Re: [Emc-users] mesa 7i76 spindle encoder not counting suddenly

[andrew beck]

sweet as gene

actually on this currently I have 2 big blocks for grounding.  both
connected together with a decent 6 mm cable.  is that enough to work as one
ground block or do I really need to get and machine/ buy another grounding
block that is all one piece


the latest is the E stop circuit wasn't working.  So I disconnected it and
put a push botton right at the servo on input on the servo drives and that
works to trigger control power on and off to the servos.  so I will go
looking through the rest of the E stop circuit.  there is something on the
estop circuit that didn't like me connecting the  field io power 0v to the
machine frame ground.

regards

Andrew

On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 4:55 PM Gene Heskett  wrote:

> On Friday 29 May 2020 22:14:57 andrew beck wrote:
>
> > sweet thanks gene
> >
> > I will take your advice and connect the pc chassis to the main ground.
> >
> > I think I will continue to use my grounding blocks for now though as
> > there are about 20 ground cables to connect up and that is getting a
> > bit much for one bolt I think.  hopefully I don't have a problem.  I
> > will let you know if I do haha
> >
> Use only one block, and put them as close together as you can.
> >
> > regards
> >
> > Andrew
> >
> > On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 2:00 PM Gene Heskett 
> wrote:
> > > On Friday 29 May 2020 21:22:09 andrew beck wrote:
> > > > thanks guys
> > > >
> > > > just one question about all this gene
> > > >
> > > > why do you suggest breaking the ground off the the computer
> > > > powersupply cable and connecting a ground from the pc chassis to
> > > > the machine main ground?
> > > >
> > > > does the grounding that goes through the cable now good enough?
> > >
> > > The computers 3rd wire should remain if its the ONLY ground
> > > connection in the whole system. But since we power gear thru EMT
> > > tubing, and that also includes a generally better ground, the power
> > > cord to the computer should have that 2nd or 3rd ground removed, and
> > > the computers ground taken back to this common bolt by a direct from
> > > its chassis ground wire, UNLESS the computer is mounted to and
> > > mechanically connected to the frame of the machine and this frame is
> > > grounded to that common bolt.
> > >
> > > Anytime you can lift just one of those wires from that bolt, and
> > > still get ground continuity because its grounded someplace else too,
> > > is bad kharma, find that "other" ground and disconnect it.  Once,
> > > done well, is enough.  A shielded cable where the shield is grounded
> > > at the far end can inject many volts of noise, enough to blow the
> > > interface card. Disconnect that far end. That bolt should connect to
> > > the power wirings "static" ground, and the only allowable cross
> > > connected point to the powerline neutral is in the main entrance
> > > box. You don't care if a nearby lightning strike might cause that
> > > bolt to be 200,000 volts from ground for a microsecond during that
> > > strike, but the +5 volt line will be 200,005 volts, or 5 volts from
> > > what it considers its ground might be at that exact instant.  You
> > > will be damaged ONLY if some other point in the circuit breaks down
> > > and some of that lightning bolts energy actually flows thru your
> > > system to get to that better ground. Block it with air, the more the
> > > merrier.
> > >
> > > > regards
> > > >
> > > > Andrew
> > > >
> > > > On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 11:53 AM Leonardo Marsaglia
> > > > 
> > > >
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > > Connect all grounds to this bolt, checking that they are not
> > > > > > grounded at the far end.  By doing this, you are establishing
> > > > > > a single point ground that is the zero volt reference for the
> > > > > > whole system. Connect this bolt to the building static ground,
> > > > > > the bare wire in most power cabling.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Connect the machines frame to this bolt.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Connect the - rails of all supplies to this bolt.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Connect the - terminals of all cards to this bolt.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Break the 3rd pin off the computers supply cable and connect
> > > > > > the computers chassis to this bolt. Power the computer not
> > > > > > from the wall, but from the same power feeding this box.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Connect the shielding of all shielded cabling to this bolt. Do
> > > > > > not connect the far end of this shielding to anything that is
> > > > > > otherwise grounded.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > By making sure these grounds are not connected anyplace else
> > > > > > you are breaking any ground loops which can and will act as
> > > > > > antennas to insert noise into your control signals.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > By having this single point ground, a nearby lightning strike
> > > > > > can inject a 100k volt pulse into the system ground as what
> > > > > > would be called a "ground bounce",  but the system will not
> > > > > > see it as noise nor be damaged, because everything is 

Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Chris Albertson]

There is no "debian version" because it is universal.  Instructions here
https://appimage.org

That said, it needs an Intel CPU, not a Pi and likely a 64 bit OS.

Other slicers?
1) Slic3r https://dl.slic3r.org/linux/  (also an appimage)
2) ?


On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 9:52 PM Gene Heskett  wrote:

> On Friday 29 May 2020 22:00:00 Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> > On Friday 29 May 2020 21:42:40 andy pugh wrote:
> > > On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 02:32, Gene Heskett 
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > Cura isn't available for debian, so name another slicer.
>
-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[John Dammeyer]

> -Original Message-
> From: Chris Albertson [mailto:albertson.ch...@gmail.com]
> Sent: May-29-20 9:33 PM
> To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone
> 
> I'd place AlibreCAD on the list of "normal" or "modern" 3D CAD systems.
> Like a scaled down version of Fusion, or SolidWorks.   The workflow you use
> is very conventional.  Except AlibreCAD is "windows only" and not free.
> 
> What workflow do you use for getting AlibreCAD designs to the CNC mill?
>  Does AlibreCAD have a CAM add-on or is there a 3rd party software.   One
> of the things I like about Fusion is that it will directly make g-code for
> a mill or lathe.   I would like to hear from others how they go about going
> from design to both printing and milling.

It's called AlibreCAM and costs money too.  It's a version of Mecsoft CAM that 
is integrated into AlibreCAD.  So you can flip back and forth between the two.  
When you load AlibreCAM from AlibreCAD it remembers that you have CNC 
operations for the drawing and asks if you want them loaded.  I have the level 
that supports the 4th axis.  A new version has been released.  I haven't 
checked yet whether they have solved the 4th axis motion problem.  But 
apparently that exists in a lot of CAM programs.

A refresher.   If you set F4 for the imperial machine then the feed rate is 4 
IPM.If you want 4 IPM on a rotary object the system has to know where Z is 
relative to the axis of rotation to move the rotary axis at a speed that 
creates 4 IPM.  As the diameter (Z axis) changes the rotary movement should 
change.

This is similar to a CNC lathe changing the spindle speed as the X axis moves 
inwards to maintain the same SFM.

There are aftermarket programs that will process G-Code to fix this for CAM 
programs that don't do it right.  The last time I checked Mecsoft did not do it 
right.  I don't believe Fusion does it either.

John



> 
> 
> On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 7:28 PM John Dammeyer 
> wrote:
> 
> >
> > I use AlibreCAD to draw the item. In this case half of a pulley pattern
> > for the mill conversion.I export the file as an STL.  I then load that
> > with Repetier which is configured for my printer.  I can turn it and
> > position it exactly where I want it on the print bed.  I then slice it and
> > save the .gode file.
> >
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Chris Albertson
> Redondo Beach, California
> 
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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Chris Albertson]

Most 3D printers have an SD card slot and almost everyone simply puts the
g-code on the card.  The printer then runs all by itself and it is
ultra-reliable, beig self-contained.

But some of us are lazy and impatient.  If I run Octoprint on a Pi3 and put
the Pi3 on my WiFi then I can just drop the g-code file into the file->open
box and the printer starts and I don't have to walk the SD card across the
room.Octoprint can also live-stream video if I give it a webcam aimed
at the print bed and it reports progress. Sounds neat but (big BUT) you
still need to walk over to the printer to visually check it is adjusted
correctly and the glue or hairspray is working.  3D printing is not "plug
and play" and many times manual fiddling is required.   I'd start with
using SD cards but plan later for more automation.

For a first attempt just download the little boat test object, copy to SD
card, insert and press "print from SD card" and watch the printer either
(1) make a bird's nest of plastic spaghetti or (2) do nothing.   You want
the simplest possible workflow at the beginning because you WILL have to
debug.

Yes, Octoprint is good.

But like most people on this list, I already have a computer in my shop
that runs LinuxCNC.My plan is to put Octoprint on that computer.
 Using a Pi is easy because there is an SD card image with a pre-installed
Octoprint for Pi but it seems a waste to own one computer for each program
I need.   The LinuxCNC machine should be total overkill for Octoprint.

THANK YOU for that link to the Unimat CNC conversion.   That guy wins for
the cleanest and most simple solution I've seen to date.One idea is
worth gold:  Notice that he placed timing belt teeth on the handwheel.  The
handwheel is the pulley.  *Brilliant*.   What could be easier than using a
motor to turn the existing handwheels?

On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 9:22 PM Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users <
emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net> wrote:

> If the printer has a network port it should be possible to use it as a
> network printer to send it the sliced gcode file.
>
> There's freeware called Octoprint that runs on a computer (most often a
> Raspberry Pi) that's network connected and that then feeds the gcode to the
> printer. Printers that have built in slicing of STL tend to be 
> commercial machines, unless that capability has filtered down to us peons
> recently.
>
>A good thing to do is download some testing STL files (such as a cube,
> one with various features in graduated sizes, and the Benchy boat) then try
> various settings in various slicer programs until you get the test object
> printing well with the filament you're using. Change something about the
> filament, manufacturer, material, fillers etc and it's very likely
> something will need adjusted in settings, at least for temperature.
>
> I should check on the progress of a project to design 3D printed CNC
> conversion brackets for a Unimat lathe
> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1785310
> On Friday, May 29, 2020, 5:51:31 AM MDT, Gene Heskett <
> ghesk...@shentel.net> wrote:
>  On Friday 29 May 2020 02:53:55 Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:
>
> I'll check that as I'm assembling it.  Otherwise the fire risk and
> potential odor would seem to be tolerable, at least for a test run for
> effect.
>
> I assume it will accept an .stl file over a cat5 cable?
> ___
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>


-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [Emc-users] mesa 7i76 spindle encoder not counting suddenly

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 29 May 2020 22:14:57 andrew beck wrote:

> sweet thanks gene
>
> I will take your advice and connect the pc chassis to the main ground.
>
> I think I will continue to use my grounding blocks for now though as
> there are about 20 ground cables to connect up and that is getting a
> bit much for one bolt I think.  hopefully I don't have a problem.  I
> will let you know if I do haha
>
Use only one block, and put them as close together as you can.
>
> regards
>
> Andrew
>
> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 2:00 PM Gene Heskett  
wrote:
> > On Friday 29 May 2020 21:22:09 andrew beck wrote:
> > > thanks guys
> > >
> > > just one question about all this gene
> > >
> > > why do you suggest breaking the ground off the the computer
> > > powersupply cable and connecting a ground from the pc chassis to
> > > the machine main ground?
> > >
> > > does the grounding that goes through the cable now good enough?
> >
> > The computers 3rd wire should remain if its the ONLY ground
> > connection in the whole system. But since we power gear thru EMT
> > tubing, and that also includes a generally better ground, the power
> > cord to the computer should have that 2nd or 3rd ground removed, and
> > the computers ground taken back to this common bolt by a direct from
> > its chassis ground wire, UNLESS the computer is mounted to and
> > mechanically connected to the frame of the machine and this frame is
> > grounded to that common bolt.
> >
> > Anytime you can lift just one of those wires from that bolt, and
> > still get ground continuity because its grounded someplace else too,
> > is bad kharma, find that "other" ground and disconnect it.  Once,
> > done well, is enough.  A shielded cable where the shield is grounded
> > at the far end can inject many volts of noise, enough to blow the
> > interface card. Disconnect that far end. That bolt should connect to
> > the power wirings "static" ground, and the only allowable cross
> > connected point to the powerline neutral is in the main entrance
> > box. You don't care if a nearby lightning strike might cause that
> > bolt to be 200,000 volts from ground for a microsecond during that
> > strike, but the +5 volt line will be 200,005 volts, or 5 volts from
> > what it considers its ground might be at that exact instant.  You
> > will be damaged ONLY if some other point in the circuit breaks down
> > and some of that lightning bolts energy actually flows thru your
> > system to get to that better ground. Block it with air, the more the
> > merrier.
> >
> > > regards
> > >
> > > Andrew
> > >
> > > On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 11:53 AM Leonardo Marsaglia
> > > 
> > >
> > > wrote:
> > > > > Connect all grounds to this bolt, checking that they are not
> > > > > grounded at the far end.  By doing this, you are establishing
> > > > > a single point ground that is the zero volt reference for the
> > > > > whole system. Connect this bolt to the building static ground,
> > > > > the bare wire in most power cabling.
> > > > >
> > > > > Connect the machines frame to this bolt.
> > > > >
> > > > > Connect the - rails of all supplies to this bolt.
> > > > >
> > > > > Connect the - terminals of all cards to this bolt.
> > > > >
> > > > > Break the 3rd pin off the computers supply cable and connect
> > > > > the computers chassis to this bolt. Power the computer not
> > > > > from the wall, but from the same power feeding this box.
> > > > >
> > > > > Connect the shielding of all shielded cabling to this bolt. Do
> > > > > not connect the far end of this shielding to anything that is
> > > > > otherwise grounded.
> > > > >
> > > > > By making sure these grounds are not connected anyplace else
> > > > > you are breaking any ground loops which can and will act as
> > > > > antennas to insert noise into your control signals.
> > > > >
> > > > > By having this single point ground, a nearby lightning strike
> > > > > can inject a 100k volt pulse into the system ground as what
> > > > > would be called a "ground bounce",  but the system will not
> > > > > see it as noise nor be damaged, because everything is bouncing
> > > > > in unison.
> > > > >
> > > > > Regardless of what that bolt does during the strike, the 5
> > > > > volt supply remains at 5 volts to this bolt, and the 24 volt
> > > > > supply remains at 24 volts to this bolt.
> > > > >
> > > > > And when the storm is done, your chances of having anything
> > > > > damaged is reduced to the vanishing point.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for this Gene. It's more than useful to remember how to
> > > > properly ground logic circuits to avoid external noise and
> > > > dangerous voltage spikes.
> > > >
> > > > El jue., 28 may. 2020 a las 20:35, Gene Heskett
> > > > ()
> > > >
> > > > escribió:
> > > > > On Thursday 28 May 2020 18:36:10 andrew beck wrote:
> > > > > > hey gene
> > > > > >
> > > > > > sorry for the slow reply
> > > > > >
> > > > > > just getting to this grounding thing now.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > currently I have single large copper block 

Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 29 May 2020 22:00:00 Gene Heskett wrote:

> On Friday 29 May 2020 21:42:40 andy pugh wrote:
> > On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 02:32, Gene Heskett 
> > wrote:
> >
> > Cura isn't available for debian, so name another slicer.
> >
> >
> >  I think it is, but seems to be 64 bit only.
> >
> > You could try Slic3r
>
> I'll do that, thanks
>
Wow. Installed both hits, 61 dependencies. And apparently has no default 
default options.  And from the man page, must have close to 69! option 
vars to set and save. I think I'll look for a tut.

> Cheers, Gene Heskett


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users]

Some people use only a piece of clean plain window glass with no coating of any 
kind for PLA.

Ivan Miranda uses mirrors on his print beds. He's built several printers, some 
very large. He uses so much PLA that Aprintapro just gives him what he needs, 
as long as he plugs their filament in his videos. They even named the red color 
he uses for everything, "Mirandament". His latest project is a tracked vehicle 
large enough for him to ride inside. Body, tracks, wheels all made from PLA.

On my Monoprice Mini I have a piece of glass from a picture frame, covered with 
one wide sheet of Kapton. I scrub some glue stick on it then gently wipe with a 
wet paper towel. By the time the bed's warmed up the glue dries to an even 
film. Works far better than the blue painter's tape I was using.
Masking tape of any sort needs a wipe with rubbing alcohol to strip the wax 
coating or prints either won't stick at all or worse, pop loose partway through 
a job.

On Friday, May 29, 2020, 12:13:31 PM MDT, Chris Albertson 
 wrote:  
 The only large mass that moves is the table and only in the Y direction.
The extruder moves in the X direction but weighs nearly nothing.  The Z
direction moves about 0.2 mm every few minutes  So if there is any
movement it is near the base near the table.  There is not much mass to
shake the vertical beams

But the reason I bolted the printer to the workbench is to keep the
alignment stable.  Once getting the bed level, moving the printer would
un-level it.  The screws prevents me from moving the printer with my hands.
  If the workbench were a ground granite slab then I guess I would not care
but it is wood and not close to flat.  Guy wires would not help.  What I
cared about was the base warping and changing shape.  You can not pick up a
printer and move it and expect not to have to re-align it.  So I bolted it
down and now it is more stable and will keep alignment for days at a time.

What happens is that a part gets stuck to the build plate and some force is
needed to remove it.  The force applied by my fingers (or a plastic mallet
and plastic putty knife) and moves the printer.  Yes I have to resort to
the mallet frequently.  It is the least-bad option.  I'd rather need to pry
the part off the table then to have it come loose half way though the
print.  But if you use any force you move the printer.  Some people solve
this differently.  Long learning process and then you tend to stick with
whatever works.  
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Re: [Emc-users] mesa 7i76 spindle encoder not counting suddenly

[andrew beck]

ok just a update here.

I connected the field IO 0v to machine ground
I connected the computer chassis to machine ground

I didn't know that I had to test for resistance between machine ground and
dc 0v with the machine turned off.  so powered it straight up..

anyway just waiting for 10 mins now for the power to all seep out so I can
go back and measure resistance

while it was live I took some readings though.  there is very low
resistance (0.00ohms) between field IO power 0v and machine ground.

the between the computer chassis and machine ground block there is very low
resistance

but between the 7i76 logic power and machine ground block there is about 70
ohms while the machine is powered up.

getting a bit lost here but will post back once I measure the machine when
the power is all off.

regards

Andrew

On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 2:36 PM andrew beck 
wrote:

> actually just another question here gene
>
> so following along that analogy you made with the single bolt for all
> ground wires.  if I connect the pc case to the bolt and also the 0v from
> 24v dc outputs,
>
>  does that mean that I don't have to connect between the mesa 7i76 field
> io 0v and logic power 0v?  I think it does.
> just triple checking as things get expensive if I get them wrong and I
> don't want to go down that track
>
> regards
>
> Andrew
>
> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 2:14 PM andrew beck 
> wrote:
>
>> sweet thanks gene
>>
>> I will take your advice and connect the pc chassis to the main ground.
>>
>> I think I will continue to use my grounding blocks for now though as
>> there are about 20 ground cables to connect up and that is getting a bit
>> much for one bolt I think.  hopefully I don't have a problem.  I will let
>> you know if I do haha
>>
>>
>> regards
>>
>> Andrew
>>
>>
>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 2:00 PM Gene Heskett 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On Friday 29 May 2020 21:22:09 andrew beck wrote:
>>>
>>> > thanks guys
>>> >
>>> > just one question about all this gene
>>> >
>>> > why do you suggest breaking the ground off the the computer
>>> > powersupply cable and connecting a ground from the pc chassis to the
>>> > machine main ground?
>>> >
>>> > does the grounding that goes through the cable now good enough?
>>> The computers 3rd wire should remain if its the ONLY ground connection
>>> in
>>> the whole system. But since we power gear thru EMT tubing, and that also
>>> includes a generally better ground, the power cord to the computer
>>> should have that 2nd or 3rd ground removed, and the computers ground
>>> taken back to this common bolt by a direct from its chassis ground wire,
>>> UNLESS the computer is mounted to and mechanically connected to the
>>> frame of the machine and this frame is grounded to that common bolt.
>>>
>>> Anytime you can lift just one of those wires from that bolt, and still
>>> get ground continuity because its grounded someplace else too, is bad
>>> kharma, find that "other" ground and disconnect it.  Once, done well, is
>>> enough.  A shielded cable where the shield is grounded at the far end
>>> can inject many volts of noise, enough to blow the interface card.
>>> Disconnect that far end. That bolt should connect to the power
>>> wirings "static" ground, and the only allowable cross connected point to
>>> the powerline neutral is in the main entrance box. You don't care if a
>>> nearby lightning strike might cause that bolt to be 200,000 volts from
>>> ground for a microsecond during that strike, but the +5 volt line will
>>> be 200,005 volts, or 5 volts from what it considers its ground might be
>>> at that exact instant.  You will be damaged ONLY if some other point in
>>> the circuit breaks down and some of that lightning bolts energy actually
>>> flows thru your system to get to that better ground. Block it with air,
>>> the more the merrier.
>>>
>>> > regards
>>> >
>>> > Andrew
>>> >
>>> > On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 11:53 AM Leonardo Marsaglia
>>> > 
>>> >
>>> > wrote:
>>> > > > Connect all grounds to this bolt, checking that they are not
>>> > > > grounded at the far end.  By doing this, you are establishing a
>>> > > > single point ground that is the zero volt reference for the whole
>>> > > > system. Connect this bolt to the building static ground, the bare
>>> > > > wire in most power cabling.
>>> > > >
>>> > > > Connect the machines frame to this bolt.
>>> > > >
>>> > > > Connect the - rails of all supplies to this bolt.
>>> > > >
>>> > > > Connect the - terminals of all cards to this bolt.
>>> > > >
>>> > > > Break the 3rd pin off the computers supply cable and connect the
>>> > > > computers chassis to this bolt. Power the computer not from the
>>> > > > wall, but from the same power feeding this box.
>>> > > >
>>> > > > Connect the shielding of all shielded cabling to this bolt. Do not
>>> > > > connect the far end of this shielding to anything that is
>>> > > > otherwise grounded.
>>> > > >
>>> > > > By making sure these grounds are not connected anyplace else you
>>> > > > are breaking 

Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Chris Albertson]

I'd place AlibreCAD on the list of "normal" or "modern" 3D CAD systems.
Like a scaled down version of Fusion, or SolidWorks.   The workflow you use
is very conventional.  Except AlibreCAD is "windows only" and not free.

What workflow do you use for getting AlibreCAD designs to the CNC mill?
 Does AlibreCAD have a CAM add-on or is there a 3rd party software.   One
of the things I like about Fusion is that it will directly make g-code for
a mill or lathe.   I would like to hear from others how they go about going
from design to both printing and milling.


On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 7:28 PM John Dammeyer 
wrote:

>
> I use AlibreCAD to draw the item. In this case half of a pulley pattern
> for the mill conversion.I export the file as an STL.  I then load that
> with Repetier which is configured for my printer.  I can turn it and
> position it exactly where I want it on the print bed.  I then slice it and
> save the .gode file.
>


-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users]

If the printer has a network port it should be possible to use it as a network 
printer to send it the sliced gcode file.

There's freeware called Octoprint that runs on a computer (most often a 
Raspberry Pi) that's network connected and that then feeds the gcode to the 
printer. Printers that have built in slicing of STL tend to be  commercial 
machines, unless that capability has filtered down to us peons recently.

   A good thing to do is download some testing STL files (such as a cube, one 
with various features in graduated sizes, and the Benchy boat) then try various 
settings in various slicer programs until you get the test object printing well 
with the filament you're using. Change something about the filament, 
manufacturer, material, fillers etc and it's very likely something will need 
adjusted in settings, at least for temperature.
 
I should check on the progress of a project to design 3D printed CNC conversion 
brackets for a Unimat lathe https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1785310
On Friday, May 29, 2020, 5:51:31 AM MDT, Gene Heskett  
wrote:  
 On Friday 29 May 2020 02:53:55 Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:

I'll check that as I'm assembling it.  Otherwise the fire risk and 
potential odor would seem to be tolerable, at least for a test run for 
effect.

I assume it will accept an .stl file over a cat5 cable?  
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Re: [Emc-users] mesa 7i76 spindle encoder not counting suddenly

[andrew beck]

actually just another question here gene

so following along that analogy you made with the single bolt for all
ground wires.  if I connect the pc case to the bolt and also the 0v from
24v dc outputs,

 does that mean that I don't have to connect between the mesa 7i76 field io
0v and logic power 0v?  I think it does.
just triple checking as things get expensive if I get them wrong and I
don't want to go down that track

regards

Andrew

On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 2:14 PM andrew beck 
wrote:

> sweet thanks gene
>
> I will take your advice and connect the pc chassis to the main ground.
>
> I think I will continue to use my grounding blocks for now though as there
> are about 20 ground cables to connect up and that is getting a bit much for
> one bolt I think.  hopefully I don't have a problem.  I will let you know
> if I do haha
>
>
> regards
>
> Andrew
>
>
> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 2:00 PM Gene Heskett  wrote:
>
>> On Friday 29 May 2020 21:22:09 andrew beck wrote:
>>
>> > thanks guys
>> >
>> > just one question about all this gene
>> >
>> > why do you suggest breaking the ground off the the computer
>> > powersupply cable and connecting a ground from the pc chassis to the
>> > machine main ground?
>> >
>> > does the grounding that goes through the cable now good enough?
>> The computers 3rd wire should remain if its the ONLY ground connection in
>> the whole system. But since we power gear thru EMT tubing, and that also
>> includes a generally better ground, the power cord to the computer
>> should have that 2nd or 3rd ground removed, and the computers ground
>> taken back to this common bolt by a direct from its chassis ground wire,
>> UNLESS the computer is mounted to and mechanically connected to the
>> frame of the machine and this frame is grounded to that common bolt.
>>
>> Anytime you can lift just one of those wires from that bolt, and still
>> get ground continuity because its grounded someplace else too, is bad
>> kharma, find that "other" ground and disconnect it.  Once, done well, is
>> enough.  A shielded cable where the shield is grounded at the far end
>> can inject many volts of noise, enough to blow the interface card.
>> Disconnect that far end. That bolt should connect to the power
>> wirings "static" ground, and the only allowable cross connected point to
>> the powerline neutral is in the main entrance box. You don't care if a
>> nearby lightning strike might cause that bolt to be 200,000 volts from
>> ground for a microsecond during that strike, but the +5 volt line will
>> be 200,005 volts, or 5 volts from what it considers its ground might be
>> at that exact instant.  You will be damaged ONLY if some other point in
>> the circuit breaks down and some of that lightning bolts energy actually
>> flows thru your system to get to that better ground. Block it with air,
>> the more the merrier.
>>
>> > regards
>> >
>> > Andrew
>> >
>> > On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 11:53 AM Leonardo Marsaglia
>> > 
>> >
>> > wrote:
>> > > > Connect all grounds to this bolt, checking that they are not
>> > > > grounded at the far end.  By doing this, you are establishing a
>> > > > single point ground that is the zero volt reference for the whole
>> > > > system. Connect this bolt to the building static ground, the bare
>> > > > wire in most power cabling.
>> > > >
>> > > > Connect the machines frame to this bolt.
>> > > >
>> > > > Connect the - rails of all supplies to this bolt.
>> > > >
>> > > > Connect the - terminals of all cards to this bolt.
>> > > >
>> > > > Break the 3rd pin off the computers supply cable and connect the
>> > > > computers chassis to this bolt. Power the computer not from the
>> > > > wall, but from the same power feeding this box.
>> > > >
>> > > > Connect the shielding of all shielded cabling to this bolt. Do not
>> > > > connect the far end of this shielding to anything that is
>> > > > otherwise grounded.
>> > > >
>> > > > By making sure these grounds are not connected anyplace else you
>> > > > are breaking any ground loops which can and will act as antennas
>> > > > to insert noise into your control signals.
>> > > >
>> > > > By having this single point ground, a nearby lightning strike can
>> > > > inject a 100k volt pulse into the system ground as what would be
>> > > > called a "ground bounce",  but the system will not see it as noise
>> > > > nor be damaged, because everything is bouncing in unison.
>> > > >
>> > > > Regardless of what that bolt does during the strike, the 5 volt
>> > > > supply remains at 5 volts to this bolt, and the 24 volt supply
>> > > > remains at 24 volts to this bolt.
>> > > >
>> > > > And when the storm is done, your chances of having anything
>> > > > damaged is reduced to the vanishing point.
>> > >
>> > > Thanks for this Gene. It's more than useful to remember how to
>> > > properly ground logic circuits to avoid external noise and dangerous
>> > > voltage spikes.
>> > >
>> > > El jue., 28 may. 2020 a las 20:35, Gene Heskett
>> > > ()
>> > >
>> > > 

Re: [Emc-users] mesa 7i76 spindle encoder not counting suddenly

[andrew beck]

sweet thanks gene

I will take your advice and connect the pc chassis to the main ground.

I think I will continue to use my grounding blocks for now though as there
are about 20 ground cables to connect up and that is getting a bit much for
one bolt I think.  hopefully I don't have a problem.  I will let you know
if I do haha


regards

Andrew


On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 2:00 PM Gene Heskett  wrote:

> On Friday 29 May 2020 21:22:09 andrew beck wrote:
>
> > thanks guys
> >
> > just one question about all this gene
> >
> > why do you suggest breaking the ground off the the computer
> > powersupply cable and connecting a ground from the pc chassis to the
> > machine main ground?
> >
> > does the grounding that goes through the cable now good enough?
> The computers 3rd wire should remain if its the ONLY ground connection in
> the whole system. But since we power gear thru EMT tubing, and that also
> includes a generally better ground, the power cord to the computer
> should have that 2nd or 3rd ground removed, and the computers ground
> taken back to this common bolt by a direct from its chassis ground wire,
> UNLESS the computer is mounted to and mechanically connected to the
> frame of the machine and this frame is grounded to that common bolt.
>
> Anytime you can lift just one of those wires from that bolt, and still
> get ground continuity because its grounded someplace else too, is bad
> kharma, find that "other" ground and disconnect it.  Once, done well, is
> enough.  A shielded cable where the shield is grounded at the far end
> can inject many volts of noise, enough to blow the interface card.
> Disconnect that far end. That bolt should connect to the power
> wirings "static" ground, and the only allowable cross connected point to
> the powerline neutral is in the main entrance box. You don't care if a
> nearby lightning strike might cause that bolt to be 200,000 volts from
> ground for a microsecond during that strike, but the +5 volt line will
> be 200,005 volts, or 5 volts from what it considers its ground might be
> at that exact instant.  You will be damaged ONLY if some other point in
> the circuit breaks down and some of that lightning bolts energy actually
> flows thru your system to get to that better ground. Block it with air,
> the more the merrier.
>
> > regards
> >
> > Andrew
> >
> > On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 11:53 AM Leonardo Marsaglia
> > 
> >
> > wrote:
> > > > Connect all grounds to this bolt, checking that they are not
> > > > grounded at the far end.  By doing this, you are establishing a
> > > > single point ground that is the zero volt reference for the whole
> > > > system. Connect this bolt to the building static ground, the bare
> > > > wire in most power cabling.
> > > >
> > > > Connect the machines frame to this bolt.
> > > >
> > > > Connect the - rails of all supplies to this bolt.
> > > >
> > > > Connect the - terminals of all cards to this bolt.
> > > >
> > > > Break the 3rd pin off the computers supply cable and connect the
> > > > computers chassis to this bolt. Power the computer not from the
> > > > wall, but from the same power feeding this box.
> > > >
> > > > Connect the shielding of all shielded cabling to this bolt. Do not
> > > > connect the far end of this shielding to anything that is
> > > > otherwise grounded.
> > > >
> > > > By making sure these grounds are not connected anyplace else you
> > > > are breaking any ground loops which can and will act as antennas
> > > > to insert noise into your control signals.
> > > >
> > > > By having this single point ground, a nearby lightning strike can
> > > > inject a 100k volt pulse into the system ground as what would be
> > > > called a "ground bounce",  but the system will not see it as noise
> > > > nor be damaged, because everything is bouncing in unison.
> > > >
> > > > Regardless of what that bolt does during the strike, the 5 volt
> > > > supply remains at 5 volts to this bolt, and the 24 volt supply
> > > > remains at 24 volts to this bolt.
> > > >
> > > > And when the storm is done, your chances of having anything
> > > > damaged is reduced to the vanishing point.
> > >
> > > Thanks for this Gene. It's more than useful to remember how to
> > > properly ground logic circuits to avoid external noise and dangerous
> > > voltage spikes.
> > >
> > > El jue., 28 may. 2020 a las 20:35, Gene Heskett
> > > ()
> > >
> > > escribió:
> > > > On Thursday 28 May 2020 18:36:10 andrew beck wrote:
> > > > > hey gene
> > > > >
> > > > > sorry for the slow reply
> > > > >
> > > > > just getting to this grounding thing now.
> > > > >
> > > > > currently I have single large copper block with a lot of holes
> > > > > in it for terminals, this is connected to the earth(ground) wire
> > > > > that goes back to the whole shed main ground wire rod in the
> > > > > dirt
> > > > >
> > > > > all my servo drives and vfd main grounds go back to this point
> > > > > as do all motor grounds etc.  this is how heidenhain set up the
> > > > > 

Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 29 May 2020 21:42:40 andy pugh wrote:

> On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 02:32, Gene Heskett 
> wrote:
>
> Cura isn't available for debian, so name another slicer.
>
>
>  I think it is, but seems to be 64 bit only.
>
> You could try Slic3r

I'll do that, thanks

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] mesa 7i76 spindle encoder not counting suddenly

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 29 May 2020 21:22:09 andrew beck wrote:

> thanks guys
>
> just one question about all this gene
>
> why do you suggest breaking the ground off the the computer
> powersupply cable and connecting a ground from the pc chassis to the
> machine main ground?
>
> does the grounding that goes through the cable now good enough?
The computers 3rd wire should remain if its the ONLY ground connection in 
the whole system. But since we power gear thru EMT tubing, and that also 
includes a generally better ground, the power cord to the computer 
should have that 2nd or 3rd ground removed, and the computers ground 
taken back to this common bolt by a direct from its chassis ground wire, 
UNLESS the computer is mounted to and mechanically connected to the 
frame of the machine and this frame is grounded to that common bolt.

Anytime you can lift just one of those wires from that bolt, and still 
get ground continuity because its grounded someplace else too, is bad 
kharma, find that "other" ground and disconnect it.  Once, done well, is 
enough.  A shielded cable where the shield is grounded at the far end 
can inject many volts of noise, enough to blow the interface card. 
Disconnect that far end. That bolt should connect to the power 
wirings "static" ground, and the only allowable cross connected point to 
the powerline neutral is in the main entrance box. You don't care if a 
nearby lightning strike might cause that bolt to be 200,000 volts from 
ground for a microsecond during that strike, but the +5 volt line will 
be 200,005 volts, or 5 volts from what it considers its ground might be 
at that exact instant.  You will be damaged ONLY if some other point in 
the circuit breaks down and some of that lightning bolts energy actually 
flows thru your system to get to that better ground. Block it with air, 
the more the merrier.
 
> regards
>
> Andrew
>
> On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 11:53 AM Leonardo Marsaglia
> 
>
> wrote:
> > > Connect all grounds to this bolt, checking that they are not
> > > grounded at the far end.  By doing this, you are establishing a
> > > single point ground that is the zero volt reference for the whole
> > > system. Connect this bolt to the building static ground, the bare
> > > wire in most power cabling.
> > >
> > > Connect the machines frame to this bolt.
> > >
> > > Connect the - rails of all supplies to this bolt.
> > >
> > > Connect the - terminals of all cards to this bolt.
> > >
> > > Break the 3rd pin off the computers supply cable and connect the
> > > computers chassis to this bolt. Power the computer not from the
> > > wall, but from the same power feeding this box.
> > >
> > > Connect the shielding of all shielded cabling to this bolt. Do not
> > > connect the far end of this shielding to anything that is
> > > otherwise grounded.
> > >
> > > By making sure these grounds are not connected anyplace else you
> > > are breaking any ground loops which can and will act as antennas
> > > to insert noise into your control signals.
> > >
> > > By having this single point ground, a nearby lightning strike can
> > > inject a 100k volt pulse into the system ground as what would be
> > > called a "ground bounce",  but the system will not see it as noise
> > > nor be damaged, because everything is bouncing in unison.
> > >
> > > Regardless of what that bolt does during the strike, the 5 volt
> > > supply remains at 5 volts to this bolt, and the 24 volt supply
> > > remains at 24 volts to this bolt.
> > >
> > > And when the storm is done, your chances of having anything
> > > damaged is reduced to the vanishing point.
> >
> > Thanks for this Gene. It's more than useful to remember how to
> > properly ground logic circuits to avoid external noise and dangerous
> > voltage spikes.
> >
> > El jue., 28 may. 2020 a las 20:35, Gene Heskett
> > ()
> >
> > escribió:
> > > On Thursday 28 May 2020 18:36:10 andrew beck wrote:
> > > > hey gene
> > > >
> > > > sorry for the slow reply
> > > >
> > > > just getting to this grounding thing now.
> > > >
> > > > currently I have single large copper block with a lot of holes
> > > > in it for terminals, this is connected to the earth(ground) wire
> > > > that goes back to the whole shed main ground wire rod in the
> > > > dirt
> > > >
> > > > all my servo drives and vfd main grounds go back to this point
> > > > as do all motor grounds etc.  this is how heidenhain set up the
> > > > machine originally and they have a whole grounding schematic
> > > > showing how it all works.  I have basically copied that.
> > > >
> > > > I have 2 meanwell 24v powersupplies that have the ground wire on
> > > > the input side also connected to ground.  the output side (phase
> > > > and neutral) are floating relative to ground and not connected
> > > > to ground at all I think.  as the meanwell switching powersupply
> > > > output should be isolated from the input.  I think this is
> > > > correct
> > > >
> > > > the computer cord ground wire is currently connected to this

Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[andy pugh]

On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 02:32, Gene Heskett  wrote:

Cura isn't available for debian, so name another slicer.


 I think it is, but seems to be 64 bit only.

You could try Slic3r

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 29 May 2020 20:56:36 andy pugh wrote:

> On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 01:47, Gene Heskett 
> wrote:
>
> But I find that octoprint is part of octopi, which I have just now
>
> > downloaded so now I'll need to obtain a 2nd 2G r-pi4 and basicly
> > duplicate the hardware driving the Sheldon right now. I wasn't
> > counting on that expense but.  Apparently it talks to the printer
> > with some software protocol I've not yet discovered.
>
> You don't need Octoprint. It's a nice way to run the printer through a
> web interface, but it is entirely optional.
>
> Create a model
> save as STL
> Convert to G-code with a Slicer (such as Cura) on the same PC as you
> created the model on.
>
Cura isn't available for debian, so name another slicer.

> 3D printers wouldn't have caught on at all if they all _needed_ 3 more
> computers to make them work.
>
> Take the G-code to the printer on an SD card.
>
> This fellow doing Octoprint, guysoft, came to the pi scene 2 years ago
>
> > with the realtime-pi project,
>
> Octoprint is actually the full-time work of Gina Häußge. Guysoft just
> packages it on the Pi.


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] mesa 7i76 spindle encoder not counting suddenly

[andrew beck]

thanks guys

just one question about all this gene

why do you suggest breaking the ground off the the computer powersupply
cable and connecting a ground from the pc chassis to the machine main
ground?

does the grounding that goes through the cable now good enough?

regards

Andrew

On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 11:53 AM Leonardo Marsaglia 
wrote:

> >
> > Connect all grounds to this bolt, checking that they are not grounded at
> > the far end.  By doing this, you are establishing a single point ground
> > that is the zero volt reference for the whole system. Connect this bolt
> > to the building static ground, the bare wire in most power cabling.
> >
> > Connect the machines frame to this bolt.
> >
> > Connect the - rails of all supplies to this bolt.
> >
> > Connect the - terminals of all cards to this bolt.
> >
> > Break the 3rd pin off the computers supply cable and connect the
> > computers chassis to this bolt. Power the computer not from the wall,
> > but from the same power feeding this box.
> >
> > Connect the shielding of all shielded cabling to this bolt. Do not
> > connect the far end of this shielding to anything that is otherwise
> > grounded.
> >
> > By making sure these grounds are not connected anyplace else you are
> > breaking any ground loops which can and will act as antennas to insert
> > noise into your control signals.
> >
> > By having this single point ground, a nearby lightning strike can inject
> > a 100k volt pulse into the system ground as what would be called
> > a "ground bounce",  but the system will not see it as noise nor be
> > damaged, because everything is bouncing in unison.
> >
> > Regardless of what that bolt does during the strike, the 5 volt supply
> > remains at 5 volts to this bolt, and the 24 volt supply remains at 24
> > volts to this bolt.
> >
> > And when the storm is done, your chances of having anything damaged is
> > reduced to the vanishing point.
>
>
> Thanks for this Gene. It's more than useful to remember how to properly
> ground logic circuits to avoid external noise and dangerous voltage spikes.
>
> El jue., 28 may. 2020 a las 20:35, Gene Heskett ()
> escribió:
>
> > On Thursday 28 May 2020 18:36:10 andrew beck wrote:
> >
> > > hey gene
> > >
> > > sorry for the slow reply
> > >
> > > just getting to this grounding thing now.
> > >
> > > currently I have single large copper block with a lot of holes in it
> > > for terminals, this is connected to the earth(ground) wire that goes
> > > back to the whole shed main ground wire rod in the dirt
> > >
> > > all my servo drives and vfd main grounds go back to this point as do
> > > all motor grounds etc.  this is how heidenhain set up the machine
> > > originally and they have a whole grounding schematic showing how it
> > > all works.  I have basically copied that.
> > >
> > > I have 2 meanwell 24v powersupplies that have the ground wire on the
> > > input side also connected to ground.  the output side (phase and
> > > neutral) are floating relative to ground and not connected to ground
> > > at all I think.  as the meanwell switching powersupply output should
> > > be isolated from the input.  I think this is correct
> > >
> > > the computer cord ground wire is currently connected to this same
> > > large copper block.
> > >
> > The sheer bulk of that copper bother me a bit because it can function as
> > an antenna.  A single bolt, tightened well into the chassis with all the
> > connections stacked up on this bolt will be quieter.
> >
> > > my computer via the 5i25 currently supplies 5v logic power to the 7i76
> > Thats fine, but if using a std bob on the other 5i25 port, do NOT enable
> > the jumper for that port as the bobs std grounding will short circuit
> > that, you must supply a separated 5 volts to that bob, or plug in a usb
> > cable to steal it from the pc's usb circuitry,
> > >
> > > and one of the 24v meanwell powersupplys supplies the 24v field io for
> > > the 7i76
> > I have all supplies - outputs tied to ground.  It might work 99% of the
> > time without it, till the first nearby lightning strike...  With all
> > that grounded, it will probably keep right on working after the strike.
> >
> > > my encoder problems started when I connected up the servo drive
> > > simulated encoder output to the 7i76 encoder counter.  I haven't
> > > connected the 5v and 24 v grounds together.  they did work for awhile
> > > but don't now
> >
> > Tie the -'s to the ground bolt. Then do a full powerdown on the whole
> > thing, with about a 10 count in the dark, then boot everything back up
> > and test it.  And report what you get now...
> >
> > > I have a 7i89 and 7i84 coming soon and will need a external 5v
> > > powersupply anyway i think so will change when they arrive here from
> > > america.
> > >
> > > anyway I read your reply and got a bit confused could you read my
> > > email here and let me know what I need to change and why I should do
> > > it this way just so I understand.
> >
> > Basicly, your 

Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Greg Bernard]

The slicing can be done on your desktop machine directly after you create
your stl.
No need for a 3rd computer in the chain.

On Fri, May 29, 2020, 7:47 PM Gene Heskett  wrote:

> On Friday 29 May 2020 19:23:58 Chris Albertson wrote:
>
> > Let's say you had one of THESE https://a360.co/2RLRoxw (be sure and
> > try the "explode" control and slider.  It is VERY impressive, no not
> > my work) and wanted to adapt it for use with LinuxCNC by adding
> > motors.
> >
> > So your first step is to replace the lead screw with a zero-backlash
> > ball screw and make mounts of the screw's nut on the carriage and
> > verify all the clearance. This is the entire point of 3D model is
> > as shown in the above link.   I can verify the entire design before
> > making a part. I can answer questions like "where do the glass
> > slides go and how to route the cables?"  I can add the slides to the
> > model and move the parts to verify clearances.
> >
> > How to do that with OpenSCAD?   Can you even say things like "make
> > this new part to mate with that existing part" or must you make the
> > new part from scratch using measurements pulled from the existing
> > part?
> >
> > Motorizing the BS1 is EXACTLY this process, you start with a stock BS1
> > then change out some parts, verify it all works then print and cut the
> > parts. You REALLY want the ability to test-fit and fix and have that
> > take about a minute at most.   openscad is such an unusual and
> > specialized product I'd hate to recommend it for general design work..
> >  But it is good for making a single standalone parameterized part.
> > Like a gear but not a motorcycle or a milling machine.
> >
> In this case, openscad gives me the tools I want right now, and I could
> even do a set of gears for stage 2 of the reduction since that spacing
> is almost too close for a belt coupling. So by using the correct tooth
> profiles it could make a very usefull gearset, no belt at all, and a
> higher reduction at the same time. But would those teeth be strong
> enough. Worth a try IMO. And a swarf cover from the printer should be
> doable.
>
> But I find that octoprint is part of octopi, which I have just now
> downloaded so now I'll need to obtain a 2nd 2G r-pi4 and basicly
> duplicate the hardware driving the Sheldon right now. I wasn't counting
> on that expense but.  Apparently it talks to the printer with some
> software protocol I've not yet discovered.
>
> Hopefully it won't require another mesa card.  Or I'm confused. At one
> point it was said I could take the .stl file to the printer on an sd
> card. Now you folks want me to buy another pi to do the slicing.
>
> plz clarify. I have the pi3b I took out of the Sheldon, and at the github
> page its says it will work, but the pi4 is many times faster than a 3.
>
> This fellow doing Octoprint, guysoft, came to the pi scene 2 years ago
> with the realtime-pi project, but about the time they got the new faster
> video drivers, dissappeared again, which is why I had to build my own
> preempt-rt kernel from scratch for the Sheldon.  Then I couldn't just
> make a deb and install it, so I figured out how to make a 30 meg tarball
> out of the important stuff, installed that with a card reader, and its
> working great. 16 u-secs latency-test's.
>
> Thanks for any clarifications.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
>  - Louis D. Brandeis
> Genes Web page 
>
>
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> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[andy pugh]

On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 01:47, Gene Heskett  wrote:

But I find that octoprint is part of octopi, which I have just now
> downloaded so now I'll need to obtain a 2nd 2G r-pi4 and basicly
> duplicate the hardware driving the Sheldon right now. I wasn't counting
> on that expense but.  Apparently it talks to the printer with some
> software protocol I've not yet discovered.


You don't need Octoprint. It's a nice way to run the printer through a web
interface, but it is entirely optional.

Create a model
save as STL
Convert to G-code with a Slicer (such as Cura) on the same PC as you
created the model on.

3D printers wouldn't have caught on at all if they all _needed_ 3 more
computers to make them work.

Take the G-code to the printer on an SD card.

This fellow doing Octoprint, guysoft, came to the pi scene 2 years ago
> with the realtime-pi project,


Octoprint is actually the full-time work of Gina Häußge. Guysoft just
packages it on the Pi.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 29 May 2020 19:23:58 Chris Albertson wrote:

> Let's say you had one of THESE https://a360.co/2RLRoxw (be sure and
> try the "explode" control and slider.  It is VERY impressive, no not
> my work) and wanted to adapt it for use with LinuxCNC by adding
> motors.
>
> So your first step is to replace the lead screw with a zero-backlash
> ball screw and make mounts of the screw's nut on the carriage and
> verify all the clearance. This is the entire point of 3D model is
> as shown in the above link.   I can verify the entire design before
> making a part. I can answer questions like "where do the glass
> slides go and how to route the cables?"  I can add the slides to the
> model and move the parts to verify clearances.
>
> How to do that with OpenSCAD?   Can you even say things like "make
> this new part to mate with that existing part" or must you make the
> new part from scratch using measurements pulled from the existing
> part?
>
> Motorizing the BS1 is EXACTLY this process, you start with a stock BS1
> then change out some parts, verify it all works then print and cut the
> parts. You REALLY want the ability to test-fit and fix and have that
> take about a minute at most.   openscad is such an unusual and
> specialized product I'd hate to recommend it for general design work..
>  But it is good for making a single standalone parameterized part. 
> Like a gear but not a motorcycle or a milling machine.
>
In this case, openscad gives me the tools I want right now, and I could 
even do a set of gears for stage 2 of the reduction since that spacing 
is almost too close for a belt coupling. So by using the correct tooth 
profiles it could make a very usefull gearset, no belt at all, and a 
higher reduction at the same time. But would those teeth be strong 
enough. Worth a try IMO. And a swarf cover from the printer should be 
doable.

But I find that octoprint is part of octopi, which I have just now 
downloaded so now I'll need to obtain a 2nd 2G r-pi4 and basicly 
duplicate the hardware driving the Sheldon right now. I wasn't counting 
on that expense but.  Apparently it talks to the printer with some 
software protocol I've not yet discovered.

Hopefully it won't require another mesa card.  Or I'm confused. At one 
point it was said I could take the .stl file to the printer on an sd 
card. Now you folks want me to buy another pi to do the slicing.

plz clarify. I have the pi3b I took out of the Sheldon, and at the github 
page its says it will work, but the pi4 is many times faster than a 3.

This fellow doing Octoprint, guysoft, came to the pi scene 2 years ago 
with the realtime-pi project, but about the time they got the new faster 
video drivers, dissappeared again, which is why I had to build my own 
preempt-rt kernel from scratch for the Sheldon.  Then I couldn't just 
make a deb and install it, so I figured out how to make a 30 meg tarball 
out of the important stuff, installed that with a card reader, and its 
working great. 16 u-secs latency-test's.

Thanks for any clarifications.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Chris Albertson]

Let's say you had one of THESE https://a360.co/2RLRoxw (be sure and try
the "explode" control and slider.  It is VERY impressive, no not my work)
and wanted to adapt it for use with LinuxCNC by adding motors.

So your first step is to replace the lead screw with a zero-backlash ball
screw and make mounts of the screw's nut on the carriage and verify all the
clearance. This is the entire point of 3D model is as shown in the
above link.   I can verify the entire design before making a part. I
can answer questions like "where do the glass slides go and how to route
the cables?"  I can add the slides to the model and move the parts to
verify clearances.

How to do that with OpenSCAD?   Can you even say things like "make this new
part to mate with that existing part" or must you make the new part from
scratch using measurements pulled from the existing part?

Motorizing the BS1 is EXACTLY this process, you start with a stock BS1 then
change out some parts, verify it all works then print and cut the parts.
You REALLY want the ability to test-fit and fix and have that take about a
minute at most.   openscad is such an unusual and specialized product I'd
hate to recommend it for general design work..  But it is good for making a
single standalone parameterized part.  Like a gear but not a motorcycle or
a milling machine.

On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 1:10 PM Lawrence Glaister  wrote:

> On 2020-05-29 12:09 p.m., Gene Heskett wrote:
>
>  >
>  > And I just heard a vehicle stop and when I got to the front door, there
>  > was a box with an amazon label on it, with two spools of pla and a bag
>  > of spare nozzles in it.  So its starting to trickle in. Surprise, each
>  > spool of pla includes a new hot plate cover.  Overture brand.  Do they
>  > all include that?
>  >
>  > Thanks.
>  >
>  > Cheers, Gene Heskett
>  >
>
> Hi Gene,
> I have been playing with a Creality cr-10 mini for a couple of years.
> When I first bought it, I wasn't sure what I would use it for, but I
> wanted to explore the technology. You are in for a fun ride but it takes
> patience and a little experimenting when things go wrong.
> Using linux, I use the following tools:
>   stl  gcode  usb serial
> OPENSCAD --> CURA --> REPETIERHOST --> 3D printer
> design   cam  stream gcode to machine
>
> openscad is like a little scripting language where you describe your
> part geometry.
> openscad exports stl files (triangular surface models)
> cura takes the stl file and converts it to gcode that moves the
> printhead around and controls the plastic extrusion nozzle.
> You can put the gcode file on an sd card and plug it into the printer or
> I use repetier host as a gui that draws pretty pictures as it streams
> the gcode to the printer. The gcode files are quite large as everything
> is repeated a lot as the approx 0.2mm layers of plastic are piled up.
>
> some of the little gadgets I have designed for my projects:
> https://www.thingiverse.com/ve7it/designs
>
> I also have used the overture filament... seems to do the trick!
> I dont use the hot plate cover.. I used to print on the glass bed, but
> recently I have been using 2" wide blue painters tape on the bed as it
> does tend to grip the objects well and can be replaced if it gets
> damaged when prying off a part. It leaves a nice texture on the bottom
> of the part.
>
> The biggest challenge in getting a print to work is getting the first
> layer printed and stuck to the base material. Mostly this involves
> getting the bed height adjusted properly so the first layer sticks
> evenly. (bed leveling and height adjustment). There are lots of software
> adjustments in cura, but if you select a PLA profile, the defaults will
> be close to getting you a good print youtube is quite helpful if you
> run into issues.
>
> Have fun
>
> cheers
> Lawrence
> Nanoose Bay BC, Canada
>
>
> ___
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> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>


-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[andy pugh]

On Fri, 29 May 2020 at 22:57, Gene Heskett  wrote:

unforch, neither Cura  nor Octoprint can be found in the debian stretch
> repo's.
>

Neither can LinuxCNC.

What would that be called on linux?


https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura
https://octoprint.org

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 29 May 2020 17:48:26 andy pugh wrote:

> On Fri, 29 May 2020 at 22:26, Gene Heskett 
> wrote:
>
> And where do I get this Octoprint, its not in the stretch repo's.
>
> > https://octoprint.org/download/
>
> But I would suggest skipping it for now, Cura on your Desktop PC to SD
> card is a shorter route to Yoda heads and little boats.

But that isn't in the debian repo's either.

Thanks.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 29 May 2020 17:46:09 andy pugh wrote:

> On Fri, 29 May 2020 at 22:14, Gene Heskett 
> wrote:
>
> if the stl file is carried to the printer, then cura or similar is
>
> > running on the printer.
>
> No, sorry, I forgot a stage.
>
> In my case Fusion360 and Cura both run on my Mac. Cura know how to
> send the G-code to Octoprint. It can probably also send the g-code to
> your printer, but it can certainly put it on an SD card.
>
> You can (sometimes) slice on the printer. And you can slice in
> Octoprint, bit it probably isn't worth doing. Cura on the CAD Desktop
> is the way to go. See Cura as a specialised CAM package.

unforch, neither Cura  nor Octoprint can be found in the debian stretch 
repo's.

What would that be called on linux?

Thanks


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[andy pugh]

On Fri, 29 May 2020 at 22:26, Gene Heskett  wrote:

And where do I get this Octoprint, its not in the stretch repo's.
>
> https://octoprint.org/download/

But I would suggest skipping it for now, Cura on your Desktop PC to SD card
is a shorter route to Yoda heads and little boats.


-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[andy pugh]

On Fri, 29 May 2020 at 22:14, Gene Heskett  wrote:

if the stl file is carried to the printer, then cura or similar is
> running on the printer.


No, sorry, I forgot a stage.

In my case Fusion360 and Cura both run on my Mac. Cura know how to send the
G-code to Octoprint. It can probably also send the g-code to your printer,
but it can certainly put it on an SD card.

You can (sometimes) slice on the printer. And you can slice in Octoprint,
bit it probably isn't worth doing. Cura on the CAD Desktop is the way to
go. See Cura as a specialised CAM package.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 29 May 2020 16:59:49 John Dammeyer wrote:

> > -Original Message-
> > From: andy pugh [mailto:bodge...@gmail.com]
> > Sent: May-29-20 1:48 PM
> > To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> > Subject: Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone
> >
> > On Fri, 29 May 2020 at 21:10, Lawrence Glaister  
wrote:
> > > Using linux, I use the following tools:
> > >   stl  gcode  usb serial
> > > OPENSCAD --> CURA --> REPETIERHOST --> 3D printer
> > > design   cam  stream gcode to machine
> >
> > I use Octoprint, running on a Pi inside the printed case. It gives
> > me a Wifi connection to the printer and a webcam and control
> > interface that I can see from any web browser on the  house network.
>
> Me too.  Mine's a Pi2 now wired rather than WiFi.  Over the last year
> the number of WiFi devices out there has gone up by almost a factor of
> 10 and I found I'd lose video feed.  Now with a wired connection I can
> use Octoprint and watch.
>
And where do I get this Octoprint, its not in the stretch repo's.

Thanks.

> John Dammeyer
>
> > But, to start, I would suggest CAD -> STL on SD card and walk that
> > to the printer.
> >
> > --
> > atp
> > "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
> > designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
> > lunatics." � George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912
> >
> > ___
> > Emc-users mailing list
> > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>
> ___
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[andy pugh]

On Fri, 29 May 2020 at 21:48, andy pugh  wrote:

>
> But, to start, I would suggest CAD -> STL on SD card and walk that to the
> printer.
>

Forget that. It is unlikely that the printer is good at slicing, if it does
it at all.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 29 May 2020 16:48:18 andy pugh wrote:

> On Fri, 29 May 2020 at 21:10, Lawrence Glaister  
wrote:
> > Using linux, I use the following tools:
> >   stl  gcode  usb serial
> > OPENSCAD --> CURA --> REPETIERHOST --> 3D printer
> > design   cam  stream gcode to machine
>
> I use Octoprint, running on a Pi inside the printed case. It gives me
> a Wifi connection to the printer and a webcam and control interface
> that I can see from any web browser on the  house network.
>
> But, to start, I would suggest CAD -> STL on SD card and walk that to
> the printer.

if the stl file is carried to the printer, then cura or similar is 
running on the printer.

Thanks

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 29 May 2020 16:07:32 Lawrence Glaister wrote:

> On 2020-05-29 12:09 p.m., Gene Heskett wrote:
>  > And I just heard a vehicle stop and when I got to the front door,
>  > there was a box with an amazon label on it, with two spools of pla
>  > and a bag of spare nozzles in it.  So its starting to trickle in.
>  > Surprise, each spool of pla includes a new hot plate cover. 
>  > Overture brand.  Do they all include that?
>  >
>  > Thanks.
>  >
>  > Cheers, Gene Heskett
>
> Hi Gene,
> I have been playing with a Creality cr-10 mini for a couple of years.
> When I first bought it, I wasn't sure what I would use it for, but I
> wanted to explore the technology. You are in for a fun ride but it
> takes patience and a little experimenting when things go wrong.
> Using linux, I use the following tools:
>   stl  gcode  usb serial
> OPENSCAD --> CURA --> REPETIERHOST --> 3D printer
> design   cam  stream gcode to machine
>
> openscad is like a little scripting language where you describe your
> part geometry.
> openscad exports stl files (triangular surface models)

> cura takes the stl file and converts it to gcode that moves the
> printhead around and controls the plastic extrusion nozzle.

What I was asking. not too well, is what does this "cura" run on?, the 
printer or some computer I need to buy to complete the data chain 
between openscad and the printer?  Or can I run it on this linux box? 
Then export that gcode over cat5 to the printer.

> You can put the gcode file on an sd card and plug it into the printer
> or I use repetier host as a gui that draws pretty pictures as it
> streams the gcode to the printer. The gcode files are quite large as
> everything is repeated a lot as the approx 0.2mm layers of plastic are
> piled up.

I figure they are, much of what code generators produce that runs to 
several gigs per part, can also be produced by a 100 line gcode file 
using loops.  The diff at the part level isn't, but one can be gigabytes 
where the other might be 4000 characters. Your own optical encoder wheel 
is a good example, I've further modified it and used it, several tines 
now.  Thank you.
>
> some of the little gadgets I have designed for my projects:
> https://www.thingiverse.com/ve7it/designs
>
> I also have used the overture filament... seems to do the trick!
> I dont use the hot plate cover.. I used to print on the glass bed, but
> recently I have been using 2" wide blue painters tape on the bed as it
> does tend to grip the objects well and can be replaced if it gets
> damaged when prying off a part. It leaves a nice texture on the bottom
> of the part.
>
> The biggest challenge in getting a print to work is getting the first
> layer printed and stuck to the base material. Mostly this involves
> getting the bed height adjusted properly so the first layer sticks
> evenly. (bed leveling and height adjustment). There are lots of
> software adjustments in cura, but if you select a PLA profile, the
> defaults will be close to getting you a good print youtube is
> quite helpful if you run into issues.
>
> Have fun
>
> cheers
> Lawrence
> Nanoose Bay BC, Canada
>
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[John Dammeyer]

> -Original Message-
> From: andy pugh [mailto:bodge...@gmail.com]
> Sent: May-29-20 1:48 PM
> To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone
> 
> On Fri, 29 May 2020 at 21:10, Lawrence Glaister  wrote:
> 
> >
> > Using linux, I use the following tools:
> >   stl  gcode  usb serial
> > OPENSCAD --> CURA --> REPETIERHOST --> 3D printer
> > design   cam  stream gcode to machine
> >
> 
> I use Octoprint, running on a Pi inside the printed case. It gives me a
> Wifi connection to the printer and a webcam and control interface that I
> can see from any web browser on the  house network.

Me too.  Mine's a Pi2 now wired rather than WiFi.  Over the last year the 
number of WiFi devices out there has gone up by almost a factor of 10 and I 
found I'd lose video feed.  Now with a wired connection I can use Octoprint and 
watch.  

John Dammeyer

> 
> But, to start, I would suggest CAD -> STL on SD card and walk that to the
> printer.
> 
> --
> atp
> "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
> for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
> � George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912
> 
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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[andy pugh]

On Fri, 29 May 2020 at 21:10, Lawrence Glaister  wrote:

>
> Using linux, I use the following tools:
>   stl  gcode  usb serial
> OPENSCAD --> CURA --> REPETIERHOST --> 3D printer
> design   cam  stream gcode to machine
>

I use Octoprint, running on a Pi inside the printed case. It gives me a
Wifi connection to the printer and a webcam and control interface that I
can see from any web browser on the  house network.

But, to start, I would suggest CAD -> STL on SD card and walk that to the
printer.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Chris Albertson]

About that 8GB Raspberry Pi4.  I think it might be over kill for a machine
controller unless you like runing a webbrowser and waching Youtube whie the
mill is cutting.  Notice the 8GB is $75 and the 2GB is $35.   There is
a robotic list I'm on ad the question was Which is faster two $35 Pi4 or
one $75 Pi4.   I am very sure that for the robot use case I'd get better
performance for $70.  Likley also for the machinist who wants to watch
Ytube whie cutting metal, Save $5 and get twice as much CPU power.

The $75 8GB Pi4 is perfect for the person who wants a desktop PC.  That is
the target user for this.

If yu need a cheap PC  Yo can buy quad-core Xeon systems for under $100 now
https://www.newegg.com/hp-proliant-dl380-g7-639828-005-rack/p/N82E16859107039
The Pi4 is great if you have very limited space or must run on battery
power.   Good for robots.   But I don't see the point if there is an AC
mains wall socket nearby. and you are installing inside something as big as
an office.   These 1U size servers are selling for pennies on the dollar
when they come off-lease and are PERFECT for industrial uses like CNC.






 After downloading the part's CAD file.  You import it to your CAD
software.   You have a wide choice in selecting CAD software.  I use Fusion
360.  Fusion runs only on Windows and Mac.   For a Linux system the best
option is https://www.onshape.com and many people will argue it is simply
the best option in any case.I'd argue for Fusion if you also have CNC
tools.   Either is a full pro-level solution.

My test for choosing CAD is to ask yourself if you could see yourself
making something as complex as a cordless drill after 4 or  months of
study.   Very few free CAD systems are that good.


After re-working the file to make it better fit your needs save it as an
STL.

If you download a part it might need modification to make it easier to
print.   For example, the timing pulley has a slightly concave top
surface.  I made it dead-flat so that I could print it on a flat build
plate with no support under it.   I wanted thicker flanges too as the 1.5
mm would be fine in metal but to flexible in plastic.   The set screw was
M3 and in plastic M4 is better.  Some times the part is awkward to print
and has to be cut, printed and then glued.  In general you need to be
decent with your CAD system.   All good CAD system have on-line classes and
it is worth doing them.

CAD files are editable and contain the structure of the part and have
things inside line "M4" size threads and filets and logical stuff.  STL is
"just triangles" and all the "designer's intent" of the part is gone.  STL
files are just approximations of the shape with zero structure.  So saving
to STL is a one-way process.   Yes STL is only an approximate shape as all
the curves are converted to triangles.

Next you need to turn STL into g-code.   Everyone here knows what g-code
is.  But for printing the printer makes  layer after layer each about 0.1
or 0.2 mm tall. so the g-code files are huge with millions of lines of
code.  You need "slicer" software.  Again there are many.  I
like "Cura".   Cura runs on Window/Mac/Linux.

Cura allows a beginner to use some defaults and is very much automatic.
 but also you can find HUNDREDS of parameters and editing options to make
changes to the way an object is printed.The STL file only defines the
exterior surface.   Cura allows you to specify which side is up and down,
the skin thickness and what is to go inside th object.  you can set
quality, speed and temperatures and well over 100 other things. Then
they added the abilty to have different setting for different parts of the
object so now I find I use thicker plastic for areas with more stress.

Then yu need to get the g-code into the printer.   Most printers will have
a slot for an SD card.  Copy the g-code to an SD and walk it over to
the printer.  Yes you can connect the PC to the printer with USB but do you
really want to tie up a PC for many hours?  Just use an SD card and there
is then ZERO chance a PC glitch will ruin an hours-long print.  Printing
from an SD card is more reliable.

Back to the sproket.Of late I just hollow out the gear or pulley with a
(say) 20mm hole.   Then make a 20mm OD bushing to fet the shaft in metal.
Press fit the two together.I've not found a reliable way to transfor
torge from a 6mm metal shaft to a PLA printed gear and have it last.

My next idea is to buy a steel bolt with a hex head and make the bushing
from that so I can print a hex shat to fit the head.   In any case metal
hubs work best and plastic gear tech work surprizinging well.  my plastic
gears tend to fail at the hub.


On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 11:22 AM Thaddeus Waldner 
wrote:

>
> > I've dl'd that sprocket file, now what do I do with it to make a
> > printable .stl? _Unpack it, see openscad mentioned, install openscad and
> > friends, explore. For single sheeve, looks great.  Obviously will need
> > to figure out how to do 

Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Lawrence Glaister]

On 2020-05-29 12:09 p.m., Gene Heskett wrote:

>
> And I just heard a vehicle stop and when I got to the front door, there
> was a box with an amazon label on it, with two spools of pla and a bag
> of spare nozzles in it.  So its starting to trickle in. Surprise, each
> spool of pla includes a new hot plate cover.  Overture brand.  Do they
> all include that?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
>

Hi Gene,
I have been playing with a Creality cr-10 mini for a couple of years. 
When I first bought it, I wasn't sure what I would use it for, but I 
wanted to explore the technology. You are in for a fun ride but it takes 
patience and a little experimenting when things go wrong.

Using linux, I use the following tools:
 stl  gcode  usb serial
OPENSCAD --> CURA --> REPETIERHOST --> 3D printer
design   cam  stream gcode to machine

openscad is like a little scripting language where you describe your 
part geometry.

openscad exports stl files (triangular surface models)
cura takes the stl file and converts it to gcode that moves the 
printhead around and controls the plastic extrusion nozzle.
You can put the gcode file on an sd card and plug it into the printer or 
I use repetier host as a gui that draws pretty pictures as it streams 
the gcode to the printer. The gcode files are quite large as everything 
is repeated a lot as the approx 0.2mm layers of plastic are piled up.


some of the little gadgets I have designed for my projects: 
https://www.thingiverse.com/ve7it/designs


I also have used the overture filament... seems to do the trick!
I dont use the hot plate cover.. I used to print on the glass bed, but 
recently I have been using 2" wide blue painters tape on the bed as it 
does tend to grip the objects well and can be replaced if it gets 
damaged when prying off a part. It leaves a nice texture on the bottom 
of the part.


The biggest challenge in getting a print to work is getting the first 
layer printed and stuck to the base material. Mostly this involves
getting the bed height adjusted properly so the first layer sticks 
evenly. (bed leveling and height adjustment). There are lots of software 
adjustments in cura, but if you select a PLA profile, the defaults will 
be close to getting you a good print youtube is quite helpful if you 
run into issues.


Have fun

cheers
Lawrence
Nanoose Bay BC, Canada


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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 29 May 2020 14:52:21 Gene Heskett wrote:

> On Friday 29 May 2020 14:20:58 Thaddeus Waldner wrote:
> > > I've dl'd that sprocket file, now what do I do with it to make a
> > > printable .stl? _Unpack it, see openscad mentioned, install
> > > openscad and friends, explore. For single sheeve, looks great. 
> > > Obviously will need to figure out how to do hubless & bolt 2
> > > together as central idler over a pair of skate bearings.  Looks as
> > > if it should work if the printer does its job.
> >
> > I believe you need to  render the part, then export the .stl. That
> > file is pretty well documented and I suppose after a lot of the
> > “explore” piece, a guy could get fluent in that language and coax it
> > to build ideas. Me, The biggest thing I’ve done is modify this file
> > to create a custom belt profile for a replacement pulley in a sewing
> > machine. This company went with a belt that looks like a HD profile
> > but with a 0.2” pitch...
> >
> > > Probably watching paint dry fun. :-) A potential problem, possibly
> > > fixable by putting the grub screws at 180 degrees, is the double
> > > d-flat on the worm shaft unless theres an option to do that to a
> > > round hole.
> >
> > I used a pair of screws at 180 degrees to keep the pulley from
> > flexing sideways too much when it’s clamped.
>
> Those flats are big enough that one could use 4 screws per side, and
> get a really rigid mount. Getting 2 axially aligned in one test render
> I did, didn't work. It apparently put both nuts in the same physical
> space. You can do that in video, but steel doesn't work that way. ;-)
>
> I'm assuming that the .stl to motion driver is included, but I see in
> one of the later videos he is touting a new case for an r-pi4, and
> just today, the r-pi folks have announced an r-pi4 with 8GB of dram at
> $75 bucks. I'm running that Sheldon very nicely with a 2GB rpi4 and an
> armhf kernel built for preempt-rt. That will obviously need a 64 bit
> kernel to use that much dram. Whats in it now for an .stl  rendering
> engine?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett

And I just heard a vehicle stop and when I got to the front door, there 
was a box with an amazon label on it, with two spools of pla and a bag 
of spare nozzles in it.  So its starting to trickle in. Surprise, each 
spool of pla includes a new hot plate cover.  Overture brand.  Do they 
all include that?

Thanks.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 29 May 2020 14:20:58 Thaddeus Waldner wrote:

> > I've dl'd that sprocket file, now what do I do with it to make a
> > printable .stl? _Unpack it, see openscad mentioned, install openscad
> > and friends, explore. For single sheeve, looks great.  Obviously
> > will need to figure out how to do hubless & bolt 2 together as
> > central idler over a pair of skate bearings.  Looks as if it should
> > work if the printer does its job.
>
> I believe you need to  render the part, then export the .stl. That
> file is pretty well documented and I suppose after a lot of the
> “explore” piece, a guy could get fluent in that language and coax it
> to build ideas. Me, The biggest thing I’ve done is modify this file to
> create a custom belt profile for a replacement pulley in a sewing
> machine. This company went with a belt that looks like a HD profile
> but with a 0.2” pitch...
>
> > Probably watching paint dry fun. :-) A potential problem, possibly
> > fixable by putting the grub screws at 180 degrees, is the double
> > d-flat on the worm shaft unless theres an option to do that to a
> > round hole.
>
> I used a pair of screws at 180 degrees to keep the pulley from flexing
> sideways too much when it’s clamped.
>
Those flats are big enough that one could use 4 screws per side, and get 
a really rigid mount. Getting 2 axially aligned in one test render I 
did, didn't work. It apparently put both nuts in the same physical 
space. You can do that in video, but steel doesn't work that way. ;-)

I'm assuming that the .stl to motion driver is included, but I see in one 
of the later videos he is touting a new case for an r-pi4, and just 
today, the r-pi folks have announced an r-pi4 with 8GB of dram at $75 
bucks. I'm running that Sheldon very nicely with a 2GB rpi4 and an armhf 
kernel built for preempt-rt. That will obviously need a 64 bit kernel to 
use that much dram. Whats in it now for an .stl  rendering engine?

Thanks.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Thaddeus Waldner]

> I've dl'd that sprocket file, now what do I do with it to make a 
> printable .stl? _Unpack it, see openscad mentioned, install openscad and 
> friends, explore. For single sheeve, looks great.  Obviously will need 
> to figure out how to do hubless & bolt 2 together as central idler over 
> a pair of skate bearings.  Looks as if it should work if the printer 
> does its job.

I believe you need to  render the part, then export the .stl. That file is 
pretty well documented and I suppose after a lot of the “explore” piece, a guy 
could get fluent in that language and coax it to build ideas. Me, The biggest 
thing I’ve done is modify this file to create a custom belt profile for a 
replacement pulley in a sewing machine. This company went with a belt that 
looks like a HD profile but with a 0.2” pitch...

> 
> Probably watching paint dry fun. :-) A potential problem, possibly 
> fixable by putting the grub screws at 180 degrees, is the double d-flat 
> on the worm shaft unless theres an option to do that to a round hole.

I used a pair of screws at 180 degrees to keep the pulley from flexing sideways 
too much when it’s clamped.



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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Chris Albertson]

The only large mass that moves is the table and only in the Y direction.
The extruder moves in the X direction but weighs nearly nothing.  The Z
direction moves about 0.2 mm every few minutes   So if there is any
movement it is near the base near the table.  There is not much mass to
shake the vertical beams

But the reason I bolted the printer to the workbench is to keep the
alignment stable.  Once getting the bed level, moving the printer would
un-level it.  The screws prevents me from moving the printer with my hands.
  If the workbench were a ground granite slab then I guess I would not care
but it is wood and not close to flat.   Guy wires would not help.  What I
cared about was the base warping and changing shape.  You can not pick up a
printer and move it and expect not to have to re-align it.   So I bolted it
down and now it is more stable and will keep alignment for days at a time.

What happens is that a part gets stuck to the build plate and some force is
needed to remove it.   The force applied by my fingers (or a plastic mallet
and plastic putty knife) and moves the printer.   Yes I have to resort to
the mallet frequently.  It is the least-bad option.  I'd rather need to pry
the part off the table then to have it come loose half way though the
print.  But if you use any force you move the printer.   Some people solve
this differently.   Long learning process and then you tend to stick with
whatever works.



On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 9:55 AM Gene Heskett  wrote:

> On Friday 29 May 2020 12:20:39 Chris Albertson wrote:
>
> > The Ender printers are well thought out and lack most of the dumb
> > problems of older Prusia clone printers.   But still, there are cables
> > that attach moving to non-moving parts and after flexing 20 times a
> > minute for years will break.  The printer is open source and there
> > are forums if problems come up.
> >
> > The first thing most new 3D printer owners print are upgrades for
> > their new printer.
>
> 1; Usually these are a filament guide to feed the
> > filament over sharp edges and some braces to make the printer
> > structure more rigid,
> 2; link to fora or where ever this stuff can be downloaded as .stl files?
> > housing for the electronics, cable clamps, and
> > hold-down clamps so the printer can be screwed to a workbench.
>
> Does it shake rattle and roll that badly that it needs the mass of a well
> built workbench to do _good_ work? Seems to me 4 guy wires with
> turnbuckle tensioners, two from each end of the top frame rail should
> brace it adequately.
>
> > The
> > on-line groups advised me that my A6 printer had a problem were a
> > small connector was used for a big current and would melt and catch
> > fire.   But they kept re-posting this long after the manufacturer
> > fixed this problem.   That is what happens with even this group.   We
> > re-post what we read years ago.
> >
> All of which serves to edycate the neucomer. Speeling mysteaks expected.
>
> > The printer is as complex as a CNC mill and takes a while before you
> > can learn to use it.  There is a long software workflow too from an
> > idea in your head to finished parts and unlike a mill, there is no
> > option to turn the handwheels manually.
>
> Thats probably my biggest concern as this will truly be the first time I
> have trusted a code generator to do what I want. I have up till now,
> either modified gcode to do what I want, or written it myself.
>
> Sometimes with a lot of help, you know who you are, and many thanks for
> that.  I owe many of you a hand cooler if we ever meet in person!
>
> > On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 11:56 PM Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users <
> >
> > emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net> wrote:
> > > I've never noticed any smell from PLA filament. ABS would definitely
> > > smell just like cutting ABS with high speed tools that melt it some.
> > > The GRBL, Marlin and other 3D printer firmwares have the ability to
> > > monitor things and shut everything down if a fire potential
> > > situation happens. Some printers have had a bit of an issue where
> > > the manufacturer chose to not enable those features, then after a
> > > few incidents either the users or the manufacturer released updated
> > > firmware with the features enabled. Google 3d printer fire to find
> > > various ways some have lit up, and things to look for to ensure
> > > yours won't.
> > > Aside from the firmware issues, common causes of flammen tend to be
> > > wires to the hot end or heated bed rubbing and wearing through
> > > insulation, or parts for the bed mounting being sharp and cutting
> > > into the circuitry. At least one case was the hot end heater fell
> > > out of the nozzle block and the printer was one with runaway heat
> > > monitoring disabled. Since the thermistor wasn't reading the heat,
> > > the printer kept cranking up the juice to the heater. Basically an
> > > if expected temp output != commanded temp input then something's
> > > wrong so turn off. The one with the 

Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 29 May 2020 12:20:39 Chris Albertson wrote:

> The Ender printers are well thought out and lack most of the dumb
> problems of older Prusia clone printers.   But still, there are cables
> that attach moving to non-moving parts and after flexing 20 times a
> minute for years will break.  The printer is open source and there
> are forums if problems come up.
>
> The first thing most new 3D printer owners print are upgrades for
> their new printer.

1; Usually these are a filament guide to feed the 
> filament over sharp edges and some braces to make the printer
> structure more rigid,
2; link to fora or where ever this stuff can be downloaded as .stl files?
> housing for the electronics, cable clamps, and 
> hold-down clamps so the printer can be screwed to a workbench.

Does it shake rattle and roll that badly that it needs the mass of a well 
built workbench to do _good_ work? Seems to me 4 guy wires with 
turnbuckle tensioners, two from each end of the top frame rail should 
brace it adequately.

> The 
> on-line groups advised me that my A6 printer had a problem were a
> small connector was used for a big current and would melt and catch
> fire.   But they kept re-posting this long after the manufacturer
> fixed this problem.   That is what happens with even this group.   We
> re-post what we read years ago.
>
All of which serves to edycate the neucomer. Speeling mysteaks expected.

> The printer is as complex as a CNC mill and takes a while before you
> can learn to use it.  There is a long software workflow too from an
> idea in your head to finished parts and unlike a mill, there is no
> option to turn the handwheels manually.

Thats probably my biggest concern as this will truly be the first time I 
have trusted a code generator to do what I want. I have up till now, 
either modified gcode to do what I want, or written it myself.  

Sometimes with a lot of help, you know who you are, and many thanks for 
that.  I owe many of you a hand cooler if we ever meet in person!

> On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 11:56 PM Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users <
>
> emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net> wrote:
> > I've never noticed any smell from PLA filament. ABS would definitely
> > smell just like cutting ABS with high speed tools that melt it some.
> > The GRBL, Marlin and other 3D printer firmwares have the ability to
> > monitor things and shut everything down if a fire potential
> > situation happens. Some printers have had a bit of an issue where
> > the manufacturer chose to not enable those features, then after a
> > few incidents either the users or the manufacturer released updated
> > firmware with the features enabled. Google 3d printer fire to find
> > various ways some have lit up, and things to look for to ensure
> > yours won't.
> > Aside from the firmware issues, common causes of flammen tend to be
> > wires to the hot end or heated bed rubbing and wearing through
> > insulation, or parts for the bed mounting being sharp and cutting
> > into the circuitry. At least one case was the hot end heater fell
> > out of the nozzle block and the printer was one with runaway heat
> > monitoring disabled. Since the thermistor wasn't reading the heat,
> > the printer kept cranking up the juice to the heater. Basically an
> > if expected temp output != commanded temp input then something's
> > wrong so turn off. The one with the bed mounting issue was one of
> > those lower cost Prusa copies. The fix was simply four fiber
> > washers, before the metal washers cut through the insulation coating
> > on the underside of the bed plate.
> > You'll want to make sure the wires to the heated bed are secured so
> > they don't flex where they're soldered. PITA to discover that when
> > one breaks loose then you have to take things apart, and rig up
> > proper securing for the wires.
> >
> > On Thursday, May 28, 2020, 8:04:15 PM MDT, Gene Heskett <
> > ghesk...@shentel.net> wrote:
> > For Dee, whose COPD is getting close to the end, not tolerable then,
> > so I may as well put it in the shed and build a box around it.
> >
> > Does it need a fire extinguisher when doing lights out stuff at
> > 3AM?.
> >
> > Thanks Andy.
> >
> > Cheers, Gene Heskett
> > ___
> > Emc-users mailing list
> > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Chris Albertson]

The Ender printers are well thought out and lack most of the dumb problems
of older Prusia clone printers.   But still, there are cables that attach
moving to non-moving parts and after flexing 20 times a minute for years
will break.  The printer is open source and there are forums if
problems come up.

The first thing most new 3D printer owners print are upgrades for their new
printer.  Usually these are a filament guide to feed the filament over
sharp edges and some braces to make the printer structure more rigid,
housing for the electronics, cable clamps, and hold-down clamps so the
printer can be screwed to a workbench.  The on-line groups advised me that
my A6 printer had a problem were a small connector was used for a big
current and would melt and catch fire.   But they kept re-posting this long
after the manufacturer fixed this problem.   That is what happens with even
this group.   We re-post what we read years ago.

The printer is as complex as a CNC mill and takes a while before you can
learn to use it.  There is a long software workflow too from an idea in
your head to finished parts and unlike a mill, there is no option to turn
the handwheels manually.

On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 11:56 PM Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users <
emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net> wrote:

> I've never noticed any smell from PLA filament. ABS would definitely smell
> just like cutting ABS with high speed tools that melt it some.
> The GRBL, Marlin and other 3D printer firmwares have the ability to
> monitor things and shut everything down if a fire potential situation
> happens. Some printers have had a bit of an issue where the manufacturer
> chose to not enable those features, then after a few incidents either the
> users or the manufacturer released updated firmware with the features
> enabled. Google 3d printer fire to find various ways some have lit up, and
> things to look for to ensure yours won't.
> Aside from the firmware issues, common causes of flammen tend to be wires
> to the hot end or heated bed rubbing and wearing through insulation, or
> parts for the bed mounting being sharp and cutting into the circuitry. At
> least one case was the hot end heater fell out of the nozzle block and the
> printer was one with runaway heat monitoring disabled. Since the thermistor
> wasn't reading the heat, the printer kept cranking up the juice to the
> heater. Basically an if expected temp output != commanded temp input then
> something's wrong so turn off. The one with the bed mounting issue was one
> of those lower cost Prusa copies. The fix was simply four fiber washers,
> before the metal washers cut through the insulation coating on the
> underside of the bed plate.
> You'll want to make sure the wires to the heated bed are secured so they
> don't flex where they're soldered. PITA to discover that when one breaks
> loose then you have to take things apart, and rig up proper securing for
> the wires.
>
> On Thursday, May 28, 2020, 8:04:15 PM MDT, Gene Heskett <
> ghesk...@shentel.net> wrote:
> For Dee, whose COPD is getting close to the end, not tolerable then, so I
> may as well put it in the shed and build a box around it.
>
> Does it need a fire extinguisher when doing lights out stuff at 3AM?.
>
> Thanks Andy.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>


-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 29 May 2020 08:39:26 andy pugh wrote:

> On Fri, 29 May 2020 at 12:51, Gene Heskett 
> wrote:
>
> I'll check that as I'm assembling it.  Otherwise the fire risk and
>
> > potential odor would seem to be tolerable, at least for a test run
> > for effect.
>
> Clearly the test run needs to be something for her...

A new canulla for her oxygen hose? Thats the most important thing in her 
life ATM.

I'd druther make a sprocket for a 1st test pass as I have a bag of those 
canulla's already, made out of much more comfortably flexible stuff than 
pla.

I've dl'd that sprocket file, now what do I do with it to make a 
printable .stl? _Unpack it, see openscad mentioned, install openscad and 
friends, explore. For single sheeve, looks great.  Obviously will need 
to figure out how to do hubless & bolt 2 together as central idler over 
a pair of skate bearings.  Looks as if it should work if the printer 
does its job.

Probably watching paint dry fun. :-) A potential problem, possibly 
fixable by putting the grub screws at 180 degrees, is the double d-flat 
on the worm shaft unless theres an option to do that to a round hole.
Interesting problem, perhaps solvable with a modified to do a doubled 
d-flat version of the code Sam is having so much fun with...  Sam?

Thanks all.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[andy pugh]

On Fri, 29 May 2020 at 12:51, Gene Heskett  wrote:

I'll check that as I'm assembling it.  Otherwise the fire risk and
> potential odor would seem to be tolerable, at least for a test run for
> effect.


Clearly the test run needs to be something for her...

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 29 May 2020 02:53:55 Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:

> I've never noticed any smell from PLA filament. ABS would definitely
> smell just like cutting ABS with high speed tools that melt it some.
> The GRBL, Marlin and other 3D printer firmwares have the ability to
> monitor things and shut everything down if a fire potential situation
> happens. Some printers have had a bit of an issue where the
> manufacturer chose to not enable those features, then after a few
> incidents either the users or the manufacturer released updated
> firmware with the features enabled. Google 3d printer fire to find
> various ways some have lit up, and things to look for to ensure yours
> won't. Aside from the firmware issues, common causes of flammen tend
> to be wires to the hot end or heated bed rubbing and wearing through
> insulation, or parts for the bed mounting being sharp and cutting into
> the circuitry. At least one case was the hot end heater fell out of
> the nozzle block and the printer was one with runaway heat monitoring
> disabled. Since the thermistor wasn't reading the heat, the printer
> kept cranking up the juice to the heater. Basically an if expected
> temp output != commanded temp input then something's wrong so turn
> off. The one with the bed mounting issue was one of those lower cost
> Prusa copies. The fix was simply four fiber washers, before the metal
> washers cut through the insulation coating on the underside of the bed
> plate. You'll want to make sure the wires to the heated bed are
> secured so they don't flex where they're soldered. PITA to discover
> that when one breaks loose then you have to take things apart, and rig
> up proper securing for the wires.
>
I'll check that as I'm assembling it.  Otherwise the fire risk and 
potential odor would seem to be tolerable, at least for a test run for 
effect.

I assume it will accept an .stl file over a cat5 cable?

> On Thursday, May 28, 2020, 8:04:15 PM MDT, Gene Heskett
>  wrote: For Dee, whose COPD is getting close to
> the end, not tolerable then, so I may as well put it in the shed and
> build a box around it.
>
> Does it need a fire extinguisher when doing lights out stuff at 3AM?.
>
> Thanks Andy.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
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> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gene Heskett]

On Thursday 28 May 2020 23:01:24 Chris Albertson wrote:

> PLA plastic made from plant oil, not petroleum.  It smells a little
> like popcorn.  The odor is a little less than microwave popcorn.  Most
> people find it is not objectionable. They claim PLA is
> biodegradable but I've yet to see any degradation when left outdoors.

That would likely be tolerable, although I might have to deepen my stock 
of Orville's finest. :) I do keep a carton of it in the larder.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] On Motorizing a BS-1 clone

[Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users]

I've never noticed any smell from PLA filament. ABS would definitely smell just 
like cutting ABS with high speed tools that melt it some. 
The GRBL, Marlin and other 3D printer firmwares have the ability to monitor 
things and shut everything down if a fire potential situation happens. Some 
printers have had a bit of an issue where the manufacturer chose to not enable 
those features, then after a few incidents either the users or the manufacturer 
released updated firmware with the features enabled. Google 3d printer fire to 
find various ways some have lit up, and things to look for to ensure yours 
won't.
Aside from the firmware issues, common causes of flammen tend to be wires to 
the hot end or heated bed rubbing and wearing through insulation, or parts for 
the bed mounting being sharp and cutting into the circuitry. At least one case 
was the hot end heater fell out of the nozzle block and the printer was one 
with runaway heat monitoring disabled. Since the thermistor wasn't reading the 
heat, the printer kept cranking up the juice to the heater. Basically an if 
expected temp output != commanded temp input then something's wrong so turn 
off. The one with the bed mounting issue was one of those lower cost Prusa 
copies. The fix was simply four fiber washers, before the metal washers cut 
through the insulation coating on the underside of the bed plate.
You'll want to make sure the wires to the heated bed are secured so they don't 
flex where they're soldered. PITA to discover that when one breaks loose then 
you have to take things apart, and rig up proper securing for the wires.

On Thursday, May 28, 2020, 8:04:15 PM MDT, Gene Heskett 
 wrote: 
For Dee, whose COPD is getting close to the end, not tolerable then, so I 
may as well put it in the shed and build a box around it.

Does it need a fire extinguisher when doing lights out stuff at 3AM?.

Thanks Andy.

Cheers, Gene Heskett  
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