On Tuesday 18 July 2017 14:41:36 Stephen Dubovsky wrote:
> Most of the 140gr 6.5CM data I've seen the bullet slows down past 24"
> bbl length. Not sure why you'd want/need a barrel burner either
> (isn't thats what people pick 6mm/243 win for?) The stock Hornady 140
> ELD-M load is already
Most of the 140gr 6.5CM data I've seen the bullet slows down past 24" bbl
length. Not sure why you'd want/need a barrel burner either (isn't thats
what people pick 6mm/243 win for?) The stock Hornady 140 ELD-M load is
already comparable ballistics to 300 win mag. I've shot 6.5CM out to
1200yds.
On Monday 17 July 2017 23:28:36 dave wrote:
> On 07/17/2017 09:23 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > On Monday 17 July 2017 11:08:19 andy pugh wrote:
> >> On 17 July 2017 at 15:42, Gene Heskett wrote:
> >>> I saw that, and the long pipe gripped in the chuck with the huge
> >>>
On 07/17/2017 09:23 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Monday 17 July 2017 11:08:19 andy pugh wrote:
On 17 July 2017 at 15:42, Gene Heskett wrote:
I saw that, and the long pipe gripped in the chuck with the huge
bearing so it all turned. The bearing is nice but $$ and not
On Monday 17 July 2017 11:08:19 andy pugh wrote:
> On 17 July 2017 at 15:42, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > I saw that, and the long pipe gripped in the chuck with the huge
> > bearing so it all turned. The bearing is nice but $$ and not
> > needed if the tube is turned truly
I replaced my outboard spindle nut with a cathead, and made a Morse # 5 1/2
taper cathead to fit the inboard spindle taper so I don't even use a four
jaw chuck sometimes.
marshall
On Jul 17, 2017 10:15 AM, "andy pugh" wrote:
> On 17 July 2017 at 15:42, Gene Heskett
On 17 July 2017 at 15:42, Gene Heskett wrote:
> I saw that, and the long pipe gripped in the chuck with the huge bearing
> so it all turned. The bearing is nice but $$ and not needed if the
> tube is turned truly round.
I imagine that a suitable bearing could be found
On Monday 17 July 2017 06:55:13 Erik Christiansen wrote:
> On 17.07.17 10:48, andy pugh wrote:
> > On 17 July 2017 at 10:32, Erik Christiansen
wrote:
> > > Me too, so I wasn't:
> > > https://au.pinterest.com/pin/421931058818147426/
> >
> > Pinterest only lets you see
On 17 July 2017 at 13:21, Stuart Stevenson wrote:
> I did some roughnecking in my youth so I also know what a cathead is. The
> rotating part in the video.
>
>
I did some roughnecking in my youth so I also know what a cathead is. The
rotating part in the video.
https://www.shutterstock.com/video/clip-3869390-stock-footage-drawworks-cathead-rotating-equipment-for-oil-drilling-rig.html
Obviously, not the subject of this thread hence the question. :)
On
On 17.07.17 10:48, andy pugh wrote:
> On 17 July 2017 at 10:32, Erik Christiansen wrote:
>
> > Me too, so I wasn't: https://au.pinterest.com/pin/421931058818147426/
>
> Pinterest only lets you see the top few results before demanding one
> sign-up with them, but I could
On 17 July 2017 at 10:32, Erik Christiansen wrote:
> Me too, so I wasn't: https://au.pinterest.com/pin/421931058818147426/
Pinterest only lets you see the top few results before demanding one
sign-up with them, but I could see enough to be led to
On 17.07.17 09:44, andy pugh wrote:
> On 17 July 2017 at 01:57, Stuart Stevenson wrote:
> > Agreed - what is a cat head?
>
> It's the beam that you hoist an anchor with.
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathead
>
> (I knew exactly what a cathead was, and so was even more
On 17 July 2017 at 01:57, Stuart Stevenson wrote:
> Agreed - what is a cat head?
It's the beam that you hoist an anchor with.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathead
(I knew exactly what a cathead was, and so was even more confused)
--
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a
On Sunday 16 July 2017 21:44:42 Trent Hejazi wrote:
> Sorry. That’s how I felt when I first heard of a HAL pin ;)
>
> Catheads usually have four fine thread set screws and act like a for
> jaw independent chuck so you can fine adjust the bores on barrels. By
> making one, you can gain some
On 17/7/17 10:11 am, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Sunday 16 July 2017 19:13:42 Trent Hejazi wrote:
That¹s another direction I want to try. Basically, a cat head riding
in a ball bearing that mounts in the steady rest.
Not familiar with the term "cat head", 'splain plz. Preferably with a
link to a
Sorry. That’s how I felt when I first heard of a HAL pin ;)
Catheads usually have four fine thread set screws and act like a for jaw
independent chuck so you can fine adjust the bores on barrels. By making
one, you can gain some flexibility. By sticking a DTI probe inside of the
bore, you can
On 07/16/2017 06:13 PM, Trent Hejazi wrote:
That¹s another direction I want to try. Basically, a cat head riding in a
ball bearing that mounts in the steady rest. This would allow me to
center a barrel by using the DTI inside a chamber or muzzle, where I
cannot otherwise take a skim cut while
Agreed - what is a cat head?
On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 7:11 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Sunday 16 July 2017 19:13:42 Trent Hejazi wrote:
>
> > That¹s another direction I want to try. Basically, a cat head riding
> > in a ball bearing that mounts in the steady rest.
>
>
On Sunday 16 July 2017 19:13:42 Trent Hejazi wrote:
> That¹s another direction I want to try. Basically, a cat head riding
> in a ball bearing that mounts in the steady rest.
Not familiar with the term "cat head", 'splain plz. Preferably with a
link to a pix?
> This would allow me
> to
That¹s another direction I want to try. Basically, a cat head riding in a
ball bearing that mounts in the steady rest. This would allow me to
center a barrel by using the DTI inside a chamber or muzzle, where I
cannot otherwise take a skim cut while supporting on a center or run it
through the
Why not ball bearings? Then there is no relative movement between the rest
and the part.
As for friction of solid fingers
lowest friction is a lead/copper alloy, next best phosphor bronze. Motor
oil helps.
On Sat, Jul 15, 2017 at 7:00 PM, Trent Hejazi wrote:
> I have
On Sunday 16 July 2017 12:38:46 jeremy youngs wrote:
> A piece of cardboard box with a hole in the middle does a treat for
> keeping chips out of the steady rest
>
Hummm, now why the heck didn't I think of that?
And after getting the mandrel to fit, I went out and bought some 1/4" SAE
bolts to
A piece of cardboard box with a hole in the middle does a treat for keeping
chips out of the steady rest
On Jul 16, 2017 10:29 AM, "Gene Heskett" wrote:
> On Sunday 16 July 2017 10:55:53 John Kasunich wrote:
>
> > On Sun, Jul 16, 2017, at 02:51 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> >
On Sunday 16 July 2017 10:55:53 John Kasunich wrote:
> On Sun, Jul 16, 2017, at 02:51 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> (snip)
>
> > Some of this I should be
> > doing between centers, driving the workpiece with a dog, but I don't
> > have a 5C to MT2 adaptor. I might see if I can find one tomorrow. My
On Sun, Jul 16, 2017, at 02:51 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
(snip)
> Some of this I should be
> doing between centers, driving the workpiece with a dog, but I don't
> have a 5C to MT2 adaptor. I might see if I can find one tomorrow. My bed
> is calling me now.
If you are referring to the
On Sunday 16 July 2017 03:26:45 Peter Blodow wrote:
> Gene,
> learning from the experience from machining in our shop, I made my
> (own private) steady rest with small ball bearings right from the
> beginning (and also the moving rest which can be bolted to the
> carriage). They also cause some
Erik, I have also bearings with an outer ring of toroid surface (no
edges), but never used them.
Peter
Am 16.07.2017 um 10:38 schrieb Erik Christiansen:
On 16.07.17 09:26, Peter Blodow wrote:
Gene,
learning from the experience from machining in our shop, I made my (own
private) steady rest
On 16.07.17 09:26, Peter Blodow wrote:
> Gene,
> learning from the experience from machining in our shop, I made my (own
> private) steady rest with small ball bearings right from the beginning (and
> also the moving rest which can be bolted to the carriage). They also cause
> some minor traces on
Gene,
learning from the experience from machining in our shop, I made my (own
private) steady rest with small ball bearings right from the beginning
(and also the moving rest which can be bolted to the carriage). They
also cause some minor traces on the workpieces, but these can be
polished
On Sunday 16 July 2017 02:21:41 Marcus Bowman wrote:
> On 16 Jul 2017, at 06:37, andy pugh wrote:
> > On 16 July 2017 at 02:46, Gene Heskett wrote:
> >> Which will do the least damage to a pre-finished part, such as the
> >> fairly high polished SS barrel? Brass or copper?
On 16 Jul 2017, at 06:37, andy pugh wrote:
> On 16 July 2017 at 02:46, Gene Heskett wrote:
>
>> Which will do the least damage to a pre-finished part, such as the fairly
>> high polished SS barrel? Brass or copper?
>
On a three-fingered steady, a different approach is
On Sunday 16 July 2017 01:37:50 andy pugh wrote:
> On 16 July 2017 at 02:46, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > Which will do the least damage to a pre-finished part, such as the
> > fairly high polished SS barrel? Brass or copper?
>
> Copper is quite sticky, you want brass or
On Sunday 16 July 2017 00:02:35 Danny Miller wrote:
> Look up CA954 aluminum bronze.
>
I'll keep that in mind Danny, thanks. Brass already purchased though.
> Very good sliding surface on stainless.
>
> Danny
>
> On 7/15/2017 10:05 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > On Saturday 15 July 2017 22:00:44
On 16 July 2017 at 02:46, Gene Heskett wrote:
> Which will do the least damage to a pre-finished part, such as the fairly
> high polished SS barrel? Brass or copper?
Copper is quite sticky, you want brass or bronze.
--
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium
Look up CA954 aluminum bronze.
Very good sliding surface on stainless.
Danny
On 7/15/2017 10:05 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Saturday 15 July 2017 22:00:44 Trent Hejazi wrote:
I have brass contact fingers and they work well.
I'll get a brass bar yet tonight then, thanks.
When supporting
On Saturday 15 July 2017 22:00:44 Trent Hejazi wrote:
> I have brass contact fingers and they work well.
I'll get a brass bar yet tonight then, thanks.
> When supporting the
> barrel tennon, they ride on the threads without damaging them.
Threads on a p-17 are square, 10 tpi. I already have
I have brass contact fingers and they work well. When supporting the
barrel tennon, they ride on the threads without damaging them. Otherwise,
they will always leave an annoying ring on a barrel. Only way to
circumvent is to make a collar to slip over barrel, then skim cut
concentric with the
Greetings all;
My steady rest has steel sliders, which will not do for working on
finished parts. So I need to order a foot of 1/2x1" brass or copper to
make some more better shoes.
Which will do the least damage to a pre-finished part, such as the fairly
high polished SS barrel? Brass or
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