So, Audi lugbolts have a different curve profile than MBs?
On 12/27/05, Lee Levitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Lugs won't be a problem as...
...Um, Audi uses a non-standard seat on their lugbolt, a more rounded
surface than most other wheel manufacturers. Hmm. Maybe that will be a
problem...
--
Casey,
Audis have a different curve profile than standard lugbolts. They're more
conical. I have not looked at a Mercedes lugbolt to know whether it's like
the Audi or not...
Lee
-Original Message-
From: Zeitgeist [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 7:22 PM
hmm, the starship, hmmm, I bet regina wouldnt go for it.
OK Don wrote:
It's doing OK now - much quieter since I replaced the exhaust pipe
with cracks at the center clamp and rear flange. That center suport
bracket is suposed to be torqued to 5 ft.lb., but someone had
tightened it enough to
Thats probably not too out of range, I would think a little cheaper
since its got 280k on it. Maybe 4K, high 3's
Sunil Hari wrote:
My MB mechanic is trying to sell me a 1992 300D 2.5T with 280Kmi on it - new
transmission at 150Kmi, front end rebuilt this summer, new head, new timing
chain,
Only MB stuff. the BMW and MG stuff is still available if anybody wants it.
OK Don wrote:
WOW !!! Including the old MG windshield frames, etc.? The Rolls?
On 12/27/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Im sure you okieQ people from last year remember going over to Dan's.
Well he
It's not mine - just passing along the info. It's not OE, it's a Sir
Tools item, part# M0019. Can't beat the price, though - $10 + SH:
http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php3?t=140389
For reference, the OE tool is Mercedes part number 617-589-01-09-00
and is probably $35-$40 from
Those are RARE RARE RARE
R A Bennell wrote:
That's cool!
How about a right hand side mirror for a 115 - 76 300D?
Let me know if you find such a thing. I am used to being able to check the
right side mirror and am always surprised when it is not there.
Randy
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore,
While Leatherique will clean MB Tex just fine, it's mostly a waste of
money. The MB Tex won't absorb any of the pricey Rejuvinator Oil like
real leather does. I would just use a good vinyl cleaner, like
Meguiars or 3M, and then use Formula 303 when the seats are all
cleaned up. I also use 303 on
Dave, the fronts are the 5-spoke 17x8 ET37 E430 sport wheels, and
the rears are R129 wheels which look EXACTLY like the fronts but are
17x8.25 ET34. As for the control arms, I went with the regular
124-330-35/34-07 ones - late style with the non-removable ball joint.
They were a LOT cheaper than
I WISH I still had my '71 MGB. Had to leave it in Florida when we relocated
to Iowa. My father sold it for me, at what was probably a loss.
On 12/28/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Only MB stuff. the BMW and MG stuff is still available if anybody wants
it.
OK Don wrote:
WOW
Another option for this tool is the Koken one which I picked up a
while ago on eBay from El Paso Tool - it's this one here:
http://tinyurl.com/dq7to
It's actually an excellent quality socket, and made in Japan. Many
Japanese diesels use Bosch pumps, so methinks that they have similar
delivery
Sunil wrote:
My MB mechanic is trying to sell me a 1992 300D 2.5T with 280Kmi on it
- new transmission at 150Kmi, front end rebuilt this summer, new head,
new timing chain, valve job, new tires, and everything works. Few
dents, no rust.
He wants $4500 for it. What's the consensus on that
They ALL have head problems. The 2.5 dont crack heads, but the gaskets
usually go bad at some point over their lives. Its usually blowing oil
out, not coolant though. I wont say the ALL have the problem, but I
know all the ones I know of personally have.
Donald Snook wrote:
Sunil wrote:
Thanks for the quick response guys! I was hoping this one had a clean
Carfax. Thinking I want to snap this one up (pending a compression
check) since like Lee noted it seems to have been on the lot a long
time and they just marked it down to get rid of it before th end of
the year.
Alex
Apparently our '80 300TD is unhappy that I opted to take the Euro 280S out for
the weekend trip to visit with family, and is throwing a bit of a fit.
This morning, I came down to the car and opened the door and had an extremely
dim front cabin light. Uh oh, I think to myself, and - you
Are carfax reports available for 1977 vehicles? If so then I need one for
the following:
1Z37L7S419916
Thanks in advance,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com
Alternator?
Trampas
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of John Ervine
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 8:34 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
Apparently our '80 300TD is unhappy that I opted to take
On Tue, Dec 27, 2005 at 07:30:20PM -0600, Tom Hargrave wrote:
Are carfax reports available for 1977 vehicles? If so then I need one for
the following:
Generally not, since VIN standardization didn't appear until 80 or 81.
K
On Tue, Dec 27, 2005 at 08:34:12PM -0500, John Ervine wrote:
What wasn't normal was a 320mA current draw with *all* fuses removed. That
tells me that something unfused is sucking my battery dry. Off the top of my
head, that leaves me with a possible internal short in the battery (only a
On 12/27/05, Jim wrote:
Hey, it _looks_ like a clamp and I've got this nifty air wrench...
It happens! (This is why I DIY most everything these days. Or
is it because I'm a cheap b*d?)
-- Jim
YES.
On 12/27/05, Sunil wrote:
--
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 12:47:09 -0500
From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124's
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-D300-DIESEL-1991-MRCEDES-BENZ-300D-DIESEL-TURBO-NO-RUST-CLEAN-TX_W0QQitemZ4599171038QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81
What wasn't normal was a 320mA current draw with *all* fuses removed.
That
tells me that something unfused is sucking my battery dry. Off the
top of my
head, that leaves me with a possible internal short in the battery
(only a few
months old, but Autozone Duralast brand and severely abused
I ran across a mechanic in State College PA area who has three diesels he
wants to let go. One is a 123 chassis with 300DT around 210,000 miles runs,
I saw this one, it is a tad rusty but with a little tlc could be a good
driver. other is a 126 chassis the other might be a 115 chassis diesel.
yea, I think so
Tjohn wrote:
Is this a Sprinter engine? Seems like a good price if so... I just wish I
had the funds to make one work in my 126... I have dreams of increased
horsepower and mileage.
http://makeashorterlink.com/?P1FB2206C
Tjohn
82 300 SD 220K
Jim Cathey wrote:
The alternator will still charge with a bad diode, but it won't
do it as well as it should. However, an unremoved auxiliary fuse
for the wretched Chrysler ACC is an even more likely suspect.
I'd start there first, actually. These things are notorious
for freezing up and
Leatherique will have no effect at all on MB Tex. Get a good vinyl
restorer and try, but chances are if it's beginning to tear, the knit
backing is rotted a way and it's toast.
Options then are find a used cover or spring (ouch!) for a new set in
Tex or leather as you see fit. I'm making a
On Tue, Dec 27, 2005 at 10:00:48PM -0500, John Ervine wrote:
Guess it could be time to consider replacing the servo with one of those
new-fangled digital models...
Given the recent price spike of servos, the price gap isn't all that large
anymore (unless you have a spare servo and send it to
Kevin wrote:
Given the recent price spike of servos, the price gap isn't all that large
anymore (unless you have a spare servo and send it to the guy kaleb posted).
The price doesn't bother me - it's the fact that it could be sold for
considerably less than a rebuilt servo, but isn't. Oh
With the bidding starting at $900?
On 12/28/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mercedes-benz-turbo-300d-parts-car-1987-n-r_W0QQitemZ4600436856QQcategoryZ10076QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
Jim
The alternator is easy to test. Just pull the connector from the back of
the alternator and see if the current drain stops. By the way, an internal
leak can kill the battery but it would not register on your ammeter. The
alternator is the most likely cause (shorted diode(s)) in my
Hello Listers,
This is for the Gasoline engine experts among us.
I have a 1999 Ford E 250 van which has not been started for almost the past
three years, at the time, it was parked with a quarter tank of gas.
Today I made an attempt to start it with a brand new battery but no matter
how long I
I ran across a mechanic in State College PA area who has three diesels he
wants to let go. One is a 123 chassis with 300DT around 210,000 miles runs,
I saw this one, it is a tad rusty but with a little tlc could be a good
driver. other is a 126 chassis the other might be a 115 chassis diesel.
Neither does Google Earth. Microsoft Streets Trips does it.
On 12/27/05, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I think I did...can't remember...will try and let you know.
Chris
Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Try Google Earth.com Mike
- Original Message -
From:
First determine if problem is fuel, fire, compression or timing. Remove air
intake from throttle body, spray a little carb cleaner or ether in throttle
body, if engine starts then problem is fuel. If not then it is fire,
compression or timing.
Assuming problem is fuel, the next step is to check
On 12/27/05, Sunil wrote...:
My MB mechanic is trying to sell me a 1992 300D 2.5T with 280Kmi on it -
new
transmission at 150Kmi, front end rebuilt this summer, new head, new
timing
chain, valve job, new tires, and everything works. Few dents, no rust.
He wants $4500 for it.
Depends on the engine in particular. Since it turned over, that's a good
start! I would suggest carb cleaner in the intake to see if it brings it to
life. If the engine was carbuerated I would suggest a splash of gas down the
carbuerrator - same line of thinking.
Brian
On 12/28/05, Trampas
You can buy it from Baum Tool in Florida for about $100 or you can do it
without the tools which aren't really necessary but make life eaiser than
sockets, washers, nuts, and threaded rods.
Brian
On 12/28/05, Aaron Lam [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hello all,
Does anyone know where I can rent
By the way, the FSM also references a tool to make sure the diff ends up
square. I am not aware of anyone who uses that tool. Maybe someone is.
Most just put the new bushings back in the same location as the old ones.
Also be sure to note the bushings are not symmetric.
Brian
On 12/28/05,
Someone was asking about something to bring back leather seats - I bought
some stuff called Gliptone - a starter kit was ~$20 IIRC I bought it to try
out on the 85 300D leather seats I installed a while back.. In addition to
cleaning the leather better than anything else I'd tried, it has a
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-MB-300-DT-WAGON-DIESEL-TURBO-CARFAX-TE
XAS-CAR_W0QQitemZ4599847232QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Donald H. Snook
McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn Herrington, P.A.
300 West Douglas
P.O. Box 207
Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207
Tel. (316) 263-5851
This
Anyone have any opinions about the reliability/driveability of the older
126 380SE. I found an 85 that appears to be VERY nice.
Donald H. Snook
McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn Herrington, P.A.
300 West Douglas
P.O. Box 207
Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207
Tel. (316) 263-5851
This
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/300SDL-300SD-NOT-300D-300E_W0QQitemZ46000
42852QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Donald H. Snook
McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn Herrington, P.A.
300 West Douglas
P.O. Box 207
Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207
Tel. (316) 263-5851
This confidential message
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-family-owned-non-smoker-24-pix-NICE-TUR
BO-DIESEL_W0QQitemZ4599776367QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Donald H. Snook
McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn Herrington, P.A.
300 West Douglas
P.O. Box 207
Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207
Tel. (316) 263-5851
This
better make sure its getting spark first.
kayoooh @ gmail wrote:
Hello Listers,
This is for the Gasoline engine experts among us.
I have a 1999 Ford E 250 van which has not been started for almost the past
three years, at the time, it was parked with a quarter tank of gas.
Today I made an
have no clue
kayoooh @ gmail wrote:
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 18:37:27 -0600
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] anybody want a bunch of BMW parts?
To: Banned List [EMAIL PROTECTED], Mercedes mailing list
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
underpowerered but not too bad. These will have the double row timing
chain. Other thing to watch for on these engines is the timing chain
rails. They tend to break and cause the chain to jump time which in turn
bends valves.
Donald Snook wrote:
Anyone have any opinions about the
Anyone have any opinions about the reliability/driveability of the
older
126 380SE. I found an 85 that appears to be VERY nice.
Well, based entirely upon my driving of a 380SL once I think you'll
find the 380 to be a pretty pedestrian motor. But that one should
have the double timing chain,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/
eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4600042852
Hey, I kind of like that ad! Seems pretty honest about the description.
That's the kind of car I'd be interested in these days, if I were
in the market at all. Not a dish for everyone, though.
-- Jim
It should have the double row timing chain, so should be a good car.
The S class cars are a different breed than the E class - I tihnk
you'll like it. It should have a little more power than a 300SD, and
has a lower weight/HP ratio than the 300D 2.5. Try it, you might like
it.
On 12/28/05, Donald
Depends on the engine in particular. Since it turned over, that's a
good
start! I would suggest carb cleaner in the intake to see if it brings
it to
life. If the engine was carbuerated I would suggest a splash of gas
down the
carbuerrator - same line of thinking.
Nothing quicker or easier
Personally I prefer the longer SEL/SDLs, but that is a personal preference.
Additionally I am not a fan of the 3.8L as it is under powered to point of
bad fuel mileage.
Over all the W126 in my opinion is the greatest car ever made! Most people
who drive a W126 keep a W126 in their stable.
Kaleb Wrote:
Underpowerered but not too bad. These will have the double row timing
chain. Other thing to watch for on these engines is the timing chain
rails. They tend to break and cause the chain to jump time which in turn
bends valves.
I am not really equipped to replace a
I'd just check the timing chain stretch - same as on a Diesel, and
look at the rails that are visible while you're there - I thinl you
just need to pull the right cam cover. How many miles on it? Any
history?
On 12/28/05, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Kaleb Wrote:
Underpowerered but
That's a nice car. I like the color combo almost as much as my Pearl
Black/Grey MB-Tex TD. I bet that auction heads close to the $10k
mark.
On 12/28/05, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-MB-300-DT-WAGON-DIESEL-TURBO-CARFAX-TE
have no clue since I do all my own work.
Donald Snook wrote:
Kaleb Wrote:
Underpowerered but not too bad. These will have the double row timing
chain. Other thing to watch for on these engines is the timing chain
rails. They tend to break and cause the chain to jump time which in
I thought the trannys on these 124s were pretty bulletproof with regular
fluid changes. Don't know why it was replaced at 150K, but I'll ask my
indy.
don't know about the rear links - are they a standard weak spot? A/C works
well.
My MB mechanic is trying to sell me a 1992 300D 2.5T with
the one in my old 2.5 turbo was worked on. Not sure if a complete
rebuild but had about $1800 worth of work done to it before I got it.
Sunil Hari wrote:
I thought the trannys on these 124s were pretty bulletproof with regular
fluid changes. Don't know why it was replaced at 150K, but I'll
Aaron,
Wow, I didn't know there were R129 wheels in that size. Very
interesting! It was probably smart to get the late style LCA's, now
you have the option of running whatever brakes you want. It's a shame
the Sportline LCA's are so blasted expensive (~$700 wholesale per
pair, dealer only).
The opening bid for that Sprinter engine ain't bad. But look at the
seller's other items! OMG! How does he sell ANYTHING? His prices for
used parts are almost as high as new. Fifty bucks for a USED battery
tray? That guy is smoking some REALLY good crack.
=:-O
-dm
Aaron,
I think PP sells the equivalent SirTools (?) version for $112, PP p/n
58-076. They call it a 'Sub Frame Bushing Tool', but it's for the
differential-to-subframe bushings, not the subframe-to-body bushings
like you'd think. I don't have one, so if you buy it and want to
re-sell it when
It looks nice, but wow the bid price sure shot up there for a car with
over 200k, no leather, and no ASD. Hmmm. Also, I didn't realize Kumho
tyres were made in Germany! Learn sumthin' new every day. All this
time I thought they were Korean. The car does look nice, though... and
as usual, is too
Nothing I plan to bid on -- just strange to see something affordable that is
only 200 miles from my house.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1989-Mercedes-Benz-260E-Good-Condition-No-Reserve_W0QQitemZ4600052523QQcategoryZ6335QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K
it wont stay that cheap for long
LT Don wrote:
Nothing I plan to bid on -- just strange to see something affordable that is
only 200 miles from my house.
Yesterday I noticed our 190Dt started to overheat.
Outside temp was around 60F's but the coolant temp
shot up to 120C degrees. The auxillary fans came on
but the temp still won't come down. Last night I
inspected the belt drive system, replaced the fan
clutch with a good used one and also the
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1,1item=4600415563sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
If it does, you'll be coming north to drag another one home, won't you?
On 12/28/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
it wont stay that cheap for long
LT Don wrote:
Nothing I plan to bid on -- just strange to see something affordable
that is
only 200 miles from my house.
oh I doubt it, its probably already more than I would pay :)
LT Don wrote:
If it does, you'll be coming north to drag another one home, won't you?
On 12/28/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
it wont stay that cheap for long
LT Don wrote:
Nothing I plan to bid on -- just
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I want to suspect the
thermostat was the culprit but the one I just put in
was a known good one, actually came off the same car
when I did preventative maintenance.
Tstats can fail suddenly or never work at all. I know at one point my indy
said the failure rate on
Hi Tan,
Well, the good news is, your auxiliary fan switch still works - this
part is often dead after 10+ years (at least it has been on every W124
owned by my family.) That also means your dash gauge is probably
accurate. So you are either not getting coolant flow, or the radiator
is not doing
Dave M. wrote:
I didn't realize Kumho tyres were made in Germany!
One guy complained in a Tirerack review that his said made in China.
My 190Dt has new Kumho, but I never checked country of origion.
Ok Don wrote:
I'd just check the timing chain stretch - same as on a Diesel, and look
at the rails that are visible while you're there - I think you just need
to pull the right cam cover. How many miles on it? Any history?
It only has 104K. On a diesel that would be a mixed blessing. Low
My suspects for cause:
1. Bad t-stat at first, now air bubble preventing water circulation.
2. Plugged radiator.
Dave and all,
I am more leaning toward to a bad water pump. When I
turned the heater on which in turn turned the
(electric) auxillary water pump the temp droped maybe
2 degrees. My feel was that the coolant was plainly
not flowing throught the system, even the closed
circuit.
What's the story
Does anyone have a good site for eye 5 road conditions? (and moose
sightings) particularly the Siskiyous. I haven't been able to come up with
much. Driving south this time of your isn't my idea of something fun too
do, unless its FROM Ca TO Arizona :-)
A happy an prosperous new year to all. Oh
On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 17:46:31 -0700 Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It's not mine - just passing along the info. It's not OE, it's a Sir
Tools item, part# M0019. Can't beat the price, though - $10 + SH:
http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php3?t=140389
If it's a Sir Tools tool,
Don and other Dieselers,
Why don't you want to bid on this car. I know squat about the 2.6 motor
in these cars. The blower motor problem concerns me because the a/c
could be shot and their might not be a way to test it. I understand
that is a real pain in the ass (not to mention very
I already have a new Benz in mind and it isn't this one.
On 12/28/05, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Don and other Dieselers,
Why don't you want to bid on this car. I know squat about the 2.6 motor
in these cars. The blower motor problem concerns me because the a/c
could be shot
water pump goes out? Also how does the thermostat work
exactly? I understand the the bimetal parts expand at
the different rate when the coolant temp rises but
what exactly open the valves? Does the expansion rate
difference of the bi-metal opens the valve or the
pressure in the coolant system
I am not really equipped to replace a timing chain and rails. (I don't
think. I have never tried) Any ideas on what it might cost at a
decent
indy?
Circa $500 the last time I had it done.
-- Jim
Audi says it is still working out plans beyond Sebring and Le Mans.
AutoWeek | Published 12/15/05, 11:19 am et
Audi AG hopes it is once again a step ahead of the competition: Audi will
become the first automaker to fight for the overall win with a diesel engine
at the famous Le Mans 24 Hour
My friend recently told me he has a CD from Garmin that has world roads and
then you plug into th GPS and you know the rest... He's looking for the CD.
Last time he looked for something for me (A 240D manual) it took 1.5 months to
find.
Chris
Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Shoot - I don't have it either. I'll copy the list:
=)
On 12/28/05, Joe Knight [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Yuck! Sounds like you're going to have to drain the cooling system anyway
so you might want to check the rad for flow with a hose soon as its empty,
but given the onset of symptoms it
Kaleb wrote:
oh I doubt it, its probably already more than I would pay :)
It may not be more than I would pay for it. At least if I can do some
research.
Donald H. Snook
McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn Herrington, P.A.
300 West Douglas
P.O. Box 207
Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207
On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 09:34:05 -0700 Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It looks nice, but wow the bid price sure shot up there for a car with
over 200k, no leather, and no ASD.
Forgive my ignorance, what is ASD?
Craig
On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 11:45:51 -0500 dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1,1item=4600415563sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
Yup, that's mighty nice. Brand new, even.
I noticed one thing:
Engine: 280 Horsepower
Quite an
Zeitgeist wrote:
Thanks for the hubcentric tip.
So, if the Audi hub centers are too small, I could theoretically take
them to a machine shop and have them opened up to MB specs--the
Vanagon guys do this all the time and claim it's relatively cheap.
Seeing as you have to open up Mercedes
http://makeashorterlink.com/?O2B73216C
There should also be an 800 number listed somewhere for the Highway
Patrol like we have in CA.
If you're heading to AZ on I-10, give me a shout out...I'll buy coffee.
On 12/28/05, Steve Marci [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Does anyone have a good site for eye
Jim Cathey wrote:
The thing is, they rarely fail in a way that stops them
pumping. Usually they leak, or the bearings go bad.
It would be my _last_ suspect.
It's rare, but I know of at least one case (though not on a Mercedes)
where the vanes corroded right off the pump impeller! The
126's are wonderful cars. Make sure that you check the trunk for rust, both
in the wheel well, and underneath the package shelf (you may have to lie on
your back in the trunk to see it). I believe that as others have stated the
380 engine is a bit underpowered, although the double chain versions
Yeah, I noticed that $25k number in the text also. Any idea what the
market value is on this thing? I'm wondering if the misprint is in the
text, and reserve is under $125k. (??) I could see that CDI engine
alone selling for $25k!
=)
+dm
On 12/28/05, Joe Knight [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Looks
Dave M. wrote:
Hi Tan,
You can test the t-stat in a pot of hot water, it should visibly open
fully by ~94°C, before the water is boiling. No pressure is needed to
make the t-stat open. I'd pull the water pump and replace it. I
suspect the impeller could be separated from the shaft - not
Tan,
I think the new pumps are OK, but I forget. I recall that last time I
checed, the rebuilt pumps from the dealer (or Rusty) were a lot less
than new. Maybe that's no longer true? I generally prefer dealer parts
due to the warranty. I believe the dealer parts you buy through Rusty
also carry
On Wed, Dec 28, 2005 at 07:25:40AM -0800, Jim Cathey wrote:
Depends on the engine in particular. Since it turned over, that's a
good
start! I would suggest carb cleaner in the intake to see if it brings
it to
life. If the engine was carbuerated I would suggest a splash of gas
down
Hi Craig,
ASD is a traction control of sorts. Basically, cars with ASD have a
limited-slip differential that has something like 20-40% locking all
the time, via internal clutches in the ring gear carrier. When the
computer senses wheelspin, it engages an external hydraulic system
that locks the
dunno' how good it is, but this is usually a good place to start for
highway info and shows the traffic info phone number (Cowtrans is
understandably weak for moose sightings,...):
http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/roadinfo/
here's an alternative way to get to what is basically the same info:
Careful with that water hose in the radiator. House hold pressure can be up
to 50lbs, more than some radiators can take. Ask the preacher what happened
when I worked on one of the church buses, don't ask me.
Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans
On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 12:22:37 -0700 Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Yep, but even with all that power, it still has a speed limitator
(sic) that keeps things under 70mph.
Isn't that still 20 - 25 mph faster than the older ones?
Craig
I'd bet trying to drive one of those things any faster than 70 would be
like trying to hang onto a greased pig :-)
--Robert
Craig McCluskey wrote:
On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 12:22:37 -0700 Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Yep, but even with all that power, it still has a speed limitator
Howdy -
Recently I asked the list for a source for mud flaps for W123's without
success. I eventually found some on eBay and rec'd them today. The rubber
is pretty thick with a MB Star on it. They were 30 UK #'sterling which
includes shipping to the US.
I haven't installed them yet and I
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