Re: [Elecraft] OT: Small solar array to handle just the shack, computers, and lighting

[Wayne Burdick]

>> Am 25.09.2015 um 19:01 schrieb Jim McDonald:

>>> 60W equivalent LEDs are $3 for a pack of three at Costco in the Chicago 
>>> area due to an instant rebate from ComEd, the area power company.  I really 
>>> like them, so I need to find a home for my inventory of CFLs.


The proper place for CFLs, working or not, is a well-sealed toxic storage 
facility. Have you ever broken one? Clean-up of mercury dust is dicey at best. 
Having suffered through that, I don't want the stuff anywhere near my kids or 
pets again.

Hopefully, cheap LED bulbs will lay to rest fluorescents of all types. You can 
even get LED replacements for tubular fluorescent bulbs now. The LED 
equivalents brighter and have a warmer color. Once Home Depot replaces all of 
their ceiling bulbs with these, their display of new LED bulbs will look even 
better.

Wayne
N6KR


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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[kev...@coho.net]

Good Morning,
Please join us this afternoon and evening.

14050 kHz at 2200z Sunday (3 PM PDT Sunday)
 7045 kHz at 0100z Monday (6 PM PDT Sunday)

73,
Kevin. KD5ONS
-
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[Elecraft] OT: Solar - Mostly for Wayne

[Ken G Kopp]

The following from a number of years experience as a
power company communications tech with mountain
top solar radio repeater sites and a long-time RV solar
and wind power user.

Mounting solar panels in a flat position may turn out
to be the most practical.  The conventional way is to
angle them towards the sun at an angle equal to your
latitude, but even at 46 degrees here in Montana the
difference in output between 0 and 46 degrees is only
about 7%.  Hardly worth the trouble of dealing with the
mechanics of angle mounting or seasonal adjustment.

At Wayne's lower latitude, this is even more the case.

Our RV has 12A worth of panels and they're mounted
flat on the roof.  They charge four Trojan T-145 6V
(440AH) golf cart batteries (via a regulator) and we've
never run short of power.  BTW, the batteries have
been in service for almost 12 years.

There's a 1500W inverter for the TV, SatTV receiver,
computer(s), etc.  The one thing we don't do is power
the 1000W microwave oven via the inverter.  It requires
90 amps from the batteries to operate the microwave
and I hesitate to draw that from the battery for long
periods of time for fear of warping the plates.

I also have a small Air 403 windmill that mounts to the
RV's rear bumper that's good for 25A in a stiff breeze.
It also gets lots of interest from other RV'ers.  Especially
at the Quartzite, AZ gathering. (:-)

73!

Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 programming question

[Edouard Lafargue]

   Jindra,

   Very happy to see yet another chrome packaged app coming up! You can
check how it is done on my existing KX3 rig controller (Chrome packaged app
too ) at http://wizkers.io/ or https://goo.gl/DgLqXH . No need to reinvent
the wheel, it's all already implemented, and all open source (AGPL)  ;-)

The code you probably want to see is there:
https://github.com/wizkers/wizkers/blob/release/server/www/js/app/instruments/elecraft/display_live.js
where I manage a proper transmission buffer that makes sure you will
transmit and receive everything with no loss. Be careful that since Wizkers
is open source under the AGPL, your own app will automatically become open
source if you reuse any of this code... Do you have a link for your app?

If you like this existing project, you are more than welcome to
contribute! Wizkers already supports cool features like rigctld support,
Piglet support, etc...

73 de Ed, W6ELA





On Sun, Sep 27, 2015 at 1:55 PM,  wrote:

> Jindra,
> yes, just keep us posted when your done!
> 73
> Gernot
>
> PS: I guess you wanted to reply to the list.. you have to be careful most
> email programs reply to the sender by default.
>
>
> Hi Gernot,
>
> That could be it...  I am afraid I was expecting something like 40 chars
> and did not bother reading full details :-)
>
> It seems the correct approach is to split exchange into chunks of 24 chars
> max and instead of dumb chaining follow each chunk by KY; and wait for KY2;
> response, and only then continue.
>
> I was hoping to manage it without making the control program too busy,
> obviously KX3 needs a little bit more attention.
>
> Anyway, it is doing quite nice things in my Chrome packaged app.  I can
> manually switch everything and especially receive all responses with 100%
> reliability.
>
> Hopefully it will be usable for comfortable work in PSK-D and FSK-D modes
> (that is my main motivation), maybe for some CW contesting.
>
> Would you be interested when it is done?
>
> 73 Jindra
>
>
>
> Am 27.09.2015 um 00:31 schrieb g...@gmx.net:
>
>> Jindra,
>> check the KYn; response for error / success. See manual re. the KY
>> command. Might be a buffer overrun ? The buffer is limited to 24 chars
>> according to the specs.
>> 73
>> Gernot, DF5RF
>>
>> Am 26.09.2015 um 20:18 schrieb Jindřich Vavruška:
>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> I am programming yet another utility to control KX3 and I encountered a
>>> strange (inconsistent) behavior.
>>>
>>> In digital mode contest traffic it is necessary to switch to RX
>>> immediately
>>> after exchange has been sent. I learned that the way to do this is to
>>> send KYW>> to send>;RX; to the serial interface.  The RX; after KY will ensure
>>> immediate switch to receive and the W in KYW will ensure that the RX;
>>> will
>>> be interpreted after text sending is finished, i.e. will not interrupt
>>> ongoing transmission.
>>>
>>> What surprised me is that when I send something like:
>>> KYWCQ CQ CQ DE OK4RM;KYW DE OK4RM OK4RM PSE K;RX;
>>> i.e. split a long text in shorter chunks.  In such case I believe all the
>>> texts are sent (I have to verify that yet, though) but the effect of the
>>> final RX; disappears.
>>>
>>> Is this a mistake in my program workflow or could that be a firmware
>>> peculiarity? (I hesitate to call it a bug as everything else seems to
>>> work
>>> perfectly.)
>>>
>>> I think there will be no problem for a contest but if I wanted to use the
>>> same pattern for longer exchanges in casual digi QSOs that would make
>>> things a little bit more complicated.
>>>
>>> Thanks for any advice,
>>>
>>> Jindra
>>> OK4RM
>>> __
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>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>>> Message delivered to g...@gmx.net
>>>
>>>
>>
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>
>
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Post: 

Re: [Elecraft] K3S proper grounding?

[Bob McGraw - K4TAX]

I agree with Fred in that there is no one system or method that "fits 
all".  In general I view station grounding approaches as 4 different 
systems, all which should be implemented.


(a)   All driven grounds must be bonded to each other an to the AC Mains 
ground and this should occur outside of the structure or house.  I find 
no exception to this practice unless a tower is 200 ft or more from the 
structure at which point a ground system should be located at the base 
of the tower.


(b)  Third pin green wire or safety ground for equipment must always be 
in place and not "cheated" with an adapter.


(c)  All lightning protection should occur before any feed line or rotor 
control enters the building.   Its ground attachment should be part of 
the driven ground and bonding system.  Towers should have a ground from 
top to bottom and not relay solely on the structure alone.  Don't forget 
to bond the rotating mast out the top of the tower to the tower itself.


(d)  Certain type of antennas do require a specific ground system which 
I refer as RF Ground.   A few driven ground rods do not make a RF 
Ground.   Those being, but not solely inclusive, verticals, slopers, end 
fed Zepps, long wires and such as examples.



As to running a ground from the operating position to the outside ground 
system, I've never found this necessary with proper antenna 
installation.  In many cases, the length of the ground conductor becomes 
or acts as an antenna system and actual picks up RF from the 
transmitting antenna thus placing the station above RF ground. {Opinions 
will vary on this point.}  I view if one has RF on the equipment, don't 
run it to ground.  Change the antenna and / or feed system to get the RF 
to the antenna where it will do some good and thus not just warm the 
earth worms.


73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10,163

On 9/27/2015 3:20 PM, Fred Townsend wrote:

erry there is NO one size fits all grounding solution. As Don suggests you
are really dealing with four grounding systems. Your RF or rig ground, a
lightning ground, your NEC or house power ground (neutral), and finally the
safety ground (green wire) ground which is really part of the NEC ground.
Often the requirements of one system will be at odds with other grounding
requirements. For instance you generally want a high impedance for RFI
issues and a very low impedance for lightning grounds.  One system defeats
the other so they really need to be separate systems.
Your NEC and lightning grounds have very serious safety issues so running
your proposed wiring changes by your local power company can often be very
helpful. Most power companies have an expert on such issues although the
existence of such a person is often a closely held secret.
73
Fred, AE6QL



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Re: [Elecraft] K3S proper grounding?

[Fred Townsend]

Gerry there is NO one size fits all grounding solution. As Don suggests you
are really dealing with four grounding systems. Your RF or rig ground, a
lightning ground, your NEC or house power ground (neutral), and finally the
safety ground (green wire) ground which is really part of the NEC ground.
Often the requirements of one system will be at odds with other grounding
requirements. For instance you generally want a high impedance for RFI
issues and a very low impedance for lightning grounds.  One system defeats
the other so they really need to be separate systems. 
Your NEC and lightning grounds have very serious safety issues so running
your proposed wiring changes by your local power company can often be very
helpful. Most power companies have an expert on such issues although the
existence of such a person is often a closely held secret. 
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2015 12:08 PM
To: ae...@carolinaheli.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S proper grounding?

Your grounding plan sounds fine, *if* and only if you connect that separate
ground rod to the utility entrance ground rod using a #6 or #4 copper wire -
that wire should be buried several inches and run outside your dwelling
foundation.
That connection is a NEC requirement and is necessary for safety. All ground
rods *must* be connected together unless they are more than 100 feet apart.

You cannot create an RF ground by connecting to a ground rod.  It is only
for AC safety and a measure of lightning protection.

OCF antennas can be difficult to tame for RF in the shack.  Use of a very
good quality common mode choke at the feedpoint (in addition to the
4:1 balun) may help.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/26/2015 1:41 PM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:
> The plan I'm thinking of so far.
>
> 1.   Run an 8 gauge dedicated power feeder from my main panel (on the
> opposite side of the house) to the shack with a 20A breaker. The 8Ga 
> is to lower ground losses.
>
> 2.   Install a ground rod outside my shack and run a heavy gauge to the
> shack to bond with the dedicated power line ground.
>
> 3.   Ground all gear in the shack to the dedicated power ground.
>
> 4.   ?? maybe do a run of 14-2 romex with all three leads bonded together
up
> to the mast, install a mast antenna switch and ground it with the 14-2.
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 programming question

[gt-i]

Jindra,
yes, just keep us posted when your done!
73
Gernot

PS: I guess you wanted to reply to the list.. you have to be careful 
most email programs reply to the sender by default.



Hi Gernot,

That could be it...  I am afraid I was expecting something like 40 chars 
and did not bother reading full details :-)


It seems the correct approach is to split exchange into chunks of 24 
chars max and instead of dumb chaining follow each chunk by KY; and wait 
for KY2; response, and only then continue.


I was hoping to manage it without making the control program too busy, 
obviously KX3 needs a little bit more attention.


Anyway, it is doing quite nice things in my Chrome packaged app.  I can 
manually switch everything and especially receive all responses with 
100% reliability.


Hopefully it will be usable for comfortable work in PSK-D and FSK-D 
modes (that is my main motivation), maybe for some CW contesting.


Would you be interested when it is done?

73 Jindra


Am 27.09.2015 um 00:31 schrieb g...@gmx.net:

Jindra,
check the KYn; response for error / success. See manual re. the KY 
command. Might be a buffer overrun ? The buffer is limited to 24 chars 
according to the specs.

73
Gernot, DF5RF

Am 26.09.2015 um 20:18 schrieb Jindřich Vavruška:

Hello,

I am programming yet another utility to control KX3 and I encountered a
strange (inconsistent) behavior.

In digital mode contest traffic it is necessary to switch to RX 
immediately

after exchange has been sent. I learned that the way to do this is to
send KYW;RX; to the serial interface.  The RX; after KY will ensure
immediate switch to receive and the W in KYW will ensure that the RX; 
will

be interpreted after text sending is finished, i.e. will not interrupt
ongoing transmission.

What surprised me is that when I send something like:
KYWCQ CQ CQ DE OK4RM;KYW DE OK4RM OK4RM PSE K;RX;
i.e. split a long text in shorter chunks.  In such case I believe all 
the

texts are sent (I have to verify that yet, though) but the effect of the
final RX; disappears.

Is this a mistake in my program workflow or could that be a firmware
peculiarity? (I hesitate to call it a bug as everything else seems to 
work

perfectly.)

I think there will be no problem for a contest but if I wanted to use 
the

same pattern for longer exchanges in casual digi QSOs that would make
things a little bit more complicated.

Thanks for any advice,

Jindra
OK4RM
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[Elecraft] Wizkers 0.10.0 released, with Piglet support!

[Edouard Lafargue]

Hi everyone,

   Just a quick note to let you know that Wizkers 0.10.0 is now released
and available in the Chrome app store, always free as in $0, and always
free as in open source at github.com/wizkers .

For current users, Wizkers will automatically update, no need to do
anything in particular. For new users, you can visit https://goo.gl/DgLqXH
to install it (yes, this is a normal link, nothing to worry about, this is
the Google URL shortener).

New in this version for KX3 users:

- Piglets are now supported! Just use "TCP/IP" in the serial connection
dialog, enter the IP/Port of your Piglet, and make sure the Piglet/Radio
are both setup for 38400 baud. That's it.
- You can now configure all the macros in the data terminal mode
(Settings menu).

As a reminder: Wizkers can be installed from https://goo.gl/DgLqXH and
the complete documentation is online (and up to date) at
wizkers.github.io/wizkers-doc/ins/elecraft-kx3/ .

Though you can already use Wizkers on two computers for remote rig
operations (http://wizkers.github.io/wizkers-doc/ins/elecraft-remote-kx3/)
, the next version will hopefully make it even easier.

Enjoy, and as always, your feedback and encouragement is always very
appreciated!

73 de Ed, W6ELA
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Re: [Elecraft] Bucket treatment

[Al Gulseth]

Unfortunately, not a good idea. Most currently in use computer monitors and 
TVs, for example, have CCFL (cold cathode fluorescent light) backlights, thus 
the same hazardous materials issue as was mentioned regarding CFLs.

We've gone from lead as a hazardous material in CRT monitors to mercury in LCD 
panels. I'm not sure if we're making progress or not :-(

73, Al

On Sun September 27 2015 3:22:26 pm Ralph Parker wrote:
> >Bucket treatment: Find a big bucket large enough to hold the defective
>
> device,
>
> >fill the bucket with water, put the device in twice, take it out once
>
> I've had a considerable amount of satisfaction using a sledgehammer.
>
> VE7XF
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S proper grounding?

[Jim Brown]

On Sun,9/27/2015 2:32 PM, Bob McGraw - K4TAX wrote:
I agree with Fred in that there is no one system or method that "fits 
all".  In general I view station grounding approaches as 4 different 
systems, all which should be implemented.


(a)   All driven grounds must be bonded to each other an to the AC 
Mains ground and this should occur outside of the structure or house.  
I find no exception to this practice unless a tower is 200 ft or more 
from the structure at which point a ground system should be located at 
the base of the tower.


(b)  Third pin green wire or safety ground for equipment must always 
be in place and not "cheated" with an adapter.


(c)  All lightning protection should occur before any feed line or 
rotor control enters the building.   Its ground attachment should be 
part of the driven ground and bonding system.  Towers should have a 
ground from top to bottom and not relay solely on the structure 
alone.  Don't forget to bond the rotating mast out the top of the 
tower to the tower itself.


Yes, and to clarify, ALL of those grounded points MUST be bonded together.

(d)  Certain type of antennas do require a specific ground system 
which I refer as RF Ground.   A few driven ground rods do not make a 
RF Ground.   Those being, but not solely inclusive, verticals, 
slopers, end fed Zepps, long wires and such as examples.


Another clarification. What you're calling a ground system for an 
antenna is NOT a ground system at all. Rather, a radial system functions 
two ways -- it acts as a low loss return for antenna current and and as 
a return for the fields produced by the antenna. In other words, a 
radial field SHIELDS the antenna and its fields from lossy earth so that 
power is not wasted in the soil under the antenna.  In the absence of a 
radial system, we often use a COUNTERPOISE -- a wire connected to the 
return side of the coax (or the antenna tuner) to act as the return for 
current. The primary difference is that the counterpoise is simply 
another radiating part of the antenna, but it does not provide the 
shielding function.


Yes, broadcast radial systems are usually buried, but the skin depth of 
soil usually extends FAR below the topsoil on the AM broadcast band and 
on 160M, so the radial system is still providing the low loss return and 
shield.  Another benefit of radial systems is that they provide 
capacitive coupling to a wide area around an antenna, which improves the 
path to ground for lightning.


73, Jim K9YC

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Small solar array to handle just the shack, computers, and lighting

[bsusb]

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 10:56:35 -0700
Wayne Burdick  wrote:


> 
> The proper place for CFLs, working or not, is a well-sealed toxic storage 
> facility.

Maybe.. I prefer to leave them in the store that is foolish enough to try 
and sell them.

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[Elecraft] Bucket treatment

[Ralph Parker]

>Bucket treatment: Find a big bucket large enough to hold the defective
device,
>fill the bucket with water, put the device in twice, take it out once

I've had a considerable amount of satisfaction using a sledgehammer.

VE7XF

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[Elecraft] SSB Net for Sunday, Setpember 27th

[James Wilson]

Conditions were rather poor for the net today but they have been
worse.  We did manage to log in some 30 stations.  Roy, AB7CE
running his 10 watt K2, SN 40 from Montana started the net with
assists from John-N6JW, Eric-WB9JNZ, Phil-NS7P, Dave-KI4DN,
Chris-KO4DN, myself - Jim-W4RKS and others. I tried to keep
the log up here in North Texas. Sorry about the few omissions.

Those logged in included:

N6JW John CA K3  936
WB9JNZ Eric IL K3  4017
N8NM Ron AZ KX3  6966
AB7CE Roy MT
N8XIY Carl OH K3  7971
NS7P Phil OR K3  1826
W0CZ Ken ND K3S  10329
KE7FSD Al AZ K3  8532
WM6P Steve  GA K3  8133
K6SIL/M CO K'wood TS480
K7BRR Bill OR K3  5545
KI4DN Craig  FL
KO4MOK John FL  K2
K5LAE Jim OK K3  1068
K0GS Bud CO K3  8892
KF7JZH Ray ID KX3  2262
KC8HXD Greg  MI K2  270
NJ5W Rick TX K3  7411
W8OV Dave  TX K3  3139
K9QJS/9 Hoop  IL KX3 ?
KO4DN Chris  FL Icom
KE7HGE Ken WA KX3  4540
KG7MZ Dean  WA K3  3873
W7QSD Kurt AZ K2 1538
K9USC Robert  IL  KX3  4460
K6HGW Dave HI K3  4599
ZL2PWD Peter  NZ K3  3139
KD7EX/M BobWA 857
K0YO Mike CO KX3  3892
W4RKS Jim TX K3  3618

KC9USB   Brian was heard but just could not copy.

Many thanks for all who called in or attempted to. To those,
who didn't make it - hopefully conditions will be better
next Sunday. Please excuse my several errors and
omissions - blame it on my senior moments. :-) HI

Jim - W4RKS
Fort Worth, TX
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Re: [Elecraft] Bucket treatment

[Ben Hall]

I've had a considerable amount of satisfaction using a sledgehammer.


When we first moved into this house, cash was tight, so I bought *the 
cheapest* gas-powered weed-eater I could find.


Worked fine for about three years, then it started running poorly.  No 
matter what I did, plugs, carb cleaning, fresh gas, etc., it ran poorly 
until one day it kept quitting.


Finally got so pissed off that I grabbed it by the cutter end and swung 
it over my head into the driveway, bashing it into bits multiple times. 
 :)  VERY stress relieving.


Replaced it with a Husqvarna.  While not Elecraft quality, it's very, 
very nice and makes weed-eating almost fun.


thanks and 73,
ben, kd5byb

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[Elecraft] CFL's - LEDs - Solar

[Dale Putnam]

For those looking at CFLs or LEDs in the shack, and presuming that is where you 
built, very close attention must be given to
the color and intensity of the light emitter. Especially if you are working 
with hole through color coded components, like resistors.
The perceived color of the bands/dots may NOT be exactly what was intended, NOR 
what will be percieved when re-examined under direct sunlight. Direct sunlight 
is tuff to come by after sundown and prior to dawn, and with the longer hours 
of winter darkness coming, look hard and long at the different light emitters. 

a simple word to the builder, from the... now a bit wiser.  

Have a great day, 
 
 
--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy
 
 
  
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Re: [Elecraft] Bucket treatment

[Phil Wheeler]

Gives new meaning to the term "Bucket List" :-)

In B.C. perhaps that's a Sledgehammer List!

73, Phil W7OX

On 9/27/15 1:22 PM, Ralph Parker wrote:

Bucket treatment: Find a big bucket large enough to hold the defective

device,

fill the bucket with water, put the device in twice, take it out once

I've had a considerable amount of satisfaction using a sledgehammer.

VE7XF


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S proper grounding?

[Jim Brown]

Often the requirements of one system will be at odds with other grounding
requirements. For instance you generally want a high impedance for RFI
issues and a very low impedance for lightning grounds.  One system defeats
the other so they really need to be separate systems.


NO, NO, NO, NO!

ALL grounds in any premises MUST be bonded together. To separate them is 
both ILLEGAL and DANGEROUS.



Your NEC and lightning grounds have very serious safety issues so running
your proposed wiring changes by your local power company can often be very
helpful.


Better -- there are two tutorials about power and grounding on my website.

73, Jim K9YC

http://k9yc.com/SurgeXPowerGround.pdf  is written for sound and video 
professionals. I got paid pretty good to write it, and also to teach it 
at industry conventions.


http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf  is written specifically for hams.


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[Elecraft] Cabela's Specials

[Fred Townsend]

I just finished my sojourn to  Cabela's. I noticed they had a nice plastic
gun case with foam inserts that fit my K3. They have a credit card promotion
which gives $25 off your first purchase which halved the price of the gun
case. They also have equivalent plastic stackable waterproof 50 cal ammo
cases for a little over ten bucks. I'm ready for field day now. 

73
Fred, AE6QL

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Re: [Elecraft] CFL's - LEDs - Solar

[Phil Kane]

On 9/27/2015 11:51 AM, Dale Putnam wrote:

> For those looking at CFLs or LEDs in the shack, and presuming that is
> where you built, very close attention must be given to the color and
> intensity of the light emitter.

I took a page from my wife's avocation -- art -- and use
daylight-color-corrected lamps for everything but mood lighting., even
for the extension-arm lighted magnifier and hand-held  magnifiers that I
use for inspecting radio parts and boards.  Prices for those devices
have come down greatly over the last few years.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Bucket treatment

[Jim Brown]

On Sun,9/27/2015 1:22 PM, Ralph Parker wrote:

I've had a considerable amount of satisfaction using a sledgehammer.


:)

Jim
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Solar - Mostly for Wayne

[Fred Townsend]

Ken:
I would add the caveat that not all cells are wide angles like yours. After
maximum power aiming mine (Harbor Freight) are at 25% of rated power within
15 minutes. That makes aiming them almost a full time job.
73
Fred, AE6QL 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken G Kopp
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 1:57 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Solar - Mostly for Wayne

The following from a number of years experience as a power company
communications tech with mountain top solar radio repeater sites and a
long-time RV solar and wind power user.

Mounting solar panels in a flat position may turn out to be the most
practical.  The conventional way is to angle them towards the sun at an
angle equal to your latitude, but even at 46 degrees here in Montana the
difference in output between 0 and 46 degrees is only about 7%.  Hardly
worth the trouble of dealing with the mechanics of angle mounting or
seasonal adjustment.

At Wayne's lower latitude, this is even more the case.

Our RV has 12A worth of panels and they're mounted flat on the roof.  They
charge four Trojan T-145 6V
(440AH) golf cart batteries (via a regulator) and we've never run short of
power.  BTW, the batteries have been in service for almost 12 years.

There's a 1500W inverter for the TV, SatTV receiver, computer(s), etc.  The
one thing we don't do is power the 1000W microwave oven via the inverter.
It requires
90 amps from the batteries to operate the microwave and I hesitate to draw
that from the battery for long periods of time for fear of warping the
plates.

I also have a small Air 403 windmill that mounts to the RV's rear bumper
that's good for 25A in a stiff breeze.
It also gets lots of interest from other RV'ers.  Especially at the
Quartzite, AZ gathering. (:-)

73!

Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] CFL's - LEDs - Solar

[Jim Sheldon]

I bought all my LED's from a number of different sources and they are assorted 
brands.  The only thing i looked for was color temp and they had to be 
"dimmable".   After I swapped all the CFL's and tubes out, my background noise 
dropped by around a half S unit.  

I then killed all the lights in the house and the noise floor stayed the same.  
To check for sure, I put a rubber duck antenna on my KX3 set it to AM, 6 meters 
and turned all the lights on.  Even with the antenna right on each bulb, I 
didn't see any significant change in the background noise.  

My closest neighbor had all CFL's and I could take the KX3 near his house when 
he had his lights on.  S7 noise on 10 and 6.  After he had a CFL catch fire, he 
bit the bullet and went all LED. Now, as long as the power company keeps the 
trees out of the lines and the insulators clean, my noise floor runs pretty 
much right at whatever atmospheric background is. 

I don't know what type of LED bulbs my neighbor got but they are quiet.

Jim, W0EB

 

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 27, 2015, at 8:59 PM, Phil Hystad  wrote:
> 
> My house is filled with some cheap LED lights — there are four in the ham 
> shack alone.  Never have I had any EMI issues from these lamps.  By cheap, I 
> mean the lower cost LED lights from Home Depot.  I don’t really go out of my 
> way to get the cheapest things I own — after all, I have a full K-Line and 
> KX3.
> 
> 73, phil, K7PEH
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Re: [Elecraft] CFL's - LEDs - Solar

[Matthew Cook]

You should find that many of these lamps will have a little known value
written on the side of the box that will help you decide.  The ]Colour
Rendering Index (CRI) of these lamps will tell you how faithfully they will
reproduce all colours of the spectrum.  If you find a lamp without this
information on the side of the box, then be careful and perhaps don't buy
it.

A CRI of greater than 90% (0.9) with a colour temp between 3000-4000 will
be adequate for the shack and reading of resistors and colour codes.  It
turns out that brown and deep reds are very difficult colour to faithfully
reproduce from blue rich white light, which isn't a new phenomenon since
long arc fluorescent, CFL and LED all derive white light the same way.  For
reference low pressure and high pressure metal halides have a CRI of 100%
which is why you find them used in art museums, ditto tungsten et al.

However pay careful attention to noise from these more modern lamps, the
EMI from some cheap and nasty LED/CFL lamps is just hideous.  We all want
to preserve the noise floor for our Elecraft RX's, just to keep this on
topic.

73

Matthew
VK5ZM


On 28 September 2015 at 04:21, Dale Putnam  wrote:

> For those looking at CFLs or LEDs in the shack, and presuming that is
> where you built, very close attention must be given to
> the color and intensity of the light emitter. Especially if you are
> working with hole through color coded components, like resistors.
> The perceived color of the bands/dots may NOT be exactly what was
> intended, NOR what will be percieved when re-examined under direct
> sunlight. Direct sunlight is tuff to come by after sundown and prior to
> dawn, and with the longer hours of winter darkness coming, look hard and
> long at the different light emitters.
>
> a simple word to the builder, from the... now a bit wiser.
>
> Have a great day,
>
>
> --...   ...--
> Dale - WC7S in Wy
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] CFL's - LEDs - Solar

[Phil Hystad]

My house is filled with some cheap LED lights — there are four in the ham shack 
alone.  Never have I had any EMI issues from these lamps.  By cheap, I mean the 
lower cost LED lights from Home Depot.  I don’t really go out of my way to get 
the cheapest things I own — after all, I have a full K-Line and KX3.

73, phil, K7PEH


> On Sep 27, 2015, at 6:05 PM, Al Gulseth  wrote:
> 
> On that subject, does anyone know of any tests for which brands of lamps 
> (LED, 
> I don't use CFLs!) are better for low EMI? As noted it would seem that the 
> name brand units would be better in this regard, but maybe not?
> 
> 73, Al
> 
> On Sun September 27 2015 6:42:19 pm Matthew Cook wrote:
>> 
>> However pay careful attention to noise from these more modern lamps, the
>> EMI from some cheap and nasty LED/CFL lamps is just hideous.  We all want
>> to preserve the noise floor for our Elecraft RX's, just to keep this on
>> topic.
>> 
>> 73
>> 
>> Matthew
>> VK5ZM
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[Elecraft] OT: Don't forget eclipse

[Ken G Kopp]

Now fully eclipsed here in SW Montana

73

Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Don't forget eclipse

[Bob McGraw - K4TAX]

Try SPACEWEATHER.COM for a real time viewing.

73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10,163


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Solar - Mostly for Wayne

[Ken G Kopp]

Fred, that's REALLY odd!  Does your panel appear to have any sort of "lens"
in front of the individual cells?  Wonder how is one to put them to
practical use .

Mine are Kyrocera units about 10 years old and rated a just over 3A each.

73

Ken - K0PP
On Sep 27, 2015 5:19 PM, "Fred Townsend"  wrote:

> Ken:
> I would add the caveat that not all cells are wide angles like yours. After
> maximum power aiming mine (Harbor Freight) are at 25% of rated power within
> 15 minutes. That makes aiming them almost a full time job.
> 73
> Fred, AE6QL
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken G Kopp
> Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 1:57 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Solar - Mostly for Wayne
>
> The following from a number of years experience as a power company
> communications tech with mountain top solar radio repeater sites and a
> long-time RV solar and wind power user.
>
> Mounting solar panels in a flat position may turn out to be the most
> practical.  The conventional way is to angle them towards the sun at an
> angle equal to your latitude, but even at 46 degrees here in Montana the
> difference in output between 0 and 46 degrees is only about 7%.  Hardly
> worth the trouble of dealing with the mechanics of angle mounting or
> seasonal adjustment.
>
> At Wayne's lower latitude, this is even more the case.
>
> Our RV has 12A worth of panels and they're mounted flat on the roof.  They
> charge four Trojan T-145 6V
> (440AH) golf cart batteries (via a regulator) and we've never run short of
> power.  BTW, the batteries have been in service for almost 12 years.
>
> There's a 1500W inverter for the TV, SatTV receiver, computer(s), etc.  The
> one thing we don't do is power the 1000W microwave oven via the inverter.
> It requires
> 90 amps from the batteries to operate the microwave and I hesitate to draw
> that from the battery for long periods of time for fear of warping the
> plates.
>
> I also have a small Air 403 windmill that mounts to the RV's rear bumper
> that's good for 25A in a stiff breeze.
> It also gets lots of interest from other RV'ers.  Especially at the
> Quartzite, AZ gathering. (:-)
>
> 73!
>
> Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S proper grounding?

[Phil Kane]

On 9/27/2015 1:20 PM, Fred Townsend wrote:

> Most power companies have an expert on such issues although the
> existence of such a person is often a closely held secret. 

One of the members of our consulting engineering firm (Tom Croda,
KA6KBI) was THE national expert on communication site power and
grounding.  When he passed away a while back I could only hope that I
learned something "at his feet".  I do know that the local Red Lobster
restaurant took a big financial hit when he passed away - it was the
site of many evening-long discussions on our clients' problems and the
oddities that he found since his last trip through here.

RIP. Big Man.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Bucket treatment

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Just curious, did you ever clean out the little
screen in the muffler called the "spark arrester"?

I have "fixed" a number of small heavily used 2
cycle powered devices by doing just that.  Most
would barely run and full throttle acted like the
choke was on.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On
Behalf Of Ben Hall
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 6:42 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Bucket treatment

> I've had a considerable amount of satisfaction
using a sledgehammer.

When we first moved into this house, cash was
tight, so I bought *the
cheapest* gas-powered weed-eater I could find.

Worked fine for about three years, then it started
running poorly.  No matter what I did, plugs, carb
cleaning, fresh gas, etc., it ran poorly until one
day it kept quitting.

Finally got so pissed off that I grabbed it by the
cutter end and swung it over my head into the
driveway, bashing it into bits multiple times. 
  :)  VERY stress relieving.

Replaced it with a Husqvarna.  While not Elecraft
quality, it's very, very nice and makes
weed-eating almost fun.

thanks and 73,
ben, kd5byb

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Re: [Elecraft] CFL's - LEDs - Solar

[Al Gulseth]

On that subject, does anyone know of any tests for which brands of lamps (LED, 
I don't use CFLs!) are better for low EMI? As noted it would seem that the 
name brand units would be better in this regard, but maybe not?

73, Al

On Sun September 27 2015 6:42:19 pm Matthew Cook wrote:
>
> However pay careful attention to noise from these more modern lamps, the
> EMI from some cheap and nasty LED/CFL lamps is just hideous.  We all want
> to preserve the noise floor for our Elecraft RX's, just to keep this on
> topic.
>
> 73
>
> Matthew
> VK5ZM
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[Elecraft] Shack in progress

[Jerry Moore]

Just got the hutch mechanically cut and assembled. Next will be edge trim, then 
staining and sealing. 

Jer
-- 
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
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[Elecraft] Fwd: RE: K3S proper grounding?

[Jim Brown]

-Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brown Sent: 
Sunday, September 27, 2015 3:49 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: 
Re: [Elecraft] K3S proper grounding?


> Often the requirements of one system will be at odds with other > 
grounding requirements. For instance you generally want a high > 
impedance for RFI issues and a very low impedance for lightning > 
grounds. One system defeats the other so they really need to be separate 
systems. NO, NO, NO, NO!


 [Fred Townsend] Well yes maybe. How do you bond a ferrite
choke? Are not all chokes high impedance at their intended
useful frequency? I said 'system' not 'ground'.

[K9YC]

Huh? Chokes are used on SIGNAL lines, NOT on bonding conductors. A 
fundamental requirement of bonding is that it be LOW IMPEDANCE, so, in 
general, bonding conductors should not be choked. Further, lightning is 
NOT a DC event, it is an RF event. It's an impulse, with broad energy 
peak around 1 MHz.


73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] SSB Net for Sunday, Setpember 27th

[James Wilson]

Here are some corrections to the roster:

K8XIY was listed in error, the correction:
K8NU   Carl in OH  K3 7976

Ron was listed as Ray. The correction:
KF7JZH  Ron in ID  KX3 2262

Greg's call was incorrect. The correction:
KC8HXO  Greg in MI  K3 270

I just can't read my own handwriting. :-)

Again, Thanks to all and 73,

Jim - W4RKS
Fort Worth, TX
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Don't forget eclipse

[kev...@coho.net]

I am still waiting for the moon to rise over the mountain to my 
southeast and south.

GL,
Kevin.  KD5ONS

On 9/27/2015 8:04 PM, Bob McGraw - K4TAX wrote:

Try SPACEWEATHER.COM for a real time viewing.

73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10,163


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Re: [Elecraft] Cabela's Specials

[Matt Zilmer]

Cabela's, Bass Pro, and Harbor Freight sell an ammo case that fits a
KX3 plus a few accessories (mic, KXPD3, 2m antenna [Diamond RH205],
ear buds.  It's marketed sometimes with the name Plano, but often with
no tradename.  This little case is perfect for a mobile KX3 carrier.
It's not quite proper for hiking.

This might be the 50 cal ammo can Fred is talking about, below.  The
price I paid was $9 a few years ago.

73,
matt
W6NIA

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 17:12:05 -0600, you wrote:

>I just finished my sojourn to  Cabela's. I noticed they had a nice plastic
>gun case with foam inserts that fit my K3. They have a credit card promotion
>which gives $25 off your first purchase which halved the price of the gun
>case. They also have equivalent plastic stackable waterproof 50 cal ammo
>cases for a little over ten bucks. I'm ready for field day now. 
>
>73
>Fred, AE6QL
>
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Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
--
"Always store beer in a dark place."  -R. Heinlein

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Don't forget eclipse

[Matt Zilmer]

The blood moon was pretty fantastic from Montrose, CO.

73,
matt
W6NIA

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 20:21:10 -0700, you wrote:

>I am still waiting for the moon to rise over the mountain to my 
>southeast and south.
> GL,
> Kevin.  KD5ONS
>
>On 9/27/2015 8:04 PM, Bob McGraw - K4TAX wrote:
>> Try SPACEWEATHER.COM for a real time viewing.
>>
>> 73
>> Bob, K4TAX
>> K3S s/n 10,163
>
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Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
www.elecraft.com
831-763-4211  x129


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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: RE: K3S proper grounding?

[Fred Townsend]

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 10:16 PM
To: Reflector Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] Fwd: RE: K3S proper grounding?











-Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brown Sent: 
Sunday, September 27, 2015 3:49 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: 
Re: [Elecraft] K3S proper grounding?

 > Often the requirements of one system will be at odds with other >
grounding requirements. For instance you generally want a high > impedance
for RFI issues and a very low impedance for lightning > grounds. One system
defeats the other so they really need to be separate systems. NO, NO, NO,
NO!

  [Fred Townsend] Well yes maybe. How do you bond a ferrite choke? Are not
all chokes high impedance at their intended useful frequency? I said
'system' not 'ground'.

[K9YC]

Huh? Chokes are used on SIGNAL lines, NOT on bonding conductors. A
fundamental requirement of bonding is that it be LOW IMPEDANCE, so, in
general, bonding conductors should not be choked. Further, lightning is NOT
a DC event, it is an RF event. It's an impulse, with broad energy peak
around 1 MHz.

[Fred Townsend] Correct on all scores
Jim I think you have tunnel vision on bonding. Jim as others suggested this
was really an EMI issue and I was addressing this as a system or EMI issue.
In this case chokes are appropriate for signal AND power cords containing
neutral. I don't believe anyone suggested chokes on bonding conductors.
However you suggested everything should be bonded and I merely asked how you
bond a choke.

Also the NEC as well as other codes prohibit tying neutral and safety (green
wire) together. Two cases I called out in my four different parts of the
system. So no you do not tie all grounds together.

Furthermore I think the whole issue of grounding is exacerbated by the
overuse and incorrect use of the word 'ground'. The Brits prefer to use the
word 'earth' which helps a little. I would prefer to bury the word 'ground'
and replace it with context appropriate words like 'signal common' but that
isn't common practice.

73,
Fred, AE6QL 

73, Jim K9YC

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delivered to fptowns...@earthlink.net

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Don't forget eclipse

[Ian Kahn]

Unfortunately, cloudy and rainy here in Metro Atlanta. :-(

Ian, KM4IK
On Sep 27, 2015 10:51 PM, "Ken G Kopp"  wrote:

> Now fully eclipsed here in SW Montana
>
> 73
>
> Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Don't forget eclipse

[David Pratt]

On 28 Sep 2015 05:52, Matt Zilmer  wrote:
>
> The blood moon was pretty fantastic from Montrose, CO. 
>
How did it affect radio conditions, Matt, particularly as regards noise and on 
which bands? Were you using the new Synth boards?

73 de David G4DMP
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