3D PRINTING - WHAT WORKS FOR ME AND WHAT I'VE LEARNED
I print on borosilicate glass. I use Elmer's Xtreme glue stick for
first layer adhesion. The larger 40 gram stick takes less time to
apply. I use a clean dry borosilicate glass plate. Apply the glue when
the plate is room temperature.
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 20:30:42 Dave Matthews wrote:
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020, 20:09 Gene Heskett wrote:
> > On Tuesday 02 June 2020 18:22:20 Chris Albertson wrote:
> > > Cura has about 200 settings that you can change. You might try
> > > printing on a raft or using say 50% infill density and
Slow down the speed of the head a bit. Or increase the extrusion a bit. May
need a little of both. What was your bed prep? I find that scrubbing glue stick
on the bed then wiping with a wet paper towel to leave an even film behind
works pretty good for PLA, and when the bed cools the print pops
Hi Gene,
One thing to mention about your printer that seems to have been missed:
The USB connector... when you plug a usb cable between your PC and the
printer (usually micro) USB connector, the printer looks like a serial
port device to the PC.
Using a program such as repetier-host
(yes, apologies for the highjack)
Your experience with the Dimension is valuable. We had
our FDM-200mc since 2008, and have a shelf unit full of
genuine Stratasys filament and trays. We reuse the trays.
When I get one system running again, preferably with
Insight rather than Catalyst, I would
My glass plate is clipped onto the aluminium plate under which is the heater
PCB. Under that I inserted a black insulating blanket used to shield the
joists while soldering copper pipes. I found that by insulating the bottom of
the moving bed that more of the heat is retained and what i
apimage is an app image. Supposed to work on any distro of Linux unlike the old
distribution specific packages.
On Tuesday, June 2, 2020, 10:40:25 AM MDT, Gene Heskett
wrote:
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 11:48:18 Dave Matthews wrote:
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:39 AM Gene Heskett
wrote:
Thaddeus -
I'm very interested in hearing more about your old Stratasys.
I've got two old Stratasys machines in a lab. One is a dead
FDM-200mc, and the other is a virtually identical Dimension
Elite I got at auction, presumably working. It was dead to,
and I'm trying to make one functioning
On Tue, Jun 2, 2020, 20:09 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 18:22:20 Chris Albertson wrote:
>
> > Cura has about 200 settings that you can change. You might try
> > printing on a raft or using say 50% infill density and Gyroid pattern
> > I print small gears with 1.6 wall
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 18:22:20 Chris Albertson wrote:
> Cura has about 200 settings that you can change. You might try
> printing on a raft or using say 50% infill density and Gyroid pattern
> I print small gears with 1.6 wall thickness. Slowing the speed to
> 30mm/sec works some times
>
Measure your filament at several different spots with calipers and make sure
that the “filiment size” setting In the slicer matches your measurement exactly.
> On Jun 2, 2020, at 4:57 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 16:37:08 Chris Albertson wrote:
>
>> I just printed a
First, It bears repeating that the printer I’m using is Not a “normal” one.
Stratasys Dinension Elite, can’t print pla because it burns it up while loading
and clogs the nozzle with carbon, works best to print ABS with hot end temp at
275C, runs enclosure temperature at 75C, and uses a
>
> I am pretty blessed here in new zealand. there is a cnc lathe on the other
> side of the shed that I will get going soon also.
>
That's a place I hope I can visit soon. From what I've seen and read of New
Zealand, it looks like a paradise to live. Sadly I can't say the same thing
about where
thanks leonardo
I am pretty blessed here in new zealand. there is a cnc lathe on the other
side of the shed that I will get going soon also.
and I can see myself finding a big flat bed cnc router with a dead
controller for a couple of thousand and fixing it maybe in the next couple
of years.
I envy you for having such a baby at the shop.
Really nice!
Thanks for sharing.
El mar., 2 jun. 2020 20:13, andrew beck escribió:
> Hey guys
>
> just wanted to share this quick video with everyone.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoGmx2C9cuM
>
> you have all helped me so much it has made
Cura has about 200 settings that you can change. You might try printing
on a raft or using say 50% infill density and Gyroid pattern I print small
gears with 1.6 wall thickness. Slowing the speed to 30mm/sec works some
times
There are so many things to get right it will take a long time.
I think your end mill cutter analogy is useful. What I would add is that in
order to get good layer adhesion, the actual width of the 3d-printed track
needs to be slightly “squashed” by the nozzle as it is placed. A good rule of
thumb in my experience is to use somewhere between 2-3 times the
I just printed a set of 3mm pitch GT3 timing pulleys with my 0.4 mm nozzle.
They came out just fine.
The final profile of the pulley tooth is not determined by the
nozzle diameter it is limited by the step size on the printer. My pulley
fit the belt well enough that tooth shape is not the
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 12:50:54 Karl Jacobs wrote:
> Gene, just make it executable and run the appImage. I use Cura to
> slice for a Delta-printer and use LinuxCNC (actually, Machinekit on a
> Beaglebone) to drive the hardware. Marlin on Arduino hardware works
> nicely too, of course. Good luck
On Tue, 2 Jun 2020, Dave Matthews wrote:
On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:39 AM Gene Heskett wrote:
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote:
Docs? The entire printer is open source.
No it is NOT! The Cura slicer is windows only. And there will be a
language barrier that
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 12:37:54 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 11:48:18 Dave Matthews wrote:
> > On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:39 AM Gene Heskett
>
> wrote:
> > > On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote:
> > > > Docs? The entire printer is open source.
> > >
> > > No
On Tue, 2 Jun 2020 at 16:39, Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> > Docs? The entire printer is open source.
>
> No it is NOT! The Cura slicer is windows only.
1) Cura is not part of your printer.
2) Cura is available for Mac, Linux and Windows.
3) The Cura source is here:
Gene, just make it executable and run the appImage. I use Cura to slice
for a Delta-printer and use LinuxCNC (actually, Machinekit on a
Beaglebone) to drive the hardware. Marlin on Arduino hardware works
nicely too, of course. Good luck with 3D-printing, just needs the usual
learning curve.
Karl
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 11:48:18 Dave Matthews wrote:
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:39 AM Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote:
> > > Docs? The entire printer is open source.
> >
> > No it is NOT! The Cura slicer is windows only. And there will be a
> >
On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:39 AM Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote:
>
> > Docs? The entire printer is open source.
>
> No it is NOT! The Cura slicer is windows only. And there will be a
> language barrier that prevents a request for that source code
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote:
> Docs? The entire printer is open source.
No it is NOT! The Cura slicer is windows only. And there will be a
language barrier that prevents a request for that source code from ever
being replied to. Been there, done that too many
Docs? The entire printer is open source. The docs are on the SD card but
if there is no SD card the content of the card is on Github. There is a
video walkthrough and a PDF doc both in assembly and setup.
THey also have the CAD files for the printer, Should you want to make your
own parts or
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 04:06:16 andy pugh wrote:
> On Tue, 2 Jun 2020 at 01:22, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > The controller has an empty u-sd socket and a smallish usb
> >
> > port, looks like an OTG port. Does anyone know what thats about?
> > No other documentation came with it.
>
> Is there a
On Tue, 2 Jun 2020 at 01:22, Gene Heskett wrote:
> The controller has an empty u-sd socket and a smallish usb
> port, looks like an OTG port. Does anyone know what thats about? No
> other documentation came with it.
Is there a CD with it? Or an SD card? They tend to provide docs that way
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