[Elecraft] Wanted: KFL3A 1.0 Khz. filter for K3

[Donald Schliesser]

If you have one for sale, please contact me off list.

Donald K6RV
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Power Consumption at 15W?

[Tom Crayner]

Don,

Agree wholeheartedly, when home I connect up to a Rigrunner hanging
downstream off a 35A power supply.

I was looking for something small (portable) to toss in a travel bag when
on vacation.

Tom


On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 11:34 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> I recommend a power supply with a current rating of 6 amps or greater for
> the KX3 (and K2/10 or any other Elecraft legacy gear).
> My reason is that you likely have accessories in the shack that need to be
> powered.
> Using a power supply that is only marginal for the transceiver is false
> economy IMHO.
> If you have a 20 or 30 amp power supply available, use it.  There is no
> sense in having a marginal power supply just because the transceiver only
> draws 2.1 amps at 10 watts.
>
> This advice is for home stations, for portable operation the answer will
> be different and depend on the operating aspirations.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 4/5/2016 10:38 PM, Tom Crayner wrote:
>
>> Anyone happen to know power consumption of the KX3 when running at the
>> relatively new 15W RF output setting?
>>
>> I had read a while back that it was around ~2.1A at 10W.  Looking at tiny
>> power supply options and don't want to underrate.
>>
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 COM Port Not Working

[tomb18]

HiYou should now do a Google search for how to show hidden devices in the 
control panel. You can then delete the hidden devices if they are now useless. 
This will free up any comport assignments you may have floating around.7e Tom


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone. Original message From: 
N8NCR  Date: 2016-04-05  11:45 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 COM Port Not Working 
Unfortunately I think I found the problem. A USB 3.0 port may have fried
both KXUSB cables. I found a 3rd KXUSB cable I had hiding in storage,
hooked it up to the KX3 and laptop and it worked immediately.

For anyone that got to this thread via search engine, here are some
symptoms:

Elecraft KX3 Utility v1.13.8.24

Activity Log:
Attempting to contact KX3 on port COM8 at 38400 bit/s
Attempting to contact KX3 on port COM8 at 19200 bit/s
Attempting to contact KX3 on port COM8 at 9600 bit/s
Attempting to contact KX3 on port COM8 at 4800 bit/s

On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 11:22 PM, N8NCR  wrote:

> I have a brand new KX3, kit build. I had a hard time getting the KX3
> utility to connect to the radio and its being rather picky. I was able to
> get it to connect once automagically and after that it hasn't worked again.
>
> I've tried:
> 2 different KXUSB cables
> Different USB ports
> Different computers (Win7/Win10)
> Different baud rates
> Setting baud rate in device manager to corresponding rate on radio
> Updating drivers
> Restarting computer/KX3
>
> I'm plugging in the ACC1 port and running firmware 2.38 and out of
> troubleshooting steps. Any ideas?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 COM Port Not Working

[Don Wilhelm]

Do you see the COM port listed in the Device Manager listing without any 
exclamation mark?  If not, then your computer and the FTDI driver needs 
to be addressed first.  You can download the driver from the Elecraft 
website, although in my experience, Windows 7 or Windows 10 will load 
the correct driver.


Once you have the COM port that is assigned to the USB adapter, then set 
K3Utility (KX3Utility) to use whichever port is assigned.  If you change 
the USB plug, expect the assigned COM port to change.


Test Communications in the Utility applications should reveal connection 
or no connection.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/5/2016 11:22 PM, N8NCR wrote:

I have a brand new KX3, kit build. I had a hard time getting the KX3
utility to connect to the radio and its being rather picky. I was able to
get it to connect once automagically and after that it hasn't worked again.




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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 COM Port Not Working

[N8NCR]

Unfortunately I think I found the problem. A USB 3.0 port may have fried
both KXUSB cables. I found a 3rd KXUSB cable I had hiding in storage,
hooked it up to the KX3 and laptop and it worked immediately.

For anyone that got to this thread via search engine, here are some
symptoms:

Elecraft KX3 Utility v1.13.8.24

Activity Log:
Attempting to contact KX3 on port COM8 at 38400 bit/s
Attempting to contact KX3 on port COM8 at 19200 bit/s
Attempting to contact KX3 on port COM8 at 9600 bit/s
Attempting to contact KX3 on port COM8 at 4800 bit/s

On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 11:22 PM, N8NCR  wrote:

> I have a brand new KX3, kit build. I had a hard time getting the KX3
> utility to connect to the radio and its being rather picky. I was able to
> get it to connect once automagically and after that it hasn't worked again.
>
> I've tried:
> 2 different KXUSB cables
> Different USB ports
> Different computers (Win7/Win10)
> Different baud rates
> Setting baud rate in device manager to corresponding rate on radio
> Updating drivers
> Restarting computer/KX3
>
> I'm plugging in the ACC1 port and running firmware 2.38 and out of
> troubleshooting steps. Any ideas?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Power Consumption at 15W?

[Don Wilhelm]

I recommend a power supply with a current rating of 6 amps or greater 
for the KX3 (and K2/10 or any other Elecraft legacy gear).
My reason is that you likely have accessories in the shack that need to 
be powered.
Using a power supply that is only marginal for the transceiver is false 
economy IMHO.
If you have a 20 or 30 amp power supply available, use it.  There is no 
sense in having a marginal power supply just because the transceiver 
only draws 2.1 amps at 10 watts.


This advice is for home stations, for portable operation the answer will 
be different and depend on the operating aspirations.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/5/2016 10:38 PM, Tom Crayner wrote:

Anyone happen to know power consumption of the KX3 when running at the
relatively new 15W RF output setting?

I had read a while back that it was around ~2.1A at 10W.  Looking at tiny
power supply options and don't want to underrate.




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[Elecraft] KX3 COM Port Not Working

[N8NCR]

I have a brand new KX3, kit build. I had a hard time getting the KX3
utility to connect to the radio and its being rather picky. I was able to
get it to connect once automagically and after that it hasn't worked again.

I've tried:
2 different KXUSB cables
Different USB ports
Different computers (Win7/Win10)
Different baud rates
Setting baud rate in device manager to corresponding rate on radio
Updating drivers
Restarting computer/KX3

I'm plugging in the ACC1 port and running firmware 2.38 and out of
troubleshooting steps. Any ideas?
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[Elecraft] KX3: Power Consumption at 15W?

[Tom Crayner]

Anyone happen to know power consumption of the KX3 when running at the
relatively new 15W RF output setting?

I had read a while back that it was around ~2.1A at 10W.  Looking at tiny
power supply options and don't want to underrate.

Tom, W2YF
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[Elecraft] Firmware Failure - Update

[James D. (Jimmy) Walker, Jr. via Elecraft]

I’m getting some interesting responses to my question about firmware failure. 
Thanks to everyone who has replied directly. To update my post, I always turn 
the rig off using the power switch. I never turn off the power supply to the 
rig. There is always power available at the power input. When the MCU LD 
failure occurs, it’s always at the power on, startup time, after the rig has 
been idle for a week or two. If the rig will power on correctly, it will not 
fail during operation. 

Does the EEPROM unplug to make replacement easier?

Jimmy, WA4ILO

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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

As Don said, heat is important to use the blob method. I have a 275 watt
Weller D-550 gun with a fat tip that does a great job, but I still prefer
sanding. Just fold a bit of sand paper and trap the wire inside and pull.
Repeat while turning the wire until it's all clean, then tin.

Some enamel wire is more easily heat-strippable than others. In fact, I've
seen some brands advertised as "heat strippable" with "Thermaleze" or
"Solidon(r)" insulation.  

Like LS, I like the smell of hot rosin. It's part of Ham Radio for me. 

73, Ron AC7AC

 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
lstavenhagen
Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2016 5:52 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

Glad I use the sandpaper method on my toroid leads lol. In fact, funny this
should come up, because I just started winding my new K2's toroids this
evening. But the solder blob method fails on this kit in exactly the same
way as it did on my first K2 some years ago. It's possible that the tip in
my iron is too cold (weller WTCPT with 700f tip), but I can hold it onto the
wire forever and it'll never bubble up and burn off. Go figure 

But as others have noted, it scrapes off pretty easily so I just use some
fine sandpaper and I can clean them almost all the way up to the hilt (the
toroid body). Works perfectly as long as I'm not too aggressive and remove
too much metal.

I too kind of like the smell of flux, but I try to keep from breathing it in
too much.

73,
LS
W5QD



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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Don Wilhelm]

LS,

Yes, the solder blob method works best with a wide tip on the iron to 
hold a substantial blob of solder and a temperature of 800 degF.
I use my Hakko 808 for stripping leads, and it works wonderfully. The 
only downside is that the enamel residue accumulates in the desoldering 
tip and I have to clean it well after using it for stripping and 
tinning.  For those who have a desoldering iron similar to the Hakko 
808, put the lead in the tip and add a bit of solder at the junction of 
the tip and wire.  When you see a puff of smoke come out, pull the 
trigger and extract the lead.  You should find a nicely stripped and 
tinned lead.

Clean the desoldering iron afterwards.

I would discourage builders from using the "flick the BIC" stripping.  
While it does vaporize the enamel, there is a residue left that often 
resists proper tinning afterward.  My repair activities have revealed 
many PTTL (Poorly Tinned Toriod Leads) that have been stripped of enamel 
using a flame.  If you do use a flame to strip the toroid leads, clean 
the residue from the leads with sandpaper and then tin.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/5/2016 8:51 PM, lstavenhagen wrote:

Glad I use the sandpaper method on my toroid leads lol. In fact, funny this
should come up, because I just started winding my new K2's toroids this
evening. But the solder blob method fails on this kit in exactly the same
way as it did on my first K2 some years ago. It's possible that the tip in
my iron is too cold (weller WTCPT with 700f tip), but I can hold it onto the
wire forever and it'll never bubble up and burn off. Go figure

But as others have noted, it scrapes off pretty easily so I just use some
fine sandpaper and I can clean them almost all the way up to the hilt (the
toroid body). Works perfectly as long as I'm not too aggressive and remove
too much metal.




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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[lstavenhagen]

Glad I use the sandpaper method on my toroid leads lol. In fact, funny this
should come up, because I just started winding my new K2's toroids this
evening. But the solder blob method fails on this kit in exactly the same
way as it did on my first K2 some years ago. It's possible that the tip in
my iron is too cold (weller WTCPT with 700f tip), but I can hold it onto the
wire forever and it'll never bubble up and burn off. Go figure 

But as others have noted, it scrapes off pretty easily so I just use some
fine sandpaper and I can clean them almost all the way up to the hilt (the
toroid body). Works perfectly as long as I'm not too aggressive and remove
too much metal.

I too kind of like the smell of flux, but I try to keep from breathing it in
too much.

73,
LS
W5QD



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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Don Wilhelm]

The wire Elecraft supplies is in the category of "Thermalese" which is 
heat strippable, but if you get wire from an electric motor shop, that 
insulation will likely be "Formvar" which resists heat and must be 
mechanically stripped.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/5/2016 7:17 PM, Scott Ellington wrote:
There are two very different kinds of insulation used on magnet wire. 
One type, which I presume Elecraft uses, can be stripped with solder 
and a sufficiently hot soldering iron.  It's also fairly easy to 
scrape off.  The other, "heavy polythermaleze", or whatever it's 
called these days, is practically indestructible. It has to be 
stripped mechanically, and even that's hard.  I think the copper would 
melt before the stuff would burn.  Unless you're planning to run your 
toroids really hot, it's more trouble than it's worth.


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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Scott Ellington]

There are two very different kinds of insulation used on magnet wire.  
One type, which I presume Elecraft uses, can be stripped with solder and 
a sufficiently hot soldering iron.  It's also fairly easy to scrape 
off.  The other, "heavy polythermaleze", or whatever it's called these 
days, is practically indestructible.  It has to be stripped 
mechanically, and even that's hard.  I think the copper would melt 
before the stuff would burn.  Unless you're planning to run your toroids 
really hot, it's more trouble than it's worth.


73,

Scott  K9MA

On 4/5/2016 17:58, Dauer, Edward wrote:

The ³Blob Method² worked well for me in building the K2 (and now the K1);
but it might be important not to inhale.

At the time I looked into what¹s in the fumes when both the solder and the
enamel coating on the wire are smoking.  While I don¹t know exactly what
the coating is on the particular wire supplied by Elecraft, in general
when it¹s vaporized the coating is vile stuff.  I set a fan on the
workbench to direct the fumes away from my face; and I still held my
breath for each winding leg.  Makes it useful to learn how to do a fast
Blob Strip.

Ted, KN1CBR



Message: 11
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2016 22:32:59 -0400
From: Don Wilhelm 
To: lstavenhagen , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 (still) a classic!
Message-ID: <570323db.5090...@embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

LS,

There is a "secret" to soldering the grounding wires to the base of the
crystals.
. . .

It is easier for me than stripping and tinning toroid leads.

73,
Don W3FPR


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--
Scott Ellington  K9MA
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

k...@sdellington.us

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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[David Anderson via Elecraft]

I seem to recall they could produce cyanide fumes. Best to use good ventilation 
and a fume extractor fan with filter if you are doing a lot of them. I like the 
smell of solder flux, but after reading about the health problems they can 
cause I invested in a fume extractor here.

73 from David GM4JJJ

> On 6 Apr 2016, at 00:08, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Yes, the fumes from that burnt enamel are quite nasty.  I would say they are 
> more harmful than normal solder flux vapors.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 4/5/2016 6:58 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
>> The ³Blob Method² worked well for me in building the K2 (and now the K1);
>> but it might be important not to inhale.
>> 
>> At the time I looked into what¹s in the fumes when both the solder and the
>> enamel coating on the wire are smoking.  While I don¹t know exactly what
>> the coating is on the particular wire supplied by Elecraft, in general
>> when it¹s vaporized the coating is vile stuff.  I set a fan on the
>> workbench to direct the fumes away from my face; and I still held my
>> breath for each winding leg.  Makes it useful to learn how to do a fast
>> Blob Strip.
>> 
>> Ted, KN1CBR
>> 
>> 
>>> Message: 11
>>> Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2016 22:32:59 -0400
>>> From: Don Wilhelm 
>>> To: lstavenhagen , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 (still) a classic!
>>> Message-ID: <570323db.5090...@embarqmail.com>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>>> 
>>> LS,
>>> 
>>> There is a "secret" to soldering the grounding wires to the base of the
>>> crystals.
>>> . . .
>>> 
>>> It is easier for me than stripping and tinning toroid leads.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Don Wilhelm]

Yes, the fumes from that burnt enamel are quite nasty.  I would say they 
are more harmful than normal solder flux vapors.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/5/2016 6:58 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

The ³Blob Method² worked well for me in building the K2 (and now the K1);
but it might be important not to inhale.

At the time I looked into what¹s in the fumes when both the solder and the
enamel coating on the wire are smoking.  While I don¹t know exactly what
the coating is on the particular wire supplied by Elecraft, in general
when it¹s vaporized the coating is vile stuff.  I set a fan on the
workbench to direct the fumes away from my face; and I still held my
breath for each winding leg.  Makes it useful to learn how to do a fast
Blob Strip.

Ted, KN1CBR



Message: 11
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2016 22:32:59 -0400
From: Don Wilhelm 
To: lstavenhagen , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 (still) a classic!
Message-ID: <570323db.5090...@embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

LS,

There is a "secret" to soldering the grounding wires to the base of the
crystals.
. . .

It is easier for me than stripping and tinning toroid leads.

73,
Don W3FPR





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[Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Dauer, Edward]

The ³Blob Method² worked well for me in building the K2 (and now the K1);
but it might be important not to inhale.

At the time I looked into what¹s in the fumes when both the solder and the
enamel coating on the wire are smoking.  While I don¹t know exactly what
the coating is on the particular wire supplied by Elecraft, in general
when it¹s vaporized the coating is vile stuff.  I set a fan on the
workbench to direct the fumes away from my face; and I still held my
breath for each winding leg.  Makes it useful to learn how to do a fast
Blob Strip.

Ted, KN1CBR


>Message: 11
>Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2016 22:32:59 -0400
>From: Don Wilhelm 
>To: lstavenhagen , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 (still) a classic!
>Message-ID: <570323db.5090...@embarqmail.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>
>LS,
>
>There is a "secret" to soldering the grounding wires to the base of the
>crystals.
>. . . 
>
>It is easier for me than stripping and tinning toroid leads.
>
>73,
>Don W3FPR
>

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[Elecraft] Jade Products battery charger

[John Gibson]

I have a Jade Products battery charger, originally purchased as a kit and built 
about 1999. The design uses a UC3906 three-state charger IC, which was very 
much in vogue at the time. A label on the charger indicates that the company 
was located in E. Hamstead, NH. I believe the designer and company owner was a 
ham.

I have lost the owner’s manual and am looking for any literature I can find on 
the charger. I especially would like to have a circuit diagram.

If you can help me, please reply off list.

Thank you.

73,
John Gibson, no8v
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Re: [Elecraft] Firmware Failure

[Don Wilhelm]

Jimmy,

That MCU LD should only happen on rare occasions, like when power is 
interrupted or the computer 'glitches' during a firmware download.

When does it occur?  At Power ON time?
If so, how are you turning off your K3?  You must use the POWER button 
to turn the K3 off.  Powering off your power supply can cause that failure.
You may want to check your power supply to see if it is dropping out, or 
if the power cable is faulty.


The firmware is stored in EEPROM and there is no need for a 'backup 
battery'.  The only battery in the K3 is the coin battery that runs the 
clock.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/5/2016 4:49 PM, James D. (Jimmy) Walker, Jr. via Elecraft wrote:

I wrote a few months ago about the strange occurrence of finding my firmware 
missing or corrupted on my K-3. In it’s state of failure it displays MCU LD on 
a dark screen. The Transmit light blinks on and off. My computer cannot detect 
the K-3 to reload the firmware. The problem has occurred several times. The 
solution, inconvenient but workable, is to disconnect the P-3 and hook the 
computer up directly to the K-3. In doing so, I can reload the firmware. My 
question is, “Why does my K-3 lose it’s mind?” Is there some battery that backs 
up the firmware? Could such a battery be dead as happens sometimes in older 
computers? This is very inconvenient. Help please.




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Re: [Elecraft] For Sale: SP3 External Speaker

[Mike Dodd]

On 4/5/2016 2:44 PM, Mike Dodd wrote:

The SP3 has been sold. Thanks, Henry.

--
73, Mike N4CF
Louisa County, VA USA
Elecraft KX3 + KXPA100 @ 100W
Elecraft PX3 panadapter
Carolina Windom up 45'
http://n4cf.mdodd.com
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[Elecraft] Firmware Failure

[James D. (Jimmy) Walker, Jr. via Elecraft]

I wrote a few months ago about the strange occurrence of finding my firmware 
missing or corrupted on my K-3. In it’s state of failure it displays MCU LD on 
a dark screen. The Transmit light blinks on and off. My computer cannot detect 
the K-3 to reload the firmware. The problem has occurred several times. The 
solution, inconvenient but workable, is to disconnect the P-3 and hook the 
computer up directly to the K-3. In doing so, I can reload the firmware. My 
question is, “Why does my K-3 lose it’s mind?” Is there some battery that backs 
up the firmware? Could such a battery be dead as happens sometimes in older 
computers? This is very inconvenient. Help please.

Jimmy, WA4ILO

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[Elecraft] For Sale: SP3 External Speaker

[Mike Dodd]

UPS just delivered my K3s kit s/n 10727. 8^)

What was I thinking?!

I foolishly ordered an SP3 external speaker without checking where I 
would put it. There is no place for it, so I'm selling it.


The speaker is still in its factory-sealed carton, ready to ship to you.

I paid $179.95 plus shipping, but will sell it for $165.

I'll pay the first $15 of the shipping cost (I prefer Priority Mail).

Check, money order, or PayPal (you pay 3% PP fee).

Please reply OFF LIST directly to me.

--
73, Mike N4CF
Louisa County, VA USA
Elecraft KX3 + KXPA100 @ 100W
Elecraft PX3 panadapter
Carolina Windom up 45'
http://n4cf.mdodd.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Internal Speaker Update!

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Picking up this thread late, but have you run into this situation? From the
Kit Assy Manual:

If you hear nothing in the speaker when first applying power to your K3S
(and no headphones
plugged in) hold CONFIG to access the configuration menu, then rotate VFO B
to display SPKR+PH.
Tap 1 on the numeric keypad until you see PH.R SW - and exit the menu.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
pastor...@verizon.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2016 4:40 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Internal Speaker Update!

Here is an update to the internal speaker issue with my K3.
1. If I plug my headphones into the speaker jack in the back I hear audio.
2. But, for #1 to happen the speaker setting in config must be #2. If it is
#1, I get no audio.
3. I have even plugged in a new speaker I received from Elecraft yesterday
and I still don't get audio from the internal speaker.
4. I am going to send this information to Howard at Elecraft Service to get
his opinions on this.
5. Not sure whether the KIO3 board is defective or not. I have never moved
or done anything with the board for it to become unseated.

Mark Griffin, KB3Z

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[Elecraft] Fault anomolie...F6700, KPA500, KAT500 update

[george allen]

Thanks to all for the configuration suggestions and as suggested,  the
"help" button provided additional guidance.

I have changed the configuration in regard to "Amp Key Interrupt..." and
VSWR Threshold as suggested.

i have tested band switching for a while and it all seems to work well
now!  Should the problem recur, I should be able to correct it. I will
start remote testing shortly.

I very much appreciate all of the help and guidance offered to me!  Many
thanks!

George
K2CM
Vestal, NY
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Re: [Elecraft] Fault Anomalie with Flex 6700, KPA500, KAT500

[Ken]

If I understand your situation, you are depending on the rf signal 
triggering the change in frequency and tuning.  That usually works but 
is slower than having the tuning set before you push the transmit button.


Using something like DxLab Commander lets a signal be sent to the tuner 
(or amplifier) as soon as you change the VFO and therefore the amp and 
tuner can be ready as soon as the transmit switch is thrown.


Likewise the Flex friendly utility DDUTIL will communicate with the 
KPA500 as well as DXCommander.


Ken WA8JXM

On 4/4/16 5:25 PM, george allen wrote:

I am using a Flex 6700 into a KPA500 into a KAT500.  I have "trained" the
tuner and placed the tuner into manual mode as per a document from Elecraft.

All works well when I stay on a specific band.  When I initiate a "tune",
the tuner quickly goes to the preset tuning without a problem.

When I go to another band, for example if I am operating on 40 then go to
20, it takes a second for the tuner to read the frequency during which both
the tuner and KPA500 see a high SWR.  The amp then locks out.

I am using the cabling as described on page 10 of the KAT500 manual; but,
instead of Icom transceiver, I am using a Flex transceiver.

While this is not an issue when operating from my shack, when I operate
from a remote location, I am unable to use the amplifier.

Any thoughts on how to correct this issue?

George
K2CM


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Re: [Elecraft] Internal Speaker Update!

[Cady, Fred]

Given those symptoms I don't think this is it,  but you could try going to 
speaker+phones and tapping the 1 key to toggle between PH.R SW- and +.
Cheers,
Fred KE7X

For all KE7X Elecraft books, see www.ke7x.com




From: Elecraft  on behalf of 
pastor...@verizon.net 
Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2016 5:39 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Internal Speaker Update!

Here is an update to the internal speaker issue with my K3.
1. If I plug my headphones into the speaker jack in the back I hear audio.
2. But, for #1 to happen the speaker setting in config must be #2. If it is #1, 
I get no audio.
3. I have even plugged in a new speaker I received from Elecraft yesterday and 
I still don't get audio from the internal speaker.
4. I am going to send this information to Howard at Elecraft Service to get his 
opinions on this.
5. Not sure whether the KIO3 board is defective or not. I have never moved or 
done anything with the board for it to become unseated.

Mark Griffin, KB3Z

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[Elecraft] Internal Speaker Update!

[pastormg2]

Here is an update to the internal speaker issue with my K3.
1. If I plug my headphones into the speaker jack in the back I hear audio.
2. But, for #1 to happen the speaker setting in config must be #2. If it is #1, 
I get no audio.
3. I have even plugged in a new speaker I received from Elecraft yesterday and 
I still don't get audio from the internal speaker.
4. I am going to send this information to Howard at Elecraft Service to get his 
opinions on this.
5. Not sure whether the KIO3 board is defective or not. I have never moved or 
done anything with the board for it to become unseated.

Mark Griffin, KB3Z

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Re: [Elecraft] KBPF3A Upgrade successful

[Eric NO3M]

Dave

Congrats on your TA reception and thanks for the spots!  I am still 
using a transverter (VK3XDK) with my K3 here, haven't upgraded synths yet.


GL 630M, hope we can QSO some day when band gets approved for Amateur 
use here.


73 Eric NO3M / WG2XJM


On 04/05/2016 02:37 AM, Dave wrote:

I modified the two KBPF3 in my K3S to make them KBPF3A over the weekend.
Well worth the effort as it resulted in seeing transatlantic WSPR signals:-

2016-04-02 05:10  WG2XJM 0.475761-29 0
EN91wr 5 G4FRE   IO82uc  5732km
2016-04-02 04:42WG2XJM   0.475761-28 0   EN91wr 5
G4FREIO82uc  5732km


Antenna was a PA0RDT active whip in the roof space

Dave
G4FRE



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[Elecraft] K3 vs Icon 7300

[Bill]

Anyone able to do a side-by-side? Would be very interesting to hear about.

Bill W2BLC K-Line


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Re: [Elecraft] Raspberry PI 3 and K3

[David Cutter]

A friend recently bought an iRulu tablet for £16 including postage, attached 
a Bluetooth converter for £17, some software for £3.50 and was able to 
control his 817 from inside a tent. I'm looking forward to seeing that on 
Elecraft gear.


David
G3UNA


The trouble with pi-top is that the screen and keyboard, and general fit
and finish aren't that great. If there's Android software that can meet
your needs, you'll get more power, better screen, better construction, and
a better keyboard by picking up an older model Nexus tablet and a matching
Bluetooth keyboard.

My ideal portable rig just for digital modes would be a battery powered 
PX3

with the smallest, cheapest USB keyboard I could find. But, I assume if
Elecraft could have put batteries in the PX3 they would have.


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[Elecraft] KBPF3A Upgrade successful

[Dave]

I modified the two KBPF3 in my K3S to make them KBPF3A over the weekend.
Well worth the effort as it resulted in seeing transatlantic WSPR signals:-

2016-04-02 05:10  WG2XJM 0.475761-29 0
EN91wr 5 G4FRE   IO82uc  5732km
2016-04-02 04:42WG2XJM   0.475761-28 0   EN91wr 5
G4FREIO82uc  5732km 


Antenna was a PA0RDT active whip in the roof space

Dave
G4FRE

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