You might try my approach - I have a shelf supported by 2x4's on which my
K3 sits. The radio, with its bail extended, points directly at my eyes, the
perfect viewing angle. I put a large monitor on the shelf between two K3's
and a laptop on the desk in front of the monitor, giving me lots of
Original message From: Bob McGraw K4TAX
Date: 5/26/19 9:30 PM (GMT-06:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re:
[Elecraft] VERY noisy LCD Monitor. Any Suggestions? Heck, I know of folks
that will go to one of the "big box hardware stores" buy a pressure washer or
paint
I don't know about wrapping the on-panel VFO B knob but since I got a K*Pod
I rarely touch it. I was skeptical about the K*Pod when it first came out,
but now that I finally have one, it seems indispensable. It sits right next
to the keyboard and I use it constantly. For contest running, it's
John,
That implies that all the noise is coming from the PS! I has always
assumed that most of the noise was from the monitor itself!
73s and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resource
On
That is how I buy potentially noisy items as well...
73s and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resource
On 5/26/19 7:30 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
I know it is really aggravating but many
I intentionally purchased a pair of 28" LG Monitors for the ham shack that
had 19 volt wall warts. I knew I would have no problem replacing them with a
linear power supply. A nice big heavy Lamda 10 amp 0 to 20 volt supply
solved the problems.
John k9uwa
> The 28" monitor cost $169.00 about
I know it is really aggravating but many places offer a reasonable
return policy. If they don't, I won't buy. So..l'd buy one, take it
home, use it for a few days, if it is noisy or doesn't do what you
wish..take it back for a refund. Do watch for "in store credit" on
some
Vendors change suppliers all the time, this insures that a once quiet
piece of equipment, stands a good chance of becoming a noisy piece of
equipment in the future, or vice versa. Hence why lists don't always work.
73s and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Technical Specialist
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Just FYI, the old (quiet) 22" Samsung monitor does not use a wall-wart. The
cord goes directly into the body of the monitor. When I bought it in 2008, I
think it cost about $350.00.
The 28" monitor cost $169.00 about two years ago, and uses a 19V wall wart
supply. I bought it for some 3d CAD
Jim,
Please ID the offending unit for future reference.
73 de Ben W4SC
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
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I wish there was a list somewhere of monitors that are currently in
production and easily purchasable that are known to be quiet on the RF
front. I've used the remediation suggestions offered in this thread, and
have found them to help but not cure the symptoms I see. Buying and
trying
A little late commenting, however: If the power supply is external -
replace it. I had a 10" monitor that ran from a 12 VDC wallwart - it was
very noisy. Shut the monitor off and it was quiet. So, I brought power
to it from my main 12 VDC line and the noise was gone. &^*%$ cheap
wallwarts!!
Well, I tried to post my solution three times, and I guess it didn't work, so
I'm trying a new subject.
I remembered that I had a 10-11 year-old, 22" Samsung monitor in the closet. It
still has a good picture, and it is VERY quiet. so, that's my solution (for
now, anyway).
Thanks for all of
Forgot to add. Slit tennis ball on a seam and insert weight. I use 22 pennies.
Close slit with hot melt glue.
Jim ab3cv
On May 26, 2019, at 6:37 PM, Bill Johnson wrote:
Jim, I have done that. I am going to use my bow one more time and if that has
any glitches will try the Sherrill
Jim, I have done that. I am going to use my bow one more time and if that has
any glitches will try the Sherrill launcher. Not cheap but is commercial and
well liked.
73,
Bill
K9YEQ
https://wrj-tech.com/
-Original Message-
From: Jim Miller
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 4:05 PM
To:
Jim,
I feel like a newbie. Only 56 years for me. But I agree. When I haul the K3
to KP2M the only knobs I use when I am on frequency are the AF gain and RIT
for those who are off frequency.
N2TK, Tony
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On
Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent:
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Other than coming up with a fix is just buy a "good" monitor and
retire the old one.
I have been using two 21-inch Dell monitors bought circa 2008-2010
with no noise problems. Computers are maybe two foot from the radio.
Since going to shielded cat-5 computer wiring have few birdies on the
Always let the weight drop and remove it at ground level before retrieving the
line. Highly recommend slick line,tennis ball, and pneumatic launcher with 60
lb spiderwire on an open faced spinning real.
Jim ab3cv
On May 26, 2019, at 4:36 PM, Bill Johnson wrote:
I have had my best success
Thanks to everyone who responded to my post, and to Jim k9YC for sharing the
two .pdf links.
Maybe now I can make some headway - or buy a new monitor...
73,
Jim KO5V
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I have had my best success with using a bow and arrow. I drill into the nock
and have either a fishing pole and line attached or mount the real on the bow.
Open real works best as it creates the least amount of drag, resistance to the
arrow. Do check the flight path carefully before letting
Jim KO5V
I have a similar problematic LCD monitor. Mine is 27” by Nixeus - the least
expensive 27 inch monitor I could find. Two kinds of problems include
broadband noise of about 2 to 3 dB across 20 meters and a specific frequency
noise of about 3 kHz wide at about 14.250 MHz. Like
On 5/26/2019 12:15 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:
I have a ~24" LCD monitor that I want to use for logging, to display my
panadapter, etc. Unfortunately, it is very noisy on HF.
This is a very common problem. There are (at least) two heads to the
snake. The most common, and easiest to fix, is the power
I thought the round-headed Charlie Brown had thoroughly researched the
"Trees Eating Things" problem ...
73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County
On 5/26/2019 12:04 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:
I was on a 50 mile Scout trek and two Scouts got a bear-bagging rope with a
rock tied
If the K3 is too lightweight, one could always go retro. My SX28
weighed in right at 100 lbs and it was only a receiver. The DX-100 was
yet another 100. On the serious side, I'm approaching 79 next month and
I can still manage the K3 buttons although I wouldn't want them any
smaller or
I bought a 12 ounce throw weight for arborists from SherrillTree.com but I
didn't get any slick line (what the pros call it.) Beware if you use
SherrillTree; once they have your address, you'll never be shut of them.
On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 3:04 PM Walter Underwood
wrote:
> I was on a 50 mile
My experience with some cheaper LCD monitors is that the backlight
brightness is controlled by a badly designed PWM circuit. With my parents'
Samsung, the noise is even audible if you're sitting next to it.
The only solution I've found, if indeed this is what's giving you trouble,
is to turn the
Bill,
Yes, as long as the KPA100 is physically connected to the base K2, its
wattmeter will be used for power control. The base K2 provides power to
the critical circuits and MCU in the KPA100 even though the PA is turned
off in the menu or not powered via the APP connector.
You MUST
Good afternoon,
I have a ~24" LCD monitor that I want to use for logging, to display my
panadapter, etc. Unfortunately, it is very noisy on HF. When It goes to sleep,
the noise goes away. This is even more irritating because I now have the
K2/computer/logging, etc, all working together. I've
On 5/26/2019 11:55 AM, Rick Tavan wrote:
I never
had trouble operating the K3 and its menu structure was logical, rarely
needed, and self-documenting. The new K4 screen is plenty large enough for
me and comparable to many current, competitive radios'. It can also be
blown up to as large as you
I was on a 50 mile Scout trek and two Scouts got a bear-bagging rope with a
rock tied to it stuck in a tree. They pulled as hard as they could and it shot
back and hit one of them in the neck. Luckily, it only hit soft tissue, but he
was in shock and couldn’t turn his head for a couple of days.
Wow. Your preference seems to be in a minority, Harry, although I have to
admit that my opinion is subjective and based mainly on what I've read on
this reflector which may well be biased by folks like me who *like* the K3.
I think Elecraft retained in the K4 many of the design points that made
Wow. Your preference seems to be in a minority, Harry, although I have to
admit that my opinion is subjective and based mainly on what I've read on
this reflector which may well be biased by folks like me who *like* the K3.
I think Elecraft retained in the K4 many of the design points that made
So, if you turn the KPA100 off via the menu, the KPA100 SWR bridge is still
used in any case?
I’ll plan to add 50-100 kOhm resistors across the output, as you suggested. I’m
also going to re-do the calibration of both SWR meters, just make sure no
damage was done to the KAT100.
> On May 25,
Wayne's problem with a tree eating his wire reminds me of an incident some
years ago when I was attempting to get an antenna halyard over a tall oak
tree. I used some braided nylon cord with a probable breaking strain of
several hundred pounds, which was attached to a drilled golf ball.
My
On 5/24/2019 5:00 PM, hwhi...@maine.rr.com wrote:
I suggest you double the size of the radio and change your design criteria.
This is exactly the opposite of how I feel about radios -- I'll be 78 in
the fall, but I'm still an active guy dragging my gear to portable
setups, and my shack is a
(Sorry but could not resist)
I have my K3 with TCXO03 and EXREF referenced to 10-MHz (OCXO +/- 5
E-12) and check it with my EIP538 Counter with ext ref to a +/- 5
E-11 Rubidium.
Then transmit and check frequency - done! At 28-MHz I am usually
within 2-Hz (and obviously that gets better at
In addition to my prior question, I've noticed an oddity when using macros,
and wonder if anyone has a resolution:
When I recall frequency/mode data from a channel, sometimes (but not
always) the cwt indicator will pop up. Also every now and then rit will
turn on. Neither of these seem to be
A moderate bandwidth like 400 Hz will also help provide good decoding.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/26/2019 9:51 AM, Nr4c wrote:
First, press SPOT to “ zero-beat” the signal. Then adjust the threshold so that
the CWT bar is flashing with the signal. This should work.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
Good advice!!
I'll redo the procedure after the radio has been in use for an hour. I don't
usually have the LCD illuminated because of the lighting at my desk - does the
display contribute that much heat?
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On
Behalf Of Mike
First, press SPOT to “ zero-beat” the signal. Then adjust the threshold so that
the CWT bar is flashing with the signal. This should work.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On May 25, 2019, at 11:03 PM, Ignacy wrote:
>
> I am trying to use the CW decoder in K3 to help copy fast exchanges.
Don
Thanks
On 2019/05/26 21:25, Don Wilhelm wrote:
The KAT100 ATU needs the control signals from the base K2 to turn on
and function.
So the answer is that it will only function with the K2.
Yoou might consider the KAT500.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/26/2019 5:39 AM, Yoshida Akira wrote:
Hi all
The KAT100 ATU needs the control signals from the base K2 to turn on and
function.
So the answer is that it will only function with the K2.
Yoou might consider the KAT500.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/26/2019 5:39 AM, Yoshida Akira wrote:
Hi all
Does KAT100 ATU work with transceiver other than K2 ?
Hi all
Does KAT100 ATU work with transceiver other than K2 ?
Thanks in advance
--
73 de aki
JA1NLX
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