higher 
each time.  After 6 to 8 test cycles the power will only vary a few watts.

However if I power cycle the K3, changing nothing else, the PO reverts 
to starting at 50 watts or so drifting up to normal over several 
seconds, repeating the whole sequence.

At lower audio frequencies, below around 800 hz, the overall PO tapers 
off, and is down 50% at 300 hz.  TX EQ is flat, and all config 
parameters are still  as received from Elecraft repair except RS-232 
baud rate and the mic selection.

To me, at this point,  the two most likely possibilities are something 
mechanically/physically intermittent in the K3 (although it has never 
worked normally for me), or something in the local station environment.

I have tried 3 mics, a Heil PR22 and both elements of a Heil Pro-set, 
FP, RP, and Line-IN, thru a pro-audio chain or direct connected with no 
change.   Recordings on the internal DVR sound fine on Monitor but 
exhibit the same  problem.  The power supply is solid at 13.8V.  High 
quality station ground system.  Everything else works fine, superb 
reception, normal CW operation, PSK works if I keep the audio carrier 
above 1000 hz.

The DSP board was swapped out before sending the radio in.

I would be just totally tickled to discover the problem is something 
stupid I'm doing or not doing, or a function of some other problem in my 
station setup, but I don't know what the heck it would be.

Any ideas?

73 Jack KZ5A











On 7/2/2010 10:50 AM, Jack Brabham wrote:
I agree that a posted repair queue length figure would probably
 eliminate a lot of angst by setting reasonable expectations.   Probably
 eliminate a lot of phone calls to Elecraft  as well.   A weekly
 prognostication would be more than adequate for my purposes.

 Another thing that could use a little work is the level of communication.

 Last Friday I got a call from Elecraft stating that the symptoms (low
 SSB PO) had been confirmed, and that an EEINIT had resolved the problem.
My K3 was going to soak over the weekend and shipout Monday (last)
 if was still good.   I was glad to hear it was coming back but a bit
 curious as to why the first half a dozen or so times we did an EEINIT
 had not resolved the problem.

 Now its a week later, I don't know if my K3 is back in the shop (as I
 suspect) or if it is has been shipped and I need to hang around to
 receive it...  I'm sure I could call and get an update but, being lazy,
I would rather just get a short simple email periodically while the
 RSA is open or anytime there is a status update.

 73

 Jack KZ5A

 K3 #4165



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Re: [Elecraft] Switching power supplies...yet another comment

2010-07-17 Thread John Ragle
On 7/17/2010 11:10 AM, Douglas Furton wrote: (JLR edited)
 ...Perhaps switching PSs are better engineered now than in the past...
=

I can tell the assembled multitude that this assessment is correct. 
Before retirement, I did a lot of weak-signal work in the lab (related 
to NMR imaging), and in the earliest days of this work, ca. 1970 or so, 
I used Apple-2-Plus machines for data collection. Some of you may recall 
that these small microcomputers were powered by open-board switching 
power supplies, and the cabinets contained no shielding whatsoever. They 
were exceedingly potent sources of RFI and had to be kept isolated 
from the spectrometer circuitry. At some point, I considered isolating 
them by taking them out in a field and burying them. Fortunately, 
technology advances.

My comments about proximity were to the point that modern devices 
(computers or switching power supplies) are very well shielded, as are 
modern XCVRs. The Radio Shack 25 amp switchers that I have contain good 
shielding AND massive ferrites on the inside of the cabinet directly on 
the DC terminals. The AC line cord is similarly ferrite-trapped, 
directly inside the metal cabinet. The computers (a la FCC 
type-acceptance regulations) have RF-tight enclosures with close-fitting 
fingerstock around the openable places and below-cutoff screening on the 
fan ports. My K2 and K3 are exceedingly well shielded...surely an open 
100-watt source a couple of feet from a computer would make itself known.

I think it is really a question of physician, heal thyself -- I 
believe that some truly have the problems they report, and that they 
have taken the correct steps to ameliorate them. But...my overall 
opinion is that switching power supplies have taken a bad rap. My linear 
supplies are gathering dust, keeping their shelving from floating up 
into the air. Maybe the way to convince oneself one way or the other is 
to buy an inexpensive Astron or Radio Shack supply and try it. 
Also...with care...batteries make very good filters.

John Ragle -- W1ZI





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Repair

2010-07-17 Thread Wayne Burdick
Jack,

I was unaware of your difficulties. I'll discuss your repair with Rene  
first thing Monday and get back to you by phone.

We carefully test repaired or modified rigs before sending them back,  
so your results are a bit baffling. I'm sure we'll figure it out.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


Jack Brabham wrote:

 Well, here's a follow up
 Still exhibits the same problem it had when I sent it in.

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Re: [Elecraft] 250 Hz and 400 Hz Filter Measurements

2010-07-17 Thread John, KI6Wx
Beware of the conclusions of the so-called K3 Filter Study.  I don't know
who wrote it since there is no name on it, but the 250 Hz filter does not
fall apart at -25 dB.  The results shown are exactly what you would expect
for a well-designed receiver with no signal at the input.  The author of
this study doesn't state the conditions of the K3 such as band, preamp
status and antenna connection, but I will assume no antenna connected with
the preamp on.

If you look at the first plot on page 3 labeled Study of Inrad 400 and 250
Hz Filters, you will see a broad shoulder at about 30 dB down that the
author is concerned about.  This shoulder drops off at 100 Hz and 1100 Hz
due to the DSP filtering.  So let's look at what is causing this.

There is no signal into the K3, so all of the noise is internally generated.
At 600 Hz, the noise is coming from the preamp and is then filtered by the
250 Hz and 400 Hz roofing filters.  The shoulder is caused by the internally
generated noise after the roofing filter.  The noise from the preamp is
dominate, so that is sets the noise figure.  However, if we made it even
more dominate, so that the shoulder was lower, we would reduce the dynamic
range of the K3.  Receiver design is a tradeoff so that you create both
minimum noise and maximum dynamic range.

If the author had coupled a noise diode to the input of this K3, he would
have found that the shoulder would disappear because he now had a noise
signal into the K3 much stronger than the preamp.  My advice would be to
disregard this report because the measurements were not made in such a way
as to accurately determine the response of the K3 filters.

-John
 KI6WX

 
 Both you and Ed raise good points. No intent there -- I agree that
 the so-called 250 Hz filter is slightly more useful than the 400
 Hz. My real objective is to get Inrad to clean up their act!  BUT
 -- take a look at the data in this link. Lots of food for thought.
 There's something different about the K3 Sub-RX, and the Roofing
 filters seem to fall apart below about -25dB. Makes a guy wonder
 what's going on!
 
 http://audiosystemsgroup.com/K3FilterStudy-250HzRoof.pdf
 
 73, Jim K9YC
 
 
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[Elecraft] Kit Building estimated Times: KX1, W2, P3

2010-07-17 Thread Phil Hystad
I have two kits right now and a third (the P3) on the way soon (I hope).  I got 
the KX1 to replace my Norcal 40A QRP rig and I just got (yesterday) the W2 to 
add to my growing collection of SWR meters.

My plan is to do the P3 first.  So, I am waiting until the P3 arrives.  But, I 
am thinking that maybe I can whip out the W2 pretty quickly.  Therefore, can 
anyone give me an estimate of what I should expect on the W2 build time?

I got estimates here for the K3/100 when I got that and my build time came 
right near the average of those values reported by various peoples (8 1/2 
hours).

So, I know that the P3 build time is probably not known by anyone other then 
beta kit builders.  How about the average build times for the W2-kit (one 
coupler) and the KX1 kit (toroids done by the Toroid Guy, already here).

73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] 250 Hz and 400 Hz Filter Measurements

2010-07-17 Thread Doug Turnbull

I love this reflector and the discussion which takes place on it.   Thank
you all for this discourse.  Good radio, good users and good company and we
are all learning.   
  73 Doug EI2CN

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John, KI6Wx
Sent: 17 July 2010 18:49
To: 'Elecraft List'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 250 Hz and 400 Hz Filter Measurements

Beware of the conclusions of the so-called K3 Filter Study.  I don't know
who wrote it since there is no name on it, but the 250 Hz filter does not
fall apart at -25 dB.  The results shown are exactly what you would expect
for a well-designed receiver with no signal at the input.  The author of
this study doesn't state the conditions of the K3 such as band, preamp
status and antenna connection, but I will assume no antenna connected with
the preamp on.

If you look at the first plot on page 3 labeled Study of Inrad 400 and 250
Hz Filters, you will see a broad shoulder at about 30 dB down that the
author is concerned about.  This shoulder drops off at 100 Hz and 1100 Hz
due to the DSP filtering.  So let's look at what is causing this.

There is no signal into the K3, so all of the noise is internally generated.
At 600 Hz, the noise is coming from the preamp and is then filtered by the
250 Hz and 400 Hz roofing filters.  The shoulder is caused by the internally
generated noise after the roofing filter.  The noise from the preamp is
dominate, so that is sets the noise figure.  However, if we made it even
more dominate, so that the shoulder was lower, we would reduce the dynamic
range of the K3.  Receiver design is a tradeoff so that you create both
minimum noise and maximum dynamic range.

If the author had coupled a noise diode to the input of this K3, he would
have found that the shoulder would disappear because he now had a noise
signal into the K3 much stronger than the preamp.  My advice would be to
disregard this report because the measurements were not made in such a way
as to accurately determine the response of the K3 filters.

-John
 KI6WX

 
 Both you and Ed raise good points. No intent there -- I agree that
 the so-called 250 Hz filter is slightly more useful than the 400
 Hz. My real objective is to get Inrad to clean up their act!  BUT
 -- take a look at the data in this link. Lots of food for thought.
 There's something different about the K3 Sub-RX, and the Roofing
 filters seem to fall apart below about -25dB. Makes a guy wonder
 what's going on!
 
 http://audiosystemsgroup.com/K3FilterStudy-250HzRoof.pdf
 
 73, Jim K9YC
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Kit Building estimated Times: KX1, W2, P3

2010-07-17 Thread Don Cunningham
Phil,
The W2 is a VERY easy build, and took me less than an hour and a half, and I 
work slowly to avoid mistakes, hi.   The build was done during the latter 
part of a rest break building the K3 for me and it worked fine, first 
time!!  I too am ANXIOUSLY awaiting my P3
73,
Don, WB5HAK 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Repair

2010-07-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jack,

I see Wayne has responded and I am certain he will help get to the 
bottom of the problem.

I do have one question about your SSB behavior - do you see the same 
drop-off in power if you set the wattmeter to read peak?
The power rating of the K3 is expressed in Peak Envelope Power, so your 
metering should match when trying to compare apples to apples.

On your PSK31 situation, are you driving the audio to the K3 high enough 
to produce 4 to 5 bars on the ALC meter, and setting your desired 
power output with the K3 power knob?
If you are trying to use the audio level to control the power output, it 
will behave much as you have described.  The K3 measures the power 
output, and decides there is not enough to match the setting of your 
power knob, so it increases the drive attempting to produce more power.
Drive the audio input so you have at least 4 ALC bars with maybe the 5th 
flickering.
The ALC meter on the K3 is not completely an indication of ALC - the 
first 4 bars act more like a VU meter to tell you the audio level.  The 
5th bar indicates the start of ALC action.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jack Brabham wrote:
   Well, here's a follow up.

 A week after the assumed return posting date, I emailed, asking for a 
 status update and got a phone call from Elecraft the next day. 
 Nothing had happened during that week, apparently the return shipping 
 just fell thru a crack and didn't occur (and yes, they are swamped with 
 work).

 So we got that moving and I received the radio on the 15th.

 Still exhibits the same problem it had when I sent it in.

 So I'm now 3 and a half months into my K3 ownership and still can't get 
 on SSB.  Considering that I bought the radio specifically for SSB 
 contesting and sold all my other radios to pay for the K3,  this is not 
 making me a happy camper.

 I haven't the slightest doubt that what I was told by Elecraft was 100% 
 accurate, that the low output problem was confirmed on the bench and 
 that an EEINIT had fixed it, and it stayed fixed while at Elecraft. 
However, as someone who spent 30 years or so troubleshooting complex 
 systems, the fact that several previous EEINITs had failed to fix the 
 problem would have been a big red flag that I had not yet got to the 
 root cause of the issue.

 So I emailed Rene and let him know the problem was back.  I expect I'll 
 hear from him early next week and we will figure out the next step.

 BTW here's a quick summary of the problem in hopes someone on the list 
 may have an idea to try.

 (1) Low average output on SSB, typically 10 to 15 watts (AVG) according 
 to my W2 and confirmed in that it only drives my SB-200 to about 150 
 watts when driven by voice.   This occurs with what I take to be normal 
 metering indications from the K3, 5 to 7 bars of ALC, a few bars of 
 compression and the PO meter hanging around 50 watts with peaks up 
 around 100W.

 (2) Weird power fluctations in PSK31.   With higher audio frequencies, 
 when PSK1 idle tones are transmitted, the power out will start at about 
 50 to 60 watts and rise to a nominal 75 watts or so over 15 to 20 
 seconds.If I preform this test repeatedly with a few seconds off 
 time between tests, the starting PO number gets progressively higher 
 each time.  After 6 to 8 test cycles the power will only vary a few watts.

 However if I power cycle the K3, changing nothing else, the PO reverts 
 to starting at 50 watts or so drifting up to normal over several 
 seconds, repeating the whole sequence.

 At lower audio frequencies, below around 800 hz, the overall PO tapers 
 off, and is down 50% at 300 hz.  TX EQ is flat, and all config 
 parameters are still  as received from Elecraft repair except RS-232 
 baud rate and the mic selection.

 To me, at this point,  the two most likely possibilities are something 
 mechanically/physically intermittent in the K3 (although it has never 
 worked normally for me), or something in the local station environment.

 I have tried 3 mics, a Heil PR22 and both elements of a Heil Pro-set, 
 FP, RP, and Line-IN, thru a pro-audio chain or direct connected with no 
 change.   Recordings on the internal DVR sound fine on Monitor but 
 exhibit the same  problem.  The power supply is solid at 13.8V.  High 
 quality station ground system.  Everything else works fine, superb 
 reception, normal CW operation, PSK works if I keep the audio carrier 
 above 1000 hz.

 The DSP board was swapped out before sending the radio in.

 I would be just totally tickled to discover the problem is something 
 stupid I'm doing or not doing, or a function of some other problem in my 
 station setup, but I don't know what the heck it would be.

 Any ideas?

 73 Jack KZ5A











 On 7/2/2010 10:50 AM, Jack Brabham wrote:
   
I agree that a posted repair queue length figure would probably
 eliminate a lot of angst by setting reasonable expectations.   Probably
 eliminate a lot of phone calls to Elecraft  as well.   A weekly
 

Re: [Elecraft] Kit Building estimated Times: KX1, W2, P3

2010-07-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Phil,

Well, after building a LOT of KX1s (I've lost count), I can complete the 
KX1, KXB3080, and KXAT1 in about 12 hours at the workbench.  But 
consider that I no longer read all the detail in the manual - I only use 
it as a guide in the order in which to place the parts (do not try to 
second guess that order).  For the first time through a KX1 build, I 
would estimate double the time it takes me, so somewhere in the range of 
20 to 25 hours should be about right.

I have not yet built a W2, so no answer on that.

73,
Don W3FPR

Phil Hystad wrote:
 I have two kits right now and a third (the P3) on the way soon (I hope).  I 
 got the KX1 to replace my Norcal 40A QRP rig and I just got (yesterday) the 
 W2 to add to my growing collection of SWR meters.

 My plan is to do the P3 first.  So, I am waiting until the P3 arrives.  But, 
 I am thinking that maybe I can whip out the W2 pretty quickly.  Therefore, 
 can anyone give me an estimate of what I should expect on the W2 build time?

 I got estimates here for the K3/100 when I got that and my build time came 
 right near the average of those values reported by various peoples (8 1/2 
 hours).

 So, I know that the P3 build time is probably not known by anyone other then 
 beta kit builders.  How about the average build times for the W2-kit (one 
 coupler) and the KX1 kit (toroids done by the Toroid Guy, already here).

 73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - KPA100 works but Tpa won't budge from 0 c. ??

2010-07-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

Were you able to set the bias on the KPA100 with the pot set to about 
1/3 rotation? (yes it is related).
The tpa value seen in the K2 CAL menu follows the temperature variation 
of the heatsink as sensed by the base to emitter junction of Q3.  
Measure the voltage for TSENSE at KPA100 U1 pin 5.  It should be 
somewhere close to 0.6 volts at normal heatsink temperatures.  If it is 
wildly different, check R5, R6 and Q3 to be certain they are properly 
placed and well soldered.

73,
Don W3FPR

NQ3RP wrote:
 I've checked out the KPA100, have it operating on the hi Amp power supply and
 it works great except for these two items:

  1.  In Fan Menu, going to LoHi setting - the fan doesn't run.  If I go
 to the high it kicks in and runs.
   When I first turned on the K2 (back when I was using the normal
 12v supply it ran but after 
   awhile it quit.
  2.  In the TPA for the temperature will not change from 0 c. turning
 the encoder.

 Can't for the life of me figure out what might be causing this.  Is it some
 other parameter I have to change before doing these.  Anyone experience
 this?


 John
 NQ3RP
   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Repair - ALC Setting

2010-07-17 Thread Jim Miller KG0KP
- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com

snip
 The ALC meter on the K3 is not completely an indication of ALC - the
 first 4 bars act more like a VU meter to tell you the audio level.  The
 5th bar indicates the start of ALC action.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

I may be reading something into part of what you say, straighten me out.

Is the ALC setting at 4-5 bars the norm for any mode other than PSK? 
Should it be 4-5 for SSB and other modes as well???

Thanks es 73, de Jim KG0KP 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Repair - ALC Setting

2010-07-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

That is the norm only for DATA modes where you would not want to 
activate the ALC.
For SSB and other speech modes, drive the ALC meter to 5 - 7 bars with 
the Compression set to zero and a normal voice.  See the manual page 
28.  Best results are when you are kicking up to 7 bars on voice peaks.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jim Miller KG0KP wrote:
 - Original Message - 
 From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com

 snip
   
 The ALC meter on the K3 is not completely an indication of ALC - the
 first 4 bars act more like a VU meter to tell you the audio level.  The
 5th bar indicates the start of ALC action.

 73,
 Don W3FPR
 

 I may be reading something into part of what you say, straighten me out.

 Is the ALC setting at 4-5 bars the norm for any mode other than PSK? 
 Should it be 4-5 for SSB and other modes as well???

 Thanks es 73, de Jim KG0KP 

   
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[Elecraft] My K3 Line Out Setting

2010-07-17 Thread Mike Scott
I played with line out settings today to determine for my soundcard-K3 setup
what an optimum line out setting might be. I think of optimum as that
setting that produces adequate speckling on a waterfall display with minimum
harmonic distortion.

My K3 serial 508 has all of the audio modifications that I am aware of. I
can remember conducting a study like this prior to modifications
unfortunately I can not find my old data. 

Bottom line I have my line out set at 3 now. This gives good copy on PSK
signals, good speckling on a waterfall and maximum signal-to-3rd-harmonic
ratio.

Spot pitch = 500, CW signal centered, 3rd harmonic well outside of roofing
filter as well as 50 Hz IF filter. The only way for the 3rd harmonic to be
seen is if it is created in the analog post digital audio stages. For PSK
copy I would be using wider filters but much wider would mask the 3rd
harmonic measurements which I wanted to be well beyond the processing pass
band. 

Using Spectrogram for signal measurement and Ham Radio Deluxe-Digital Master
780 for PSK copy I took some data below. At line out set at 3 I found
maximum base signal to 3rd harmonic ratio. I find this is pretty good at the
lower line out settings and up to 15 dB worse at significantly higher
settings. I would guess that most could live with the higher settings if the
sound card needs it. 

IF BW = 50 Hz   
Roofing Filter BW = 500 Hz  

LineReference   3rd  Delta
Out dB   Harmonic   3rd
0   -68.6   noise limited
1   -55 noise limited
2   -41.7-11371.3
3   -38.2-11172.8
4   -35.8-10771.2
5   -33.5-10167.5
10  -27.8-87.5   59.7
15  -24.5-82 57.5
20  -21.5-80.3   58.8
25  -19.4-78.5   59.1
30  -18.1-75.8   57.7
50  -13.7-72.1   58.4
100 -7.7 -67.8   60.1

Mike Scott - AE6WA
Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
NAQCC 3535
K3-100 #508 / KX1  #1311


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Repair

2010-07-17 Thread Jack Brabham
  Don,

What I'm watching to see the creep is the W2 meter's Windows app with 
the meters set to AVG and the peak hold bar ON.   I'm interpreting this 
as the peak of the fluctuating average power level  This is the 
number that rolls up around 50% during the first 20 seconds of an 
initial transmission after a power cycle.

If I change the meters to peak, the numbers change as you would 
expect, the initial peak power starts off around 70 watts and drifts 
up to around 95.

BTW normal PSK31 etc operation in DATA A seems to proceed as expected as 
long as I stay above 1000 hz or so for the audio.  Below that there is 
an increasingly noticeable reduction in PO, but otherwise functions 
normally.

I'm using my PSK31 program as an audio generator for these tests, not 
having anything better to use.  In this role  it is not adjusted the 
same way one would for actual PSK operation.  Do not try this at 
home.. ;)

I have tried, in the last hour or so, increasing the audio drive levels 
and decreasing the mic and line-in gain.   This somewhat reduced the 
power creep issue, at least in terms of the number of transmission 
cycles before it settles,  but the radio still seems to have to 
relearn this from scratch after a power cycle.

Reducing the Mic gain from 18 to 6 and increasing the output from my mic 
pre-amp to get  4-5 bars of ALC, did not seem to help the low output on 
SSB problem.

Thanks for the tip about the ALC meter, makes more sense now.

73 Jack KZ5A

On 7/17/2010 1:18 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Jack,

 I see Wayne has responded and I am certain he will help get to the 
 bottom of the problem.

 I do have one question about your SSB behavior - do you see the same 
 drop-off in power if you set the wattmeter to read peak?
 The power rating of the K3 is expressed in Peak Envelope Power, so 
 your metering should match when trying to compare apples to apples.

 On your PSK31 situation, are you driving the audio to the K3 high 
 enough to produce 4 to 5 bars on the ALC meter, and setting your 
 desired power output with the K3 power knob?
 If you are trying to use the audio level to control the power output, 
 it will behave much as you have described.  The K3 measures the power 
 output, and decides there is not enough to match the setting of your 
 power knob, so it increases the drive attempting to produce more power.
 Drive the audio input so you have at least 4 ALC bars with maybe the 
 5th flickering.
 The ALC meter on the K3 is not completely an indication of ALC - the 
 first 4 bars act more like a VU meter to tell you the audio level.  
 The 5th bar indicates the start of ALC action.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Jack Brabham wrote:
   Well, here's a follow up.

 A week after the assumed return posting date, I emailed, asking for a 
 status update and got a phone call from Elecraft the next day. 
 Nothing had happened during that week, apparently the return shipping 
 just fell thru a crack and didn't occur (and yes, they are swamped 
 with work).

 So we got that moving and I received the radio on the 15th.

 Still exhibits the same problem it had when I sent it in.

 So I'm now 3 and a half months into my K3 ownership and still can't 
 get on SSB.  Considering that I bought the radio specifically for SSB 
 contesting and sold all my other radios to pay for the K3,  this is 
 not making me a happy camper.

 I haven't the slightest doubt that what I was told by Elecraft was 
 100% accurate, that the low output problem was confirmed on the bench 
 and that an EEINIT had fixed it, and it stayed fixed while at 
 Elecraft.However, as someone who spent 30 years or so 
 troubleshooting complex systems, the fact that several previous 
 EEINITs had failed to fix the problem would have been a big red flag 
 that I had not yet got to the root cause of the issue.

 So I emailed Rene and let him know the problem was back.  I expect 
 I'll hear from him early next week and we will figure out the next step.

 BTW here's a quick summary of the problem in hopes someone on the 
 list may have an idea to try.

 (1) Low average output on SSB, typically 10 to 15 watts (AVG) 
 according to my W2 and confirmed in that it only drives my SB-200 to 
 about 150 watts when driven by voice.   This occurs with what I take 
 to be normal metering indications from the K3, 5 to 7 bars of ALC, a 
 few bars of compression and the PO meter hanging around 50 watts 
 with peaks up around 100W.

 (2) Weird power fluctations in PSK31.   With higher audio 
 frequencies, when PSK1 idle tones are transmitted, the power out will 
 start at about 50 to 60 watts and rise to a nominal 75 watts or so 
 over 15 to 20 seconds.If I preform this test repeatedly with a 
 few seconds off time between tests, the starting PO number gets 
 progressively higher each time.  After 6 to 8 test cycles the power 
 will only vary a few watts.

 However if I power cycle the K3, changing nothing else, the PO 
 reverts to starting at 50 watts or so 

Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

2010-07-17 Thread Ken Mohler
Don -

You have me on the right track.  I have a valid frequency reading at pin 6
of U11 and I can follow it back through L33 and C169 to the gate of Q24. The
waveform gets fuzzier and has lower amplitude past L33 (I do have a scope)
but is still countable at C169.  Past Q24 I don't have anything
recognizable.  I have reflowed the solder on everything around there.  D36
appears to be installed correctly. I don't have an extra J310 to swap out
Q24, but will get one if you think that's the next step.  BTW, I measured
the voltages at U11 and all are what you told me to expect except pin 8 is
around 6 volts.  Still, the BFO seems to be working, just not getting
anything as far as TP2.  Thanks for the help and please keep it coming.

73,
Ken
K0WKM

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 6:49 PM
To: Ken Mohler
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

Ken,

Did you obtain a good frequency reading when you did the PLL Reference 
Oscillator test back on page 36?  If so, check the probe again by 
putting the probe into either TP3 or TP1.  If you see a valid frequency 
displayed, your probe is OK.

The most common problem builders have are soldering problems.  Re-flow 
the soldering in the BFO  and U11 area with a hot soldering iron (750 
deg/F).  Also check carefully for solder bridges.  Unfortunately, one 
lead of both X3 and X4 are under the pad for L33, so ignore those for 
the time being (if nothing else works, Lift one end of the resistor 
securing L33 and re-flow the soldering at those leads).
Do you have near 8 volts at U11 pin 8?  Is U11 pin 1 and 2 close to 1.4 
volts?  Do you have about 6 volts at U11 pin 6?

Touch the counter probe to U11 pin 6 (careful not to short to an 
adjacent pin).  Do you have a valid frequency reading?  If you do, then 
the BFO is working, and the problem is with Q24 and its associated 
components.  Be certain you have mounted D36 (the SMT1B) part correctly, 
and the soldering of Q24, RP6, R98, and R99 is good.

If still no progress, either assemble the parts provided in your K2 kit 
for the RF Probe (schematic in Appendix E) or let us know that you have 
an oscilloscope available.

73,
Don W3FPR

Ken Mohler wrote:
 Hi Gang -

  

 I'm building my 2nd K2 and am at the point of Alignment and Test, Part II.
 All of the tests and alignment steps through the VCO alignment have been
 completed successfully.  Everything has been right in the center of the
 expected parameters.  Then I got to the BFO test.  I'm getting a reading
of
 .00.  Here's what I know so far:  D37 and D38 are the correct types
and
 oriented properly.  I have measured the resistance across the resistor
 holding L33 down (or up?) and get a reading of 1.5 ohms, indicating to me
 that L33 is intact and effectively soldered to the resistor leads.  I have
 checked the positioning of Q24 and it looks correct.  The right crystals
are
 installed at X3 and X4 and grounding the cases went smoothly, so I don't
 think I overheated them.  I have reflowed the solder on the parts around
the
 BFO area.  A symptom that may or may not mean anything: the S-Meter is
 showing S5.  It was properly adjusted back in Alignment and Testing Part
I.
 What should I do next?

   

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[Elecraft] K2: Is Inventory really a necessity?

2010-07-17 Thread stan levandowski
Hello.  My name is Stan WB2LQF and I am a new lister, having just 
received my K2 kit yesterday.

My question is, Do you folks think it is really necessary to 
detail-inventory the Elecraft  K2 product??

The packaging was impressive.  The task of a complete and detailed 
inventory looks time consuming, downright boring, and a great 
opportunity to lose/break/misplace/confuse or static-damage parts. 
Seems to me that Elecraft should be able to get it mostly correct.  My 
thinking is that all those parts may be safer just sitting in their 
little bags until it's time to open the bag.  if it takes me too long 
to report a missing part and as a result Elecraft won't replace it for 
free, I won't exactly go broke buying the missing part from them.  Seems 
like a reasonable risk to offset the investment of time + the 
aforementioned risks of inventorying.

I'm a new Elecraft customer so I'm not in a position to size them up, 
although I keep hearing they are a first class outfit and I would assume 
their quality control extends to shipment accuracy.

I'd be interested in the majority opinion from Elecraft customers who've 
faced this same decision -  to inventory or not.

Thanks!

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Re: [Elecraft] K2: Is Inventory really a necessity?

2010-07-17 Thread Gregg Lengling, W9DHI
Actually it's more than an inventoryit allows you to separate items 
into containers for easy finding.  But even more important is that you 
are able to identify all the various pieces, as it's very easy to 
confuse one choke for another, or one capacitor for another.   It's not 
inventory for inventory's sake...it's actually a pure building step in 
familiarizing yourself will all the parts.

Gregg, W9DHI


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Re: [Elecraft] K2: Is Inventory really a necessity?

2010-07-17 Thread Vic K2VCO
Really short answer: yes, although you needn't check all the resistors that are 
supplied 
on a tape.

Reason: you get to know and recognize the parts. There are some variations in 
some of the 
capacitors, etc. and some which are different but which look similar to each 
other. If you 
clarify before installing anything, you're less likely to find yourself having 
installed a 
wrong part.

The whole job will not take longer, because if you have identified and sorted 
the parts 
you will be able to grab them more quickly when you need them. Construction 
will go more 
smoothly.

You are not so much doing it to catch Elecraft's mistakes as to prevent YOU 
from making 
mistakes!

On 7/17/2010 1:06 PM, stan levandowski wrote:
 Hello.  My name is Stan WB2LQF and I am a new lister, having just
 received my K2 kit yesterday.

 My question is, Do you folks think it is really necessary to
 detail-inventory the Elecraft  K2 product??

 The packaging was impressive.  The task of a complete and detailed
 inventory looks time consuming, downright boring, and a great
 opportunity to lose/break/misplace/confuse or static-damage parts.
 Seems to me that Elecraft should be able to get it mostly correct.  My
 thinking is that all those parts may be safer just sitting in their
 little bags until it's time to open the bag.  if it takes me too long
 to report a missing part and as a result Elecraft won't replace it for
 free, I won't exactly go broke buying the missing part from them.  Seems
 like a reasonable risk to offset the investment of time + the
 aforementioned risks of inventorying.

 I'm a new Elecraft customer so I'm not in a position to size them up,
 although I keep hearing they are a first class outfit and I would assume
 their quality control extends to shipment accuracy.

 I'd be interested in the majority opinion from Elecraft customers who've
 faced this same decision -  to inventory or not.

 Thanks!


-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: Is Inventory really a necessity?

2010-07-17 Thread John
At 02:06 PM 17/07/10, you wrote:
  lose/break/misplace/confuse or static-damage parts.

These things are more apt to happen without inventory.  Just my point 
of view after building a K1 and a couple K2's. Don't rush it, because 
a few days after it's done miss the build.

Good luck Stan, most of all, have fun.

John
k7up 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 DSP Board Upgrade Info

2010-07-17 Thread Andy Wood

I have now completed all of the modifications to upgrade the DSP board to the
latest spec and can say that the improvement is worthwhile. For me, the
receive audio, especially on ssb, is a lot less fatiguing.

For those wishing to attempt this yourself, here is some more info:

- Resistors and chip capacitors are 0603 size
- C9 and C13 (100uf/6.3v) need to be the correct size to fit the pcb pads.
Panasonic part number EEEFKJ101UAR are suitable. I also found it easier to
remove the headphone socket from the pcb to facilitate removal / replacement
of these capacitors.

My K3 S/N 3017 already had some of the components changed on the DSP board.
The only components left for me to do were C1, C11, C9 and C13. My DSP board
(Revision B) had a 1 handwritten after the revision number.  My guess is
mine was a revision B1?

Andy  VK4KY 
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-DSP-Board-Upgrade-Info-tp5252898p5307405.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: Is Inventory really a necessity?

2010-07-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Stan,

I do not do a complete inventory for all the packages up front (but 
then I have spare parts available, and that makes me a it different).
I DO sort each package and place the components in an order so I can 
reach them quickly.  I use the corrugated box method advocated by 
Heathkit 'way back when' - cut a USPS Priority Mail cardboard box (the 
O-1097 size works best) in half along all the narrow edges.  The center 
serves as a tray for miscellaneous parts and the holes in the 
corrugations along the sides hold leaded components - just stick the 
leads in the holes.  I arrange the capacitors in value order with the 
lowest values toward the front.  Inductors, diodes (and resistors for 
the KX1) go on the right side =- again arranged in value order.

When building, I can quickly pluck out the correct component, check its 
value and insert it on the board.

The sorting takes a little time, but once sorted, the quick and easy 
picking of the correct component is accomplished much faster than any 
other method I have used.

I have tried muffin tins, assorted envelopes, taping components on a 
paper, and other various methods over the years, but the Heathkit style 
corrugated box has always been the one I come back to.

OK, I went a little astray in my response, but my point is - If you 
don't want to do an inventory, at least do a sort, it will save you a 
lot of time later in the process.

73,
Don W3FPR

stan levandowski wrote:
 Hello.  My name is Stan WB2LQF and I am a new lister, having just 
 received my K2 kit yesterday.

 My question is, Do you folks think it is really necessary to 
 detail-inventory the Elecraft  K2 product??

 The packaging was impressive.  The task of a complete and detailed 
 inventory looks time consuming, downright boring, and a great 
 opportunity to lose/break/misplace/confuse or static-damage parts. 
 Seems to me that Elecraft should be able to get it mostly correct.  My 
 thinking is that all those parts may be safer just sitting in their 
 little bags until it's time to open the bag.  if it takes me too long 
 to report a missing part and as a result Elecraft won't replace it for 
 free, I won't exactly go broke buying the missing part from them.  Seems 
 like a reasonable risk to offset the investment of time + the 
 aforementioned risks of inventorying.

 I'm a new Elecraft customer so I'm not in a position to size them up, 
 although I keep hearing they are a first class outfit and I would assume 
 their quality control extends to shipment accuracy.

 I'd be interested in the majority opinion from Elecraft customers who've 
 faced this same decision -  to inventory or not.

 Thanks!

   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Repair

2010-07-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jack,

Yes, the K3 has to recalculate the power drive after a power cycle or a 
band change - so let's not call that part of the process creep, it is 
just the K3 power control mechanism coming up to speed with the power 
setting that you requested using the Power Knob.  The power will start 
out a bit low and then come up to the level requested.  It will then 
stay there until a power cycle or a band change.

What power level do you have set?  That is an important piece of 
information.

Initially, ignore the power output and set the audio level correctly.  
You can (and should) use TX TEST for that adjustment.
For SSB, talk in a normal voice.
Set Compression to zero
Then adjust the mic gain until you have between 5 and 7 bars indicated 
on the K3 ALC meter display - the peaks should be at 7 bars.
Now add compression as desired.
Set your wattmeter to read the peak power (not peak-hold in the AVG 
setting).
Connect a dummy load and speak into the microphone.  After a few 
syllables (to allow the power control mechanism to stabilize), how 
closely do the wattmeter peaks come to the power you set on the power 
knob?  It should be close.

For data modes, the process is similar.
Use TX TEST to set the audio level.
Set Compression to zero (it should stay there for all data modes)
Adjust the audio into the K3 to provide 4 to 5 bars on the ALC meter - 
actual ALC does not start until after the 5th bar, so that will keep the 
level below the onset of ALC.
Set the K3 power control to the power output you want.
Transmit, and after the initial power leveling mechanism has had a bit 
of time to settle, the power should equal what you dialed in on the 
power control.

Yes, for DATA modes, the K3 is different than other transceivers out 
there - ignore the usual recommendation to set the power high and use 
the audio input level to control the power - due to the way the K3 
controls power (by sampling the actual output and adjusting drive to 
compensate), attempting to use the techniques that vary the audio level 
in order to control power will result in strange happenings.  While it 
will work, I will not guarantee the power level will be right, and you 
will have to ride the audio input level to keep it constant (don't do it 
that way).

What I have related is nothing different than the information in the K3 
manual (except for the maximum number of ALC bars in DATA mode.
If you wnat to double check the veracity of what I am saying, look in 
the archives for Lyle Johnson's reflector post of February 8, 2009.  
Lyle designed the K3 DSP (and its control of the power out), so he 
should be considered an authoritative source.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jack Brabham wrote:
  Don,

 What I'm watching to see the creep is the W2 meter's Windows app 
 with the meters set to AVG and the peak hold bar ON.   I'm 
 interpreting this as the peak of the fluctuating average power 
 level  This is the number that rolls up around 50% during the 
 first 20 seconds of an initial transmission after a power cycle.

 If I change the meters to peak, the numbers change as you would 
 expect, the initial peak power starts off around 70 watts and drifts 
 up to around 95.

 BTW normal PSK31 etc operation in DATA A seems to proceed as expected 
 as long as I stay above 1000 hz or so for the audio.  Below that there 
 is an increasingly noticeable reduction in PO, but otherwise functions 
 normally.

 I'm using my PSK31 program as an audio generator for these tests, not 
 having anything better to use.  In this role  it is not adjusted the 
 same way one would for actual PSK operation.  Do not try this at 
 home.. ;)

 I have tried, in the last hour or so, increasing the audio drive 
 levels and decreasing the mic and line-in gain.   This somewhat 
 reduced the power creep issue, at least in terms of the number of 
 transmission cycles before it settles,  but the radio still seems to 
 have to relearn this from scratch after a power cycle.

 Reducing the Mic gain from 18 to 6 and increasing the output from my 
 mic pre-amp to get  4-5 bars of ALC, did not seem to help the low 
 output on SSB problem.

 Thanks for the tip about the ALC meter, makes more sense now.

 73 Jack KZ5A

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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net announcement

2010-07-17 Thread Phil and Christina
The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (7/18/10) at 1800z on 14.314
MHz. I will be net control from western Oregon, and I will try to swing the
antenna in multiple directions to get as many of you as I can. See you then.

73,
Phil NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

2010-07-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Ken,

The fuzzy waveform on the 'scope is normal - but how much so is 
difficult for me to say whether yours is normal or abnormal.

Check the value of C169 - it should be 390 pF (marked 391).

OK, the BFO is oscillating, so look at Q24 carefully - is it oriented 
correctly?  If so, enter CAL FCTR and tap the BAND+ button while 
measuring the voltage on the drain (see the schemastic key page if you 
are not familiar with the pinout).  The voltage should go high(almost 8 
volts), and then tap BAND- and the voltage should go nearly to zero.

Other things to check - look for a solder bridge between pins 1 and 2 of 
U10;, check the SMT1B for correct orientation; re-check the orientation 
of D36, and check the soldering of R98, C168, D36, R99 and SMT1B.

If all the above is correct, try replacing Q24.  If you have a J309 
around, try that (if you have the KDSP2 kit, there are J309s in there).

73,
Don W3FPR


Ken Mohler wrote:
 Don -

 You have me on the right track.  I have a valid frequency reading at pin 6
 of U11 and I can follow it back through L33 and C169 to the gate of Q24. The
 waveform gets fuzzier and has lower amplitude past L33 (I do have a scope)
 but is still countable at C169.  Past Q24 I don't have anything
 recognizable.  I have reflowed the solder on everything around there.  D36
 appears to be installed correctly. I don't have an extra J310 to swap out
 Q24, but will get one if you think that's the next step.  BTW, I measured
 the voltages at U11 and all are what you told me to expect except pin 8 is
 around 6 volts.  Still, the BFO seems to be working, just not getting
 anything as far as TP2.  Thanks for the help and please keep it coming.

 73,
 Ken
 K0WKM

 -Original Message-
 From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
 Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 6:49 PM
 To: Ken Mohler
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

 Ken,

 Did you obtain a good frequency reading when you did the PLL Reference 
 Oscillator test back on page 36?  If so, check the probe again by 
 putting the probe into either TP3 or TP1.  If you see a valid frequency 
 displayed, your probe is OK.

 The most common problem builders have are soldering problems.  Re-flow 
 the soldering in the BFO  and U11 area with a hot soldering iron (750 
 deg/F).  Also check carefully for solder bridges.  Unfortunately, one 
 lead of both X3 and X4 are under the pad for L33, so ignore those for 
 the time being (if nothing else works, Lift one end of the resistor 
 securing L33 and re-flow the soldering at those leads).
 Do you have near 8 volts at U11 pin 8?  Is U11 pin 1 and 2 close to 1.4 
 volts?  Do you have about 6 volts at U11 pin 6?

 Touch the counter probe to U11 pin 6 (careful not to short to an 
 adjacent pin).  Do you have a valid frequency reading?  If you do, then 
 the BFO is working, and the problem is with Q24 and its associated 
 components.  Be certain you have mounted D36 (the SMT1B) part correctly, 
 and the soldering of Q24, RP6, R98, and R99 is good.

 If still no progress, either assemble the parts provided in your K2 kit 
 for the RF Probe (schematic in Appendix E) or let us know that you have 
 an oscilloscope available.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Ken Mohler wrote:
   
 Hi Gang -

  

 I'm building my 2nd K2 and am at the point of Alignment and Test, Part II.
 All of the tests and alignment steps through the VCO alignment have been
 completed successfully.  Everything has been right in the center of the
 expected parameters.  Then I got to the BFO test.  I'm getting a reading
 
 of
   
 .00.  Here's what I know so far:  D37 and D38 are the correct types
 
 and
   
 oriented properly.  I have measured the resistance across the resistor
 holding L33 down (or up?) and get a reading of 1.5 ohms, indicating to me
 that L33 is intact and effectively soldered to the resistor leads.  I have
 checked the positioning of Q24 and it looks correct.  The right crystals
 
 are
   
 installed at X3 and X4 and grounding the cases went smoothly, so I don't
 think I overheated them.  I have reflowed the solder on the parts around
 
 the
   
 BFO area.  A symptom that may or may not mean anything: the S-Meter is
 showing S5.  It was properly adjusted back in Alignment and Testing Part
 
 I.
   
 What should I do next?

   
 

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[Elecraft] Switching power supplies...yet another comment

2010-07-17 Thread Edwin Johnson
Guess I have to add to the mix by saying I bought several years ago an 
MFJ-4125 25 amp switching power supply (the one without the meters and about 
6x6x2, or so) for portable use. I did a bit of research and at the time I 
bought it, the hash and output was smoother than anything on the market. (That 
sounds hard to believe, doesn't it? hi)

At any rate, absolutely no noise nor hash of any kind and I usually use random 
wire or end fed zepps for portable.

There have been some new introductions since then to the market which may have 
other advantages, but I will say this is an excellent choice at a fair price.

 Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 06:47:59 -0400
 From: John Ragle tpcj1...@crocker.com

  I have several inexpensive 25-amp switching supplies from Radio
 Shack and Pyramid. I also have a couple of linear supplies that are
 built like the battleships of yore, and some gel batteries for portable
 operation.
~
 John Ragle -- W1ZI

73 ...Edwin, KD5ZLB

Once you have flown, you will walk the earth with your eyes
turned skyward, for there you have been, there you long to
return.-da Vinci http://bellsouthpwp2.net/e/d/edwinljohnson
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[Elecraft] Need KXAT1 troubleshooting help

2010-07-17 Thread Mike M
I just finished building a KXAT1 for my KX-1.  When I got to the first  
step of testing, I got --- in the menu.  I have reseated the IC, and  
resoldered a few joints that looked a little questionable, but no  
change in the menu.  It looks ok to me, are there any other tests that  
I can do to see where the problem is?  Thanks.

73,
Mike, KL7MJ

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[Elecraft] K2 - Is Inventory Really Necessary?

2010-07-17 Thread stan levandowski
Thank you to all who responded both on- and off- list.  It was very 
helpful to receive different insights.  It was apparent that I am not 
the only builder who has struggled with the inventory issue, so I guess 
I had a legitimate query.

We can end this thread now.  I know what I'm going to do.

Thank you also for your good wishes as I begin my build.   2010 marks my 
50th year in ham radio and this K2 is my gift to myself.  I've built 
plenty of Heathkits over the years, homebrewed all kinds of stuff, and 
have been a strictly CW/Boat Anchor ham all this time.  I've always 
enjoyed being able to build, understand, and repair my own gear.  I've 
never had a rig with more than about 65 watts dc input (which would be 
about 30 watts out).  So naturally, I ordered the barefoot K2, the 
autotuner, and the NB.

But I'm sure going to miss my trusty old Weller 240 watt soldering gun 
with the worklight in the front, 1/8 inch thick solder, and components 
big enough to find if I happen to drop them

Thanks again, everyone!

Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] Need KXAT1 troubleshooting help

2010-07-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Mike,

Well, that is a case where the KX1 microprocessor is not seeing a 
response from the KXAT1 microprocessor.

How are you for digital path troubleshooting?  Have a digital 'scope?  
To troubleshoot in detail is cumbersome.
One thing that you can do is check to be certain the data paths between 
the two microprocessors is intact.  Be certain that is continuity 
between KX1 U1 pin 2 and KXAT1 U1 pin 17.

If your 'scope has a 10X probe on it, you can check at U1 pins 15 and 16 
to see if you can detect 4 MHz oscillation.  If there is none, then 
either the KAT1 firmware chip is defective or the resonator (Z1) is 
defective.  If you do not have a 10X probe, ignore this test because the 
'scope probe can load the circuit and oscillation will cease.

Check the soldering at KXAT1 P3, Z1 and U1, and also at KXAT1 J6 and 
U1.  Make certain the U1 chip is inserted correctly and there are no 
pins bent under the chip (you will have to move the chip up a bit out of 
its socket to see any bent under pins).

73,
Don W3FPR

Mike M wrote:
 I just finished building a KXAT1 for my KX-1.  When I got to the first  
 step of testing, I got --- in the menu.  I have reseated the IC, and  
 resoldered a few joints that looked a little questionable, but no  
 change in the menu.  It looks ok to me, are there any other tests that  
 I can do to see where the problem is?  Thanks.

 73,
 Mike, KL7MJ

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[Elecraft] FS: W2 Wattmeter

2010-07-17 Thread NZ8J
I put this together about a month ago, it looks and works as new. From a
non smoking environment. Comes with the 2000w 160-6m coupler.
Will ship and insure in the conus for $200.00

Thanks
Tim
Nz8J
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Repair - ALC Setting

2010-07-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim.

I might add that your PSK problem of working above 1000 Hz on the 
waterfall may be a result of setting the K3 power high an using the 
audio input level to control the power.

While that is the best for most of the transceivers in the marketplace, 
it is NOT the way to operate a K2 or K3.  The reason is that the K2 and 
K3 control power differently than most transceivers.  I have been 
stressing this point, and it seems to fall on deaf ears.

Set the audio input to the proper level - for the K2 that is to increase 
the audio until 1 ALC bar shows, and then back off until nonoe ar 
showing, and for the K3, adjust until you have 4 to 5 bars on the ALC 
display.

After doing that, set the power output desired and just operate.  There 
will be no 'fiddling' needed to adjust the audio level, and if there are 
slight variations in the transmit filter gain across the passband, they 
will be smoothed out by the K2/3 power control mechanism.`

Yes, this is different from the classical advice for data modes that is 
prevalent in cyberspace, but then most rigs do not control power outpt 
levels like the K2 and K3, so that advice may be valid for the YaKenIcom 
bunch, it is not good advice for the Elecraft transceivers.  Read the 
Elecraft K3 manual and believe it (except that the max ALC meter in data 
modes should be 5 instead of 7).
Your reward will be easier operation on DATA modes and better power 
control and IMD (unless you operate with all controls (including power) 
to the right).

73,
Don W3FPR

Jim Miller KG0KP wrote:
 - Original Message - 
 From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com

 snip
   
 The ALC meter on the K3 is not completely an indication of ALC - the
 first 4 bars act more like a VU meter to tell you the audio level.  The
 5th bar indicates the start of ALC action.

 73,
 Don W3FPR
 

 I may be reading something into part of what you say, straighten me out.

 Is the ALC setting at 4-5 bars the norm for any mode other than PSK? 
 Should it be 4-5 for SSB and other modes as well???

 Thanks es 73, de Jim KG0KP 


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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2010-07-17 Thread Kevin Rock
Good Evening,
   I have had a very pleasant day and week.  The weather has stabilized with 
temperatures in the high 60s to low 70s.  Under the canopy of the forest it is 
cool enough to work even on the hottest days cutting and hauling wood.  Another 
month or so and I should have around 2000 cubic feet of wood (approximately 15 
cords).  All the signs are pointing to a harsh and long winter.  I want to be 
cozy and warm so I am putting sweat equity into achieving that goal.  Winter is 
the time when I can spend long hours at the bench.  All of the tools and parts 
are in place for a very productive winter.  I now have faster Internet service 
so I can grab all the spec sheets and compiler parts I need.
   Propagation was slightly better this week than last but my data points were 
fewer since I did not get on the air as much.  Working long hours outside has 
kept me away from the radios.  Space Weather shows only one small spot on the 
sun although it could still produce a flare.  Reports of sporadic E contacts 
have dropped off lately so maybe it truly is summer.  My extended forecast is 
for dry weather with mild to chilly temperatures.  I wonder how long it would 
take me to re-acclimate to a Midwestern summer?  I do miss warm weather and 
humidity but the mosquitoes take a little of the fun out of the remembrances ;)

Please join us tomorrow afternoon and evening.
 
1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help  (as well as QSP/QNP relay help)
 
Sunday 2200z (Sunday 3 PM PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday z (Sunday 5 PM PDT)  7045 kHz
 
   Stay well,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS
 
-
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Re: [Elecraft] K-2 /100 Power Output Drop

2010-07-17 Thread Dennis Utley - AF7Y

Thank You for your post, Alexey.  It seems you are right about the problem
with my K2 being near the PA stage.  I discovered it does not happen below
10 watts.

I appreciate your input.

Dennis, AF7Y
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Re: [Elecraft] K-2 /100 Power Output Drop

2010-07-17 Thread Dennis Utley - AF7Y

Thank you for your response to my post, Don.  I did some more checking with a
watt meter that works better at QRP levels and found I don't have the power
drop below 10 watts.  Following  your suggestion I also tested the radio in
CW, and Tune modes.  The results are as follows:

CW

Power Set at   Actual Power 

11069
80  49
50  26

Tune
===
10662
87  49
50  26

SSB
=
100   100 for a couple of seconds when cold
80 40
47 28
40 18

The failing stage would seem to be the 100 watt amp board. 

It's surprising the set power and output readings are so different from CW
to TUNE modes.

Are there any adjustments on the PA board that might account for the power
out deficit?

Thanks for your input on my problem, and judging by your many posts, you
also help many others..

73
Dennis, AF7Y
===

quote author=Don Wilhelm-4
Dennis,

Such a problem is usually caused be a poor solder connection somewhere.  
The challenge is to find where.
You indicated this problem occurs on SSB.  What about CW?  Does it do 
the same thing?  How about when you do a TUNE?
If the problem occurs during a TUNE, then it will be easy to find the 
offending stage by the procedure below, but if it happens only on SSB, 
then we should look at the KSB2 board.

Since the problem occurs when the power is set to less than 11 watts, it 
is likely in the base K2, so remove the KPA100 and test only the base K2 
without the KPA100 attached.  If it does the same thing, then you should 
construct the RF Probe from the parts provided with your K2 kit (or tell 
us that you have an oscilloscope available), so you can trace through 
the transmit chain backwards and find the stage where the power is steady.

Let us know if my guesses are correct (please answer the questions 
above), and we can lead you to the failing stage, and after that you can 
find the failing component.

73,
Don W3FPR

Dennis Utley - AF7Y wrote:
 First the good news.  The receiver seems to be working well, even transmit
 power is
 at a full 100 watts (for a few seconds).  Then output drops quickly 
 to 50 watts.  Thats the bad news.

 I can set the power knob for output from 110 down to QRP power, and the
 first
 few seconds of transmission are at the selected power.  After the
 first few seconds power goes instantly to almost exactly 50% of what
 was manually selected.   100 watts becomes 50, 60 watts becomes 30,
 and 40 watts becomes 20 watts prox, (Peak indicated power on a
 calibrated digital peak reading  meter.)  (Model P-3000 by RF
 Applications, digital readout into dummy load on 40 meters.
 Indicating 1/1.  Same behavior if input to 1.1/1 SWR 40 meter beam.

 After this 50% drop, transmission continues normally, quality reports
 are good, and all is well, except my power is 50% of what it should be. 

 Maximum power after a few seconds of transmission is only about 55 watts
 Peak
 SSB.

 If I turn the radio off and wait a few moments.  It will again output
 full 100 watts peak SSB output for a few seconds then drop to 50%.

   
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Re: [Elecraft] Need KXAT1 troubleshooting help

2010-07-17 Thread Mike M
Don -
Thanks. Right after I sent the email I figured it out. I soldered the
IC socket onto the wrong side of the board. Once I got it soldered
onto the correct side of the board it worked perfectly!

This is the second time I've had a problem with ICs that turned out to
be my own fault.

73,
Mike, KL7MJ
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