not hard at all if you have the right equipment. I saw a report on
German TV a couple of years ago where there was a thriving market for
folks who would come to your house etc and reset the odometer to any
reading you want ( and at the time is was not really illegal, one of
those loopholes
Enterprise is *supposed* to be real good at maintaining their vehicles,
but I had to rent one of their compacts a couple of years ago in New
Hampshire that only had about 10k miles on it and the thing was beat.
At least most of the car places are better on keeping the scheduled
maintnence up,
I sent you a PDF file that should answer your question. If the system is
completely flushed, go by the total system capacity in the first section.
-Robert
archer wrote:
I have a new Harrison A/C compressor from Rusty ready to go in an '83 240D.
A tag says oil must be added but does
I was working in a machine shop then, and everytime someone brought a
vega engine through the door, we'd tell them right off that the head was
most likely going to be trashed beyond repair. Every one that came in
was either warped or cracked, most were too far gone to fix, and it was
generally
The audi wasn't worth that much new. Those things were a wiring problem
waiting to happen, at least all the dead and dying ones that crossed my
path not long after they were new.
Too bad the syncro isn't a diesel.
-Robert
Mitch Haley wrote:
Misc 70's-80's German Michigan/Indiana/Ohio
I don't know about ceramic in there, but given what a pain it would be
to try and weld that thin old flex, and that it wouldn't likely last
more than a week, I broke down and bought the new pipe section when
faced with that problem.
---Robert
John Robbins wrote:
John Robbins wrote:
If that's one of those chinese diesels, one of those little red levers
is most likely a compression release . You hold that down while first
cranking and it allows the engine to spin a little faster, then you let
off as it starts to catch ( at least it works that way on some of them )
There's a few factories in China making those generators like the NT one
, then different retailers just get them painted different colours and
have their sticker popped on. If you dig around on ebay, there's a
seller who has them for $800 with the remote and automatic transfer
switch to make
Kirbys aren't a ripoff, they are a pretty impressive machine. And unlike
most other brands, you can still get parts for any of them, no matter
how old.
We've got one from the 50's that I've had forever, still runs great, but
I didn't like having to dump the cloth bag with my allergies, and i
, which may end up being the easier way to go, but the
little diesels are about the same as the 6500 jobs, and my truck is
diesel, so if I get a cheap gas generator, I'd have to haul another fuel.
-Robert
Alex Chamberlain wrote:
On 9/13/07, Robert Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
$380 is a steal. Grab that thing.
I bet its in the wrong part of the country for me to swoop in and snag
it :-)
-Robert
Jim Cathey wrote:
That's the lowest price by far I've seen on a Chinese diesel generator
package of that wattage.
The local liquidator has a 6kW unit for
Article in AutoWeek online, says MB is going to have a diesel electric
hybrid out is 2010
You have to sign in for the article
http://www.autoweek.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20070911/FREE/70911001/1024/FREE
Or :-)
Mercedes-Benz plans to roll out a wide range of diesel- and
hybrid-powertrain
The snap on trucks usually carry the metric flare nut crows foot
wrenches too.if you can chase them down. Granted, they get about $22
each for them.
---Robert
George Larribeau wrote:
Can I get them off the IP with a flair nut wrench, or am I gonna need to het
the fancy
Those HF flare nut wrenches are great...so long as the nuts were so
loose to begin with that you could have got them off with an open end.
If they're good and tight, the things will spread out and maul the line
nuts to where getting them off turns into a major project.
I'll cheap out on a lot
Those things are sweet! Napa had one on display a few months back , and
for a few bucks less than that if I remember , but I just looked online
and they're up to $389 now
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470LineCode=BKPartNumber=8156264Description=Tool+Cart
that is
Could be just low on fluid, or a dirty valve body, cable way too
tightor the tranny could be toast.
Nice looking car. If you want it, bid assuming it needs a tranny at
minimum, along with all the other usual ebay seller unmentioned items,
present company excluded.
-Robert
Curt
There are a number of homemade ones out there, made from grease guns and
bottle jacks , but all of the designs I've seen use iron plumbing parts,
and if you've ever checked the pressure rating on those things, it's
only a few hundred psi at best, and I certainly wouldn't want any body
parts in
Providing that you either don't get some really nasty fuel through them,
or have some unexpected thing like excessive oil burning rear it's head
, or you don't just get an urge to fiddle with them, you shouldn't need
to fool with your fresh injectors for a good 100K + miles
--Robert
If you get a second chance offer, contact the original seller through
ebay and find out if it's legit. Most of the time it's scammers that go
behind hot auctions like vultures and hit everyone on the bidder list.,
if it really is from the seller, you're good to go.
-Robert
Hendrik
We buy just about everything but fuel and groceries online, It saves a
minor fortune.
Building material have remained the last bastion of protected
territorial marketing , but it looks like that's finally cutting loose
as well. It's about time.
I have no sympathy for the local business owners
The heat shield isn't for keeping the sun out, it's for keeping the heat
under the hood and the paint on your hood.
It would be worth a few extra bucks for a little extra protection in the
long run.
--Robert
LarryT wrote:
Howdy -
I need a hood pad for the '78 240D and noticed
http://www.tascavolvoparts.com/
http://www.fordpartsonline.com/
https://www.1stfordparts.com/
All basically the same parts list, sometimes one or the other will not
have something listed or prices can be different
Depending on what vehicle you're needing parts for , I have a few more.
I run a recording studio on the side...or at least I did before the fuel
and utility prices went nuts. Now all the broke musicians are REALLY
broke and business is slim at best. We specialize in recording all
acoustic stuff so I know very little about noisy distortion effects or
any of that
I think you should sell the thing to me for $50 :-)
Seriously though, how long ago was the hose fixed before? Where exactly
is it leaking now? the middle of the hose, at the crimp fittings? When
the hose assembly was rebuilt before, did they cut off the crimp
collars and put the new hose on,
Nowadays everyone puts so much emphasis on airbags, that they seem to
have forgot that airbags are, by definition , a supplemental restraint.
Their primary reason for being is that so many people forget to or just
don't use seatbelts, that the insurance companies figured that mandatory
, with drops of dye-colored fluid coming out right
where the crimp fitting is.
David
*/Robert Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED]/* wrote:
If it's just leaking around the crimp, there's no reason that you
couldn't get a new piece of rubber put on your assembly for $20-40 .
About
hours, plus the cost of the evacuation, and filling up
with 3 lbs of refrigerant.
David
*/Robert Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED]/* wrote:
I think you should sell the thing to me for $50 :-)
Seriously though, how long ago was the hose fixed before? Where
exactly
Message -
From: Robert Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2007 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Decent 6.9 in Atlanta
Not a bad looking car, but that silly little story included from the
star is pure fiction
Not sure about the current rules, but used to be nascar had to be
'merican stock body shape, and engine had to remotely resemble a block
available in production for said body style. Under that, a diesel would
have to be available as a production run ( not option ) for the car.
However under
The folks at http://www.ufixitautoparts.com/ are having a couple of
serious clearance sales going on. They're having a parts by the pound
sale with all the parts in that catagory selling for a buck a
pound...the catch, no application references, so you either have to know
what you're looking
Aw come on, you know that every used benz being sold with non working AC
only needs a recharge...you aren't supposed to pay any attention to
those silly locked up compressors or giant gaping holes in condensers
and the like :-)
-Robert
Hendrik wrote:
Basically if you can't turn the
Not a bad looking car, but that silly little story included from the
star is pure fiction. Anyone who's ever owned a '68 GTO ( present
company included ) knows that 120 is just a nice mild cruising speed,
those beasts don't even start breathing hard till around 180...that's
when it's time to
of the factory geared to run, people who wanted street racers generally
switched them to lower sets later, although there was almost endless
options for the things.
-Robert
Mitch Haley wrote:
Robert Tara Ludwick wrote:
Not a bad looking car, but that silly little story included from
Did her AC start blowing not as cold at the same time?
AC blow off valves cutting loose at stop lights on real hot days is
pretty common., Wind up with an unknown cloud either billowing out from
under the hood or out the back if the engine fan is kicked in .
---Robert
archer wrote:
Are you running any biodiesel or WVO?
---Robert
Wonko the Sane wrote:
Bought a length of injector bypass hoses from Rusty a while back -- maybe a
year ago.
Have replaced factory hose on both of my diesels (VW Benz).
EVERY LINE HAS LEAKED and has had to be replaced. I am getting at
fuel, either straight dino or B2 (2% biodiesel).
On 8/28/07, Robert Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Are you running any biodiesel or WVO?
---Robert
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http
It would have been nice to see a picture of the fancy bedroom described
, or maybe the cockpit , instead of him mugging for the camera.
Let's see..9'8 wide, he fails to mention that you'd need to buy an
oversize permit every time you put it on the street, in some places
you'd have to hire an
Here in the US most suffered from poor maintnence. Selling an economy
car with a diesel engine to the downscale market leads to infrequent
oil changes coolant changes etc. Add to that the ones that have broken
down in middle 'merica over the years and due to the lack of knowledge
of diesels
Howes lubricator is some great stuff for pumps ( and it does a nice job
of cleaning ), but the lubrication isn't the big problem, With changing
the fuels, older pumps ( all kinds ) are sprouting seal leaks, it's not
that the new stuff will eat up new pump seals, its just that old seal
Most parts places have it near the gasket sealer. Comes in little rolls.
---Robert
John Robbins wrote:
Jim Cathey wrote:
Yeah, gasket paper. Cheap and effective. Just takes a bit of
time. Like 10 minutes!
Where do you guys find this stuff? None of the local McParts have
You have to check to see if your homeowners/renters insurance covers
your stuff in a move, then file with them and let them duke it out with
the carrier.
---Robert
andrew strasfogel wrote:
We had insurance and they still only reimbursed us $.45 per pound,
regardless of the items' value.
One thing most people don't know is that its real rare for your stuff to
go on to a moving van and be delivered by same van on the other end, at
least not without some shuffling in between. One truck will generally
make a handful of pickups in an area, then go to a storage facility,
where it's
Figure the fuel on that uhaul at closer to 4-5 mpg.
When I had to rent a uhaul and a car trailer to get from Buffalo NY to
Little Rock AR a few years ago it cost me 2 grand for the equipment and
a minor fortune for the gas ( and that was before the gas prices went
nuts ) and all I was hauling
Correct, new ones are not matched and the spec allows for some error,
but if you want the thing to run extra smooth at idle, you can take them
in and have them matched ( some call it balanced, same thing ) to a much
closer figure.
Robert
Curt Raymond wrote:
I was under he impression
Only problem with that is you need closer to 30 to get any moisture out
of the system.
---Robert
Trampas wrote:
A proper running car will pull to about 19 at idle which on the hot days of
summer around here it is pretty good.
Trampas
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL
They make driveshaft de-coupler kits for toads, along with brake
actuators for the cars brakes. Dig around the RV sites and you'll find
them.. For the driveshaft, you'd wind up with an extra lever in the car
to disconnect the driveshaft , then you don't have to worry about the
tranny.
Aero Kroil is your friend www.kanolabs.com
Soak the glow plugs down overnight with that stuff, a couple of days if
really stuck.
Definitely use antisieze compound on the new ones. I personally like
the stuff that Liqui Moly makes, the copper base. GPs come right out of
aluminum or iron heads
And a zero feedback seller to boot.
I wonder if the owner of that house knows that there was a cheesy used
car salesman taking pictures in his yard..
---Robert
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Not quite as tacky as the old Rolls Royce looking front end on the
Beatle trick, but tacky none the less .
-Robert
Hendrik wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=290151352486ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:1
This person should be sued for a number of reasons but unfortunately
I know what you mean about the cloud cover. I lived across the river
from Portland in the hills outside of Vancouver for a few years. I was
traveling for work, and every time I was heading home with plans,
everything was soggy and gray . It got old pretty quick
I'll never forget my well adapted
Just beat it on something, or blow it out with air.
If you want to get fancy, just pull into one of the few zillion offroad
specialty places in Phoenix and they shouldn't have any trouble fitting
your filter with a washable pre filter.
--Robert
Marshall Field wrote:
I am going broke
I don't know on the 124 specifically, but as a general rule, about 1 oz
for a condensor.
If your email inbox can stand it, I'll email you a pdf file of a
refrigerant lubricant chart.
Robert
Zeitgeist wrote:
I just got my new condenser (see the jeer at the idiot thread) and it seems
I've
30 psi is a bit on the low side What is the ambient temp outside ,
preferably readings in the shade and the sun ( the shade is the one
you'll find on all the weather sites )
---Robert
Allan Streib wrote:
...goes to the Ford Focus, and the decision to locate the AC low side
service port
My wife, who runs a restaurant, and I love to watch Rachel Ray with the
30 minute meals...and count how many times she cross contaminates her
utensils /cutting boards/hands etc between raw meat and veggies etc that
are going to be served raw or lightly heated. If anyone actually ate the
stuff
Hey Kaleb, I found the box from Napa that my AC fitting adapter for the
vacuum pump to hook to the yellow hose, came in. The part number is
409551 non napa part #
on their website
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430OEMPartNum=409551
Looks Like I got off cheap, they
I've installed lots of Nissens radiators in a variety of different
vehicles. Great quality and fit. For every application so far, their
radiators have had more rows of tubes and more fins than the stock
radiator ( some as much as 30% more capacity )
---Robert
Robert Bigham wrote:
I'd say the decimal two places to the left estimate is probably
accurate. There may be that much in metal, but in a recent conversation
with a boneyard owner, it was costing him a combined $20 an hour in
labour to tear the things apart , so if your time is worth anything and
it would take a
That definitely falls under adding insult to injury :-)
Where's the rotten fruit???
Robert
Rich Thomas wrote:
dumbshitedly
I think that word needs another t in it, and a U before it!
--R
Zeitgeist wrote:
Hi, my name is Casey, and I'm an idiot.
Here's great fun for the
Is that thing a two seater?
Don't feel bad, I hate those little push through mounting things. I
don't know why they make them. I got a free radiator for my truck a
while back that was fine, and I mauled a handful of the inner tubes
while removing a dual electric fan setup that the previous
Most likely a fuse or the control unit, but there may be a high pressure
switch on that system, or a few other switches thrown on just to make a
mess like most later GM ac systems that make me ill and angry to work
on. Hard to say without seeing it. you may be able to find some decent
online
If you buy a good set, you won't be sorry. for occasional use the cheap
ones work fine, but the connectors and knobs don't last long if used a lot.
---Robert
Allan Streib wrote:
Went to put a can of R134a in my wife's car last night, and could not
find the cheapo tap and hose that I
The hoses won't fit without adapters and those are getting harder to
find. If you do get an r12 set with adapters for 134, you will need to
drop by an HVAC supply and buy a bag of the little rubber washers that
go in the fittings, because they take a beating ( they're dirt cheap )
R134 guages to it.
Robert Tara Ludwick wrote:
The hoses won't fit without adapters and those are getting harder to
find. If you do get an r12 set with adapters for 134, you will need to
drop by an HVAC supply and buy a bag of the little rubber washers that
go in the fittings, because
Ha, That reminds me of a whole bunch of years ago out in LA, I was
driving home at about 2 am at the speed limit, 55 mph on I 210 ( I
think that's the number , foothill freeway? been a while )and got
pulled over. The cop explained that the reason he pulled me over was
that the only people
Now THAT would be one sweet truck. I wonder what they had to do for
front springs ( as the gears turn in my head looking out at the f350 in
the driveway :-)
-Robert
Mitch Haley wrote:
Several years ago, a fellow put a C series Cummins 6 cylinder (8.3L I believe)
in front of a
That ought to turn into one nice truck, those things are stout, not very
fast, but stout, and they generally last a good long time. I seriously
considered getting one of the crew cab models to drag my 5th wheel
around, but there aren't any used ones around here, they're all in the
north east.
Theres a lot of cheap mid sized trucks on the east coast cheap, but you
really have to watch them, cracked frames, broken springs etc are
commonplace, especially the ones that run NJ and NYC regularly. you can
put 20 years worth of wear in 2 years there.
---Robert
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
I wish I could get that kind of mileage out of my old ford 7.3 IDI
international, but have a 1 ton crew cab with 4.10 rear and a heavy
towing bed, at last count I'm getting around 14 mpg dragging 10,000
pounds of trailer around.At least no computers to deal with on that beast.
---Robert
Now that's a sweet idea!
If you were to keep an eye on the papers out in LA every once in a
while an old rolls in the state of neglect required for such an endeavor
pops up cheap.
--Robert
Alex Chamberlain wrote:
Ive said here before, I've been dreaming for a long time of
putting a
You can find out about that beast over on the forums at oilburners.net
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=6
--Robert
Kevin Kraly wrote:
I've come across what seems to be the deal of the century on a small Diesel
bus. It's a 1994 GMC Vandura cutaway chassis 16
If you wanted to search all the CL sites at once, go to google and type
in this format Mercedes site: craigslist.org and it gives results for
all of them. Unfortunatly, I don't know how often google updates their
search of craigslist so there will be a lot of out of date results.
I just tried
Tearing into compressors generally requires more dollars in special
tools than the price of a new compressor. Speaking of which, that
compressor that you bought a year or two ago, was it new or rebuilt. If
it was rebuilt, chances are , it's a bum compressor. I quit wasting my
time and
You nailed it.
A ford truck where the power steering pump doesn't whine at least a
little, is a pretty rare thing.
---Robert
OK Don wrote:
I wondered if it was normal for a Ford - or non MB vehicle.
FWIW my 95 Mazda B2300 (Ford Ranger) has always had a whiny PS pump.
Might want to
Parts on ebay Germany for an old Benz or any other European car
generally go for way less than what those parts go for here. I've been
known to shop on ebay Germany on occasion and save a fortune.
Robert
Zach wrote:
Since you already know the shipping cost why not post it on ebay.de?
Most states won't allow anything to be towed with wheels on the ground
without tags. On a trailer , you're OK . In NY I bet it's cheaper to
rent a trailer than to call a tow truck ( after an experience with NY
tow truck rates a few years ago...OUCH!
---Robert
Levi Smith wrote:
Anyone
If you're in the north east or possibly southern california you might
stand a chance of finding Iveco parts. They didn't sell too many of the
things anywhere else in the country. Around here , parts are non
existent for the things.
Robert
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
So do any of these
Would anyone happen to have any pictures of the ducting to the rear seat
center console AC vent on a 126 ( or any others with a similar setup )
and how it is routed?
Thanks-Robert
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor:
It's best to just live out in the middle of nowhere, no neighbors to
worry about .
Unfortunately, even that doesn't work sometimes. recently, we were
annexed into city limits and Lately, there's been some subdivisions
going in a few miles down the road, and whenever the real estate agents
are
There used to be a cylinder head shop/MB and others boneyard in Little
Rock, on the outskirts, and when the city encroached on it, it went
by-by. I haven't got the straight story, but the word is that the guy
got zoned/legislated/taxed out of existence. Big industrial development
going in it's
Simple green does a pretty decent job. Let it soak for a while keep it
wet then hose it off.
Refrigerator coil cleaner does a bang up job ( nasty stuff, caustic soda )
---Robert
ANGELO GIAIMO wrote:
Parked my SDL in the garage for about a week while we went to Jacksonville.
When I
You can get AC oring assortments at just about any parts store. When you
put the new Oring on, DO NOT lubricate it with ester or PAG oil used
with r134a, they will dry the new oring out and it will leak before
long. get a can of old style R12 mineral oil and lubricate the new
orings with that
No more free oil. I just went through that whole thing, it says to
click on it to join the free penzoil thing, but once you do a message
come up saying they're done with that one.
---Robert
Sunil Hari wrote:
http://www.firstdriversclub.com/login.jsp
if you become a (free) member of
The inside diameter of the brake lines isn't very big , they don't hold
all that much fluid. The new stuff generally appears at the bleeders
pretty quick, especially if using a pressure bleeder and you've removed
all the old fluid from the reservoir before starting.
--Robert
LarryT wrote:
Yup, and the US shouldn't allow importing of plated items from countries
that don't have the same requirements. That would level the playing
field pretty quick.
I live on the outskirts of a town that has a major industrial furniture
plant where they do a lot of plating. For years their idea of
If you're having to pay to have it done, the ac repair is going to start
at around $200 min for a check and charge and quickly go up to $1400 +
if it's anything major. Something to consider. Dead AC needing a
compressor is one of the main reasons people dump cars in this area,
they can take a
Probably not often. I got a great night view of our house and you could
see the heat coming off the engine on my wife's car...problem is, she'd
been out of town all day and the car wasn't there, a little more
searching the area showed two giant churches that had been built down
the road about
Those things were actually pretty peppy and got great mileage, but were
poorly built and parts were impossible to find 15 years ago, I can't
imagine trying to keep one on the road now.
---Robert
Kevin Kraly wrote:
I'm tempted to look at a diesel Cherokee but a v6 GMC diesel, thats gotta
If you do get occasional snow, check out the Nokian WR So far as I know
it's still the only all season tire that is also rated as a snow tire,
but they wear as long as most other all season tires
http://www.nokiantires.com/en/tire_wr.aspx?season=summer
In some places, if you get tangled up
Just replace the schrader valves in the fittings and get new caps,
vacuum it down and recharge and you'll be back to looking for a jacket
in no time.
Those screw on fittings are the standard for retrofit. They generally
have some high strengh loctite type stuff on the threads so they can't
be
I've never been fond of michelins either. They last a long time, but
they're just plain squirilly. I've had about the same luck with
Yokohamas. I had a set of those on a car for over 80k miles, but they
scared me half to death when it rained or on a mountain road
---Robert
LWB250 wrote:
Actually, the red hair guy was ... or at leas an aspiring actor way
back. At one time they showed an old clip of him in one of the old
Charmin toilet paper commercials, he was the young shop clerk working in
Mr Whipple's store in the ' please don't squeeze the Charmin'
commercial...with a lot
That guy couldn't find his way out of a paper sack with a sawzall. The
few times I've seen that guys show, I've noticed the annoyance on the
faces of the people he was supposedly helping while they were quietly
covering for his screwing up.
-Robert
Jeff Zedic wrote:
I think the best
The waste sludge leftover after filtering WVO and watery, nasty wvo not
even fit for filtering is a wicked weed killer. Nothing grows there
after for a very long time.
For larger areas or near the house where I don't want to smell it,
there's some stuff I get at the local farm store called
Ah, Battleground WA, the town named for a battle that never really
happened. It's been downhill since . I used to live not far from there,
that one is about par for the course.
--Robert
Redghost wrote:
Yeah, but he is in Battle Ground. that is like West Virginia, so he
may not be
Yup. Initially they tested r134a with new r12 hoses and it leaked like a
sieve , hence the hose change recommendation, than after a bunch of
cheapie conversions were done, they discovered that r12 hoses saturated
with mineral oil didn't leak in most cases so they dropped the
recommendation.
When the shops ran over the system with a sniffer, did they bother to
run it up under the dash to see if the evaporator is leaking?
Does the compressor or somewhere in the line have a high pressure safety
blow off valve? Most systems do and if those things fail or get weak,
the first time you
If all the previously mentioned mechanical checks turn up nothing other
than blowby, the rings may just be getting a bit dirty. I've had amazing
luck with running a couple of treatments of Auto RX through old diesels.
It does wonders for cleaning up sticky rings and bringing compression
back
I even had to go through that at the VW dealer when I was trying to
find a new oil fill cap for one of my diesel Volvos ( they have VW
diesel engines ). The clown asks for model/ year and I try to tell him,
just pick any mid 80's water cooled engine, and the guy just sat there
and insisted
Any plastic tank radiator over 10 years old is on borrowed time. Chances
are it was just its time.
I'm rather fond of Nissens radiators. I've never had a problem with one
( although I've heard of a number of people having problems with them if
they ran Dexcool ) and on most applications they
If the car hasn't been run for a while, it may have leftover winter
blend of unleaded and diesel still in the tank, which would be going bad
if it's sat since winter and would smell like varnish., or it may have
had real old funky diesel in it and they stuck some gas in there to
give it a
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