The easiest is to run a new cable! Long runs don’t matter it the wire gauge is
right! 00 gauge should be enough.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 15, 2018, at 10:39 AM, Christopher Darilek via EV
> wrote:
>
> Continuing my plea for help, and seeing that the Zilla is a high-side switch,
> which
My understanding is that you want your controller-to-motor cables as short
as possible. I think this has to do with the way the current limiting
circuitry and/or the freewheeling diode work. So, I wouldn't put the
controller in the trunk if the motor's up front.
I also understand that even if
[fixed up formatting]
Continuing my plea for help, and seeing that the Zilla is a high-side switch,
which of the following options should I pick?
The top half of my battery is under the hood and the bottom half is in the
trunk.
My motor is under the hood (of course). And my old
Continuing my plea for help, and seeing that the Zilla is a high-side switch,
which of the following options should I pick? The top half of my battery is
under the hood and the bottom half is in the trunk. My motor is under the hood
(of course). And my old controller was in the trunk (original
Ahhh, its a high-side switch?
B- and M- are common inside the controller, correct?
Thanks,Chris
http://www.evalbum.com/4743
On Saturday, September 15, 2018, 8:28:44 AM CDT, Christopher Darilek via EV
wrote:
Hi all. I'm upgrading from a Curtis 1231C to a Zilla 1k to refresh my EV
