Here's an idea for the shared key...
Assuming a key with 2 leads and 4 rigs...
Build a switch box around something like an NKK MRX204 rotary switch
(This one switches 2 common leads simultaneously to 4 pairs of 2
switched leads) Add a perf board or custom PCB with appropriate chassis
and 3.5mm
I apologize. I must have missed that part...
__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389
On 2/17/2016 4:31 PM, Dave Cole wrote:
> Hi,
> Yes, the ";" is a slight delay... However I believe this issue goes
> beyond a simple delay...
>
> As I mentioned in my last post, I have a
Well, as it turns out, MOST of the engineering improvements in products
come from the field by way of OCD folks like us.
You should feel good that you contributed to the process.
I am sure someone in the loop is monitoring this thread and making notes
for possible documentation/design changes.
At the bottom of the home page, enter your subscribed email address and select
“Unsubscribe or edit options”. Then enter your password on the next page that
comes up.
On the configuration page, the second selection in the group of grey areas is
“Set Digest Mode”. Click “On”
At the bottom of
I'm dense, I went to the page and didn't see where to convert to digest
instead of individual emails.
Frank KG6N
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You might consider investing in an inexpensive automotive trim removal tool.
The one I use from Advance Auto is non-marring and has multiple edges for
sliding into the tiniest apertures - you know the crack in which you tried
to use that screwdriver and messed up the powder coat finish?
Ken -
They are simple "press on" knobs. I rest my knuckles against the front panel
while pulling on the knob and they pop right off.
73 Ron AC7aC
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Michael Blake
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 2:52 PM
Well said Al,
It seems to me that the list gets especially weird when the bands are bad!
At any rate, a lot of the problems would be solved if people would follow
your advice to wait overnight and also, as part of that process, re-read
the OP and be sure you understand the question.
Rick
K6LE
Don and Craig, thanks for the input. I have a new front panel on the way to
correct a defect but did not want to bugger up either the knobs or old panel.
I just remembered that they fit very tightly when I built the KX3.
Thanks again, problem defined and solved.
Michael Blake
k9...@mac.com
Elecraft eMail LIST GUIDELINES 2016
For those of you who are new to the list, (and for those of us who have rapidly
failing memories) here is a quick list of things to remember when posting to
this list. Please save this for future reference.
The most important thing to remember is that this
There's a lot of tension on the list right now. Can we all just step back for a
second?
This list, at times, can be downright infuriating to those of us who ask a
question in good faith, only to have the thread go off the rails in a matter of
minutes. I've been victimized countless times.
No worries Jim, I found out what I needed to know before proceeding,
thanks for the reply.
Cheers!
73,
Gary, KA1J
> My apologies, Gary -- I misinterpreted your query72 de Jim R. K9JWV
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context:
>
I hate swapping cables! To avoid it, I use a Shure Model SCM800 8/9 input
mixer ($50 to $150 on that auction site) and a Dave Clark headset. I have
audio on demand from 4 hf rigs, a vhf/uhf rig, and XM radio. Not a word of
complaint from the XYL when I listen to 2 or more sources at once!
K3/100 Serial #250 with included options:
Factory Assembled
KAT3 internal tuner
KXV3A Transverter/IO board
KPA100
2.7 kHz filter
500 hZ cw filter.
Gold pins on KPA and KREF boards. Upgrades include,DSP, K312MDKT,KSYN3
stiffeners, REMIOUPGD, 4 new pushbutton encoders, K3AudProtMDKT Audio
protection
My apologies, Gary -- I misinterpreted your query72 de Jim R. K9JWV
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Amp-or-tuner-Chicken-or-Egg-tp7614243p7614267.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
I already suggested the manual. Ye, download it and read it.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On Feb 17, 2016, at 5:52 PM, Gary Smith wrote:
>
> Fellows, it was just a simple question I asked here so as to not
> bother the techs at Elecraft with what may be an arcane
Jim! How does your answer relates to the " Original Poster's " Question???!
73 Milverton / W9MMS
From: James Bennett
To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 4:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner /
Yep, I’ve looked and there is a *lot* of information on this reflector about
the subject.
I have worked with David Anderson, GM4JJJ, on setting up my KX3 trying to
minimize the connecting and disconnecting of cables to my Focusrite 2i2 sound
card. The more I thought about the advice he gave
I'm sorry that I'm getting contacted off list by others who've brought this
up and the fact it's easily findable by google.
Just the fact that elecraft won't officially acknowledge the issue OR that
you've not personally seen it doesn't mean it doesn't exist.
Do a little research then come back
Your friendly local ACE hardware carries Permatex ULTRA BLACK PX 82180 RTV
Silicone Gasket Maker - it is a non corrosive alcohol based cure.Not acetic
acid.
DXE also sells the same stuff in same package.
73
Hank K7HP
- Original Message -
Trivia ... RTV stands for room temperature
Gary,
It does not really make that much difference - there are no
inter-dependencies. The assembly manual tells builders to build up the
K3S with the LPA first, then do the 5 watt calibration - that has
already been done for you in your K3S/10 Factory assembly. After that,
install the KAT3
Michael,
Yes, the procedure is just to pull them up. It may take a bit of force,
but it works fine.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/17/2016 5:52 PM, Michael Blake wrote:
Is there a process or tool for removing the four push on knobs on the front
panel of the KX3 without damaging the knob or panel?
Jerry,
While that tape works, there is a downside to it. The K3/K3S uses the
enclosure to assure the best shielding. When you add that tape, you are
reducing the points of contact between the covers of the K3 and the
internal shields.
The impact of the tape may be small in your particular
Fellows, it was just a simple question I asked here so as to not
bother the techs at Elecraft with what may be an arcane question.
I have the ATU kit and the amp kit in my hands, I'm not sending them
back. Why I want an ATU has nothing to do with my question.
FWIW, I do have resonant antennas;
Is there a process or tool for removing the four push on knobs on the front
panel of the KX3 without damaging the knob or panel?
Michael Blake
k9...@mac.com
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Trivia ... RTV stands for room temperature vulcanizing. It "dries" (cures)
by absorbing moisture.
To speed the "drying" in a dry environment, cover with a wet paper towel,
cloth, etc.
If it smells like acetic acid, it's corrosive.
If it smells like BenGay (SP?) back rub it's not. Dow Corning
"Don't be lazy, fix your antennas. If they aren't broken, then build
resonate antennas. They just work the best.”
Well, not everyone has the luxury of enough real estate for a bunch of resonant
antennas. When one wants to be able to operate multiple HF bands, a multi-band
antenna (like a
Hi,
Yes, the ";" is a slight delay... However I believe this issue goes
beyond a simple delay...
As I mentioned in my last post, I have a set of macros, where the last
macro crashes the first macro in the string... In my mind, that pretty
well eliminates all timing issues...
--
73's, and
Not even 10 post yet, and the subject has already morphed into something
else.The OP asked which of the two should he install first.How did this become
X length of coax, or having a Resonant antenna?OR! Being Lazy?
73 Milverton / W9MMS.
From: Michael Walker
I have a question for a friend who is looking for a KX3 used. Are older
serial numbers like the 2000s vs 7000s different hardware?
In other words, what on the used market should he look for, or is there much
difference. I know the K3 series are different, but I don't know about the
KX3s.
I
They're independent. Since the KAT3 tuner is just a plug-in, I'd suggest
installing it and the KPA3 shield first (do everything in the KPA3
instructions down to "Installing the KPAIO3A Interface Module"), since the
both require more mechanical disassembly. Put everything back except for the
K3 top
I'm sorry you lost your "Warm, Fuzzy" feeling for Elecraft. But, in
all due respect, this is the first time I've heard this issue come up.
So, if it is not an issue for the other ~11,000 owners, how is it that
they should have a "ready fix" for the unusual example?
Loose screws, speaker
As a wise ham told me. What do you need a tuner for?
Don't be lazy, fix your antennas. If they aren't broken, then build
resonate antennas. They just work the best.
Mike va3mw
On Wed, Feb 17, 2016 at 4:57 PM, Gerald Manthey wrote:
> Why is 10' to 15' of coax what you
Make sure you use non-acidic silicon glue that is compatible with PC boards to
do this.
Other types can degrade traces etc on the board.
Eric
/elecraft.com/
On 2/17/2016 11:05 AM, Jerry Moore wrote:
That's exactly what I found. After speaking with Howard I've wedged the
ferrite with a bit of
Why is 10' to 15' of coax what you would want if using a tuner in the shack? I
know about loses in really long runs, but why 10 to 15 feet?
Thanks asking to learn not criticizing.
Gerald
> On Feb 17, 2016, at 3:31 PM, Jim Rodenkirch wrote:
>
> Gary - depends on your
I don't think that's what he asked.
If the K3S is at all like the K3, the the assembly manual will tell you.
I remember there is some calibration stuff to do before adding either
the ATU or PA, and it tells you which to do first.
73,
Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in
I had someone contact me off list to suggest putting some small bits of tape
where the cover touches the center stiffener. I did that and now have zero
buzzing except around 440HZ or when monitor is turned up nearly all the way.
I'm not sure why this isn't an advertised fix. Tape/silicon the
Gary - depends on your antenna and how you feed it.
If you intend to feed a multi-band antenna with open wire line, you'll need
some sort of tuner at the point where you transition from open wire to coax:
- if you plan on doing that out near the base of your antenna (the most
efficient spot)
KAT3A ATU first... There are cals and such to do BEFORE the PA is
installed. In my Assembly manual, the PA went in last before the final
button-up.
READ the Assembly Manual to confirm... Once the PA is in, (with its
shield), the chassi gets tight around the ATU board areas where you
replace
I haven't looked into the command language for the P3 in depth yet...
Is there a command for a "time delay". It would appear that you need to
insert a time delay in between each individual command to allow the unit
time to respond to each step.
Just a SWAG... (If the command doesn't exist, it
Check the K3S assembly manual. If I remember correctly from my Original K3
assembly, the manual paused to instruct you when it was time to install various
options to allow you to install or skip steps if yu were not installing that
option.
> On Feb 17, 2016, at 4:12 PM, Gary Smith
Just got my factory assembled K3s/10 delivered. I need to install the
100W amp and internal tuner. Seems like I'd want to install the amp
first.
Yes?
Thanks & 73,
Gary
KA1J
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Hello Tim and Gary,
I have done extensive testing in trying to get a macro to perform this
exact behavior...
I do not believe "currently" there is a way to make this happen via
macro commands.
If you perform the needed steps by hand, with lots of space between
commands, it works, if you
I have found a P3. Tnx Chuck
73 De Mike
VE3YF
http://www.ve3yf.com
[http://www.ve3yf.com/]
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Post:
No, I have not done this mod. But I have just added it to the list,
because I AM using the internal speaker. External speakers are on the
list, but some way down, so I will be using the internal speaker (or
actually phones) for some time.
In all fairness, I would think this issue is only rarely
Have you done this ?
Even after wedging the ferrite beads I can get the case to buzz harmonically
if I lower the monitor tone significantly. I'm happy because it works where
I listen.
Once I finish with Morse Academy classes it will probably be rare for me to
use the built in speaker. I would
UG-1185's have a captive center pin which can't migrate.
73
K0PP
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This list
Howard is a good man. Glad you were able to ID the issue cause. Sorry
it took me so long to get on-board. I'm studying for my Extra exam
Saturday and am not paying close attention)
IDEALLY, the external speaker (if I had the money right now, 2 each)
would be a great "fix", but I would also
That's exactly what I found. After speaking with Howard I've wedged the
ferrite with a bit of cardstock and the buzzing is gone where I listen. If I
change the spot frequency around I am able to find harmonic spots that make
the case buzz. Howard also gave permission via one of the other folks
No sir... referring to the terminals/plugs on the SO-239 leads soldered
to the SO-239 panel connectors in Part# E850229.
The TMP connectors you reference are used in point-to-point connection
between PCBs in other locations and have mating sockets.
These terminals plug into plated through-holes
Another possible cause... If you have the 100W PA option, you MIGHT be
hearing ferrite beads rattling inside the PA module. I don't know why
they are loose on the wires, but they are and you can hear them rattle
when you shake the module prior to install.
The Assembly Manual references them and
Just did so... Was trying not to bother those guys with a seemingly
trivial task, but
Let's consider this thread closed to the reflector. I will respond
off-line after this.
__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389
On 2/17/2016 12:13 PM, Ken Wagner K3IU wrote:
> You might
Like new K3/100 watts factory assembled
One of the latest production, serial 8915
- 2.7 kHz 5-pole SSB/CW filter
- KSYN3A from factory (the new synth which is shipped with all new K3S
radios)
Non-smoking, no pets, no children home, and always used as a base station
-- not mobile.
Jerry: Do you have the KRX3 sub receiver installed and, if so, is there a
foam pad on the back of the speaker magnet shield that presses against the
top of the sub receiver enclosure? (See pg 46 of the Rev H KRX3A manual.)
If that pad (or the magnet shield) is missing you'll have the speaker in
You could --
Tune up 1/2 of your span width (in your example up 2.5 kHz). Press "CENTER" on
the P3. That would put your desired DX signal at the left edge of the display
and the mayhem out to the right.
I'm unaware of any way to do this directly in the current firmware.
Grant NQ5T
Sent
Mike:
Suggest changing fuses in input fuse block. I have experienced an
intermittent fuse problem in other equipment in the past that produced very
puzzling symptoms.
73 and good luck,
Dan
AC6DM
--
View this message in context:
Thank you. Nice article. Good references.
Other than the potential center pin overheating at 1kW+, I don't see
anything there of concern to me in my installation (and I can address
that potential in other ways... namely, higher quality connectors with
proper materials used in the pin and shell
Are you referring to a TMP connector, Taiko Denki (plug) TMP-K01X-A1
(Taiko-Denki) ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-pcs-TMP-connector-Taiko-Denki-plug-TMP-K01X-A1-Ta
iko-Denki-/131727979173?hash=item1eab9972a5:g:qPIAAOSwRLZUHJQi
ken - ke4rg
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft
Final edits: sorry for the resend but I keep needing to update the email as
it's missing parts.
Hi, I thought I had the sound issue licked with the loose case screws but I
still hear the buzz. I believe I found the issue and it's NOT the speaker
(well I don't believe based on my findings).
You might have luck communicating with
pa...@elecraft.com.
73, Ken K3IU
~~
On 2/17/2016 1:05 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
But the original question remains: "What are the pins on the ANT1 and
ANT2 lead ends that plug into the PCBs called?"
Have a great day!
_
Actually, for this application, I will be using Times Microwave
TC-series N-Connectors which are crimp/ solder for the shield/contact.
The pin is soldered to the center conductor with a 0.050" standoff from
the PE insulation. The shield is crimped to the connector shell with a
0.255" hex crimp
Fellow Hams,
Having spent the last 2 days playing with the P3 (very
impressed) - and eventually figuring out how to get the Function keys to do
something (Not well explained in the Manual IMHO), I’ve got some Macro’s
working - So next job - in the P3 Display is there any way
Remove the trailing zero (.htm only) and the link will work.
Rick nhc
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 17, 2016, at 9:42 AM,
> wrote:
>
> http://www.wa1mba.org/UHFconn.htm0
>
> bob k3djc
>
> On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 09:31:28 -0800 Jim Brown
http://www.wa1mba.org/UHFconn.htm0
bob k3djc
On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 09:31:28 -0800 Jim Brown
writes:
> On Wed,2/17/2016 6:21 AM, Clay Autery wrote:
> > Please cite your authority for the "superiority" of "UHF
> Connectors" to quality N-Connectors.
>
On Wed,2/17/2016 6:21 AM, Clay Autery wrote:
Please cite your authority for the "superiority" of "UHF Connectors" to quality
N-Connectors.
N-connectors have a well known problem with migration of the center
conductor.
Many, including me, consider a soldered connector superior to crimps. I
Hi Dick,
Don't be too quick to blame the amplifier relay. It could be your SteppIR
yagi. This is a common SteppIR problem. QSY a bit so that the tuning light
on the SteppIR controller turns on and off. Then tune back and forth over
that frequency and listen for a drop in signal strength. If it
Thanks John! Yes... a quality Amphenol or other name maker, the right
tools, and experience make them quite easy to use in terminating coax.
I have also had good experience with the TImes Microwave TC series AND
EZ series.
The EZ series makes it "literally" a snap to do with the right strip
tool
On 2/17/2016 2:05 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
>
> Perhaps that's what you're selling now, and if it is, that's great.
The microHAM supplied cables have been the same from the very start.
Again, schematics are on the web site. The cables consist of special
multi-cable bundles with six individually
Please cite your authority for the "superiority" of "UHF Connectors" to
quality N-Connectors.
I've been making all my own cables for 25+ years. N-Connectors and BNC
connectors are no harder and "UHF" connectors are not any easier. If
you've terminated enough cables with most any series
Gary, I find N-Type connectors just as easy to assemble as UHF connectors.
73,
Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net
> On Feb 17, 2016, at 05:24, Gary K9GS wrote:
>
> Exactly Jim
>
> N and BNC connectors are also more difficult to assemble. Makes no sense to
> me.
>
>
My station has a lot of N connectors on HF and I find them easy to install
on RG8 size coax. I recently installed BNC connectors on RG8X for my RX
system, I was previously using UHF to BNC adaptors. It took me a little
while to figure them out, but they are really not difficult either. I only
Exactly Jim
N and BNC connectors are also more difficult to assemble. Makes no
sense to me.
On 2/17/2016 12:41 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
On Tue,2/16/2016 6:59 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
I've decided to replace the SO-239 bulkhead connectors for ANT1 and ANT2
with N-Connectors, but I don't want to
I have the following K3-100F (not S) for sale.
Serial # 8233 with the following features:
Main Receiver has the following 8 Pole Filters: 6, 2.8,1.8,.400,.250
KRX3-F Sub Receiver with the following 8 pole Filters: 2.8, .400
KDVR3-F Digital Voice Recorder
KXV3B-F RX Ant., 2nd Pre-Amp, IF Out and
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