[h-cost] historic academic robes

2007-02-06 Thread Althea Turner
hello all, I've gotten permission to make my own cap, gown and hood for my graduation this June. I would like to use the Alcega scholar's robe, or something similar. Does anyone know of a good source for patterns? Thank you! Althea Turner [EMAIL PROTECTED] Ignorant themselves of the

Re: [h-cost] historic academic robes

2007-02-06 Thread Carolyn Kayta Barrows
I've gotten permission to make my own cap, gown and hood for my graduation this June. I would like to use the Alcega scholar's robe, or something similar. Does anyone know of a good source for patterns? Either look into the Janet Arnold 'Patterns of Fashion' covering the Renaissance, or

Re: [h-cost] Re: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580' Reprint

2007-02-06 Thread MaggiRos
Artbooks.com shows it as being available in April, I believe. http://artbooks.com/wc.dll?AB~searchquick~cart=0 Maggie --- Catherine Kinsey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I think we are going to have a better way of getting this book. David Brown books contacted me because I suggested THEY carry

[h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread Lauren Walker
Hi, I am thinking about buying a Simplicity pattern for a modern dress style, but it has been years and years since I used one of theirs (most of my historic stuff I just fit to myself.) When I was younger, the patterns were made with so much ease that if I followed the cutting lines for

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread Deredere Galbraith
Hi, They still run large. I always make it one ore two sizes smaller. Greetings, Deredere Lauren Walker wrote: Hi, I am thinking about buying a Simplicity pattern for a modern dress style, but it has been years and years since I used one of theirs (most of my historic stuff I just fit

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread Dawn
Lauren Walker wrote: patterns were made with so much ease that if I followed the cutting lines for the size suggested by my measurements, the finished product would be about six inches too big -- the ease must have been about 10 inches! Has anybody got a sense of how these patterns run

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread AnnBWass
In a message dated 2/6/2007 3:18:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: There's often a chart on the envelope with real measurements for bust and hips, which is useful in determining which size to cut. I still almost always have to take two inches off the sides for

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread AlbertCat
In a message dated 2/6/2007 3:04:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Has anybody got a sense of how these patterns run now? * Isn't the standard 3 of ease? Things fit a little tighter now than they did a decade ago. When I was taught to

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread Lauren Walker
Thanks to all. Luckily this thing has a very full skirt, it's only fitted above the waist, so I only have two measurements to really worry about. What I found confusing in the past was that the measurements listed on the back would suggest that I needed the pattern to be about two sizes

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread Kimiko Small
I will gently disagree. I can easily breathe in a garment with only 1 ease, as my body will adjust as well as the fabric, not that I recommend it. I still prefer 2-4 for ease in semi-fitted modern garments, and find 6 too big. And I suggest to use the upper bust measurement for pattern

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread Lauren Walker
Thanks, Kimiko. That was part of my worry -- that the shoulder straps would be falling off me, or far too widely-spaced, or way too long (that is, that they'd widen into the bodice way too low to be of use to me) and I'd have a devil of a time refitting everything. That's why I wanted to

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread Pixel, Goddess and Queen
On Tue, 6 Feb 2007, Lauren Walker wrote: Thanks, Kimiko. That was part of my worry -- that the shoulder straps would be falling off me, or far too widely-spaced, or way too long (that is, that they'd widen into the bodice way too low to be of use to me) and I'd have a devil of a time

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread AnnBWass
In a message dated 2/6/2007 4:00:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: What I found confusing in the past was that the measurements listed on the back would suggest that I needed the pattern to be about two sizes bigger than my normal dress size, and then I'd get

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread Lavolta Press
If this is the style I am thinking of: My experience with halter-top-like bodices is that if even a few inches of skin is exposed at bust level (by a low neckline, and/or bare back), the bust measurement becomes less meaningful than the length of the straps, or whatever you want to call the

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread AnnBWass
In a message dated 2/6/2007 4:07:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: And I suggest to use the upper bust measurement for pattern fitting, because us larger gals will have a fitting issue if we try to buy the pattern based on our full bust size. Companies think that

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread Kimiko Small
Hi Ann, My point is to use the upper bust measurement of the person when looking at the pattern for the bust size, if one is a larger person and hence probably larger than a B cup. While the upper bust measurement is not shown on the charts, using it as the bust measurement gets the upper

[h-cost] anglaise??

2007-02-06 Thread Kate Pinner
Anybody know what an anglaise is? The quote from Woyzeck (written by Beuchner in 1836) has him talking to a Captain '...if I were a proper gentleman with a watch and an anglaise '... Kate ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com

RE: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread Rickard, Patty
Comparing to normal dress size may actually be closer to right currently, since garment makers seem ot be making their clothing bigger and bigger for a given size. Clothing that would have been a 10 when I was younger is now a 6 or even a 4. Patty From:

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread AnnBWass
Well, I don't have a lot of experience with larger than usual busts--certainly not my personal problem, and as most of my work was with college students, not theirs, either! A, I had never thought about using the upper bust measurement as the stated bust measurement--if I ever do run

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread Sylvia Rognstad
I have found patterns I use nowadays to be pretty accurate, but maybe it's just that I am more careful than I used to be. I always check what the finished measurements on the pattern say and go by those. Sylrog On Feb 6, 2007, at 1:02 PM, Lauren Walker wrote: Hi, I am thinking about buying

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread Lauren Walker
Does anyone know of a clever tool for measuring the 5/8 all round the outside? I usually draw it on the cloth with a pencil, but the measurements get a bit, um, impressionistic on some of the curves. Lauren M. Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Feb 6, 2007, at 7:21 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread Ruth Anne Baumgartner
For machine sewing I just use the guide on the platen. For hand sewing, yes, I measure as often as needed (very often on curves, twice or three times on the straight) and connect the dots with pencil. I'll bet you could take one of those little compasses we used to get in our pencil boxes,

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread Susan B. Farmer
In a message dated 2/6/2007 4:00:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: What I found confusing in the past was that the measurements listed on the back would suggest that I needed the pattern to be about two sizes bigger than my normal dress size, and then I'd get the

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread Robin Netherton
On Tue, 6 Feb 2007, Lauren Walker wrote: Does anyone know of a clever tool for measuring the 5/8 all round the outside? I usually draw it on the cloth with a pencil, but the measurements get a bit, um, impressionistic on some of the curves. Most of my tape measures are 5/8 inches wide. I

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread Lavolta Press
I have a double tracing wheel that I run along the edge of the pattern, and it makes an indent 5/8 away. Fran Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming http://www.lavoltapress.com Robin Netherton wrote: On Tue, 6 Feb 2007, Lauren Walker wrote: Does anyone know of a clever tool for

RE: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread monica spence
You can use a french curve or one of those bendable rulers also. Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Robin Netherton Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 9:54 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease On Tue, 6 Feb 2007,

RE: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread monica spence
The pattern companies changed their specs in the middle 60s. FWIW--Sizes as we know them are not accurate since there is no real standard. Most companies have their dress form made to their own specs-- Target. Kmart and JCPenneys have them. Others probably do too. It gets expensive for the

Re: [h-cost] anglaise??

2007-02-06 Thread Sue Clemenger
Something in an English style, or something (an accessory?) associated especially strongly with the English? --Sue - Original Message - From: Kate Pinner [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 4:08 PM Subject: [h-cost] anglaise??

[h-cost] DBBC [re: Moda a Firenze]

2007-02-06 Thread Suzanne
Regina said: I like David Brown Book Company because their marketing director knows me by name from all the times I have written him to point out he is an Agent of Satan (His duties being largely ceremonial) and a pusher. I've also had wonderful dealings and gotten great books at prices

RE: [h-cost] DBBC [re: Moda a Firenze]

2007-02-06 Thread Sharon Collier
If you put a hold on it, he can't renew it, right? So, he'll have to return it or face HUGE late fees. If your library doesn't charge late fees, drop him a note saying they do now, it's a new policy, to try and encourage him to return it. :-) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

re: [h-cost] DBBC [re: Moda a Firenze]

2007-02-06 Thread Cin
Suzanne responds: ... So I'll have to be quiet and wait 'til the semester ends and he's forced to return everything -- or until I just can't take it any more and Recall the book! (Just call me Conan the Librarian.) grin Argh! obscure humor! --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED]

[h-cost] [OT] borrowers' privileges [was DBBC etc.]

2007-02-06 Thread Suzanne
Yeah, but professors get to keep books 'til the end of the academic year. I'll have to wait 'til mid-May. The Recall feature is for items that someone reallyreallyreally needs for research; I don't apply it lightly and I already hit this professor once last semester for something I

Re: [h-cost] [OT] borrowers' privileges [was DBBC etc.]

2007-02-06 Thread Dawn
Suzanne wrote: Yeah, but professors get to keep books 'til the end of the academic year. I'll have to wait 'til mid-May. After 8 years of college and 3 universities I never met a professor who returned anything at the end of the semester. I had to go chasing down more than one book over

Re: [h-cost] DBBC [re: Moda a Firenze]

2007-02-06 Thread Robin Netherton
On Tue, 6 Feb 2007, Suzanne wrote: I like David Brown Book Company because their marketing director knows me by name from all the times I have written him to point out he is an Agent of Satan (His duties being largely ceremonial) and a pusher. I've also had wonderful dealings and gotten

Re: [h-cost] [OT] borrowers' privileges [was DBBC etc.]

2007-02-06 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond
On Tuesday 06 February 2007 11:24 pm, Susan B. Farmer wrote: I always give them a month or two with the book and *then* request it.    Tomorrow, I'm going to put in a request for Thor   Ewing's Viking Clothing book.  Anybody got any comments on it? Yes, I do. It's an interesting read. Wisely,

Re: [h-cost] [OT] borrowers' privileges [was DBBC etc.]

2007-02-06 Thread Susan B. Farmer
Quoting Catherine Olanich Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]: On Tuesday 06 February 2007 11:24 pm, Susan B. Farmer wrote: I always give them a month or two with the book and *then* request it. Tomorrow, I'm going to put in a request for Thor Ewing's Viking Clothing book. Anybody got any

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread AlbertCat
In a message dated 2/6/2007 9:14:41 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I have a double tracing wheel that I run along the edge of the pattern, and it makes an indent 5/8 away. * I do too...and you can adjust it to other measurements as well [like 1/2 or

RE: [h-cost] [OT] borrowers' privileges [was DBBC etc.]

2007-02-06 Thread Sharon Collier
Maybe contact him and borrow it for a week or so. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Suzanne Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 7:26 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] [OT] borrowers' privileges [was DBBC etc.] Yeah, but professors