By your "logic" a few weeks ago when my 100 W K3S started putting out zero watts
it was still in spec, since there isn't any, Right?
And if you want to open another can of worms let's talk about "typical" TX IMD.
On 12/18/2016 10:22 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
On Sun,12/18/2016 2:04 PM, Wes Stewart
On Sun,12/18/2016 2:04 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:
If the manufacturer specifies that the transmitter puts out 100W, and
indeed uses that as a part of the part number on the order sheet, then
it's not unreasonable for the customer to expect 100 W out.
The published spec is 100W typical, with no
It all depends upon the accuracy of the test equipment, power supply, etc.
Many commercial RF power meter/dummy load combos are no more than 20%
accurate.
Elecraft Tech support will help anyone who thinks the power output is low
with those questions.
A better analogy is a Lamborghini spec'd at
I have a surface pro 3 and surface book and neither have issues to which you
refer.
73,
Bill
K9YEQ
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken
Arck
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2016 5:57 PM
To: Rick Braun ; Elecraft
Rick,
The K3 utility wants a com port to connect to, and that com port
needs to be the same as the one for the radio. If you are using a USB
adapter, it declares itself as a com port. Go into device manager and
see which com port your adapter "thinks" it is, and make a note of it.
Use
The issue with the Prolific chipset (or more
accurately, the counterfeit driver issue) is well
known and well documented as affecting Win 7 and later
At 04:16 PM 12/18/2016, Nr4c wrote:
Which KUSB? The older Prolific or the more
recent FTDI? Different drivers. Sent from my
iPhone ...nr4c.
Don thank you for this rapid and complete answer. I'm printing this
email out to include with the KX1 documentation. I'll always be using
either the internal AA cells or a dedicated 12VDC wall wart so I think
I'll just install the mod now and avoid de-soldering.
73 and Seasons' greetings,
Which KUSB? The older Prolific or the more recent FTDI? Different drivers.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On Dec 18, 2016, at 6:43 PM, Rick Braun wrote:
>
> I downloaded the latest K3 utility onto my Surface Pro 4 with Windows 10. My
> K3 is serial 2869, with RS232
My Surface Pro sucks with driver compatibility
issues so perhaps that is your proble.
My "ham" computer runs Win 10, 64 bit and no
problems at all connecting to the K3s with anything
Ken
At 03:43 PM 12/18/2016, Rick Braun wrote:
I downloaded the latest K3 utility onto my
Surface Pro 4
HiNo, it is not 64 vs 32 bit.First thing to do is open up the device manager
and looking at the comport entry. Then unplug the USB to serial device. One of
the comport should disappear. Then plug it in.That will help determine if the
port you are using is correct.Start with that. If you do not
John,
Have you looked a Windows Mixer to see what the output level of the USB
Codec in the K3 might be set at?
Set it to about 75% of full volume.
I don't know what is different about WJST than other data modes, I just
know that there have been many more posts on the reflector about it. It
Rick,
All Windows 10 versions are not created equal. If you have a Win10 full
size computer, try it on that. I have not had any problem with Win10 on
either my laptop or my desktop computers.
On 12/18/2016 6:43 PM, Rick Braun wrote:
I downloaded the latest K3 utility onto my Surface Pro 4
If the rig has an unknown pedigree (passed through many flea market sales)
omitting the last few digits helps prevent unpleasant knocks on the door from
officers wishing to retrieve stolen property.
Ken ke4rg
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On
All,
The serial number of a transceiver offered for sale is an important
parameter, and because the upgrade kits are offered by Elecraft, the
state of those upgrades that have been installed is also important to
the potential buyer.
The rig's serial number for For Sale listings is important
I downloaded the latest K3 utility onto my Surface Pro 4 with Windows 10. My
K3 is serial 2869, with RS232 to USB adapter cable. I downloaded the driver
indicated on the Elecraft site. Problem: I cannot, for the life of me, get the
radio to connect to the computer. Could this be a 32 bit
Stan,
The information in the Power Mod instructions is correct. SOME KX1s
have lower power output than others due to component tolerances. Ni
some cases, this becomes more of a problem with the KXB3080
installation. I would not arbitrarily install those resistors.
Install the KXB3080
I'm building my second fully optioned KX1. I built one a few years ago
with no problem and it was great. I sold it when I bought a KX3. I
missed it so much I just bought myself another one.
But I could use some advice because something doesn't make sense to me.
I opened the 30/80 meter
I own the following:
K2 #5665
K3 #56
P3 #56
73!
Ken Kopp - K0PP
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Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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I totally disagree. If the manufacturer specifies that the transmitter puts out
100W, and indeed uses that as a part of the part number on the order sheet, then
it's not unreasonable for the customer to expect 100 W out.
That's like buying a Lamborghini Huracan LP 610-4 and discovering that
On 12/18/2016 01:13 PM, Kevin - K4VD wrote:
I don't know what someone could do with the serial number of a radio but
who knows these days. That and your date of birth might get all your bank
accounts hacked. (just kidding)
It's probably not a good idea to use your rig's serial number as a
I calibrate all my rigs with the WWV/spectrum display software method
and it's never gotten me in trouble! From my K3s to my TS2000 to my
FTDX3000, they all are dead nuts on thanks to this easiest of methods!
Ken
At 01:22 PM 12/18/2016, ab2tc wrote:
Hi,
Boy, this thread is now incredibly
Alan, according to my memory at least on the KX2 and the KX3 it is the
serial number is build into the programming it's in the menu) I can't
remember if it is on the K3 but trying to change that seriall number would
be really rough
Paul ...KB9AVO
On Dec 18, 2016 2:14 PM, "Alan Bloom"
Hi,
Boy, this thread is now incredibly long and I am not sure it if I want to
risk sticking my neck out with another entry. But I will.
There has been an intense debate for at least the past 8 years as to what
constitutes the "best" way to adjust the reference oscillator to the best
accuracy.
It might be that the first few numbers kind of indicates the series or age
of the device. This seems common when selling many things. It probably
isn't a secret.
I don't know what someone could do with the serial number of a radio but
who knows these days. That and your date of birth might get
Not having a Windows machine, I tried using both fldigi and
cocoaModem which have waterfall displays. Both provided usable
results. Getting close with the computer display and then zero
beating using the procedure in the manual will probably be the
best approach.
73 Bill AE6JV
On 12/16/16
Maybe they're not sure and don't wan to pull the rig out to take a look?
73,
matt W6NIA
On 12/18/2016 12:12 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
Forwarded Message
Subject: [Elecraft] P3 For Sale
Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2016 13:10:36 -0500
From: Joe Word
To:
There are a myriad of ways to do it if you're interested, however don't
underestimate the accuracy you can achieve with your ears and ability to
count when you get the levels equalized. If you count 6 noise peaks in
60 sec, you're within 0.1 Hz.
Something that hasn't been mentioned [and that
Forwarded Message
Subject: [Elecraft] P3 For Sale
Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2016 13:10:36 -0500
From: Joe Word
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> For Sale Serial number 36xx. ...
I've noticed that people almost never list a full serial number when
posting
One part of Amateur Radio is transmitting and receiving. Another part
of Amateur Radio is design and construction of equipment. Yet another
is delving into the concepts of doing things with available
equipment/methods. Traffic handling was once a big activity ... think
"American Radio RELAY
While all of the methods using WWV are excellent, many of us already have the
GPS downloaded 10 MHz signal for the shop and ham shack. I mentioned some time
about using a Video distribution amplifier to pipe the 10 MHz signal around. I
have it at the operating console for any checks I need.
The methods described by Wayne in the K3 or K3S Owner's manuals are
excellent.
I used Method 2 (comparing to WWV's carrier frequency) and easily achieve
less than 1 Hz accuracy. If one needs something in the tenth's of a Hz or
better then more exotic techniques are required (and likely the
Hi Phil and all,
It's not unprecedented. They have had outages before lasting days. I am
aware of the other alternatives (they are all on Elecraft's home page). But
I prefer the marc archive.
AB2TC - Knut
Phil Wheeler-2 wrote
> No, Knut. I just looked: Rather ominous.
>
> There other
Depending on why you want the accuracy, I think you could improve things by
building a phase comparator to "listen" to the radio output frequency
against a local reference. That would allow you to get much closer than
using your ears as a phase detector. That should get you accuracy of a few
% of
For clarification, Knut refers to this archive:
http://marc.info/?l=elecraft which I've found
quite useful.
Phil W7OX
On 12/18/16 9:35 AM, ab2tc wrote:
Hi all,
Does anybody know what's up with marc.info? There have been no posts in
three days.
AB2TC - Knut
???
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On Dec 18, 2016, at 12:35 PM, ab2tc wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Does anybody know what's up with marc.info? There have been no posts in
> three days.
>
> AB2TC - Knut
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context:
>
No, Knut. I just looked: Rather ominous.
There other archives such as
http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/ though
I tend to use the marc archive.
Phil W7OX
On 12/18/16 9:35 AM, ab2tc wrote:
Hi all,
Does anybody know what's up with marc.info? There have been no posts in
three days.
For Sale Elecraft P3-F factory built panadapter with optional P3SVGA
adapter for computer monitor use. No scratches and has not been around
tobacco smoke. Serial number 36xx. Comes with original box, manual and
cable set (2 power cables (from P3 or from power supply), RF cable and data
cable).
Hi Guys;
I really don't mean to show my ignorance, but all this talk about calibration
and power out is good up to a point, but if your signal is off the mark by a
couple Hertz, does it really make any REAL WORLD difference? Even when running
PSK31 surely you can be off the "beam" a Hertz or
Chirps? Mine is more like a slow "whump whump whump", not a chirp.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On Dec 18, 2016, at 7:40 AM, K9ZTV wrote:
>
> The R.L. Drake Company referred to the zeroing or beating indicators as
> "canary chirps," the goal being to slow the
What is your antenna like on 20 meters? Sounds more like antenna than amp.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On Dec 18, 2016, at 6:08 AM, Joe Hutchens AJ8MH-Radio
> wrote:
>
> This is a question I've been wanting to ask...
>
> I've had a KPA500 for 4 years and
Hi all,
Does anybody know what's up with marc.info? There have been no posts in
three days.
AB2TC - Knut
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/marc-info-tp7624763.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
Thanks to all for the explanations.
Brian Denley
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 18, 2016, at 8:46 AM, brian wrote:
>
> Expectations may be too high.
>
> All these WWV methods assume there is no Doppler shift present on the WWV
> signal. Other things to consider:
I have the same 'issue' on 20m my SWR on the hustler 6BTV is 1.4but when I
operate on that band the internal temperature seems to risemuch faster than
other bands and I eventually get a fault.
On 40m I have similar SWR on the digital frequencies and there I don't havean
issue what so ever. I
My antenna is a TA-33-M-WARC. It's flat around 14.150, but goes up fast
as you head toward .350.
I have an FT-950 and FTDX-3000, and both need increased drive to get me
to 500 watts. More concerned about the fault at 1.4:1. Although the two
could be related. Anyway, the auto tuner handles
I figured out my error
Please disregard
JK
On Sat, Dec 17, 2016 at 10:15 PM, John Klewer wrote:
> Learning how to do the macro thing with my K3Sperhaps it is just too
> late at night but I cannot seem to find a reference to the command to set
> "Line In" level
>
>
I think requiring a different drive level is normal for most amplifiers.
The K3S is the only transceiver that I have owned where the output can be
set differently for each band, which is wonderful. My KPA-500 is pretty
tolerant of SWR 2:1 or less however that may depend on the load type. What
is
Expectations may be too high.
All these WWV methods assume there is no Doppler shift present on the
WWV signal. Other things to consider: TCXO drift, synthesizer
limitations and new synthesizer quirks.
During disturbed times, Doppler could be 1 Hz or more.
Unfortunately, the Doppler
Joe,
The gain of any amplifier will not be constant across all bands.
If you are driving with the K3, there is a per band power setting so you
can compensate. See page 27 of the K3 manual.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/18/2016 6:08 AM, Joe Hutchens AJ8MH-Radio wrote:
This is a question I've been
Brian,
The higher the WWV frequency, the possible percentage of error goes
down. One or two Hz is a smaller fraction of 20MHz than at 5MHz.
In the K3, you are calibrating the reference (out of the synthesizer)
rather than calibrating the actual VFO frequency. The actual VFO
frequency is
The R.L. Drake Company referred to the zeroing or beating indicators as "canary
chirps," the goal being to slow the "chirping" until there was a steady tone
indicating you were then dead-on. I still find that the most descriptive way
to tell someone how to identify the pulsing when doing the
This is a question I've been wanting to ask...
I've had a KPA500 for 4 years and I've noticed that 20 meters requires
more drive. Most bands require 30 watts or less, but 20 requires 35-37
for 500 watts out. In the phone portion of 20, an SWR of 1.4:1 WILL
cause a fault. It's just real
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