KR> Canopy/Seat
I built it myself Trevor, out of foam ,glass and plywood formers. I lowered it to suit my butt -you could do the same. I had to proof load it to convince our nit-picky eaa.it was up to the job. Got a pic somewhere if you're still interested.. Mac On Sat, Oct 3, 2015 at 7:47 PM, Chris Prata via KRnet wrote: > hi mac, how much did you lower it > > also, is that bought seat? > > > > Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2015 07:16:15 +0100 > To: krnet at list.krnet.org > Subject: Re: KR> Canopy/Seat > From: krnet at list.krnet.org > CC: mac.xm657 at gmail.com > > This is how I did mine Trevor-Just lower the bucket to fit. > I'm 5ft 9 and it worked for me. > All the best. > > Mac UK > > On Sat, Oct 3, 2015 at 4:17 AM, T. W. Norman via KRnet < > krnet at list.krnet.org > > wrote: > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options >
KR> Canopy/Seat
hi mac, how much did you lower it also, is that bought seat? List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2015 07:16:15 +0100 To: krnet at list.krnet.org Subject: Re: KR> Canopy/Seat From: krnet at list.krnet.org CC: mac.xm657 at gmail.com This is how I did mine Trevor-Just lower the bucket to fit. I'm 5ft 9 and it worked for me. All the best. Mac UK On Sat, Oct 3, 2015 at 4:17 AM, T. W. Norman via KRnet wrote:
KR> Electrical System
Hi Sid I don't think that is a field driven alternator rather it is a permanent magnet alternator or dynamo. There is no field coil that is energised by the regulator. It's not needed, the magnets provide the field and it is unadjustable except by changing engine speed. The two wires you refer to I suspect are the AC output from the perimeter coils where the current is induced by movement of the magnet within it. More than likely they are the same colour (often blue or black). The current flow is positive in one wire and negative in the other and that reverses many times as the magnet rotates and the positive and negative poles pass by a coil. The AC is rectified by the regulator to produce DC which is then smoothed and regulated to provide 13.8v DC nominal. It is exactly analogous to the John Deere setup or that found in Harley motorcycles. You are correct, by disconnecting one or other of the two wires the alternating current flow is disrupted. However there will now be a very high voltage drop across the ends instead which has potential to break down your coil insulation. Crowbar overvoltage protection concepts and circuit diagrams are provided at Bob Nuckolls aeroelectric site. www.aeroelectric.com I hope this helps you better understand your electrical system. Regards John John Martindale 29 Jane Circuit Toormina NSW 2452 Australia ph:61 2 6658 4767 m:0403 432179 email:john_martindale at bigpond.com web site: -Original Message- From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Sid Wood via KRnet Sent: Saturday, 3 October 2015 8:17 AM To: krnet at list.krnet.org Cc: Sid Wood Subject: Re: KR> Electrical System I do not know any thing about the John Deer alternators. The Diehl alternator consists of permanent magnet array bolted to the fly wheel, a set of coils with iron cores bolted to the Diehl adapter case and a quite small regulator usually mounted on the firewall. Two wires from the adapter case hookup to the regulator. One wire is for the field and the other wire is for the alternator output. Without the field wire connected, the alternator has no snip - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2015.0.6140 / Virus Database: 4435/10744 - Release Date: 10/02/15
KR> Electrical System
Hi folks Yes, I agree with Paul, the function is too protect the wiring but, in the permanent magnet dynamo (20amp) setup, the only component capable of supplying 35amps or more throughout the system wiring is the battery thus the circuit breaker should be immediately downstream of the battery (not in the dynamo output where it can never trip thereby providing no insurance). You can't get blood out of a stone. Different story with a normal alternator (or a bigger dynamo) that is capable of supplying 35 amps or more. By all means protect your wiring with a breaker as per your usual arrangement in aircraft. A dynamo regulator failure allowing excess unrectified AC or DC voltage (depending on the failure) to pass into the system is dealt with using an overvoltage circuit that should drive a relay in the dynamo outputs to isolate the dynamo. Excess voltage will not trip a circuit breaker that relies on current for its function. It is the load on the circuit from your equipment (as normal or in failure) that will determine the current flow through the wiring but only up to the maximum that the dynamo can produce (20 amp rating). Anything more comes out of the battery (anything up to welding current)!!!. Your KR must be getting really close now up there in Brissiego the cowboys :-) Regards John. John Martindale 29 Jane Circuit Toormina NSW 2452 Australia ph:61 2 6658 4767 m:0403 432179 email:john_martindale at bigpond.com web site: -Original Message- From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Paul & Karen Smith via KRnet Sent: Saturday, 3 October 2015 6:40 AM To: 'KRnet' Cc: Paul & Karen Smith Subject: Re: KR> Electrical System Hi all, Circuit breakers and fuses are installed into systems solely to protect the wiring form too high current that could cause a fire. Selecting the amp rating of a breaker is a function of the maximum current carrying capacity of the conductor/insulation pair based on whether it is in free air or inside a mass bundle. Using one as the trigger for overvoltage protection might damage the generator but it will save the many thousands of dollars of other electronic systems in your plane. Good insurance I'd say. Paul. -Original Message- Cc: John Martindale Subject: Re: KR> Electrical System Hmmm, in which case having a 35amp circuit breaker in its unregulated output is pointless. - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2015.0.6140 / Virus Database: 4435/10744 - Release Date: 10/02/15
KR> Canopy/Seat
This is how I did mine Trevor-Just lower the bucket to fit. I'm 5ft 9 and it worked for me. All the best. Mac UK On Sat, Oct 3, 2015 at 4:17 AM, T. W. Norman via KRnet wrote: > > > Good evening, > > > > I've been able to finish my seats, and I am very pleased with the > results.However (you know how it is when someone says "however") I sat in > the airplane (and, yes, I'll admit to making airplane noises too) and I > lowered the canopy-the result was needing to cock my head to the right in > order to close it completely. > > > > Now, my question is three-fold: > First, the seat itself is kind of like Mark Langford's in the design and > installation of the base product. Where it differs is the upholstery adds > about 3 inches to my height. Now, I'm only 5'5" so I should fit nicely in > the aircraft. So, my first question is should I recess the seat farther > down > so that it's lower than the aft spar? It would mean re-building the seats > from scratch because of how the supports are developed. There is no > structural supports on the floor of the aircraft at all (which presented > the > challenge to begin with). > > Secondly, What are people's thoughts about raising the canopy? Has anyone > ever tried it? What trouble am I looking at to do this? > Thirdly, instead of trying to reinvent the wheel, how would one go about > reclining the seat so that I can have more head clearance without losing > visibility? > > > > In this situation, what would you guys recommend? Any of you found that > you're too tall for the setup? How did you overcome that? > > > > Thanks! > > > Trevor > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options > -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Scan.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 188114 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://list.krnet.org/mailman/private/krnet_list.krnet.org/attachments/20151003/023bfaf0/attachment.jpg>
KR> Electrical System
Hi all, Circuit breakers and fuses are installed into systems solely to protect the wiring form too high current that could cause a fire. Selecting the amp rating of a breaker is a function of the maximum current carrying capacity of the conductor/insulation pair based on whether it is in free air or inside a mass bundle. Using one as the trigger for overvoltage protection might damage the generator but it will save the many thousands of dollars of other electronic systems in your plane. Good insurance I'd say. Paul. -Original Message- Cc: John Martindale Subject: Re: KR> Electrical System Hmmm, in which case having a 35amp circuit breaker in its unregulated output is pointless. It will never trip because the dynamo at 20 amp rating is incapable of supplying that current in the first place unless it goes into substantial overspeed. What should be included is over-voltage protection across the regulated output that breaks (or shunts) the circuit in the event of regulator failure. Breaking unregulated output by circuit breaker or simple switch generates huge voltages in the dynamo coils that could break down the insulation around the wires in it because the power from the coils spinning in the non-adjustable non turn offable magnetic field has nowhere else to go. You should never spin a dynamo without somewhere for the excess power to go...even if it just literally a "crowbar" across the output. Alternators are very different because the coils are energised to produce the field (as opposed to magnet) and can thus be turned off. Spinning of the armature thus has no output and no adverse impact.
KR> Canopy/Seat
I sat in my plane for the first time a few weeks ago and ran into the same thing. ?I am looking at raising my dash board. ?This will give me more leg room to slide forward in the seat. ?I won't be lowering my seat because of control cables. ?I really like my custom seat cushion. ?My SITuation is very similar to yours.?? Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida? Original message From: "T. W. Norman via KRnet" List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: 10/02/2015 10:17 PM (GMT-06:00) To: krnet at list.krnet.org Cc: "T. W. Norman" Subject: KR> Canopy/Seat Good evening, I've been able to finish my seats, and I am very pleased with the results.However (you know how it is when someone says "however") I sat in the airplane (and, yes, I'll admit to making airplane noises too) and I lowered the canopy-the result was needing to cock my head to the right in order to close it completely. Now, my question is three-fold: First, the seat itself is kind of like Mark Langford's in the design and installation of the base product. Where it differs is the upholstery adds about 3 inches to my height. Now, I'm only 5'5" so I should fit nicely in the aircraft. So, my first question is should I recess the seat farther down so that it's lower than the aft spar? It would mean re-building the seats from scratch because of how the supports are developed. There is no structural supports on the floor of the aircraft at all (which presented the challenge to begin with). Secondly, What are people's thoughts about raising the canopy? Has anyone ever tried it? What trouble am I looking at to do this? Thirdly, instead of trying to reinvent the wheel, how would one go about reclining the seat so that I can have more head clearance without losing visibility? In this situation, what would you guys recommend? Any of you found that you're too tall for the setup? How did you overcome that? Thanks! Trevor
