Re: [h-cost] asian costume
Well, the original question was about third century BC. Reasonably ancient by my standards. Mongol Costume is documentation for the early 20th century. Not ancient by any standards. On Thu, Dec 6, 2012 at 7:07 AM, R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@washjeff.eduwrote: So what is ancient? before recordered history? I have been making (interpreting) some of designs that are described as pre 900...basic clothing that is compared with Roman and Greekdraping and fittings..as counterparts to Northern China extant pieces. Can you point me to more recent sources that may record Asian Costume of the time you see as Ancient? Unfortunately, Max Tilke in Costume Patterns and Design does not give dates to place the clothing development for the garments he offers in the international Costumes he introduces. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Trembley [attre...@bovil.com] Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 7:41 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] asian costume The Carlsberg Foundation Nomad Research Project is a Danish anthropological survey of nomadic peoples funded/supported by Carlsberg Brewing. Mongol Costume is an analysis of garments brought back by late 1930's Danish expeditions. Don't get me wrong, it's a great book, and provides insightful analysis of the evolution of Mongol clothing, but if you're looking for ancient this isn't the book you want. On Wed, Dec 5, 2012 at 1:13 PM, R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu wrote: Coming in late on this; did anyone mention Mongol Costume in the discusion o f? Peasant garb? The book was published by the Carlsberg Foundation, Nomad Research Project 1993. it? includes basic clothing design descriptions for the China Stepps and central environs frmon very early times. Not surprising, pics are inclusive of garments and artifacts on the wealthy side of Class, but the shapes, colors, patterns include basic costume theory. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] asian costume
The Carlsberg Foundation Nomad Research Project is a Danish anthropological survey of nomadic peoples funded/supported by Carlsberg Brewing. Mongol Costume is an analysis of garments brought back by late 1930's Danish expeditions. Don't get me wrong, it's a great book, and provides insightful analysis of the evolution of Mongol clothing, but if you're looking for ancient this isn't the book you want. On Wed, Dec 5, 2012 at 1:13 PM, R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu wrote: Coming in late on this; did anyone mention Mongol Costume in the discusion o f? Peasant garb? The book was published by the Carlsberg Foundation, Nomad Research Project 1993. it? includes basic clothing design descriptions for the China Stepps and central environs frmon very early times. Not surprising, pics are inclusive of garments and artifacts on the wealthy side of Class, but the shapes, colors, patterns include basic costume theory. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] beginner sewing machine
On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 11:05 AM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: I would recommend against the Kenmore. I grew up using (and cussing!) my mother's ca 1962 Kenmore. It *ate* thinner fabrics. I used it periodically to mend my Dad's clothing when home for visits, and even with years more experience sewing, I never made peace with the clunker. Kenmore machines were (and still are) made for Sears/Kenmore by whatever manufacturer Sears is contracting with at the moment. For decades, they were made by White (excellent machines), but by the early 60's they switched to foreign manufacturers. That pretty much killed White, now it's just a name that's been passed around between different companies that bought and sold the trademark. In the late 70's to mid 80's Sears was using a pretty good Japanese manufacturer (no, I don't know which one), but it's totally a YMMV situation. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Renovation Worldcon Masquerade Photos up!
On Aug 29, 2011, at 12:29 PM, Kathleen Norvell wrote: Every time I click on a link, it sends me back around to the same or similar page, but no photos. Do I have to subscribe to see them? try http://www.rfman.com/SF-and-Fantasy-Conventions/Renovation-Worldcon-2011/ andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Renovation Worldcon Masquerade Photos up!
Original Message Subject:[ICG-D] Renovation Worldcon Masquerade Photos up! From: Richard Man rich...@imagecraft.com We know how much work and money it takes to create a wonderful costume, hence I am offering my service to document these creations. I do have a request: if you like my photos, buy some prints. A 4″x6″ print is only $2.49. It takes a lot of energy to shoot the event and process the photos, let alone the cost to maintain the Smugmug site where the photos are hosted and of course all the travel cost and equipment cost. You don’t need prints and only want some JPG for your Facebook page? No problems, paypal me some tips or gas money, I’ll take it. richard @ imagecraft.com http://www.5pmlight.com/?p=2668 -- // richardhttp://www.imagecraft.com/ // icc blog:http://imagecraft.com/blog/ // richard's personal photo blog:http://www.5pmlight.com [ For technical support on ImageCraft products, please include all previous replies in your msgs. ] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ICG-D/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ICG-D/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: icg-d-dig...@yahoogroups.com icg-d-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: icg-d-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] sewing machines
scourney wrote: Hi, My small light portable machine has developed problems beyond the easily fixable. It's an older Brother. I've gone looking at the more expensive machines, but am thinking that now is not the time. Not a big fan of Brother or Singer. The ultimate portable is the Elna Lotus. This model was made in the 70's and 80's. It's smaller than a Singer Featherweight and self-boxing, but has about a dozen stitches and a good buttonhole system. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] sewing machines and button holes
Alexandria Doyle wrote: I have an additional question, if one were to purchase a machine just to do buttonholes, what machine would you recommend? The big fancy embroidery machines, not surprisingly, do great buttonholes. I'm with the rest of the gang, though. The old brick foot with cams for different size buttonholes is the best. Most old straight-stitch machines supported some variant on this system. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] An interesting ethnic fabric
Robin Netherton wrote: A friend sent me this link about a Jewish-Scottish tartan: http://www.forward.com/articles/13787/ A friend of mine has a kilt of white and pale-blue magen-david plaid. He says it's the tartan of Clan McAbees. Then there's the classic Anna Russel bit from her lecture How to Enjoy your Bagpipe. Then you cover it in its little shirt which should be made of the family tartan. I belong to the McPimple clan. It's the only Scottish clan to have a polka-dotted tartan. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] JC Superstar and Speedos
Penny Ladnier wrote: During JC's visit to Herod, two men with blonde wigs in the chorus were wearing what appears to be tiny white Speedos. I am not sure but there may have been ties at the hips, which could have been women's bikini bottoms. They were women's bikini bottoms. The whole chorus in that scene was in bad drag. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] How to remove smells from fur?
Marion McNealy wrote: I recently purchased a great short fur coat for $10, unfortunately, it smells of body odor and cigarette smoke. How do I get this smell out of the fur? I had thought of brushing baking soda through it, letting it sit for a while in a bag, then vacuuming it out and then letting it sit again with some aromatic herb sachets. Will this work or should I do something else? When in doubt, try the old theatrical wardrobe trick (but start with a test swatch). Mix up equal parts vodka and water. Put in a spray-mister. Mist the lining lightly. Let air out. Repeat. I'm not sure how the fur and skin itself would stand up to this, though, if you did the outside too. Another good trick is to put it in a closet with one of those Sharper Image ionic air cleaners for a few days. We did that with a very smoky leather jacket and the smell just went away. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Regency silliness in two short weeks...
The Bay Area English Regency Dance Society (www.baers.org) Presents: The Great Regency Shipwreck Ball, (or Regency Survivor) We can't get off this island, so we might as well entertain ourselves! Caller Alan Winston with The Divertimento Dance Orchestra Saturday June 21, 2008 8:00-11:30pm Arlington Church (52 Arlington Ave, Kensington, CA) The Divertimento Orchestra will provide jolly music. The marooned elite, in any remaining finery, are invited to dance arm-in-arm with the ships' captain and crew. Meet up at 8PM sharp aboard the ruins for dance, drink and good company! Come as you are, whether Passenger, Pirate, Native, Merfolk or member of Her Majesty's Royal Navy. If your wardrobe was relocated to Davy Jones' Locker during the fateful storm, fashion yourself new togs from local flora (grass skirts are all the rage among the natives!). We've made peace with the island inhabitants and the merfolk in the bay, so we will feast with them on seafood, fresh fruits, springwater and provisions salvaged from the hold. The contribution of exotic new delicacies from forays inland are welcome - as long as you have already tried them first. Subscriptions are $20 at the door, $15 in advance. $2 discount for GBACG, BACDS, and COYOTE/SFCOP members. Advance mail registrations must be received by us no later than June 18th. Costumes admired but not required. All dances taught during the ball. No partner required. Make out checks to BAERS, and send them to BAERS c/o Vanessa Schnatmeier 1122 Hudson Street Redwood City, CA 94061 Name(s): __ Street Address: City, State, ZIP: __ Phone: () - Email: __ Mark if new address for mailing list: __ Number of admissions desired __ What is the English Regency? See http://www.baers.org ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Knitting machines
Lavolta Press wrote: With either, it depends on how you set it up and your project. The motion of a home knitting machine is to slide the carriage back forth, simpler than raising the sheds and throwing a shuttle in weaving. I know this sounds totally decadent, but are there any home machines with electric carriages? There are motor drives available for some knitting machines. They automate sliding the carriage, but that's it. The motor drive must be halted while carriage or needle settings are adjusted manually as required by your pattern. I don't know of any home machines that are fully automated. It gets complicated with shaping, but that can be done with punch cards on a knitting machine. Patterns can be done with cards as well. And will they all take cards? Some machines support punch cards. Some machines have computer control. Some machines are purely manual. There's a great demo on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T26vuFnQgh4 in three parts that shows manual shaping of a sock. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Number of machines.Was Sewing and Embroidery Machines
Anne Moeller wrote: Some of us like to have different machines for different projects. Some of us collect them for their beauty. Some of us just can't decide which machine is best. I just think that they are really cool! I buy machines because they're good at something that my other machines aren't. I very rarely think in terms of replacing machines, because at this point I've developed a collection of machines, each of which is the best at a particular technique and which I wouldn't consider substituting with something else. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Pfaff vs Husqvarna
Lavolta Press wrote: San Francisco itself seems to have a shortage of Viking dealers. People have recommended a good dealer in Sunnyvale, and another one in Marin County. Those are places I can get to but not conveniently enough to want to do it a lot, plus there is the time issue of dealing with the upgrades/fixes. I can do it, but I have a computer to keep updated as it is. If you're going to have to leave the city and are considering shops in the South Bay, I'm partial to Viking Sewing Center (Lincoln Avenue in Willow Glen/San Jose and East Estate in Cupertino http://www.sewviking.com/). We just ran all of our machines through service there. Their technician is just superb, he even got my '54 Elna Supermatic back up to snuff (it's a first-year Supermatic and has some design flaws solved in later versions). andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] CC26: The Lost Diaries
...lost to lack of sleep, that is. If you would like to read my Costume-Con 26 diaries, please check out http://bovil.livejournal.com/tag/conventions andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Husqvarna Viking Embroidery Machines
Lavolta Press wrote: But I could do the downloads myself, right? As I do for the s/w on my computer. I see what you mean about local tech support though, as there's always some chance, however small, of getting a defective machine or otherwise having technical problems. AFAIK, most updates to the machine are user-installable. Some may require a visit to the shop, though. One of the big reasons for going to a good dealer is the start-up training. Embroidery machines in general, and Viking embroidery machines in particular, are very feature-rich systems. Without training owners often spend several years doing things in difficult and inefficient ways because they don't know about less obvious advanced options. BTW, are their embroidery sticks machine-specific in any way, or can you use any computer data stick/flash drive? I believe they're just ordinary USB flash drives formatted for Windows. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Subject: Re: [ h-cost]Making history hip
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Nah - the bad one is the number of people from soruthern England who've though I was Scottish. I'm not, I'm from near Newcastle in the North East. *rolling eyes* But if you're from another planet, why do you sound like you're from the North? Lots of planets have a north! (Sorry, I had to...) andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] [Reminder: CC26 Historical Masquerade Pre-registration]
Original Message Subject: [GBACGCostumers] Reminder: CC26 Historical Masquerade Pre-registration Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 16:13:17 - From: emfarrell.geo [EMAIL PROTECTED] Costume-Con 26 Historical Masquerade Call for Entries The Costume-Con 26 Historical Masquerade recognizes creativity, scholarship, stage presentation, and workmanship skills in the context of historical clothing. It celebrates the history of costume, including all cultures, periods, and types of dress. Historical costume is costume based on clothing that was worn or could have been worn somewhere in the past of this world. The Historical Masquerade will take place on Sunday, April 27th, 2008. To enter the CC26 Historical you must be a member of CC26, as must all models you may plan to use. We are expecting to have a particularly large number of entries for this Costume-Con, as the Bay Area has so many opportunities for historical costuming. Because of that, we would like to encourage interested costumers to pre-register, even if you only think you will have a garment completed in time. You can submit a registration form, or contact the masquerade directors to express your interest. Deadline for submission by mail: April 15th, 2008 (registration forms can be obtained on the Costume-Con 26 website). Deadline for registration at the con: 8 p.m. Friday, April 25th, 2008, but please don't wait in case we are unable to accept all submissions due to space/time limitations. Thanks, and we are looking forward to a very wonderful historical masquerade at CC26! Eleanor Farrell and Shelley Monson Masquerade Directors CC26 website: http://www.cc26.info email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] FW: Preliminary Costume-Con 26 Program Listing is now up at cc26.info!
--BEGIN FORWARDED MESSAGE-- I've just finished loading the program info for Costume-Con 26 into our online database, and you can now view it at http://www.cc26.info/view_program.php I'm still working to consolidate a few pieces that ended up duplicated in the database, so pardon our dust while I continue a bit of cleanup; I thought you'd want to see what we have in store as soon as possible. Kevin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What is a serious costumer?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Good evening to all of you and hope my series of questioning doesn't seem silly but for some reason I am still having trouble trying to decypher the difference between an amateur costumer (myself, one who has a general knowledge of a topic) and one who is a serious costumer, or professional. A professional costumer is someone who loves costuming so much they're willing to work for far less money than they're worth so they don't have to do something else. It often involves a lot of production grunt-work making higher-margin dull and functional items so one can afford the time spent on fancy artistic projects. An amateur costumer is anyone who does it for the fun and the art, regardless of skill level, without looking for financial compensation. Amateurs also can choose to only do the fun projects. Frankly, I find the drain on my finances from paying for my own fabric to be far more acceptable than the inability to pay the rent that too often comes with an artistic profession. Besides, I actually like my well-paying tech job. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books
Robin Netherton wrote: Schaeffer, Astrida wrote: And please, please, if you have Peacock's history of costume (that one's a modern abomination), take it out and burn it. It has nothing but impossible line drawings and no facts to back anything up. If only I could make all copies disappear from library shelves Even better than burning it, send it to the Robin Netherton Home for Wayward Bad Costume Books. I have a shelf full of unreliable sources that I consult frequently when I'm trying to track down the origins of a misconception and to sort out the sequence of a chain of erroneous interpretations. I love discredited sources. On numerous occasions I've threatened to do historical masquerade entries based on known discredited sources (including the idea of doing ancient Egyptian based on Rosicrucian Society dogma for CC23 in Ogden, Utah at the Peery Egyptian Theater). andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references
Melanie Schuessler wrote: On Feb 21, 2008, at 10:13 AM, Chris Laning wrote: For instance, Robin is fond of pointing out that elaborately decorated or jeweled bands along the hemline are usually confined to queens, saints, angels and other people who don't have to worry about getting their hems dirty. ;) I'd like to point out that in the 16th century, highly decorated bands along the hemline were actually fashionable. It's true that only certain people (the wealthy) could afford them, but they're not markers of imaginary clothing in the 16th like they might be in earlier centuries. Every century and culture has its real but impractical clothing. The Japanese fashion of nagabakama (those long pants that trail for a meter or so behind you) was never practical, and really only wearable if one never left the confines of castles or shrines with immaculately polished floors. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Millinery:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In regards to where I am located, unfortunately for the sake of historical costuming/dancing, I was born in the wrong place it seems. I am in the oldest region of the US, Philadelphia area, and it is absolutely dry in terms of places not only to take classes on any sort of Victorian or period costuming, but there aren't any events that happen in this immediate area to wear them to. Nothing good is less than 3 hours from here in any direction so it is hard to get to places that hold ongoing classes. In fact, it seems only the west coast offers the best variety, I was considering going to the costume college this spring but it was sold out, maybe next year. You're more in Rev Regency territory, with a bit of mid-Victorian from the Civil War folks. Contact the Delaware Valley Costumers' Guild. http://dvcg.bravehost.com/ I'm not sure if Sandy will be able to respond; the last I talked to him he was really sick. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Patents: What was this used for???
Penny Ladnier wrote: Jackpot! I found one type of my attachments on the patent site: http://www.lib.muohio.edu/epub/govlaw/FemInv/patgifs/121293/01.jpg So...what is it for? Where the flat section at the top of Fig. 1, my box is a lot longer. How does it attach to the machine? I have some similar attachments with a flatter area where the curl is located on the patent. These clearly attach to the feeder bar. This type is stamped with the Standard logo and numbered B, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, smallest to largest. My mother said these are hemmers. She was not sure if the one like in the patent was for hemming. Your mother is correct, for the most part. There are some specialized variants on hemmers too. Here are a few (much newer) manual pages featuring hemmers, fellers and other such feet: Kenmore Rotary, P13-16: http://tinyurl.com/3x2kvr White Family Rotary, P12-14: http://tinyurl.com/2jwpjz Elna Supermatic, P31: http://tinyurl.com/2x2bnd Elna Supermatic, P55-56: http://tinyurl.com/2wkfnn Pfaff 332, P39-42: http://tinyurl.com/24r666 As for this one in particular? Google Patent Search to the rescue! The full patent text says it's an edger and feller. http://www.google.com/patents?id=70NtEBAJdq=121293 It looks like it's designed to attach to the work table just ahead of the presser foot to aid in feeding material to the presser foot, rather than being integrated into the foot like later designs. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Bamboo fabric
Lavolta Press wrote: Even given all that stuff about how eco-friendly it is? Some reading for you. http://greencotton.wordpress.com/2007/10/02/bamboo-miracle-plant-vs-troublesome-fiber/ I've not seen any bamboo that's been billed as bamboo linen on the racks where I've shopped. I'm going to assume that any bamboo that's not specifically listed as bamboo linen is bamboo rayon. I still want a good source of ramie. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] I love the Pendleton Outlet :-)
Wanda Pease wrote: Today was the last day of some friend's visit so we decided to go to Washougal, a tiny town on the Columbia River, Washington Side. The Pendleton outlet in Redding, CA also has yard goods, and some pretty nice stuff. I just don't have any plaid projects on the horizon so I haven't bought any the last two trips up there. and ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help! mildew mold along with some dye
Rickard, Patty wrote: The smell (mold/mildew) is actually the major problem. (I have a mold allergy) I'm going to second the sunlight treatment. Mold and mildew don't hold up well to ultraviolet. Between snow storms, hang it up where it will get a lot of sun and a lot of air. It should kill the fungus. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung
Chiara Francesca wrote: Shantung Once made from hand-reeled tussah silk, today's shantung is usually made with cultivated silk warp yarns and heavier douppioni filling yarns. Depending on the filling yarn, shantung may be lustrous or dull. It has a firm, semi-crisp hand and tends to ravel, so avoid close-fitting styles. It can be machine washed on gentle and dried on low. 29 mm Douppioni Douppioni is a plain-weave fabric with slubbed ribs. It has a stiff, taffeta-like hand and is usually dyed in bright colors. Douppioni is often made into elegant flowy gowns that are not fitted or for semi-fitted doublets and garments because the fabric doesn't stand up well to stress and ravels easily. Dry cleaning recommended. 19mm. It's also worth noting that there's a lot of variability in douppioni (which, as a friend of mine once said, translates to we don't beat our slack-ass weavers) and shantung. Indian douppioni tends to be pretty slubby. I've seen (and have) Chinese douppioni that could almost pass for taffeta. It's purely technique and weight, The quality of the silk (and the weavers) determines whether it's clean and clear or slubby and rustic. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fabric Shopping in China
Margo Anderson wrote: My sister has just found out that she's going to Shanghai next week. Can anyone tell me what kind of silk, or other cool fabric, she might be likely to find there, and what's a good price for it? Get some ramie. Vegetable fiber cloth, naturally bright white, pretty much unavailable in North America. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] danish costume museum: mounting question
Penny Ladnier wrote: Can anyone figure out how they mounted for display the ladies' costumes? Especially one like this: http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=119 It's hard to tell from the pictures, but however they did it, it was brilliant. I'm going to guess that they made hollow dress forms and cut away the portions that would show outside the dress. They could be fiberglass and painted to match the dress colors, or they could be clear polycarbonate. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Getting markings out of clothes
Tania Gruning wrote: Hiya all. I am in the process of making a shirt (not historical), that has been on hold for several years. When I started on the shirt, I used a wheel and tracing paper to get the pattern over to the fabric. It is white 100% linen. How can i get the marks out? it has been ironed a lot of times since then and I used a green tracing paper. I have not washed it yet, because I am afraid that will set the colour even better. 1. Mark some scraps to test-clean. 2. Run one through your normal wash cycle. If it works you're home free. 3. Try mixing up some oxy-clean with water and soak a test scrap in it. It may knock out the color. 4. Try Synthrapol SP. It's a de-greaser and removes stray pigment, and is commonly used before dyeing fabrics. 5. Try a mild chlorine bleach solution. Linen can usually stand up to that. Synthrapol SP from Dharma: http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/2127-AA.shtml andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Who licenses or acts as an agent for textile designs
Lavolta Press wrote: A publisher friend of mine wants to find someone to license and market, for mass manufacture, many years' worth of batik designs, only a small number of which are represented on: Check out the Surface Design Association http://www.surfacedesign.org/ They may offer networking opportunities that could help make this happen. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: repurposed fabric...repurposing in the 1940s
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Darling, I am home from 6 long years in the military and I just cannot wait to get out of this uniform and into my good old... I did it to save resources for the war effort... Come on, that one's easy. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costume photos
Lavolta Press wrote: Robin Netherton wrote: Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that happens every day in every university library and Kinko's. Ah: So since every crime and violation of law happens every day, somewhere, it’s OK for you to commit any of them? And we're back to the assumption of criminal intent and sniping. Fair use, people. Fair use. http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/copypol2.htm#test The general counsel of a major university system, writing in plain English for folks who aren't lawyers. It's directed at the faculty in his system. Of course, if you do want a more generic (and far more detailed) view, you can check out the Stanford Copyright Fair Use Center http://fairuse.stanford.edu/. They've got their own explanation of the Fair Use Test, but it's a bit more detailed: http://fairuse.stanford.edu/Copyright_and_Fair_Use_Overview/chapter9/9-b.html andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costume photos
Lavolta Press wrote: So, my first assignment for YOU is for YOU to go buy Richard Stim's _Getting Permissions: How to License Clear Copyrighted Materials Online Off._ It's readily available on the Nolo Press website, on Amazon.com, and probably in libraries. It contains an extensive discussion of this issue. Stim's work is the second reference I cited. He's the author of the Copyright and Fair Use Overview section at the Stanford's Copyright and Fair Use project. _Getting Permissions_ forms the core of that section. If you were checking citations instead of just tossing them around, you would have figured that out. I even cited him in a way that was easy for all the folks attempting to follow this discussion to follow. http://fairuse.stanford.edu/Copyright_and_Fair_Use_Overview/index.html So yes, reading Stim is valuable. I did. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: **JUNK** RE: [h-cost] costume photos
Robin Netherton wrote: And when was I pursued? Not me, but the magazine I worked for. Our designer created a cover design that used a Superman type treatment about super fund raisers and a visual image of an office worker opening his shirt to reveal a dollar sign treated like Superman's S. DC Comics saw one and made us destroy every remaining copy. I don't remember if we had to pay money too. That's trademark, an entirely different and much stranger subject. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] National Geographic: History of the Bra
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Now, if only they could make the underwires STAY in the bra and not poke through... I'm working on making sure my bamboo (skewer) boning stays in my kataginu and doesn't poke through... It's not like it's a new problem. It's just been relocated. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Safe Sex dres - and 500 Evening Gowns/Wearable Art
Elizabeth Walpole wrote: - Original Message - From: Sylvia Rognstad [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 9:15 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Safe Sex dres - and 500 Evening Gowns/Wearable Art At least, if you wear it on a date, you're always prepared! no, they would all have holes in them from being sewn together :) You're sure it's not glued? (not that it doesn't introduce new chemical problems...) andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Late 18th c. masquerade wear
Suzi Clarke wrote: People did not necessarily wear what we would consider fancy dress. They frequently wore evining clothes, and a domino over. This was a hooded cloak, for both men and women. There are patterns for both, taken from original garments, in Period Costume for Stage and Screen - Outer Garments Book 1 which includes Coats, cloaks, capes, and mantles. A mask would be worn with this cloak. There was a convention that if you were masked and cloaked, you were not recognised. Fancy Dress often still was consistent with formal wear. Back at Costume-Con 17, Deb Salisbury did a fabulous Harem Girl historical fancy dress costume which fused the pants of a harem girl with the bustle of the fashion of the day. Her research was rock-solid. http://www.costume-con.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItemg2_itemId=3733 andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Textile Question
Penny Ladnier wrote: I have an 1894 textile definition and wanted to know is this it classified as a particular weave or just a fabric. I'm not sure what this question means. Definition: Clay Worsted: A variety of flat-twilled worsted woven with a twill similar to that of serge, the diagonal lines lying flat on the surface and barely perceptible. On account of the warp and weft being slackly twisted the cloth does not take a gloss as in the case of the ordinary hard-twisted worsteds. Let's pick this apart. Flat-twilled is the weave. Fiber content would most likely be wool. Slackly worsted describes the preparation and spinning technique used to make the threads/yarns. Therefore, there is a specific weave associated with clay worsted, but clay worsted is a type of fabric. A bit more searching found the following reference to clay worsted: 1923 Woolen Materials and Tailored Plackets Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts Sciences, by Mary Brooks Picken http://vintagesewing.info/1920s/23-wmtp/wmtp-01.html#table Clay Worsted: Soft twilled fabric similar to serge. Used for dresses and suits. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Textile Question
Land of Oz wrote: Simplified examples would be a soft fuzzy wool blanket and a smooth shiny suiting. Both could use the same weaving structure (plain weave or twill), and both would be made from wool, but the soft fuzzy blanket would be made from loosely spun yarn and the suiting would be made from tightly spun yarn. Close, but not quite. The processing and spinning for a worsted yarn is a bit more complicated than just spinning more tightly. A worsted preparation technique involves carding and combing the fibers enough to remove the natural kink in the wool before spinning. A worsted spinning technique involves spinning the yarns very tightly to avoid any air spaces. The yarns for clay worsted, I'm going to guess, are made with a worsted preparation technique, but with a less-tight worsted spinning technique. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] So on the whole Japanese question...
I 'm going to eventually use the sand silk herringbone suiting,,, ...but for a draft/muslin/version-I'm-willing-to-wear-if-it-turns-out I found a green/yellow windowpane plaid that will definitely make striking hakama and (if the yardage alllows) a nice kataginu... andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re :tea
Penny Ladnier wrote: Oh Linda... hmmm... the Lipton factory is your neck of the road. From Modern Marvels tea episode: http://www.history.com/shows.do?action=detailepisodeId=214205 How did I miss this? The _Good Eats_ tea episode is a miracle... andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] It's time for Japanese...
At the beginning of September, PEERS (our local vintage dance society) is doing The Mikado Ball: A Topsy-Turvy Event and (since we have other events that need it too) I'm doing some Japanese costume for it. I'm looking for some good resources on Japanese clothes to help me along the way. Here's what I've already got: Folkwear 151: Japanese Hakama and Kataginu John Marshall's _Make Your Own Japanese Clothes_ Jenni Dobson's _Making Kimono and Japanese Clothes_ Norio Yamanaka's _The Book of Kimono_ _A Step to Kimono and Kumihimo_ (no author credited, Kyoto Kimono Gakuin) Alan Kennedy's _Japanese Costume: History and Tradition_ (and a few other things) I've also got a few websites bookmarked at http://del.icio.us/bovil/costume So at this point I'm likely doing Edo period costume; the patterns and books I have are sufficient for that. Does anybody have better resources on earlier Japanese costume, say Heian and Kamakura styles? andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume College
MaggiRos wrote: Speaking of Costyume College this coming weekend, who all on H-Cosatume is going, besides you and me and LynnD, I wonder? Kevin and I will be there, hosting the hospitality suite on Sunday evening for all of you who are still there but don't care about the CGW Annual Meeting... andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume College
Andrew Trembley wrote: MaggiRos wrote: Speaking of Costyume College this coming weekend, who all on H-Cosatume is going, besides you and me and LynnD, I wonder? Kevin and I will be there, hosting the hospitality suite on Sunday evening for all of you who are still there but don't care about the CGW Annual Meeting... Oh, and look for us throughout the rest of the weekend in our lab coats. Shouldn't be hard to miss. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)/Dracula
Suzi Clarke wrote: At 01:45 12/07/2007, you wrote: On Jul 11, 2007, at 5:12 PM, Anne Moeller wrote: It's a pity she looks like Gary Oldman in Dracula in one of the pictures!! (The bifurcated wig and lime green silk dress one.) Suzi I knew that dreadful look was familiar. Yuk!! I would love to know what inspired that! Does anyone know who the costume designer is on this movie? the funny thing is the Old Oldman Dracula butt-hair costume was one of the more historically-consistent designs in that film... Really? What period? I'd have to dig up the reference, but the robe and particularly the hair (yes, the butt-hair) were based on 15th-century Romanian burial costume. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tear-away briefs...
R Harper wrote: Hello, all - I've got an interesting theatrical costume project. Am helping with a production of The Rocky Horror Show, and one character wants tear-away briefs for underneath his very short kilt. snip I was told once by a fellow costumer who once worked for one of the many Chippendale's dance teams is that velcro was far too strong for tear-away clothing; too much wear and tear on the fabrics and the release was unreliable. What they used were little snaps, like the snaps used for baby clothing. I've never had occasion to use this technique, but I stored it away in my brain *just in case* I ever have occasion to sew for an ecdysiast... Yep. Snaps. Velcro doesn't let go (unless you're going to run your fingers along the seam). Why tear-away briefs, though? Are they going to show before they're torn off? If not, just have a pair of briefs that can be attached (not worn) under the kilt and pulled out. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
OT: job interviews (was Re: [h-cost] volunteering
Sylvia Rognstad wrote: On Jun 20, 2007, at 10:21 PM, Sheridan Alder wrote: The trendy thing nowadays is asking applicants to provide an example of a time that you had to deal with a difficult situation, customer, etc. Try to think of something, even if it seems pitiful at the time - like, when my sister tries to pick a fight with me, I just walk away and refuse to fight. A safe response might be, I asked my supervisor for advice to deal with the situation. I so hate it when I am asked that question in interviews. Doesn't everyone unconsciously forget those difficult situations because they were so unpleasant? I have wracked my brain for a good answer and have yet to remember one. I interview at work. I find it very valuable to see not how the interviewee responded to the problem in the example they give, but how they respond to the question in general. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Metrosexual???? OT
Saragrace Knauf wrote: Okay, this may be a little off topic, but since I heard it on the Tudor Fashion special (TFS) on showtime, maybe it isn't too bad. I heard the word Metrosexual (MS) for the first time in my life earlier this week in reference to what I can't remember, then I heard it yesterday for the second time on the TFS, and just now on NPR on Wait Wait Don't Tell Me. NPR's discussion implies that it is another word for homosexual, the TFS refered to Henry VIII as a MSwhat the heck is everyone talking about??? Someone who copulates with everything they can get their hands on?? Metrosexual refers to a heterosexual guy who is a fashion whore. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] even more CC25 photos...
John O'Halloran (our stage manager for next year) took a bunch and posted them to his flickr account http://www.flickr.com/photos/johno/collections/ Lots of pictures of Historical and Friday Night Social, less of FSF (none) because he was working the stage then. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Hero costume at Costume Con
Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote: Where and when is Costume Con? Costume-Con 25 St. Louis, MO March 30-April 2, 2007 http://www.cc25.net/start.htm Costume-Con 26 San Jose, CA April 25-28, 2008 http://www.cc26.info/ Costume-Con 27 Baltimore, MD May, 2009 http://www.costume-con.com/cc27bid/cc27flyer.pdf Costume-Con 28 To be determined by vote at CC25 in St. Louis Spring, 2010 Current bids: Milwaukee, WI http://www.spybid.org/ This enough to get you started? andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] re: The other Boleyn girl
Susan Carroll-Clark wrote: Greetings-- monica spence wrote: we are doing history in a completely different way. AAUGGH! Talk about revisionism! Lousy scholarship and bad costumes. In other words, they are doing history in exactly the same way as most historical dramas do it, alas. It's the movie industry. Didn't you realize that movie magic is convincing people that doing the same thing the same way over and over again is innovative? andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Tardis
Dianne Greg Stucki wrote: At 04:53 PM 12/11/2006, you wrote: I have one in my garage (don't ask), -C. Now you KNOW we have to ask! No, if she said she had one in her kitchen, asking would be imperative. Garage, not so much. (and I know why at least one person would have a police box in their kitchen) andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
