I just received this kit which increases the current available at the 12V DC
Out jack on the K3 to drive a P3 with P3SVGA. The kit consists of replacing
a surface mount diode, a through hole fuse and through hole choke. Elecraft
sent me this kit without my asking. :)
I have not installed it yet
Lou Voerman W2ROW wrote
I just received this kit which increases the current available at the 12V
DC Out jack on the K3 to drive a P3 with P3SVGA. The kit consists of
replacing a surface mount diode, a through hole fuse and through hole
choke. Elecraft sent me this kit without my asking
The good news:
Elecraft got some publicity in episode 9A of HamRadioNow. Don, W3FPR, and
several of us had a great time manning the Elecraft booth at RARSFest in
Raleigh in early April. We met many people and Don's KX3 generated a lot of
interest.
The bad news:
For some totally unknown reason,
The conversion of order number to date/time is in UTC. My kit just shipped
and I ordered at 13:25 (UTC) on 12/28/2011 (08:25 EST). You ordered at 13:58
CST on the same date, that would put your order at 19:58 UTC, about six
hours after the time for currently shipping kits.
73,
Lou W2ROW
bles
You could also try moving the GFCI to the panel box by installing a GFCI
breaker in the panel box and replacing the GFCI outlet with a normal one.
This might solve the problem by increasing the distance between the RFI
source and the breaker. Also the shielding provided by the panel box may
help.
See the KX3 Kit Assembly Manual page 5. The third mat listed is a Desco.
Lou W2ROW
AL7BA - Jim Shaw wrote
I know I've seen a couple e-mails, one fairly recently, on one of the
Elecraft reflectors I subscribe to that referenced an Elecraft doc, I
believe, that listed three ESD mats that
Bruce,
I had the same symptoms. In my case it was caused by a broken solder
connection where the power jack attaches to the CP board. I removed the CP
board, heated the connection and added solder to it. The problem is solved.
The power jack is a surface mount device and as such had very little
I did the mod and yes currently there are SMD parts at the locations of the
four devices you need to replace. I had no trouble heating the existing
devices to remove them. I also had no problem soldering the new devices in
place. It was normal two pad SMD stuff, nothing special.
For reference I
Look on the Elecraft web site under manuals then KX3. There is an
instruction sheet for the MH3 posted there which shows a schematic.
Lou W2ROW
Brian Lodahl wrote
Hi,
[ Reposting in seperate thread ]
For the 4-pin mic pinout for the MH-3 microphone, it is listed that the
PTT line
Gary,
In the KPA100 I just finished building C26 was a light brown ceramic disc.
It was marked with CO above and 33 below. The higher voltage cap of the
same value (C5F) was blue and a bit larger. YMMV.
Lou W2ROW
Gary G7USC wrote
Hi All,
I need a bit of help identifying C26. Can any one
Hi - this may be obvious and if so - sorry.
You need two RF cables (plus the antenna cable itself) to make this work.
First a BNC to BNC cable goes from the K2 ANT1 jack to the AUX RF jack on
the rear panel of the KAT100 this provides an RF path from the K2 to the
KPA100 via an internal (to the
I have an extra K2/10 with pretty much all options except DSP. I also have a
9 year old grandson who at least has the potential to be interested in ham
radio. It occurred to me that I could set up the K2 in his room at home (he
lives a couple of miles away) and let him do some SWL.
I would need
Don Wilhelm-4 wrote
Lou,
I would suggest the best way to disable transmit for your situation is
to disable the 8T signal - I would suggest removing Q1 from the Control
Board. For added protection to the K2 transmit stages, I would also
suggest removing the DC voltage from RF Board Q7
tomb18 wrote
Any comments?
I have to wait, since I'm out of town for two weeks
I got it today. Install took about 15 minutes (will be longer if you need to
update to the new firmware). I need to play with it some more but it appears
to work as advertised.
Lou W2ROW
--
View this message
There is an article on the Elecraft website:
Milliwatting with the K2
http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/milliwatting_with_the_k2.htm
Lou W2ROW
andyatd wrote
I've been searching for the best methods to modify a K2 for QRPp levels
but the pages recommended seem to have expired accounts.
Any
There was a discussion of this topic on the KX3 group. The dot and dash
paddles (pins 3 and 4) need to make contact with ground (pin 1). The
original version of the KXPD3 had a design flaw on the circuit board which
followed the diagram in the published KXPD3 schematic dated March 2012. This
Chip - I am in for a three board sheet for $37.
Thanks for picking this up.
Lou W2ROW
Chip Stratton wrote
Thanks for pointing out my error Dave. I wasn't looking closely enough,
and
that makes it much better. I'll modify my proposal:
I'll order three sheets for $110, so $37 each sheet
I recently went in on a group buy for the MAB project. I received three
boards and only need two for my K2's. I did assemble and test the third
board if anyone is interested. It does not include the Internal Mic Adapter
but you could add that yourself by removing 4 zero ohm resistors and adding
It has a new home - thanks.
Lou W2ROW
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Assembled-K2-Misc-Accessory-Board-available-tp7590651p7590654.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
I received the 2 meter module and installed it Friday afternoon. After
installation, it did not work - no transmit or receive. I opened the KX3 up
and discovered that the local oscillator cable had been pulled out from the
coax connector at the 2M module end. I think that when I first reassembled
I have one quick question about the 6 pole filter. Will it have an offset
like the 5 pole filters or will the offset be zero like the 8 pole filters?
Thanks,
Lou W2ROW
--
View this message in context:
Jim,
You definitely need to contact Elecraft support. I had exactly the same
problem with a K3S I built recently and the KPA3A was bad. Elecraft replaced
it and all is well now.
Lou W2ROW
--
View this message in context:
I am building a newly acquired K2. Everything was fine through stage 1
assembly and checkout. Upon reassembling after stage two the main tuning
encoder no longer works (turning the knob does absolutely nothing). I
contacted Elecraft support and Gary sent me a new encoder assembly. I
received it
Ted,
Elecraft did publish an add on circuit to drive an amp from the K2. The bad
news is that I can not find it on their new website. Tom Hammond N0SS (SK)
designed a PC Board for an amp keying circuit which is no longer available.
However he published the schematic which you can find here:
N0SS
I just received a new KXPD2 paddle from Elecraft. In the envelope was a
loose, extra spring with no documentation as to its purpose. Does anyone
know if the extra spring is the same as the original or is it some kind of
tension adjustment like the three different springs that came with the
KXPD3?
I am expecting nothing from the list. I am attempting to inform the list
members that at least under certain circumstances Elecraft may charge your
credit card well in advance of shipping. Obviously anyone is free to do
anything they want with this information including completely ignore it.
Lou
Hi Don,
As I stated, they did this twice so I suspect more than a glitch.
I did try to talk to sales and received several excuses but no definitive
answers.
Lou W2ROW
--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft
Let me start by saying that I am a long term Elecraft customer. I have built
4 K2s and a K1. I also own a K3, K3s, KX3, KX2 and other Elecraft gear. I
helped out for several years as a volunteer in the Elecraft booth at the
RARS hamfest here in Raleigh.
Two recent experiences involving
I heard from Elecraft Sales and will attempt to communicate what I was told.
Sales is using a new shopping cart platform which allows them limited time
to capture payment information. As a result, it seems that they are unable
to defer payment in the case of a backorder, so orders are charged
I am not a high CW op by any stretch but I think the K1EL Winkeyer (USB)
interface is used a lot. It is supported by most ham radio software (like
HRD). It relieves the computer from doing the CW timing which can be
unreliable depending on load.
Lou W2ROW
--
Sent from:
Hi,
Did you do the resistance check on page 76 of the latest manual. It checks
for a short from the collector of Q7 or Q8 to ground after installing the
heat sink. If there is a short there, the manual suggests the most likely
cause.
Lou W2ROW
--
Sent from:
I have successfully used an Arduino to talk to a W2. Like Bruce I could not
get it to work with SoftwareSerial, only the hardware Serial port would
work. I have it working with an Uno, a Nano and a Mega all using the Serial
port. Lest you are tempted to use the hardware serial ports Serial1,
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