You all may like this
http://transitionengineering.org/
"The mission of Transition Engineers is to create innovations that
disrupt the business as usual course, effectively manage the risks of
un-sustainable resource use and environmental impacts by
I've tried the candy cane method and the staple method and found them
very difficult to pound into the playa. The rebar tends to vibrate and
the vibration absorbs much of the force of the sledge hammer. This
year I'l be trying the acute L approach. Heat the rebar with a torch
and bend the top
Please! Do not use bungee cord to tie down your panels for transport!
That's not what it's made for, and not surprisingly, not what it's
good for. Bungee cord tie downs will put you at high risk of having
your panels take off and self-destruct along the highway, and maybe
cause an accident in the
it has
vinegar in it. Perhaps a workbench brush?
--
Them that's got shall get
Them that's not shall lose
So the Bible said and it still is news
-- Billie Holiday, God Bless the Child
On Aug 22, 2011, at 10:31 PM, Phil Dirt wrote:
You can clean the surface with paint thinner
is the way we must regularly stop
whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating.
-- Luciano Pavarotti
On Aug 24, 2011, at 7:43 AM, Alejandro Moreno wrote:
@Phil Dirt et al, I appreciate your concern and tips. Bungees were only
to make it home at 10pm at night
I built a stretch yurt for this year's Burning Man and in the process
came up with a few modifications. I mitered all connecting edges 30º
because I believe this provides the best structural strength. Mitered
edges distribute any outside pressure (e.g., wind) from the roof to
the walls to the
Charlie:
When I cut my stretch hexayurt I had a few pieces of scrap left over.
I found that by taping the obtuse angle ends together they formed a
triangular shape that fit perfectly in the angled end wall of my yurt.
I had enough to build two shelves with rectangular pieces to support
them along
These shelves were all made from scrap after building my stretch
hexayurt.
/Users/billsenger/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2011/Aug 22, 2011/
IMGP0338.JPG
On Sep 15, 9:49 am, Paul Van Heden brainsh...@gmail.com wrote:
Do you have pictures of this?
- pvh
--
You received this message
/a
or maybe:
http://i.imgur.com/0PyA6.jpg
and possibly:
http://imgur.com/0PyA6
One of these ought to work.
On Sep 16, 10:47 am, Joshua Keroes jos...@keroes.com wrote:
Photo didn't come through. Paste tohttp://imgur.commaybe?
On Fri, Sep 16, 2011 at 10:29 AM, Phil Dirt sen...@goldrush.com wrote
Here's an album of photos that might be useful. You can click on any
image to enlarge it, then click again to zoom in
http://phildirt.imgur.com/all/
On Sep 18, 9:01 am, Phil Dirt sen...@goldrush.com wrote:
OK, try this:http://imgur.com/0PyA6
or this:
a href=http://imgur.com/0PyA6; title=Hosted
the
structure is self-supporting in a manner similar to a geodesic dome or
pyramid.
I don't see a problem with a metal roof, but again, if your miters are
cut properly there's really no need for a metal roof.
Phil Dirt
On Sep 26, 4:09 pm, Pichard Kempo Karate fabien_pich...@hotmail.com
wrote:
Hello
I don't think that pentayurts would be necessary to withstand snow
loads and they would not make optimum use of your materials. I built a
stretch 6-foot yurt last summer and it is incredibly strong. The key
is to bevel the edge cuts (I used the 1-1/2 thickness), which adds to
the strength of the
I don't think that pentayurts would be necessary to withstand snow
loads and they would not make optimum use of your materials. I built a
stretch 6-foot yurt last summer and it is incredibly strong. The key
is to bevel the edge cuts (I used the 1-1/2 thickness), which adds to
the strength of the
I don't think that pentayurts would be necessary to withstand snow
loads and they would not make optimum use of your materials. I built a
stretch 6-foot yurt last summer and it is incredibly strong. The key
is to bevel the edge cuts (I used the 1-1/2 thickness), which adds to
the strength of the
I think you could slow deterioration of your filament tape by adding a
protective layer of the silver tape described on the main hexayurt web
site. You might want to try WD-40 to clean off the tape residue.
I used 12 x 24 sheet metal flashing bent to fit the top roof angle
(2) and the angle where
that I sized down to 1' = 1
proportions. This will help you a lot in checking your math before
committing to cutting the foam panels. Just cut the plywood and
assemble with masking tape. Better to discover any errors in the model
stage than to find out later when you're joining panels.
Phil
On Jan
Lindsay,
An 8 ft hexayurt would be plenty big enough for three. I think a 6 ft
stretch hexayurt would also be adequate, cheaper, and easier to set up
and take down, but a bit more cozy. Depends on how much stuff you want
to bring inside with you. I built a 6 ft hexayurt for last years burn
and
Four NBA centers? Probably not.
Unless your playa costumes include handcuffing yourselves together, it is
unlikely you will be in the yurt at the same time.
Only you can answer this question. If in doubt, mark out the footprint of
the yurt and roll out your sleeping gear.
On Thursday, April
I've just begun to learn welding and I'm eager to see what design you've
come up with.
As for your 20 minutes and one person rule, I think you're on to something.
Many plans never reach completion on the playa because they take too long
and require too many people to finish. I did, however,
I built a hexayurt for last year's burn and it worked quite well. Plenty of
room for two people to sleep and hold gear. Important to have a low and
high vent for circulation. I hinged the cutouts on the inside so I could
close them at night and put furnace filters on the outside to keep out
12:36:32 PM UTC-7, Jane wrote:
What sort of bevel?
On Mon, Jun 18, 2012 at 11:50 AM, Phil Dirt wrote:
I made beveled cuts on all the panels and feel that the bevels make the
yurt much stronger. The Camp Danger method puts a lot more stress on the
tape and doesn't transfer wind load
You could cut one or more square or rectangular portholes in the roof and
tape bubblewrap to the outside. Keep the cutout section, tape it back into
the porthole along one edge, and poke two holes into the other edge so you
can thread through a loop of twine to use as a handle. They you can
I tried to save money in building my hexayurt by using duct tape and
gorilla tape in some places where the bifilament tape seemed like overkill.
As Alejandro noted, duct tape and gorilla tape don't come in 6' widths. I
think 4 is the max you can find. So any structural joint will be at risk
of
I made six gussets bent at 60º for the ridge (2) and where the roof meets
the walls (4). I used the preformed W bend galvanized flashing material
left over from a roofing job, but you could buy the sheet metal at any
lumber yard or home improvement store. This allowed me to drill and cut a
I wrapped my stretch hexayurt in the tarp I used for a ground cloth and
taped it in place with ordinary duct tape. Didn't use plywood sandwich.
Used two 20' cam straps (NRSweb.com) to cinch it down. Made 12x24 gussets
out of scrap galvanized sheet metal to prevent the straps from damaging the
I didn't take any temperature readings, just hooked it up and it blew cool
air. It was too much cooling for my 6-ft stretch hexayurt, so we put it in
the kitchen shade area to cool ourselves outside. Water supply was not a
problem because I had built a sand/charcoal filtration system to process
, August 20, 2012 1:44:38 PM UTC-7, Phil Dirt wrote:
The elbow is simply there to direct the cool air from vertical to
horizontal. Probably increases the speed a bit because it is going from a
larger rectangular inlet to a 6 circular outlet. Air intake is through the
sides of the humidifier, where
I've never liked the idea of using so much tape to seal the walls to the
tarp floor. Inside or outside, you'll have some adhesion problems with the
playa dust, and a lot of tape to cut off when you're ready to break down. I
just applied two parallel strips of peel 'n stick foam door insulation
I built a stretch hexayurt and beveled all the edges where the panels met.
I think beveling is critical to the strength of the walls and also improves
the R value of the walls. Beveling is really not as difficult as some
imagine. I just placed a few 2x4s on a level surface, snapped a chalk line
I had my stretch hexayurt for two burns and so far no problem with the
bifilament tape deteriorating.
I used 2 fender washers to attach nylon carry straps to both ends of my
yurt. Burn a hole with a heated nail in a section of nylon strapping,
common washer under the bolt head on outside,
the stress of the hinges on the bolts is distributed over the entire
surface of the metal flashing.
On Friday, March 29, 2013 12:20:23 PM UTC-7, Phil Dirt wrote:
I had my stretch hexayurt for two burns and so far no problem with the
bifilament tape deteriorating.
I used 2 fender washers
yourself a favor and get the 1.5% paneling.
PS: Proper etiquette is to build with the manufacturer's logo on the
inside, but RMax is often stamped on both sides.
Phil Dirt
On Saturday, July 6, 2013 8:34:04 PM UTC-7, Jeremy Shaw wrote:
Hello all!
I've read that Dow Thermax is better quality
sun, night cold, and daily dust
storms. Otherwise, keep it simple. You want a shelter that goes up quickly,
goes up right the first time, and can be broken down easily at the end of a
sleep-deprived week. Laziness is next to Godliness.
Phil Dirt
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 2:01:09 PM UTC-7
. I like to sleep.
Phil Dirt
On Thursday, July 11, 2013 2:02:18 PM UTC-7, Ray S wrote:
Hi All,
I'm posting on behalf of a friend who is trying to build a new H12 this
year. In years past, I've always had success getting boards from Lowe's.
Even last year I was camping with some virgins
What you're all forgetting is the sheer stress that hinges (and the bolts
that hold them) put on the polyiso panels, which were never meant to be
structural.
I cut my 2' x 2' door in one of the 4' end panels of my stretch hexayurt to
better utilize interior space. The opening extends all the
You might want to rethink the hinge at the top of the door. It will need to
be held up with one hand every time you enter or exit, or suspended by a
cord, which would defeat the purpose of a door. Let it go and it will slap
you on the butt. I suggest having the hinge on the side, latch on the
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