RE: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?

[Sharon Collier]

Holiday gifts, hah! I just finished making may daughter's Dickens dress and
hat. She said she wanted to make it herself, but with college, she didn't
have time and so, I was asked to do it1 week before Fair opening. But I
managed. If you go to Dickens, she's Miss Kate Nickleby, all in black. I'm
rather pleased with the way she looks, if I do say so myself. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 9:04 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?

Dear list,
Since the traffic has been light, and we assume people are busy, I'll kick
off with, are you busy making holiday gifts?
 
I'm making dresses for my granddaughters--I was inspired by some very
expensive dresses in an upscale children's shop in Las Vegas--I can make
something like that, I said.  Well, the original intent was to use what was
in my stash, but one of the pieces of fabric was so badly off grain (it has
a  printed
design) that I just couldn't use it, and what I bought instead didn't  match
color-wise, and I didn't have enough of another; so, after my 4th trip to
JoAnn's this afternoon, I'll be about done.  But I do have enough trims in
my stash, and some usable fabrics.  The dresses have a print bodice, solid
white skirt, and dark solid sleeves--one is navy blue, one red.  The skirt
has three rows of assorted trim in white and the color, the sleeve has
another  white trim around the edge, and each also has yet another trim
around the  neckline.  
The red and white one is almost done and is shaping up  nicely.  The navy
bodice is done, but the 4th trip to JoAnn's is for skirt  fabric for it.
 
After this, I'm done sewing again for a while.
 
Ann Wass



**Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
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RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's wearing?

[Sharon Collier]

The gentleman CAN slide his foot between, in fact, that is how we dance the
rotating waltz. Try it before you reject the idea completely. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Rickard, Patty 
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 6:04 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's wearing?

How wonderful you're keeping traditions in mind (of course, what more
appropriate place than a wedding).

Patty

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Barbara -_- M aren
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2007 11:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's wearing?

2007/12/4, Cin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
>
> So, what's your
> dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
>

Hi!

The last time this subject came up, I didn't even own one. But had a wedding
coming up and the crazy idea of sewing the costumes for it myself, so I won
one on e-bay which seemed the right size, which I took home, adjusted to my
measurements and proceeded to find that it was suitable to first model his
wedding suit on (a lovely 1830s frock, now finished).

So now, it's a few weeks later, the wedding is even more imminent, I have
lost eight kilos and had to compress the top part of dummy beyond its
specification. There is one way it's good that I'm so late with my own
dress: If I already had it now, it wouldn't fit any more.

And I've been thinking and thinking about the design! I want our clothes to
match. I want an 1830s full skirt. And people from this list have even
convinced me that it's possible to dance a waltz in a hoop skirt. But our
wedding dance is a tango, which requires that the gentleman should be able
to slide his knee _between_ the lady's legs. Again, hoops are out of the
question! :-( I have since had the privilege to watch a wonderful show on
'The Evolution of Dance', and it is amazing how obviously the dominant dance
of each time corresponds to the fashion worn then (mainly by the ladies).
And tango is 1920s -- flapper dresses :-( ! And the close, fast-turning
version of Viennese Waltz that we will dance afterwards actually came up
with, and wants, the late Victorian flat front and  narrow silhouette you
see e.g. in Renoir's famous dance portraits --
http://claude-monet.org/artbase/Renoir/1841-1919/apc825799/apc.jpg,
http://artyzm.com/obrazy/renoir-dance.jpg,
http://www.arthistoryarchive.com/arthistory/impressionism/images/PierreA
ugusteRenoir-Dance-in-the-City-1883.jpg.

So now I'm trying to incorporate all that into the design -- and the dress
dummy is currently wearing the first layer of underpinnings -- a 'slip'
to
make the skirt stand out from the body -- and I'm making the tiers of
netting open in the front, so there will be fewer layers there and our knees
can touch. Plus, a flat-fronted style should be more flattering to me,
anyway.

Ssh! Luckily he doesn't read this forum AFAIK -- he mustn't know! It's bad
luck if the bridegroom knows the dress of the bride beforehand (in German
tradition). The sewing room is taboo for him, and when I have to cut large
pieces of fabric and need more space, I have to send him away or wait until
he is asleep. Forgive my spelling of my name, I don't want it to come up in
an accidental internet search, so he can't stumble upon this conversation.
(By German tradition, it's also bad luck to sew one's own wedding dress, but
you can apparently revert that if someone else does the last stitch).

All the while "Bridal Gowns: How to Make the Wedding Dress of Your Dreams"
by Susan E. Andriks is helping me a lot. It has a *wealth* of tips and ideas
which are actually not just useful for wedding gowns.

Love to all
B arb ara M
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RE: [h-cost] cost] What's your dressmaker's wearing?

[Sharon Collier]

What is wool satin? I've never heard of it. Sounds yummy. Do you have pics? 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 3:50 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] cost] What's your dressmaker's wearing?

The girls that aren't naked are wearing underpinnings.
 
One's in the start of a mid 17th century gown in silk taffeta.
 
One's in the start of an 18th c sack dress that I'm making for a customer
going to the venice carnival on honeymoon - loosely based on an original in
Leeds - red
 
One's wearing a part made 17th century suit (male, obv) - black linen,
stiffended with linen canvas, and with boned belly pieces.  and with  silk
wrapped buttons.  that's on hold though, cos the customer is on his  way
back to afghanistan in a couple of weeks
 
and another male one is wearing a just started c17th suit - wool satin this
time
 
 
 



   
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RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's wearing?

[Sharon Collier]

Instead of wearing hoops, wear a couple of petticoats, after all, that's
what ladies did before hoops were invented. And no wire at the bottom. Good
luck! 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Barbara -_- M aren
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 7:38 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's wearing?

Thanks Patty, thanks Sharon!

slide feet between... for waltz. But how is that for the knees, in a tango?
Thanks for all these suggestions. Costume and dance both fascinate me and
it's amazing how they go together, and what's possible nevertheless.

The problem with the "try it out" is that I can't. Since he can't see the
dress before the wedding, not even have a hint about the design -- we can't
practice dancing in unusual clothes. I couldn't wear a hoop skirt to one of
the dance lessons, it would give away too much.

Will consider trying it for later! We will have to have a Victorian ball
around here...

B M

2007/12/5, Sharon Collier <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
>
> The gentleman CAN slide his foot between, in fact, that is how we 
> dance the rotating waltz. Try it before you reject the idea 
> completely.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> On Behalf Of Rickard, Patty
> Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 6:04 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's wearing?
>
> How wonderful you're keeping traditions in mind (of course, what more 
> appropriate place than a wedding).
>
> Patty
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Barbara -_- M aren
> Sent: Monday, December 03, 2007 11:16 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's wearing?
>
> 2007/12/4, Cin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
> >
> > So, what's your
> > dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
> >
>
> Hi!
>
> The last time this subject came up, I didn't even own one. But had a 
> wedding coming up and the crazy idea of sewing the costumes for it 
> myself, so I won one on e-bay which seemed the right size, which I 
> took home, adjusted to my measurements and proceeded to find that it 
> was suitable to first model his wedding suit on (a lovely 1830s frock, 
> now finished).
>
> So now, it's a few weeks later, the wedding is even more imminent, I 
> have lost eight kilos and had to compress the top part of dummy beyond 
> its specification. There is one way it's good that I'm so late with my 
> own
> dress: If I already had it now, it wouldn't fit any more.
>
> And I've been thinking and thinking about the design! I want our 
> clothes to match. I want an 1830s full skirt. And people from this 
> list have even convinced me that it's possible to dance a waltz in a 
> hoop skirt. But our wedding dance is a tango, which requires that the 
> gentleman should be able to slide his knee _between_ the lady's legs. 
> Again, hoops are out of the question! :-( I have since had the 
> privilege to watch a wonderful show on 'The Evolution of Dance', and 
> it is amazing how obviously the dominant dance of each time 
> corresponds to the fashion worn then (mainly by the ladies).
> And tango is 1920s -- flapper dresses :-( ! And the close, 
> fast-turning version of Viennese Waltz that we will dance afterwards 
> actually came up with, and wants, the late Victorian flat front and  
> narrow silhouette you see e.g. in Renoir's famous dance portraits -- 
> http://claude-monet.org/artbase/Renoir/1841-1919/apc825799/apc.jpg,
> http://artyzm.com/obrazy/renoir-dance.jpg,
> http://www.arthistoryarchive.com/arthistory/impressionism/images/Pierr
> eA ugusteRenoir-Dance-in-the-City-1883.jpg.
>
> So now I'm trying to incorporate all that into the design -- and the 
> dress dummy is currently wearing the first layer of underpinnings -- a
'slip'
> to
> make the skirt stand out from the body -- and I'm making the tiers of 
> netting open in the front, so there will be fewer layers there and our 
> knees can touch. Plus, a flat-fronted style should be more flattering 
> to me, anyway.
>
> Ssh! Luckily he doesn't read this forum AFAIK -- he mustn't know! It's 
> bad luck if the bridegroom knows the dress of the bride beforehand (in 
> German tradition). The sewing room is taboo for him, and when I have 
> to cut large pieces of fabric and need more space, I have to send him 
> away or wait until he is asleep. Forgive my spelling of my name, I 
> don't want it to come up in an accidental internet search, so he 

RE: [h-cost] huge fashion ingravings database

[Sharon Collier]

Bjarne, I love you! This is fabulous! 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 2:58 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] huge fashion ingravings database

I thoaght, as there are manny here who loves regency to send this link.
It has hundreds of fashion prints starting end of 18th century and onwards,
year by year.
Go to this page:
http://www.bibliothequedesartsdecoratifs.com/consultation2/consultation.html
click on recherche simple.
Type in mode in the place at the left, and put a mark under collection
macinet, then click recherche.
Now comes a full list of books to the left, mark one of them and click under
where it says voir les notices Then the title of the book appears to the
right, click the link in the bottom.
Then small images appear to the right, these are clickable to huge
resolution images wich pops up in new windows.
They are all downloadable, and gues who is a very happy man?
I know its a little difficult to find them, but if you do what i said here,
it should work for you!
There is enough for days i tell you

Bjarne
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RE: [h-cost] removing blod stains

[Sharon Collier]

A friend told me that if you bleed on fabric, you need to suck it out,
because your saliva will put your blood into solution. It worked on some
cotton I was working on. Anyone know if this is true or not? 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 11:30 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] removing blod stains

I remember i saw a tv programme from the workshop at Chanel where all the
work of the couturieres was shown.
It happened from time to time, that some of the ladies, stuck their fingers
and bleeded on the haute couture creations, but then they had a lady they
send for who emediately came and removed the blod stains.
What do you think they used?
I have often wondered about this, and also because sometimes it happens for
myself two.
What do you do?

Bjarne

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RE: [h-cost] removing blod stains

[Sharon Collier]

I notice that colored wax is a problem. So, match your candles to your
tablecloth! 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 8:47 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] removing blod stains

Speaking of removing stains, I thought folks might find this useful. It
covers food stains you might encounter during the holiday season. I know a
number of us go to parties and events in costume.


The Party's Over Stain Guide
Here's what to do - at the fatal moment and the morning after.

http://lifestyle.msn.com/homeandgarden/home/articlegh.aspx?cp-documentid=581
5504>1=10715




Dawn


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RE: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun

[Sharon Collier]

How long is your hair? Mine is just shy of shoulder length, so my bun is
tiny. I usually do a french twist instead and hold in place with plastic
hair pins--look like a 3" long "U". I get them from the Vermont Country
Store catalog. Then spray with hair spray to keep flyaway bits stuck down. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Gilbert
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 7:51 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun

I'm open to anything, short of super glue. A hair net might do the trick--or
all the techniques suggested on this fabulous loop used at once...

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
- Original Message -
From: "Rickard, Patty " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 10:38 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun


Mine stays in a bun better if it's slightly dirty - much more slippery if 
it's clean. Would a hairnet spoil the effect you want?

Patty



From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Gilbert
Sent: Wed 12/12/2007 5:07 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun



Dear All,

I had a book signing recently. In preparation, I pinned my hair up in a bun,
only to have the whole mass fall out of its pins soon after arrival. Do any
of you have any sure-fire suggestions as to keeping ones hair in a bun until
the owner of the hair wishes to remove the pins, and not the hair itself?

Thank you in advance! I do love this loop...

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net


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RE: [h-cost] is this based on a real portrait?

[Sharon Collier]

In the book, Victorian and Edwardian Fashion, by Alison Gernsheim, there is
a photo of a woman in a dress with a very similar neckline. It is dated
1845. (plate 14, if you have the book)

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of LLOYD MITCHELL
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 11:08 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] is this based on a real portrait?

My take on this is that it was taken from the V&A recent film and not from
life.  I do not believe that there are not many portrait pictures done of
Victoria on canvas. Since she enters history at the beginning of the
photographic method of capturing likenesses, most of what we know of her can
be documented on film (or tintype, dagaeru. and etc.

The comment made re the waistline setting is right-on. Most interpretations
of mid 19th century clothing for women do not have the body proportion of
bodice and skirt in line with the aesthetic of that period.

Kathleen


- Original Message -
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 12:06 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] is this based on a real portrait?


I believe it is based on one; check out any formal portrait of the
1840's-1850's of Queen Victoria in evening dress, because the neckline
looks evening. The Butterick pattern looks more like an interpretation
of the 1840's than 1850's. You might have luck in finding pictures of
Queen Victoria in such dress made when she and Prince Albert made a
state visit to France. I don't know about gold, but I think her formal
coronation gown was gold.

Cindy Abel

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 11:01 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] is this based on a real portrait?

I have seen a similar style worn by someone portraying QV but I do not
recall any of her portraits having this style. Most gowns that she worn
before she became a widow had some sort of lace on it or ruffle. Do note
that the pattern has the waistline to low. Actually I believe that Queen
Elizabeth II wore something like this gown in her early years.
QV, age 24 close
http://www.scholars.nus.edu.sg/victorian/painting/victoria/winter3.jpg

Victorian dresses
http://www.trousseau.net/trousseau2.asp?P=3&IEN=1805
http://www.trousseau.net/trousseau2.asp?P=2&I=881
http://www.trousseau.net/trousseau2.asp?P=2&I=170
http://www.trousseau.net/trousseau2.asp?P=2&I=140
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_500.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item9668.htm

-Original Message-
I've been looking at the cover photo on my copy of Butterick 3713
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2348/2119647295_6faec963f3_o.jpg and I've
always thought that this was based on a real portrait or image of Queen
Victoria, but I can't find a portrait of Queen Victoria that looks like
this or even a portrait of Queen Victoria in Gold, can anyone else think
of a real Victorian image this might be based on?
thanks
Elizabeth



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RE: [h-cost] OT: time traveller (was Re: is this based on a realportrait?)

[Sharon Collier]

Yes, but I notice the sleeves on the pattern aren't anything like the "real"
dress sleeves. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Exstock
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 2:48 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT: time traveller (was Re: is this based on a
realportrait?)

- Original Message -
From: "Sharon Collier" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> In the book, Victorian and Edwardian Fashion, by Alison Gernsheim, 
> there is a photo of a woman in a dress with a very similar neckline. 
> It is dated 1845. (plate 14, if you have the book)

Speaking of that book, if you'll turn to plate 11 and look at the 3rd guy
from the left (the one with his hand to his chin) you will see the EXACT
twin of a friend of mine from school who happens to be a genius physicist. 
Every time I look at that picture, I suspect him of having invented a time
machine, and being rude enough to keep it from me.

More topically, plate 8 from 1842 also bears a resemblance to the dress in
question.

-E 

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RE: [h-cost] Re: Wedding traditions (was Tango in a Hoop )

[Sharon Collier]

Yikes! Here's hoping for all the best for you. And Merry Christmas and A
very Happy New Year for you, too. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of B -_- M -_-
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 4:52 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wedding traditions (was Tango in a Hoop )

Hello,

thanks everyone who answered my questions about dancing in hoops, wedding
dresses and traditions, discussed styles with me, gave me all this support
and all those hints.

Yes, the dress is nearly finished now. At least, the major part is done. I'm
using modern techniques and traditional styles, totally unashamed of using
anything Victorian or 1830-ish, and I do have the hope it will match his
suit well.

But the wedding itself had to be postponed.

Less than three weeks before the intended wedding, and six days before my
own flight to the country where it would take place, I was diagnosed with
cancer. I'll have to have surgery right away. The flight was cancelled, as
were all bookings. Luckily, it's hopefully contained, I may not even need
chemotherapy afterwards.

So, this may be the last time I'll be online in a long time. Merry Christmas
to everyone!

Love

B -_- M -_-
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RE: [h-cost] Another Historical Wedding Question

[Sharon Collier]

Would it be the same as marriage by proxy? 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 3:23 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Another Historical Wedding Question

Hello!

I am doing some digging around for rules concerning types of marriage in the
British Empire in the 1870's. A Google search for British Common Law
Marriage got me a Wikipedia entry that had a reference that mentions
Marriage By Correspondence
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marriage_in_the_United_Kingdom#Scotlan).
However, I have been unable to find any other mention of it.

Do any of you have any more information about Marriage By Correspondence?

Henry Osier
Chief Spy
Costume-Con 28 in Milwaukee in 2010
www.CC28.org
View the latest Intell: http://agent-milw.livejournal.com/
Questions?: http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con_28/
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RE: [h-cost] Where can I find a lariat necklace

[Sharon Collier]

Try
www.jeeba.com

I saw their stuff at a garden show and it was very nice, affordable and the
items came in tons of semi-precious stone colors. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 5:16 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Where can I find a lariat necklace

I've recently had a fancy for a lariat necklace that looks Edwardian (or
even actually is). Semi-precious stones of some sort at the ends of the
lariat. Does anyone know of any websites that sell them?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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[h-cost] FW: Shrunken wool

[Sharon Collier]

 

  _  


I accidentally washed a wool sweater and it shrank. Is there any cure to
stretch it out again?
Sharon
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RE: [h-cost] Prayers, was: Re: Wedding traditions

[Sharon Collier]

I hope you have a speedy and complete recovery! Handwork is perfect for
recovery. My mom embroidered a whole tablecloth while recovering from
surgery and every time we used it, she'd tell us the story. :-) 
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of B -_- M -_-
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 1:33 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Prayers, was: Re: Wedding traditions

Hello all,

thank you, everyone for your kind words and wishes.
The surgery is now 2 weeks ago, and I am recovering.
I'm sure all those good energies helped!

It wasn't breast cancer, it was a cancer of the kidney. But given the
diagnosis,  the news are relatively good. The tumor was well contained and
hasn't spread anywhere. I have a good prognosis, and they say I won't need
chemotherapy. I was fit and healthy up to the operation, which is obviously
the best thing to possibly be when about to have major surgery done, I am
recovering really well. Right now, I don't have even pain any more, just a
scar straight down the middle of my tummy from the breasts to the belly
button. I get tired quickly, but other than that, I am fine.

So... I'm back online!

I wish a happy new year to all of you!

Love,

B -_- . M -_- .

On Dec 19, 2007, at 7:51 AM, B -_- M -_- wrote:

> Hello,
>
> thanks everyone who answered my questions about dancing in hoops, 
> wedding dresses and traditions, discussed styles with me, gave me all 
> this support and all those hints.
>
> Yes, the dress is nearly finished now. At least, the major part is 
> done. I'm using modern techniques and traditional styles, totally 
> unashamed of using anything Victorian or 1830-ish, and I do have the 
> hope it will match his suit well.
>
> But the wedding itself had to be postponed.
>
> Less than three weeks before the intended wedding, and six days before 
> my own flight to the country where it would take place, I was 
> diagnosed with cancer. I'll have to have surgery right away. The 
> flight was cancelled, as were all bookings. Luckily, it's hopefully 
> contained, I may not even need chemotherapy afterwards.
>
> So, this may be the last time I'll be online in a long time. Merry 
> Christmas to everyone!
>
> Love
>
> B -_- M -_-
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RE: [h-cost] white wool stockings

[Sharon Collier]

If not in the women's department, try a hiking/backpacking store. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 4:35 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] white wool stockings

I am going to an event in Sweden in start of february the north of Sweden,
where it usually is very cold for this season.
I wondered if someone knows if a womans department in a big warehouse would
have long knee woolen stockings wich i could wear to my 18th century outfit?

Bjarne
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RE: [h-cost] shrunken wool

[Sharon Collier]

Just shrunken.  

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Suzanne
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 4:51 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shrunken wool

Is it merely "shrunken"?  Or did it go all the way to felted?

Years ago, I heard of an old country remedy for slightly-shrunken sweaters
-- you soak the sweater in a solution of epsom salts and then carefully
re-block it.  But I never tried it and I can't remember the proportions
Does anyone know what I'm talking about???

Good luck!
Suzanne

> From: "Sharon Collier" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: January 4, 2008 2:17:39 AM CST
> To: "'Historical Costume'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [h-cost] FW: Shrunken wool
> Reply-To: Historical Costume 
>   _
>
>
> I accidentally washed a wool sweater and it shrank. Is there any cure 
> to stretch it out again?
> Sharon
>

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RE: [h-cost] Tudors & Sweating Sickness (OT)

[Sharon Collier]

Malaria occurs in areas other than tropical ones. In the book, "Little House
on the Prairie", the whole family gets malaria and thankfully, a neighbor
drops by and is able to get them medicine. Oklahoma in the 1860-1870's.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Julie
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 3:06 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Tudors & Sweating Sickness (OT)


  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
>   h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> >There is substantial mention of a "sweating sickness" that killed 
> >thousands during Henry VIII's time.  What was that?  No mention of 
> >buboes like for plague or marks like smallpox.  Did this really 
> >happen or was it just part of their story?  It was very contagious 
> >and people were told to burn all clothing & bedding.  I believe 
> >consumption is tuberculosis, right?  Any other old disease names with 
> >modern equivalents I should know?
> >
> >I know the costumes were discussed when the show first came out  What 
> >I found most jarring was anything from the neck up.  The hairstyles 
> >were extremely modern.  Long hair was down & exposed.
> >Crowns & headgear, at least on the women, looked fantasy or Las Vegas.
> >
> >Julie in Ramona
> 
> The "sweating sickness" is one of those medical mysteries that we may 
> never be able to answer.  It was evidently a real sickness (there are 
> many references in contemporary letters and documents), but what 
> caused it is unknown.  It was evidently not plague or smallpox, both 
> of which have readily recognizable symptoms; it was not tuberculosis, 
> which does not kill in a few hours or days.  From the descriptions, it 
> sounds, to me, like it could have been a particularly virulent form of 
> influenza or even malaria.
> 
> Joan Jurancich
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
Interesting.  My daughter mentioned malaria but I told her it couldn't be
that because it's tropical.  Cholera was mentioned as well.  I was thinking
along the lines of the horrible influenza in the U.S. in 19...teens that
killed so many.  Wasn't it called the Spanish Influenza?

Julie
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RE: [h-cost] tights

[Sharon Collier]

Don't know the price, but you might try the Vermont Country Store. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Carol Mitchell
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 3:18 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] tights

Since they have been mentioned, I thought someone might be able to help me.
Target used to carry 100% cotton tights for a reasonable price, but now they
carry microfiber, which my skin won't tolerate. Ditto nylon or mostly nylon
blend. Silk pantyhose were available for a few months, but apparently
weren't popular. I've found cotton tights for almost $20 a pair-has anyone
seen any natural fibre tights for less?
  Thanks
  Carol


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RE: [h-cost] Re: Tudors & Sweating Sickness (OT)

[Sharon Collier]

In the "Little House" books, Laura writes about a fabric they called
"mosquito bar", which they put over the windows to try and keep the bugs
out. Does that count for costume/fabric content? :-)

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Leah L Watts
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 6:37 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tudors & Sweating Sickness (OT)

 > Interesting.  My daughter mentioned malaria but I told her it 
> couldn't be that because it's tropical.  Cholera was mentioned as 
> well.  I was thinking along the lines of the horrible influenza in the 
> U.S. in 19...teens that killed so many.  Wasn't it called the Spanish 
> Influenza?

I've seen references to malaria in England in Victorian times, but don't
have the books handy right now.

And yes, the 1918 pandemic was known as the Spanish Flu (despite starting
out in Kansas, USA).  Sweating sickness doesn't quite match the 1918
symptoms ... but flu viruses are so mutable, you really can't go by that.

Costume content, costume content, there's gotta be some around here ...
"America's Forgotten Pandemic" has several references (and photos) of people
wearing gauze masks to protect themselves from the flu.  Anyone ever do a
Costume Con historical masquerade entry from 1918 with flu masks?  (It'll be
Milwaukee before I can go again, but I'm trying to decide on an entry
early.)

Leah
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RE: [h-cost] white wool stockings

[Sharon Collier]

I remember my mom squirming into hers. My brother (age 5 or 6 at the most)
did a parody of it (complete with grunts and groans) and we laughed til we
cried! 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lynn Downward
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 12:02 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white wool stockings

That's interesting. I wonder which of these dancers really did invent
them... I'm just thankful that they are invented! I remember those horrible
girdles I wore before pantyhose were available to us regular people.

LynnD


On 1/10/08, Sarah Paterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> In Ginger Roger's autobiography, she claims the invention.
> Sarah Paterson
>
> -Original Message-
>
> Ruth Anne asked if anyone had personal experience with pantyhose 
> before
> 1962
> and Lauren listed Wikipedia's history. In 1962 I was 9-10 and still 
> wearing white socks to church. However, my understanding is that Ann 
> Miller - the dancer/actor/singer with the incredible legs - held the 
> patent for the first pantyhose as pantyhose. If you've ever seen her 
> dance in her many movies, she always lifts her skirts so you can see 
> how fast she's tapping and lifts them as high as possible; she really 
> did have amazingly beautiful, long legs into her 70s. Anyway, she 
> found a need for stockings that were higher than the usual stockings 
> and went from there. She was very big starting in the mid-late 1950s, 
> right?
>
> Time for me to watch "On the Town" and "Kiss Me Kate" again...
> LynnD
>
>
> On 1/10/08, Ruth Anne Baumgartner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > No, they were definitely pantyhose--like stockings but attached to, 
> > well, stocking panties. Nobody could tell we weren't bare-legged.
> > --Ruth Anne
> >
> > On Jan 9, 2008, at 4:56 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >
> > > My two cents:
> > > 1) My late brother used to wear men's large Danskin ballet tights 
> > > as long underwear under his (fashionably tight) jeans. I mention 
> > > the male-dancer's tights as they might fit Bjarne better -- tights 
> > > or pantyhose that are too small get uncomfortable pretty fast, 
> > > either pulling on your kneecaps or creeping down until the crotch 
> > > is between your knees. Which will be particularly uncomfy in 18th- 
> > > century breeches!
> > >
> > > 2) Wikipedia says panty hose were first manufactured in 1965, but 
> > > prior to that, there were little girls' and dancers' tights  -- I 
> > > remember having them as a toddler at least as early as 1960.
> > > Wikipedia attributes the full-body "leotard" (which went to the
> > > ankles) to, ahem, Jules Leotard, who died in 1870. (The first 
> > > recorded use of "leotard" to describe a dancer's or acrobat's 
> > > costume in English is 1886, according to Wikipedia again.)  The 
> > > tights from my childhood weren't sheer like pantyhose -- indeed 
> > > some of them were waffle-weave, like thermals -- but they came in 
> > > flesh-tone colors (like "ballet pink", a slightly peachy pale 
> > > pink) and might be what you remember wearing under your marching 
> > > band skirt. They would have been warmer than pantyhose; living in 
> > > upstate New York, with its cold winters, I remember continuing to 
> > > prefer tights to pantyhose for winter wear through the mid-70s.
> > > Actually, I prefer them today; they last far longer and usually 
> > > fit better.
> > > -- Original message --
> > > From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >
> > >> As a former marching-band member, I'd like to second (belatedly) 
> > >> the recommendation of pantyhose (or tights) to layer with 
> > >> Bjarne's period stockings.
> > >>
> > >>> On a costume-history note: interestingly, I keep hearing that
> > >> pantyhose were invented in the late 'sixties, and certainly I 
> > >> didn't routinely buy them for ordinary wear until '68 or so; but 
> > >> my friends Connie, Joyce, another Joyce, Patty, Marilyn, Rita, 
> > >> and Marcia would join me in testifying that our mothers found 
> > >> them, bought them, and saved our musical knees with them as early 
> > >> as 1962. Can anyone else pinpoint an earliest-available date, from
her own experience?
> > >>
> > >> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> > >> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> > >>
> > >> On Jan 4, 2008, at 1:08 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > >>
> > >>>
> > >>> In a message dated 1/4/2008 10:40:35 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
> > >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> > >>>
> > >>> The best bet may be to layer stockings.
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> *
> > >>>
> > >>> This is what I was thinking too.
> > >>>
> > >>> Unless you want a more rustic look with the wool, I'd get a pair 
> > >>> of pantyhose or tights. They are very warm in themselves, but 
> > >>> put your silk stockings over them and you should be quite 
> > >>> warmunless it's like way below freezing.
> > >>> The modern super-stretchy tights would be very smoot

RE: [h-cost] sweating sickness

[Sharon Collier]

Probably had something to do with the native people having an immunity---for
example, if you carry the sickle cell anemia gene, but don't have the
disease, it gives you increased resistance against a common African disease
(might be malaria, but I don't remember offhand).  

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Carol Mitchell
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 4:36 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] sweating sickness


One of the historical fiction novels I read year's ago mentioned that the
disease had an uncanny ability to seek out Englishmen in other countries
(diet, perhaps?) & also that it seemed to be associated with outbreaks of
murrain in cattle. Does anyone know the modern name for that disease?
  Carol Mitchell


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RE: [h-cost] 60s source material available

[Sharon Collier]

Do any of the LotR calendars have the map, with all 7 of the Fellowship
walking next to each other across either the top or bottom? I remember a
poster like that and was trying to show it to my 12 yr old. If so, I'd love
it.
Sharon Collier 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of MaggiRos
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 2:04 PM
To: Historical Costume; Kate; Jess Malcom; Regina Voorhes
Subject: [h-cost] 60s source material available

Hi all,

I just pulled down a huge box from the top of the closet and found a bunch
of stuff from high school.
Most of it is crap, but there are a half dozen or so magazines (Tiger Beat
or whatever) that fall into the category we called "Beatles magazines".
They're full of the Beatles and other teen stuff, including current, mid- to
late-60s  fashions. If you want them, I'm willing pack em up and send 'em
for shipping costs from California.

There are also a number classic Lord of the Rings calendars, for you fantasy
costumers. These are from the mid 70s, mostly by the Hildebrandt brothers,
and one by Tim Kirk (autographed on the box it came in!).
Same terms. 

Help me clear my closets! First come first serve.

MaggiRos

Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The village was
burning when we got here.

Anon.
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RE: [h-cost] nice hems

[Sharon Collier]

Regarding pants for you-Lands End makes a lot of their pants in a Tall
version. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Exstock
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 3:30 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] nice hems

My method developed from a blend of laziness and perfectionism, and the lack
of a sewing helper.  I put the dress on (inside out, if I plan for it to be
unwashable).  Then I grab a chalk marker or colored pencil, and stand beside
my kitchen counter.

My kitchen counter happens to be just the right height--about an inch below
the widest part of my hips--but any flat surface that's at the right height
and wide enough to rest the chalk marker on would work just fine.  You might
consider piling books on the edge of a table or desk until it's the right
height, if you're not so lucky with your kitchen counter.  Your surface
needs to be high up enough that there are few folds in the skirt where
you're marking, but low enough so that you're just barely past the widest
part of your lower half, and your hips and rear have already had whatever
effect they're going to have on the placement of the hem.

Standing beside my surface, I press the marker down on it, point out, with
the hand opposite the side I'm about to mark.  For example, if I'm marking
my left side, I use my right hand to hold the marker in place.  Then,
standing as straight as possible, and using my other hand (in this example,
the left hand) to make sure that as much of the fabric as possible comes
into contact with the marker, I rotate slowly; the marker marks the fabric
as I go.  (It's ok to miss an inch or two, here and there, with your marks;
you can generally figure out later where the curve should go based on what
is marked.)  If you're generally symmetrical, you can get away with marking
only one side; personally, even though I am symmetrical when it comes to
length I like to mark both sides and average out the curves, just to make
sure the mark is accurate and I didn't twitch at the wrong moment.

Once the curve is marked, I measure the distance from the surface to the
floor.  Ok, I don't, because I've got it memorized: 36" exactly. (Why yes,
it is hard for me to buy pants.) That means that if I want to have a
floor-length hem, I need to measure down exactly 36" inches from the curve I
just marked, plus seam allowance.  Whatever your surface-to-floor distance
is, use it to figure out how much you need to add to the curve to reach your
desired length + seam allowance.

Take off your dress, and lay it flat on the floor, with a fold from the top
of the front to the bottom at one end, and the back at the other.  The
bodice and sleeve portion should be all bunched up at the top of what will
look vaguely like a triangle.  Lock up your cats, and smooth the gown out
all nice and tidy, with the current hem edges matched together as perfectly
as possible.  Pin the current hem edges together every foot or so, so that
when you cut the new hem you can be sure that you're cutting the same amount
off of each side.  (Unless you're asymmetrical and had to mark each side
separately; in that case you don't need to mess with pinning.  Just be sure
to mark the new hem as below on both sides!)

Get a yardstick, or two if you are planning on a longer-than-floor length. 
(If two, go ahead and tape them together to the correct length; it'll save
headaches.)  Then, ignoring where your seams are, place the yardstick at a
90 degree angle to your marked curve.  The easiest way to do this is to line
up the top edge of your yardstick with the marks.  Then, at your desired
length, make a mark on EACH side of the yardstick.  Move your yardstick an
inch or two further along your marked curve, remembering to readjust it so
that it's at that 90 degree angle and the top edge matches the curve, and
mark again.  This should place your next set of hem marks several inches
from your first set--far enough that you don't have to spend all day
marking, but close enough that you can easily draw in a curve.  Continue all
the way around, and then go back and join up your hem marks in a smooth
curve.  If you're particularly nervous, you can unpin the hem, try the gown
on to see if your new hem marks are satisfactory, and then go back through
the smoothing/pinning process again before you cut your new hem line, but
personally I'm far too lazy for that.

If you have an especially wide skirt or are trying for an especially tough
hem length (like exactly floor-length all the way around) it may help to
make preliminary marks on your curve mark, dividing it up into equal
sections--say, front, front-side, side, side-back, back. Then, measure the
length of the front, side, and back first, making sure that the side hem
measurement mark is exactly halfway between the front & back hem marks. 
Then, you can mark the hem halfway between the front and the side, then
halfway between the front and the front-side, and so on, using your
p

RE: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question

[Sharon Collier]

Sounds like a masquerade all to me. I just went to a costume ball wedding
and the bride wore 17th century costume, with powdered hair. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Agnes Gawne
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 11:04 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question

My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically regarding
a ball in Washington DC.  Do any of you have any idea why an 1867 woman
would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her neck?

Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John Hay.  He was
Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the Lincoln administration
and then got sent to France as a diplomatic attache during the Johnson
administration.  He wrote about the ball in DC in February 1867 when he'd
just returned from Paris.

begin quote:
"February 11.  Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball.  The ladies who danced
the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a la marquise.
I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a
roomful.   Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with
whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and Mrs.
Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of the blue ribbon
around the neck, a little refinement in which she was alone -- Miss Kinzie,
a fresh Western beauty and a superb danseuse.
Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully dressed."
:end quote

I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers as they
are just theories.

Thanks,
Agnes 

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RE: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT

[Sharon Collier]

I just got a new iron, a Westinghouse, cost $20 at Target. What I like about
it is that it changes color depending on the temperature. This is a really
good feature, as my old iron melted some taffeta (thankfully only the seam
allowance). 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 3:47 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT

I just dropped my Rowenta on my hard tile floor for the fifth or sixth time,
and it finally started to leak.  Wha!

I just looked at Consumer Reports - their last iron review was in 2006.  (I
wrote them and asked them to do another soon.) I also contacted Threads
magazine since most of their recent reviews are on more expensive "ironing
systems."

But I'm interested in your personal experiences.  What do you like best? Are
you aware of reviews in other publications?
I've had great luck with my Rowenta(s), but am also aware that their service
records in years past hasn't been great.

Don't forget Model numbers - sometimes they just aren't available anymore!

Thanks

Sg

P.S. If you have an ironing system you use and like, please give your
opinon.


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RE: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question

[Sharon Collier]

If the label said "Bicentennial" that would mean it was dated 1976,
correct?, no matter what the fabric looked like. Or was it celebrating the
bicentennial of his birth, 1932?

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Katy Bishop
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 5:45 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question

Years ago I came across a costume in an antique store, a pitiful little
cheap cotton dress, looking like 1920s or 1930s cloth and basic design, done
in pseudo-18th century style.  The makers label said it was a George
Washington bicentennial dress.  I have since regretted not having bought
it.

Katy

On Feb 5, 2008 4:59 PM, Janet Newton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> How about a ball in honor of George Washington's birthday   -
>
> The original version of the holiday was in commemoration of George 
> Washington's birthday in 1796 (the last full year of his presidency).
> Washington, according to the calendar that has been used since at 
> least the mid-18th century, was born on February 22, 1732.  According 
> to the old style calendar in use back then, however, he was born on 
> February 11.  At least in 1796, many Americans celebrated his birthday 
> on the 22nd while others marked the occasion on the 11th instead.
>
> By the early 19th century, Washington's Birthday had taken firm root 
> in the American experience as a bona fide national holiday.  Its 
> traditions included Birthnight Balls in various regions, speeches and 
> receptions given by prominent public figures, and a lot of revelry in 
> taverns throughout the land.  Then along came Abraham Lincoln, another 
> revered president and fellow February baby (born on the 12th of the 
> month).  The first formal observance of his birthday took place in 
> 1865, the year after his assassination, when both houses of Congress 
> gathered for a memorial address.  While Lincoln's Birthday did not 
> become a federal holiday like George Washington's, it did become a legal
holiday in several states.
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Agnes Gawne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 1:03 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
>
>
>
> > My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically 
> > regarding a ball in Washington DC.  Do any of you have any idea why 
> > an
> > 1867 woman would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her neck?
> >
> > Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John Hay.  
> > He was Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the Lincoln 
> > administration and then got sent to France as a diplomatic attache 
> > during the Johnson administration.  He wrote about the ball in DC in 
> > February
> > 1867 when he'd just returned from Paris.
> >
> > begin quote:
> > "February 11.  Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball.  The ladies who 
> > danced the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a 
> > la marquise.  I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a
> > roomful.   Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with
> > whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and 
> > Mrs. Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of 
> > the blue ribbon around the neck, a little refinement in which she 
> > was alone -- Miss Kinzie, a fresh Western beauty and a superb danseuse.
> > Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully 
> > dressed."
> > :end quote
> >
> > I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers 
> > as they are just theories.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Agnes
> > ___
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> >
> >
>
>
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--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
[EMAIL PROTECTED]www.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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RE: [h-cost] Thank You Albert (OT) plus some Miss America info

[Sharon Collier]

A good case is the Mountain View performing Arts Center. It was designed
with a lovely fly loft. But a city architect thought the fly loft spoiled
the "look" of the building, so he cut it down by half. (at least, that's the
story I heard, but it is so believable) 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of michael tartaglio
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 6:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Thank You Albert (OT) plus some Miss America info

Amen, Brother! I am constantly amazed by how much these "theater design
professionals" make on designing such non-functional crap. I have been in
only a few places that really show some (pardon the phrase) intelligent
design. On a good note, our Brother and Sister writers will hopefully soon
be back. As a side note, any one interested in some pics of Miss America
gowns? The MAP is moving their offices from one of the venues I'm working
at. The gowns and some shoes (from the "show us your shoes" schtick of the
MA parade) will probably not be there long. There are about 7 gowns and 15
pairs of (mostly silly) shoes. Let me know within a few days and I'll take a
camera in and snap some pics. Cheers, Mike T.


>
>And theatres are designed by people who have never done anything but 
>sit in the audience. Back stage! We need some back stage space 
>please Not just in  the wings. It would be nice to not have to go 
>out in the parking lot to cross  from stage left to stage right during a
performance.
>
>
>  
>
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RE: [h-cost] Costume shop

[Sharon Collier]

The kitchenette was for washing out paint brushes, of course, and the other
part was for making food for use onstage. (white bread with an apricot half
for "eggs", etc.), and for heating the dye water. 
Tee-hee :-) 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of LLOYD MITCHELL
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 10:52 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume shop

And how about the "Greenroom"...located in the main lobby; but painted
green...with a little kitchenette for ?
Kathleen
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 11:41 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume shop


>
> In a message dated 2/11/2008 11:09:52 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> I think  most costume shops were designed by someone who had never 
> been IN one, much  less worked in one!
>
>
>
> And theatres are designed by people who have never done anything but 
> sit in the audience. Back stage! We need some back stage space 
> please Not just in the wings. It would be nice to not have to go 
> out in the parking lot to cross  from stage left to stage right during 
> a performance.
>
>
>
> **Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
> (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp0
> 0300025
> 48)
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RE: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question

[Sharon Collier]

Mourning underwear. Black petticoat for wearing under Ren dress so the dirt
doesn't show as much as with lighter fabrics. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 9:21 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question

I just scored 5 1/3 yards of linen blend at my local Joanne's on clearance
for only $3.00/yard!  The only trouble is that it is black linen - but I
thought "Hey, linen - only $3 - I can make something from that!"  My
question to the group now - what can I make? I do have linen in other colors
as  well, but what periods, styles or  types of garments could I use with
the  black?  
Bodices? Petticoats? Dresses?  I'm open to most periods -  mostly involved
in Renaissance Faires - but also love Regency and late  Victorian/
Edwardian.  There is no hurry for this  -- I just need  to know some
possiblities.
 
Thanks to y'alls collective wisdom.
 
Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity



**The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.  
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp0030002565)
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RE: [h-cost] Re: Black Linen

[Sharon Collier]

Where are you located? I ask because there are some Victorian costume
classes about to start around here (San Francisco bay area). It is a series
of classes, starting with underwear and moving on to the outer garments,
meant for folks who wish to make their own costume for the Dickens Fair
(1840-1860-ish). If you are interested, I'll send you the info. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 12:42 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Black Linen

Hello all, I am new to the list and this is my first post! :) In regards to
the dilemma with what to do with the 5 plus yards of black linen, I know
from experience that when something good like that lands on your lap it's
very hard to chose a project with it later, my bins are full of about 5 yd
cuts of absolutely gorgeous satins and laces that I am afraid to use because
there is only enough for one dainty outfit and then it's gone. When the
black linen comes to mind, the late Victorian or Edwardian period definitely
is a good era to use it on, so many suits and things were made with black
linen. In fact, the dress Rose's mother is wearing in the scene when they
are touring the ship comes to mind also. You can make a slim walking suit
with that and use a white silk and light coloured or even brightly coloured
lace in addition to that.
I need some advice on accessory making, particularly hats. I have only made
one hat and it was entirely without the assistance of a purchased pattern. I
would like to start making more Victorian and Edwardian era small
accessories as well, not just garments though I am not sure where to start
or what formal techniques other costumers use! Do the majority who have made
them use both patterns and techniques acquired from a hat making class?
Justine:)



More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! -
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RE: [h-cost] new waistcoat

[Sharon Collier]

Aylwen, I do Renaissance dancing also. Do you have any videos of your
performances? We mostly do Italian and French court dances.
Sharon C.(oops, have to add costume content-we do them in period costume)

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Aylwen Garden
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 12:43 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new waistcoat

It is beautiful! A friend just embroidered an 18th C Frockcoat I am sewing -
I will take photos soon to share, but we are both very inspired by your
work!
Regards, Aylwen
http://www.bordonia.org

On Fri, Feb 15, 2008 at 6:13 AM, Frank A Thallas Jr <
[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>  O, Bjarne, just saw the pictures on LJ - I am SO coveting this.  
> It is beautiful!
>
> Liadain
>
> THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
> wildernesse, the Outlands
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
> Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 4:56 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] new waistcoat
>
> Yesterday evening i finnished the second part of the new waistcoat. I 
> am pleased, it looks like porcelain i think.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/g10.htm
>
> Bjarne
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RE: [h-cost] Help Finding Theatrical Costumes

[Sharon Collier]

Have the grey tops button up to the neck, with overlapping fronts "lapels",
rather like a military coat. Line the lapels with the bright colors you
want. Then, by opening the neck and folding back the lapels, you'll get a
quick color change. The rest of the top will still be grey, but not so
noticeable if the lapels are large.
Or just make the grey tops easily removable (Velcro or snaps), with the
colorful tops underneath.
You could also add/switch/flip scarves, capelets, etc. Do all the costumes
have to be the same? I might be fun to see how many different ways you can
switch to color.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Anthony Toohey
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 11:29 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Help Finding Theatrical Costumes

Greetings:

I just joined this list and the fantasy list at the beginning of the week as
these were the only costume related forums I could find.  I don't want to
muddy up the list with off-topic stuff, so hopefully someone here can point
me in the right direction.

I'm directing a play that takes place in the 1930's.  Finding authentic
costumes isn't proving difficult, HOWEVER,

For one scene we need the actors to be able to do a quick change from plain
grey to colorful tops while onstage, hopefully by throwing back a flap or
cape/cloak of some sort.  Is anyone here involved in theater costuming and
has experience with this sort of thing?  Or do you know where I can find
this info?

Any help is appreciated.  Forgive me if this is a little off-topic.

Thanks,

Anthony Toohey
The Stage Hands
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [h-cost] Re: black linen costume

[Sharon Collier]

I just saw "Becoming Jane" last night (thanks Netflix!) and she had some
very nice dresses made of linen.A dark blue walking dress, especially. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 12:09 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re: black linen costume

I want to thank everyone who gave me some ideas of what to do with my 5+
yards of black linen.  It may go for bodice lining primarily, but some of
the other non-monochromatic images were intriguing.
 
(I have to stop buying material for which I have no immediate use, I keep
telling myself but I always give in!)
 
Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity



**Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.  
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2050827?NCID=aolcmp0030002598)
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RE: [h-cost] 18th/19th century clothing resources

[Sharon Collier]

I'm assuming you know about the ban on tartan and kilts after 1745. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Melissa B. Muckart
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 1:40 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 18th/19th century clothing resources

I've sending this in behalf of a friend who is looking for websites, books
or other reseruces as reference for 18th and 19th century clothing. The
paragraph below is a cut and paste from her email (with
permission):

"The book I am editing is set in late 1700's-early 1800's Scotland. The
second book is early 1800's, set in the Caribbean islands (with English and
French, and island people) as well as London and Scotland, perhaps Paris.
Anything you send on costumes will be tucked away and used. 
It's so important to get these details right, so having resources I can
trust is huge."

If you have any suggestions of where she can look, please let me know, or
you can email me off-list if you prefer.

Thanks in advance,

Melissa
goslomo at gmail dot com

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RE: [h-cost] OT a farewell.

[Sharon Collier]

For those of us, like me, who stupidly lost your website address, would you
please post it so that I can bookmark it and check out your wonderful work
from time to time?
Sharon C. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 7:01 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT a farewell.

Hi all,
I hate to do this, but i dont think that h-costume has any topics with my
interrests anymore. And as my time is valuable for me, i have desided to
leave.
Just want to say thanks to all for the nice company and i hope you will have
manny interresting disgussions in the future. 
Take care.

Bjarne
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RE: [h-cost] OT a farewell.

[Sharon Collier]

Thank you. I was talking to a friend and tried to show her his costumes and
realized I'd deleted it somehow along the way.
Sharon C. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 10:41 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT a farewell.

I think he has already left.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/

-Original Message-
For those of us, like me, who stupidly lost your website address, would you
please post it so that I can bookmark it and check out your wonderful work
from time to time?
Sharon C. 



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RE: [h-cost] What color is Bottle Green?

[Sharon Collier]

My husband had to make a coat for his character, Mr. Brownlow, from "Oliver
Twist". In the book it describes him as wearing a bottle green coat, so we
went looking for material of that color. We found what we thought was the
perfect color, a dark, but still bright green, but at over $150 a yard, we
decided to go for something slightly different. The color we ended up with
was brighter, but under the lights (ambers, mostly) it's OK. When did
aniline dyes become widespread? OT was set in the 1840's, so bottle green
could/would have been duller than we're used to today, correct?

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Christine Shamblin
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 2:29 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] What color is Bottle Green?

I need some help in determining what color is being referred to when the
term "bottle green" was used in the early 19th century.

Free online Dictionary (http://www.thefreedictionary.com/bottle+green)
calls it " A dark to moderate or greyish green", and Wiktionary (
http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/bottle_green) says "a dark
greencolour, like that of some wine
bottles ." and gives a color
swatch.  I don't really trust a color swatch on a computer monitor, however.

I think I need a physical swatch. Can someone in the know point me to a
paint chip (e.g. Behr paint color #1234), or a DMC embroidery floss or
Madiera thread color number, or some such thing?  Or would someone who has
some bottle green fabric be willing to send me a small snippet?

Thanks.

Christine Shamblin

--
"I'm a Material Girl...want to see my fabric collection?"
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RE: [h-cost] Compendium going to print

[Sharon Collier]

Oo! I want one! 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of MaggiRos
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 2:03 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Compendium going to print

Hi gang,

It's a little early to be promoting this, I suppose, but I thought some of
you would like to know that finally I've been nudged sufficiently and have
the resources at last to Just Do It: self-publish the Compendium of Common
Knowledge, 1558-1603, otherwise available as
http://elizabethan.org/compendium --yes, ISBN and index and everything. 

I've even hired a professional book designer(someone whose work I know), so
it will be properly typeset and actually look like a real book, as well as
be one. It should be ready sometime this summer as a trade paperback via
Print On Demand (printer still TBD).
That means you'll order it online and they'll make you a proper bound copy
and send it to you.  Can't say what the price will be yet, of course, but
I'll keep it as reasonable as possible. After all, we're giving it away
online every day. :-)

Not a lot of costume content, I know, but hey, all those Elizabethans need
some context! More news as it becomes available,

MaggiRos

Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The village was
burning when we got here.

Anon.
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Re: [h-cost] A plea for help

[Sharon Collier]

Where are you and by when do you need them?
Sharon in California 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Aylwen Garden
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 10:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] A plea for help

I am busy making another renaissance dress for my daughter, so am asking if
anyone might be able to help me with some sewing.
Our dance group needs 15 white cotton blouses with full/puffed sleeves to
the elbow, elastic and then some lace that extends past the elbow.
It is a blouse similar to what the Hungarian, Polish & German female dancers
wear. I've seen some on square dance sites but there are too many ruffles
around the neck for us.
Thanks, Aylwen
Bordonian Heritage Dancers
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Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe

[Sharon Collier]

Is this 16th century? If so, I'd love to have one.
Sharon Collier 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Wanda Pease
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 5:12 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe

 Re: looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
>
>
> Can I just add that anyone who doesn't have a copy of this marvellous 
> book should really think about getting one as a standard reference if 
> they work on the 16th century, much like Janet Arnold's. I've had my 
> copy for about 8 years now, and it's one of the most useful books I've 
> ever had (

After reading the information above I went to the David Brown site to order
another softback.  Sadly they came back "haven't any more".  I cried, I
whined, I send pleas directly to Ian Stevens their friendly marketing
director who just happened to be in England at the moment.  He sent our into
the dim reaches of Oxbow books warehouse and unearthed the last 5 copies
they had.

I say Had because I now have them.  They are $70 each because David Brown
charged $65 plus $5 shipping.  If you want one I can let you have it for
that plus the amount it will cost to media mail (or other, contact me) it to
you.  I'm also trying to get my hands on some others that aren't perfect,
but can be made to have all the information.

Now this is not an attempt to undercut either Oxbow, David Brown (my
favorite form of Crack), or Mr. and Mrs. Bean.  I desperately want this book
back in print.  The thing is that I believe that it would sell slowly but
steadily in about 200 copies per year (or am I under/over estimating?).
David Brown would be happy to handle the selling if it had the opportunity.

Buying copies to the Editor/Translator/book publisher get money for more
copies and Royalties for all their hard work is the only way to get this
done.

Anyway, if anyone wants a copy now, let me know and we can probably make a
deal.  Like Hilary, this is a book I wouldn't be without.  The patterns are
to scale and really work.  It isn't a book for a new sewer.  It may not even
be a book for someone who hasn't worked with period style patterns before.
Took me years to figure out what was going on with some of them, but then
it's a Eureka! moment.

Regina Romsey.
P.S.  If you live in England or a European country, you might try and
contact Mrs. Bean directly.  If they have more copies available themselves,
I'm sure they would be happy to sell too!
e:
> >
>

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Re: [h-cost] A plea for help

[Sharon Collier]

I happen to have living with me a German exchange student, (is that
serendipitous, or what?) so if you don't have anyone to translate the
Vendish site, I will ask her to do it.
Sharon Collier 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Aylwen Garden
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 4:51 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A plea for help

We are in Australia but I buy a lot from the US. I would prefer to buy from
US or Australia, not the UKas our dollar is too weak against the pound &
euro.
I've found a few pictures of what we need. The bodice/waistcoat will be
black, blouse white cotton with cotton lace (so it can be bleached
later) and the full circle skirt purple with gold trim. Ideally bodice black
wool, but that may be too expensive, so a solid cotton twill lined with
cotton, black eyelets for lacing up. If anyone cares to quote for a whole
outfit that would be fantastic. We need 15 of these but have a limited
budget, so we can sew trim on to save costs & hem the skirts. I have to pay
for all this myself as the students can't afford it. If I can pay off in
instalments that would be perfect, and we'd need to do one as a dummy run to
make sure its okay. I'm happy to pay for that one as well. We need to have
these done by the end of July, so there is not much time. We want to use
them in August and will be touring to New Zealand in September.
http://costumes.lovetoknow.com/images/Costumes/0/0d/National_costumes.jpg
http://www.pirkadat.org/photos/20041209/cp5+.jpg
http://www.dvorana.cz/costumes_jp/turnov/tur-celek-1.jpg
Cheers, Aylwen
ps. so we get this off the list, please reply to my email at
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Re: [h-cost] Adding color to silk

[Sharon Collier]

Having gotten way too much paint on my clothes over the years, (I paint
sets, I can tell you that acrylics do not easily wash out. Plus, they go
through the washer and dryer. I've washed my paint clothes loads of times.
Try the wash/paint technique first, because they do add stiffness.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Alexandria Doyle
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 1:55 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Adding color to silk

I have a length of silk taffeta that has an embroidery pattern that is
invokative of an Elizabethan pattern, except that it is all off-white on
off-white.  I would like to add color to the flowers without embroidering
them all.
So I was thinking of painting dabs or washes of color to those flowers.  I
know that there are special paints that are typically used on silk, but I
was wondering about using paints closer to hand -
watercolors, gouaches, acryllics and oils?   Anyone have experience of
using these on silk fabric?  This gown will be worn occasionally - maybe two
or three times a year at most, and I expect it to be hand washed only when
it needs it.

thanks
alex
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Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe

[Sharon Collier]

Is it only men's clothes?
Sharon 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Wanda Pease
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 8:31 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe

Blink, Blink!  Hmmm.  I see I wasn't as plain about this book as I should
have been if you aren't already familiar.  This book was written by a
tailor, Juan Alcega, who worked in the 1580's in Spain.  He produced the
Manual to help young tailor's with their art.

If you are thinking full sized patterns of the present Butterick  type (I
think he invented the present type of patterns we buy) this isn't for you.
These are the pattern pieces laid out on various period widths of fabric
with the fairly confusing directions (nowhere near as bad as present
instructions, which I can't follow to save my life :-).  Definitely good to
have help understanding.

Juan Alcega was a real tailor who lived and worked in Spain.  The pattern's
I have blown up to size for my costuming have worked perfectly, once I
understood how they were put together.  The ones in the actual book and it's
translation/re-drawing by Mrs. Ruth Bean are to scale.  This means I can
decide that a "barra" is 36" (give or take a bit it was) and the Scholar
Robe fits a man 5'10" perfectly.  It also looks exactly like the paintings.

A quick way of seeing what I'm talking about is to look at the Janet Arnold:
the Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women: 1560-1620.  In the
first few pages you will see one of these patterns and the illustration of a
man wearing that robe.  The entire book is patterns of that type.  Certainly
you can make one of the Spanish middle class outer garments from these.
They aren't court garments, nor are they "underwear" other than a
farthingale and possibly a chemise (I have to look at my tattered copy of a
the original I made so I could put markings on the patterns).  No ruffs, no
corsets.  A tailor wouldn't be making these.

Regina Romsey

> -----Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Sharon Collier
> Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 11:53 AM
> To: 'Historical Costume'
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
>
>
> Is this 16th century? If so, I'd love to have one.
> Sharon Collier
>

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Re: [h-cost] Adding color to silk

[Sharon Collier]

Doesn't the oil in the paint spread, making an oil spot? I've never used
oils, as in theatre we can't have flammable paints. Before acrylics, we used
to make our own paint, using hoof-and-horn glue. We called it casein paint.
You mixed the ground up stuff (hooves and horns, apparently) up with water,
heated it and mixed in dry pigment. Perhaps this is what they used in olden
times for fabric. 
You can still get that kind of glue-it's called "mucilage" or possibly
"hide" glue, the brown stuff that used to come in a glass bottle with an
angled rubber top. It's hard to find, though. If your local stationary or
craft store doesn't have it, try a wood working store. You can mix it with
dry paint pigment or dye (if the dye is alcohol based, you have to dissolve
the dye in alcohol first, but then can mix in the thinned glue. If I recall
correctly; I haven't done this in years.) You could use poster paints for
the colorant, they are just dry pigment without a binder. The glue acts as a
binder.
Another name for this might be "milk paint". This is sometimes found on old
furniture. Apparently it's a pain to remove from furniture if you're
refinishing. I've never come across it myself, but I think it's a version of
this type of casein-based paint.
Sharon C.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Alexandria Doyle
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 6:41 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Adding color to silk

On Tue, Apr 1, 2008 at 8:09 AM, Dianne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>  I can't imagine that watercolors or oils would work well at all.
>
>  I would either use acrylic, heavily thinned with a textile medium, or 
> bite  the bullet and buy silk paints from Dharma.
>
>  Dianne
>


Thanks to all that have commented.  I just have a question, for those that
reccomended acrylic paints, do you use oil paints at all?

One of my thoughts here, is that we have some evidence that fabrics were
painted on for clothing prior to 1600, if only for children's or special
occasion clothing that wasn't worn more than once or twice.
There is the painting of Elizabeth from Bess of Hardwick Hall fame that
looks to be painted fabric - though whether that was a real dress is not
certain either.  Anyway, it would seem like the oil paint would have been
what was used to permanently mark fabric.  I have only just begun working
with oil paints myself, so I don't know how they handle in this case,
whereas I have used acrylics on fabric.  I had found that if the paint is
thinned it doesn't crack or flaked, but the chance it will soak to areas you
don't want, can be problematic.

I suspect that I will be marking out the outfit I am making on my fabric,
and then I'll test painting techniques on the scraps.

Purchasing additional/specialty paints and dyes at this point is cost
prohibitive when I do have  these other paints in house and I'm sitting at
home right now waiting for the plumber to show.

thanks
alex


--
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you know,
having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood, injury,
mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's Friday..." ;)
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Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost]Making history hip

[Sharon Collier]

There's an island off the Carolina coast, which, until they got a bridge and
satellite TV, had an almost perfect version of a 16th century eastern
English accent, which has died out/changed in England.
My mom is frequently asked if she is from New York, but she is a native San
Franciscan. The accent is similar, apparently. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Abel, Cynthia
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 7:59 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost]Making history hip

Sometimes it is difficult to pick up accents and how people will react.
My Dad was born and raised in New York State. The accent there is quite
different than the Bronx, for example. Twenty years in the Air Force and
thirty years in Nebraska "erased" his NYS accent--he and two of his sisters
sounded quite different to me as a teenager from my two aunts that remained
in their home state. Eighteen years in northern Arkansas, gave he and my Mom
a bit of Arkansas/southern Missouri "twang", but not much.  Mom was raised
in western Iowa, but she and I pronounced drama and wash differently. I say
dra-ma and wash; she said warsh and draama.
Both are correct for each state, but we argued a lot about it. When I went
to school in Minneapolis, MN, I was teased for a Nebraska accent.

What is interesting is that language experts are making a lot of discoveries
of simularities between some area accents in Britain and some American
accents, usually in rural areas.

Cindy Abel
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rickard, Patty
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 9:10 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost]Making history hip

Or from Pittsburgh, y'uns.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Candace Perry
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 9:27 AM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost]Making history hip

Well, if someone is PA Dutch or from Western PA or from South Philadelphia,
you should be able to tell, youse guys!
KY and TN sound very different from TX.
Candace Perry
Bally, PA

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On
Behalf Of Dianne
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 9:07 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost]Making history hip

 Trust an American not to know the difference between Yorkshire and Cockney
accents! I believe Bernard Cornwell originally created Sharpe as a Londoner,

but Sean Bean comes from Sheffield.>>

Can you tell the difference between a Michigan accent and a Pennsylvania

accent?

How about Kentucky and Texas?

Dianne

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Re: [h-cost] H-costumers at CostumeCon

[Sharon Collier]

Hi, Cin, I'm going. What's this about scarlet letters?
Sharon Collier 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 4:17 PM
To: h-cost
Subject: [h-cost] H-costumers at CostumeCon

As probably the closest one to the Con (it's 2miles from my house) I thought
I'd start the discussion. Who's going? Should we meet for tea & photo ops?
Shall we wear our Scarlet Letters?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] Making history hip (OT)

[Sharon Collier]

A new Ren court dress for dancing. I have the earrings I'm basing the dress
on. Now all I have to do is find the fabrics, trim, beads, make a corset and
hoops, get shoes, figure out a hat and make the thing! I already have a
bumroll, so that makes the job so much easier. :-)
Sharon
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 11:24 AM
To: h-cost
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making history hip (OT)

Tangier Is has an airport & has had one for 40+ years.  I've flown in
there.   Small planes, mind you.  It's also accessible by anyone with
a motorboat. You didnt need a satellite TV to pick up "foreign" or
"polluting" accents.  There was radio available and broadcast TV, too.
None of these places are so isolated as these stories like to pretend.
When I was a kid, we used to spend the morning fishing in the Chesapeake,
then go to the Tangier inn & restaurant and get the world's best grits &
gravy. They do have a distinctive accent, often attributed to massive
inbreeding. That was probably just our Accomac county snobbery talking.

I remember reading a Thomas Hardy novel, maybe Jude the Obscure, and
thinking that the provincial Sussex accent mocked by another character
sounded remarkably like someone from Rappahannock VA.

Can we get back to our regularly scheduled topic?  Here's a question for
you:  If you had sufficient resources to make your dream costume, what would
it be?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

> Most versions I have heard of this refer to Tangiers Island, which is 
> off
of Virginia not the Carolinas, I have heard references to the Carolinas and
even the Ozarks!  Tangiers is still accessible only by ferry.  Of course
none of the various places in America I have heard touted as having a
surviving 16th century accent were in fact settled in that period!

> Ron Carnegie
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Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 119

[Sharon Collier]

Kate, you're probably right. I was only 14 at the time and we switched to
acrylics the next year. I just remember calling it "casein".The first paint
was a powder which we mixed with hot water, and added pigment. 
The second, when I was in college, "hoof and horn", was a coarser powder,
more sand like in consistency. We mixed this with water also, but it needed
to be heated. Then pigment was added. I always thought they were 2 versions
of the same stuff.
 Either way, they can be used on fabric without "bleed" from the oil in oil
paint.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Kate M Bunting
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 1:09 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 119

Sharon Collier wrote:

>. Before 
>acrylics, we used to make our own paint, using hoof-and-horn glue. We
called it casein paint.
>You mixed the ground up stuff (hooves and horns, apparently) up with 
>water, heated it and mixed in dry pigment. Perhaps this is what they 
>used in olden times for fabric.
>You can still get that kind of glue-it's called "mucilage" or possibly 
>"hide" glue, the brown stuff that used to come in a glass bottle with 
>an angled rubber top. .
>Another name for this might be "milk paint". This is sometimes found on 
>old furniture. Apparently it's a pain to remove from furniture if 
>you're refinishing. I've never come across it myself, but I think it's 
>a version of this type of casein-based paint.

Are you sure you're not talking about two different things, Sharon? My
understanding is that casein is a substance found in milk and cheese, but
the substance extracted from hooves and horns is gelatin.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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Re: [h-cost] PreDrycleaning - charge?

[Sharon Collier]

Wash the silk, you can always dry clean it later. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 3:19 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] PreDrycleaning - charge?

Hi, I am about to get some chenille/tapestry like fabric drycleaned before I
cut it out.  
They want $25 apiece to clean each piece.  I have two 50"X4.5 yards of the
tapestry and 45"X4Yard of the silk lining. 
 
That's $75 Just to pre-treat it! Cripes!  What would you do?
 
Sg
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Re: [h-cost] OT Re: Regional accents, was Making history hip

[Sharon Collier]

Someone recently told me that it was a sign of refinement/education to be be
to spell a word in different ways. Anyone ever hear of this? 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 2:17 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT Re: Regional accents, was Making history hip

 
In a message dated 4/4/2008 3:09:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

We also  read some
passages ourselves reprinted from the oldest surviving source  aloud after
being told to start by pronouncing the words as they were  spelled.



*
 
 
Lord! I had a book of early Tudor plays [like "Roister Doister"] printed
with their original spellings. They'd spell "if" 3 different ways in the
same speech! "if" "iff"  "iffe" .



**Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides.

 
(http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv000316)
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Re: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS

[Sharon Collier]

This is why I feel regular production meetings are so important. At the
first meeting, all the designers and the director get together and discuss
the direction of the show re: design, style, etc. As soon as the show is
cast, meet again and make any changes (if the leads won't look good in the
original ideas, change them ASAP) Then meet every week until tech week. It
keeps the director and producer from getting any surprises and you can let
folks know if their expectations aren't going to be met because of
budget/time/lack of help, etc. 
As to professional standards, if the director/producer changes my ideas so
radically that I would be embarrassed to have my name on them, I do the job
as asked (I'm assuming you're getting paid), but ask that I not be listed in
the program as the designer, after all, if your designs have been altered,
they aren't a good reflection of your abilities.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of AVCHASE
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 7:46 PM
To: h-costume posts
Subject: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS

Hi, All. The most recent show on which I  worked opened last last Thursday.
And over all its a good show. But some of the fallout has been very
upsetting to me.
The director invited me to do this show for her, her last show (she's said
that for for the last three years), and I've done them. Each time some cast
members have been down right vicious. This time was the worst.
It occurred to me we expected different things as/from a designer. I'd just
assumed they all understood that I only did these shows to practice my
craft, keep my abilities in shape, and explore my ideas. Maybe her agenda
was different?
So I sent an email and asked what she had expected when she engaged a
designer. She wrote back to me a very complimentary (damned by praise-forget
faint) note about my design capabilities; but-said I was overbearing, didn't
listen to the actress's ideas and was not willing to take suggestions form
the actresses. The ideas and suggestions were put forth a few days before
dress and production had gotten me no help for a small musical with 48
changes in it. Some very small; most changes are full costume though. I
found I was being difficult when I said there just wasn't time.
The worst part is that the changes weakened the visual dramatic impact but
were more conventional.
Now I want to write a little paper setting forth designer's professional
standards. It isn't that I don't know what most are but I don't know if they
are enumerated anywhere. Are they? Please help, both scholars and
practitioners. Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas


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Re: [h-cost] Fake Blood--getting out of costumes?

[Sharon Collier]

Just get rid of the director. It's easier. :-) 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Kate Pinner
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 11:22 AM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: [h-cost] Fake Blood--getting out of costumes?

 
This may have been discussed before, but I don't remember. What formulas do
you use for blood and If the director wants it smeared on a costume (on
stage), how do you get it off -- especially wool and or velvet?

Kate


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Re: [h-cost] book lust

[Sharon Collier]

I got one used from Amazon Canada for under $100, if I remember correctly. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Julie
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 1:57 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] book lust 

I ran into a copy of Moda de Firenze (the Italian Renaissance costuming
book) at a Ren Faire this weekend.  I was all set to add it to my collection
but was shocked at the price.  The last time I looked it was going for about
$80 U.S.  Yesterday it was priced at $148.

Has this book really gone up that much in a year or two?  Is there another
less costly vendor?

BTW, on a simiilar note, how much is Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
going for now?

Thanks
Julie in San Diego
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Re: [h-cost] Blood in costumes

[Sharon Collier]

Aniline dye. Less messy and appropriate, wouldn't you think? 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 5:14 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Blood in costumes

Sharon Collier wrote:
> Just get rid of the director. It's easier. :-)
>
>? 
Only if you have friends to help you hide the body. :)


Dawn

And a product to help you get the blood out of your clothes.


Cheryl Odom
College of Santa Fe

BTW, If you can't convince your director you mean business, you might want
to try Reel Blood which is easier to remove than any other blood product
I've tried.
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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

[Sharon Collier]

About how many costume/fashion related books or magazines do you own? 
About 30-35 (but 2 of those are Moda a Firenze and QEWU (bought from
Amazon/Canada for $192, which included shipping)

What was the first one you purchased? 
Historic Costume for the Stage 1974
 
Where did you purchase it? 
Humboldt State University for a costume class

What was your most recent purchase?
QEWU

What do you think was the best deal that you have every made when purchasing
a publication?
A friend found the 3 Janet Arnold books at a garage sale and bought them for
under $20, then gave them to me

About how many period photographs do you own just for the costuming?
Loads, because my family took lots of photos, then threw them in a box. If
anyone wants copies (some very nice turn of the century ones, I will scan
and email to you

What book or magazine is your most treasured...if your house was on fire,
you would take it with you.
Besides pics of my kids, nothing.

What is the worse costume book that you own?  I know Robin has a collection!
Let There Be Clothes

Do you have a room devoted to your collection?
no

When did you start collecting?
When I had some money

Do you consider your collection for business or pleasure?
pleasure

Optional questions:

How many sewing machines do you own?
One  
What types and age?
Husquevarna/Viking new this year, finally had to bite the bullet and get new
machine when old one (Elna) wouldn't work unless you picked it up and shook
it really hard

How many sewing patterns do you own? 
Tons, my friend, who was a costumer, gave me all she had after she decided
not to do shows anymore
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 9:03 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

This could be really fun to poll the list.  Lurkers come out, wherever you
are!

About how many costume/fashion related books or magazines do you own?

What was the first one you purchased?  Where did you purchase it?

What was your most recent purchase?

What do you think was the best deal that you have every made when purchasing
a publication?

About how many period photographs do you own just for the costuming?

What book or magazine is your most treasured...if your house was on fire,
you would take it with you.

What is the worse costume book that you own?  I know Robin has a collection!

Do you have a room devoted to your collection?

When did you start collecting?

Do you consider your collection for business or pleasure?

Optional questions:

How many sewing machines do you own?  What types and age?

How many sewing patterns do you own? 

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com 

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Re: [h-cost] FROCK COAT PATTERNS

[Sharon Collier]

At Costume Con this last weekend, we were talking and someone said the
pattern from Laughing Moon Patterns was good. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of AVCHASE
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 8:18 PM
To: h-costume posts
Subject: [h-cost] FROCK COAT PATTERNS

Hi, All.

Where or from whom do I get the best buy for the money of multi-sized frock
coat patterns? If you remember, I'm a small stage costume designer and wish
to make five frock coats for our closet, sizes XS-XL. We don't have much
money, ever! and I don't want to draft these myself as I don't have newer
standard sizes for men.

Also a tip on the suppliers of light weight hard finish wool blends would be
appreciated.

Thank you for your suggestions, Audy.

in the high boonies of Central Texas


PeoplePC Online
A better way to Internet
http://www.peoplepc.com
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Re: [h-cost] Cartridge Pleating

[Sharon Collier]

One tip is to line the top of the fabric to be pleated with evenly checked
gingham. The regular spacing of the checks makes it easy to make even pleats
and the gingham finishes the top edge. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 8:45 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Cartridge Pleating

I'm planning a class on Cartridge Pleating for next week.  My time  frame is

16C and I'm trying to keep it fairly basic.   Any  advice?  
 
Thanks,
Catherine  
 
 
 



**Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.  
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod000301)
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Re: [h-cost] Menstruation in Middle Ages

[Sharon Collier]

I've heard that even today, in countries where women work hard and/or have
poor nutrition, menopause sets in much earlier, around the 30's. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 5:01 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Menstruation in Middle Ages

Hi, 

I'm sorry if this has been discussed before - I've glanced through the
archives and didn't find much - please point me to an earlier discussion if
so. 

But my question is, is there any evidence and info on how did the medieval
women deal with menstruation? Did they use special clothes (could they use
something like pants???)? 

I've also heard that menstruation in the earlier times was much different
from today and the menstruation could not have been such a big deal after
all (not to talk about the fact that women were very often pregnant)

I'm also interested in later periods - up to the 18th century - I think the
way of dealing with it would have been similar to how it was done in the
middle ages...but I really don't know much about this topic, that's why I
rather post here and ask:-)

Thanks,

Zuzana
 
   
-
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it
now.
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Re: [h-cost] Clothing from 1890 - 1910, eastern U.S.

[Sharon Collier]

"The Music Man", the movie with Shirley Jones, has some nice early 1900's
stuff I think about the end of the time you're looking at, about 1908-1910,
especially showing the difference between girls dresses, which were mid calf
and women's, which were long. Boys/men's clothes, too, (plus, it's a cool
movie).Of course, the big change came about during/after the first world
war.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Cozit / Liz
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 8:16 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Clothing from 1890 - 1910, eastern U.S.

OK, I admit it - I know a fairly bare minimum about this period.  
Generic Victorian upper and lower, and "generic" Edwardian upper/lower both
highly corsetted and moving towards flapper wear.

But - I've been asked to teach my 4th graders part of their social studies
unit for the quarter (I teach Library Media - not social studies), and while
history is enough of a interest for me to be able to cover what I *need* to,
I realized  that clothing had been left out of the unit... and since I'm
changing the unit a bit anyway...  well, my thought was that the clothing
changes between 1890 and 1910 show a heck of a lot about how people both
worked and played *and* how many beliefs were rapidly changing... so I'd
*love* to include a few pictures that I could show in a PowerPoint, fading
from one to another.  I've got the same set up for a few pictures (yes,
don't worry, well within the "Fair Use" range of copyright rules) of
Baltimore from "now" back to "then"... 
and vice versa... but I have nothing with *people*, beyond one shepherd in
Druid Hill Park... and he's not really all that distinctive, y'know?

Anyone able to point me to just a few pictures I can use?  I'm hoping for
male and female, child and adult... from those three general clothing
types... well, four really, if I consider general lower working class in
there as well.

Sigh... this is what I get for coming up with "intersesting" ideas at the
last moment, I guess...

-Liz   (gotta hit a library again tomorrow... and just my luck, my 
preferred one is across the street from a very crowded Wine Festival... 
which means little to no parking available...)

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Re: [h-cost] Low Rise Issue

[Sharon Collier]

I have some pants/shorts that I have streamlined to the easiest pattern
ever. Two pieces, two seams, two hems (machine of course) and one casing for
the elastic. They sit at my waist and I make them in lovely wild cotton
prints (it's either that or tablecloths).
Sharon 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 9:18 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Low Rise Issue

I thought about it, but I really don't want to spend my sewing time on that
if I don't have too.  I used to be the person who said: "Oh, I can make that
- don't need to buy it."  Then one of my costume buddies, straightened me
out!  She said always buy what you can and make what you can't - it was a
whole new perspective for me!
Sg
 



> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Low Rise Issue> >
Has anyone suggested just making a pair?
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Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

[Sharon Collier]

If not, I have a bunch that my friend gave me (her mom was a seamstress)
plus a bunch of adapted ones that my other friend gave me after she decided
to stop doing theatre. I'm in CA, 30 mi. south of SF. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dianne
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 6:46 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

Are they still available?

Dianne
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Re: [h-cost] Doublet versus Court Gown

[Sharon Collier]

Really easy is a loose gown. More like a sleeveless robe. Worn over a
chemise, of course, but that can be a white/cream shirt with  the collar cut
off so just the collar band is on. Tie on the gorgeous sleeves you've made
to the armholes in 3 places, leaving the underarm loose. Later, you can make
a matching underskirt.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Aylwen Garden
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 4:15 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Doublet versus Court Gown

Dear All
My daughter needs a new Elizabethan gown for our Shakespeare Ball in
mid-July. I have made the 'most scrumptious' sleeves but with other
commitments don't think I have enough time to make a full court gown at this
stage and should think about a doublet. When web browsing last night I
looked at doublets and didn't see any that had sleeves, they were mostly
sleeveless worn over a linen shirt. I'd hate to leave off these sleeves, so
am asking here if anyone has seen highly ornate sleeves worn with doublets
anywhere. The sleeves are 3-paned purple velvet with couched gold cord,
white trim and gold beads.
Also on this topic, she does not like the idea of the doublet done up at the
neck, and she cannot wear a ruff as she is a musician on the night playing
violin. Do you think it ok to leave open?
Many thanks,
Aylwen
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Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts

[Sharon Collier]

It could have been that the hoop stiffener was not rigid, like whalebone,
but rope or cord, which is what early hoops were made of.  They would fold
like that when sitting. Somewhere on a site I just recently saw (which I do
not remember) is a picture of a woman wearing rope hoops that fold just like
the one shown in the painting.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ann Catelli
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 6:36 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts

I was interpreting her as wearing trousers, actually, though the size of the
webbed picture makes any firm conclusions on her outfit premature.

Ann in CT

--- On Thu, 6/12/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> > 
> > http://www.oronoz.com/leefoto.php?referencia=15099
> 
> 
> **
>  
>  
> Did y'all notice the servant in the left corner with the horizontal 
> lines on her skirt, but no hoops?



  
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Re: [h-cost] What to do.

[Sharon Collier]

Make oversleeves, if it's translucent enough. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 7:53 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] What to do.

I have 1yd x 44" white silk gauze. What pre 1600s item can I make of it
other than a partlet?
I have 2yds x 44" cream silk netting. A portion of it will be for a partlet
to go with a cream pre- 1600s gown. What would you make with 2 yds of silk
netting?

De


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Re: [h-cost] What to do.

[Sharon Collier]

Can you make a gauze ruff?
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 7:53 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] What to do.

I have 1yd x 44" white silk gauze. What pre 1600s item can I make of it
other than a partlet?
I have 2yds x 44" cream silk netting. A portion of it will be for a partlet
to go with a cream pre- 1600s gown. What would you make with 2 yds of silk
netting?

De


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Re: [h-cost] What to do.

[Sharon Collier]

 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 7:53 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] What to do.

I have 1yd x 44" white silk gauze. What pre 1600s item can I make of it
other than a partlet?
I have 2yds x 44" cream silk netting. A portion of it will be for a partlet
to go with a cream pre- 1600s gown. What would you make with 2 yds of silk
netting?

De


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Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

[Sharon Collier]

Are you still interested in old patterns?
Sharon Collier 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dianne
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 6:46 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

Are they still available?

Dianne
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Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

[Sharon Collier]

What kind are you looking for?
Sharon 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Robert Powell
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 6:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

I am still interested also

Chiara Francesca <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  I for one am. Been
doing pattern grading research so any left over's would be greatly
appreciated after you all are done using them. :)

♫
Chiara Francesca

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 6:31 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

Are you still interested in old patterns?
Sharon Collier 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dianne
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 6:46 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home

Are they still available?

Dianne
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Re: [h-cost] Shoes

[Sharon Collier]

Amazon Drygoods is in Iowa. (563) 322-6800. Don't know if they have anything
that might work.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of REBECCA BURCH
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 1:20 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Shoes

Does anybody have a source in the Chicago area for character shoes that
Ansel might be able to purchase without a long wait?

He will be a new character this year and therefore will not be able to wear
the sea captain boots his has been wearing for the past couple of years.
This year he has a part in one of the stage shows - he will play a baker -
and he is working up a new street character, where he is a bee keeper. 

He waited far too late to think about this. Bristol opens in two weeks, so
if we need to order we need to order soon!!! 

Any suggestions will be gratefully appreciated.

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds
and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Re: [h-cost] Shoes

[Sharon Collier]

Or Jas.Townsend & Son, Inc., Ft. Wayne, Indiana. They have a store, too, as
well as online.
www.jas-townsend.com

Or can he buy from one of the Faire vendors?

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of REBECCA BURCH
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 1:20 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Shoes

Does anybody have a source in the Chicago area for character shoes that
Ansel might be able to purchase without a long wait?

He will be a new character this year and therefore will not be able to wear
the sea captain boots his has been wearing for the past couple of years.
This year he has a part in one of the stage shows - he will play a baker -
and he is working up a new street character, where he is a bee keeper. 

He waited far too late to think about this. Bristol opens in two weeks, so
if we need to order we need to order soon!!! 

Any suggestions will be gratefully appreciated.

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds
and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Re: [h-cost] More help with Spanish gown

[Sharon Collier]

Maybe the skirts are flat in front, under the pointed bodice, then pleated
at side and back. It just doesn't show much in the portrait, but there is
fullness you can see at the side bottom of the skirt. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 9:06 AM
To: SCA Garb; Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] More help with Spanish gown

Good afternoon!

Yes, it's me again!

I still want to make this:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/87/Anna_de_Austria1.jpg

I found a pattern in Acega (the very last one, on the folded sheet, if you
have it).

My problem: every painting of the Spanish style of the time shows unpleated
skirts, at least in front. Alcega's pattern produces a skirt that would have
to be pleated (the front panels alone are 28 cm each at the waist, as
indicated on the pattern, and the back panels are even wider).

What would you do? Follow Alcega, or follow the portraits of the period?

Heeelllppp! 

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Re: [h-cost] FLDS clothing for sale

[Sharon Collier]

Looking at their site, I was surprised to see so much of their clothing is
polyester or a polyester blend. In the southwest, it gets really hot and
polyester just doesn't breathe. I think they would have better luck with
their business if they used 100% cotton. Putting those kids in poly in the
summer might count as child abuse! (just kidding)

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 7:08 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] FLDS clothing for sale

An interesting clothing outcome of the Texas FLDS issue:

http://www.azcentral.com/news/articles/2008/07/02/20080702FLDSDress.html

http://fldsdress.com/

I was surprised to find others who were interested by the hairstyles and
women's clothing.  While I wouldn't want to be forced to wear them, I do
like them.

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] crepines?

[Sharon Collier]

I looked up the word in both my French  and Italian dictionaries. Both
"crepiter" (French) and "crepitare" (Italian), mean "to rustle", so could it
be a petticoat that makes a rustling noise, like taffeta?

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 6:45 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] crepines?

A friend found a box in an archive, containing letters and bills. One of the
bills was for a young girl in 1748, she had boaght caps, stockings, gloves,
piano lessons and linnens for embroidery. There was also a pannier with
matching "crepiner" in danish. Is there a similar word in french, german for
crepines? Could it be skirts, to cover the panniers with? Rolls?
I have never seen this word before, and wondered if any have heard anything
similar. I know it is difficult because its danish, but crepins dont sound
danish to me att all...

Thanks

Bjarne
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Re: [h-cost] play costume 1888

[Sharon Collier]

Where do you live? And what size is your daughter?
Sharon 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of zelda crusher
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 11:25 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] play costume 1888


Hi all,
 
My 15 year old is in summer school for a production of "Jekyll & Hyde: The
Musical" (which concept, btw, makes my skin crawl).  The performance dates
are Aug. 2 &3.  Surprise, surprise, parents are responsible for providing
the costumes, but the only guidelines are very skimpy.  For example, low
class "street women" are to wear button-up shirts, long full skirts, long
sweaters, hats, vests and fingerless gloves in tan, brown, grey and black.
"Upper class" women can wear dark primary colors and the only thing
different on the list is that their gloves are not fingerless!  
 
With this description we were supposed to *deliver* costumes last Thursday
(after 5 days notice) for approval.  The only thing we were able to come up
with at second hand stores was a straw(ish) hat with flowers that looked,
from a distance, sorta like a bonnet (I argued that a poor person was more
likely to wear something old fashioned).  This item did not get approved.
Oh, and did I mention that the person in charge of costumes is one of the
(high school) students?  Sigh.
 
This is absolutely not my period, and my mind skims along with notions of
Civil War and gay nineties images with a hint of "My Fair Lady" and Dickens
butting in every so often.
 
At any rate, my questions are these;
 
Is it acceptable to make something fairly period looking if the rest of the
cast is wearing ankle length gauze skirts from the 1960's and the "costumer"
seems to be offering nothing more than veto?
 
Are there any Commercial (read: likely to be had for $1.99 at Jo Ann's)
patterns available that can be made by a 15 year old in 2 weeks with only
advice and fitting help from Mom?  If not, are there some "iconic" images
that we can use to alter some existing pattern?
 
Are my daughter and I crazy to be offering to make these costumes (yes, she
needs 3) without far more detailed expectaions up front?
 
Thanks in advance for any help.
Laurie
 
 
 
 
 
 
_
Use video conversation to talk face-to-face with Windows Live Messenger.
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/connect_your_way.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL
_Refresh_messenger_video_072008
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Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing, was FLDS clothing

[Sharon Collier]

So could the Amish conceivably use solar, since it doesn't connect to
anywhere? Then they could use electric sewing machines (see, I got costume
content in there--:-)  )
Sharon C. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 12:51 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing, was FLDS clothing

Kate M Bunting wrote:
> Curious... I thought the Amish eschewed modern technology, so I would have
expected them to stick to natural fibres.
>   

The Amish value hard work and a simple lifestyle and shun worldliness in
favor of close community support. This means that in many cases they do not
adopt modern technology just to make their life easier or more comfortable
or more entertaining. For example, they favor walking or horse drawn buggies
for transportation over the automobile. However they will use things like
refrigerators in cases of medical need, where medicine must be stored. There
may be a telephone on a pole at an inconvenient distance from the house, for
emergency use. Electricity is not used because it creates a connection to
the outside world, and a dependence on something outside their church and
community. For the most part technology and modern equipment is not avoided
simply because it is modern, but because the community places more value on
simplicity and self sacrifice, self sufficiency and piety than on the
comforts of the modern world, and they believe that ownership of material
goods like cars or tvs leads to inequalities within the community, and
causes vanity and prideful behavior.  They accept technology only when it
fills a decided need.


As for clothing, anyone who's been shopping lately knows that ready-to-wear
is rife with polyester and other synthetic fabrics and that good natural
cotton and linen and wool fabrics can be hard to come by.  I suspect that a
lot of poly and poly blends get used because of the ready availability, the
slightly lower cost, and the simplicity and modesty of the fabric itself.
They're not hung up on "natural" or "organic" or "comfort", the cloth serves
to cover the body. To make a special effort to only import natural cotton or
linen for clothing would probably be seen as non-conformist, prideful, or
self-centered activity and frowned upon. 

Having lived in all parts of Texas (south, central, and north) I know from
experience that natural fiber fabric is hard to come by down there, too. I
had problems with one shop that was selling fabric (imported from
china) that was labeled as 100% cotton, yet which failed burn tests
repeatedly. I told the store manger about it, we even did a burn test
together in the store, but they still continued to carry it as (mis)
labeled. So my guess is the FLDS ladies probably don't have a lot of choice
about what they sew with either.



Dawn

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[h-cost] no emails from h-costume

[Sharon Collier]

Hi, I am no longer receiving emails. Can you put me on the list again,
please? I probably hit the wrong button on the computer. (again)
Thank you, Sharon C.
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Re: [h-cost] no emails from h-costume

[Sharon Collier]

Thanks, I'm not sure what I did, but I'm receiving again. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 11:55 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] no emails from h-costume


Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com

- Original Message -----
From: "Sharon Collier" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 2:44 AM
Subject: [h-cost] no emails from h-costume


> Hi, I am no longer receiving emails. Can you put me on the list again,
> please? I probably hit the wrong button on the computer. (again)
> Thank you, Sharon C.
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Re: [h-cost] Ancient Egyptian beaded dress

[Sharon Collier]

For a stage costume, use drinking straws, cut into pieces. They would thread
quickly onto string, (put two strings through a straw piece, then split the
strings and put through another straw piece with strings on either side, if
that makes sense) and you could put pre-made beaded fringe on the bottom for
"movement". 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 9:56 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Ancient Egyptian beaded dress

Speaking of such, has anyone ever come across any fabric that might work for
a stage costume of this?


Sylvia Rognstad
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com
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Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood

[Sharon Collier]

Belt part---
Do you mean girdle? Long necklace-like belt that goes around waist and hangs
down center front? 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Kate M Bunting
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 1:19 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood



Becky Rautine wrote:


>Sorry, the second S is on her large necklace like a baron would wear or an
>official ensignia. Are there many portraits where the person wears 2
>necklaces? I thought they wore a necklace and the belt-like part (I can't
>think of what it's called right now.

Isn't this the IHS monogram which we discussed a couple of months ago? It
was stated that this symbol (representing the name of Jesus) was worn in
Protestant countries at this time because a crucifix was considered too
Catholic.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian,
University of Derby
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Re: [h-cost] Itlalian Renaissance hat

[Sharon Collier]

When I was in high school, we did "Kiss Me, Kate". My friend's aunts did the
costumes and copied the "Shrew" costumes for the leads. They were GORGEOUS.
I believe they made the headdress of wire, covered with masking tape or
fabric tape (for bulk), then painted. Or you could make it out of wicker,
hot melt glued together, then painted (the easy way).

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 12:54 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Itlalian Renaissance hat

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0061407/mediaindex
http://peppermintkisskiss.com/images/tfaustus.jpg
some pictures.

Perhaps the chemise/camicia could have a blend of black, maroon and gold
embrodery.

De

-Original Message-
Thank you. I recently saw The Taming of the Shrew and wondered about her
head dresses and hair arrangements. I thought they were beautiful so I
paused the film over and over to sketch the wedding dress, hair and all,
then the complete set she wore at her sister's wedding. That wire thingy
must have taken a lot of time to weave in and out and around in those
angles. I'd love one like that. It's crown like but still a head garment.
For my purposes, it doesn't matter if its authentic period. I think I'll
make one to go with a gown I'm creating. Don't know all the stages yet but
going to be maroon and gold, light ivory and black designs on the front.
Maybe a blackwork chemise with blooming sleeves to show off the blackwork. I
love embroidry so it may have lots of hidden little things only I'll know
about. If I get to the sketch stage with final decisions, I'll post
it.Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine>


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Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?

[Sharon Collier]

Moda has color pictures, QEU are black and white, if that makes a
difference. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 6:08 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?

Hi,

I am planning to spend some money and I have a real dilemma. I am hesitating
between Moda a Firenze and Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe unlocked. I've heard
very good reference on both. I do not have any special area of interest, so
Florence or England are both interesting to me, but I would welcome a
detailed study with lots of large, quality photographs and also some tips on
reconstruction (patterns or details - fastenings etc.)

If you could boy only one, which one would you choose?

Thanks,

Zuzana
___
Sartor...custom-made costumes
www.sartor.cz 





  
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Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine

[Sharon Collier]

Can you wash this or must it be dry cleaned? And if you can wash, how?
Sharon C. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Joan Jurancich
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 9:35 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine

For those of you who want to use a firmly woven wool for your outfit, I
recommend gabardine.  Here's the direct link to the sale page: 
http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-wool-fabric-wool-gabardine-fabr
ic.aspx?cm_mmc=Email-_-8/04/08%20Deal%20of%20the%20Day-_-Deal%20of%20the%20d
ay-_-Thursday


>Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 00:01:35 -0400 (EDT)
>From: "Fabric.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine
>
>This message was sent to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>[]
>
>
>Fabric.com Deal of the Day
>
>
>[]
>
>
>40% Off Wool Gabardine
>
>Thursday 08/07/08
>
>Special pricing now through midnight Eastern Time
>
>Sale Price:
>[]
>5.99 yd
>
>-
>
>Regular:
>[]
>9.98 yd
>
>Compare at:
>[]
>14.99 yd
>
>Wool gabardine is a wonderfully resilient, tightly woven fabric. 
>Gabardine is considered an easy care fabric because of its strength 
>and resistance to wrinkling. This natural fiber can be worn 
>throughout the year. Wool gabardine is perfect for skirts, pants and 
>jackets. 100% wool, 56'' wide
>
>Shop Now
>

Joan Jurancich
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine

[Sharon Collier]

Thanks! 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Joan Jurancich
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 2:43 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine

At 02:20 PM 8/7/2008, you wrote:
>Can you wash this or must it be dry cleaned? And if you can wash, how?
>Sharon C.
>
>-Original Message-
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>On Behalf Of Joan Jurancich
>Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 9:35 PM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine
>
>For those of you who want to use a firmly woven wool for your outfit, I 
>recommend gabardine.  Here's the direct link to the sale page:
>http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-wool-fabric-wool-gabardine
>-fabr 
>ic.aspx?cm_mmc=Email-_-8/04/08%20Deal%20of%20the%20Day-_-Deal%20of%20th
>e%20d
>ay-_-Thursday

Personally, I'd wash it with Synthrapol in warm water (then dry it in the
dryer on delicate) before cutting.  That way you can get rid of any excess
dye so that you won't have any problems with colors running and any
shrinkage will be taken care of.


Joan Jurancich
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 

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Re: [h-cost] Question regarding career path

[Sharon Collier]

Put together a resume, with pictures, if possible, of your work. Pictures
are worth 1,00 words. One of the best costumers I've known was self taught.
I'm a stay at home mom who has done community theatre for the past 25 years
or so. While interesting and fun, it has not paid well, stipends usually
being in the "money for gas" range instead of the "making a good living"
range. You may be able to find a job at a community college or university
working in their costume or sewing departments. Again, I'm not sure about
pay range, but probably around minimum wage. You could start your own
seamstress business or maybe a costume sewing/rental business, but those
might be seasonal. You could sew wedding/bridesmaids dresses. That can be
very lucrative. I don't know if you're familiar with the TV show "Ace of
Cakes", but for those fancy custom cakes shown on the show, they START at
$1,000 and go up from there (according to their website.) Dresses take a lot
more time/effort, so that may be one avenue for you to explore.
I will add that you should remember to watch out for yourself during all
this. Medical insurance is a good thing to have. My friend got full medical,
dental and vision insurance for herself and her kids when she was working
half time at Starbucks! So, something else to consider.
All the best to you,
Sharon C.


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Joan Broneske
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 11:48 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Question regarding career path

I'm not sure where to start with this, but I figured you kind people on this
list may be able to point me in the right direction.

Without getting into too much detail about the circumstances surrounding my
personal life at the moment, I find myself in a situation where at age 44
and after being a stay-at-home mother and homemaker for 14 years, I may need
to "start my life over".  My great love over the years has always been
costuming, making things, building things, helping with events, putting on
elaborate Halloween displays in my garage, helping with school plays and
things of that nature. I have never been paid for any of it, and it has
always just been a "hobby", never anything professional.  I have no college
education in anything (other than a few college courses over the years in
various general things like English, Logic and Anthropology) and no real
work experience other than a few stints as a clerical worker, medical typist
and retail clerk.

I am seriously thinking of pursuing some type of career where I can use
these strengths that I have, because I know that I have them. What I could
really use some direction and assistance on is:

A)  Am I too old to pursue this?
B)  What kinds of things could I do with these talents?
C)  Would I be able to pursue something which I could make a comfortable
living at? (other than an $8 an hour receptionist)
D)  What types of schooling should I be looking into? 
E)  Would it help me to create a sort of "portfolio" of the hobby things
I have done over the years with pictures, etc.?

I appreciate any insight, assistance, suggestions..

I currently live near Sacramento, California, but there is a chance I may
end up near Utica, NY or near Winston-Salem, NC.

Thank you all for your time.

Joan B


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Re: [h-cost] Question regarding career path

[Sharon Collier]

Oooh! Another idea! You sound like you might make a good wedding planner.  

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Joan Broneske
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 11:48 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Question regarding career path

I'm not sure where to start with this, but I figured you kind people on this
list may be able to point me in the right direction.

Without getting into too much detail about the circumstances surrounding my
personal life at the moment, I find myself in a situation where at age 44
and after being a stay-at-home mother and homemaker for 14 years, I may need
to "start my life over".  My great love over the years has always been
costuming, making things, building things, helping with events, putting on
elaborate Halloween displays in my garage, helping with school plays and
things of that nature. I have never been paid for any of it, and it has
always just been a "hobby", never anything professional.  I have no college
education in anything (other than a few college courses over the years in
various general things like English, Logic and Anthropology) and no real
work experience other than a few stints as a clerical worker, medical typist
and retail clerk.

I am seriously thinking of pursuing some type of career where I can use
these strengths that I have, because I know that I have them. What I could
really use some direction and assistance on is:

A)  Am I too old to pursue this?
B)  What kinds of things could I do with these talents?
C)  Would I be able to pursue something which I could make a comfortable
living at? (other than an $8 an hour receptionist)
D)  What types of schooling should I be looking into? 
E)  Would it help me to create a sort of "portfolio" of the hobby things
I have done over the years with pictures, etc.?

I appreciate any insight, assistance, suggestions..

I currently live near Sacramento, California, but there is a chance I may
end up near Utica, NY or near Winston-Salem, NC.

Thank you all for your time.

Joan B


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Re: [h-cost] "Mostra dei Costumi delle Armi e Degli Ornamenti del Palio"

[Sharon Collier]

Not "Celtic knotwork", I'd say instead "Italian strapwork" (but whether or
not it was period, I've no idea.) Was this for the Palio horserace, maybe?

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 11:34 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] "Mostra dei Costumi delle Armi e Degli Ornamenti del
Palio"

Does anyone have any information, background or technical, on this 1993
exhibit of costume held in Legnano, Italy?  
 
Looking at the pictures, I can not think that they were trying to recreate
extant or known-from-MSS garb as the sources for the designs are taken from
a variety of Byzantine, Anglo-Saxon, southern Italian (and did I actually
see some  Celtic knotwork?!) sources placed on a ground of basic Norman
garb.  I am knee-deep in research on this time and place, and nothing,
except Roger's mantle, of course, leaps out and says "I'm attempting to be
the real  thing."
 
_Odisseus /  Ulysses Gallery_
(http://ranaan.altervista.org/html/SCA-Gallery.htm)  
 
(The pictures on this page are taken, without attribution, from the
exhibition catalogue.)
 
I would very much like to know the purpose behind this exhibition as the
question comes up frequently enough about the use of these costumes as
documentation.
 
Nancy
 
 
Nancy  Spies
Arelate Studio
_www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_
(http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html)
Ingvild  Josefsdatter, OL
Kingdom of Atlantia

"If  by a 'Liberal' they mean someone who looks ahead and not behind,
someone who  welcomes new ideas without rigid reactions, someone who cares
about the welfare  of the people -- their health, their housing, their
schools, their jobs, their  civil rights, and their civil liberties --
someone who believes we can break  through the stalemate and suspicions that
grip us in our policies abroad, if  that is what they mean by a 'Liberal',
then I'm proud to say I'm a 'Liberal'." John F. Kennedy, 14 September 1960





**Pt...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, 
plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com.  
(http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty000514)
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Re: [h-cost] "Mostra dei Costumi delle Armi e Degli Ornamenti del Palio"

[Sharon Collier]

There is also a "Palio" horserace in Sienna, Italy. Done in early
renaissance style. It is held in the central town piazza.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 11:34 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] "Mostra dei Costumi delle Armi e Degli Ornamenti del
Palio"

Does anyone have any information, background or technical, on this 1993
exhibit of costume held in Legnano, Italy?  
 
Looking at the pictures, I can not think that they were trying to recreate
extant or known-from-MSS garb as the sources for the designs are taken from
a variety of Byzantine, Anglo-Saxon, southern Italian (and did I actually
see some  Celtic knotwork?!) sources placed on a ground of basic Norman
garb.  I am knee-deep in research on this time and place, and nothing,
except Roger's mantle, of course, leaps out and says "I'm attempting to be
the real  thing."
 
_Odisseus /  Ulysses Gallery_
(http://ranaan.altervista.org/html/SCA-Gallery.htm)  
 
(The pictures on this page are taken, without attribution, from the
exhibition catalogue.)
 
I would very much like to know the purpose behind this exhibition as the
question comes up frequently enough about the use of these costumes as
documentation.
 
Nancy
 
 
Nancy  Spies
Arelate Studio
_www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_
(http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html)
Ingvild  Josefsdatter, OL
Kingdom of Atlantia

"If  by a 'Liberal' they mean someone who looks ahead and not behind,
someone who  welcomes new ideas without rigid reactions, someone who cares
about the welfare  of the people -- their health, their housing, their
schools, their jobs, their  civil rights, and their civil liberties --
someone who believes we can break  through the stalemate and suspicions that
grip us in our policies abroad, if  that is what they mean by a 'Liberal',
then I'm proud to say I'm a 'Liberal'." John F. Kennedy, 14 September 1960





**Pt...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, 
plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com.  
(http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty000514)
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?

[Sharon Collier]

A straw fan on a ribbon around her neck (to keep it from the cat!)As for
what am I making--plans for the "Cutting Back of the Plants that have Taken
Over the Backyard". Coming dancing next week? (Lesley's busy this week)
Sharon

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 11:10 AM
To: h-cost
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?

It's that time of year: holiday parties, winter balls, theater season,
company dinners, Diskens Fair, New Years Eve, cocktail parties,12th Night.
You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale.  Whatever
the reason, h-costumers are probably making something.  So, what's your
dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on the
dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's on your
design sketchbook, worktable, at the sewing machine or in the embroidery
hoop.
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Re: [h-cost] what is your dressform wearing?

[Sharon Collier]

My son wanted to be a clone trooper for last Halloween. My husband found a
site online that showed how a guy made armor using those flat(less than 1/8"
thick) sheets of foam.It turned out great!Here's a picture (I hope. Maybe
you could use spray adhesive to glue the material onto the flat foam sheets.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Mary
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 11:17 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] what is your dressform wearing?

My workbench is gloriously empty after being full of clutter for far too
long. 

In the near future I plan to make soft sculpture armor for my daughter who
said she wanted to be a knight for Halloween. (Take that Disney Princesses.)
I recently found a silver graduation robe that I think will work well for
play armor. It certainly sucked for an actual graduation since it looked
like aluminum foil in all the pictures. 

In the next few months I'll be working on 12th century clothing for the
whole family. There is a themed SCA event in the spring that has everyone
around here thinking bliaut. 

Cheers,
Mary



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Re: [h-cost] Getting ready for Halloween

[Sharon Collier]

1962 "Gypsy", the musical about how she became the burlesque star. Great
performance by Rosalind Russell, playing her mom. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 9:38 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Getting ready for Halloween

> Gypsy Rose Lee

I couldn't find a movie with that title. I can find a few she played in and
a few about her life. Which one were you thinking of?
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Re: [h-cost] Looking for "bad" examples of costuming...

[Sharon Collier]

Actually, if you just lightly bone the bodice, so it doesn't wrinkle up
along the center front and at the back lacings that should be ok. At least
for what she seems to want. My first Ren bodice was boned, but I didn't wear
a corset/pair of bodies and it worked fine. Does she intend to wear a bra?
Maybe try to get her into a sports bra rather than a modern one. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 1:32 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Looking for "bad" examples of costuming...




Okay, this is weird request I know.  I have someone who wants me to make her
a "sort" of  accurate gown - This is an example of what she is looking for:
http://www.azacdesign.com/items/clothing/custom-special-order-clothing/lady-
versailles-gown-lvg-detail.htm

Problem is, is she is a size 28, and doesn't want to wear corsetry due to a
medical condition. 
I have explained the whole - it isn't going to look right without the right
undergarmentsbut I was looking for some examples I might show her.

So I am looking for pictures of larger women who may not be wearing proper
undergarments.  Even if the style isn't the same - 

I showed her this as an example of a larger woman who was wearing proper
undergarments:

http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/exhibitions/past/holbein_400.htm

Thanks,

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] Looking for "bad" examples of costuming...

[Sharon Collier]

Also, maybe she doesn't understand that a corset does not have to fit super
tight, a la that scene from "Gone With the Wind". It should just be as
comfortable and supportive as a good bra.  

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 2:36 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for "bad" examples of costuming...

I am looking for pictures to persuade her it is a bad idea.  I would really
like to distance myself from doing anything that is that grossly wrong - but
she seems interested in learning how to sew --- so I don't want to dissuade
her.

I should have said also, that I understand someone not posting a link
publicly...if you have something you would like to share, feel free to
contact me off-list.

Thanks, Saragrace


> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 20:45:08 +
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for "bad" examples of costuming...
> 
> sorry to be dense, but are you looking for pictures to persuade her it is
a bad idea, or pictures to work from to try to accede to her request? 
> 
> You might get by with partially boning the bodice of the dress itself or
something. 
> Darn -- Moresca.com has taken its site down for repairs; I remember them
as having pictures of women both in and out of corsetry in both large and
small bodies. 
> 
> Good luck!
> Lauren
>  
> 
> -- Original message --
> From: Saragrace Knauf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Okay, this is weird request I know. I have someone who wants me to 
> > make her a "sort" of accurate gown - This is an example of what she 
> > is looking for:
> > http://www.azacdesign.com/items/clothing/custom-special-order-clothi
> > ng/lady-vers
> > ailles-gown-lvg-detail.htm
> > 
> > Problem is, is she is a size 28, and doesn't want to wear corsetry 
> > due to a medical condition.
> > I have explained the whole - it isn't going to look right without 
> > the right undergarmentsbut I was looking for some examples I might
show her.
> > 
> > So I am looking for pictures of larger women who may not be wearing 
> > proper undergarments. Even if the style isn't the same -
> > 
> > I showed her this as an example of a larger woman who was wearing 
> > proper
> > undergarments: 
> > 
> > http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/exhibitions/past/holbein_400.htm
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Sg
> > ___
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> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Re: [h-cost] OT - Halloween help needed - toddler/preschool footballhelmet

[Sharon Collier]

Try a costume store. They often have mask type versions of various
hats/helmets. Can you make one out of an inexpensive play ball? Just cut out
the face part, spray paint it in the right colors and hot melt foam pieces
inside to fit (much like a bike helmet) 
Or, try to find a bike helmet that is the full round style, instead of the
swoopy, aerodynamic ones. Often little kid ones are more rounded. Then paint
it. And he can use it for his bike, too! 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Rebecca Schmitt
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 5:34 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: [h-cost] OT - Halloween help needed - toddler/preschool
footballhelmet

I'm starting to run out of ideas, so I'm asking here
 
My 3-year-old wants to be a "football guy" for Halloween. We have a jersey,
I can rig up pants no problem. However, I'm stumped on the helmet. No one
seems to make toddler size play football helmets! The closest I can come up
with is a $45 complete football uniform which includes the helmet from the
NFL shop online.
 
Does anyone have any ideas? Somewhere else to look? (I've tried sports
stores, athletic apparel, only the full sets, if anything, especially for
this age). Some way to rig something up? Although, once it is made, it may
need to take a beating during Sunday afternoon football games :)
 
Thanks!
 

Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
*
 
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Re: [h-cost] sewing machine woes

[Sharon Collier]

Sounds like the belt was defective, or maybe had some oil on it . I seem to
remember that oil can break down rubber. Worth looking into, maybe check
that you don't have oil dripping onto the belt inside the machine. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Alexandria Doyle
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 7:06 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] sewing machine woes

Just because I know that most of you will understand I am whining here.

Earlier this year on my 1952 vinatage Pfaff sewing machine I noted the belt
was separating, not surprising when you consider it was last replaced prior
to 1980, if ever.  I looked up a place on line and ordered a replacement,
and my separating belt continued to work in the meantime.  I installed the
new wone when it arrived and everything was good without a break in usage.
This weekend when I was pressed for time when I found the four piece
ensemble for my son's renn faire excursion was due next weekend, not next
month as I had thought, and I have a another such ensemble for a friend's
halloween costume, and there's an SCA event between here and there that I
need to put together a few things and ...and... That's when I noticed that
the replacement belt had bits of the outer plastic crumbling off.  I
continued through the shirt and found I was having trouble getting the
machine to work, the belt wasn't able to maintain the tension needed to run
the machine.

uuurggg  Fortunately, the local shop believes they have the belt I
need in stock and my son has the time off to go and take the picture of the
machine and the bad belt in to get the right replacement, so everything
should work out just fine.  It's just that I had a belt that lasted for at
least 25 years, probably 55 years and a simple replacement only lasted 8
months.  And those 8 months weren't heavy usuage months either.

alex
taking a deep breath and getting ready to finish that Waffenrock tonight, so
everything should be fine...

--
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you know,
having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood, injury,
mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's Friday..."  ;)
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[h-cost] cleaning question

[Sharon Collier]

On the cloth of gold thread, Bess mentioned cloth of silver. I have a small
piece (about 1 yard square), but it is tarnished where it was exposed to the
air when folded. Any ideas on how to remove the tarnish from the silver
without harming the silk?
Sharon C.
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Re: [h-cost] cleaning question

[Sharon Collier]

Thanks, I didn't know that about basic harming protein fibers. Aren't most
detergents/soaps basic? 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 7:00 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cleaning question


I'm wearing two hats here.

1. I've dabbled in silversmithing
2. I'm working on a degree in textiles.

One way to clean oxidization off of silver jewelry is to soak it in a
solution called "pickle," usually a weak acid, usually heated.  Some people
use vinegar.

Protein fibers are damaged by basic solutions, but are slightly strengthened
by weak acids.  Vinegar is frequently used to set acid dyes (used with
protein fibers), usually in a hot dyebath.

If you make a vinegar-water solution and heat it up, keeping it below a
simmer, and immerse and soak your cloth of silver in it, that
*should* do the trick.  It won't be instantaneous, it may take half an hour
or more.

Emma

> On the cloth of gold thread, Bess mentioned cloth of silver. I have a 
> small piece (about 1 yard square), but it is tarnished where it was 
> exposed to the air when folded. Any ideas on how to remove the tarnish 
> from the silver without harming the silk?
> Sharon C.
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Re: [h-cost] All Hallows

[Sharon Collier]

My son's school had a Halloween carnival. I told the kids I was a 10 yr old
dressed as a mom. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Shane Sheridan Chabot
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 11:59 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] All Hallows

So who dressed up for work today and what are you wearing?

I grabbed random stuff out of my closet and ended up looking like a rather
Gothy/Victorian dolly.

My newly sewn corset seems to be a lot more comfortable than I was expecting
- win! :0)

Sheridan P


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Re: [h-cost] dying question

[Sharon Collier]

You could dye over using something in the red range. Try cold water dye, as
then the wool won't shrink. Or soak it in very strong cold tea. It will dull
the color somewhat.
Or sew up a quilt with it as the batting. Or a quilted bed jacket/shawl. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Alexandria Doyle
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 12:02 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] dying question

I have some scrap wool flannel in a deep pink - it's not a pastel and it's
not a fushia, just a good solid color.  The color was good for my
granddaughter who is a pink girl, but not for me - I'm a jewel tone fan.

I want to make a shawl or drape that I can wear while in bed/ around the
house kind of thing -I'm getting ready for some major surgery that may or
may not keep me bed bound for the recovery, at the first of December, and
the local weather may be cold, and it may not... But I thought a wrap of
this wool would be lovely for reading in bed or while in the hospital.  I
just can't live with the pink.  I'd like something in the cranberry/claret
range.

I'm also expecting to full this so it will be real warm, because you never
can tell about hospital rooms, either over warm or freezing!

any suggestions on what colors to use to get the cranberry/claret color
desired?
alex

--
"I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you know,
having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood, injury,
mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's Friday..."  ;)
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Re: [h-cost] 2 questions, one 18th, one 19th

[Sharon Collier]

Try: 
Passamaneria Toscana in Florence , Italy
They have 2 rooms, filled floor to ceiling with trims of all types. (at the
Piazza S. Lorenzo, 12r) They have 3 locations. I just about died when I went
there. And of course, I was new to period costuming, so didn't know what was
period correct or not, so didn't buy much. (sigh)
www.ptfsrl.com
They don't sell the trims online, only finished pillows and tapestries, but
you could try contacting them. 
Phone 005 214 670 (Italy, so probably have to do international code first)
Fax #39-055 239 63 89

I went in 2002, so I'm not sure the fax number is still correct. But they
have contact info on their website.


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Hope Greenberg
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 12:24 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 2 questions, one 18th, one 19th

Hello -

I'm trying to gather materials to make an 18th century gown. Does anyone
know where I can find fly fringe? It's the type of trim on this gown, though
hard to see:
http://collections.vam.ac.uk/objectid/O74093


Also, I'm working on a semi-replica of this gown:
http://www.mccord-museum.qc.ca/en/collection/artifacts/M982.20.1§ion=196
I found some of this trim at the local Joanns but can't decide if it is
workable for the trim on this gown. The trim on the hem looks like it is
stitched on but the trim on the bodice looks like it is thread work. 
Stitch it well down on top of ribbon or what. Ideas?
http://www.mjtrim.com/Catalog/Product/66/00416/00416.aspx

Any help appreciated!

- Hope

-
[EMAIL PROTECTED], U of Vermont
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