That's within spec. Just means they used a 330 ohm for R1 instead of the
less common 300 ohm.
On Wed, Aug 25, 2021 at 1:03 PM Peter VanDerWal via EV
wrote:
> Hmm, interesting.
>
> Just measured one of mine. When the button is not pressed I see 150 ohms,
> and 480 ohms when it is pressed.
Congrats! Excellent detective work.
My PGP public key: https://vanderwal.us/evdl_pgp.key
August 25, 2021 2:23 PM, "Bob Bath via EV" wrote:
> To close this thread, the electrician did mash the two wires near the
> resistor and microswitch.
> Solution was to salvage the switch from the
To close this thread, the electrician did mash the two wires near the resistor
and microswitch.
Solution was to salvage the switch from the prior, melted paddle.
I’m back to level 2 capability.
Thanks for the help, all.
Sincerely,
Bob Bath
Note: any misspellings of the contents of
This is the circuit that should be connected between ground, and the Prox
(PP) pin on the handle:
[image: evse-prox.png]
On Tue, Aug 24, 2021 at 10:48 PM Peter VanDerWal via EV
wrote:
> The discrete components in the EVSE plug should just be a couple resistors.
> Most of the diagrams I've seen
Hmm, interesting.
Just measured one of mine. When the button is not pressed I see 150 ohms, and
480 ohms when it is pressed. Again Proiximity Pilot to ground.
The control pilot pin should show a 1khz square wave from +12V to -12V
My PGP public key: https://vanderwal.us/evdl_pgp.key
August
The discrete components in the EVSE plug should just be a couple resistors.
Most of the diagrams I've seen indicate that with the plug disconnected from
the car, measuring from ground to the Proximity Pilot pin should show around
450-500 ohms when the switch is open and around 150 ohms when it's
Hey,
It seems the electrician I hired to replace my melted J1772 plug ran the
wiring _along_ the microswitch instead of underneath it.
Upon testing, the new plug did not work. I’m hoping he didn’t mash the crap
out of the wires and what appears to be a capacitor or some other discrete
