[lace] Re: The whys & wherefores of using temporary pins in Binche
On 9/6/18 3:02 PM, Marianne Gallant wrote: we are no longer in a big hurry to make as much lace as fast as possible. And pins are cheap! I was baffled by descriptions, in old stories, of mottos marked out in pins, on cushions that were intended for practical use. It finally dawned on me that arranging your pins in a pattern made it easy to be sure that you hadn't lost one. Nowadays we dump them in a dish, and my only fear when I realize that one is missing is that one of us might step on it. -- Joy Beeson http://wlweather.net/PAGEJOY/ west of Fort Wayne, Indiana, U.S.A. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Central Repository of Errata - brilliant idea!
I miss Vibeke very much, she was a wonderful mentor. I have the resources and platform to contain the information, but I will definitely need one or more volunteers to get it set up. Once it is set up, I have the bandwidth to keep it updated with our current volunteer base. If anyone is interested and has a bit of time to donate, please let me know, I think this would be a very worthwhile project. Kim - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] The whys & wherefores of using temporary pins in Binche
Susan, Count me among those that happily use support pins in Binche! I discovered this trick in one of Ulrike's books and it has been wonderful. I am a tension-er, always tugging and pulling on my threads. I usually use my regular fine pins, not necessarily the really fine insect pins, but it depends on my mood. I think any holes left by pins will be much less unsightly than threads pulled out of place! I also leave those pins in the work as long as the others. Then when the lace is done and all the threads snipped I go around the cloth stitch areas with glass head pin and gently "scratch" the threads next to any holes to close them up. Usually you can't even tell a pin was there! Enjoy your Binche adventure! Anita Hanse in soggy Cedar Rapids, Iowa - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Starching question!
"My email sends out an automatic message. Arachne members, please ignore it. I read your emails."Dear Elena, This project will be worn and thus requires starching, Are you sure? I have starched Christmas ornaments, but never lace to be worn. The first question, in my opinion, is whether it should be starched. My first thought, without more definite information, is not. If the lace is so fragile it will warp when worn, should it be worn? I never cease to be amazed at how tough the lace I make is, even the stuff in 140 cotton. What really surprised me is how sturdy Mechlin lace is when completed, even though it looks like it would collapse. If I were you, I think I'd make a sampler piece of a size of one of your sections, take it off the pins after letting it sit in the pins for at least a day, and see what happens. I am assuming that this lace is your own creation, artist that you are, and you are stretching the envelope. Sadly, in those cases envelopes can collapse. Starching would connect the half stitch threads which usually slide around, but that starch connection would probably not last with wearing. The threads would be! stiff, but 50/2 is pretty sturdy stuff and doesn't usually need more stiffening. If this is not an original pattern, I would rely on the designer's ideas, and if starching is not called for, I would doubt it needs it. Lyn in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA, where this heat wave should leave tonight. We got home from Belgium on Monday, and I've been used to cooler temperatures. "My email sends out an automatic message. Arachne members, please ignore it. I read your emails." I'm working on a very >special and exciting project that I cannot wait to share, but for now it >must remain a secret. This project will be worn and thus requires >starching, but I have never had to starch a bobbin lace project before. Of >course I have many books in my library that discuss it, but I'm not sure >which is best. > >The piece is is being worked in three sections (moved twice), so my >instinct is to starch before unpinning each time so that it doesn't warp. >I'm using half stitch & torchon ground in 50/2 Egyptian cotton with a 2-ply >Japanese silk gimp, so I'm nervous about it getting misshapen. > >What is the best way to starch on a pillow? I also fear that the pins could >rust and mark the piece that is white... I'm not concerned about damaging >the pillow however, as I have loads. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Holes in Binche
Reading Susan's query, and the replies about using support pins to avoid holes round the edge of the lace, I've got a niggling memory from the lace identification we had to do for C (this is going back 20 years or so - goodness, doesn't time fly!) that one of the laces was to be identified by the small holes around the edges - it wasn't Binche, was it? If so, trying to avoid the holes might be removing an intentional effect??? Jane Partridge - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Stiffening lace
This subject has come up a couple of times recently. One very useful exercise we did at college when I was doing my City & Guilds, and which I repeated some years later with the ladies I was teaching, was to make a sampler of various methods of stiffening. The one thing I did differently with my ladies was to get them to write the date on the top of the page! We used machine lace, both cotton and synthetic, and cut it into short lengths to which various different stiffeners were applied - sugar water (two different strength solutions), commercial fabric stiffeners, blind sprays, spray starch, potato/rice water, hairspray, PVA glue (water based, neat and dilute) and whatever else we could lay hands on. One piece of each lace was left untouched as a "control" piece. Once stiffened, these samples were attached by an end to a sheet of paper on which was recorded the type of stiffener, brand name (if any), dilution (in the case of PVA and sugar water), and whether the lace was cotton or synthetic. For silk or linen, I would suggest using small sample pieces that you have no further use for, or possibly making a strip that you can cut down - though you are unlikely to want to stiffen silk (it rather defeats the object of it's soft draping quality!), linen would probably behave much the same as cotton (both being cellulose). This sampler allows you to see what level of stiffness you will get if you use a specific method, and to see what effect (any discolouration, progressive lack of stiffness, etc) time and storage have. Of those I used on my original sample sheet, the Winfield (Woolworth's own brand - you can tell how long ago this was!) blind spray started blackening the synthetic lace about three or four years on. If you are making anything that is to be counted as an heirloom, do not use any stiffener that cannot be removed easily, and consider whether or not you are creating a nice tasty snack for a passing moth grub. Work a small sample of lace in your chosen thread and stiffen it with your chosen stiffener - this will show whether or not you will be happy with the result, and save the problems of trial and error, possibly several times over, if you leave it until you have finished your lace - you don't want to spoil the end product, after all. Several years ago, The Lace Guild had one of their Triennial Exhibitions - Myth or Mystery. With a week to go before the closing date, I finally had a Eureka moment, and came up with an idea for a rainbow choker - plaited lace using rainbow colours of embroidery thread. I had decided to use dilute PVA, and with not too much time on my hands didn't try a sample first - PVA solution filled the holes as it dried, despite using a paintbrush to apply. At that point, it very nearly ended up in the bin. I decided to see if the glue would wash out (it did!) and used the age old solution of sugar water instead. This gave the desired result, and held the plaits in place despite the choker being hung from one end in a museum display cabinet for the three months the exhibition was on. (I have since washed the sugar out for storage). Washing out and re-stiffening once I got away with; had I had to do that several times the structure of the lace would have been at risk. In the competition! , the choker won a Medal of Excellence! Jane Partridge - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Starching question!
Hi Elena, I have had the chance to work with different starching materials on cotton and linen. I have only ever pressed silk (over a damp cloth). For starching I strongly recommend using all stainless steel pins to prevent rusting and always use some sort of a cover for your pricking (blue contact sheet or even 3" clear packaging tape) this prevents the ink from coming off the pricking and into the lace and it also protects your pillow. When you are finished with your piece, take out the non essential pins (example in a plain torchon ground you would take out the center pins and only leave the outside ones), then push all the pins down so you have easy access to the threads. Use a clean painting brush (very small square ones tend to work the best) to "paint" the starch onto the lace and let dry out. I like to use the standard fabric starches like Easy ON or Stayflo. It might be a good idea to test different strengths (dilution ratios) on a sample made with your desired threads to get just the right crispness. Good luck with the project it sounds exciting. Can't wait to see it on Instagram ;-) -- Dagmar Beckel Machyckova Fiber Artist and Professional Lacemaker 715.944.9608 To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Black lace
David, I also know you made your “Miss Channer’s Mat” in black with a light blue background. Soothing on the eye and good contrast! Cearbhael Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 6, 2018, at 9:57 AM, David C Collyer wrote: > > G'day > > No doubt, but I'm lucky enough to have a fabulous LED light and terrific > magnifiers :) > David in Ballarat - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] The whys & wherefores of using temporary pins in Binche
Susan, I stared making Binche with a traditional teacher who did not believe in using support pins. So she showed me all the tricks to avoid the holes. That being said, I now use support pins all the time. I use the very small pins. I find that even if I don't take them out until the very end I don't have a hole. Once the piece is finished no one can tell it you used support pins or not! Liz R, Raleigh, NC > On Sep 6, 2018, at 1:14 PM, Susan wrote: > > Hello All! I am working a small beginner sampler & the weaver changes every > other row. Since I do not know what I am doing (!!), this has lead to small > holes in the slanted edge of the cloth work. While I suspect this is a > tension issue that I must overcome, should I use a support pin at that point > to help keep the newly discarded “weaver turned passive” in place? Remove it > after a few rows? Temporary pins can create holes too so maybe this is a case > of a double edged sword. I am using the most delicious color of pale pink > Aurifil 50 so I would like to make decent lace. Suggestions are welcome. Many > thanks. Sincerely, Susan Hottle USA > > Sent from my iPad > > - > To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: > unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to > arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Starching question!
Hi everyone, I've been really enjoying everyone's conversations lately. Though I've started some replies, they've languished in the draft box due to my busy schedule, oops! I have a question for all of you lovely lacemakers. I'm working on a very special and exciting project that I cannot wait to share, but for now it must remain a secret. This project will be worn and thus requires starching, but I have never had to starch a bobbin lace project before. Of course I have many books in my library that discuss it, but I'm not sure which is best. The piece is is being worked in three sections (moved twice), so my instinct is to starch before unpinning each time so that it doesn't warp. I'm using half stitch & torchon ground in 50/2 Egyptian cotton with a 2-ply Japanese silk gimp, so I'm nervous about it getting misshapen. What is the best way to starch on a pillow? I also fear that the pins could rust and mark the piece that is white... I'm not concerned about damaging the pillow however, as I have loads. Thanks in advance for your help! I look forward to your advice! Best, Elena - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] The whys & wherefores of using temporary pins in Binche
Hi Susan, I started doing Binche a few months ago and ran into the same problem as you. Then I saw Nancy posting on Facebook that she had started using support pins when she was doing some of the early Binche lace and also started having holes appear. I have started using support pins in Binche, and it makes a huge difference. I use size 0 insect pins for support pins, since they are very fine, and it seems to make no difference when you take them out, I leave them in for quite a while, cause you never know when the next time you do something with those pairs you might end up pulling them out of position again. I use a support pin any time there appears a 'triangle' in the diagram when either pairs are taken into the cloth or taken out, which means that sometimes I have a support pin on both sides of a regular pin, specially if that regular pin does not support either of the 'workers turned passives' or 'passives turned workers', which sometimes happens when the regular pin is more to separate 2 pairs of passives to indicate a differentiation between parts of cloth work, and pairs are taken out and in just outside of those passives. Just because they didn't use support pins in the old days, does not mean we can't use them now, we are no longer in a big hurry to make as much lace as fast as possible. *Marianne* Marianne Gallant Vernon, BC Canada m...@shaw.ca http://threadsnminis.blogspot.ca, https://www.facebook.com/GallantCreation/ On 2018-09-06 10:14 a.m., Susan wrote: > Hello All! I am working a small beginner sampler & the weaver changes every > other row. Since I do not know what I am doing (!!), this has lead to small > holes in the slanted edge of the cloth work. While I suspect this is a > tension issue that I must overcome, should I use a support pin at that point > to help keep the newly discarded âweaver turned passiveâ in place? Remove > it after a few rows? Temporary pins can create holes too so maybe this is a > case of a double edged sword. I am using the most delicious color of pale > pink Aurifil 50 so I would like to make decent lace. Suggestions are welcome. > Many thanks. Sincerely, Susan Hottle USA > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Re: Mystery Thread
WOW Nancy you have really been doing 'my homework'. I will dig out my gem microscope today and take a look. I did not when I was viewing at 10 power that the ends sticking out were very straight, also there were various thicknesses. I have printed out the materials w=you have located on line and will be keeping them on file for future questionable threads. Lorri There's also a test to distinguish cotton from linen done by pulling the thread apart and testing the strength of the fibers. Bottom of right-hand column on first page: http://www2.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/articles/hr1_fibr.pdf - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] The whys & wherefores of using temporary pins in Binche
Hi Susan, Ulrike's rule is to use a support pin where it helps! If you use very fine insect pins, and remove them after a few rows, they won't leave a hole. "Fine" means size 00 or 000. Van Sciver Bobbin Lace carries them, or it may be faster and less expensive shipping from Amazon, unless you are philosophically opposed to Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B014MTBYUY/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8 sc=1 or https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NBMHN2/ or https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B074DBRHYC or https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CCJ922P/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1 or https://smile.amazon.com/Black-Enamel-Insect-Pin-000/dp/B01H0NHA5W etc. :-) Cheers, Nancy Connecticut, USA On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 1:14 PM, Susan wrote: > ...should I use a support pin at that point to help keep the newly > discarded âweaver turned passiveâ in place? ... > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Central Repository of Errata - brilliant idea!
Some of you will remember Vibeke Ervo who sadly died five years ago. As someone who was involved in publishing and book indexing she very much wanted to get an online errata project going and back in 2003 had even put together a list of errata in Pat Earnshaw’s books and started to gather others. She was working with someone who later dropped out. At this point David and I offered to help get things online but it never got any further. I can’t remember exactly what happened but I think Vibeke had to find a new job which limited the time available. I do still have the errata she sent me. This is something that interests me too (I have errata for my Lace Guild books on my website) and I’d love to offer to help but at the moment I have other things taking up my time. Jean in sunny Glasgow --- Jean Leader www.jeanleader.net - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] The whys & wherefores of using temporary pins in Binche
Hello All! I am working a small beginner sampler & the weaver changes every other row. Since I do not know what I am doing (!!), this has lead to small holes in the slanted edge of the cloth work. While I suspect this is a tension issue that I must overcome, should I use a support pin at that point to help keep the newly discarded “weaver turned passive” in place? Remove it after a few rows? Temporary pins can create holes too so maybe this is a case of a double edged sword. I am using the most delicious color of pale pink Aurifil 50 so I would like to make decent lace. Suggestions are welcome. Many thanks. Sincerely, Susan Hottle USA Sent from my iPad - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Central Repository of Errata - brilliant idea!
This is something which The Lace Museum could connect to our archive. The archive was my pet project before I had to take over as managing director, and things have gotten settled enough that I began working in the archive last January. There are several hosting options I have available and I will need to think through which one would be most advantageous. We are a member of the California Online Archive which is run by the UC system. You can look here and find us as a member: http://www.oac.cdlib.org/ I have a librarian who is helping us with file structure and has put a few files up on the archive as we work our way through. Because institutions can fail just as businesses do, I try to make sure things are always in as many places as possible in case one fails. We can certainly list on this archive and have it publicly available, but we also have the bandwidth to have it on our site. It would make sense to share the information with the IOLI library as well. I will take some time to think about the "safest" way to have this put together so that once it is put together it stays publicly available. That said, I will need a volunteer to organize the content. Sue, is this something you are interested in? Since we are run entirely on volunteer hours and donations I have to be careful to never start a new project with out proper volunteers in place or the project will not happen. Kim Davis On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 12:01 AM, Sue Babbs wrote: > Sue > > suebabbs...@gmail.com > http://babbsandbaobabs.blogspot.com/ > > Susan Hottle had the brilliant idea of a âCentral Repository of Errataâ > for lace books. This would be so helpful to all of us. It would be a great > way for authors to communicate with their readers - and for lacemakers who > had discovered errors to report them to authors for future editions. > > I'm hoping that some lace organisation (OIDFA, IOLI, Lace Guild etc) > would consider hosting such a list on their websites, and then the rest of > the organisations could link to that one page. > > Any representatives of lace websites willing to take up the idea please? > > Sue > > > > -Original Message- From: Susan > Sent: Monday, September 3, 2018 10:29 AM > To: lace@arachne.com > Subject: [lace] Corbettâs Flanders > > Personally, I am more sad than mad because I am certain the lace author > has sweat bullets to make the information available & he/she is likely > mortified that gremlins crept into the book. I just wish that there was a > âCentral Repository of Errataâ online. It would be a blessing to us all. > Susan Hottle USA > > - > To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: > unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to > arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Re: Mystery Thread
Alright! NOW I'm happy. :-) Thanks Cindy! Nancy Connecticut, USA On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 10:32 AM, Cindy Rusak wrote: > ...I have a cone of thread that still has the original plastic cover and > labels on it (including the 9052), and it is the exact same as Lorri's > except it is 70/2. The FFR red label does say Fil de Lin Dentelles, so I > think Lorri's thread is linen. > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
RE: [lace] Black lace
G'day Alex, I think if you were making it all day, and also by candle light, you would prefer to make lace using white thread and then dying it. No doubt, but I'm lucky enough to have a fabulous LED light and terrific magnifiers :) David in Ballarat - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Re: Mystery Thread
Hi All, I have a cone of thread that still has the original plastic cover and labels on it (including the 9052), and it is the exact same as Lorri's except it is 70/2. The FFR red label does say Fil de Lin Dentelles, so I think Lorri's thread is linen. From several cones I have, at one point it seems the colour of the plastic cone indicated the thread size, green for 90/2, red/orange for 80/2, grey for 70/2, etc., while newer cones seemed to have changed to all sizes having blue cones. Cheers, Cindy Rusak, Bracebridge, Ontario, Canada On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 9:46 AM, N.A. Neff wrote: > I'm sorry to be a stickler, but it is actually not conclusive that what > Lorri has is linen on the basis of Jane's evidence. Jane's second cone, > which is labeled linen, has a different stock number (9051 instead of > 9052). We still don't have a 9052 with an outer label on it. Neither of the > two cones in the picture, that are definitely labeled linen, match either > cone color of the 9052's. And Jane's 9052 is size 140/2, which is very fine > for a linen--not impossible of course, but less likely. > > > - > To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: > unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to > arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Re: Mystery Thread
There's also a test to distinguish cotton from linen done by pulling the thread apart and testing the strength of the fibers. Bottom of right-hand column on first page: http://www2.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/articles/hr1_fibr.pdf - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Re: Mystery Thread
I'm sorry to be a stickler, but it is actually not conclusive that what
Lorri has is linen on the basis of Jane's evidence. Jane's second cone,
which is labeled linen, has a different stock number (9051 instead of
9052). We still don't have a 9052 with an outer label on it. Neither of the
two cones in the picture, that are definitely labeled linen, match either
cone color of the 9052's. And Jane's 9052 is size 140/2, which is very fine
for a linen--not impossible of course, but less likely.
It would be nice to have Lorri's thread examined under higher
magnification. First, there's a quality difference:
"If you have access to a microscope, telling cotton and linen apart is
quite easy. Pick a few fibres off a thread and place them under the
microscope. Linen has smooth, straight fibres while cotton looks almost
wooly. It's a bit like straight vs curly hair." (
http://www.marquise.de/en/themes/howto/stoffkunde.shtml)
Secondly, and I think this is definitive, linen fibers and cotton fibers
come from different parts of the plant. Linen fibers are from the inner
bark of the flax stem ("bast fibers") and show nodes along their length.
Cotton fibers, from seed hairs in the flower head, do not have such nodes:
"An important property of bast fibres is that they contain a special
structure, the fibre node, that represents a weak point, and gives
flexibility. Seed hairs, such as cotton, do not have nodes." (
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bast_fibre)
Also, there are details of the burn test that would be more evidence,
although not nearly as definitive as the fiber structure. The website
http://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com/2010/02/distinguishing-linen-from-cotton.html
has a distinguishing criterion:
"5. On burning a linen thread, the fibers lie in the same position as
before with no change except the scorched appearance. Burning a cotton
thread causes the fibers to spread like a tuft."
Back to the lab bench, Lorri!!
Nancy
On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 4:55 AM, Jane wrote:
> ...
> One is on a grey cone with an internal sticker
> ART 9052
> 140/2
> ...
> The second cone is blue with an internal sticker
> Art 9051
> 100/2
> ...
> The main thing is that this second cone is unused and is in its original
> wrapper. The wrapper has a sticker stating (in blue ink)
>
> Fil de Lin a Dentelles
> ...
> I've just searched on line and there is a photo on the website
> https://bobbinlace.online/2017/09/24/thread-use-bobbin-lace-
> use-linen-bobbin-lace-thread/
> that shows two cones on the left of the picture, one is blue like mine,
> the other is green with a red label. The article makes clear that these are
> linen threads
>
> So you are correct in that the thread is linen.
> ...
-
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[lace] Re: Mystery Thread
Hello Lorri, Sorry I'm a bit late responding to your query. I have two cones of FFR thread given to me in the '80s. One is on a grey cone with an internal sticker ART 9052 140/2 WIT CA 3500m LOT 992 The second cone is blue with an internal sticker Art 9051 100/2 WIT CA 3000m LOT 2290 The main thing is that this second cone is unused and is in its original wrapper. The wrapper has a sticker stating (in blue ink) Fil de Lin a Dentelles BOUC 2 BTS F.F.R I've just searched on line and there is a photo on the website https://bobbinlace.online/2017/09/24/thread-use-bobbin-lace-use-linen-bobbin-lace-thread/ that shows two cones on the left of the picture, one is blue like mine, the other is green with a red label. The article makes clear that these are linen threads So you are correct in that the thread is linen. Best wishes, Jane - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Central Repository of Errata - brilliant idea!
Sue suebabbs...@gmail.com http://babbsandbaobabs.blogspot.com/ Susan Hottle had the brilliant idea of a “Central Repository of Errata” for lace books. This would be so helpful to all of us. It would be a great way for authors to communicate with their readers - and for lacemakers who had discovered errors to report them to authors for future editions. I'm hoping that some lace organisation (OIDFA, IOLI, Lace Guild etc) would consider hosting such a list on their websites, and then the rest of the organisations could link to that one page. Any representatives of lace websites willing to take up the idea please? Sue -Original Message- From: Susan Sent: Monday, September 3, 2018 10:29 AM To: lace@arachne.com Subject: [lace] Corbett’s Flanders Personally, I am more sad than mad because I am certain the lace author has sweat bullets to make the information available & he/she is likely mortified that gremlins crept into the book. I just wish that there was a “Central Repository of Errata” online. It would be a blessing to us all. Susan Hottle USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
