The time and date will be: 01:02:03:04:05:06
As a veteran of 01/02/03 04:05:06, 01/01/01 01:01:01, and 1/9/99, let me
just say that the thrill is brief. You should party like it's 05/04/03
02:01:00.
Craig
NZ0R
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There are several discussion threads about this item over the last
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Dick Ballard W7AND
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Beaverton OR (near Portland)
On Mon, 3 Apr 2006 21:38:38 EDT, you wrote:
Just picked this up over the weekend
Good morning,
I have a quick question that I should probably already know the answer
to but don't.
My father-in-law just gave me an SB-200 amp. I've never used one before
and was wondering if it could be used with a native K2 (i.e., I don't
have the KPA100).
Thank you.
... Kirby
---
The time and date will be: 01:02:03:04:05:06
Better still, come over to the UK next month when at two minutes and three
seconds after one o' clock on the 4th May 06 you can experience it all over
again.
73
Peter
GM8GAX
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Hi,
I happened to see they now have the XV432 Assembly manual and 50 MHz to
432 MHz owners manual in the transverter section of the manuals on the
Elecraft website.
I assume that they must be running a new PDF compression system as they
state the XV manuals are between 1.4 and 1.8 KB (yes KB)
This is a nice unit. I bought one from Sears a while back, looks just like
the one from RS. Only problem I paid $39. At $20 thats a very good deal.
I bought it for my R/C planes for charging at the field. I really didn't
think it had enough to start a car but I was proven wrong one cold
Because I am always free in my manual translations, the German manual of
KXB3080 says (retranslated)
Recommended is a small solder tip in pencil form
No metrics nor inches :-)
Peter
-Ursprüngliche Nachricht-
Von: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Im Auftrag von Ron
Once again I will be operating the ARCI Spring QP from the great state of
Delaware.
I will be signing as NJ2OM/3, and mostly running on or near the QRP frequencies.
During the evening hours I will check 80m at the top of each hour. I will
check 10m at the top of other hours.
If anyone
I know that this issue comes up from time to time. I ran across this
comparison of materials on the Web and thought some might find it
useful.
www.qrp.pops.net/w7el.htm
Best regards, Michael N9BDF, K2 #4137
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Alex,
The local electronics store had WESD51D stations on sale when I went
looking last
year for the initial KX1 build... The Elecraft mojo was
working for me even
BEFORE I started building!
I'm holding out for the 'Low Static' Soldapullt now - they had to back
order it for me!
-
Impossible to say, without defining it.
If it is: timestamp is 6 monotonically ascending integers when displayed
backwards* modulo 100, it will happen next year at 02:03:04:05:06:07.
If it is: timestamp is the first 6 integers in order when displayed
backwards* modulo 100, it will happen in 100
...an MFJ clock ...
Kinda stupid for an
Amateur Radio product. Model MFJ-123.
Sums it up for me right there.
I bought one of their Deluxe Iambic Paddles last year when I built my K1.
It uses a split post to cinch down on the threaded contacts. Problem is that
it's not possible to cinch them
When I got back into the hobby last fall I needed a clock. I looked at
some fancy ones but ended up buying a radio shack travel alarm clock.
It displays 24 hour time, is easy to read set and even has a
thermometer built in so I can see temps like 58F at the operating
position.
I think it cost
Hi Craig.
We have a total of 8 automatic WWV synched clocks of various types...
And I live 30 miles from the WWV transmitter.
Incidentially, it is _WWVB_ on 60 kHz, not WWV or WWVH on HF that is used by
these radio controlled clocks for periodic time checks, usually once a day
during the
Twice a year, I take my clocks out to the back porch and out of my
shack/office. That is around the time of DST/ST switches. The rest of
the year, my Atomic Clock from LaCrosse is always in perfect sync to
the ability of my eye to detect. I always do it after the switch
because I never
On Apr 4, 2006, at 7:43 AM, John Magliacane wrote:
Despite your short distance to WWVB, you still might be
experiencing poor
reception due to local interference sources. Computer monitors,
switching
power supplies, AC operated motors, and thunderstorms tend to
generate a
lot of 60 kHz
Congrats! Now I want one too. Acxtually I've been wondering which to get,
the k-1 or the kx1. Also kind of waiting for a kit that does 6/10/12/15/17
meter kit. I might be waiting a long time! I do like the kx1 and barrowed
one for a weekend...fun. I would have liked to have 5 watts
The BLT is a fine tuner. I've got one too. It's limited and doesn't have
the range of elecrafts auto tuners but then until the cash flow allows it.
The blt is good enough. I think you'lle be happy with it. 73's
de n5vwn Roland
On Apr 3, 2006, at 7:28 PM, Richard Powers wrote:
I am
Michael N9BDF wrote:
I know that this issue comes up from time to time. I ran across this
comparison of materials on the Web and thought some might find it useful.
www.qrp.pops.net/w7el.htm
---
Interesting info!
The Elecraft kits are designed to avoid the
All,
It seems to me that is should be possible to write a piece of software that
controls the K2 transmit frequency (steps it up in increments), reads the
LP-100 SWR, power etc, and produces plots for each ham band of frequency
versus SWR, power etc. It would sure be nice if this was built into
Hello all:
I have built Ron's/Tom's HF Noise Generator inside a business cards plastic
box (hi!)...it looks very uggly and works beautifully! For those of you who,
like myself, have little or no instrumentation, do build the circuit and
align your receiver with it. Its a great solution.
Thank
The LP-100 Plot software does this already if you use DXlabs Commander
(freeware) or TRX-Manager. It doesn't matter what rig is selected, it
will work with any supported rig. You set the start and stop frequencies
and step size, then hit Run. The program controls the rig and gathers
the
Thanks for the reference. However, the idea that this system is
'superior' would depend upon why one is looking for a time reference.
If all you want is a relatively high accuracy clock the WWV signal is
superior IMO. It certainly is easier to decode! As an added benefit it
includes the DST bit --
My old Heathkit clock received WWV on 5Mhz, 10Mhz and 15Mhz. You could
turn up the audio and listen if you wanted.
Incidentially, it is _WWVB_ on 60 kHz, not WWV or WWVH on HF that is used by
these radio controlled clocks for periodic time checks, usually once a day
during the early morning
Hi Everybody.
Is there anyone with a Elecraft/Heil Handmike sitting
around collecting dust?
Thanks.
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
=
L. Jeffrey Hetherington - VA3JFF
QRP-ARCI (sm) Contest Manager
QRP-ARCI (sm) #9223 / K2 #3375 / KX1 #631
Hi Mark.
Thanks for the reference. However, the idea that this system is
'superior' would depend upon why one is looking for a time reference.
If all you want is a relatively high accuracy clock the WWV signal is
superior IMO. It certainly is easier to decode! As an added benefit it
includes
Hello,
finally I hope that I managed to calculate the score correctly.
Conditions for us Europeans were not as good as during last year's
Party. On Sunday morning I stood up very urly to get some DX on 40m
band but even there had no luck.
But OK... after several tries I have been very glad to
Sverre
I used to run BeaconSee very successfully with my K2 and it's KIO2. It did
switch the K2 to the various frequencies without a problem. Note the following
from my post on the subject some time ago:
There is a little trick to driving the K2 that might not be obvious... if
you don't
- Original Message -
From: John Magliacane [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 7:00 PM
While every amateur text I've come across states that the D and E layers
disappear at night, they, in fact, do not. They rise to higher altitudes
and
remain ionized through
Proof that one does not have to have a sophisticated array of instruments to
build and peak up things, often easy to build designs will provide a great
aid to your array of tools that are usable.
My list of 'indespensible tools' for your workbench:
1. DMM
2. Good non-reactive Dummy Load
3. RF
Fellow Elecrafters--
I've successfully completed the KSB2 module for my K2/100 through p. 16
in the manual, front panel PCB component installation.
Now it's time for mic configuration, p. 17. Winding toroids, soldering
multi-pin connectors and IC's, stuffing capacitors, etc.--those I don't
Or the subject line could be why good house cleaning is a must. On Saturday I
posted a message concerning my KAT100-2 not achieving a good SWR. I had the
bottom off all weekend, reflowing solder, re-calibrating the SWR bridge.
Pulling my head out.
Two kind souls responded to my post,
Thank you for the list Don!
Your comments are always full of wisdom and practical sense. They are indeed
welcome.
Take care.
73
Manuel
LU5OM
CT4IK
- Original Message -
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Manuel Wilches [EMAIL PROTECTED];
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday,
I found a BLT Tuner. Thanks to all who replied to my original e-mail.
Dick WB9PWQ
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1 Question: Let's say I'm reading the Elecraft
list of mail, the most recent. And I see a set of
messages I'd like to chime in on - HOW DO I DO IT.
For example, lets say there
Folks,
My advice on mic wiring - unless you must use the mics with multiple rigs,
wire the mic configuration header for the Elecraft mics, and then change the
wiring at the mic plug to match the Elecraft configuration.
By doing that, it certainly simplifies things a whole lot. I see no sense
in
Keith KD1E wrote:
When I got back into the hobby last fall I needed a clock. I looked at some
fancy ones but ended up buying a radio shack travel alarm clock. It displays
24 hour time, is easy to read set and even has a thermometer built in so I
can see temps like 58F at the operating position.
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