Bill,
Yes, as long as the KPA100 is physically connected to the base K2, its
wattmeter will be used for power control. The base K2 provides power to
the critical circuits and MCU in the KPA100 even though the PA is turned
off in the menu or not powered via the APP connector.
You MUST
So, if you turn the KPA100 off via the menu, the KPA100 SWR bridge is still
used in any case?
I’ll plan to add 50-100 kOhm resistors across the output, as you suggested. I’m
also going to re-do the calibration of both SWR meters, just make sure no
damage was done to the KAT100.
> On May 25,
I only partially answered the question about when each wattmeter is used.
If the KAT100 is connected to a QRP K2 (KPA100 physically removed)
through a KIO2, then the KAT100 wattmeter will be used for power control
and SWR display in the K2 display.
As long as the KPA100 is physically
Bill,
Both wattmeters (KPA100 and KAT100) are in-line at the same time. With
the KPA100 installed the KAT100 wattmeter is only used to calculate the
SWR and use that value to light the SWR bargraph. But otherwise they are
electrically equal.
Why the KPA100 diodes get zapped while the KAT100
Don, I have one question.
This is the second time my K2/100 has completely toasted D16 and D17. I also
have a KAT100 connected at the same time, which has virtually identical SWR
bridge.
How is it that a static discharge can destroy D16 and D17, but the diodes D1
and D2 in the KAT100 are
OK, I removed D16 and D17, and on the diode setting of my DVM, they both
measured the same value both forward and backward - 034. Which means they were
totally shorted.
I replaced them with new diodes (which measured 316 forward, and infinite
backward), and the RF display is once again
Took me over week to check this, but power is the same whether Tune or
Tune/Display — 100 watts!
So, the suspects are likely D16 & D17.
Fortunately, the last time I replaced them I put in a couple of pins from a
machined pin socket, so it should be an easy job.
I’ve had to replace U6 before
Bill,
Set the power at 50 watts and do a TUNE.
Is the output power at 20 to 25 watts? If so, so far so good.
Now try a TUNE/DISPLAY (hold both buttons at once). Is the power near
50 watts? If so, you have proper power control and the problem is with
the LED display.
OTOH, if the actual
I’ve recently seem a problem with my K2/100. It transmits ok, and the power
level out tracks the power control, but the power indication LEDs remain at
zero.
No, I’m not in ALC mode, I’m definitely in RF mode for the meter.
I’m using an external wattmeter (a Kenwood AT-250 in passthrough
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