Re: [Elecraft] K2 KBT2 option question
Thanks, Don. I know the question was almost impossibly naive. I backtracked through the instructions, and found no mention of which position the switch should be in. This omission, and the fact that S1 mentioned in the manual has now become the 12V jumper, were the only two steps that gave me pause as I worked through the installation. Many thanks. Mark AE6RT On Wed, Aug 1, 2018 at 5:59 PM Don Wilhelm wrote: > Mark, > > The switch disconnects the K2 power input from the battery, so you must > have the switch in the ON position for the battery to be in circuit for > testing/operation (also for charging the battery). If you are using the > power supply for charging the internal battery, increase the power > supply to at least 14.1 volts (14.3 volts is better). > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 8/1/2018 12:05 AM, Mark Petrovic wrote: > > I'm installing the KBT2 internal battery option on my K2 s/n 7809. > > > > In what position should the K2 rear panel "Int. Battery" switch be for > the > > Connecting and Testing of the KBT2, On or Off? I'm assuming, On, but > > wanted to double check. > > > -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K2 KBT2 option question
I'm installing the KBT2 internal battery option on my K2 s/n 7809. In what position should the K2 rear panel "Int. Battery" switch be for the Connecting and Testing of the KBT2, On or Off? I'm assuming, On, but wanted to double check. Thanks. Mark AE6RT -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Connecting a long wire antenna to the K2 with the KAT2 tuner
Found the answer to my question: https://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/msg30186.html On Fri, Jul 27, 2018 at 11:03 AM Mark Petrovic wrote: > Oh, I see. Thanks, Don. > > The GND is used for earth-grounding the radio? > > On Fri, Jul 27, 2018 at 11:02 AM Don Wilhelm > wrote: > >> Mark, >> >> While that might work, remember that the counterpoise(s) are a part of >> the antenna, and not a "ground". It is better to use a BNC to binding >> post adapter and connect the counterpoise to the black binding post - no >> dependency on conductivity through the enclosure. >> The BNC jack shells do not have a dependable low resistance path to the >> GND post. >> >> 73, >> Don W3FPR >> >> On 7/27/2018 11:38 AM, Mark Petrovic wrote: >> > Hi. I suspect this is obvious to most readers, but to use a long wire >> > antenna with the K2 with the KAT2 option, one connects the antenna to >> the >> > ANT1 center conductor, and the counterpoises to the GND terminal? >> > >> > Thanks. >> > Mark >> > AE6RT >> > >> > > > -- > Mark > -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Connecting a long wire antenna to the K2 with the KAT2 tuner
Oh, I see. Thanks, Don. The GND is used for earth-grounding the radio? On Fri, Jul 27, 2018 at 11:02 AM Don Wilhelm wrote: > Mark, > > While that might work, remember that the counterpoise(s) are a part of > the antenna, and not a "ground". It is better to use a BNC to binding > post adapter and connect the counterpoise to the black binding post - no > dependency on conductivity through the enclosure. > The BNC jack shells do not have a dependable low resistance path to the > GND post. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 7/27/2018 11:38 AM, Mark Petrovic wrote: > > Hi. I suspect this is obvious to most readers, but to use a long wire > > antenna with the K2 with the KAT2 option, one connects the antenna to the > > ANT1 center conductor, and the counterpoises to the GND terminal? > > > > Thanks. > > Mark > > AE6RT > > > -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Connecting a long wire antenna to the K2 with the KAT2 tuner
Hi. I suspect this is obvious to most readers, but to use a long wire antenna with the K2 with the KAT2 option, one connects the antenna to the ANT1 center conductor, and the counterpoises to the GND terminal? Thanks. Mark AE6RT -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K2 SSB microphone configuration
I am installing the KSB2 SSB Adapter into my K2 S/N 7809. I have the Elecraft MH4 microphone, which includes 8 jumpers and one 5.6K resistor. My KSB2 manual shows the configuration for the Elecraft MH2 and MD2, and I've read in the MH4 PDF manual that it has the same configuration as the MH2. However, I am confused about the jumpers and the P1 microphone configuration pin set. I believe I am to install all 8 jumpers (one joining AF to pin1, PTT to pin2, etc.) *and* the 5.6K resistor across pins 1 and 6. Is that correct? Thanks. Mark AE6RT -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] About a two-phase install of the KSB2 option on a modern K2
I have a couple days of available bench time this week before I go on vacation. I want to take my new K2 S/N 7809 with me, but use the time between now and then to begin installation of the KSB2 SSB option. I want to stop at a point (if there is one) where CW transmit and receive still function. If in the KSB2 installation steps I stop after the *Initial Test * step 5, page 15 of the KSB2 manual "Verify that the K2 performs the same on CW receive as it did prior to installing the SSB adapter. The filters you had set up should sound the same, and there should be no loss of signal strength." can I still use the radio for CW send/receive until I can resume the rest of the SSB option installation? Thanks. Mark AE6RT -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 external speaker hole
Thanks, Don. Yes, I found I had to ream the existing hole *very* little, maybe one or two 1/100 of an inch, for the jack to pass through without forcing it. The difference did not feel like extra paint; it felt like the hole was in fact just a bit too small. On Thu, Jul 19, 2018 at 8:49 AM Don Wilhelm wrote: > Mark, > > The jack *should* fit through the hole, but I also know that it does not > with the jack supplied. > So ream out the hole in the top cover. I use a thin bladed knife, but a > drill bit or a proper reamer will work. > You only have to take a little metal from the inside of the hole. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 7/19/2018 11:00 AM, Mark Petrovic wrote: > > In the top cover for my K2 S/N/ 7809, the external speaker hole is way > too > > small for the jack to pass through. Is it the design intent of the K2 > that > > this jack be screwed in? Or should it pass through without forcing it? > Or > > does it matter? > -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] My finished K2
At long last, K2 S/N 7809 is built. https://photos.app.goo.gl/CjwFL9XagixsYHmZ8 Many thanks for all the positive feedback I got here, the many questions that were answered, and to Elecraft for an amazing kit. And, of course, to Don W3FPR for providing unwavering expert guidance when I needed it. I built a NorCal40A years ago, and more recently a K1 a couple years ago. I always thought the K2 was too much radio for me, but I'm glad I took the plunge. With these three rigs, I own pieces of history. 73, Mark AE6RT -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K2 external speaker hole
In the top cover for my K2 S/N/ 7809, the external speaker hole is way too small for the jack to pass through. Is it the design intent of the K2 that this jack be screwed in? Or should it pass through without forcing it? Or does it matter? Thanks. Mark AE6RT -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K2 minor build caveat: C135 in the transmitter area
I'm in the home stretch of building my K2, and wanted to point out
something that might help others as they assemble the transmitter portion
of the radio.
C135 ("103"), which sits adjacent to the 2D heat sink fastener, needs to be
installed as close to the board as possible. Check that it is lower than
the 2D fastener, otherwise the heat sink panel may not make good contact
with Q7 and Q8. My C135 sat a tiny bit higher than the 2D block; I ended
up shaving a very thin layer of the capacitor body with a razor blade so
that it cleared the 2D fastener.
Mark
AE6RT
--
Mark
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 C22 capacitor photos
Thanks, Don. I believe I found it. Or them, rather. I found two marked "030" in a bag labelled "E530065", "2.7pF". The K2 RF board inventory says C22 is this very same part number E530065. Would you please confirm that the 2.7pF parts labelled "030" are indeed C22 for the RF board? Many thanks. On Tue, Jun 19, 2018 at 7:42 AM Don Wilhelm wrote: > Mark, > > I do not have a photo, but it is either a disc ceramic capacitor marked > with "3.3", or it is a monolythic capacitor which may be marked either > '3.3' or '339'. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 6/19/2018 9:13 AM, Mark Petrovic wrote: > > Does anyone have a hi-res photo of what C22 (3.3pF) for the K2 (s/n 7809) > > looks like? My inventory says I have it, but now I'm not so sure - or, I > > cannot identify it again. > -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K2 C22 capacitor photos
Does anyone have a hi-res photo of what C22 (3.3pF) for the K2 (s/n 7809) looks like? My inventory says I have it, but now I'm not so sure - or, I cannot identify it again. Thanks. Mark AE6RT -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 L34 variable inductor screw repair
Thank you, Don. I just finished the replacement. I absolutely dread desoldering, but it gave me an opportunity to use the $25 desoldering iron with an in-line solder-sucker I had in reserve. I removed the solder from the pins, flush-cut the pins on the solder-side, and solder-sucked a coupke more times. I then gently rocked the part side to side on the component side of the board until it broke free. > On Jun 17, 2018, at 11:18 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > > Mark, > > The only way I know of to do it reliably is to replace the inductor. > I suspect you stripped the threads on the inside of the inductor core and not > the slug. So just bite the bullet and replace the inductor. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > >> On 6/17/2018 11:41 AM, Mark Petrovic wrote: >> While performing the IF alignment on my K2 s/n 7809, I must have backed the >> slug on L34 too far up against the can. Now the slug doesn't move when I >> turn it one way or the other (at some point I was able to advance it >> downward to the 1/2 way point). Is there any way to re-index the slug onto >> its threads so I can avoid replacing L34 and the desoldering that goes with >> it? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K2 L34 variable inductor screw repair
While performing the IF alignment on my K2 s/n 7809, I must have backed the slug on L34 too far up against the can. Now the slug doesn't move when I turn it one way or the other (at some point I was able to advance it downward to the 1/2 way point). Is there any way to re-index the slug onto its threads so I can avoid replacing L34 and the desoldering that goes with it? Thanks. Mark AE6RT -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO CW alignment question
I had an internal dialogue with myself as to whether I should reveal what the problem was, and concluded that I should. Maybe it'll help someone else. I was pushing the wrong button to activate CW RV. For some reason, my brain said I should push and hold the button below (XIT). Problem solved; rig works just fine. Don, thanks. Sorry to put you through that, but I did read your notes above and correlate them with the schematic. Something told me to double check the button labels. Glad it did. Mark AE6RT On Sun, Jun 10, 2018 at 4:43 PM Don Wilhelm wrote: > Mark, > > Analyzing the switch matrix is an iterative process > The first thing to do is to determine which wrong responses are being > sent, and for that you must refer to the schematic. In your case of the > REV button and the STP 60 display, the hold of the REV button is > bringing up the PF1 display. > Check the TAP function of the same button (AGC) to see if it brings up > the RIT announciator (I think it will). > If so, it means that the D1 and D2 lines are somehow being activated at > the same time. > Your first check would be to see if there is continuity between pins 12 > and 13 of U2. Also check for continuity to ground for both of those > lines. If you find U2 pins 12 and 13 shorted together, look for the > reason - a solder splash making a bridge or a bit of wire lead stuck > between the pins, look top and bottom of the board. > That is how the process goes - as I indicated, it is not 'nice'. > > Hopefully those two buttons are the only ones involved. > At worst, it means removing the pushbuttons and replacing them with > new. If it comes to that, clip the leads on the switch side close to > the switch body and remove the leads one at a time, then troubleshoot > the board. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 6/10/2018 7:15 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote: > > Thanks, Don. > > > > Would you mind outlining the approach for analyzing the front panel > switch matrix? > > > > > > > > -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO CW alignment question
Don, thank for the excellent guidance. I'll begin the debug process. By the way, I have eliminated spurious contact between the encoder board and control board, as I debugged that some weeks ago: https://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/msg219585.html. There is now room between the boards such that the plastic packing material you mention moves freely about without friction. This spurious contact possibility was one of the first things I checked today when the "c" indicator would not light. On Sun, Jun 10, 2018 at 4:43 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Mark, > > Analyzing the switch matrix is an iterative process > The first thing to do is to determine which wrong responses are being > sent, and for that you must refer to the schematic. In your case of the > REV button and the STP 60 display, the hold of the REV button is bringing > up the PF1 display. > Check the TAP function of the same button (AGC) to see if it brings up the > RIT announciator (I think it will). > If so, it means that the D1 and D2 lines are somehow being activated at > the same time. > Your first check would be to see if there is continuity between pins 12 > and 13 of U2. Also check for continuity to ground for both of those > lines. If you find U2 pins 12 and 13 shorted together, look for the reason > - a solder splash making a bridge or a bit of wire lead stuck between the > pins, look top and bottom of the board. > That is how the process goes - as I indicated, it is not 'nice'. > > Hopefully those two buttons are the only ones involved. > At worst, it means removing the pushbuttons and replacing them with new. > If it comes to that, clip the leads on the switch side close to the switch > body and remove the leads one at a time, then troubleshoot the board. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > > On 6/10/2018 7:15 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote: > >> Thanks, Don. >> >> Would you mind outlining the approach for analyzing the front panel >> switch matrix? >> >> >> >> > -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO CW alignment question
Thanks, Don. Would you mind outlining the approach for analyzing the front panel switch matrix? > On Jun 10, 2018, at 3:55 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > > Mark, > > OK on that. Since you have the new encoder board, it could be touching the > pins on the back of the Control Board which can cause all kinds of "strange > happenings". > First step is to flush cut (diagonal cutters will not do the job) the pins on > the encoder board (cut right down into the solder). Then flush cut the leads > on the back of the Control Board where it can contact the encoder board. > As an added protection measure, put a piece of card stock (business card of > part of a QSL card) between the encoder board and the Control Board - or > better yet a flat piece of plastic, like that used in many shrink wrapped > packages from the store. > > Then see if the behavior settles down. > If it does not, you will have to find the problem in the Front Panel switch > matrix (not an easy task). > > 73, > Don W3FPR > >> On 6/10/2018 6:44 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote: >> Don, the soldering on RP1 is very clean, top (viewed from the side of the >> board with a light and magnifying glass) and bottom. RP1 is aligned >> correctly, and I've verified that it is the correct part for this location. >> >> Worth mentioning is that the rubber spacer that installs onto the >> bottom-side of the board in the corner nearest pin 10 of RP1 is attached >> with a small drop of super glue (the original adhesive on the rubber pad >> failed, as the pad fell off during casual handling of the board). My >> understanding is that this cyanoacrylate super glue is non-conductive, nor >> does the spacer w/glue bridge any solder pads. I've not inspected the front >> panel board from the top, as this would require unsoldering the 4 leads >> holding the encoder board to the front panel board. >> >> > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO CW alignment question
Don, the soldering on RP1 is very clean, top (viewed from the side of the board with a light and magnifying glass) and bottom. RP1 is aligned correctly, and I've verified that it is the correct part for this location. Worth mentioning is that the rubber spacer that installs onto the bottom-side of the board in the corner nearest pin 10 of RP1 is attached with a small drop of super glue (the original adhesive on the rubber pad failed, as the pad fell off during casual handling of the board). My understanding is that this cyanoacrylate super glue is non-conductive, nor does the spacer w/glue bridge any solder pads. I've not inspected the front panel board from the top, as this would require unsoldering the 4 leads holding the encoder board to the front panel board. Mark On Sun, Jun 10, 2018 at 2:48 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Mark, > > That indicates you are not getting the right button response. > Check the Front Panel Board. My immediate guess is that you have a > soldering problem on RP1, or that RP1 is inserted backwards. That is one of > the R-Paks that MUST be inserted in the proper orientation. Look at the > board silkscreen for the pin 1 location, and look for the dot at the end of > the R-Pak - they must be aligned. > > You could also have a solder splash somewhere on the FP board. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 6/10/2018 5:31 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote: > >> Don, thanks. >> >> When I exit CAL FIL, and press and hold CW RV, I see "ST P 0.60" >> displayed (with the B RIT and XIT annunciators on) whether in CW, USB or >> LSB mode. >> >> On Sun, Jun 10, 2018 at 2:21 PM, Don Wilhelm > <mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>> wrote: >> > > -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO CW alignment question
Don, thanks. When I exit CAL FIL, and press and hold CW RV, I see "ST P 0.60" displayed (with the B RIT and XIT annunciators on) whether in CW, USB or LSB mode. On Sun, Jun 10, 2018 at 2:21 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Mark, > > Get out of the CAL FIL menu and see if it does toggle the bar when in CW > mode. In SSB mode, it should toggle between LSB and USB. > If it works in SSB mode, but not in CW, you may have a display fault that > is not showing the bar - that is a different problem. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > > On 6/10/2018 4:44 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote: > >> Thanks, Don. In CAL FIL mode, holding CW RV does not toggle a bar over >> the "c". All my calibrations and tests have gone swimmingly til now. Any >> suggestions on where to start to troubleshoot this? Is there another way >> to verify if the toggle is being honored (could the over-bar LCD element be >> bad?)? >> > > -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO CW alignment question
Thanks, Don. In CAL FIL mode, holding CW RV does not toggle a bar over the "c". All my calibrations and tests have gone swimmingly til now. Any suggestions on where to start to troubleshoot this? Is there another way to verify if the toggle is being honored (could the over-bar LCD element be bad?)? Mark On Sun, Jun 10, 2018 at 12:55 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Mark, > > The CW reverse is indicated by a bar over the "c" to the right of the > display. Holding the REV button should toggle it. > Likewise, that same button will toggle between USB and LSB. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > > On 6/10/2018 3:37 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote: > >> I am performing the first alignment and test of the RF board of my K2 S/N >> 7809. On page 66 of the manual, I'm instructed to read page 91 of the >> operating instructions to get familiar with the CAL FIL settings. Page 91 >> says to work through the CAL FIL examples on page 93, wherein we work >> through setting the BFO frequencies. One of the steps says to hold CW RV >> to switch to CW Reverse. When I press and hold CW RV, should I expect >> some >> visual element to change to indicate that I am in this 'reverse' mode? I >> don't see any visual indication. How do I know the press and hold of CW >> RV >> was effective? >> > -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K2 BFO CW alignment question
I am performing the first alignment and test of the RF board of my K2 S/N 7809. On page 66 of the manual, I'm instructed to read page 91 of the operating instructions to get familiar with the CAL FIL settings. Page 91 says to work through the CAL FIL examples on page 93, wherein we work through setting the BFO frequencies. One of the steps says to hold CW RV to switch to CW Reverse. When I press and hold CW RV, should I expect some visual element to change to indicate that I am in this 'reverse' mode? I don't see any visual indication. How do I know the press and hold of CW RV was effective? Thank you. Mark AE6RT -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K2 RP3 thermistor board assembly
I ran across this clever means of holding the 8 3/4" leads in place during soldering that others may benefit from: https://2e0dfu.files.wordpress.com/2016/09/20160921_090901.jpg It allows super-clean, low profile pads on the backside of the board https://2e0dfu.files.wordpress.com/2016/09/20160922_084237.jpg Thanks to John/2E0DFU for posting his K2 assembly pictures. Mark AE6RT -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 VFO encoder / control board close fit
Don, thank you. With some copper braid solder wick to remove a bit of the fillets on the joints on both boards, and after using my new Xcelite 170M shears, the control board can be secured without an insulating sheet between it and the front panel board. I may still use that sheet of plastic there, but the new configuration is *much* better than when I first wrote. Mark AE6RT On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 7:27 AM, Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com> wrote: > Mark, > > The instructions packed in the encoder envelope tell you to flush cut not > only the pins on the encoder board, but also the leads on the control board > that might contact it. > > If you do not have flush (or shear) cutters, and want inexpensive ones, > look for Xcelite (or Lufkin or Cooper) 170M shear cutters. They can often > be found in your local Home Depot. > > In addition to flush cutting the boards, put something on the back of the > encoder board - fish paper would be best, but a piece of flat plastic cut > from one of the many plastic wrapped consumer products would be good. > Paper or electrical tape will eventually puncture. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > > On 5/5/2018 10:58 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote: > >> While performing the initial power on tests on my K2 S/N 7809, I noticed >> that the VFO knob/display tuning test produced a sluggish, intermittent, >> or >> no change in display when I turned the knob in either direction. >> >> I proceeded to remove the two chassis screws securing the control board to >> the front panel board. This allowed the control board to relax and >> slightly fall away from the front panel board, toward the back of the >> radio, opening up the space between the front panel encoder board and the >> control board. The display was at once responsive to knob turning on all >> RATE settings. >> >> -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K2 VFO encoder / control board close fit
While performing the initial power on tests on my K2 S/N 7809, I noticed that the VFO knob/display tuning test produced a sluggish, intermittent, or no change in display when I turned the knob in either direction. I proceeded to remove the two chassis screws securing the control board to the front panel board. This allowed the control board to relax and slightly fall away from the front panel board, toward the back of the radio, opening up the space between the front panel encoder board and the control board. The display was at once responsive to knob turning on all RATE settings. Next, I slipped a piece of paper between the encoder board and the control board, then reattached the control board to the front panel board with the chassis screws. The display continued to be properly responsive to knob movement. When I tugged on the paper to see how tight the fit was, it resisted being slipped from its position. It was fairly pinned down. Here is a photo of the control board backside taken at a glancing angle, showing the joints for J1 in the foreground, and the pins of the U6 socket behind that. The socket pins should probably be trimmed, which I did not anticipate. The other joints, while not necessarily overly beautiful, I'll also check for height. It's not clear to me which pins on the encoder board are shorting to which pins on the control board, but it seems clear that some are. https://photos.app.goo.gl/KDzlAixNghg2tmhy1 If after trimming the U6 socket pins the problem persists, I'll leave the paper slip in, but I don't feel great about it. The paper could fail on these sharp solder joints given vibration over long periods of time. Has anyone else had an experience like this where the front panel board meets the control board? I believe the manual talks warns about this condition. Thank you. Mark AE6RT -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K2 RF Board P5 speaker connector orientation
The K2 RF board assembly instructions say to install P5 *with the vertical locking ramp toward S1*. I don't know how to interpret this. Does this mean when P5 is installed, the pins are closer to S1 than the locking ramp is? Or the other way around? Thanks. Mark AE6RT -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K2 SSB option's RFC1/RFC2 mounting orientation
Hi. As I approach the final steps pertaining to toroids and chokes in assembling the SSB option for the K2, I am reading older messages in the mail archives about RFC1 and/or RFC2 shorting to the adjacent crystal cans. The manual doesn't say, but are RFC1/RFC2 to be installed vertically? The outline on the bottom of the board suggests they are mounted flat, but i wanted to get some feedback before proceeding. A flat mount looks pretty tight, while a vertical mount looks less so. Thanks. Mark AE6RT -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB crystal filter set lacks calibration value
Thanks, Don. If I lack the spectrum analyzer and noise generator to perform the refinement, what sorts of outcomes can I expect? Will the SSB option work, but sub-optimally? On Fri, Apr 6, 2018 at 8:03 PM, Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com> wrote: > Mark, > > Assume it is 3.6 for the initial filter alignment. > That can be refined later. if you use an audio spectrum analyzer and a > broadband noise generator to properly position the filter passband. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > > On 4/6/2018 10:13 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote: > >> Hi. >> >> My K2 SSB option inventory correctly has the part number E850006 qty. 7 >> 4.9MHz crystal filters, but the envelope containing the filters has no >> calibration value recorded on the outside. Is there an easy way to >> determine what this value should be? >> > -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K2 SSB crystal filter set lacks calibration value
Hi. My K2 SSB option inventory correctly has the part number E850006 qty. 7 4.9MHz crystal filters, but the envelope containing the filters has no calibration value recorded on the outside. Is there an easy way to determine what this value should be? Thanks. -- Mark AE6RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation techniques: trim before or after soldering?
While reading through my new K2 kit's control board assembly instructions, I see that some builders prefer to trim the resistor and capacitor leads before soldering. I'm intrigued by this, and wonder if someone who uses this technique can share their experiences. Do you the solder the component from the top of the board or bottom? How do you keep the component in place during soldering? I am assuming the value of this technique is in the resulting lower profile of the components on the backside of the board. Thank you. Mark AE6RT -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 DC voltage check
Thank you, Don. What does drastically mean in this context? > On Feb 27, 2016, at 11:59 AM, Don Wilhelm <w3...@embarqmail.com> wrote: > > Mark, > > You are effectively reading the voltage drop across D16. > That 600mV drop across D16 will not drastically affect the operation of the > K1. > If you would like a bit higher voltage on the PA transistor, you can increase > the voltage of your power supply a bit (the K1 upper voltage spec is 15 > volts). If you are running on batteries, it will make a little difference. > If you would like a lower voltage drop across D16, replace it with a 95SQ015 > which is available from Elecraft as p/n E560009 (it is used in the K2 as the > series reverse voltage protection diode. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > >> On 2/27/2016 2:32 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote: >> I'm performing the DC voltage checks (page 30 of the instructions), which >> occur immediately after installing the power switch on the RF board. >> >> P1 pin 16 is supposed to be supply minus 300mV, but I get 600mV. Is this a >> cause for concern? > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K1 DC voltage check
I'm performing the DC voltage checks (page 30 of the instructions), which occur immediately after installing the power switch on the RF board. P1 pin 16 is supposed to be supply minus 300mV, but I get 600mV. Is this a cause for concern? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Unsoldering
I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in. I have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with. The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of it. And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint. I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck with unsoldering. Is it just me or does everyone have this problem? Thanks. Mark AE6RT -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K1 L9 and L10 inductors
Hi. I'm not sure how perfect the wound inductors need to be when assembling the K1 filter board. Here's mine: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2mjyTRatLHGNXZwVFZXc0FISFU Do these look good enough? I did L9 first, and I feel like L10 is better. Also, I did not notice at the time that L9 is wound counterclockwise and L10 clockwise. I don't think this matters, but wanted to check. I have no problem removing L9 and rewinding it if it looks wonky - none of the turns overlap, but the turns heading into the board are not super-taut. I guess I could reheat them and give them a pull. What do you think? Many thanks. Mark AE6RT -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Questions on RF Parts bag inventory for K1
As I inventoried my K1 parts, I cannot find mention in the RF Bag part list of the extra hardware in the attached photo. I don't see anything in the errata about these parts. What are they used for? I also find that the K1 relay listed on page 3 of the RF Bag parts list is not actually in the RF Bag, but instead was located amongst qty 3 of same in a plastic tube in the KFL1-2 Two Band module bag. This information may help someone unboxing their kit in the near future. Mark -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Unpacking the K1 package contents
Hi. Would someone please post pictures of the items E72 - Thermal insulator and E100108 - Acylic bezel I am having trouble locating and identifying them as I unpack my new K1 kit contents. Thanks. -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Unpacking the K1 package contents
I found the parts. They were both in an envelope labeled "E850040 - Serial Number kit, K1". On Sat, Jan 30, 2016 at 3:49 PM, Mark Petrovic <mspetro...@gmail.com> wrote: > Hi. > > Would someone please post pictures of the items > > E72 - Thermal insulator > > and > > > E100108 - Acylic bezel > > I am having trouble locating and identifying them as I unpack my > new K1 kit contents. > > Thanks. > > -- > Mark -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Soldering station recommendation in preparation for building a K1
Hi. I am preparing to build the Elecraft K1, and am seeking a recommendation for a temperature controlled soldering station mentioned in the K1 assembly guide. Any suggestions? Thank you. -- Mark __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
